One thing that makes refiting a hose a tiny bit easier for people in-experienced in doing it, is to fit the 1st stage end, er, first! Without the weight / bulk of the 2nd stage on the end, it's easier to simply spin the hose between your fingers to get the male threads on the hose started in the female threads in the 1st stage. Once you have the 1st stage end done, then fit the second stage to the other end, which is easy becasuse this is a female socket on the hose, and so can be turned without turning the whole hose itself :-)
Mark! OMG, I can not tell you how much I have already learned from your videos!!! The lenght of them is also perfect, along with the information you give. It is all so relevant and on point. There has not been a single video yet, that wasn't super helpful and interesting! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
If you need a spanner/wrench to fit those thin surfaces (regulator fitting at the 15min mark) then check out bicycle “cone spanner’s”. Bicycle wheel cones are pretty much the same (two thin nuts locking together) so tools exist solely to fit them... and in around the same sizes. Usually just pressed steel, but you shouldn’t be levering too hard on them, that’s what the real spanner is for.
Love you videos. I remember on your simply scuba you said you can't do any underwater videos but since this is your private channel are you able to film some dives? Would love to see what the diving in the UK looks like.
Yeah, I can start filming in the water for my own channel, when all of this virus has blown over, but in the mean-time you can check out one of my buddy's videos from a few years back if you want to see some UK waters: th-cam.com/video/1KIxT0bCMnA/w-d-xo.html
I was always told to use an O2 safe grease on threads/o-rings in contact with your air supply, and to never use silicone grease because it will deteriorate faster when in contact with higher concentrations of O2. Thoughts on that?
If you're diving mixes richer than 40% then yes. Otherwise it's a cost:benefit choice. O2 safe grease is better, but doesn't come cheap and for the tiny amount you may need on a hose, it's not really worth it. You don't have access to any dynamic O-Rings that need greasing, only the static O-Rings to the 1st stage that don't particularly need greasing.
Do I need special o-rings or can you use any type from the local hardware store? Correct size of course.. Speaking of which, do o-rings for dive gear have any standard sizes? (I bought a kit of o-rings for another purpose and there's about a million of them in the box, so some would most likely fit)
Hi Mark, I am familiar with this type of work but was really surprised when I fitted my SPG and there was play in the HP hose connection to the SPG. I was told this is normal and have had no leaks with this setup. Maybe worth explaining the play in the hose connection with a swivel pin or if I've been advised incorrectly please let me know and I'll correct my configuration. Keep up the great videos, Daz
For Apeks regulators you will need the following tools: For removing port plugs: 5mm hexagonal Allen wrench (3/16" will have quite a bit of play and can damage the port plug, 7/32" will not fit) For removing HP and LPI connectors: 14mm wrench (9/16" can be used but will have a little play) For removing second stage non-swivel connectors: 9/16" wrench (15mm will have quite a bit of play and can damage the connector, 14mm will not fit) For removing second stage swivel connectors: 11/16" wrench (18mm will have quite a bit of play and can damage the connector, 17mm will not fit)
Yup, but only when a hose is in the mix. Connecting a transmitter directly to your 1st stage doesn't require a swivel pin, but if you fit it to a hose you'll need one.
@@rapha9125 Putting your transmitter on a short hose is good practice. A transmitter attached directly to a first stage can be mistaken for a valve knob and used to lift your cylinder out of the water. A hose will also give your transmitter some flexibility so it doesn't get damaged when you hit something.
Thanks for this video Mark. I was planning to change my setup to a long hose setup and wasn't sure if it is safe to do it on my own. After your video i am pretty convinced i can do it. I have the same 1st stage as you, and i can see you used the port at the bottom (?) for your primary second stage. Is it the same way? Cause it looks a bit different...
The Apeks DST either comes in a 4-port or 5-port configuration so be careful. The 5-port version has a large raised section while the 4-port is flat on both ends. 4-port: www.apeksdiving.com/worldwide/products/diving-regulators/product/dst.html It's not hard to change the configuration on your regulators and fit new hoses, you just need to be careful not to damage the threads by turning too hard.
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One thing that makes refiting a hose a tiny bit easier for people in-experienced in doing it, is to fit the 1st stage end, er, first! Without the weight / bulk of the 2nd stage on the end, it's easier to simply spin the hose between your fingers to get the male threads on the hose started in the female threads in the 1st stage. Once you have the 1st stage end done, then fit the second stage to the other end, which is easy becasuse this is a female socket on the hose, and so can be turned without turning the whole hose itself :-)
Mark! OMG, I can not tell you how much I have already learned from your videos!!! The lenght of them is also perfect, along with the information you give. It is all so relevant and on point. There has not been a single video yet, that wasn't super helpful and interesting! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
Aaaaaand back to morning scuba videos with my coffee. Thanks buddy. I was just looking for new channels and you popped up!
If you need a spanner/wrench to fit those thin surfaces (regulator fitting at the 15min mark) then check out bicycle “cone spanner’s”. Bicycle wheel cones are pretty much the same (two thin nuts locking together) so tools exist solely to fit them... and in around the same sizes. Usually just pressed steel, but you shouldn’t be levering too hard on them, that’s what the real spanner is for.
Great tip Paul! I could do with some skinny spanners
good info, cheers from Cozumel, Mexico
Love you videos. I remember on your simply scuba you said you can't do any underwater videos but since this is your private channel are you able to film some dives? Would love to see what the diving in the UK looks like.
Yeah, I can start filming in the water for my own channel, when all of this virus has blown over, but in the mean-time you can check out one of my buddy's videos from a few years back if you want to see some UK waters:
th-cam.com/video/1KIxT0bCMnA/w-d-xo.html
9:50 1% of regulators have the 1/2 inch connector, and 99.9% have the 3/8 inch connector...? Hmm... :D Great video!
Out of 100.9% of all regulators.
Dst and xtx50 best dive invention ever.
I was always told to use an O2 safe grease on threads/o-rings in contact with your air supply, and to never use silicone grease because it will deteriorate faster when in contact with higher concentrations of O2.
Thoughts on that?
If you're diving mixes richer than 40% then yes. Otherwise it's a cost:benefit choice.
O2 safe grease is better, but doesn't come cheap and for the tiny amount you may need on a hose, it's not really worth it. You don't have access to any dynamic O-Rings that need greasing, only the static O-Rings to the 1st stage that don't particularly need greasing.
Do I need special o-rings or can you use any type from the local hardware store? Correct size of course.. Speaking of which, do o-rings for dive gear have any standard sizes? (I bought a kit of o-rings for another purpose and there's about a million of them in the box, so some would most likely fit)
Hi Mark, I am familiar with this type of work but was really surprised when I fitted my SPG and there was play in the HP hose connection to the SPG. I was told this is normal and have had no leaks with this setup. Maybe worth explaining the play in the hose connection with a swivel pin or if I've been advised incorrectly please let me know and I'll correct my configuration.
Keep up the great videos, Daz
For Apeks regulators you will need the following tools:
For removing port plugs: 5mm hexagonal Allen wrench (3/16" will have quite a bit of play and can damage the port plug, 7/32" will not fit)
For removing HP and LPI connectors: 14mm wrench (9/16" can be used but will have a little play)
For removing second stage non-swivel connectors: 9/16" wrench (15mm will have quite a bit of play and can damage the connector, 14mm will not fit)
For removing second stage swivel connectors: 11/16" wrench (18mm will have quite a bit of play and can damage the connector, 17mm will not fit)
On the second stage, can you use a thin bicycle wrench to hold that small nut?
th-cam.com/video/VArMLF7TLMA/w-d-xo.html
Bahco 9029t is your new adjustable spanner friend, when nuts are slim. Costs a fortune, though.
And then you dont have to say this anymore 😉😊 th-cam.com/video/VArMLF7TLMA/w-d-xo.html
Best video so far look forward to your videos how about a save your dive kit video please
very good Video. Is the Swivel Pin also needed when using a Transmitter on HP? I connected my transmitter to my firststage(no hose).
Yup, but only when a hose is in the mix.
Connecting a transmitter directly to your 1st stage doesn't require a swivel pin, but if you fit it to a hose you'll need one.
@@SafeDiving thank you very much! thats good to know! i like your new channel. hope it grows fast
@@rapha9125 Putting your transmitter on a short hose is good practice. A transmitter attached directly to a first stage can be mistaken for a valve knob and used to lift your cylinder out of the water. A hose will also give your transmitter some flexibility so it doesn't get damaged when you hit something.
Thanks for this video Mark. I was planning to change my setup to a long hose setup and wasn't sure if it is safe to do it on my own. After your video i am pretty convinced i can do it. I have the same 1st stage as you, and i can see you used the port at the bottom (?) for your primary second stage. Is it the same way? Cause it looks a bit different...
The Apeks DST either comes in a 4-port or 5-port configuration so be careful. The 5-port version has a large raised section while the 4-port is flat on both ends.
4-port: www.apeksdiving.com/worldwide/products/diving-regulators/product/dst.html
It's not hard to change the configuration on your regulators and fit new hoses, you just need to be careful not to damage the threads by turning too hard.
Nice and simple, now my 8 year old can change a hose. What about silicon grease on the LP O-rings and port sides, not recomended?
They're static O-Rings so shouldn't need grease to create a seal. There's nothing wrong with greasing them but very few will grease those.
Thanks a lot... Great video
Never use an adjustable scanner on any dive fitting!