Looks good to me. Thanks for taking it to the next level. Even if you buy a new case that comes with the full flow tapped you will have to address this issue. I noticed that when I add sealer it effects the final resting place. Thanks for the referral too
Thanks for the tip, building my engine in the coming weeks, and figured hell I got it apart I might as well tap the case for proper oiling. Don't want to risk spinning a bearing on a new crank and cam
Yes, use cutting oil like Tapmatic. There is no bottoming tap for NPT. You were ok before you tapped it more because with Locktite you should turn it about a half turn more after it’s finger tight. That definitely won’t crack the case. If you want your case really clean, remove the small plugs too. Tap & plug them with 1/8” and/or 1/16” NPT plugs & Locktite. Don’t paint the case silver. Retains heat like a teapot. ONLY Flat black if anything! Even cylinders, pushrod tubes, valve covers etc.
I plan on doing this with my build. I'm curious why a threaded extension couldn't be used to get beyond the interference. I realize there is one more place for potential leaks, but with pipe threads...eh. Now would there be interference with other components? Don't know, but I'm going to experiment with that concept.
you should be putting a plug in that hole and then tapping the gallery under it and using a long straight fitting from JAYCEE so you have a straight shot into the main gallery and you can use a full flow 90 hose end to connect the line to it for better oil flow than the two piece 90 fitting deal you are using
So how far can you actually go into the case before you start obstructing the oil gallery? Or do you check that and relief cut the fitting to clearance the opening?
mike richard - if you arr using the correct fitting and drill bit combo, along with thread seeler you should have no issue with screwing in too far. The main concern is to NOT over-tighen, or you will crack the case.
I found that the magnesium chips stuck to the case with oil and therefore, were harder to get out. Magnesium is so soft so I think the tap should be fine without any cutting oil
there is a much better way: 1. use a bottom tap, not a start or intermediate 2. use proper AN fittings instead of cheap brass pipe fittings, that way you can position the fitting exactly where you want it 3. use thread sealant. npt threads are not designed to seal completely (btw, that is not ”outflow”, it’s the return side) or, if you want to make your life a lot easier, get a pump cover with in and out built in.
Thx. But, it's better to start w/a brass fitting, then add AN on. Brads is better for magnesium cases. And, yea, I did put sealing-tape at final install. Goodluck w/yours
@@vwjunky3906 not sure who told you that but it's nonsense. coefficient of linear expansion of aluminium is a lot closer to aluminium and magnesium than brass is, and AN fittings are a lot simpler to fit. you can even skip messing about w NPT, just use straight threads and sealant. not criticising your choice, just pointing out there are better methods for anyone else who's interested.
Looks good to me. Thanks for taking it to the next level. Even if you buy a new case that comes with the full flow tapped you will have to address this issue. I noticed that when I add sealer it effects the final resting place. Thanks for the referral too
Thanks for the tip, building my engine in the coming weeks, and figured hell I got it apart I might as well tap the case for proper oiling. Don't want to risk spinning a bearing on a new crank and cam
Yes, use cutting oil like Tapmatic. There is no bottoming tap for NPT. You were ok before you tapped it more because with Locktite you should turn it about a half turn more after it’s finger tight. That definitely won’t crack the case. If you want your case really clean, remove the small plugs too. Tap & plug them with 1/8” and/or 1/16” NPT plugs & Locktite. Don’t paint the case silver. Retains heat like a teapot. ONLY Flat black if anything! Even cylinders, pushrod tubes, valve covers etc.
Or use a bottoming tap after the starting tap
Is aluminum better or magnesium?
what sealant did you finally use?
I plan on doing this with my build. I'm curious why a threaded extension couldn't be used to get beyond the interference. I realize there is one more place for potential leaks, but with pipe threads...eh. Now would there be interference with other components? Don't know, but I'm going to experiment with that concept.
What about the plumbing tape?
FYI - NPT = National Pipe Thread (tap)
you should be putting a plug in that hole and then tapping the gallery under it and using a long straight fitting from JAYCEE so you have a straight shot into the main gallery and you can use a full flow 90 hose end to connect the line to it for better oil flow than the two piece 90 fitting deal you are using
use alu npt to an adapter. better seal and less likely to crack the case.
Tap can crack the hole also
So how far can you actually go into the case before you start obstructing the oil gallery? Or do you check that and relief cut the fitting to clearance the opening?
mike richard - if you arr using the correct fitting and drill bit combo, along with thread seeler you should have no issue with screwing in too far. The main concern is to NOT over-tighen, or you will crack the case.
The side gallery is already blocked in one of a few ways, so that's not a concern. Flow through the fitting continues in the same direction.
Scrap that, I may be talking crap
What would be the possibility of putting a washer under the fitting. The more washers the less revolutions to make it tight. Just a thought.
Then the threads would leak, it's a tapered thread.
Use cutting oil
Clive Armstrong I'm in
I found that the magnesium chips stuck to the case with oil and therefore, were harder to get out. Magnesium is so soft so I think the tap should be fine without any cutting oil
Right on 👍🏼👍🏼
Or.... once youve tapped the hole - then grind the tappered end off of the tap so it will cut it straight to the bottom 😉
Thank you! Is that a new case or blasted?
It's painted, not new...
no more TAP!!. just use TEFLON. works 4 me on LOWRIDER HYDRAULIC SISTEMS wen i need it facing were i want.
there is a much better way:
1. use a bottom tap, not a start or intermediate
2. use proper AN fittings instead of cheap brass pipe fittings, that way you can position the fitting exactly where you want it
3. use thread sealant. npt threads are not designed to seal completely
(btw, that is not ”outflow”, it’s the return side)
or, if you want to make your life a lot easier, get a pump cover with in and out built in.
Thx. But, it's better to start w/a brass fitting, then add AN on. Brads is better for magnesium cases. And, yea, I did put sealing-tape at final install. Goodluck w/yours
@@vwjunky3906 not sure who told you that but it's nonsense. coefficient of linear expansion of aluminium is a lot closer to aluminium and magnesium than brass is, and AN fittings are a lot simpler to fit. you can even skip messing about w NPT, just use straight threads and sealant. not criticising your choice, just pointing out there are better methods for anyone else who's interested.
It’s a FITTING not a bit.
no slezgy geezy