That rear bearing was replaced before, the rear bearing should be preferably without covers allowing oil to lubricate better camshaft gears, cams, cam followers etc; usually the front bearing comes with metal covers that works fine but i prefer to use double rubber seal in front. For example 6002 ZZ the suffix ZZ means double metal cover (i took they off for internal modelo engine aplications) and for the front i prefer 6000 2RS that means double rubber seal i like it most because the grease inside is sealed to prevent dust or humidity to enter and contaminate reducing the bearing life, that worked for me. Hope this helps in the future
That does make me wonder... I dunno if I could see OS releasing this engine with sealed rear bearings... So yeah perhaps they were replaced at one time after the stock ones.
@@perkyplanesrc9363 i never saw rubber sealed bearings in any OS engine specially on internal bearings, very few with metal covers and in the front only with one metal cover, the only engines i remember with rubber seals and only at the front from factory was saito.
When you remove bearings you do NOT want the heat on the bearing. You want the heat on the motor block. Heating the bearing makes it get tighter with expansion. Also if you are struggling with removals.. Heat the block up.. let cool. to room temp. Ice or use a spray to cool the bearing to make it shrink. Let stand to room temp and repeat. That expansion and contraction of separate parts should break free any corrosion from dissimilar metals. Last I would use PB blast rather than three in one. Again allowing time for it to do its thing.
Thanks for the tips... Sometimes I do pop it in the oven to heat the whole block up. Haven't tried the ice/cool approach though. Ya know I have some PB Blaster but haven't even used it yet. I've got quite the collection now .. 3in1, after run oil, PB Blaster, Brake Cleaner, and Marvell Mystery Oil.
That rear bearing was replaced before, the rear bearing should be preferably without covers allowing oil to lubricate better camshaft gears, cams, cam followers etc; usually the front bearing comes with metal covers that works fine but i prefer to use double rubber seal in front. For example 6002 ZZ the suffix ZZ means double metal cover (i took they off for internal modelo engine aplications) and for the front i prefer 6000 2RS that means double rubber seal i like it most because the grease inside is sealed to prevent dust or humidity to enter and contaminate reducing the bearing life, that worked for me. Hope this helps in the future
That does make me wonder... I dunno if I could see OS releasing this engine with sealed rear bearings... So yeah perhaps they were replaced at one time after the stock ones.
@@perkyplanesrc9363 i never saw rubber sealed bearings in any OS engine specially on internal bearings, very few with metal covers and in the front only with one metal cover, the only engines i remember with rubber seals and only at the front from factory was saito.
When you remove bearings you do NOT want the heat on the bearing. You want the heat on the motor block. Heating the bearing makes it get tighter with expansion. Also if you are struggling with removals.. Heat the block up.. let cool. to room temp. Ice or use a spray to cool the bearing to make it shrink. Let stand to room temp and repeat. That expansion and contraction of separate parts should break free any corrosion from dissimilar metals. Last I would use PB blast rather than three in one. Again allowing time for it to do its thing.
Thanks for the tips... Sometimes I do pop it in the oven to heat the whole block up. Haven't tried the ice/cool approach though.
Ya know I have some PB Blaster but haven't even used it yet. I've got quite the collection now .. 3in1, after run oil, PB Blaster, Brake Cleaner, and Marvell Mystery Oil.
@@perkyplanesrc9363 hahah now all ya need is a match!!! 🤪