I have never made a TH-cam comment, but this video deserves absolute praise! Now, I only wish I watched this BEFORE I built my 1/700 Oliver Hazard Perry mast. Work in sections. Why didn’t I think of that 😩 Thank you for the great tips 👍👏
Superb tutorial, I am about to build my first 1/700 ship and this was just what I need. I really did not have a clue how I would tackle railings so thank you for the great tips and enjoyable presentation.
Really nice video, thanks for posting it. A good substitute for dowels are drill bits. With a good set of bits you'll have almost every size circle accounted for. One trick I use with glue {doesn't matter what type} is to gently place the piece with the glue on it on a piece of paper for a second {more or less, you'll get the feel for it} and that soaks up extra glue but leaves a nice coating to form a bond yet doesn't leave any blobs behind.
Some people just have that certain something to be an instructor and you my friend have it. I really appreciate you taking your time to make and post these videos.
You, Sir are an excellent teacher. Clear, consise and very understandable. I am about to apply PE railings to my first 1/350 scale ship and the railing puzzle is no longer a problem. TY so much for posting.
Easily the best tutorial I’ve seen on this subject. Demonstrating on a 1/700 ship model is very impressive. Thank you for the time and effort that went into this.
You make it look so easy, but I've tried putting railings in ships before, and it's a pig of a job requiring the patients of a saint, the hands of a surgeon, and the eyes of a hawk. Fascinating video! :O)
Thanks for the good advice! I do a lot of what you do, I use bottle caps instead of an ashtray for the glue, and I do use the cut off pins. The piece of foam is a great Idea I hadn't thought of, I'll have to get some!
Thanks for posting, I shelved the 1/350 Fletcher I was working on because I couldn't figure out how to do the railings. I'll be getting it back down soon. My hat's off to those of you who can work 1/700 scale ships!
Thanks so much for this video. I started modeling in 1965 and built my last model in 1976. the hobby has grown up considerably since I was modelling. I'm returning to the hobby, now and am so excited to see kits have also grown up. PE? Didn't even exist when I was modelling. I'm so glad the precision has gotten tighter and that detail has become so much easier to add. One question, though: Do you ever use surgical glasses? 2.5X and 3 to 3.5X are very good for working with small parts. I used to use them when I built jet engines, as some parts can be very small (leaf seals, etc.) I'm getting back into the hobby, now and plan to use them, especially when I dive into this PE world. Thanks for all your tutorials. I'm seriously looking forward to getting back into the hobby. -Oh, and it's cool that you're a fan of Yorktown class carriers.
You, sir, are a genius, but also crazy lol. I would not even attempt that at 1/700 scale. I just about finished IJN Hyuga in 1/700th and I was going crazy with just the kit parts. Far too small. That was my last in that scale. 1/350th or nothing from now on.
Great demonstration. I wondered how to join adjacent straight sections together. Do you clip off stanchions to avoid "double" stanchion joins? If so, do you apply glue to the free ends of the rails? When making a 90 degree bend, do you cut the rail so that a stanchion will be at the apex?
sir, can I say your instruction is very well presented and easy to follow. Thank you very much for sharing this video. Moving from larger scales to 1/350 is ominous due to the bijoux nature of the etch (I think as you get older ships become more appealing due to their beauty and historical significance (and our boss wives don't want tanks and cars in the dining room anymore)) and I find your video and explanation and methodology very acceptable. Please do not in anyway find this next comment negatively critical in any way as it actually means the exact opposite, but more close - up and clear definition with your recording device would greatly appreciated. I am very much appreciative of your tips and tricks, and value your personal approach to your opinion on best procedure. A better camera would be better for you... no I lie! A better camera would be better for me and everyone else who appreciates your skills and instruction in modeling!
Thanks for your candor, Chris. I've gradually upgraded my camera rig bit by bit over time, but I know that what I'm using right now isn't ideal (Microsoft Surface Tablet). I shoot videos so infrequently, though, that I haven't gotten the drive to invest in a really good rig yet. One day I will, though. Until then, I'm going to keep experimenting with lighting and backdrop to make the most of what I've got. Again, thanks for writing!
Old video but still very useful! If there is a very long but relatively straight section of railing, such as along the main deck of the ship, I assume you still want to break that up and do smaller sections at a time?
Was the PE standing on the deck, or attached to the side of the deck. When I attempt PE rails, I have trouble getting them to stand up, and end up putting a bend to keep it upright. I use the same glues, but the Locktite does not set in 10 seconds for me; so I have to keep them perpendicular with fingers that are NOT rock steady!
Thank you for this tutorial.The sewing needles applicator is brilliant. So glad you mentioned doing the rails in sections. You probably saved me many hours of frustration. I see the importance of having good shears for PE. I would to order the Xuron shear you have but looking online, there are many models. Can you please advise me.
I have the 1/350 minicraft titanic that came with photo etched peices and I've been attempting to attach the railings for 3 days now. Every time I walk out of the room they fall off. I haven't made any progress and I'm this close to not adding railings at all
great tutorial, I'd really like to see you masking and spraying the model, with the etch in place , as there are lots of opposing views on how best to do this, id like to see your technique :-)
Ok, this video is great, but it has convinced me that PE is way beyond my skill and patience level, so despite losing detail, I have decided against PE. I will instead focus on making a quality build and painting.
What are these dowels? If i use the Google Translation it tells me that these are the things you put into a drilled whole in a wall to secure screws. But those dowels are made of plastic, not metal.
One question: with older (or smaller) kits there are the plastic overscaled railing, which you replace with this phoetched parts right? In order to do this, do i have to cut all the plastic railings and sand before glue the photoetch parts? Thank you from a novice :)
95 times out of 100, I paint it once it's in place. I find that paint adheres to PE quite poorly, so placing it after painting only creates the need for touch up. If you're going to have to paint it on the model anyways, might as well only do it once.
I have never made a TH-cam comment, but this video deserves absolute praise! Now, I only wish I watched this BEFORE I built my 1/700 Oliver Hazard Perry mast.
Work in sections. Why didn’t I think of that 😩
Thank you for the great tips 👍👏
Thanks for the tutorial. I've been modelling for a long time, and I still picked up a few new tricks. Good Job!
Superb tutorial, I am about to build my first 1/700 ship and this was just what I need. I really did not have a clue how I would tackle railings so thank you for the great tips and enjoyable presentation.
Really nice video, thanks for posting it. A good substitute for dowels are drill bits. With a good set of bits you'll have almost every size circle accounted for.
One trick I use with glue {doesn't matter what type} is to gently place the piece with the glue on it on a piece of paper for a second {more or less, you'll get the feel for it} and that soaks up extra glue but leaves a nice coating to form a bond yet doesn't leave any blobs behind.
Thank you for the great Tutorial. I am about to tackle some railing myself.
Some people just have that certain something to be an instructor and you my friend have it. I really appreciate you taking your time to make and post these videos.
You, Sir are an excellent teacher. Clear, consise and very understandable. I am about to apply PE railings to my first 1/350 scale ship and the railing puzzle is no longer a problem. TY so much for posting.
What a great sentiment! I'm glad that I was able to help!
Easily the best tutorial I’ve seen on this subject. Demonstrating on a 1/700 ship model is very impressive. Thank you for the time and effort that went into this.
You make it look so easy, but I've tried putting railings in ships before, and it's a pig of a job requiring the patients of a saint, the hands of a surgeon, and the eyes of a hawk.
Fascinating video! :O)
Tell me about it. I've been fighting with my kit for days and haven't made any progress whatsoever
Fantastic tutorial! Your tips and techniques will be a great help to me.
Thanks for the good advice! I do a lot of what you do, I use bottle caps instead of an ashtray for the glue, and I do use the cut off pins. The piece of foam is a great Idea I hadn't thought of, I'll have to get some!
Picked up some good tips, thanks
Thanks for posting, I shelved the 1/350 Fletcher I was working on because I couldn't figure out how to do the railings. I'll be getting it back down soon. My hat's off to those of you who can work 1/700 scale ships!
Absolutely grand tutorial many thanks
About to fit my first railings to a HMS Belfast, this is a great help thank you.
Excellent overview and techniques here for overcoming fears and challenges in this scale
Your advice prepare me for my uss texas my friend... thanks so much..
Great guide, thanks for sharing!
Thank you for your excellent tutorial. I feel much more confident in trying out PE rails on my 1/700 ships.
Nice video! You're the best!! I've just bougth the Revell 1/700 Titanic also Tom's Modelworks PE and Hunter Wood deck. Wish me luck!
6 years later watching this, all l can think of is Clint’s, ‘a man has got to know his limitations’.
Drill bits and a sponge buffing stick make a perfect PE roller.
Great video, I'll be using your method on my next ship in 1/350 scale. Than you for sharing.
Thanks so much for this video. I started modeling in 1965 and built my last model in 1976. the hobby has grown up considerably since I was modelling. I'm returning to the hobby, now and am so excited to see kits have also grown up. PE? Didn't even exist when I was modelling. I'm so glad the precision has gotten tighter and that detail has become so much easier to add. One question, though: Do you ever use surgical glasses? 2.5X and 3 to 3.5X are very good for working with small parts. I used to use them when I built jet engines, as some parts can be very small (leaf seals, etc.) I'm getting back into the hobby, now and plan to use them, especially when I dive into this PE world. Thanks for all your tutorials. I'm seriously looking forward to getting back into the hobby. -Oh, and it's cool that you're a fan of Yorktown class carriers.
Great video, some good tips there!! Thanks!!!
Very nice, just getting back to modeling. WWII ships, working on a Revell USS Saratoga CV3.
Well designed "how too" session. Thanks!
You, sir, are a genius, but also crazy lol. I would not even attempt that at 1/700 scale. I just about finished IJN Hyuga in 1/700th and I was going crazy with just the kit parts. Far too small. That was my last in that scale. 1/350th or nothing from now on.
Great demonstration. I wondered how to join adjacent straight sections together. Do you clip off stanchions to avoid "double" stanchion joins? If so, do you apply glue to the free ends of the rails? When making a 90 degree bend, do you cut the rail so that a stanchion will be at the apex?
sir, can I say your instruction is very well presented and easy to follow. Thank you very much for sharing this video. Moving from larger scales to 1/350 is ominous due to the bijoux nature of the etch (I think as you get older ships become more appealing due to their beauty and historical significance (and our boss wives don't want tanks and cars in the dining room anymore)) and I find your video and explanation and methodology very acceptable. Please do not in anyway find this next comment negatively critical in any way as it actually means the exact opposite, but more close - up and clear definition with your recording device would greatly appreciated. I am very much appreciative of your tips and tricks, and value your personal approach to your opinion on best procedure. A better camera would be better for you... no I lie! A better camera would be better for me and everyone else who appreciates your skills and instruction in modeling!
Sincerley, Driffield
Thanks for your candor, Chris. I've gradually upgraded my camera rig bit by bit over time, but I know that what I'm using right now isn't ideal (Microsoft Surface Tablet). I shoot videos so infrequently, though, that I haven't gotten the drive to invest in a really good rig yet. One day I will, though. Until then, I'm going to keep experimenting with lighting and backdrop to make the most of what I've got. Again, thanks for writing!
Thanks for posting...great technique.
thanks for your work... saving this vid for near future use
Old video but still very useful! If there is a very long but relatively straight section of railing, such as along the main deck of the ship, I assume you still want to break that up and do smaller sections at a time?
Great vid, really useful reference.
Al
nice tips... i have some silver metal ones.. so that is not brass...im guessing stainless steel? do i have to prep that for paint? tks
Was the PE standing on the deck, or attached to the side of the deck. When I attempt PE rails, I have trouble getting them to stand up, and end up putting a bend to keep it upright. I use the same glues, but the Locktite does not set in 10 seconds for me; so I have to keep them perpendicular with fingers that are NOT rock steady!
Thank you for this tutorial.The sewing needles applicator is brilliant. So glad you mentioned doing the rails in sections. You probably saved me many hours of frustration. I see the importance of having good shears for PE. I would to order the Xuron shear you have but looking online, there are many models. Can you please advise me.
I have the 1/350 minicraft titanic that came with photo etched peices and I've been attempting to attach the railings for 3 days now. Every time I walk out of the room they fall off. I haven't made any progress and I'm this close to not adding railings at all
great tutorial, I'd really like to see you masking and spraying the model, with the etch in place , as there are lots of opposing views on how best to do this, id like to see your technique :-)
It's now early 2024 and Gator's Grip and the sms006 are basicaly gone off the market. What is everyone using to replace these items?
Ok, this video is great, but it has convinced me that PE is way beyond my skill and patience level, so despite losing detail, I have decided against PE. I will instead focus on making a quality build and painting.
Any advice on prepping the pe before use? Annealing, priming, that sort of thing?
What are these dowels? If i use the Google Translation it tells me that these are the things you put into a drilled whole in a wall to secure screws. But those dowels are made of plastic, not metal.
great video
One question: with older (or smaller) kits there are the plastic overscaled railing, which you replace with this phoetched parts right? In order to do this, do i have to cut all the plastic railings and sand before glue the photoetch parts? Thank you from a novice :)
Yup. It's tedious, I know, but that's how it's done.
One quick question, If you have to paint the photo etch, should you paint it seperately before you cut it out or after you have glued it in place?
95 times out of 100, I paint it once it's in place. I find that paint adheres to PE quite poorly, so placing it after painting only creates the need for touch up. If you're going to have to paint it on the model anyways, might as well only do it once.
Impressive but the scale makes the PE ridiculously small and hard to work with. I would have to go with somthing larger
I don't get what that piece of plastic on the popsicle stick is or where it is from??
He mentioned that it is a spare part of a 1/700 ship kit.
Where did you find those precision tweezers?
Just Google "Xuron photo etch".
Nice hat. Never should have scraped her.
Yeah.... 1/700 is just ridiculously small....
Mm