@will kinh As I understand it, if you add solder to the shunt you reduce the resistance of it. This means the voltage drop across the shunt at any given current will be less. The controller is designed to stop delivering more power when the voltage drop across the shunt reaches a certain level so by reducing the resistance the current will need to be higher to achieve the set voltage drop thereby giving you more power for your ebike. I don't know what the limits will be but if you go too far it will eventually fail.
Love the shunt bridge idea ! I’m having grief with a 1000W kit on my brothers bike presently , replaced the controller and still dead so I’ll be dismantling them to investigate soon. Fully agree with the throttle upgrade , I’ve done that for both bikes so I could remove my bulky power meter that I had cable tied to the handlebars :)
The controller is pulling 1500W nominal and 2000W peak. Divide 1500 x 52 = 28.8A so your bms will be fine. The battery will also be OK so long as it is able to handle 28A constant current.
Thanks Paul, another viewer said pretty much the same thing so I might go ahead and order a display if my DIY fix isn't so great. At the moment I'm working on moving the bafang mid drive kit to a new (to me) full suspension mountain bike. When that is complete I'll move this kit to my road bike and see what happens.
If you want it neat and are happy to put up with the poor quality controller and will not want to tinker/upgrade and you don't mind replacing the lot if the controller fails then get the integrated unit. Otherwise buy separate units.
Hey there are you getting vibrations with this amperage mod? Cuz i did it on mine and now when i hit 30+kph the motor start vibrating. The motor does have more power throughout the whole range tho.
I haven't noticed any issues but I'm not using this controller now as I had another with cruise control built in. When I was using it I could reach 30mph no problem.
Can you enable regenerative braking on these controllers from Voilamart ? I have read - if you connect X and DS with cable this feature will be enabled on this cheap controllers. Problem is - I cant find the contact X and DS on my Voilamart- Kit controller ?
just a thought about the PAS issue going full bore as soon as you start to pedal, if you add an LCD display to your build, the PAS is fully programmable to your liking. I've just received the upgraded waterproof kit, and just a fyi it's sold as a 48v kit but in the display settings it's actually capable of 72v
Hi Paul, I know this is an old video but I was wondering about what he said regarding "going 15 mph" then it would finally apply (full) power. The only way the controller would know it was going 15 mph is if knows the wheel diameter and uses the hall sensors in the motor. Since the cadence sensor could be in any gear it can't use that to sense speed. So, is he wrong about the 15 mph speed thing? If it is speed sensitive he could program the controller for a larger wheel size like 29" which would reduce the "speed" from 15 mph down to maybe 9 or 10. (which would still be stupid) You are saying the PAS is fully programmable through the LCD which makes much more sense. It should give assistance at any speed and apply torque based on current required to keep the motor at crank speed. (Whatever speed that is I would assume.) Anyway, I'm just curious and if you could give any information to help me understand how this is supposed to work, I would appreciate it.
Please help: Hi i recently bought a 48v 1500w voilamart conversion kit. And for some reason the bike doesnt go on a static position. I always get error 9 until i push the bike/ pedal forward a bit for the throttle to kick in. Is there a fix ? Or get new controller ? Thank you for the help !
@@alibro7512 yeah it is. I wanted an lcd display to control PAS so they sent a second controller but now it doesnt work like i mentioned. The old controller works but only with that throttle mentioned in the video. I personally dont like that throttle, doesnt give accurate readings. I guess using PAS with this kit of out of question ?
Im running a 52 volt battery to a 1000watt hub if i shunt the controller will it push the hub to far an melt the wires or will it just not make much diffrence. The controller that came with the wheel couldnt handle the power of the battery it kept cutting out so ive got a better controller and it works fine does like 34 35mph decent power, will the shunt make it alot more fun
@@alibro7512 ummm thats intresting i might as well shunt it then, ive had it running for about 6 months none stop i use it everyday an had no problems with it i ride of road as well in the wet all conditions i get 24 mile range tested with gps do you reckon ill get less miles out of it with the shunt
@@catalickconverta6823 I've heard of people putting 5kW into a 1500W motor with only a little extra cooling so 1500W into a 1kW motor will be fine. Yes a little less as you'll be drawing more power
i was thinking of soldering the shunt but im not sure how many amps the controller would draw from the battery and that is the problem i have heard of some controllers overheating doing this not sure about the Voilamart ones do you think it is worth just soldering the shunt for more power rather than buying another controller ?
Soldering the shunt worked for me but I can't promise it will work for everyone. Replacing the controller with a Sine wave type and the throttle is the way to go.
@@FATTY1990 The amp draw is dictated by the controller so if you buy a 1500W controller it will draw up to 2000W max. At least that is what I'm seeing on the LCD display. I suspect a 1000W controller would draw up to 1500W or so.
Thanks a lot for the information on the throttle wires. And more. I love my new mod on my shunt I did as it’s even more of a beast with two 58.8v in parallel and 1500w R and 1000w F.
I don't soldier but might be interested in this mod. Would you be able to soldier one up and sell it? If not do you recommend a better 1500w controller? I have the 1500w voilamart kit
Hi, I've also got the 1500w 48v rear hub voila kit, did you get a better ampage controller and if so what make was it and where did you purchase it from, I'm running my kit with the stock controller (35amp max) but with a 52v 20ah triangle battery I'm top speed at 33mph but want more torque, did you get a bigger controller is my question to you please and if so what make? Thanks
No, this controller can be used with 36V to 48/52V but will cut out when the battery voltage reaches a certain level. If you can't upgrade your battery then 24V controllers are available.
@@alibro7512 Thanks for replying and trying to help. Without knowing exactly what to search for I can not find it. I have found another one that is similar at Walmart but not sure if it's as good as the other one.
@@herbertwerner2287 if you search on eBay lots of Chinese sellers selling them. I'm assuming you mean the one with a key switch and Voltage meter as the other is rubbish. I prefer the version with half throttle as it is easier to hold.
@@alibro7512 Well I saw one with the digital voltage but i saw no key switch. And I think that key switch is more than just functional it looks cool too just being there.
@@herbertwerner2287 Here you go. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/E-Bike-Electric-Bicycle-Throttle-Grip-Scooter-Handlebar-LED-Digital-Meter-Tube/402316543436?hash=item5dabef45cc:g:zBcAAOSwKtdfAZak or half throttle www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Right-Hand-Half-Twist-Throttle-Handle-Electric-EBike-Scooter-V-Display-Lock-Key/193382135968?hash=item2d067938a0:g:uFcAAOSw6qxebMeo These are just the first I found, if you look there are cheaper options for the same thing.
I see this kit came with the small warhead 25a connecter that plugs into the batter now I was wondering can I change that to a XT60 60a connecter? without hurting anything or whatever
@@davidamazing1853 It came with ring connectors that I cut off and replaced with XT60. As far as I can tell most ebike controllers come with ring connectors.
No, I replaced the controller and haven't used it since. In my case the kit was cheaper than a wheel/motor so I wasn't concerned about it. I never got a display for it
I now have this kit and I was wondering if you could help me out with what battery I want/need I was looking at 48v 20ah but I herd if I put a 52v battery in it will give me more power/distance so my question is can I put a 52v battery on this kit without burning out the controller/motor?
I can't promise anything and I'm no expert but I believe these controllers should be OK with 14S which I presume you're talking about. There is some discussion whether 48V means 13S or 14S anyway so It should be OK th-cam.com/video/alHocJk7DHg/w-d-xo.html. Once I have a few other things sorted I plan to upgrade my battery to 14S myself. I believe the Caps in it are 63V so if you charge your battery fully it will be 14 * 4.2V = 58.8V so well under 63V limit of the Caps. In any case even if you blew the controller they are less than £30 to replace. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Bicycle-36V-48V-1500W-Motor-Brushless-Speed-Controller-E-bike/123865862406?epid=17020907950&hash=item1cd6fb1106:g:l28AAOSwIbFdR~MS
Iv got the 48v 1000w sw900 violamart kit. I put more solder and copper wire over the shunt. And i bought a 1500w voltage booster. Iv got it to 48v In put to the booster and 75v out to the controller and it works and does not hurt the controller. All it does once you go past 60v to controller is that it makes the compactors start to make a ringing noise. But it makes my bike go from 38mph to around 45mph!
@@Nissan370_z Thanks for your reply. That's an interesting idea to use a voltage booster but I would be concerned about how long it would last. I'm planning to add another series connection when I move this kit to my other bike.
Hi could you please tell me what size wheels are on your Apollo Vendetta bike. Are they measured to diameter of the wheel rim 22ins or including the tyres 26ins diameter. Many thanks
The tuning is extrem extrem I pull the throttle and 1sekound later I am at Max speed ( if a Balance to the front of the bike if not the font tire goes strait up)
@@alibro7512He checked the transistors, which can run until 100V and the condensators which can get a volatage until 63V and with 15S you are under the 63V. I also use an 15S Akku Pack and it works very good. Instett of 50-55km /h you can drive the whole time with 55-63km/h. You can also discharge your akkus so much you want, because the controler stops ever at 42V
Can you help me Please.. I have the 48v 1000w kit.. I am having an issue with the basic twist throttle display... The charger says "green" and the display says full charge. But there is a red battery showing on display.. I can't find any info on it.. Please Please help.. Any help from anyone? Please
@@katiekumcgil Thanks for watching and your message and suggestions. I did this a couple of years ago but I'm pretty sure I was using the correct connections for the PAS. The red black and white wires are hanging down disconnected in the video because I didn't like the PAS. I became aware a little later it could have been sorted with a display but decided to go without PAS. Since this was made I replaced the throttle again the controller, battery pack and even the bike so the only thing common to this video is the motor. Check out my other videos for more updates.
48V 8P 13S with each battery around 3400mAh so around 27Ah or 13kWh My pack was built from batteries that I thought were genuine when I bought them but turned out to be fakes so I'm not comfortable drawing any more than 5A per cell so 40A for the pack
If you wanted to switch between 205w and 1000/1500w, couldn't you just add a simple on/off switch? and what would that do..... ps I love the simplicity of your videos....keep it up ALI BRO!
Thanks for the kind words, most of the issues on this bike have been resolved in newer videos. BTW I have to keep it simple cause I'm not smart enough to make it complicated. 🙄
I'm no electronics expert but I believe the shunt has a very small voltage drop across it which is measured by the controller and when it reaches a specified level the controller is at max power. By adding solder the resistance is reduced therefore it takes more current to get the same voltage drop across it.
@@alibro7512Thanks bro.. I've got the 1000 watt voilamart motor and controller and it looks a little different to yours as far as the layout goes and the tracks are already beefy, they are wider and the soldering is fine. But about the shunt, you say there was 3 links and you bridged 2 of them? Mine only has 2 links so how would I do this?
@@nickn8812 If you bridge both shunts with solder you'll lower the total resistance a little. I'm not sure how much you'll notice the difference but it's worth a try. If you want to upgrade even more then 1500W controllers from eBay are around £30 and you're motor should be fine with it. If doing that it is easier to replace the throttle too.
@@alibro7512 Thanks again for reply...I wasn't sure so I thought bridge the right hand shunt first and while I was at it I added solder to the high current tracks as you did, I put it back on the bike and tested it and WOWW I was awesome. You've Definitely hit a winner with this mod. I'm running 14s lipo. Though before this mod, even by changing to Lipo it didn't make the improvement I was expecting, but with this mod it allows the power of the Lipo come to the fore. I might bridge the other shunt as well as see how that goes 👌🏽
@@ichwasdass If you have a 48V battery and 1500W controller the current will be around 30 amps on full power. This is if you are measuring the current from the battery. I don't know what it will be on one of the three phases
Been running 63v and shunt mod for nearly 2 years now. 5800miles so far. Just had to replace rim as the brake blocks wore thru the sides. Other than that bullet proof. GPS speedo 52.9mph. 56front cog, 10 rear.
pedal sensor bad news just do away with but just use common sence the motor helps you but sometimes you need to help it IE the steep hills= labour good vid sir also you can jag 60 65 v up its ass done it for 3 years and still running and im 220 lbs its still ok serious but none the more unless you up grade the caps as there 63v rated
Ha Ha Great video... Yes there is quite a bit of issues with cheap stuff inferior manufacturing on ebike components. 2 things i want to mention, first you could benefit with a 3D printer and make an awesome custom battery case . second, i want your bike, ha, ha, i like the the way of the suspension frame.
It works by recognising the sequence of pulses from the hall sensor which triggers the PAS at the preset speed, in my case it was full throttle. Any change in the sequence will stop it working. That's why it doesn't trigger PAS when you back pedal.
@@niius7663 the magnets are not aligned all the same so when you pedal forwards there is a particular sequence of pulses seen by the controller. If it doesn't see the exact sequence it won't work so removing magnets will stop it working at all.
That's good to know, I guess it depends on the person making it up in the factory which colours they choose. For something like this it's always best to check with a voltmeter anyway.
Sadly the controllers in these kits are pretty crap with limited features and limited compatibility, I recently got the 1000w Voilamart kit with the sw900 screen and even then it is utterly flawed, and this is why your kit always runs at full power under pas as you do not have the sw900 screen, the screen allows you to set the pas level from 1 to 5 and with out the sw900 it defaults to pas 5 ( max power ). However even with the sw900 the controller is still crap the reason for this is how pas is managed by the controller, normally and with every other controller PAS limits the power and pas 5 would be lets say 1500 max and pas 4 would be 1000 and 3 would be 700 and so on letting you limit the power in a traffic situation for example or power saving, however the Violmart controller does not work like every other pas system and instead of limiting the power it is at 100% regardless of pas level and all the pas level sets is the max speed like 5=unlimited / 4=25mph / 3=20mph etc and this makes pas unmanageable in a traffic situations and a accident waiting to happen in wet/icy conditions. For this reason I swapped out the 1000w controller for one I already had and pared it with a LCD3 and it is much more manageable.
Thanks for the update on this controller, you've 100% confirmed my suspicions for the poor quality of this controller. It was cheap for a reason. Like I said elsewhere when I bought this kit I was only looking for a motor so the controller was a bonus. I'll continue looking at the Arduino cruise and PAS control when I get back to it.
@@alibro7512 Yeah when I was looking at the kits I was really only after the wheel so was going to get the cheaper kit like you but then i seen the kit with the screen and well I had already been spoiled by my LCD3 screen so went with the more expensive kit with the screen simply because it claimed to have a road legal limiting option and i liked this idea, however upon setting it up and test riding it i found out that the road legal limiter does not work and no way to control the power and i almost came of the bike the first time i tried to pedal away as i was on gravel and rear wheel just spun up full speed, the controller is so bad it is not even compatible with my LCD3 screen, so frustrating
@@EQINOX187 This is a very old thread but makes interesting reading www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/making-a-torque-throttle-instead-of-a-speed-throttle-for-a-cheap-controller.34117/ I have a 500W Bafang mid drive kit which I really like but I'm convinced it applies full power on every setting then controls the max speed. On a 500W kit this is not such a problem but on a 1000W or 1500W kit like mine it becomes an issue when you want to ride slowly through traffic or in poor conditions.
Been running mine with the shunt mod and 63v for nearly a year. Hard hills. Deep mud.
45mph. Great fun and I have had no problems at all
@will kinh As I understand it, if you add solder to the shunt you reduce the resistance of it. This means the voltage drop across the shunt at any given current will be less. The controller is designed to stop delivering more power when the voltage drop across the shunt reaches a certain level so by reducing the resistance the current will need to be higher to achieve the set voltage drop thereby giving you more power for your ebike. I don't know what the limits will be but if you go too far it will eventually fail.
Love the shunt bridge idea ! I’m having grief with a 1000W kit on my brothers bike presently , replaced the controller and still dead so I’ll be dismantling them to investigate soon. Fully agree with the throttle upgrade , I’ve done that for both bikes so I could remove my bulky power meter that I had cable tied to the handlebars :)
Hahaha nice mod, I'm running about 60A from a 38A controller which was labeled "45a"
So do you guys think I would have any problems with the included controller if I run a 52v 20Ah battery with a 50 amp bms?
The controller is pulling 1500W nominal and 2000W peak. Divide 1500 x 52 = 28.8A so your bms will be fine. The battery will also be OK so long as it is able to handle 28A constant current.
Thanks Paul, another viewer said pretty much the same thing so I might go ahead and order a display if my DIY fix isn't so great.
At the moment I'm working on moving the bafang mid drive kit to a new (to me) full suspension mountain bike. When that is complete I'll move this kit to my road bike and see what happens.
Hi mate looking to update mine to 1500W but do I buy the kit with built-in controller in the wheel or separate controller
If you want it neat and are happy to put up with the poor quality controller and will not want to tinker/upgrade and you don't mind replacing the lot if the controller fails then get the integrated unit.
Otherwise buy separate units.
@@alibro7512 thanks you just made my mind up will buy separate
Hey there are you getting vibrations with this amperage mod?
Cuz i did it on mine and now when i hit 30+kph the motor start vibrating. The motor does have more power throughout the whole range tho.
I haven't noticed any issues but I'm not using this controller now as I had another with cruise control built in. When I was using it I could reach 30mph no problem.
@@alibro7512
Thanks for the amswer mate, ich i gonna try to remove a bit less solder and fine tune it that way so that i stop getting vibrations.
Can you enable regenerative braking on these controllers from Voilamart ? I have read - if you connect X and DS with cable this feature will be enabled on this cheap controllers.
Problem is - I cant find the contact X and DS on my Voilamart- Kit controller ?
Sorry I don't know.
nik maier do you still don't know it?
The x and Ds are in slightly different places but means the same on mine
Just connected then and the rehén braking is strong
just a thought about the PAS issue going full bore as soon as you start to pedal, if you add an LCD display to your build, the PAS is fully programmable to your liking. I've just received the upgraded waterproof kit, and just a fyi it's sold as a 48v kit but in the display settings it's actually capable of 72v
Hi Paul, I know this is an old video but I was wondering about what he said regarding "going 15 mph" then it would finally apply (full) power. The only way the controller would know it was going 15 mph is if knows the wheel diameter and uses the hall sensors in the motor. Since the cadence sensor could be in any gear it can't use that to sense speed. So, is he wrong about the 15 mph speed thing? If it is speed sensitive he could program the controller for a larger wheel size like 29" which would reduce the "speed" from 15 mph down to maybe 9 or 10. (which would still be stupid)
You are saying the PAS is fully programmable through the LCD which makes much more sense. It should give assistance at any speed and apply torque based on current required to keep the motor at crank speed. (Whatever speed that is I would assume.)
Anyway, I'm just curious and if you could give any information to help me understand how this is supposed to work, I would appreciate it.
My voilamart pedal sensor goes full on as well. Don’t need it anyway in my rolling terrain.
Run a on off switch on the handle bar and two blue wires to it so you can have 1500w or 250-watt can you can use the pedal assist sensor
Please help: Hi i recently bought a 48v 1500w voilamart conversion kit. And for some reason the bike doesnt go on a static position. I always get error 9 until i push the bike/ pedal forward a bit for the throttle to kick in. Is there a fix ? Or get new controller ? Thank you for the help !
Is it new?
It sounds like the controller doesn't see the hall sensors properly. Try it with hall sensor plug disconnected to see what happens
@@alibro7512 yeah it is. I wanted an lcd display to control PAS so they sent a second controller but now it doesnt work like i mentioned. The old controller works but only with that throttle mentioned in the video. I personally dont like that throttle, doesnt give accurate readings. I guess using PAS with this kit of out of question ?
@@ME-il4mr Check the hall sensor connector (big square white one with 5 or 6 leads). The issue is most likely in that area.
Im running a 52 volt battery to a 1000watt hub if i shunt the controller will it push the hub to far an melt the wires or will it just not make much diffrence. The controller that came with the wheel couldnt handle the power of the battery it kept cutting out so ive got a better controller and it works fine does like 34 35mph decent power, will the shunt make it alot more fun
It won't make that big a difference. You should notice it but not by much.
@@alibro7512 im not going to bother i could up grade my wheel to a 1500 watt hub and that would be more power then
@@catalickconverta6823 A 1500W controller is already giving you 1500W.
Changing the motor will probably make no difference.
@@alibro7512 ummm thats intresting i might as well shunt it then, ive had it running for about 6 months none stop i use it everyday an had no problems with it i ride of road as well in the wet all conditions i get 24 mile range tested with gps do you reckon ill get less miles out of it with the shunt
@@catalickconverta6823 I've heard of people putting 5kW into a 1500W motor with only a little extra cooling so 1500W into a 1kW motor will be fine.
Yes a little less as you'll be drawing more power
i was thinking of soldering the shunt but im not sure how many amps the controller would draw from the battery and that is the problem i have heard of some controllers overheating doing this not sure about the Voilamart ones do you think it is worth just soldering the shunt for more power rather than buying another controller ?
Soldering the shunt worked for me but I can't promise it will work for everyone.
Replacing the controller with a Sine wave type and the throttle is the way to go.
i might actually look at that and it looks like you get the lcd aswell so hopefully you can control the amp draw on the lcd if needed
@@FATTY1990 The amp draw is dictated by the controller so if you buy a 1500W controller it will draw up to 2000W max. At least that is what I'm seeing on the LCD display. I suspect a 1000W controller would draw up to 1500W or so.
Thanks a lot for the information on the throttle wires. And more. I love my new mod on my shunt I did as it’s even more of a beast with two 58.8v in parallel and 1500w R and 1000w F.
Glad it helped
thank you ALI, Ive used this vid as my reference afew times now,,,, good stuff
Thanks, glad it helped
I don't soldier but might be interested in this mod. Would you be able to soldier one up and sell it? If not do you recommend a better 1500w controller? I have the 1500w voilamart kit
Hi, I've also got the 1500w 48v rear hub voila kit, did you get a better ampage controller and if so what make was it and where did you purchase it from, I'm running my kit with the stock controller (35amp max) but with a 52v 20ah triangle battery I'm top speed at 33mph but want more torque, did you get a bigger controller is my question to you please and if so what make? Thanks
Thank you. Nice work.
Regarding the power pack, can we use 24v instead of 48v and use the same controller?
No, this controller can be used with 36V to 48/52V but will cut out when the battery voltage reaches a certain level. If you can't upgrade your battery then 24V controllers are available.
@@alibro7512 Thank you.
Check the strength of the controller capacitor
@@Louis-lu5wh Thanks
hi, I need the operating instructions, I can't find them
what for?
That is a great throttle your showing. Anyone know where it can be bought ?
Ebay or Aliexpress.
@@alibro7512 Thanks for replying and trying to help. Without knowing exactly what to search for I can not find it. I have found another one that is similar at Walmart but not sure if it's as good as the other one.
@@herbertwerner2287 if you search on eBay lots of Chinese sellers selling them. I'm assuming you mean the one with a key switch and Voltage meter as the other is rubbish.
I prefer the version with half throttle as it is easier to hold.
@@alibro7512 Well I saw one with the digital voltage but i saw no key switch. And I think that key switch is more than just functional it looks cool too just being there.
@@herbertwerner2287 Here you go. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/E-Bike-Electric-Bicycle-Throttle-Grip-Scooter-Handlebar-LED-Digital-Meter-Tube/402316543436?hash=item5dabef45cc:g:zBcAAOSwKtdfAZak or half throttle www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Right-Hand-Half-Twist-Throttle-Handle-Electric-EBike-Scooter-V-Display-Lock-Key/193382135968?hash=item2d067938a0:g:uFcAAOSw6qxebMeo These are just the first I found, if you look there are cheaper options for the same thing.
I see this kit came with the small warhead 25a connecter that plugs into the batter now I was wondering can I change that to a XT60 60a connecter? without hurting anything or whatever
I'm sorry, I'm not familiar with "Warhead" connectors but if you have a powerful enough soldering iron it's a simple job to change to XT60 or XT90
Do you have a picture of the connectors that came with the kit l?
What’s a powerful enough soldering iron?
Is that what kind of connectors you have XT60 or the XT90?
@@davidamazing1853 It came with ring connectors that I cut off and replaced with XT60. As far as I can tell most ebike controllers come with ring connectors.
Hi mate just ordered the 1500w kit with separate controller did you get round to try the lcd display on that controller
No, I replaced the controller and haven't used it since.
In my case the kit was cheaper than a wheel/motor so I wasn't concerned about it.
I never got a display for it
You've the same gear shifter as me on my big ebike. Cheap as chips, but I really like them.
I had to change the shifter to fit the ebike brakes.
I now have this kit and I was wondering if you could help me out with what battery I want/need I was looking at 48v 20ah but I herd if I put a 52v battery in it will give me more power/distance so my question is can I put a 52v battery on this kit without burning out the controller/motor?
I can't promise anything and I'm no expert but I believe these controllers should be OK with 14S which I presume you're talking about. There is some discussion whether 48V means 13S or 14S anyway so It should be OK th-cam.com/video/alHocJk7DHg/w-d-xo.html. Once I have a few other things sorted I plan to upgrade my battery to 14S myself. I believe the Caps in it are 63V so if you charge your battery fully it will be 14 * 4.2V = 58.8V so well under 63V limit of the Caps.
In any case even if you blew the controller they are less than £30 to replace. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Bicycle-36V-48V-1500W-Motor-Brushless-Speed-Controller-E-bike/123865862406?epid=17020907950&hash=item1cd6fb1106:g:l28AAOSwIbFdR~MS
Iv got the 48v 1000w sw900 violamart kit. I put more solder and copper wire over the shunt. And i bought a 1500w voltage booster. Iv got it to 48v In put to the booster and 75v out to the controller and it works and does not hurt the controller. All it does once you go past 60v to controller is that it makes the compactors start to make a ringing noise. But it makes my bike go from 38mph to around 45mph!
@@Nissan370_z Thanks for your reply. That's an interesting idea to use a voltage booster but I would be concerned about how long it would last. I'm planning to add another series connection when I move this kit to my other bike.
So what’s the update on the setup is it still working?
Hi could you please tell me what size wheels are on your Apollo Vendetta bike. Are they measured to diameter of the wheel rim 22ins or including the tyres 26ins diameter. Many thanks
They're 26" wheels. At least that's what is on the tyres.
@@alibro7512 Do they do a 22" version .Thanks very much
@@jobow6656 I don't know if they still sell ebike wheels.
Best check ebay, Amazon and Aliexpress.
I think they do! Have you still got your Apollo Vendetta bike, as I am looking for one@@alibro7512
@@jobow6656 I do but I wouldn't recommend it. The brakes and suspension are rubbish and the gears aren't much better.
you want the cadence sensor right against the ring. 0.5mm clearance
The cadence sensor worked perfectly, the issue I had was caused by not getting the display with the kit so I couldn't control the settings.
The tuning is extrem extrem I pull the throttle and 1sekound later I am at Max speed ( if a Balance to the front of the bike if not the font tire goes strait up)
Do you have the same kit as this?
Ali Bro yes I have the same one but I juse a 15s battery
@@ichwasdass 15S would be over 60V. Did you check the electrolytic capacitors in the controller?
@@alibro7512He checked the transistors, which can run until 100V and the condensators which can get a volatage until 63V and with 15S you are under the 63V. I also use an 15S Akku Pack and it works very good. Instett of 50-55km /h you can drive the whole time with 55-63km/h. You can also discharge your akkus so much you want, because the controler stops ever at 42V
Ali Bro yes of course I Checkt them say can handle 63v and that's fine und my mosfats can handle 100v
Can you help me Please.. I have the 48v 1000w kit.. I am having an issue with the basic twist throttle display... The charger says "green" and the display says full charge. But there is a red battery showing on display.. I can't find any info on it.. Please Please help.. Any help from anyone? Please
Sorry buddy I never had a display with mine.
Is it going?
the pas sensor needs 3 wires,5volt pos,ground,and the signal wire ,your puting the signal straight to ground so it goes flat out
pas usually has red,black,and white for signal
i can find the pinout pcb connections for you if you need,let me know
i can also show you how to reprogram controller and add small lcd screenfor bout 10 bucks on ebay
@@katiekumcgil Thanks for watching and your message and suggestions.
I did this a couple of years ago but I'm pretty sure I was using the correct connections for the PAS. The red black and white wires are hanging down disconnected in the video because I didn't like the PAS. I became aware a little later it could have been sorted with a display but decided to go without PAS.
Since this was made I replaced the throttle again the controller, battery pack and even the bike so the only thing common to this video is the motor.
Check out my other videos for more updates.
What size battery are you using?
48V 8P 13S with each battery around 3400mAh so around 27Ah or 13kWh
My pack was built from batteries that I thought were genuine when I bought them but turned out to be fakes so I'm not comfortable drawing any more than 5A per cell so 40A for the pack
If you wanted to switch between 205w and 1000/1500w, couldn't you just add a simple on/off switch? and what would that do..... ps I love the simplicity of your videos....keep it up ALI BRO!
PS where can I get cheap duct tape....lol
@@pxxbxx9840 Pound shops. 🤣
Thanks for the kind words, most of the issues on this bike have been resolved in newer videos.
BTW I have to keep it simple cause I'm not smart enough to make it complicated. 🙄
Great video... One question though how does the shunt bridge give it more power?
I'm no electronics expert but I believe the shunt has a very small voltage drop across it which is measured by the controller and when it reaches a specified level the controller is at max power. By adding solder the resistance is reduced therefore it takes more current to get the same voltage drop across it.
@@alibro7512 ahh ok cool thanks for the prompt reply 👍
@@alibro7512Thanks bro.. I've got the 1000 watt voilamart motor and controller and it looks a little different to yours as far as the layout goes and the tracks are already beefy, they are wider and the soldering is fine.
But about the shunt, you say there was 3 links and you bridged 2 of them? Mine only has 2 links so how would I do this?
@@nickn8812 If you bridge both shunts with solder you'll lower the total resistance a little. I'm not sure how much you'll notice the difference but it's worth a try.
If you want to upgrade even more then 1500W controllers from eBay are around £30 and you're motor should be fine with it. If doing that it is easier to replace the throttle too.
@@alibro7512 Thanks again for reply...I wasn't sure so I thought bridge the right hand shunt first and while I was at it I added solder to the high current tracks as you did, I put it back on the bike and tested it and WOWW I was awesome. You've Definitely hit a winner with this mod. I'm running 14s lipo. Though before this mod, even by changing to Lipo it didn't make the improvement I was expecting, but with this mod it allows the power of the Lipo come to the fore.
I might bridge the other shunt as well as see how that
goes 👌🏽
I also have this voilamart kit but it doesn't reach more than 7 amps on max load but the max speed is 43 miles per hour
How are you measuring the current? Are you riding the bike at the time? 7 amps sounds very low.
Ali Bro I measured it riding the bike at the Same time with my multimeter and I can't ander stand why the amps are so low
@@ichwasdass If you have a 48V battery and 1500W controller the current will be around 30 amps on full power. This is if you are measuring the current from the battery. I don't know what it will be on one of the three phases
Ali Bro I measured on the battery wire I have a 48v 1500w voilamart Controller but I have a 15s battery
Could you link the controller
Here you go. ebay.us/K3mLE1
Thanks for the tips! I'll have to give it a try!
My 48v battery charges upto 55v
That's normal or may be a tiny bit high for a 13S pack which is standard for a 48V system. My current bike is 14S so charges up to 58.8V
So it didn't blow up your controller
No, it worked fine for months afterwards until I replaced it with a Sine Wave controller.
@@alibro7512 do you have a link for this since wave controller?
@@reyweygant9402 Here you go. Lots of links in the description of this video.
good alternatour controller 1500w 48v 45a alternatour at nyodimiom input max amper 1500w
Been running 63v and shunt mod for nearly 2 years now. 5800miles so far. Just had to replace rim as the brake blocks wore thru the sides.
Other than that bullet proof. GPS speedo 52.9mph. 56front cog, 10 rear.
Great update thanks
pedal sensor bad news just do away with but just use common sence the motor helps you but sometimes you need to help it IE the steep hills= labour good vid sir also you can jag 60 65 v up its ass done it for 3 years and still running and im 220 lbs its still ok serious but none the more unless you up grade the caps as there 63v rated
Very helpful thank u
Ha Ha Great video... Yes there is quite a bit of issues with cheap stuff inferior manufacturing on ebike components. 2 things i want to mention, first you could benefit with a 3D printer and make an awesome custom battery case . second, i want your bike, ha, ha, i like the the way of the suspension frame.
LOL, Check my more recent video.
Can someone tell me why a motor would make a grinding sound when power is applied
@@richardignacio8709 because she's fhcked🤣
Remove half the magnets from the pedal assist sensor,it should work fine or play around with the number of magnets till u get the desired results.
It works by recognising the sequence of pulses from the hall sensor which triggers the PAS at the preset speed, in my case it was full throttle. Any change in the sequence will stop it working. That's why it doesn't trigger PAS when you back pedal.
@@alibro7512 yeah,by reducing the magnets ,you will reduce the number of pulses
@@niius7663 the magnets are not aligned all the same so when you pedal forwards there is a particular sequence of pulses seen by the controller. If it doesn't see the exact sequence it won't work so removing magnets will stop it working at all.
I wired up one there today, in my case it was yellow to yellow, brown to yellow didn't work, it varies on these cheap Chinese controllers.
That's good to know, I guess it depends on the person making it up in the factory which colours they choose.
For something like this it's always best to check with a voltmeter anyway.
Sadly the controllers in these kits are pretty crap with limited features and limited compatibility, I recently got the 1000w Voilamart kit with the sw900 screen and even then it is utterly flawed, and this is why your kit always runs at full power under pas as you do not have the sw900 screen, the screen allows you to set the pas level from 1 to 5 and with out the sw900 it defaults to pas 5 ( max power ). However even with the sw900 the controller is still crap the reason for this is how pas is managed by the controller, normally and with every other controller PAS limits the power and pas 5 would be lets say 1500 max and pas 4 would be 1000 and 3 would be 700 and so on letting you limit the power in a traffic situation for example or power saving, however the Violmart controller does not work like every other pas system and instead of limiting the power it is at 100% regardless of pas level and all the pas level sets is the max speed like 5=unlimited / 4=25mph / 3=20mph etc and this makes pas unmanageable in a traffic situations and a accident waiting to happen in wet/icy conditions. For this reason I swapped out the 1000w controller for one I already had and pared it with a LCD3 and it is much more manageable.
Thanks for the update on this controller, you've 100% confirmed my suspicions for the poor quality of this controller.
It was cheap for a reason.
Like I said elsewhere when I bought this kit I was only looking for a motor so the controller was a bonus.
I'll continue looking at the Arduino cruise and PAS control when I get back to it.
@@alibro7512 Yeah when I was looking at the kits I was really only after the wheel so was going to get the cheaper kit like you but then i seen the kit with the screen and well I had already been spoiled by my LCD3 screen so went with the more expensive kit with the screen simply because it claimed to have a road legal limiting option and i liked this idea, however upon setting it up and test riding it i found out that the road legal limiter does not work and no way to control the power and i almost came of the bike the first time i tried to pedal away as i was on gravel and rear wheel just spun up full speed, the controller is so bad it is not even compatible with my LCD3 screen, so frustrating
@@EQINOX187 This is a very old thread but makes interesting reading
www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/making-a-torque-throttle-instead-of-a-speed-throttle-for-a-cheap-controller.34117/
I have a 500W Bafang mid drive kit which I really like but I'm convinced it applies full power on every setting then controls the max speed. On a 500W kit this is not such a problem but on a 1000W or 1500W kit like mine it becomes an issue when you want to ride slowly through traffic or in poor conditions.
push throttle more stable sir not a twist
I'm not sure why but your other comments are being lost by TH-cam. I can see you sent them but can't reply.
@@alibro7512 you have replied to all that was important regards sir
Cruise control
now that is a butcher job if i have ever saw one...
Thanks for the kind words.
Sorry that looks cheesy
What do you mean by cheesey?
It's just an old one.