Hey all, thanks for watching!! These electronics take a crazy amount of time to put together and I am grateful for your viewership. Let me know if you have any questions in the comments.
If your goal is to burn up the power supplies by restricting the airflow to the fans you might also tape off the fan openings because a minimal amount of air might leak pass the 1/8 inch gap between the wall and the one closest to it. Looks cool, but the compactness has turned it into a thermal nightmare. The air should enter one side and exit on the opposite side for good cross flow.
I am glad you like the ferrules. Next suggestion- plastic cable raceways to keep the cables neatly organized, instead of the spider web. Clipping the cables together with the zip ties does the job but doesn’t give the controller that industrial quality look.
Thanks. Great suggestion. I will find a supplier and add them to my inventory. I have loom that is pretty cool looking. It does take a bit of time to put that together. I can add that as an upsell.
I know when I use to nest parts for a cnc plasma our system always new the stock material size and configuration. If we started with a full sheet and only used some portion the nesting software captured that new shape and gave it a unique ID/name so then we could call up that and nest our parts in all those odd places no re positioning needed. Not sure if anyone already spoke on this but I am sure you know this by now. Good video, Thanks.
Great information you are sharing! One detail I would like comment on is the cooling fan direction. The "pressurizing" idea does not produce great airflow for cooling. It would be much better with the fan blowing "out". This will create a low pressure in the cabinet which produces laminar air flow. By placing intake holes at the opposite end of the cabinet from the fan, all incoming air crosses the cabinet providing maximum cooling to components. (make intake holes at strategic points between components) When using pressure, the air is only looking for the easiest way out, not necessarily moving near components. Also, you can still "filter" the incoming air.
Thanks. Very helpfull information. I didn't realize that blowing air into the cabinet was less effective than sucking air out of the cabinet for cooling. The retrofits that I work on typically have the air blowing into the cabinet.
I really enjoyed your video, and I feel that the patient explanatory manner that you have helped me to learn quite a few 'new tricks'. Keep up the good work! And your cat reminds me of my young Kitty who also likes to sit in front of my work ( including a welding, which is very dangerous but now this is a 😺 and they have supernatural powers).
Excellent video love how you did an overview of all the main components, Im going to be making my own CNC machine soon but I want my Nema23 motors to connect to gx16 4 pin aviation connectors to install them on a Arduino board just because I hear its easier than Linux CNC
@@PatrickHoodDaniel You're in luck. I'm a firmware guy, who is a linuxcnc enjoyer. I'm in the process of writing my own firmware for this card, so that it will work on linux. Technically it should work as-is, it's just a human-interface-device (HID) class. linux enumerates it just fine. I did some wireshark capture to see what it sends, it's straight-forward for the most part. One could write a linux driver that works with existing firmware
Ok some pretty obvious criticisms Delete parts/processes. No need for that many power supplies. Power supply has a fan for a reason. 4mm gap u left is not nearly enough Generally a better practice to solder rather than crimp. But the biggest one is: why wood and plastic? Why not buy an off-the-shelf metal electric box and screw into the chassy? That's better in every perspective: no fire risk, EMI shielding, less labor, very comparable cost, even looks better aesthetically (although that hardly matters).
@@rosswoolley2854he does ground them. But I do agree, an industrial control panel would be a good choice for this project. Especially with so many parts wired
Eash power supply powers each motor/driver pair, and closed loop setups typically come in that format. I could have used a huge transformer, but that would have added unnecessary weight. The relay is used to decouple the signal connection between the controller and the VFD. I could have just connected the two grounds together from the controller and the VFD, but I have had issues with doing this in the past.
@@PatrickHoodDaniel many thanks. I have had trouble integrating/connecting a pulse laser directly from a cnc controller to switch on and off with a g code command. I believe a relay might help as a middle man but wasn’t sure of the circuitry and the specific relay to adopt. Any thoughts?
@@pratikshukla6075 If you're going to be pulsing the laser at a high frequency, like more than a few times per second, I would not use a relay. If you can't connect the laser trigger directly to an output from the controller, then you should use a device that is intended to switch at a high frequency, like a solid state relay, a mosfet, or a transistor. But, if you are using the laser in a typical laser type scenario, I would highly recommend using a laser DSP, like the Ruida or similar controller.
Sir, I am from India, You are one of those who inspired me and gave me the confidence to think about building a CNC router..!!! I have some doubts. Can You help or do a video on this??? I use the Same RNR Motion card. 1)Can I use Adhesive Aluminum Tape to wrap the Motor Cables and Signal Cables and earth one end to the Chassie to prevent any EMI-related issues..!? Simply wrapping the cables with a conductive material like aluminum and grounding one end of that wrap to the machine body would discharge any potential voltage spikes that may affect?! If that is effective, Grounding to the Chassie or the electronic/digital /DC ground on the controller board? Which is necessary?
Yes, you can do that. Look at videos from www.youtube.com/@baxedm9806 and you will see he is doing a very similar thing. The EDM machine puts out a much higher EMI than a router, so this technique is a way to ground EMI.
Control cables should generally be routed separately, motor cables produce electrical noise so have to be routed separately. Similarly keep the USB cable away from the motor cables. In an industrial setup even the ground would not be shared
There is very little torque using the selected NEMA 34 motor, so I was way within spec. I only choose closed loop when the torque required for the application is somewhat close to the motor torque. In this case, these are the largest motors you can find for NEMA 34 and you need to step up to NEMA 42 for more torque and the customer's machine is set for NEAM 34.
You have a power supply for each axis? Why does closed loop require a lot more power. Are you driving stepper motors or servos? Looks very over my head complicated . That control center your wiring up must weigh a ton no?
Considering the type of electronics, why is there no mcb, contactor, led indicator, voltage display, emergency on the mains input, mains power distribution? Also why would you use a wooden box nd not sheet metal?
Thank you for a great video. Please excuse my lack of understanding,but where do the the encoder’s get connected to? Also do they provide feedback to mach3? Thanks!
The encoders go back to the driver. Mach3 doesn't take the encoder feedback as that would be more processing than is necessary. The driver knows the commanded pulses and will make every attempt to achieve the commanded position for the motor. If every attempt the driver makes fails, the driver will output an alarm for one of the controller inputs so the machine can stop. If the driver cannot achieve the desired position, there will most likely be a physical binding or interference with the travel of that axis.
Nice video showing your abilities and great touches on the box! One question I have is, you use two motors on the X axis, is that because you build router based machines on the wall? I am new to this, and will be using to control a Sherline mill machine so you threw me off by using triple power supplies, double motors, relays for different things, and a mist/flood pump that I understand would be for metal (but you seem to work on wood and plastics only), and so on. I bought mine used with no warranties so I have only one power supply S-240-24 (that’s providing 27.6V at the moment), three drivers HY-DIV268N-5A, and one breakout box(?) NVCMV2.1 125 kHz to control up to 6 motors, and 3 nema23 motors that are 2A each. I’ll be using my laptop with Mach3 to test it but plan to replace it with a desktop in the near future. If you can give me a few tips, I’ll be very grateful as I’m lost in this! Your video was very good but since it goes full fast forward it leaves individuals like me with a bunch of questions 😢! I was a computer tech for over 30 years but never got into the Breadboards and deep electronics, even though I have a good understanding of components and maintenance on them like the soldering, replacements and such. Thank you!
Builds like these are for customers and not for my machines. This customer used two motors to move his gantry. This is the typical setup for most CNC routers of a large size. My machines typically only use one motor with a very long shaft extending so two motors are not needed and squaring is resolved mechanically. Most closed loop electronics use a power supply for each axis. It is how it is typically sold, but I also like using separate power supplies to get a bit of extra room for current. I have a lot of videos that step you through the process very slowly and in a detailed way. I would suggest taking a look at those videos. A good starting point would be the videos on this page: buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board
WOW! The fastest reply in the whole TH-cam universe!!!! I’m still puzzled by the closed loop (watched only one video on it) and it’s benefits but for now I’ll have to stick to my setup as money is a great barrier on my evil world domination plans 😂! I’ll watch the other ones but before then…. SUBSCRIBING!!!! I appreciate you taking your precious time to discuss particle physics with a toddler, but keep in mind that I sincerely am impressed with such care for your viewers! Hard to find it in here anymore! If I can be of any help, let me know! Edson from the sunshine state!
I take everything to earth ground. There are many products out there with wood, plastic and other nonconductive enclosures. Many of these items don't actually include a ground wire since the nonconductive enclosure is not a shock hazard. I still use ground in this scenario since there is a lot of EMI and this noise can be taken to ground. The individual components also have metal housings so the ground also serves as a preventive drain and to properly ground/shield for the manufacturer's intended circuit function.
The electronics that we provide are typically sized for larder machines than the PM940. the PM940 is a relatively small machine with screw drives. These drives are very easy to turn so our light CNC electronics would be fine for that application.
I have a PM940 that I converted to CNC. I am using a Masso controller, Clearpath servos and ArizonaVideo99 CNC ballscrews and mounts kit. I designed and built my electronics enclosures. I used a large Hoffman enclosure and put all my electronics in it and used a smaller Hoffman enclosure and put my VFD in it. Have you made any progress with your 940 yet?
@@halfstep67 I haven't kicked that project off...and now in the mean time, Langmuir has introduced their new MR-1 that looks pretty good. The only thing I'm not real crazy about is their choice of spindle, its limited to a 1/2" and uses a ER20 collet setup versus an R8 and the Z axis is limited compared to PM940 retrofit.
@@ericsandberg3167 Keep in mind if you choose a PM940, you will have to wait for a while due to being sold out and waiting for new shipments to arrive. The PM940 is a pretty good mill. I completely disassembled mine and stripped it down to bare castings and repainted it plus a full CNC conversion. It is a big heavy mill and requires something like an overhead electric winch to help disassemble and reassemble. I am using the Tormach TTS tooling system. I rebuilt my spindle with better quality tapered roller bearings for increased RPM. I can get 6000 RPM with no problems. Someday, I will do a belt conversion but for now, I am using the gearbox.
Interesting video. Your case design is novel. I would have used Linux CNC but mach3 works if you can stand using an os you could never own (Windows 11)
I also use LinuxCNC as you can see in my older videos. However, parallel ports are hard to come by these days unless you build a computer just to use LinuxCNC. I have gotten use to Mach3 over the years and I'm very comfortable with it. Interestingly, back in the day, it was hard to move from LinuxCNC to Mach3, but now Mach3 is my "go-to" software. Thanks for watching the video. I am truly grateful!
@@PatrickHoodDaniel linuxCNC now has USB control and a real nice controller board that's plug and play. And Linux CNC is free but the board is about $200. Good luck.
@@PatrickHoodDaniel Question? is there any money in TH-cam video? I'm retired and not healthy, walk with a cane. I'm looking to build a CNC mill. Something to keep me active. I have talents in many fields.
@@frodobaggins169 It depends on the niche and the amount of time you work at it. My TH-cam hasn't gotten a lot of subscribers because it takes about the same time as a full time job. My channel has been around since 2007. I make around $150 per month on a good month. However, if you use the videos as a complement to other things you do, then that is a better formula.
These are 10-amp power supplies. If you are looking for the "rate" of speed of the current (amps), that is dictated by the voltage, and these power supplied are 48V.
I have not tried applying 12V to the 10V input. The 10V input serves as a voltage reference. If the VRef 10V terminal has the ability to receive a higher voltage, then the PWM may change the range from 0 to 12V rather than 0 to 10V, but I am not sure.
If you have electronics you need worked on, check out my video I just made th-cam.com/video/3c0TTORwN4c/w-d-xo.html and in the description, I have a link where you can get a quote to work on your system. Thanks.
It is possible to find out the benefit of using a relay in this electrical circuit, and whether it can be dispensed with, knowing that I see many people who do not use it. Please advise us
@@PatrickHoodDaniel For example yesterday my test home-server crashed from RAM error when a taxi parked near us and start using powerful and legal mobile radio station. Later tested all 8 modules and no errors were found, modules are non-ECC and during the crash everything was outside of the original case
@@rosswoolley2854 Not sure what you mean. I think the intent of the response got lost in translation as I was asking a question and included a short statement of what understood as a solution. I was expecting a thoughtful conversation. I had no intention of sounding like I am mocking. That's just not who I am.
My guess; Captain "Suggestor" makes or sells wire ferrules and has an unmovable inventory. Been an Industrial ET/Fabricator for 25 years... "wire ferrules" are not only a waste of time and money, but they wiggle loose far more often than "NEATLY" twisted wire pairs! IF, YOU want to add an an extra step of quality-assurance quickly solder the twisted pairs/triples/etc... Otherwise, "Ferrules" make beautiful trash-can liners!
Thanks for the suggestion. I have received comment on not soldering the ends as well. So far, the ferrules have been great as long as you use the correct size for the gauge.
@@PatrickHoodDaniel To clarify my loose comment. The wires themselves typically stay crimped, but the ferrules "wiggle loose" at the screws pinch point due to the air gap within the ferrule, beneath the pinch point. So unless the screw terminals are torqued down to the point to fully collapse the ferrule(which nobody does for a host of reasons.)(Primarily because the terminal would break first.) they end up rattling around with intermittent contact. AND with intermittent contact, there's typically sparking and/or erratic signals that create spikes that damage sensitive circuits. Bare or even better "Soldered", are more secure. Look at it this way: They invented pex, sharkbite, etc... connectors for the plumbing world because "fire scary" and soldering a plumbing joint is "so much harder than just popping something into a hole". It's all marketing BS aimed at cashing-in on laziness and intimidation of learning a skill. Think about the physics of your connections and don't listen to me or Captain gimmick. AND in case your unfamiliar with it, and considering the monotonous amount you're doing, You don't need to use the solder iron on each wire-end. You can use an electric lead pot. 30$-50$...Neatly twist, dip in some good ol' kester 186, dip in "electric lead pot", done... Good luck! No response necessary. Most importantly just try and enjoy your hobbies!
@@TH-camSupportServices My ferrules always collapse in the terminal. I have not come across any of the problems that you are explaining. I have also scoped connections countless times and have seen no noise, spikes or anything you mentioned. This is with me being very uncareful while scoping. I started using wire ferrules from comments like these and now I am told not to use them. Each of the commentators have no videos on their channels to explain why, how or best practices. Until I see a better method demonstrated and in detail, I will probably stick with this.
@@PatrickHoodDaniel DO what cha want man. Sorry, I don't have 25 years of industrial machinery repair and fabrication videos for ya!... Luckily, the "millennial" intellect is a comfortable path to walk down, ....UNTIL it isn't.
save yourselves all the hassle and cost by purchasing an all encompassing ESP32 controller such as Xpro v5 or CNC3D Night Hawk. They are wireless with GCODE sent directly to the controller's sim card and no usb cable required. The price is the same by the time you add the boards and stepper drivers. Been through all this.
Yes but those designs only go up to like 24volt right for the stepper motors? For something like the PrintNC we're upwards of 48v so need more powerful electronics. Not so sure the wood box is a good idea on this design as it's a fire hazard and has no EMI protection. But I like the backboard idea if done with different material.
@@okinawajapan1 you can go up to 40V via external PSU driving a NEMA 34. If you need bigger than that, It would be better to purchase a industrial type machine
Hi, i have a question about cnc hope someone can help me out. right now I'm building my own desktop cnc, my machine is a verticle milling type where the xy axis moves instead of the spindle, i set up my machine to move the workpiece to → which is positive X axis when i jog X+ in software. Is this correct? I'm confused because my spindle is moving → in simulation, meaning if my spindle is rigid, my workpiece should go against my spindle (moving ← direction). i tried a simple reactengle pocket cut, the machine does not do whats shown in the simulation, its doing the opposite. Thanks...
A single power supply would be an extra cost and potentially higher weight., These power supplies allow the current draw for the disparate drivers. A single power supply would be insufficient for all three motors. A single power supply that was spec'd for all three drivers would require a very high current output. Using these power supplies is also providing a safety factor so they will not be topping a current draw, saving the integrity of the components and enamel coating.
I dont see a reason to use 'special" cables for the power supplies. A normal power supply cable can handle 230v at 16a all day long. If you are pulling more then your breaker will trip
@@PatrickHoodDaniel Had some that tended to stall on decel .... after days of configuring the control what ended up fixing it was to turn down the voltage ,,, even though the driver said 60v , it liked it much better at 52 ...
Modern stepper drivers use current chopper control circuitry, voltage is not so crucial here ( however there is a high and low voltage limits for correct operation)
Hi, nice Video but that are not a Closed Loop CNC System! With this System the Closed Loop are recognised only miss steps from the Motor, but not the Backlash from the Ballscrews etc. Also Mach 3 and this USB Board can`t Controll a Live CNC System! For a real Closed Loop System you need a Linear Meassure System at every Axis and also a Controllboard that work over Ethernet etc.
how to control steps movements, like lets say we have 400 circular points to move one by one and i need to move pointer in following example sequence starting from 0->10->240->45->28-> .......... -> 400 . How can we automate this ..
Are those points on a linear movement, or a circular shaft position? If the latter, first you would need to set the steps per unit so one full rotation is 400 steps, then you could create a gcode program: G0 X0 G0 X10 G0 X240 .... If the former, you would set the steps per unit according to the linear distance you desire for the placement of the 400th step. The formula is pretty easy and if this is sounds like I am in the right direction in answering the question, I can help with the formula.
There is nothing special about this job you are doing. Even novices can do this by looking at yutube.60 dollars better to buy materials than to give you.this is not moral.work in a job that will make money..
Thanks for the feedback and you are correct, there is absolutely nothing special about this job, but I will still make videos to help fledgling CNC users and hobbyists no matter how pedestrian the content because I get calls constantly on the benefits of these videos from others. What you may find easy, other may find difficult, or impossible.
With a heavy water cooled CNC and waterline routing I find it's only the Z axis that needs closed loop. I'm mystified why you claim to be designing electronics as you aren't, you're just boxing it up to outer dimensions. Wire ferules are only useful for cheap spring leaf terminals. higher quality rising clamp terminals have no need for ferules except for those who are undisciplined in wire strands preparation.
I explain why I don't use coosed loop in another comment. Thanks for the comment. I am always looking for better ways to insert wires into terminals. Haha.
Maybe I'm too harsh😆 I take my own manual dexterity for granted but many people have fatter fingers and poor close vision. I suppose if there are no other consideration it makes boot-lace crimps look more attractive. Not to diss you too much but when I've been watching ESP32 and bluetooth videos and working on software for my own electronics arrangements it was a surprise to see the electronics in yours was all pre-made before you even saw it😂
@@fluiditynz I have skinny fingers, but have very bad close vision. You see me with jewelers loops in parts of the video. Are you referring to ESP32 as in CNC electronics or ARM ground up electronics for other projects. You may already know I teach ARM microcontroller electronics on this channel which is why I'm confused. Thanks.
@@PatrickHoodDaniel I haven't seen your other videos. But I was I was an early user of Arm for 3D printers, about 13 years ago, I designed up a 3D printer motherboard using an STM32F103VBT (ARM). I had it printing and even processing G codes but I got frustrated because the opensource community was doing a much better job than me alone, even on the little Atmel processors. But I did have my printer working. So it was fascinating after all that time, on my purchase last year of a CR6 max, to see that they used a STM32F103 on a smaller pin count chip. It was actually my first venture into C on the STN32 after many years with only basic variants, VB, Python and assembler for various brands and models of microcontroller. Huge instructions set for RISC unlike the recent RISC V micros!
The build portion on the video is 25 minutes. The extra 7 minutes is instructions for the customer. In TH-cam, you have the wonderful ability to skip ahead. I suggest doing this for future videos that you watch. Thanks for watching and commenting. I am grateful.
Of course I grounded the shield. There is an exposed wire that runs along the shield within the cable that is paired with the DC ground. You can ground shield on the DC ground or the Protective Earth. Since this is a wooden enclosure, the shield is taking the shortest path to ground, it's own DC ground. I could have taken this ground to the PE of the power supply, but that would have introduced too much wire causing an antenna. Because this is in fast motion, you cannot see the shield. If you look at my latest electronics wiring videos in normal speed, you will see I am also grounding all of my shielding and you can see how I do it.
Hi Danial, I have a suggestion, do not make educational and too technical videos, the reason is only few people watch and appreciate the work, make useless tech videos which add no values to normal people, and people will watch the videos. I think youtube is no more a learning place. Try udemy and other platforms for that. Technical videos takes a lot of time and research to make and people take all that knowledge as granted and no one even consider to subscribe. I am following you for last 5 to 6 years and yet you did not cross 100k subs while your videos are full of technical details and knowledge. I am an embedded systems engineer and it really break my heart that you do such a great work and is not getting the reward you deserve.
@@PatrickHoodDanielMaybe functions, wiring and applications of electronics modules you come across or use would be great help and will be much appreciated for rookies and aspiring electronics individuals. Not "useless tech videos which add no values to...". Might as well don't share. You're gifted and sharing what you can, that is appreciated. You are awesome.
Don’t listen to them I need this type of videos for my engineering degree, thank you so much for all of the technical stuff, I really need more of that.
it would be great if you do some picture / sheme how the cables are conectod to the controller und powersuply and how the spindle must be conected to it als becouse it do have 4 or 6 wires whitch are realy small ... I cant realy see who goes where... Sorry for my bad english ))@@PatrickHoodDaniel
@@snouzz-gaming I do have thosoe videos where I detail everything in normal speed. You can find all of those videos on this page: buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board
Hey all, thanks for watching!! These electronics take a crazy amount of time to put together and I am grateful for your viewership. Let me know if you have any questions in the comments.
God bless you ! Awesome edit & design
Your spoil board looks like an aerial view of a city. Pretty cool.
Yeah, that is true. It's probably time to resurface. Haha
If your goal is to burn up the power supplies by restricting the airflow to the fans you might also tape off the fan openings because a minimal amount of air might leak pass the 1/8 inch gap between the wall and the one closest to it. Looks cool, but the compactness has turned it into a thermal nightmare. The air should enter one side and exit on the opposite side for good cross flow.
Well be sure to go buy those plans so you can update them and sell them back.
A bit harsh... but true.
What a dick comment.
@@kurtbilinski1723 I sadly agree. But Awesome video !!
Yeah sadly I gotta agree, add the fact that it is plywood and thus quite flammable ...
The patience and perfection with which you've completed this project is inspiring. Hope I can develop such attributes at some point in my life.
Thanks for the comment. You will and I sure it will be in no time. Just keep at it.
The best clearly detailed explanation I have found so far. Congratulations. That's why I smashed subscribe button.
Wow, thank you so much!!
I am glad you like the ferrules.
Next suggestion- plastic cable raceways to keep the cables neatly organized, instead of the spider web.
Clipping the cables together with the zip ties does the job but doesn’t give the controller that industrial quality look.
Thanks. Great suggestion. I will find a supplier and add them to my inventory. I have loom that is pretty cool looking. It does take a bit of time to put that together. I can add that as an upsell.
Tip: If you're using mach on windows, install windows update blocker. I had a few pieces ruined by unwelcome windows updates
Thanks!
I know when I use to nest parts for a cnc plasma our system always new the stock material size and configuration. If we started with a full sheet and only used some portion the nesting software captured that new shape and gave it a unique ID/name so then we could call up that and nest our parts in all those odd places no re positioning needed. Not sure if anyone already spoke on this but I am sure you know this by now. Good video, Thanks.
Yes, this is something I do from time to time.
Absolutely amazing thank you so much for taking the time to put these videos together. I can’t wait to order my controller from.
You're welcome!
Great information you are sharing! One detail I would like comment on is the cooling fan direction. The "pressurizing" idea does not produce great airflow for cooling. It would be much better with the fan blowing "out". This will create a low pressure in the cabinet which produces laminar air flow. By placing intake holes at the opposite end of the cabinet from the fan, all incoming air crosses the cabinet providing maximum cooling to components. (make intake holes at strategic points between components) When using pressure, the air is only looking for the easiest way out, not necessarily moving near components. Also, you can still "filter" the incoming air.
Thanks. Very helpfull information. I didn't realize that blowing air into the cabinet was less effective than sucking air out of the cabinet for cooling. The retrofits that I work on typically have the air blowing into the cabinet.
quickly becoming a huge fan or Patrick and the work he does!
Thank you so much James!!
I really enjoyed your video, and I feel that the patient explanatory manner that you have helped me to learn quite a few 'new tricks'. Keep up the good work! And your cat reminds me of my young Kitty who also likes to sit in front of my work ( including a welding, which is very dangerous but now this is a 😺 and they have supernatural powers).
Excellent video love how you did an overview of all the main components, Im going to be making my own CNC machine soon but I want my Nema23 motors to connect to gx16 4 pin aviation connectors to install them on a Arduino board just because I hear its easier than Linux CNC
Cool enclosure design. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks!!
I noticed the control board. The red one with the eagle decal on it. It only works with Mach3/4 at this time, not with LinuxCNC (For no good reason)
It actually only works with Mach3, not 4, but it is a shame that it doesn't work on Linux. I may have to investigate this on my livestreams.
@@PatrickHoodDaniel You're in luck. I'm a firmware guy, who is a linuxcnc enjoyer. I'm in the process of writing my own firmware for this card, so that it will work on linux. Technically it should work as-is, it's just a human-interface-device (HID) class. linux enumerates it just fine. I did some wireshark capture to see what it sends, it's straight-forward for the most part. One could write a linux driver that works with existing firmware
@@eitantal726 Nice, I would love for you to come in to the livestreams. I livestream every weekday at 1:00 pm eastern.
Thank you for this video
You're welcome!
That really is excellent work!
Thanks.
Ok some pretty obvious criticisms
Delete parts/processes. No need for that many power supplies.
Power supply has a fan for a reason. 4mm gap u left is not nearly enough
Generally a better practice to solder rather than crimp.
But the biggest one is: why wood and plastic? Why not buy an off-the-shelf metal electric box and screw into the chassy? That's better in every perspective: no fire risk, EMI shielding, less labor, very comparable cost, even looks better aesthetically (although that hardly matters).
No i don't think you were harsh enough. How is he going to ground all the components and the case is what i want to know?
@@rosswoolley2854he does ground them. But I do agree, an industrial control panel would be a good choice for this project. Especially with so many parts wired
Thnx
Thank you for a very need video. Will contact you in the future.
I think you should also provide some natural ventilation for those SMPS units and the stepper drivers,
Thanks
What is the need for using 3 power supplies? And what is the purpose of a relay?
Eash power supply powers each motor/driver pair, and closed loop setups typically come in that format. I could have used a huge transformer, but that would have added unnecessary weight. The relay is used to decouple the signal connection between the controller and the VFD. I could have just connected the two grounds together from the controller and the VFD, but I have had issues with doing this in the past.
@@PatrickHoodDaniel many thanks. I have had trouble integrating/connecting a pulse laser directly from a cnc controller to switch on and off with a g code command. I believe a relay might help as a middle man but wasn’t sure of the circuitry and the specific relay to adopt. Any thoughts?
@@pratikshukla6075 If you're going to be pulsing the laser at a high frequency, like more than a few times per second, I would not use a relay. If you can't connect the laser trigger directly to an output from the controller, then you should use a device that is intended to switch at a high frequency, like a solid state relay, a mosfet, or a transistor. But, if you are using the laser in a typical laser type scenario, I would highly recommend using a laser DSP, like the Ruida or similar controller.
This is perfection, such an amazing job.
Really inspiring.
Thanks.
strangest looking enclosure I've ever seen. Nice build.
Thanks! I've been doing these types of enclosures for about 14 years.
Keep it up, bro! 💪🔥
VERY GOOD ....I LIKE THIS
Thank you!
Sir, I am from India,
You are one of those who inspired me and gave me the confidence to think about building a CNC router..!!!
I have some doubts. Can You help or do a video on this???
I use the Same RNR Motion card.
1)Can I use Adhesive Aluminum Tape to wrap the Motor Cables and Signal Cables and earth one end to the Chassie to prevent any EMI-related issues..!?
Simply wrapping the cables with a conductive material like aluminum and grounding one end of that wrap to the machine body would discharge any potential voltage spikes that may affect?!
If that is effective,
Grounding to the Chassie or the electronic/digital /DC ground on the controller board? Which is necessary?
Yes, you can do that. Look at videos from www.youtube.com/@baxedm9806 and you will see he is doing a very similar thing. The EDM machine puts out a much higher EMI than a router, so this technique is a way to ground EMI.
Thank you for typing those long set of words for me..! Keep up Sir..! I will Check@@PatrickHoodDaniel
Control cables should generally be routed separately, motor cables produce electrical noise so have to be routed separately. Similarly keep the USB cable away from the motor cables. In an industrial setup even the ground would not be shared
do you have the wiring diagram and all the electronics used
Would be nice to know the power of the steppers and the ampage of the power supplies.
what are the name of those connectors you are using for the motors? the black and blue ones?
Speakon. Typically used for audio.
Btw, what's the controller you're using? Looks like the 4 axis USB CNC MACH3 Board???
That's it.
@@PatrickHoodDaniel thank you! 🙏
Excellent Video. Any reason why you chose to go with the open loop on the Z axis?
There is very little torque using the selected NEMA 34 motor, so I was way within spec. I only choose closed loop when the torque required for the application is somewhat close to the motor torque. In this case, these are the largest motors you can find for NEMA 34 and you need to step up to NEMA 42 for more torque and the customer's machine is set for NEAM 34.
Your awesome!
Thank you so much!
You have a power supply for each axis? Why does closed loop require a lot more power. Are you driving stepper motors or servos? Looks very over my head complicated . That control center your wiring up must weigh a ton no?
Nope, it's pretty light compared to a toroid transformer.
Did you end up changing the orientation of the Y axis connector as it was 180 off from the other 3? 26:50
Yes, I rotated it, I think. It was a long time ago and I don't think my OCD would have let me let that go.
lol, that would definitely make me bonkers too! thanks for sharing the video.
Considering the type of electronics, why is there no mcb, contactor, led indicator, voltage display, emergency on the mains input, mains power distribution? Also why would you use a wooden box nd not sheet metal?
Great video!! Why use three power supplies instead of a single big one?
Because it's cheaper!
Thank you for a great video. Please excuse my lack of understanding,but where do the the encoder’s get connected to? Also do they provide feedback to mach3? Thanks!
The encoders go back to the driver. Mach3 doesn't take the encoder feedback as that would be more processing than is necessary. The driver knows the commanded pulses and will make every attempt to achieve the commanded position for the motor. If every attempt the driver makes fails, the driver will output an alarm for one of the controller inputs so the machine can stop. If the driver cannot achieve the desired position, there will most likely be a physical binding or interference with the travel of that axis.
Nice video showing your abilities and great touches on the box! One question I have is, you use two motors on the X axis, is that because you build router based machines on the wall? I am new to this, and will be using to control a Sherline mill machine so you threw me off by using triple power supplies, double motors, relays for different things, and a mist/flood pump that I understand would be for metal (but you seem to work on wood and plastics only), and so on. I bought mine used with no warranties so I have only one power supply S-240-24 (that’s providing 27.6V at the moment), three drivers HY-DIV268N-5A, and one breakout box(?) NVCMV2.1 125 kHz to control up to 6 motors, and 3 nema23 motors that are 2A each. I’ll be using my laptop with Mach3 to test it but plan to replace it with a desktop in the near future. If you can give me a few tips, I’ll be very grateful as I’m lost in this! Your video was very good but since it goes full fast forward it leaves individuals like me with a bunch of questions 😢! I was a computer tech for over 30 years but never got into the Breadboards and deep electronics, even though I have a good understanding of components and maintenance on them like the soldering, replacements and such.
Thank you!
Builds like these are for customers and not for my machines. This customer used two motors to move his gantry. This is the typical setup for most CNC routers of a large size. My machines typically only use one motor with a very long shaft extending so two motors are not needed and squaring is resolved mechanically. Most closed loop electronics use a power supply for each axis. It is how it is typically sold, but I also like using separate power supplies to get a bit of extra room for current. I have a lot of videos that step you through the process very slowly and in a detailed way. I would suggest taking a look at those videos. A good starting point would be the videos on this page: buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board
WOW! The fastest reply in the whole TH-cam universe!!!!
I’m still puzzled by the closed loop (watched only one video on it) and it’s benefits but for now I’ll have to stick to my setup as money is a great barrier on my evil world domination plans 😂!
I’ll watch the other ones but before then….
SUBSCRIBING!!!!
I appreciate you taking your precious time to discuss particle physics with a toddler, but keep in mind that I sincerely am impressed with such care for your viewers! Hard to find it in here anymore!
If I can be of any help, let me know!
Edson from the sunshine state!
AND you’ve got your own playlist in my library! A $59.99 value, yours for free!!! 😂😂😂
Thank you, brother! It really means a lot to me!
@@roadshowautosports Thank you very much. Buildyourcnc also from the sunshine state!
Great video and nice work!
Why a circuit breaker is not needed?
This system will require a single circuit from the main breaker.
Speak-on connectors are a good idea for motor connections, but they're 4 pin so you wouldn't have an extra pin for grounding the cable shielding.
How are you grounding all of the components, seeing they are attached to a timber backing. Not good practice.
You could use a aluminium backing!
I take everything to earth ground. There are many products out there with wood, plastic and other nonconductive enclosures. Many of these items don't actually include a ground wire since the nonconductive enclosure is not a shock hazard. I still use ground in this scenario since there is a lot of EMI and this noise can be taken to ground. The individual components also have metal housings so the ground also serves as a preventive drain and to properly ground/shield for the manufacturer's intended circuit function.
Have you ever done any control designs for metal CNC machines like a Precision Mathews 940...??
The electronics that we provide are typically sized for larder machines than the PM940. the PM940 is a relatively small machine with screw drives. These drives are very easy to turn so our light CNC electronics would be fine for that application.
I have a PM940 that I converted to CNC. I am using a Masso controller, Clearpath servos and ArizonaVideo99 CNC ballscrews and mounts kit. I designed and built my electronics enclosures. I used a large Hoffman enclosure and put all my electronics in it and used a smaller Hoffman enclosure and put my VFD in it. Have you made any progress with your 940 yet?
@@halfstep67 I haven't kicked that project off...and now in the mean time, Langmuir has introduced their new MR-1 that looks pretty good. The only thing I'm not real crazy about is their choice of spindle, its limited to a 1/2" and uses a ER20 collet setup versus an R8 and the Z axis is limited compared to PM940 retrofit.
@@ericsandberg3167 Keep in mind if you choose a PM940, you will have to wait for a while due to being sold out and waiting for new shipments to arrive. The PM940 is a pretty good mill. I completely disassembled mine and stripped it down to bare castings and repainted it plus a full CNC conversion. It is a big heavy mill and requires something like an overhead electric winch to help disassemble and reassemble. I am using the Tormach TTS tooling system. I rebuilt my spindle with better quality tapered roller bearings for increased RPM. I can get 6000 RPM with no problems. Someday, I will do a belt conversion but for now, I am using the gearbox.
Interesting video. Your case design is novel. I would have used Linux CNC but mach3 works if you can stand using an os you could never own (Windows 11)
I also use LinuxCNC as you can see in my older videos. However, parallel ports are hard to come by these days unless you build a computer just to use LinuxCNC. I have gotten use to Mach3 over the years and I'm very comfortable with it. Interestingly, back in the day, it was hard to move from LinuxCNC to Mach3, but now Mach3 is my "go-to" software. Thanks for watching the video. I am truly grateful!
@@PatrickHoodDaniel linuxCNC now has USB control and a real nice controller board that's plug and play. And Linux CNC is free but the board is about $200. Good luck.
@@frodobaggins169 Thanks. I will add that to my arsenal! Do you have a link?
@@PatrickHoodDaniel Question? is there any money in TH-cam video? I'm retired and not healthy, walk with a cane. I'm looking to build a CNC mill. Something to keep me active. I have talents in many fields.
@@frodobaggins169 It depends on the niche and the amount of time you work at it. My TH-cam hasn't gotten a lot of subscribers because it takes about the same time as a full time job. My channel has been around since 2007. I make around $150 per month on a good month. However, if you use the videos as a complement to other things you do, then that is a better formula.
Amp rate of this power supplies
These are 10-amp power supplies. If you are looking for the "rate" of speed of the current (amps), that is dictated by the voltage, and these power supplied are 48V.
Can the V10 port take 12V or it needs exactly 10V ?
I have not tried applying 12V to the 10V input. The 10V input serves as a voltage reference. If the VRef 10V terminal has the ability to receive a higher voltage, then the PWM may change the range from 0 to 12V rather than 0 to 10V, but I am not sure.
@@PatrickHoodDaniel Thanks for relpying. My VFD delivers 12V instead of 10V so I bought a DC buck converter to make it 10V. It won't work with 12V.
I would like to talk with you about a plasma table I have a problem with
If you have electronics you need worked on, check out my video I just made th-cam.com/video/3c0TTORwN4c/w-d-xo.html and in the description, I have a link where you can get a quote to work on your system. Thanks.
You haven't seen problems, but if you get this guy to build a control box for you you will find out the hard way!
It is possible to find out the benefit of using a relay in this electrical circuit, and whether it can be dispensed with, knowing that I see many people who do not use it. Please advise us
I think the relay is for controlling /coolant pump
Don't get it why the customer wanted shielded cables but not shielding box for the whole control block
What appreciable benefit is shielding the control box? The individual components are earth grounded. Thanks.
@@PatrickHoodDaniel For example yesterday my test home-server crashed from RAM error when a taxi parked near us and start using powerful and legal mobile radio station. Later tested all 8 modules and no errors were found, modules are non-ECC and during the crash everything was outside of the original case
@@PatrickHoodDaniel It's better to take advice than to mock it.
@@rosswoolley2854 Not sure what you mean. I think the intent of the response got lost in translation as I was asking a question and included a short statement of what understood as a solution. I was expecting a thoughtful conversation. I had no intention of sounding like I am mocking. That's just not who I am.
My guess; Captain "Suggestor" makes or sells wire ferrules and has an unmovable inventory. Been an Industrial ET/Fabricator for 25 years... "wire ferrules" are not only a waste of time and money, but they wiggle loose far more often than "NEATLY" twisted wire pairs! IF, YOU want to add an an extra step of quality-assurance quickly solder the twisted pairs/triples/etc... Otherwise, "Ferrules" make beautiful trash-can liners!
Thanks for the suggestion. I have received comment on not soldering the ends as well. So far, the ferrules have been great as long as you use the correct size for the gauge.
@@PatrickHoodDaniel To clarify my loose comment. The wires themselves typically stay crimped, but the ferrules "wiggle loose" at the screws pinch point due to the air gap within the ferrule, beneath the pinch point. So unless the screw terminals are torqued down to the point to fully collapse the ferrule(which nobody does for a host of reasons.)(Primarily because the terminal would break first.) they end up rattling around with intermittent contact. AND with intermittent contact, there's typically sparking and/or erratic signals that create spikes that damage sensitive circuits. Bare or even better "Soldered", are more secure. Look at it this way: They invented pex, sharkbite, etc... connectors for the plumbing world because "fire scary" and soldering a plumbing joint is "so much harder than just popping something into a hole". It's all marketing BS aimed at cashing-in on laziness and intimidation of learning a skill. Think about the physics of your connections and don't listen to me or Captain gimmick. AND in case your unfamiliar with it, and considering the monotonous amount you're doing, You don't need to use the solder iron on each wire-end. You can use an electric lead pot. 30$-50$...Neatly twist, dip in some good ol' kester 186, dip in "electric lead pot", done... Good luck! No response necessary. Most importantly just try and enjoy your hobbies!
@@TH-camSupportServices My ferrules always collapse in the terminal. I have not come across any of the problems that you are explaining. I have also scoped connections countless times and have seen no noise, spikes or anything you mentioned. This is with me being very uncareful while scoping. I started using wire ferrules from comments like these and now I am told not to use them. Each of the commentators have no videos on their channels to explain why, how or best practices. Until I see a better method demonstrated and in detail, I will probably stick with this.
@@PatrickHoodDaniel DO what cha want man. Sorry, I don't have 25 years of industrial machinery repair and fabrication videos for ya!... Luckily, the "millennial" intellect is a comfortable path to walk down, ....UNTIL it isn't.
"Buildyourowncnc" link is broken 💔
Thank you so much. I just fixed the link.
save yourselves all the hassle and cost by purchasing an all encompassing ESP32 controller such as Xpro v5 or CNC3D Night Hawk. They are wireless with GCODE sent directly to the controller's sim card and no usb cable required. The price is the same by the time you add the boards and stepper drivers. Been through all this.
Yes but those designs only go up to like 24volt right for the stepper motors? For something like the PrintNC we're upwards of 48v so need more powerful electronics.
Not so sure the wood box is a good idea on this design as it's a fire hazard and has no EMI protection. But I like the backboard idea if done with different material.
@@okinawajapan1 you can go up to 40V via external PSU driving a NEMA 34. If you need bigger than that, It would be better to purchase a industrial type machine
Hi, i have a question about cnc hope someone can help me out. right now I'm building my own desktop cnc, my machine is a verticle milling type where the xy axis moves instead of the spindle, i set up my machine to move the workpiece to → which is positive X axis when i jog X+ in software. Is this correct? I'm confused because my spindle is moving → in simulation, meaning if my spindle is rigid, my workpiece should go against my spindle (moving ← direction). i tried a simple reactengle pocket cut, the machine does not do whats shown in the simulation, its doing the opposite. Thanks...
"in 25 Minutes" 32 minutes later XD
Dang!! You're right! Haha
lots of power. Did I miss the fuses.
How many fuses do you put inline before you plug your PC power supply into a motherboard?
@@TH-camSupportServicesat least one breaker would be there. A fuse in the PC Smps would also be advisable
4:35
You would be better off using 1 power supply for the motors.
A single power supply would be an extra cost and potentially higher weight., These power supplies allow the current draw for the disparate drivers. A single power supply would be insufficient for all three motors. A single power supply that was spec'd for all three drivers would require a very high current output. Using these power supplies is also providing a safety factor so they will not be topping a current draw, saving the integrity of the components and enamel coating.
I dont see a reason to use 'special" cables for the power supplies. A normal power supply cable can handle 230v at 16a all day long. If you are pulling more then your breaker will trip
Steppers work better when you run them at less than maximum voltage ...Just a hint ....
Thanks.
@@PatrickHoodDaniel Had some that tended to stall on decel .... after days of configuring the control what ended up fixing it was to turn down the voltage ,,, even though the driver said 60v , it liked it much better at 52 ...
Modern stepper drivers use current chopper control circuitry, voltage is not so crucial here ( however there is a high and low voltage limits for correct operation)
@@arbjful These are "modern" steppers ...and they are more likely to stall on decel at max voltage .
@@theiaminu5375 that’s strange, we never faced that problem. I suppose ‘modern’ is a relative term
it's probably amateurish, I'll never pay money to have it done
Thanks for the feedback.
Hi, nice Video but that are not a Closed Loop CNC System! With this System the Closed Loop are recognised only miss steps from the Motor, but not the Backlash from the Ballscrews etc. Also Mach 3 and this USB Board can`t Controll a Live CNC System! For a real Closed Loop System you need a Linear Meassure System at every Axis and also a Controllboard that work over Ethernet etc.
how to control steps movements, like lets say we have 400 circular points to move one by one and i need to move pointer in following example sequence starting from 0->10->240->45->28-> .......... -> 400 . How can we automate this ..
Are those points on a linear movement, or a circular shaft position? If the latter, first you would need to set the steps per unit so one full rotation is 400 steps, then you could create a gcode program: G0 X0 G0 X10 G0 X240 .... If the former, you would set the steps per unit according to the linear distance you desire for the placement of the 400th step. The formula is pretty easy and if this is sounds like I am in the right direction in answering the question, I can help with the formula.
@@PatrickHoodDaniel this is what wanted to achieve but using gcode..th-cam.com/video/SUziz1zupGk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=K1gqiJ3PW6hxuFhH
There is nothing special about this job you are doing. Even novices can do this by looking at yutube.60 dollars better to buy materials than to give you.this is not moral.work in a job that will make money..
Thanks for the feedback and you are correct, there is absolutely nothing special about this job, but I will still make videos to help fledgling CNC users and hobbyists no matter how pedestrian the content because I get calls constantly on the benefits of these videos from others. What you may find easy, other may find difficult, or impossible.
With a heavy water cooled CNC and waterline routing I find it's only the Z axis that needs closed loop. I'm mystified why you claim to be designing electronics as you aren't, you're just boxing it up to outer dimensions. Wire ferules are only useful for cheap spring leaf terminals. higher quality rising clamp terminals have no need for ferules except for those who are undisciplined in wire strands preparation.
I explain why I don't use coosed loop in another comment. Thanks for the comment. I am always looking for better ways to insert wires into terminals. Haha.
Maybe I'm too harsh😆 I take my own manual dexterity for granted but many people have fatter fingers and poor close vision. I suppose if there are no other consideration it makes boot-lace crimps look more attractive. Not to diss you too much but when I've been watching ESP32 and bluetooth videos and working on software for my own electronics arrangements it was a surprise to see the electronics in yours was all pre-made before you even saw it😂
@@fluiditynz I have skinny fingers, but have very bad close vision. You see me with jewelers loops in parts of the video. Are you referring to ESP32 as in CNC electronics or ARM ground up electronics for other projects. You may already know I teach ARM microcontroller electronics on this channel which is why I'm confused. Thanks.
@@PatrickHoodDaniel I haven't seen your other videos. But I was I was an early user of Arm for 3D printers, about 13 years ago, I designed up a 3D printer motherboard using an STM32F103VBT (ARM). I had it printing and even processing G codes but I got frustrated because the opensource community was doing a much better job than me alone, even on the little Atmel processors. But I did have my printer working. So it was fascinating after all that time, on my purchase last year of a CR6 max, to see that they used a STM32F103 on a smaller pin count chip. It was actually my first venture into C on the STN32 after many years with only basic variants, VB, Python and assembler for various brands and models of microcontroller. Huge instructions set for RISC unlike the recent RISC V micros!
So misleading, you edited it for 25 minutes, you didn't build it in 25 minutes, even then your video is 32 minutes.
The build portion on the video is 25 minutes. The extra 7 minutes is instructions for the customer. In TH-cam, you have the wonderful ability to skip ahead. I suggest doing this for future videos that you watch. Thanks for watching and commenting. I am grateful.
Where is the link to putchase? 😢
hang on you added shielded wire but didnt ground the shielding? Lol wtf are you doing.
Of course I grounded the shield. There is an exposed wire that runs along the shield within the cable that is paired with the DC ground. You can ground shield on the DC ground or the Protective Earth. Since this is a wooden enclosure, the shield is taking the shortest path to ground, it's own DC ground. I could have taken this ground to the PE of the power supply, but that would have introduced too much wire causing an antenna. Because this is in fast motion, you cannot see the shield. If you look at my latest electronics wiring videos in normal speed, you will see I am also grounding all of my shielding and you can see how I do it.
Ahh fair enough. Hard to see at that speed. I stand corrected.@@PatrickHoodDaniel
Hi Danial, I have a suggestion, do not make educational and too technical videos, the reason is only few people watch and appreciate the work, make useless tech videos which add no values to normal people, and people will watch the videos. I think youtube is no more a learning place. Try udemy and other platforms for that. Technical videos takes a lot of time and research to make and people take all that knowledge as granted and no one even consider to subscribe. I am following you for last 5 to 6 years and yet you did not cross 100k subs while your videos are full of technical details and knowledge. I am an embedded systems engineer and it really break my heart that you do such a great work and is not getting the reward you deserve.
That is a great suggestion. Thank yo so much for the guidance. I have considered going to another platform and maybe now is the time to consider this.
@@PatrickHoodDanielMaybe functions, wiring and applications of electronics modules you come across or use would be great help and will be much appreciated for rookies and aspiring electronics individuals. Not "useless tech videos which add no values to...". Might as well don't share. You're gifted and sharing what you can, that is appreciated. You are awesome.
@@nevales Thank you. I will consider this. Sounds like a great idea.
Don’t listen to them I need this type of videos for my engineering degree, thank you so much for all of the technical stuff, I really need more of that.
This is junk.... don't buy this, or build this, it's all wrong !
@@johnross3752 Can you tell me why you think this is junk?
Thank you!!
Hi, can you do only a plan how i must to set up and wiring all stuff together to become it work?
I show the wiring in the video. You would like the wiring shown in a different form?
it would be great if you do some picture / sheme how the cables are conectod to the controller und powersuply and how the spindle must be conected to it als becouse it do have 4 or 6 wires whitch are realy small ... I cant realy see who goes where...
Sorry for my bad english ))@@PatrickHoodDaniel
@@snouzz-gaming I do have thosoe videos where I detail everything in normal speed. You can find all of those videos on this page: buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board