I would recommend adding the Groco flush adapter in line with the seacock. I flush the raw water side after every run (unless I’m going out back to back days I don’t bother). This extends the life of the risers/elbows by years and keeps the raw water side clean. Side benefit is it forces you to use the seacock regularly so it never needs a hammer to open/close.
Thank you, I was looking for a video on how to do this and came across yours, just so happens I have a 31 Tiara with twin 454 xli just like you. Please keep the videos coming!
Can 1 gallon reach all the raw water sections in this 7.5 crusader system? Other videos mix water and use 5 gallons. Is 1 strong gallon of maritime ultra enough?
1 gallon always I seemed to be fine for me. You could pump 2 gallons in but I wouldn't put much more than that, plus the stuff is expensive. When this stuff starts working it does kind of bubble up an expand.
Is it ok soaking up the entire system, including impellers, with descaler solution for several hours? No damage to impellers or any other rubber parts?
Great video. Would like to see more of them. Would be interesting to remove heat exchanger caps and show before and after pics. How freg do you do this? I read somewhere that the acid can damage the copper or aluminum?
I have a video on cleaning up the heat exchangers. It does show a before and after. This solution is not a full acid like muriatic acid so it's gentle on the metals and the rubber. Straight muriatic acid only needs to be in the exchangers for a short period of time like less than 5 minutes, that is what you will see in the heat exchanger video. Thanks for watching! Cheers!
I have a tiara 3100 and the transmission on the port side is running hot, I plan on using your technique to do as through flush as possible. I didnt see you pull the zincs, do you pull them during this process?
When my port trans (1997 Velvet Drive 5000 series) ran hot I ended up having to replace the trans pump that is on the back of the velvet drive transmission. There was a design flaw in the pump that had caused it to fail. Ran nice and cool after replacing the pump. It was the one of the more pricey fixes I had to do in the 17 years I had the boat. You may have a different trans. Good luck.
I don't know those engines so I'm not sure. I would assume that the exchangers are larger on the diesels than on the crusaders so I'd go with 2 gallons per engine. Good luck. Thanks for watching. Cheers!
I really like the video. Thank you. You did not remove the impeller (which for me a huge time-saver). Some people remove the impeller and/or they create a closed loop downstream from the strainer and the raw water pump. Some people add a Shurflo pump to conduct a 4-6 hour cycle in a closed loop system. That seems like overkill. It looks like you used the impeller as the pump for bringing Barnacle Buster to the loop. You sucked a bucket full of the solution into the system through the raw water impeller, then turned it off and let is sit for a period. Could this damage the impeller or other parts? Is it really just as good to do it the your simpler way?
Hello…I watched your video and plan to descale my engines. I have 8.1 HO Mercuiser’s. Will 1 gallon for each engine be enough descaler to circulate through the entire engine? Thank you, Walter ⚓️⚓️⚓️
Very informative video. May be you can help me make a decision on a boat that has crusader engines they are twin 6.0 375hp. Would you buy again a boat with crusader engines? Are parts easily available. Thanks for posting this video and will appreciate your help with a decision on crusader engines with which I have no experience.
For gasoline engines they are very good, I never had any major issues with mine. I put a thousand hours on the pair that I had and I'm in contact with the new owner and they are still running strong. However, diesels really are the best for boats over 35 ft. Thanks for watching! Cheers!
Just ran it to get the product into the heat exchanger and the elbows. You poor some in, run the engine for a few seconds, poor some more in, run the engine for a few seconds, etc.. until the gallon is in the system.
Been meaning to ask you. what temp do your gauges read after idling for several min. Mine are at about 175-180 on port and 170-175 on Starboard. are my numbers normal? i have the 8.1 EFI
I have a 170 degree thermostats. Both engines run at 170 at idle and a little under 175 at 3000 RPMs. When they started going above 175 and edging towards 180 i knew had some raw water restrictions of some sort so I would look at flushing the raw water system and checking the impellers. Now I just flush the raw water system once a year regardless.
Hey Bobby I have the 8.1’s in a 2004 3100 and just replaced the fresh and raw water cooling systems. We run at 160 at idle (with 170° thermostats) and a hair under 170 from 2800 rpm / 17/18kts all the way up to 3400rpm / 24kts. They don’t budge even at WOT / 4600rpm / 33kts. Prior to putting in the new cooling system she would idle at about 165 and 175-178 from 2800rpm all the way to WOT. while 178 is not excessive heat it’s an indication it’s time to clean or redo the cooling system. Most owners, including ourselves, will run the fresh water and raw water cooling systems (except the elbows) beyond 10 years, but it is recommended that the heat exchangers and exhaust manifolds are 10-year parts, and the trans/oil coolers 5 year parts. We are going to stick to the 10/5 schedule from here on out (we are at 1230 hours and still running close to new condition). Our mechanic was the Crusader installing dealer for Tiara going back to when VenWest Yachts was bringing in all the Tiaras to Newport and surrounding areas. It is his recommendation to stick as close to the 10/5 year schedules as possible even if there are no signs of a need for parts replacement. Better to be proactive with expensive machinery than wait until there’s a problem. BTW he owns his own 3100 with twin 454’s, he’s owned that boat for 25 years and still going strong with a ton of hours. Hope this helps you.
Bobby Medina Hey Bobby I have the 8.1’s in a 2004 3100 and just replaced the fresh and raw water cooling systems. We run at 160 at idle (with 170° thermostats) and a hair under 170 from 2800 rpm / 17/18kts all the way up to 3400rpm / 24kts. They don’t budge even at WOT / 4600rpm / 33kts. Prior to putting in the new cooling system she would idle at about 165 and 175-178 from 2800rpm all the way to WOT. while 178 is not excessive heat it’s an indication it’s time to clean or redo the cooling system. Most owners, including ourselves, will run the fresh water and raw water cooling systems (except the elbows) beyond 10 years, but it is recommended that the heat exchanger, exhaust manifolds (fresh water cooled are 10-year parts, and the trans/oil coolers 5 year parts. We are going to stick to the 10/5 schedule from here on out (we are at 1230 hours and still running close to new condition). Our mechanic was the Crusader installing dealer for Tiara going all the way back to when VenWest Yachts was bringing in all the Tiaras to Newport and surrounding areas. It is his recommendation to stick as close to the 10/5 year schedules as possible even if there are no signs of a need for parts replacement. Better to be proactive with expensive machinery than wait until there’s a problem. Hope this helps you.
As long as you have a way of thoroughly rinsing the descaler out after 3 to 4 hours then I see no reason that you could not do it on the hard. But also there is no real reason to do it on the hard I would just wait until the boat is in the water.
I would recommend adding the Groco flush adapter in line with the seacock. I flush the raw water side after every run (unless I’m going out back to back days I don’t bother). This extends the life of the risers/elbows by years and keeps the raw water side clean. Side benefit is it forces you to use the seacock regularly so it never needs a hammer to open/close.
I shop at that Captains locker every weekend, well Saturdays because they don't like to make money on Sundays apparently.
This video was alot of help, thanks buddy 👍🏼
Thank you, I was looking for a video on how to do this and came across yours, just so happens I have a 31 Tiara with twin 454 xli just like you. Please keep the videos coming!
Very informative
Thank you, I like your videos, very informative.
Thank you for your videos! they have helped me a lot with my Tiara. Keep em coming!
Thank you sir, Very very informative to me :)
Great vid!
Thanks for the great video. Well done, Ron
If your boat was in Huntington harbor you would have sea grass build up in the strainers check your zincs in your heat exchangers
Can 1 gallon reach all the raw water sections in this 7.5 crusader system? Other videos mix water and use 5 gallons. Is 1 strong gallon of maritime ultra enough?
1 gallon always I seemed to be fine for me. You could pump 2 gallons in but I wouldn't put much more than that, plus the stuff is expensive. When this stuff starts working it does kind of bubble up an expand.
I have a Tiara 29 with 454 XL Crusaders. I assume the one gallon per engine should be the same for me? I like your videos.
Yes should be fine. Thanks for watching. Cheers!
Is it ok soaking up the entire system, including impellers, with descaler solution for several hours?
No damage to impellers or any other rubber parts?
Yes this solution will not harm rubber.
Great video. Would like to see more of them. Would be interesting to remove heat exchanger caps and show before and after pics. How freg do you do this? I read somewhere that the acid can damage the copper or aluminum?
I have a video on cleaning up the heat exchangers. It does show a before and after. This solution is not a full acid like muriatic acid so it's gentle on the metals and the rubber. Straight muriatic acid only needs to be in the exchangers for a short period of time like less than 5 minutes, that is what you will see in the heat exchanger video. Thanks for watching! Cheers!
I have a tiara 3100 and the transmission on the port side is running hot, I plan on using your technique to do as through flush as possible. I didnt see you pull the zincs, do you pull them during this process?
When my port trans (1997 Velvet Drive 5000 series) ran hot I ended up having to replace the trans pump that is on the back of the velvet drive transmission. There was a design flaw in the pump that had caused it to fail. Ran nice and cool after replacing the pump. It was the one of the more pricey fixes I had to do in the 17 years I had the boat. You may have a different trans. Good luck.
I wanted to try your procedure on my 480 Sea Ray Sundancer that has 2 Detroit Diesels, 750 HP. Will 1 gallon be enough? Any other tips?
I don't know those engines so I'm not sure. I would assume that the exchangers are larger on the diesels than on the crusaders so I'd go with 2 gallons per engine. Good luck. Thanks for watching. Cheers!
I really like the video. Thank you. You did not remove the impeller (which for me a huge time-saver). Some people remove the impeller and/or they create a closed loop downstream from the strainer and the raw water pump. Some people add a Shurflo pump to conduct a 4-6 hour cycle in a closed loop system. That seems like overkill. It looks like you used the impeller as the pump for bringing Barnacle Buster to the loop. You sucked a bucket full of the solution into the system through the raw water impeller, then turned it off and let is sit for a period. Could this damage the impeller or other parts? Is it really just as good to do it the your simpler way?
I had never had any damage to the impeller after doing this process. Thanks for watching! Cheers!
Hello…I watched your video and plan to descale my engines. I have 8.1 HO Mercuiser’s. Will 1 gallon for each engine be enough descaler to circulate through the entire engine?
Thank you,
Walter ⚓️⚓️⚓️
The raw water section of the cooling system doesn't take a lot of descaler so it should be fine.
How long to run engine to pump gallon through to exchanger? 2 seconds per half gallon full of funnel ?
No answer. I had the same question.
thanks 😊
Very informative video. May be you can help me make a decision on a boat that has crusader engines they are twin 6.0 375hp. Would you buy again a boat with crusader engines? Are parts easily available. Thanks for posting this video and will appreciate your help with a decision on crusader engines with which I have no experience.
For gasoline engines they are very good, I never had any major issues with mine. I put a thousand hours on the pair that I had and I'm in contact with the new owner and they are still running strong. However, diesels really are the best for boats over 35 ft. Thanks for watching! Cheers!
Can i use gallon of condensed barnacle buster instead of maritime extra ultra?
BFH: I still don’t get how your Backyard Faucet Holder helped you with this...?
Helped me close the raw water inlet valves and get the tops off of the sea strainers. Thanks for watching!
Have you tried the barnacle buster?
So u just put in the gallon but did not add any garden hose water? Also, after u added the gallon how long did u run it for?
Just ran it to get the product into the heat exchanger and the elbows. You poor some in, run the engine for a few seconds, poor some more in, run the engine for a few seconds, etc.. until the gallon is in the system.
Been meaning to ask you. what temp do your gauges read after idling for several min. Mine are at about 175-180 on port and 170-175 on Starboard. are my numbers normal? i have the 8.1 EFI
I have a 170 degree thermostats. Both engines run at 170 at idle and a little under 175 at 3000 RPMs. When they started going above 175 and edging towards 180 i knew had some raw water restrictions of some sort so I would look at flushing the raw water system and checking the impellers. Now I just flush the raw water system once a year regardless.
Boat & Dive that’s what I’m going to do this weekend! Thank you for the reply. I’ll update you when it’s done.
Hey Bobby I have the 8.1’s in a 2004 3100 and just replaced the fresh and raw water cooling systems. We run at 160 at idle (with 170° thermostats) and a hair under 170 from 2800 rpm / 17/18kts all the way up to 3400rpm / 24kts. They don’t budge even at WOT / 4600rpm / 33kts. Prior to putting in the new cooling system she would idle at about 165 and 175-178 from 2800rpm all the way to WOT. while 178 is not excessive heat it’s an indication it’s time to clean or redo the cooling system. Most owners, including ourselves, will run the fresh water and raw water cooling systems (except the elbows) beyond 10 years, but it is recommended that the heat exchangers and exhaust manifolds are 10-year parts, and the trans/oil coolers 5 year parts. We are going to stick to the 10/5 schedule from here on out (we are at 1230 hours and still running close to new condition). Our mechanic was the Crusader installing dealer for Tiara going back to when VenWest Yachts was bringing in all the Tiaras to Newport and surrounding areas. It is his recommendation to stick as close to the 10/5 year schedules as possible even if there are no signs of a need for parts replacement. Better to be proactive with expensive machinery than wait until there’s a problem. BTW he owns his own 3100 with twin 454’s, he’s owned that boat for 25 years and still going strong with a ton of hours. Hope this helps you.
Bobby Medina Hey Bobby I have the 8.1’s in a 2004 3100 and just replaced the fresh and raw water cooling systems. We run at 160 at idle (with 170° thermostats) and a hair under 170 from 2800 rpm / 17/18kts all the way up to 3400rpm / 24kts. They don’t budge even at WOT / 4600rpm / 33kts. Prior to putting in the new cooling system she would idle at about 165 and 175-178 from 2800rpm all the way to WOT. while 178 is not excessive heat it’s an indication it’s time to clean or redo the cooling system. Most owners, including ourselves, will run the fresh water and raw water cooling systems (except the elbows) beyond 10 years, but it is recommended that the heat exchanger, exhaust manifolds (fresh water cooled are 10-year parts, and the trans/oil coolers 5 year parts. We are going to stick to the 10/5 schedule from here on out (we are at 1230 hours and still running close to new condition). Our mechanic was the Crusader installing dealer for Tiara going all the way back to when VenWest Yachts was bringing in all the Tiaras to Newport and surrounding areas. It is his recommendation to stick as close to the 10/5 year schedules as possible even if there are no signs of a need for parts replacement. Better to be proactive with expensive machinery than wait until there’s a problem. Hope this helps you.
Muratic acid and vinegar
Question:. Can I do this if my boat is on the hard? Is 4 hours the max time to leave descaler in the system? Thanks
As long as you have a way of thoroughly rinsing the descaler out after 3 to 4 hours then I see no reason that you could not do it on the hard. But also there is no real reason to do it on the hard I would just wait until the boat is in the water.
Thanks for watching!
@@tiaramisu Thank you! It is going in the water next week just trying to all I can ahead of time.
Seacock
6
Aside from the chemical pollution to marine life! It was useful.
U never show, speak on what u did with bottled water.
Va
NO DUMPING ...into any water body, fresh or salt water... ever read your signs? Every check the fine amount?