That's One "SALTY" Regulator
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ก.ค. 2020
- That's One "SALTY" Regulator
• That's One "SALTY" Reg...
Keeping your equipment cleaned after every single dive can not only prolong the life of it, it can also save your life by making sure it is always in proper working order. In this video, Instructor Trainer Bryan Stafford shows us his personal Sidemount Regulator System, and just how much salt can accumulate after a week of diving in the ocean.
That's One "SALTY" Regulator
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love this you show even when you mess up.
Thanks DIVERS DOWN. We strive to make sure all divers can learn, especially, from our mistakes.
Can salt in the 1st stage, cause corrosion - such that the chrome flakes off - inside the 1st stage? I had salt in my 1st stage reg a few years ago - it was cleaned out - , and just last week (years later), chrome peeled off internally in the 1st stage, and travelled into my 2nd stage jamming it up and causing a free flow.
This is good lesson for you & everyone the lack of proper cleaning will result in this. Lesson learned.
I agree M GALLAGER. Complacency on my part caused this.
Great video Bryan. Thanks! What do you use for a cleaning solution in the ultrasonic cleaner?
Thanks Jeffrey Donnelly. I use a simple solution of white distilled vinegar and water. 50/50.
I just checked this video out and it got me to thinking. I've done over 30 dives since changing over to a BP&W late last year and never took the wing and backplate apart when cleaning them. Sure enough, tons of salt and what appears to be scoring on the backplate where it meets the bolt assemblies. It's aluminum so, not sure about that part. I've got the whole assembly soaking in hot water. I don't have any gear cleaner and we're leaving in a few days for a trip to Cozumel. Hope this works.
A mixture of White Distilled Vinegar and Water, works great as cleaner to get rid of corrosion.
@LakeHickoryScuba what kind of lubricant do you recommend when putting regs together or just putting around the threads of reg/o ring ? Thanks!
Hello Florida Mike, Cristolube is the industry standard. www.amazon.com/Christo-Lube-Scuba-Diving-Nitrox-Regulator/dp/B006G0PHOM/ref=sr_1_1?hvadid=583270992650&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9010198&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=7114201985134051511&hvtargid=kwd-337327928794&hydadcr=8113_11326894&keywords=christo-lube&qid=1681564591&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-1
Great video Brian. A question for you if I may: do you think that a regular scuba should be able (and actually should) clean the gear at such level? Or is this a task for a dive shop? Thank you appreciated, Michele.
You know as well as I do that there are people that are too dumb to handle a screwdriver, I think it depends on diver, I would do this, but I know people that dive for years and they still ask how to clean a regulator
Hey Jeff I found a stainless steel Scubapro dive knife and first stage piston regulator in a regulator bag under water . They have some surface rust on them… what do you suggest I use to start removing the surface rust off ? (By surface rust I mean brown/orange chunks on the surface of metal)
Hello Scuba Bro, we use a 50/50 blend of white vinegar and water in a ultra sonic cleaner to clean the regulators.
I have a question for you when you service a regulator do you check the depth gauge for accuracy? The shop I go to charges extra for that.
Hello Topmaul Scuba, this will differ from shop to shop. Typically, any time we service a Regulator set, we will replace the O-rings in the pressure gauge, but rarely do we test for accuracy unless the customer specifically ask us to.
Cant be lazy when it comes to cleaning your gear after a dive, especially in salt water. If I'm diving fresh water the longest I'd wait between cleaning my gear is two weeks if I'm lazy. I live in Toronto by Lake Ontario so alot of fresh water for me. Usually I try to rinse and dry my gear after each dive but If know I'm diving within two weeks should be ok but can be a little smelly. Lol. Great video!
I agree Derek Wilson. The biggest issue I have is, I dive 7 days a week. Most of the time, my equipment never has time to dry out.
@@LakeHickoryScuba Wow, 7 days of the week! Sounds like your living your best life bro!
Hey Bryan, do you think that some of this could be a reaction between the dissimilar metals accelerated by the saltwater? I believe I had the exact same problem which I blamed on the aluminum din cap. Never had the problem before using aluminum and have not had it again since switching back to delrin caps.
Yes a problem with Dins
It’s electrolysis, salt will accelerate the process , using non metallic DIN cap will prevent it.
@@tankmonkey7753 you missed the point
iamdrambuie please explain what point I missed, he asked if it was a result of dissimilar metals (electrolysis) was accelerated by saltwater (it does)
@@tankmonkey7753 but it's a plastic cover. So electrolysis isn't involved.
Do you have to put a dust cap on a din tank valve? I always assumed that if you didn't water would get in the valve.
Dust Caps on valves, whether it is DIN or YOKE, is all a personal choice. In reality, we use them as an indicator as to which tanks we have been filled, and which ones need to be filled. As far as getting water into a DIN valve with a cap in it, you would need to be near water, and most likely submerge the cylinder to get water in it.
Scuba Steve and Underwater Rock Climbing. Its also protects the screw thread against impact if the thread is damaged, you can also damage the thread of the tap. prevention is better than cure
So, if you’re supposed to keep it capped while cleaning to keep water out of the sintered filter how are you supposed o clean the threads regularly?
Typically, I will use a tooth brush and a microfiber cloth. Simply, scrub the threads, then wipe them off. Simple, yet, effective.
Bryan, EXCELLENT content as always! I service regs for my local dive shop and occasionaly run into the reg from Hades that has been exposed to multiple saltwater dives and unforgiving lapses in maintenance schedules..although I am confident you have witnessed this more than us all combined! In your comments, you reference a 50/50 vinegar-water solution for the ultrasonic bath. Have you ever encountered saltwater corrosion/accumulation that was unresponsive to this solution? If so, please would you describe what cleaning solution or method(s) you have found to resolve said presentation? Is there a commercially available cleaning solution you would recommend that you have proven more effective than the 50/50 mix? Along these lines, any lessons you learned the hard way that one should avoid or made the service easier? Thanks, as always, for providing such great resources for the scuba community!
Hello A. White, Great question. Another great solution mix is Simple Green and Water, 50/50 (We use the same solution for O2 cleaning cylinders as well). Vinegar is always my go to, as its cheaper and least likely to damage the coatings on regulators. I will state this, once corrosion gets to a certain point, it will eat through the coating on a brass regulator, beyond repair. Doesn't mean the regulator is ruined, but cosmetically, it will never be the same. This can cause issues internally though, especially in the intermediate chamber. I have had customers bring me regulators that could not be opened or disassembled without a heat source to break them free. Once it gets to that point, we typically charge more for the service (a lot more---------a whole lot more------sometimes enough that its cheaper to buy a new regulator). This usually involves having the customer come in and we have a little chat with them. We show them the regulator's condition, and we explain the extra cost to them. We give them several options, from simple repair, to the extreme of purchasing a new regulator. Truth be told, as a business owner / service technician, we have to decide at what point do we start to lose money on service. The more time spent on repairs, the less we make, obviously. But we also have to look at it from a liability standpoint. Once we start using methods outside of what the manufacture trains us in, to disassemble a regulator, do we fall into the rabbit hole of voiding the warranty of the regulator. If we do, at that point we become completely liable for that diver's regulator. This is only occurred just a small handful of times with me as a technician. One incident, the customer sucked it up and bought a new regulator. I even taught him an Equipment Techniques Course for free and taught him the proper way to clean his regulator so he would never be in that situation again. Another incident, the customer got very upset with me and left screaming and cussing. After taking it to several other shops, he came back and apologized, as none of the other shops would touch it. Then he even asked for a discount on purchasing a new regulator, LOL. The biggest key to keeping a regulator from getting this bad, is simply cleaning it with freshwater after every dive. If any signs of corrosion are observed, then immediately taking care of it is crucial. Once they get so bad, well, trash it and get a new one.
@@LakeHickoryScuba Thank you so very much for the expeditious reply, my friend!
I truly appreciate the time and effort you put into responding to this inquiry! It’s speaks volumes of your character and your commitment to excellence in all you do! Keep up the great work!
Interestingly, I had previously considered the Simple Green route primarily because of concerns for the low pH of vinegar compromising the metal finish. Based on your feedback, however, it sounds like (S.G.) would have had the opposite effect of intended and could potentially be more unforgiving than the vinegar solution.
Thank you so very much for your wise counsel and great resource!
Bryan, you can get basket for your ultrasonic cleaner, so you don’t have to reach into the hot water. Search amazon for a iSonic PB4820A. Costs about $15.
Hello Team Peg Leg, ours actually has one in the bottom of it, I just rarely use it. Its the stubbornness in me. LOL
Could you do a video on how to clean the inside of a Steele cylinder
I'd imagine you blast it with water mixed with some form of grit. Or some kind of acidic cleaner
You use an tank tumbler some proper hard abrasive gravel and water and you set it on a timer grab a beer and let that tank spin for 10 - 30 minutes depending on the rust etc !
Hello Jonathan Stanfield, we would be happy to make one. There are two types of cleaning. The first is O2 Cleaning, and the second is tumbling. I will see what we can get made for you.
Brian, what would this cost as a customer.... I have regs that havent been serviced in more than 18 years and they are probably full of salt
Hello Steven Rogers, our repair and service fees are pretty consistent with other repair centers here in our area. $35 a stage plus parts, unless the regulator was purchased from us, then the parts are free for life. In a situation like this where extra clean is required, then it is $50 per stage.
I do my own maintenance/builds on everything in my life. Is it completely farfetched that I can't learn how to service my own Regs / BCD. I think the only difficulty would be getting the parts.
I'd like to service my own regs too.
Hello kirbythebamf, there are several manufactures that will offer a class to learn how to rebuild regulators. Most operate in the same manner, the biggest thing is making sure you use the right tools for the job. Also, a lot of the major brands are offering direct sales on parts now.
Good reminder to use remaining tank pressure after the dive to blow out the plastics Delrin dust caps and the threads of your din regulator before capping off. As you already stated post dive clean up is where it’s at. Seems like an achilles’ heel for most of us myself included even as OCD as I get there are time I just don’t take as much time to do a full post dive cleaning as thorough as I’d like each time.
Great video content keep up the great work and happy diving!
Cheers, #SeattleRingHunter
Thanks Jeff Morgan.
small tip if you blow your stuff dry do it through a towel then you do not spread the moisture on your other parts.
Great tip Ronald Wolfers. Thanks.
I think you are giving the impression that the salt was in the 1st stage? You could also just cover the opening with your finger and run warm water maybe brush a little and solve it that way too. The real issue is what folks 2nds look like. I know your regs were do ...but a full rebuild is a little overkill?
Hello Mars Brownsen, typically a cleaning is all it would have needed.
Salt is a b#tch. :D People tend to forget BCD's though, i got one 2nd hand, connected the inflator, pressed the button, and sssshhhh, it got stuck. Luckily not underwater, i test and clean everything before using, lube the seals, etc.
This one had 3mm salt crystals inside, some rust on the springs, and small stones. A faulty BCD like this can get someone killed too, shoot up from 30m.
All very true. I have seen several divers have malfunctions with their inflators, all cause by salt build up.
You contaminated your rinse water by dipping your cleaning brush into the clean rinse water.
This is true.