Finally a thinking man's video..CAD, good camera work, explanations (so sick of guys filming stuff with their flip phones in the wind with no editing or intelligence) Building a solar pool heater for ABP and looking for ideas. Thanks.
Regarding cans vs downspouts.....Seems to me the downspouts would retain the heat much longer than cans, thus making it a tie in my opinion especially looking at the HOURS time spent messing with cans. Also no mention was made on whether the cans and downspouts were painted black for the test.
The data on cans and downspouts being off, wire mess being the best if you keep researching. Most important he at least started the project. Also in first video said first design. Looking for more video to see what he will do. Thanks for taking time to share design and video.
You missed the obvious solution. I used a plastic and hard foam drink holder to hold the cans and then took a drill press with a hole saw the size of the bottom depression on the can to cut out both ends. I liked the flow of the cans with both ends cut out and the unit still raises air temps somewhere between forty and fifty degrees with no fan required as convection currents actually blow out the hot air effectively.
The problem with aluminum cans is that they cool dawn as quickly as they get hot, so with them there is no heat acumulation. So I decided to built a model in which ceramic elements are wrap with the aluminum wall of the cans. In this way the solar colector will continue to give hot air after the sun goes dawn and also during these periods of time when the clouds hide the sun.
I understand your suggestion however you're only going to collect so much solar energy. It doesn't matter if you get it all over five hours or over 12 it's still the same amount of btu's of heat. I can run mine for five or six hours and it will warm my home and shut off my thermostat for all that time. And it has the advantage of heating up in a few minutes of direct sunshine instead of waiting for a heat sink to warm up enough to allow heat to flow out. If you have good south facing windows clay tiles set on the floor will gather heat all day and reradiate slowly into the night.
At 3:50 it describes higher temp, but disregards heat which is more desirable and a different measurement. Do downspouts give more heat, but less temperature? ( More heat and less temp is better for heating the house and is also more efficient.) Great video!
The best heat exchangers, I assume, are made of thin, highly thermal conductive material. A soda can definitely meets those requirements. But when possible, wouldn't no heat exchanger at all be even better? Why is a heat ex changer necessary? Would not ideal placement of intake and out take openings with some baffles work better? Perhaps doing away with the heat exchanger and increasing the surface area inside the box with layers of screen painted black would be more efficient.
You really need a radiator to collect the heat and heat the air up more than just the sun shining on an empty collector box. The screens may work well but I don't have any experience with them. However my can heater raises indoor air temp by forty to fifty degrees that flows through it and I get from five to six hours of that heat on a sunny day. I made mine around five or six years ago and have never even added a fan as it convection flows quite a bit of air.
Acrylic is NOT resistant to sunlight as UV will quickly destroy it. You can expect "plexiglass" to be opaque within a year or two. How has it fared so far?
@MAD GRUMPYMAN OK I don't have access to that.. Is this from a specialized supplier? I would love to get some. I'm in Qc. You are talking about that material that resembles coroplast?
The rain spout design will absorb MUCH more heat if you put resistance in the them. In my case I use crumpled screen material. I then noticed a significant {~28°F} increase in temperature relative to open rain spouts.
Do you have any dimensions?? could you possibly send me the cad file? currently making a solar air heater. using your videos as a base, i believe your craftsmanship exceeds every other
XxXsupertrampXxX it looked to me on the thumbnail a can opener that is a no sharp edges one. Or a safety can opener. And he’s using it on the can lid side. The other side requires a different process.
I believe you would actually be better off NOT removing the tops of the cans. If you leave them on, it creates a baffle that slows down the air movement and increases the heat absorption.
Solid state graphite power cell bank that charges a organic carbon power cell bank that heats a glow plugs in a bowl of gallium with a heat sensor that switches on a hydraulic pump or electromagnetic pump to circulate super heated gallium through copper heat exchanges one with a fan to draw air over coil to heat the air and another in a water heater to heat water. With all the pipes with gallium designed at an angle so all the gallium will drain back into the bowl with the glow plugs were the cycle starts all over again . Insulsted copper pipes would be a very good idea even thermal electric generators could be added to the system if more electrical generation were needed. Crazy idea.
but glass reduces sun radiation going through it -typical window glass pane causes drop by 10%. -best solution may differ between climates and purpose of the system
@@Brian-gx7yx Well, light is absorbed by the glass (and whatever other substance it goes through, including air). Different glass types absorb different amount of the energy carried by the light. Typical window glass absorbs ten per cent of the energy. Double window will absorb 20%. Now, when the light is inside the panel and meets the black surface, its energy changes form from light to heat. Some of this heat may escape from the panel, but how big will this loss be, depends on the construction of the panel and the difference between the outer and inner temperatures. So, right! it may be better to have double pane. And right, the heat loss will be bigger in very cold periods. But each case may be different. So, sometimes one pane will suffice, sometimes not. One idea may be to have an option for different weathers. When it is cold, place additional pane (close one more wing).
@@Brian-gx7yx if you have ten 10%-loss panes you loose a lot but most probably not 100%. it is easier to calculate how much goes through: 1st pane: 90% of initial light 2nd pane: 90% of what is coming onto its surface (i.e. 90% of the initial light) -> on the other side of the second pane you get 90%x90%=81 percent of the outside light 3rd: 81%x90%= 72,9 ... 10th: ...= 34,9 =circa 35% of the outer light That means, you loose 65% of light when it goes through 10 subsequent panes
![30 ชั่วโมงคนเดียว บนรถไฟชั้น 3 โซเวียต [Around The World Ep. 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/MlE9boAVqDA/mqdefault.jpg)
Finally a thinking man's video..CAD, good camera work, explanations (so sick of guys filming stuff with their flip phones in the wind with no editing or intelligence)
Building a solar pool heater for ABP and looking for ideas. Thanks.
Wouldnt it be better to spioke the holes in the bottom before cutting the top off???
Regarding cans vs downspouts.....Seems to me the downspouts would retain the heat much longer than cans, thus making it a tie in my opinion especially looking at the HOURS time spent messing with cans. Also no mention was made on whether the cans and downspouts were painted black for the test.
The data on cans and downspouts being off, wire mess being the best if you keep researching. Most important he at least started the project. Also in first video said first design. Looking for more video to see what he will do. Thanks for taking time to share design and video.
punch holes before removing top. Can is less fragile in the intact state
You missed the obvious solution. I used a plastic and hard foam drink holder to hold the cans and then took a drill press with a hole saw the size of the bottom depression on the can to cut out both ends. I liked the flow of the cans with both ends cut out and the unit still raises air temps somewhere between forty and fifty degrees with no fan required as convection currents actually blow out the hot air effectively.
one of the best tutorials...thank you
Thanks for the feedback. My final video in the series, video 7, will be released tomorrow.
Cheers
I need someone to build things with. I love this video also. Great idea with puncturing the holes in a series.
But wouldn't a drill work?
The problem with aluminum cans is that they cool dawn as quickly as they get hot, so with them there is no heat acumulation. So I decided to built a model in which ceramic elements are wrap with the aluminum wall of the cans. In this way the solar colector will continue to give hot air after the sun goes dawn and also during these periods of time when the clouds hide the sun.
I understand your suggestion however you're only going to collect so much solar energy. It doesn't matter if you get it all over five hours or over 12 it's still the same amount of btu's of heat. I can run mine for five or six hours and it will warm my home and shut off my thermostat for all that time. And it has the advantage of heating up in a few minutes of direct sunshine instead of waiting for a heat sink to warm up enough to allow heat to flow out. If you have good south facing windows clay tiles set on the floor will gather heat all day and reradiate slowly into the night.
You can cut off both ends of a drink can with a hand cranked can opener. Fast and easy.
I like your approach
Got lucky . Had two unused glass storm doors laying around collecting dust.
What about putting insulation inside of the pop cans? Would it help retain the heat more
At 3:50 it describes higher temp, but disregards heat which is more desirable and a different measurement. Do downspouts give more heat, but less temperature? ( More heat and less temp is better for heating the house and is also more efficient.)
Great video!
The best heat exchangers, I assume, are made of thin, highly thermal conductive material. A soda can definitely meets those requirements. But when possible, wouldn't no heat exchanger at all be even better? Why is a heat ex changer necessary? Would not ideal placement of intake and out take openings with some baffles work better? Perhaps doing away with the heat exchanger and increasing the surface area inside the box with layers of screen painted black would be more efficient.
You really need a radiator to collect the heat and heat the air up more than just the sun shining on an empty collector box. The screens may work well but I don't have any experience with them. However my can heater raises indoor air temp by forty to fifty degrees that flows through it and I get from five to six hours of that heat on a sunny day. I made mine around five or six years ago and have never even added a fan as it convection flows quite a bit of air.
You should paint it dark to absorb more heat I think
Acrylic is NOT resistant to sunlight as UV will quickly destroy it. You can expect "plexiglass" to be opaque within a year or two. How has it fared so far?
Polycarbonate is better for outdoor use and brutally expensive
@MAD GRUMPYMAN OK I don't have access to that.. Is this from a specialized supplier? I would love to get some. I'm in Qc. You are talking about that material that resembles coroplast?
The rain spout design will absorb MUCH more heat if you put resistance in the them. In my case I use crumpled screen material. I then noticed a significant {~28°F} increase in temperature relative to open rain spouts.
I love this idea. This would be a great follow-up approach for me to try. Thanks.
Crumpled aluminum screen?
Have you ever tried using a mirror instead of clear glass or plexy glass?
Do you have any dimensions?? could you possibly send me the cad file? currently making a solar air heater. using your videos as a base, i believe your craftsmanship exceeds every other
I like your thinking.
Or might a mirror reflect the heat back outward?
Lol will this not have huge pressure drop effecting whole core flow of the fluid
also what kind of can cutter is that ?
XxXsupertrampXxX it looked to me on the thumbnail a can opener that is a no sharp edges one. Or a safety can opener. And he’s using it on the can lid side. The other side requires a different process.
@@blairbushproject That’s what I thought. I was hoping someone had a brand that I can look up. I’m sure some work better than others.
I thought to use abs pipe which is black to absorb the suns heat
I believe you would actually be better off NOT removing the tops of the cans. If you leave them on, it creates a baffle that slows down the air movement and increases the heat absorption.
or even a magnifying type glass?
Solid state graphite power cell bank that charges a organic carbon power cell bank that heats a glow plugs in a bowl of gallium with a heat sensor that switches on a hydraulic pump or electromagnetic pump to circulate super heated gallium through copper heat exchanges one with a fan to draw air over coil to heat the air and another in a water heater to heat water. With all the pipes with gallium designed at an angle so all the gallium will drain back into the bowl with the glow plugs were the cycle starts all over again . Insulsted copper pipes would be a very good idea even thermal electric generators could be added to the system if more electrical generation were needed. Crazy idea.
Can you details a bit please? Thanks
in Germany we have a pawn of 25ct per can, so that would be verry expensive xD
You do not need cans for this any black surface may work as well as this - there are examples to find on the web
Old shower doors?
C S just make sure it is clear and not have a frosted design on it to block sunlight ...
Find free sliding patio doors. You can peel the glass from the metal that holds the 2 panes together.
so simple buy solar heater made in china. so awesome. and cheap. problem fix
I made it myself thanks to InpliX website
put tesla valve
I really think double pane glass would lose far less heat
but glass reduces sun radiation going through it -typical window glass pane causes drop by 10%. -best solution may differ between climates and purpose of the system
@@romanguziak3762 Why would glass drop 10 %
double pane insulated glass would save more than 10% in extreme cold
@@romanguziak3762 If I have 10 panes I lost 100%?
@@Brian-gx7yx
Well, light is absorbed by the glass (and whatever other substance it goes through, including air). Different glass types absorb different amount of the energy carried by the light. Typical window glass absorbs ten per cent of the energy. Double window will absorb 20%.
Now, when the light is inside the panel and meets the black surface, its energy changes form from light to heat. Some of this heat may escape from the panel, but how big will this loss be, depends on the construction of the panel and the difference between the outer and inner temperatures.
So, right! it may be better to have double pane. And right, the heat loss will be bigger in very cold periods.
But each case may be different. So, sometimes one pane will suffice, sometimes not.
One idea may be to have an option for different weathers. When it is cold, place additional pane (close one more wing).
@@Brian-gx7yx if you have ten 10%-loss panes you loose a lot but most probably not 100%. it is easier to calculate how much goes through:
1st pane: 90% of initial light
2nd pane: 90% of what is coming onto its surface (i.e. 90% of the initial light) -> on the other side of the second pane you get 90%x90%=81 percent of the outside light
3rd: 81%x90%= 72,9
...
10th: ...= 34,9 =circa 35% of the outer light
That means, you loose 65% of light when it goes through 10 subsequent panes
I made it too. Want to know how ? just go to inplix webpage.