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VW Junky
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 5 เม.ย. 2016
VW, vw bug, bugs, type 1, beetles, ghias, bus, auto, fix, repair, convertible, garage
1968 Convertible vw Bug Chassis Rebuild
Vlog on complete rebuild on convertible bug. Everything has been stripped, rust free, painted, new pans welded, 2" narrowed adjustable beam, disc brakes, 2.5" drop spindles, new tie rods, 911 rims.......
มุมมอง: 681
วีดีโอ
Plug n port 26mm VW oil pump
มุมมอง 5K8 ปีที่แล้ว
Tapping threads at the out port of 26mm VW Bug oil pump. Put a 14mm x 1.5 thread plug to block port. Now it's ready for full-flow. Also, ported the intake so oil flows better.
Full flow oil - VW case.
มุมมอง 38K8 ปีที่แล้ว
How to tap vw case for full flow, this is just a small solution on making the threads deep enough for the 90 degree fitting to turn in and tighten at the perfect location.
Grinding a oil channel on vw lifter.
มุมมอง 2.6K8 ปีที่แล้ว
Using a Drexel tool with metal grinding bit to put a channel for better oil flow on vw bug lifters.
Make your own Solid VW rocker. Prt.2
มุมมอง 6638 ปีที่แล้ว
After cutting the stock rocker down and drilling some holes on the ends, we are ready to tap threads and build the solid rocker.
Make your own Solid VW rocker shaft. Prt 1
มุมมอง 9838 ปีที่แล้ว
Take your German stock rockers and cut the ends off at the clip slots. Add a 17/64 hole and tap an 8mm 1.24 thread hole. Put the 2" spacer in the middle and you have yourself a $4 solid rocker.
This Hoover mod is a complete disaster for your engine .. Don't do it ! Check out Scottie's lifter video on his analytics. Don't do it !
Is aluminum better or magnesium?
Thanks for the tip, building my engine in the coming weeks, and figured hell I got it apart I might as well tap the case for proper oiling. Don't want to risk spinning a bearing on a new crank and cam
Yes, use cutting oil like Tapmatic. There is no bottoming tap for NPT. You were ok before you tapped it more because with Locktite you should turn it about a half turn more after it’s finger tight. That definitely won’t crack the case. If you want your case really clean, remove the small plugs too. Tap & plug them with 1/8” and/or 1/16” NPT plugs & Locktite. Don’t paint the case silver. Retains heat like a teapot. ONLY Flat black if anything! Even cylinders, pushrod tubes, valve covers etc.
Tap can crack the hole also
What if I made a single but wider channel? Just wondering...
no slezgy geezy
What about the plumbing tape?
I plan on doing this with my build. I'm curious why a threaded extension couldn't be used to get beyond the interference. I realize there is one more place for potential leaks, but with pipe threads...eh. Now would there be interference with other components? Don't know, but I'm going to experiment with that concept.
there is a much better way: 1. use a bottom tap, not a start or intermediate 2. use proper AN fittings instead of cheap brass pipe fittings, that way you can position the fitting exactly where you want it 3. use thread sealant. npt threads are not designed to seal completely (btw, that is not ”outflow”, it’s the return side) or, if you want to make your life a lot easier, get a pump cover with in and out built in.
Thx. But, it's better to start w/a brass fitting, then add AN on. Brads is better for magnesium cases. And, yea, I did put sealing-tape at final install. Goodluck w/yours
@@vwjunky3906 not sure who told you that but it's nonsense. coefficient of linear expansion of aluminium is a lot closer to aluminium and magnesium than brass is, and AN fittings are a lot simpler to fit. you can even skip messing about w NPT, just use straight threads and sealant. not criticising your choice, just pointing out there are better methods for anyone else who's interested.
you should be putting a plug in that hole and then tapping the gallery under it and using a long straight fitting from JAYCEE so you have a straight shot into the main gallery and you can use a full flow 90 hose end to connect the line to it for better oil flow than the two piece 90 fitting deal you are using
It’s a FITTING not a bit.
what sealant did you finally use?
FYI - NPT = National Pipe Thread (tap)
use alu npt to an adapter. better seal and less likely to crack the case.
This is part of the HVX treatment for VW engines created by Bob Hoover... Nice!
Or use a bottoming tap after the starting tap
What would be the possibility of putting a washer under the fitting. The more washers the less revolutions to make it tight. Just a thought.
Then the threads would leak, it's a tapered thread.
So how far can you actually go into the case before you start obstructing the oil gallery? Or do you check that and relief cut the fitting to clearance the opening?
mike richard - if you arr using the correct fitting and drill bit combo, along with thread seeler you should have no issue with screwing in too far. The main concern is to NOT over-tighen, or you will crack the case.
The side gallery is already blocked in one of a few ways, so that's not a concern. Flow through the fitting continues in the same direction.
Scrap that, I may be talking crap
Thank you! Is that a new case or blasted?
It's painted, not new...
no more TAP!!. just use TEFLON. works 4 me on LOWRIDER HYDRAULIC SISTEMS wen i need it facing were i want.
Where did you get that dremel tool bit?
Hi, Nice 👍🏼 I have a question, How do I remove the short studs and replace them for largers? Where can I buy them?
The best solution in my opinion is to sray some lock-tight/corosion losening spray (like WD40 or better) into studs. Put 2 nuts onto one stud and tighten the 2 together. then, start backing out the stud. if it doesnt come out, then a pair of vise-grip plyers may work. sometimes you may have to file/dremel 2 sides of the stud to make it square in order to get plyers or a wrench to grip the stud. Obviousely you will throw this stud away by this time. After you get them out take one to Ace Hardware and get the right lengthn of "SS Allen head" bolt. it should be a 8mm (i think). try maybe a 1" or 1.25" long bolt. this is my preference, to use allen bolts instead of double-threaden stud with nuts. if you need more clarification i can post a small vid?
Use cutting oil
Clive Armstrong I'm in
I found that the magnesium chips stuck to the case with oil and therefore, were harder to get out. Magnesium is so soft so I think the tap should be fine without any cutting oil
Good work! be sure to use Good German steel bolts that can take the torque!
Thanks for sharing...
Right on 👍🏼👍🏼
Or.... once youve tapped the hole - then grind the tappered end off of the tap so it will cut it straight to the bottom 😉
Looking forward to your next vid
Hello, Just found your videos, and enjoy how other people do VW stuff.I too am building a type 1 motor for a Manx clone dune buggy.I like your detail with the small stuff, since I'm new to the VW world, it helps me a lot.I follow EZ and VW Darrin. They've giving me enough insight to building VW engines to realize how unknowing my own local VW parts store is.Look forward to more build videos.roger
roger ballard Thanks roger. i just watched your buggy vid, nice job. i am getting close go priming my vw vert.
Sweet!
Nice!
Looks good to me. Thanks for taking it to the next level. Even if you buy a new case that comes with the full flow tapped you will have to address this issue. I noticed that when I add sealer it effects the final resting place. Thanks for the referral too
Nice :-)
Thanks EZ, I'm giving it an effort, not as good as your professional youtube vids:)
:-) will be watching to see how it all works out over the long haul. I tried that ounce after shimming up some stock springs and loosing a wave washer. Drove the car many miles without a problem but it was totally stock except for shimming up the stock springs. Nice job on the vid too.
:-)