Hi, Frank from South Africa here. Awesome system. First of its kind ive seen. Fastest to work out. Upped my game for sure. Thanks a million, abd hope you reach yours
Hi Frank. I still cringe a little when people call this a system. I think of it as a good starting point for certain banks. There are too many variables for me to call it a system.
I'm glad I ran into you again I lost you for a while and I like the way you think and I like the way you explain stuff you know you're a good teacher and you know what the hell you're doing
Very cool! Instead of 3/4 of the distance from the pocket. you could go 1/4 the distance from the ball. One of the banks, you said 1/2 the distance when you meant 3/4 of the distance, because it was the "far" away magic line... so you missed because you measured 1/2 instead of 3/4. You can always estimate where your shot will cross the "magic line" and still use your method even though the ball isn't on the magic line. I will try it out... I usually play on Diamond, 7 ft. bar tables... they tend to bank short... but you are shooting firm speed which also banks short. Medium speed on a Diamond table is like firm speed on other tables. Follow also shortens the bank and draw widens it. It's important to be able to adjust when you need to play shape... but if a stop shot works, firm with no English is an option.
Boy I'm glad I came across this this is a great explanation and idea to use in those instances where the balls fall on those lines I've had a lot of problems with banking and this will solve a lot of them I wonder have you given any consideration to align in the middle of the table or when the object ball is not on one of the magic lines is there some adjustment that can be brought that might assist in making a bank on an object pole that sits in the middle of the table. I've tried to use your system when I'm not using ball in hand and it works pretty good regardless as long as you line up the spot on the rail and you're supposed to hit. Thanks again for this and I look forward to watching all of your videos
For the Z shot you can try aiming at the mirror of where you want it to go. Like is you split the table and reversed the image. Then subtract about 10 or 15% of that distance from cue ball to rail and the aim point. I think I read it in a book a longtime ago and sometimes use it. Usually only good to hit a object ball with no other options.
real good system, just a question however. the cue ball is always in the same line as the object ball so maybe a video on how you account for that angle. great representation though
Appears his system is designed for the "dead Bank." If the cue ball is not aligned straight with the object ball AND the cushion impact area then your going to have to apply side spin (english) on the cue ball to compensate. Not really a useful system in a real world game. Rarely will all the stars align perfectly (and you'll still have to execute the shot well). nevertheless, it is knowledge and thus good to have in your pool toolbox.
Still watching this video but I figured I'd try to add some insight as to why possibly the photon or whatever system you used (I'm unfamiliar with it) the first bank attempt didn't go in. Sometimes it will as you say go in. The specific spot or diamond on the rail is important and can slightly change based on the speed you are hitting the object ball. The reason for this is basically the same as when making a cut shot at medium speed. If the cue ball hits the object ball with low english the backspin tends to make less friction when you make contact with the object ball it hits it more fleshly when there is not as much forward rotation. When the object ball hits rail it sends it into forward rotation giving an opposite effect. So thats why many players like to use low english when banking along the long rail. So I know I have introduced a bit of technical information here and so I'll give an example. If you can find a diamond on the table where a natural bank tends to go at a medium speed such as the second diamond with the cue ball infront of the side pocket. Then if the bank goes with center ball then you may have to aim a bit before or after the diamond when using various degrees of bottom english based on the information above. The ideal bank imo is a stop shot to avoid the risk of a double kiss. Top english is better for longer range banks and the cross table. I'm gonna continue watching this and I'm always interested in trying new systems.
Very interesting. However I could never get myself to be mechanical like this when playing. I got with the line see & feel for banks and everything. I think you used the term internet pool player b4. Ha. Cheers
You dont always have ball in hand to put the cueball exactly in line. How good does this work if the cue ball is hitting the contact ball at an angle in order to hit the rail at the appropriate spot?
I guess if it was close then maybe a person could do an adjustment for the cut induced spin, but I don't think it would be any better than just banking it like a normal person.
That's what I used to do is figure out the cutting it in half cut it in half and cutting it in a third or a quarter for chicken nugget ball and I learned a lot about that but really it's all in the field you know what I mean like you said before Willie mosconi said hit the ball with some Authority and that's what I've always done
I’m a little confused. It’s 3/4 when the cue ball is shot from the left side, object in tight, but half when opposite? But pool tables are symmetrical, so I must just not be getting when one shoots 3/4 or when you choose 1/2. Sorry, I’m just confused.
hello, kentucky bankers .. it's mark from new mexico here .. we have friends that moved to sommerset, and we'd like to visit them sometime .. i mostly play league 8-ball on valley boxes but i dabble in almost all of the other games .. i even like three cushion .. i want to play some banks during our first trip to the bluegrass state .. are there any weekly or other banks tournaments in the bars and halls in kentucky? .. we have kids, so, i can't play pool late into the night .. thank you, all :):)
You might want to check with Kyle at Railyard Billiards in Louisville. If there's a bank pool tournament in the area besides Derby City Classic, it would be at Railyard.
I just realized that you said Somerset. That's quite a bit South of Louisville. Kyle might not know about any bank pool tournaments outside of his own place.
Diamond system works just fine with me don’t matter where the balls are I can see it without thinking about it. what you doing is the same as the diamond system you just look at different if it work for you go for it…..
Appears this system is designed for the "dead Bank." If the cue ball is not aligned straight with the object ball AND the cushion impact area then your going to have to apply side spin (english) on the cue ball to compensate. Not really a useful system in a real world game. Rarely will all the stars align perfectly (and you'll still have to execute the shot well). nevertheless, it is knowledge and thus good to have in your pool toolbox.
My main thinking is that it's just a cool thing I found. Others keep calling it a system but it's not really one because, as you point out, the balls very rarely lie on the proper line.
@@bv6457 You've given me an idea to try to turn it into an actual system. I will, however, have to mess around with it and see if it can be made viable.
Calling this a system is a huge exaggeration. I certainly never called it that. It’s just an oddity I found when I was learning to bank at firm speeds.
Great! So everytime the OB is on the line closest to you, you cut on half, when on a line furthest it's 3/4 or maybe I'd refer to it as a quarter distance to target pocket
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Hi, Frank from South Africa here. Awesome system. First of its kind ive seen. Fastest to work out. Upped my game for sure. Thanks a million, abd hope you reach yours
Hi Frank. I still cringe a little when people call this a system. I think of it as a good starting point for certain banks. There are too many variables for me to call it a system.
the reason for the difference is the object ball is either sliding or rolling when it hits the rail depending on the distance from it
Yep, that makes a huge difference for most bank angles.
That... and compressing the rail further, makes the rail push the ball away from it more directly (closes the rebound angle)
"Dave you handsome devil" LOL, you're a pretty witty guy Dave! Thanks for the videos. -Mike
I usually think I'm pretty funny. Others may disagree.
I'm glad I ran into you again I lost you for a while and I like the way you think and I like the way you explain stuff you know you're a good teacher and you know what the hell you're doing
I appreciate the positive feedback. Had a guy tell me I was full of baloney earlier, so it all even out in the end.
I use numerous systems, sometimes in tandem with each other. A lot of diamond systems . I think this will be very useful! Thanks!
You're welcome. These are pretty cool when the balls are lying correctly.
Another banking "nugget". thanks Dave
Very cool! Instead of 3/4 of the distance from the pocket. you could go 1/4 the distance from the ball. One of the banks, you said 1/2 the distance when you meant 3/4 of the distance, because it was the "far" away magic line... so you missed because you measured 1/2 instead of 3/4. You can always estimate where your shot will cross the "magic line" and still use your method even though the ball isn't on the magic line. I will try it out... I usually play on Diamond, 7 ft. bar tables... they tend to bank short... but you are shooting firm speed which also banks short. Medium speed on a Diamond table is like firm speed on other tables. Follow also shortens the bank and draw widens it. It's important to be able to adjust when you need to play shape... but if a stop shot works, firm with no English is an option.
My table is a 4.5x9 Diamond.
Boy I'm glad I came across this this is a great explanation and idea to use in those instances where the balls fall on those lines I've had a lot of problems with banking and this will solve a lot of them I wonder have you given any consideration to align in the middle of the table or when the object ball is not on one of the magic lines is there some adjustment that can be brought that might assist in making a bank on an object pole that sits in the middle of the table. I've tried to use your system when I'm not using ball in hand and it works pretty good regardless as long as you line up the spot on the rail and you're supposed to hit. Thanks again for this and I look forward to watching all of your videos
I tried pretty hard to find some other "magic" lines where the fractions would be as easy as 3/4 and 1/2. I had no luck.
Fantabulous as always...
Thanks. I remember getting overly excited when I discovered these magic lines. I may have danced a little.
For the Z shot you can try aiming at the mirror of where you want it to go. Like is you split the table and reversed the image. Then subtract about 10 or 15% of that distance from cue ball to rail and the aim point. I think I read it in a book a longtime ago and sometimes use it. Usually only good to hit a object ball with no other options.
Good stuff, ill try it, thx!🎱👍
real good system, just a question however. the cue ball is always in the same line as the object ball so maybe a video on how you account for that angle. great representation though
Appears his system is designed for the "dead Bank." If the cue ball is not aligned straight with the object ball AND the cushion impact area then your going to have to apply side spin (english) on the cue ball to compensate. Not really a useful system in a real world game. Rarely will all the stars align perfectly (and you'll still have to execute the shot well). nevertheless, it is knowledge and thus good to have in your pool toolbox.
Still watching this video but I figured I'd try to add some insight as to why possibly the photon or whatever system you used (I'm unfamiliar with it) the first bank attempt didn't go in. Sometimes it will as you say go in. The specific spot or diamond on the rail is important and can slightly change based on the speed you are hitting the object ball. The reason for this is basically the same as when making a cut shot at medium speed. If the cue ball hits the object ball with low english the backspin tends to make less friction when you make contact with the object ball it hits it more fleshly when there is not as much forward rotation. When the object ball hits rail it sends it into forward rotation giving an opposite effect. So thats why many players like to use low english when banking along the long rail. So I know I have introduced a bit of technical information here and so I'll give an example. If you can find a diamond on the table where a natural bank tends to go at a medium speed such as the second diamond with the cue ball infront of the side pocket. Then if the bank goes with center ball then you may have to aim a bit before or after the diamond when using various degrees of bottom english based on the information above. The ideal bank imo is a stop shot to avoid the risk of a double kiss. Top english is better for longer range banks and the cross table. I'm gonna continue watching this and I'm always interested in trying new systems.
This isn't really a system, just a cool thing I noticed when I was working on mapping out my banks.
Nice video. I've never seen this system. Glad I checked it out. Cool.
Glad you checked it out, too!
Does the OBall always ha e to be on one of those Magic Lines for the system to work?
For this method, yes it does.
Very interesting. However I could never get myself to be mechanical like this when playing. I got with the line see & feel for banks and everything. I think you used the term internet pool player b4. Ha. Cheers
You dont always have ball in hand to put the cueball exactly in line. How good does this work if the cue ball is hitting the contact ball at an angle in order to hit the rail at the appropriate spot?
I guess if it was close then maybe a person could do an adjustment for the cut induced spin, but I don't think it would be any better than just banking it like a normal person.
That's what I used to do is figure out the cutting it in half cut it in half and cutting it in a third or a quarter for chicken nugget ball and I learned a lot about that but really it's all in the field you know what I mean like you said before Willie mosconi said hit the ball with some Authority and that's what I've always done
What is a chicken nugget ball? That's a term I've never heard before.
I think this is kinda cool too.
Right. Maybe not common enough to be useful, but still cool.
I’m a little confused. It’s 3/4 when the cue ball is shot from the left side, object in tight, but half when opposite? But pool tables are symmetrical, so I must just not be getting when one shoots 3/4 or when you choose 1/2. Sorry, I’m just confused.
Rewatched. You explained it well, I just misunderstood. When the line is near, or far side. Got it.
@@shader26 Glad you got it. I was going to try to explain it better, but I often make things more confusing when I try to do that.
hello, kentucky bankers .. it's mark from new mexico here .. we have friends that moved to sommerset, and we'd like to visit them sometime .. i mostly play league 8-ball on valley boxes but i dabble in almost all of the other games .. i even like three cushion .. i want to play some banks during our first trip to the bluegrass state .. are there any weekly or other banks tournaments in the bars and halls in kentucky? .. we have kids, so, i can't play pool late into the night .. thank you, all :):)
You might want to check with Kyle at Railyard Billiards in Louisville. If there's a bank pool tournament in the area besides Derby City Classic, it would be at Railyard.
I just realized that you said Somerset. That's quite a bit South of Louisville. Kyle might not know about any bank pool tournaments outside of his own place.
I tried this and found that this is close to the 40% "rule" but not exactly on. Interesting discovery.... -Mike
Correct. These "magic" lines are based on another system that, for me, is more accurate, but harder figure out in the middle of competition.
No it is cool you got it in your bag you know what I mean so anyway it all adds up to learn and
Diamond system works just fine with me don’t matter where the balls are I can see it without thinking about it. what you doing is the same as the diamond system you just look at different if it work for you go for it…..
Just to be clear, I don't use this. I just think it's cool.
ball in hand tho?
For this, yes. Any sidespin makes it just a regular bank shot, and these "magic" lines aren't there anymore.
z shots divide the distant by 3
Appears this system is designed for the "dead Bank." If the cue ball is not aligned straight with the object ball AND the cushion impact area then your going to have to apply side spin (english) on the cue ball to compensate. Not really a useful system in a real world game. Rarely will all the stars align perfectly (and you'll still have to execute the shot well). nevertheless, it is knowledge and thus good to have in your pool toolbox.
My main thinking is that it's just a cool thing I found. Others keep calling it a system but it's not really one because, as you point out, the balls very rarely lie on the proper line.
@@davidsiltz Still good to know. Thanks for taking the time to put this together. Nice job!
@@bv6457 You've given me an idea to try to turn it into an actual system. I will, however, have to mess around with it and see if it can be made viable.
"I wanted to stay...I bought the house" 🤣
Where are you from where are you from I'm from Minneapolis Jimmy the kid pool hall
Southern Indiana. Across the river from Louisville Kentucky.
So, if the object ball is miraculously on that line and you have ball in hand, your system works. Simple!
Calling this a system is a huge exaggeration. I certainly never called it that. It’s just an oddity I found when I was learning to bank at firm speeds.
Great! So everytime the OB is on the line closest to you, you cut on half, when on a line furthest it's 3/4 or maybe I'd refer to it as a quarter distance to target pocket
Pretty much correct, except that it's got to be firm speed, and any sidespin invalidates it.