Playing with Full Spectrum Photography
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ค. 2024
- In this Video we will be exploring Full Spectrum photography by doing side by side simultaneous video Indoors and Outdoors using a different Lighting, Lens Filters and several Infrared and Ultraviolet Light Sources as well as doing a short introduction "Tutorial" on what full spectrum is and how different filters and light sources affect it.
Don't Click Away! This Video is Indexed!
Because of the long length of this Video There's an Index right up front so you can jump to what interests you and a Second Index at the start of the Outdoor Section
00:00 - Introduction to the Camera's, Filters and what we will be doing
08:09 - A brief Primer on what full spectrum is and how our camera, filters and lighting work together.
17:10 - Indoor Full Spectrum using Incandescent, Fluorescent, LED and Candle lighting, 395nm / 365nm UV and 850nm / 940nm IR Illuminators and combining all of these with the following filters: UV Cut, UV / IR Cut, and three different IR Pass Filters (650, 720 and 950nm).
42:50 - Outdoor Full Spectrum using all of the same Filters with Auto White Balance, Custom (unfiltered) white balance, Black and White and finally some video with a UV / IR Cut filter and custom white balance to see how close we can get the camera back to just being a visible light camera.
All of the Full Spectrum video is done Picture in Picture using a FS Modified Nikon 1j5 and a non-modified Nikon 1j1 mounted on a test rig to take simultaneous video with both cameras limited to the same Auto ISO, and using the same Lenses.
The Intro and Full Spectrum Primer were filmed using a Panasonic Gx85.
I hope you enjoy the Video ~ It took a lot of time and effort to make, so if you find it of value Please Like and Subscribe! - กีฬา
This Video Is Raw Perfection.
Extremely, extremely informative. Thank you so much for all your testing and thoroughness.
Thank you for Watching!
Thank you so much for all the work that went into this video. You really did an excellent job illustrating the various spectrums of IR and UV light. All the best!
Black and white infrared is really cool
Thanks!
I've watched almost a dozen video on full spectrum and IR photography and I didn't come away with a solid understanding of how this kind of photography worked. I even watched a video from Adorama and it was not as well done as yours. THANK YOU SO MUCH! Underrated video.
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed and found value it it!
Best video I've seen on this subject . Thanks a lot for the work and info
Thank you for doing this. Your video and seeing the imaging results of Kolari's 'IR Chrome' filter, persuaded me to box up my old DSLR and send it off for a full spectrum conversion.
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for putting in the effort!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video, this was really helpful
Tons of value and the presentation really shows what each filters can do.
I really like the ir flash light with the ir cut filter combo, looks like you can use this in covert ops or reconnaissance in the military as night vision.
wow! this video is so informative and helped my understanding of full-specturm photography a lot.
Very cool to see in real time every thing each filter does. Very thorough good job. Nobody else has done this. Thank you. Going to convert my fuji xt10 to full spectrum.
Thanks! It's a lot of fun to see the world through a different set of eyes. So far out of all of the different filters the one that I use the most is the B&W F-Pro 486 UV/IR Cut, which allows me to use my camera for regular Photography so I can compare normal vs. full spectrum easily. In the case of my 1j5 the 40.5mm filters fit both the 10-30 and the 30-110 Nikon lenses (27-81 & 81-297 equivalent) which gives a lot of bang for the buck. Oh, and not that I would call it a Full Spectrum "Camera", I have some video's of the SiOnyx Aurora in the channel - it's a 720p Digital Night Vision monocular / Video Recorder that can also do 720p stills and has a special Low light sensor that when put in the full night vision mode removes the hot mirror from in front of the sensor making it a full spectrum device... Though the resolution is low the Sensor has Crazy low light performance that is much more sensitive than standard sensors to near IR to the point that it can see the near IR light coming off of things like hot coals or anything above around 1,000F which shows up as blue (before things start glowing the orange / red we see). At some point I want to do a video comparing the FS 1j5 to the SiOnix as just in playing with them side by side the Nilkon doesn't even come close to the SiOnyx in IR Sensitivity, too bad it's only 720p!
Phoenix Rising Thanks, yeah sounds interesting will check out those videos. Although i am more in it for photography not really night vision haha. Just holding off any expenses so will wait for conversion of my camera. Just been laid off same as many other people in this world right now due to this virus.
@@silencenhikes6692 I understand... Sorry to hear that. I work at a power plant, so no matter what someone has to work and if it gets really bad whoever is well might have to stay at the plant for an extended time, though I hope things don't come down to that.
Phoenix Rising yeah hopefully. But the world is in the same boat. Just gotta hold tight.
Great video very helpful!
Great video!!!
Thanks!
Thanks for the very thorough video on this topic! 🙏 I am working on a similar one, but focused on NVG options. Great job 👍👏
You may want to check out some of my video's on the SiOnyx Aurora, as although it's limited in resolution it's frequency response in the IR Range surpasses most Night Vision. I need to do another video on the SiOnyx demonstrating that against a Full Spectrum Camera and Traditional NV as I've found that it will pick up heat signatures between traditional Thermal and Night Vision where Hot Objects are radiating light outside of the visible spectrum at temperatures just below where we see the traditional Red visible glow.
Just got a sony nex 7 by mix up thats full specturm for 250 dollars. Awesome video helped me alot with knowing what lenses to buy and your fallout fan you got my sub!
such a great video, thanks for this
This was an amazing tutorial for full spectrum! I think your video title would be more suited by calling it that also, "Full spectrum photography tutorial", as the depth of explanation and imagery comparison really lend to what I was looking for if I were to convert my camera to full spectrum for astrophotography. Thanks for the hard work and time you put into this!
Thanks!
Most impressed with this video!
I dabbled with Infrared years ago using a compact digital camera that was known as being particularly sensitive to Infrared despite the built in sensor UV and IR filter. I used it with a R72 IR filter and despite the fact the camera had a 2 million pixel sensor and wasn't a sophisticated machine, I did get some pleasing results.
Leaving the camera as "standard" and using an IR filter means using tripod and sadly I've never liked tripods much - I always want the camera in my hands and so a full spectrum conversion really appeals to me as they can be used hand held even with IR filters (so I have read).
This video answered any questions I had, especially in the last couple of minutes in which a custom white balance was set for the camera with the UV & IR hot filter attached. It showed it is possible to get a camera very close to being "back to the way it was before the conversion" and that has sold it for me and helped to make my mind up. I am going to have my Sony A7RII converted...
Many thanks for producing this excellent, informative video.
Thanks! ... When I first tried I kindof did the same thing... used a Standard Nikon D50 with a Polyester IR Pass filter on a UV Filter... LOL It was a Painful Process!
btw. it's a nice coincidence, that you upload this video, after I used a 1000nm filter on a image intensifier to find a cat on a grass area. It has the same camo as your cat, so yours might also absorb IR.
thank you so much!!!
You're welcome!
Very helpful. It was great to be able to see all the options.
You're Welcome! You might be interested in another video in the channel that I did reviewing the SiOnyx Aurora Sport Digital Night vision... As it's actually a full spectrum camera when in it's night vision mode that excels in low light, with the key difference being that it's sensor is only 720p Resolution (1280x720), so not in the same league Optically but very cool otherwise. Interestingly one thing that I've seen with my Nikon that stands out even moreso with the SiOnyx is that extremely Hot Objects (close to 1,000 degrees F) actually glow blue in the Near IR range so apparently objects radiate light at decreasing wavelengths the hotter they get, even well before the familiar dark red / orange of a heating element or hot coals etc. If your interested here is a link to the SiOnyx review... th-cam.com/video/sFJUz4HHnTs/w-d-xo.html
@@PhoenixRising62 that’s neat. Thanks for the info. I’ll definitely check it out. I find the different looks so fascinating.
Gorgeous and easy to understand. Missing a try with the irChrome
This was helpful to me and I will not be doing any work in the UV spectrum. I also got to look at thanks to you IR in not just 720 nm. The outside part was the most useful for me and I thank you for your time and effort.
Thanks! Glad you found Benefit in the Video.
I tried one of those types of "950nm" filters, but was able to see a decent amount of red light through it. I also used a Kolari Vision IR/UV reducer on a full spectrum camera, but the white balance was far different than that of the stock camera before the modification.
late to the show, holy smokes that was interesting. thank you
Nicely done presentation! I sometimes switch WB to Fluorescent, incandescent or wb flash modes for color temperature effects.
Thanks! ... I often do similar, as well as in Photo's select different objects for the white balance preset in post processing and play with Color Balances etc. Lot's of creative options for sure!
Great video with so much detail, thank you ! It would awesome to see a similar video with different skin tones, if you ever feel compelled.
That's a good Idea! Though in all honesty it's unlikely I will do one as I would have to find a bunch of very Patient Volunteers.
@@PhoenixRising62 Haha, I totally understand. Really appreciate this video, either way. Thanks for making it!
interesting topic. UV filters won't really do much since the camera lens is made from glass, which isn't transparent to UV. So effectively the lens itself acts as a strong UV filter. Has a bigger effect when you put the filter in front of the illumination source, since less uv light from the illuminator will reach the objects which in turn results in less fluorescent light, which is more noticeable. When under UV illumination, there isn't much different between the full spectrum and normal camera, which indicates the illumination seen in the full spectrum cam is from the visible range. However you can see when you point the uv light directly at the lens some passes through.
Which is another reason why you should never look at the sun even with sunglasses on.
While I'm sure many of the coatings and the glass do block a good bit of the UV, likely dependent on how far down into the UV spectrum you go I do think that the glass is somewhat transparent for a couple of reasons... You can still buy UV filters for lenses, and though most people buy them more for cheap protection these days back when I shot film UV would affect your colors so some had to be getting through to the film. Another thing is that you can get Camera's converted to Only UV (vs. IR or Full Spectrum), which seems to be more oriented for Crime Scene photography so because of this I do think it is there, just at a relatively low sensitivity and only going a certain amount into the UV Spectrum.
I did look for UV pass filters, but if I recall I either couldn't find any or they (or the materials to make one) were prohibitively expensive as I did want to play with UV only photography. Doing a little additional research (googling CMOS Sensor UV Sensitivity) from what I'm seeing it looks like standard CMOS sensors can't see below anywhere below 300-400nm (depending on what source the chart is coming from... One for a Nikon FF DSLR was saying around 350nm, where charts from those making UV camera equipment claim 400nm) So basically the 365nm filtered illuminator would likely be near the extreme lower limit of the sensor with significantly decreased sensitivity.
Thanks for watching and for the Thought Provoking Comments!
Great job. I particularly liked the flashlight comparison indoors. I purchased a couple of cheap 850nm flashlights to try at some point. A FB friend has posted some very nice outdoor mushroom images in IR and used the flashlight to shine up under the mushrooms to give them an interesting glow. Your video was efficiently done too. I have a full spectrum Nikon Z6 and I am having a blast using helicoids and old lenses with it. On everything except for Z lenses, I am able to stick the IR filter between the helicoid and the Nikon Z adapter (rafcamera.com). It allows for a regular 49mm or 52mm screw in filter. Makes using all of these old 35mm lenses a snap.
Thanks! and I'm interested in the helicoids rig you're using, as I've never heard of that. I also have an FT1 adapter for my 1j5 so I can use newer full sized lenses, but currently I'm doing that without filters.
While on the subject of Full Spectrum, I have another video in the channel reviewing the SiOnyx Aurora Sport digital Night Vision that might interest you. While the Aurora isn't remarkable as a camera per-se, when in "Night" mode it does operate in full spectrum and it's sensor is of a new design that they are referring to as "Black Silicon" which as I currently understand it involves nano-texturing the silicon so it absorbs more light across a wider frequency, at any rate from my experience not only is it about the best digital night vision I've seen, but on a moonlit night the full spectrum looks absolutely amazing! ~ And the Aurora Sport retails for $399 USD, which just for it's night vision capability is a bargain not including it's being full spectrum, albeit only at 720p resolution.
I plan on doing a comparison between the Aurora and my 1j5 fairly soon shooting 720p video to see just how much more sensitive the Aurora really is (I'm currently waiting on a 50mm equivalent f1.8 lens for my 1j5 so that I can do as close to an apples to apples comparison between the two as possible). Thanks for watching and Subscribing!
The machine shop/web site I mentioned above has a Nikon 1 to M42 adapter for $25. That mates to the Nikon 1 camera but without any electronic connection, just manual everything. Then you screw a M42 threaded helicoid if the appropriate min/max focusing range to the front of that. The last step is to screw a lens onto the front of the helicoid. Which may or may not require another adapter to go from M42 threading on the front of the helicoid to the back of the lens. There are a variety of M42 threaded lens from back in 35mm film days. Pentax, many soviet lenses, Exakta can be easily mounted, and many Japanese cameras also use M42 to mount lenses to cameras. The focal plane distance on your Nikon 1 is 17mm, same distance on an M42 Pentax K mount is 45.56mm. The front adapter (nikon 1 to M42) + the min length of the helicoid + the lens to helicoid adapter added together needs to be less than 45.56mm in order to be able to focus to infinity with a Pentax K lens. You can find chinese helicoids on ebay that will do this. I have an assortment of lengths. The whole purpose for me of using a helicoid, is to go beyond the close up distance a specific lens can go. But also to all for a variety of interchangeable lenses with have a specific adapter for each brand lens (if they exist). However, you can also find adapters on ebay that perform just like your FT1 adapter, but for other lenses. There is one for the M42 to Nikon 1 for about $7. If you use it, everything is done in manual mode, but it is made so that a normal M42 mount lens will work in manual mode on your camera and will focus to infinity. I have gotten sucked into these old lenses as they are sometimes great optical quality and cheap.
@@KevinPinkerton Cool! That's something I might have to look into... I did pick up a C-mount adapter for my Nikon 1's in the past and a variety of lenses just playing around but never went to the level you have, and when I started playing with building night vision my lens solution was to use old Pentax film camera lenses since they were plentiful and cheap (I literally cut out front of old Pentax film cameras keeping the lens mount and locking mechanism intact just so I could interchange lenses for different purposes), and I agree Lots of good glass out there to play with if you don't mind tinkering and manually exposing your shots.
Thanks for the video, I was testing out some new astrophotography equipment during the day, and wondering why I didn't get many colors with a 742 pass with an asi462 cam, took the filter out let in all the visible spectrum too.
Not sure on the Colors, but when I looked up the ASI462 it looks like it is set to be more sensitive towards the IR spectrum so it may be that the Sensor and Camera Lens coatings are designed to limit some of the normal visible light spectrum (ie tuned for Astrological Photography)... But I'm definitely not an expert if Astrophotography. Also for shooting with full spectrum converted converted regular cameras for optimal results you want to run custom white balances and post process to bring out the colors and effect that you want your images to have, and to get the best results it's best to shoot in RAW format and then go down the post processing rabbit hole. In the case of the ASI even without any fancy software etc. if you take a picture of a white object like a piece of paper etc. then take your photos you should be able to use the white shot to come up with a custom white balance for the remainder of the photos (if the lighting hasn't changed) as well as increase the color saturation of the images to give them more "Pop" if you haven't tried that yet.
From my experience the best results are often obtained my just playing around with different settings on the front end and tinkering in your processing on the post side of things until you come up with settings that work for yoru specific camera and application.
Try the 950nm light vs. a bucket of water. When you consider that the eye is mostly water, you know why it's impossible to see for the human eye.
Thank you for all the visuals :) I'm shooting (mid latitude, therefore mostly red) auroras, i really wonder how that would change the images.
how safe is this UV illuminator to the human eyes?
Good Question!... I'm not a medical professional, but from what I have read Strong UV sources can be damaging to your eyes. I do know that a couple of the illuminators that I have have warnings about the dangers of UV light, and I've seen similar on electronics websites that sell UV LED's. Personally feel that you should avoid looking directly into them and be careful with direct UV being reflected back into your eyes (like from a metallic, glass, reflective surfaces etc) and the potential danger will vary both with the power of the illuminator and the type / frequency of UV being emitted, but when looking at objects being illuminated by UV I don't believe there is any real danger because what you are seeing is the wavelength radiated from the Object instead of direct UV.
A couple of other thoughts are (being a little older and growing up in the 1970's) Growing up there were a lot of folks who had "Blacklights" and Flourescent posters and spent a good bit of time around them and I've never seen one article linking any vision problems due to that (LOL aside from some of the more Temporary impairments caused by other activities generally associated with Black lights and Psychedelic posters), but I do remember that even those old fluorescent blacklights would cause irritation if you had them shining directly into your eyes after a while. Also I have used UV lights for Sterilization a little (like the ones put in air ducts that have a glass tube - very high intensity), and they can damage your vision very quickly without you being aware of it... They have warnings telling you flat out to not even turn them on when they are in your field of vision, and I absolutely follow those directions when using them.
So I guess the bottom from my perspective is that for the type of illuminators used in the video I feel that there are very negligible risks if used responsibly, but even then I wouldn't want to use them for hours a day.
One of the best video on the topic. Thanks!
Can you tell what exact models of IR flashlight did you use? (and if you could recommend it, or might be something better)
Thank You Very Much for the Compliment!
Here are two of the models that I have used and purchased several of. Different models come and go on Amazon (the Uniquefire in the link is currently unavailable), and both of these brands do well enough for the money, though the heads are fairly loose so the beam can shift if they are between either full flood or full spot. When looking to buy one just make sure that they have the 3 levels of brightness so you can adjust them (some do not), and for Digital Photography both 850 and 940 will work, but for Night Vision use 940's don't play too well with Gen 1 and Gen 2 stuff.
Also Both do emit some visible light so if that is a concern the 940's emits much less (barely visible to the naked eye @ 100 yards) than the 850's (Visible at over 300 yards if the beam is focused) though the 850 does put out a little more use-able light
Probably the best IR Illuminators I have seen are the ones made by Armasight, but they run close to $200 in most cases compared to around $50 for these.
Evolva T-38 (850 nm)
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U3UX73E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Uniquefire UF-1505 (940 nm)
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011IGU6U8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@PhoenixRising62 Thanks for detailed info. I interested in camcoder with native IR (Panasonic will release some new in March). Regarding flashlight that emit some visible light, you can put little IR filter (as on camera) to cut it, probably. I saw somewhere online some acrilic with IR, so might be usable as well and not expensive. Hope to experement soon as well. Before I had Sony with nightvision it was very interesting to look at invisible things :) What model of UV/IR cut filter did you use (probably I miss it in video)?
@@rendermanpro For the IR/UV Cut filter I am using a "B&W F-Pro 486 UV IR CUT MRC" filter, I know I mentioned it in one of my video's (likely one of the Night Vision ones) that you can use Lee Filters 87c Polyester filter material (not the 87) which is paper thin and can be easily cut to fit. I have been using that for a number of years and you can use it in several ways - You can make an IR Pass filter by taking a cheap UV filter, removing the retaining ring and cutting it to fit the glass then re-assemble it (it's a bit fragile, but works), You can also do the same with flashlights to make a cheap IR Illuminator (make sure to use it with an incandescent bulb! as White LED's don't put out any useable IR), and you can also use it to take an 850nm LED IR illuminator and reduce it's visible light output while retaining most of the IR (or you could just get a 940nm, but those don't work too well with Gen 1 and Gen 2 night vision).
Though not directly related I've recently been playing with a SiOnyx Aurora Sport, which is a color digital night vision device that when in night vision mode is Full Spectrum and really neat! ... It does record video and take photo's but only at 720p, / 1280x720 resolution, but it has a special sensor that is much more sensitive than traditional camera sensors in the IR range... I've done several video's on it and at some point I'm hoping to do one showing it compared to my Nikon 1j5 full spectrum to compare their sensitivity etc, even though they are not for the same purpose. I'd love to see SiOnyx make some High Resolution sensors / cameras using this Technology as it would add a whole new dimension to full spectrum photography.
Nice video tutorial. One might be able to notice that IR filters progressively loses focus, something to consider in adjusting focus during IR photography.
Could you Clarify?
The reason your UV filter never seems to make much of a difference is that the lens of the camera is blocking most of the UV.
UV photography requires special UV transparent lenses.
Sir very informative, I have removed ir cut filter in my cam, I want to shoot night exterior with colorful image, wich ir illuminator can I use, I mean which wich wavelength illuminator.
I like the video thanks.
What camera can see down to 250nm that you have on that chart please ?
While I imagine there is one, I don't know the answer to that. The chart was more for illustrative purposes. Thanks for Watching!
Man, that red sky @46:00 through the IR filter looks so cool! Did you do the full spectrum modification yourself? I have been looking at online options but they are kinda pricey, although I understand considering the cleanroom/expertise you'd need to do those conversions professionally.
Thanks! .. No I had my camera modified by "LifePixel". I thought about trying a DIY, and if I just wanted to mess around with an old camera would think about it, but to me it was worth having it professionally done considering the cost of the camera and wanting professional results.
Depending on the camera it can be harder. Like certain cameras have a sensor cleaner to disable otherwise it will not work, or some where the sensor need to be moved back a mm or half a mm. And also i thought just removing the filter in front of the sensor will work but after doing some research for my fuji camera, they said you have to put another clear filter or glass the same thickness to compensate otherwise your camera won’t focus right.
So I've read that IR conversions on MIRRORLESS cameras is a great way to go. My understanding is that after the conversion, you don't have the focus issue. Is this true? Also with the J5, does it still auto focus while shooting video? THANX
To answer your first question, using a mirrorless camera is definitely a much better option and you are correct, a mirroless eliminates the focus issues found in traditional DSLR's which require the Autofocus to be re-calibrated (more expensive) and also you would likely lose the ability to use an IR/UV cut filter to be able to also take regular photo's after the conversion as well.
As for the focusing while shooting video, Yes it still does function. After reading your post I tested it just to make sure both with and without a UV/IR cut filter to shoot some video in both full spectrum and normal visible range and both worked though my impression was that the video focusing might be just a tad bit slower in FS mode (this wasn't a formal test so it might have been due to variables in my aiming the camera etc.)
Also, If you're thinking about getting a IR or full Spectrum mod on a 1j5 (or Nikon in General) there is an issue under certain circumstances that you need to be aware of that I just recently found out about, and that is if you're shooting high ISO's and long exposures Nikon's (I'm not sure if it's all of them or just some) have a "fogging" issue. I discovered it while trying to do long exposures at night hoping to get FS photo's of the Neowise Comet. What I found was that my photo's has a haze coming from the left side of the image that looked like light leakage and I couldn't figure out why... In refreshing my memory on IR focusing for this post I came across a video on LifePixels website (which is who I had my camera mod done by and I'm very satisfied with the job that they did) that explained the issue... Apparently Nikon uses an IR led sensor to verify shutter accuracy that normally isn't an issue but when doing long IR exposures there is enough errant IR light to affect your images, which may or may not be an issue for you (for me my J5 has been modded for several years and I never had an issue until I decided to shoot Neowise, though I have to admit I haven't done a tremendous amount of IR/UV shooting with it).
BTW, Life Pixel has a IR/UV camera selection guide that walks you through deciding what might be right for you (very well done), as well as information / training videos that are very informative. (I'm not affiliated with or compensated by them, just giving them a shout-out as I've found them helpful and I'm happy with their work).
Phoenix Rising GREAT info, thx. I’m really looking forward to getting an IR camera. I’m assuming “full spectrum” conversion is the way to go.
@@staceykunch7261 You're welcome ~ I guess it depends on what you want, Life Pixel has quite a number of different mods, UV, Full Spectrum and multiple IR conversions with different characteristics. The reason I chose full spectrum even though it does require lens filters to do Just IR or UV (UV pass filters are hard to come by) is that you can also get IR+UV Cut filters and still take regular pictures (though the colors might be a bit off due to your separate filter having different cut off points that the one removed from the sensor) as well and I did not have a specific goal or function that I wanted to use the camera for.
Something else I was thinking about after I replied to your first post is that two other reasons I went with the Nikon one series (aside from I had and was not using the 1j5 much) were that I could use the FT-1 adapter and use later Nikon G mount lenses (the electronic focus ones) to be able to have very long zoom ranges (I keep a 55-200 VR with the J5 which has a 35mm equivalent of 148mm - 540mm and have a 300mm Zoom as well which gives 810mm equivalent), and when using the standard 10-30 and 30-110 Nikon one lenses they both use 40.5mm filters which are smaller and cheaper than larger filters as well.
I would like to get another camera modified, and at present If I had to do it again I would likely get a Panasonic Mirrorless converted, again to full spectrum ~ Likely a Gx85 (again because I have one, but use my G85 and G9 much more) but preferably a G85 as I've really taken a liking to Panasonic's Micro 4/3 system, which uses sensors that are approx. half of full frame or between 2/3-3/4 the Surface area of APS-C compared to the smaller 1" sensors in the Nikon 1 series) and don't have the High ISO / Slow Shutter haze issue, Plus with the Pansonic's I can shoot Full HD video all day long and have a very functional android app for shooting stills and video) without overheating which is another big plus. The downside is that Micro 4/3 lenses tend to be pricey and the filter sizes are larger and vary so the add on costs would be more.
So which is right? Some say the custom white balance should be done with green grass and some say with a grey or white card. And I have heard that custom white balance should be done once the chosen filter is on. Please and thanks fo your help.
Just my Opinion but I don't think it really matters much when it comes right down to it... The way I look at is that when we do a custom white balance in regular photography we are just giving calibration point to what should be white so we can accurately process our images in difficult or unusual lighting scenarios. When we shoot in full spectrum we are totally outside the box on the response curve of the sensor that unless we are trying to go to great lengths to recover some sense of a true color scene it really doesn't make much of a difference.
That being said to try to keep things closer to real I would shoot a gray or white card with the filter I was going to use on for a WB preset if doing video, or if your taking pictures especially if shooting raw just make sure one of your pictures of a scene has something white in it so you can set your WB off of that in processing. But really I would play around with each scene and see what gives the most aesthetically pleasing results.
Phoenix Rising thank you very much. So pretty much take a custom white balance of grass if you want the trees to be white.
@@silencenhikes6692 Yes, pretty much, just keep in mind that even though different foliage may be the same green in visible light in IR the Grass and a given type of Tree may be wonderfully different colors.
Maybe try them all and see what you like, it's all to taste
I see, the camo pants are genuine military grade. Civilian ones don't have IR camo and will show up pretty bright in IR.
A thought about the UV filter, they are most useful for long distance shots in sunlight. The atmospheric haze from UV light needs quite some space to build up to a noticeable effect.
The 950nm Filter outside is quite impressive. The woods effect shows nicely, the reflections on the water obscure the IR absorbent properties of the water though.
Actually the Camo Shorts are just from Walmart, nothing special otherwise, generally what causes things to light up in IR is if they are made from a Synthetic material like nylon, rayon etc or perhaps if the particular dye's are IR reflective (also why you could see the target behind the the shirt on the right on the indoor scene), As for the UV I was surprised that the filter didn't have more effect with the full spectrum camera, but then from most of the data I was able to find CMOS sensors don't go too far into the UV range and don't use that light as effectively as they do IR either, which might help to explain things.. I do have some filter material on the way that hopefully will work to take photo's primarily in the UV only range, but I'm not sure if the quality will be good enough for Photographic use (or even video). As for the IR filters So far I am favoring the 720nm filter the most as there is an abundance of IR out there between 720 and 950 making it easier to get photo's and video in some circumstances since the camera's sensor sensitivity starts falling off rather rapidly once you get up into the 950 range.
@@PhoenixRising62 Interesting, the camo pattern is visible though. Even on organic materials, show up as a single colour with civilian dye. But maybe the IR camo pants are not classified as weapons of war over there and don't need to be demilitarised before selling them to civilians. Over here, there was a big scandal when the company, who made the pants for the army, did produce 200 pants with IR camo for the civilian line by accident.
@@heyarno Wow... boy they really have all of you on lock down! Next they will be putting special dye in clothes to make sure everyone glows in night vision!
That's actually really scary to me.. But then there's a mindset in the US that the people should be on equal footing with the government which is a big part of our Constitution and the reason for our 2nd amendment since being under an oppressive government was the reason for the American Revolution in the first place. Unfortunately too many people over here have forgotten those lessons.
@@PhoenixRising62 Actually, most of the clothes I have seen, do.
Over here, we are not allowed to have a constitution, until there is a peace treaty. Sadly the politician in power, when Germany was reunified, was afraid of being held responsible for his corruption by the people, so he sabotaged the offer of the allied, to have a election for a constitution and making us a sovereign state again. And now we are in the EU hell, where democratic influence works like homeopathy to the top.
But I see your concerns as well. You hold legal immigrants to a high standard and make them take a oath to the constitution, while people who are born there can go nuts with the hate on freedom and the responsibility, that comes with it. and the lack of regulation makes your health system up to 500 times more expensive than other first world countries with comparable or better health system. The military is expensive as fuck. But we are catching up, we get much less for every military spending these days. At least 50% of your F35 can make it to the air. Here it's a matter if the pilots can gather enough hours, to keep their license. But hey, who needs a army, when Merkel let's everyone in anyway?
@@heyarno You are quite correct on multiple counts! Our Constitution is under constant attack here by the Socialist Left, and a lot of our infrastructure has been taken over and weakened for political and financial gains as well. You know I never thought a huge amount about the legal immigration process (aside from that it needs to be reformed and streamlined) but you are correct and that was not always the case... 50 years ago "Civics" was part of our basic education process where it educated the population about not only their rights, but their responsibilities as "Citizens", about the Constitution and three branches of government etc. All kinds of important lessons... Then the liberal left took over the education systems and replaced all that with things like "Social Studies" to where today a "Naturalized" Citizen has a better understanding of our Government and the Importance of things like the Constitution and it's Amendments than your average High School or College graduate and it is Shameful.
You are on Target with Health Care and Military Spending too... They have all been legislated into crap by Big Corporations Lobbying and buying politicians. The biggest Scam is Insurance and Law Suits... Law suits here are ridiculous driving risk up, then insurance steps in basically forcing everyone to pay "protection money" at every step of the way to where by the time health care gets to the consumer what was at one time relatively affordable is crazy expensive to where they too have to buy Insurance (aka "protection money") at ridiculous costs just to be able to afford it, and they have the people dumb-ed down to where they are thinking "Thank God I have Insurance" instead of realizing that all of this is due to ridiculous legal suits and insurance racketeering at every step of the game.. And the politicians have no intention of fixing it because most are in-bed with these companies, and the real truth is that what we called "Obamacare" really was just a way to drive private practitioners out of business to where all healthcare is under corporations... That and to mandate that everyone had to buy health insurance or be penalized / taxed if they didn't.
As for the hate on freedom the sad truth is that what the mass media portrays is very far from the truth, and the reality is that most of the hate and prejudice that exists is on the part of those pointing fingers at everyone else, almost the exact opposite of what the media shows... The reality is the Media in the US at this time is pretty much controlled entirely by the far left to where it's more propaganda and programming than what I would consider actual "News" and uses pretty much the same tactics as the propaganda machine that Hitler used before and during WW II, which has been a template for manipulation ever since it was created due to it's effectiveness.
The sad truth is that the kinds of things that are going on both here and in your neck of the woods all pretty much go back to the old saying "Those that do not learn from History are Destined to repeat it!" ... and far too many people are attempting to forget or erase history rather than learn from it.
Great review. Do you using a lens with no coatings. Because if you using a lens with coatings, it will blocks the full spectrum. Isn't?
I'm using just the Standard Nikon Lenses. While the coatings do impact the light coming in, to my my knowledge the Glass / Hot Mirror directly in front of the sensor in the camera body is what is used to block both IR and UV from the sensor (when I had my camera modified all I had to send in was the Camera Body and that same piece of glass was what was replaced.
@@PhoenixRising62 i buy lenses which has no coatings. First check them with UV light if they have a coating. If they have a coating they wouldn't pass the UV light. I have self a full spectrum camera.
Thanks a lot, full spectrum camera over killed filtered camera
A mirrorless DSLR?! How is that possible?
LOL ~ I'm taking it that you are referring to the R part of DSLR? ... Perhaps because DSL was already taken by the time they got rid of the R? .... Though I think the original use for the term Mirrorless DSLR was used to promote interest in Mirrorless Cameras so potential buyers would associate Mirrorless with DSLR's and take interest via association. Thanks for Noticing!
a mirrorless DSLR huh?
If it's mirrorless, it is not a DSLR.
mirrorless single lens reflex camera? hmmmmm
Mirrorless is mirrorless; there is no such thing as "mirrorless DSLR".
I was loving this video until the part where you shine the torches *directly* into the camera (viewers eyes) without warning for migraine/photosensitive seizure havers - multiple times. Uuuugh my head 🤕😢
the way you simply explain and compare everythaaanG is the Greatest; but 8:24 is the Greatest Greatest. word2momsB.