Glad you gave out the 50/50 warning because that is what I have been warning customers for years. Some iron castings will just not behave... no matter what precautions and careful post-weld treatment you adhere to. I regret having to tell people that especially when they have a vintage, difficult to find piece (exhaust manifold off granddaddy’s Farm All) and we’re obliged to make a quick (and correct) decision on a plan of attack and maybe, they have their own idea (often dubious) of how they want it done. “Yes, I can braze it and that will require extra careful cleaning, getting it red stinking hot and hours of careful cooling down. You might not be happy with the results, even then.”
The guy that showed me how to weld cast would weld about an inch, then let it completely cool before welding another inch or so. He once welded on submarines, so i think he knows his stuff
I'm curious as to how well this would work on a larger piece, like a cracked engine block, where both sides of the weld have no "give". I'd also like to know how strong the weld is. Like if you broke a piece of flat bar iron, welded it back together, and broke it again measuring how much pressure it takes to break it both times. Has there been any testing like this?
I been welding cast iron 12 years, all kinds and size, pre heat and cool off its the most important part of the work, I see the video with jay leno too... you should stay with inox and aluminium welds. I cry when the antique cast iron of jay leno start to crack... any way I learn so much of your other videos.
Question please: How about welding St52 (ASTM A572) steel with St275 (ASTM A529) steel successfully? Stick or mig or any particular method recommended? Thanks
Surely Not his shining point welding cast. Most people have no place doing it because it takes some special knowledge and temperance. I think this was just a shill mercial { secret commercial ] Wish these guys would just be honest about paid vids. Every time you hear a snap pop or crackle you are losing the battle
Wish I would have known about this filler years ago if it was available then. Could have saved so much time heating and brazing. Sure they held but,ugly and time consuming. Great video and a huge shout out to the guy who makes this filler !
pause between 11:02 to 11:05 and in the center of the video at the middle of the weld you can clearly see a crack forming. sorry but I'm not impressed. Thanks for the great videos. They're always informative.
It looks to straight to be a crack.i weld alot of cast a if it does crack it's normally on the side of the weld rather than in the centre of the weld.its shit temperamental stuff to weld
Ive had good luck using silicone bronze for cast repair. Cast anything is normally terrible to tig weld if all else fails, its back to the oxy fuel torch. Tried and true.
I like that flex head. I went through aluminum welding school a very rush course for certification. It was bullshit lol. You could weld one day a week later you were screwed. I loved to tig.
How to set dc- . .i have a piece of cast iron metal and i want to weld it using tig dc welding machine. I just want to know if its ok to weld it with aluminium filler wire.
cracking(probably just poor heat management). Also, one manifold I had I about had to keep the tiger torch on even while I was welding, this would've been way better. That just looked too slick to not have a couple rods just incase. I think I'll try a cover first when the snow melts and I can find it.
I noticed around the 11.04 to 11.05 time on video, after showing the bubble, when the camera focuses in you can see a hairline crack in the middle of the weld. Every time I use this filler and method I get the same result. I'll bet Wyatt couldn't see it while they were videoing because it was a really small crack, but when the close-up went in you can see it. Do you see it too?
Interesting. I have a base casting or foot casting on a 1943 English lath that is cracked. Don’t know what I will do. Braze it or weld it or try to cast a new one. The fracture zones are open and rusty. Do you think this might work.
due to its porosity I always preheat cast iron til it smokes... so any oils will burn off of it. im new to TIG, but ive always had success welding cast iron when stick welding, using either a ni-cad rod or MG600...
I am about to weld a cast iron engine block using this same filler material. The crack is actually external on the block and it is not cracked all the way through.
First piece I ever tried was a cast iron pan using a Monkey Wards AC buzz box and 7018. Prefheatet or not it cracked every time even when I tied to braze it. Very hard to do with my equipment.
Clink .... it's tough no matter how u do it. I'll stick to brazing it. As someone else mentioned. Pack it in some dry sand to tame down the heat loss ... thanks.
Thanks for this video. I would like to know concerning tthe tack welds. Do you think making a weld ball on the work end to prevent the metal from melting back at the end of the weld?
I have a Wilton 800 vise and there are chips by the top of the vise by corner of the bolt that goes into the jaws. how would I go about building it up? someone recommended blocking it off with thick plates of graphite but that process is too long and too expensive.
If they are just cosmetic damage I'd leave it alone, but if you want to build it up I suggest you contact Wilton to ask about the best filler for their particular alloy. Not enough people take advantage of manufacturer tech support. It's free.
Is there any follow-up as to the part, and further testing, or stress testing, just to see if or where it may crack ....? Great job on your videos... I have learned allot, now, if I can just stop the shaking of the hands...lol
You can hear it cracking while he's welding. This might be good enough for decorative work but i wouldn't trust it for anything i cared about. There's a reason people preheat cast. And after preheat, they usually braze it one way or another. Welding can work too but it's not usually the first choice.
Quick question. I know this video says you don't need preheat or post heat or anything like that when you use this filler but say I wanted to preheat the piece of cast iron I have and then stick it in some sand when I'm finished welding just for the hell of it. You think that would help or make things worse?
it would not make anything worse if at all it would help greatley. cast after heating it up to welding temp wich is high temp has to cool very slow slower the better. putting in sand is a good idea to help it cool slower. silicon bronze is a good cast iron choice on tig welding it.
I will first admit my lack of welding experience - at this point, all I have done is some reading. But I have read some about pulsed TIG welding, and that it is supposed to reduce the heat into the work. Would this be of any benefit in welding cast iron?
Hi I work for a Big food company and I have Tig weld ( Miller Dynasty 300DX water cooled torch with Speedway SW320 Torch & I use gas lenses ) on Supper Alloy 42 which is a series of cast iron with 42 % Nickel in it very ugly stuff to weld on have you ever heard of this stuff or welded on it my part is big & heavy 130lbs & very rust - I do sand blast the enter part to get rid of as much of the rust as possible would like to discuss this with you if possible. Thanks
On cast iron specifically, or on all metals? It could be a lot of things, but I’d say it’s usually a contamination issue. TIG requires extremely clean surfaces, tungsten, filler, and gas coverage. If any of those components are contaminated, your weld will pop and spatter, and blacken. So try cleaning all of your components, and make sure your gas coverage is good, including preflow. If that doesn’t solve it, double check your weld settings.
i have always heard that when welding cast iron just use stainless, 309, not 316 and not tig, use sticks, and hit it like a idiot with a hammer afterwards
Somebody while I was welding put metal can denatured alcohol same metal can on metal table it blew top off it glad I let up off pedal remember this to any welder metal can metal table part of your ground something will happen
So what i got out of this is: Dont use tig-due to heat, Preheat always helps, And Ni99 or use stainless, 309 stick rod..?? right? I'm sure Easy weld wire has its place ...
@@HenryTheBoilermaker3rdYear Yep sure can..I ended up using silicon bronze on a vice repair using tig ,preheated the crap out of it and worked it in the cracks .took a bit but it worked.covered it up with sand and let it cool down..customer was happy..It was work..and messy .. but i'd do it again. Peace
@moustachemike7128 I currently working on a cast iron bracket for customer. I'm welding on 5 mm cast iron plate with no success, getting all kinds of cracks even with pre heat. I'm using nickel chromium filler. Any advice? Might try out pulse mode. I'm preheating using my cooking top not oxy torch btw.
@@HenryTheBoilermaker3rdYear cast iron or cast steel?? ..ya just don't know whats in it You can spark test it and even then ? pretty thin stuff your working with what percent of nickel rod 55 or 99 .id try a different rod that more giving to shrinking on cooling also ya might not be hot enough just a thought... and cooing to fast.during the process.. there is some good cast brazing product on the street don't give up some thing will work.Keep looking on you tube at cast welders and see what works best i can tell ya,,good luck...
@moustachemike7128 update: I bought a cast iron pan just to practice on it. I preheat the hell out of it to over 400 Celsius then I weld with tig at 90 amps and I was no longer getting cracks. So preheating very hot is definitely very important when welding cast iron. Good thing I have a ir camera thermometer to tell me what temp I was on during preheating. That thing is a great tool in engineering heavy fab. Now I can work on my customers job with confidence.
Watching the video, I may have not been able to see the entire height of tank, but I noticed that the Argon tank with the cap removed and a Flowmeter attached, DIDN'T appear to have a safety chain going around the tank. Call me Mr. Safety or anything else you'd like, but anyone that has ever dealt with highly compressed gases SHOULD have better sense than to remove a cap from a tank and allow it to stand on it's own and be subjected to being bumped or knocked over accidently.
Mango, I have no idea if you were agreeing with my concern about the safety chain or just being sarcastic, but if you have ever seen what one of those tanks will do when knocked over and breaking off the valve can do, you'll appreciate having some sort of restraint around ANY highly compressed content of that type of tank that has the cap removed. I have seen what they are capable of a few times, one was when a newly hired person that was bringing in a fresh tank of oxygen on a cart that had the cap removed, the wheel of cart hit something on the floor causing the cart to be jerked out of his grasp tipping the tank over the edge of a welding table, knocked off the valve and it took off like a rocket, hitting a large Press Brake and knocked it 6 inches off the bed it was mounted on, the tank then glanced off the press brake and completely penetrated a brick wall and the only \thing that finally stopped the tank was a chain link fence of which it too, was mangled badly. I am not particularily fond of some of OSHA rules, but let any OSHA inspector walk into a place that has those types of tanks and NOT having some sort of cage or restraint around those that DOES NOT have a cap on them and that company will either pay a huge fine or in some cases I have seen the business SHUT DOWN until a cage was built and/or some type of restraint encompassing the tanks AND HAD ALL the caps PUT BACK on. So if you were being sarcastic, at least keep in mind of what I said, I have seen it with my own eyes of the damage that can be done by one and it was by the Grace of the Man above that no one was injured or killed either time.
Nortekj yeah brother i was being a little sarcastic lol i been studying worksafebc vids for too long and was a little pessimistic. its different on the screen then on the site or in the shop because theres a disconnect from all the danger. don't get me wrong i agree with you wholeheartedly and around high psi gasses i don't fuck around or even crack a smile. that kind of accident you described would've been a topic for one of these vids guaranteed…you are not in north america i assume?
Yes I am in the USA, I live in Kentucky not far from Cincinnati Ohio, and let me tell you, OSHA is really strict on safety here, even though their rules can be a hinderance at times and make things more difficult for people.
+Nortekj Do you know this guys resume? Really. If you look at some of his other videos you'll see a solid metal strap or ban around the tank. Go pick on the guys not using a throat shield!
Sorry but really amateurish. Welding with TIG rods that you don't know what's in there? The welds are presenting cracks, and blow holes, so if you need just that the two parts sticks together, that will do the job. Cast Iron welding: the do and dont's: 1) Avoid TIG weld, as the heat input is very high. The cracks are appearing because the weld has inherent stress when it cools down, and cast-iron is too rigid. Welding with TIG is slow, hence the whole part heats up more than it needs. 2) Use Stick electrode with high Nickel content. Expensive but really tough with 30-40% elongation (most use Negative on the electrode). Each brand has their own "special" cast-iron electrode. 3) Peening while it's hot, to reduce the stress in the weld. 4) When joining, get the most accurate fitting, avoid large gaps. 5) Don't go over 250 degC (500 F) 6) For those who have an oven and the part is not too large, preheat the whole part to 600 degC (1100F) and weld the whole thing without stopping, then back in oven, and slow cooling (very slow cooling) 7) Trick of the trade: Don't weld the whole joint with a root pass, then come back at the start to do the second/third pass. Weld one or two inches, then come back and forth , always peen while it's still hot.
What sort of alloying element is "trash"? With no AWS specification, I will pass. "4% Utechtanite" sounds dubious to me at best. An internet search on this word only points to their website or websites that reference their website. It sounds like "eutectic". I wonder if it is actually more of a brazing metal than a weld filler metal. PS: I looked up the safety data sheet and it consists of Aluminum and Iron oxide. It sounds like what is happening is that when it is heated up in the TIG process that the aluminum reduces the Iron oxide to Iron and that is what is deposited in the weld area, essentially pure iron which is quite ductile. The "trash" that you see floating up is probably Aluminum oxide from the reducing process.
Unless there's a compelling reason to avoid pre heat, I'm going to pre heat. With cast iron, that's going to reduce the possibility of cracking. I don't care what the welding product vendor says. Obviously, Mr. TIG Is advertising for profit, not giving reliable advice.I don't trust him.
Glad you gave out the 50/50 warning because that is what I have been warning customers for years. Some iron castings will just not behave... no matter what precautions and careful post-weld treatment you adhere to. I regret having to tell people that especially when they have a vintage, difficult to find piece (exhaust manifold off granddaddy’s Farm All) and we’re obliged to make a quick (and correct) decision on a plan of attack and maybe, they have their own idea (often dubious) of how they want it done. “Yes, I can braze it and that will require extra careful cleaning, getting it red stinking hot and hours of careful cooling down. You might not be happy with the results, even then.”
Dude.. your channel is one of the best i've ever seen on TH-cam. Really. Congratulations from all my heart.
This guy always has a steady hand unbelievable.
The guy that showed me how to weld cast would weld about an inch, then let it completely cool before welding another inch or so.
He once welded on submarines, so i think he knows his stuff
great wire I welded a engine block after a rod went through the side and its still running after 30k miles fantastic wire.... thanks mr tig
can can get this rod at ur local welding store
Is the motor still running?
I'm curious as to how well this would work on a larger piece, like a cracked engine block, where both sides of the weld have no "give". I'd also like to know how strong the weld is. Like if you broke a piece of flat bar iron, welded it back together, and broke it again measuring how much pressure it takes to break it both times. Has there been any testing like this?
I been welding cast iron 12 years, all kinds and size, pre heat and cool off its the most important part of the work, I see the video with jay leno too... you should stay with inox and aluminium welds. I cry when the antique cast iron of jay leno start to crack... any way I learn so much of your other videos.
So would use 7018 or 70s2?
Devi Holiday preferably 309l or 308l. With pre heat and a means of cooling off the piece slowly.
Question please:
How about welding
St52 (ASTM A572) steel
with
St275 (ASTM A529) steel
successfully?
Stick or mig or any particular method recommended?
Thanks
Surely Not his shining point welding cast. Most people have no place doing it because it takes some special knowledge and temperance. I think this was just a shill mercial { secret commercial ] Wish these guys would just be honest about paid vids. Every time you hear a snap pop or crackle you are losing the battle
Wish I would have known about this filler years ago if it was available then. Could have saved so much time heating and brazing. Sure they held but,ugly and time consuming. Great video and a huge shout out to the guy who makes this filler !
I have never tigged cast iron ,but I have used nickle stick rods with good results.
This video answered a lot of cast questions I had. Thank you for another great video !!!
pause between 11:02 to 11:05 and in the center of the video at the middle of the weld you can clearly see a crack forming. sorry but I'm not impressed. Thanks for the great videos. They're always informative.
Trick acula I'm pretty sure he rubbed the tungsten across it and it made that line
It looks to straight to be a crack.i weld alot of cast a if it does crack it's normally on the side of the weld rather than in the centre of the weld.its shit temperamental stuff to weld
Trick Day G
Trick Day
In the beginning of time...
The instructor did use the term 50/50 chance!
There’s your crack at 11:02 - 11:05.
@@catherinejack1 You weld alot of cast? Really what do you do that needs so much cast welded?
Ive had good luck using silicone bronze for cast repair. Cast anything is normally terrible to tig weld if all else fails, its back to the oxy fuel torch. Tried and true.
TheJesusno2 iii
Crown makes a Cooper NI. That I like. No pre heat required
I can hear the little ping sounds right after termination ... i don´t like those.
My thoughts exactly . sounds like its not going to last .
7:42 ouch
I like that flex head. I went through aluminum welding school a very rush course for certification. It was bullshit lol. You could weld one day a week later you were screwed. I loved to tig.
Anybody else see the hair line crack in the middle of the weld at 11:02? One inch above the hole in the weld.
Could you not use 306 stainless to do exactly this?
Hears it pinging and cracking decides to keep going. Ni99 would be the way to go.
Umm no it would not. Best results are always tig with cast iron filler. Just admit you don’t know anything about Cast iron or how to tig weld
Says the guy who calls it cast iron filler. U assume they only make that rod with flux on it.
Hello Mr. Tig, great video as always, would you use this EZ tig rod for welding cast STEEL? or what would you use for cast steel?
Cast steel welds more like regular steel
What tungsten was used?
Please, what is the brand name of the Tig rod? Can't find it.
How to set dc- . .i have a piece of cast iron metal and i want to weld it using tig dc welding machine. I just want to know if its ok to weld it with aluminium filler wire.
So, are you actually flowing the base metal?
Nice! I just went and ordered some. Their prices seem pretty reasonable. May have just saved a couple of cast pieces a trip to the scrap yard.
cracking(probably just poor heat management). Also, one manifold I had I about had to keep the tiger torch on even while I was welding, this would've been way better. That just looked too slick to not have a couple rods just incase. I think I'll try a cover first when the snow melts and I can find it.
Thanks mr tig nice video, I learn a lot
I have the same magnets, sometimes they upset the arc, if I turn them around 180 degrees the arc stabilises again.
What make of mask is that?
What are your setting on your machine? Negative, positive, square wave, and amperage setting, etc? Where is it available?
I noticed around the 11.04 to 11.05 time on video, after showing the bubble, when the camera focuses in you can see a hairline crack in the middle of the weld. Every time I use this filler and method I get the same result. I'll bet Wyatt couldn't see it while they were videoing because it was a really small crack, but when the close-up went in you can see it. Do you see it too?
You are right, a short hairline crack can be seen in the middle of the bead.
very informative especially if you are a beginner
Rest in
Piece to a legend
Thank you for making this video, it gives a lot of insight 👍
Interesting. I have a base casting or foot casting on a 1943 English lath that is cracked. Don’t know what I will do. Braze it or weld it or try to cast a new one. The fracture zones are open and rusty. Do you think this might work.
Words of experience. Filler rod is pretty interesting though!
due to its porosity I always preheat cast iron til it smokes... so any oils will burn off of it. im new to TIG, but ive always had success welding cast iron when stick welding, using either a ni-cad rod or MG600...
can this be machined when done inside a cylinder bore that was damaged by an errant needle bearing that scored vertically above the port?
I am about to weld a cast iron engine block using this same filler material. The crack is actually external on the block and it is not cracked all the way through.
If a part is not cracked and you just wanted to weld on cast iron to add material to it. Can you tell me how one would go about doing that?
PLEASE TELL US ARGON FLOW AND HOW MANY AMPS YOU USE?
First piece I ever tried was a cast iron pan using a Monkey Wards AC buzz box and 7018. Prefheatet or not it cracked every time even when I tied to braze it. Very hard to do with my equipment.
Thank you for another great and informative video! :-)
Clink .... it's tough no matter how u do it. I'll stick to brazing it. As someone else mentioned. Pack it in some dry sand to tame down the heat loss ... thanks.
hi can I do same steps with cylinder head and block engine
11:02 Dead center of the screen, dead center of the bead. Is that a crack?
Would these work with welding steel to cast? If not what would you recommend?
What was the name of that filler wire you used again
good job mr tig,u rock!!!!!
Thanks for this video. I would like to know concerning tthe tack welds. Do you think making a weld ball on the work end to prevent the metal from melting back at the end of the weld?
No pre heat cool got to get some
I weld a bit of cast in the last 40 years ive had good luck with rockmount cast iron rod
Listen at 8:16.
I have a Wilton 800 vise and there are chips by the top of the vise by corner of the bolt that goes into the jaws. how would I go about building it up? someone recommended blocking it off with thick plates of graphite but that process is too long and too expensive.
If they are just cosmetic damage I'd leave it alone, but if you want to build it up I suggest you contact Wilton to ask about the best filler for their particular alloy.
Not enough people take advantage of manufacturer tech support. It's free.
Easy Weld TIG Wire. Noted. Thank u!
know pre-heat.really cool.i will have to try that
Very enjoyable video,any chance of filler wire info?
Nickel 99
I can see a crack in the center of the weld I dont see how u cant see it but it cracked definitely
Is there any follow-up as to the part, and further testing, or stress testing, just to see if or where it may crack ....? Great job on your videos... I have learned allot, now, if I can just stop the shaking of the hands...lol
You can hear it cracking while he's welding. This might be good enough for decorative work but i wouldn't trust it for anything i cared about. There's a reason people preheat cast. And after preheat, they usually braze it one way or another. Welding can work too but it's not usually the first choice.
Is it just a braze?
i use to use cast stick rods and stripped the flux off them and used them as tig rods. if i didnt need to machine the part after.
I try to leave the piece in the bbq on low. Tack it up. let it sit. Pull it out do a little bead and put it back. And so on and so on.
Cast iron welds need to be hammered down right away before it starts to cool down to remove tension which leads to cracks
How on Earth did you weld for that long with no pre heat without many crack?! I tig tack weld on my cast iron with no preheat and yet it crack.
great vid
What is the code for cast iron filler ??
How thick is the welding table top?
Quick question. I know this video says you don't need preheat or post heat or anything like that when you use this filler but say I wanted to preheat the piece of cast iron I have and then stick it in some sand when I'm finished welding just for the hell of it. You think that would help or make things worse?
it would not make anything worse if at all it would help greatley. cast after heating it up to welding temp wich is high temp has to cool very slow slower the better. putting in sand is a good idea to help it cool slower. silicon bronze is a good cast iron choice on tig welding it.
Perfect! Thanks!!
cool thank you!
Good job sir
No pinning? Why? It helps a lot (well, most of the time).
category and number filler ??? :)
mahmoud gtaw You can get more information about this wire at EZ Weld TIG Wire's website: ezweldtigwire.com/about-ez-weld-tig-wire/
I want number filler welding tig
cast iron
Weld.com I want number filler welding tig
cast iron
Weld.com Please
I will first admit my lack of welding experience - at this point, all I have done is some reading. But I have read some about pulsed TIG welding, and that it is supposed to reduce the heat into the work. Would this be of any benefit in welding cast iron?
+John Henderson no
yes
Hi I work for a Big food company and I have Tig weld ( Miller Dynasty 300DX water cooled torch with Speedway SW320 Torch & I use gas lenses ) on Supper Alloy 42 which is a series of cast iron with 42 % Nickel in it very ugly stuff to weld on have you ever heard of this stuff or welded on it my part is big & heavy 130lbs & very rust - I do sand blast the enter part to get rid of as much of the rust as possible would like to discuss this with you if possible. Thanks
Why app, for sharing a simple question?
Is easy weld tig wire out of buisness? I have ordered some, now the phone numbers are disconnected.
kool , yes
Anyone know what happened to Mr. Tig and the Mig Monday dude. I think his name was Mark. I like Bob but I’m just wondering.
Thanks
Why do I get alot of popping and splatter when I Tig weld?
On cast iron specifically, or on all metals?
It could be a lot of things, but I’d say it’s usually a contamination issue. TIG requires extremely clean surfaces, tungsten, filler, and gas coverage. If any of those components are contaminated, your weld will pop and spatter, and blacken. So try cleaning all of your components, and make sure your gas coverage is good, including preflow.
If that doesn’t solve it, double check your weld settings.
how about some NDE?
no follow up?
i have always heard that when welding cast iron just use stainless, 309, not 316 and not tig, use sticks, and hit it like a idiot with a hammer afterwards
Kind of looks like there's a crack at 11:02.
Somebody while I was welding put metal can denatured alcohol same metal can on metal table it blew top off it glad I let up off pedal remember this to any welder metal can metal table part of your ground something will happen
So what i got out of this is: Dont use tig-due to heat, Preheat always helps, And Ni99 or use stainless, 309 stick rod..?? right? I'm sure Easy weld wire has its place ...
Hell no! You can use tig!
@@HenryTheBoilermaker3rdYear Yep sure can..I ended up using silicon bronze on a vice repair using tig ,preheated the crap out of it and worked it in the cracks .took a bit but it worked.covered it up with sand and let it cool down..customer was happy..It was work..and messy .. but i'd do it again. Peace
@moustachemike7128 I currently working on a cast iron bracket for customer. I'm welding on 5 mm cast iron plate with no success, getting all kinds of cracks even with pre heat. I'm using nickel chromium filler. Any advice? Might try out pulse mode. I'm preheating using my cooking top not oxy torch btw.
@@HenryTheBoilermaker3rdYear cast iron or cast steel?? ..ya just don't know whats in it You can spark test it and even then ? pretty thin stuff your working with what percent of nickel rod 55 or 99 .id try a different rod that more giving to shrinking on cooling also ya might not be hot enough just a thought... and cooing to fast.during the process.. there is some good cast brazing product on the street don't give up some thing will work.Keep looking on you tube at cast welders and see what works best i can tell ya,,good luck...
@moustachemike7128 update: I bought a cast iron pan just to practice on it. I preheat the hell out of it to over 400 Celsius then I weld with tig at 90 amps and I was no longer getting cracks. So preheating very hot is definitely very important when welding cast iron. Good thing I have a ir camera thermometer to tell me what temp I was on during preheating. That thing is a great tool in engineering heavy fab. Now I can work on my customers job with confidence.
now drop it.
I know it has been a while. If you look at 11:03 - just above the bubble I see a hairline crack in the center of the weld.
Watching the video, I may have not been able to see the entire height of tank, but I noticed that the Argon tank with the cap removed and a Flowmeter attached, DIDN'T appear to have a safety chain going around the tank. Call me Mr. Safety or anything else you'd like, but anyone that has ever dealt with highly compressed gases SHOULD have better sense than to remove a cap from a tank and allow it to stand on it's own and be subjected to being bumped or knocked over accidently.
thanks Mr. Safety
Mango, I have no idea if you were agreeing with my concern about the safety chain or just being sarcastic, but if you have ever seen what one of those tanks will do when knocked over and breaking off the valve can do, you'll appreciate having some sort of restraint around ANY highly compressed content of that type of tank that has the cap removed. I have seen what they are capable of a few times, one was when a newly hired person that was bringing in a fresh tank of oxygen on a cart that had the cap removed, the wheel of cart hit something on the floor causing the cart to be jerked out of his grasp tipping the tank over the edge of a welding table, knocked off the valve and it took off like a rocket, hitting a large Press Brake and knocked it 6 inches off the bed it was mounted on, the tank then glanced off the press brake and completely penetrated a brick wall and the only \thing that finally stopped the tank was a chain link fence of which it too, was mangled badly. I am not particularily fond of some of OSHA rules, but let any OSHA inspector walk into a place that has those types of tanks and NOT having some sort of cage or restraint around those that DOES NOT have a cap on them and that company will either pay a huge fine or in some cases I have seen the business SHUT DOWN until a cage was built and/or some type of restraint encompassing the tanks AND HAD ALL the caps PUT BACK on. So if you were being sarcastic, at least keep in mind of what I said, I have seen it with my own eyes of the damage that can be done by one and it was by the Grace of the Man above that no one was injured or killed either time.
Nortekj yeah brother i was being a little sarcastic lol i been studying worksafebc vids for too long and was a little pessimistic. its different on the screen then on the site or in the shop because theres a disconnect from all the danger. don't get me wrong i agree with you wholeheartedly and around high psi gasses i don't fuck around or even crack a smile. that kind of accident you described would've been a topic for one of these vids guaranteed…you are not in north america i assume?
Yes I am in the USA, I live in Kentucky not far from Cincinnati Ohio, and let me tell you, OSHA is really strict on safety here, even though their rules can be a hinderance at times and make things more difficult for people.
+Nortekj Do you know this guys resume? Really. If you look at some of his other videos you'll see a solid metal strap or ban around the tank. Go pick on the guys not using a throat shield!
With specialized Stick Rod. The end.
great videos but your camera man cant focus, send them for an eye test.
Got one minute into this and cut it. All you will achieve is to make a brittle material even more brittle. Peddle it somewhere else
Sorry but really amateurish. Welding with TIG rods that you don't know what's in there? The welds are presenting cracks, and blow holes, so if you need just that the two parts sticks together, that will do the job. Cast Iron welding: the do and dont's:
1) Avoid TIG weld, as the heat input is very high. The cracks are appearing because the weld has inherent stress when it cools down, and cast-iron is too rigid. Welding with TIG is slow, hence the whole part heats up more than it needs.
2) Use Stick electrode with high Nickel content. Expensive but really tough with 30-40% elongation (most use Negative on the electrode). Each brand has their own "special" cast-iron electrode.
3) Peening while it's hot, to reduce the stress in the weld.
4) When joining, get the most accurate fitting, avoid large gaps.
5) Don't go over 250 degC (500 F)
6) For those who have an oven and the part is not too large, preheat the whole part to 600 degC (1100F) and weld the whole thing without stopping, then back in oven, and slow cooling (very slow cooling)
7) Trick of the trade: Don't weld the whole joint with a root pass, then come back at the start to do the second/third pass. Weld one or two inches, then come back and forth , always peen while it's still hot.
What sort of alloying element is "trash"? With no AWS specification, I will pass. "4% Utechtanite" sounds dubious to me at best. An internet search on this word only points to their website or websites that reference their website. It sounds like "eutectic". I wonder if it is actually more of a brazing metal than a weld filler metal.
PS: I looked up the safety data sheet and it consists of Aluminum and Iron oxide. It sounds like what is happening is that when it is heated up in the TIG process that the aluminum reduces the Iron oxide to Iron and that is what is deposited in the weld area, essentially pure iron which is quite ductile. The "trash" that you see floating up is probably Aluminum oxide from the reducing process.
Does he call himself Mr Tig? ?
Yes he is :D Leaving porosity in his welds :D
I want to see a stack of dimes on that cast iron lol
Pissoff with the watermarks on the video, no need for that .
pork and cakes?
no peening , hammer or needle scaler ??? that innerestin'
I think peening it and letting it cool between welding 1 inch beads would give it a better success rate . Anyone agree?
Your Tig was horrible. Those holes man! Just get another layer and grind it away.
Unless there's a compelling reason to avoid pre heat, I'm going to pre heat. With cast iron, that's going to reduce the possibility of cracking. I don't care what the welding product vendor says. Obviously, Mr. TIG Is advertising for profit, not giving reliable advice.I don't trust him.
Lookat 1102 i shows weld cracks......booo
Every time you hear a crackle pop is another crack,