There was a guy on Facebook market place from muscle shoals who had a Kramer Guitar I was wanting to buy a couple of weeks ago, my dang truck broke down and I still haven’t got it started. He was going to give me a killer deal too. I never realized how far it was though. I am going to try to build just about one of everything you do. Your videos are awesome for learning man. You are a pretty good teacher.
looks just like the setup I recently assembled...except for the Arduino. The capacitors are different but it still does something. You mentioned that the design you saw was using a cheap Volt Meter. My instructions explicitly tell you to use a "good-quality" meter. But I do like the Arduino part. I just may have to upgrade mine before I print an enclosure. Also, I seem to recall reading years ago that the magnets are going to change on a pickup with regards to which string it's sensing. Giving it its particular Brightness/Color/Range in Tone before the other circuitry. Oh yeah...here's your thumb^.
One thing to be aware of is the inefficiency of the 780x regulators. I was just watching a video that pointed out that problem for battery-powered projects. Another problem is that they have a high dropout voltage (I think it was about 2V), which means than it's output voltage drops rapidly to 0 once the battery is down to 7V. Using a boost-buck converter would allow a larger range of batteries including rechargeable LiOn and LiPo's, and would be more efficient as well.
You've made a really thorough How to video here, and I don't think you left anything to chance. It's completely comprehensive and I feel empowered to build one. Thanks Chase, you are gentleman sir. :-)
Hi Chase great instructional! I was wondering if I make two of these one for a friend is there a way to calibrate them so the same readings from the same magnet read the same?
Very cool project. You shouldn't need the voltage divider board on a 5V Arduino. The analog pin is 5V tolerant, so you can directly measure the Hall effect sensor output pin. Also, it appears the factories spec their magnets with a direct reading, and your 600G reading up against the top of the pole piece matches what I think you'd expect to see on a moderate output pickup.
Dude thanks for the info man! I’m constantly learning on arduinos. I’m currently looking at a way to control a motors speed by using the speed of another motor. Like having a dc motors speed controlling a stepper or servo motors speed so when the speed of the dc motor increases the stepper motors speed will increase proportionally to the other motor. It’s a lot for a newbie on arduinos lol. Let me know if you have any idea where to start on something like this. Again thanks for the info and thanks for being apart of my channel bud!
@@ChasesWKshop Sure thing! Now that I look at your circuit design, I'm not sure the voltage regulator is even required unless you're using it to power the Arduino (which it appears you're not, since the Arduino has its own regulator circuit). You could just drive that little Hall effect sensor directly from the Arduino and greatly simplify the whole thing. Using another Hall effect sensor, you can measure the speed of a motor's output shaft by placing a magnet on a flywheel, gear, or pulley and detect every time it passes the sensor. Similarly, you could also use an optical detector in place of the Hall effect sensor/magnet and detect a hole, slit, or contrasting color on the flywheel. Then you can use the IDE's built-in millis() or micros() functions to measure the time between pulses, calculate RPM, and translate that to stepper output.
Yuri's Homebrew & DIY awesome. I’m trying to figure it out to run an automated pickup winder. I was thinking of using an OPTO sensor with a wheel to calculate the rpms the do an equation to pulse another motor. My problem is I have no idea how to code that lol. Haha that’s usually my problem. Thanks for your help bud!
@@ChasesWKshop I had a feeling that's what you were up to. I actually stumbled upon your videos when looking at designs for pickup winders, myself, and am considering the project. I plan to use a small drill motor or maybe my mini-lathe as the spindle, and then a large 20-30kg RC servo to manage the traversing. By mounting a wire guide on an RC servo horn, I think one can avoid a lot of the engineering (and potential cost) involved with making a linear drive. I think the key parameter in solving your problem is coils per layer. You can manage the linear drive speed across a known distance (which would likely be measured on an Arduino in the range of 0-1024) over time, using RPM to figure the amount of time to wind the desired number of coils. Alternatively, you can just move the guide once per rotation (each time the optic sensor triggers) - the step distance being total traverse distance / coils per layer, reversing at each end. With just a tad more math, you could introduce some randomization into the coils per layer to achieve some measure of scatterwinding. Back to the Gauss meter - consider adding a pushbutton that would automatically set your 2.5v offset when pushed. It's pretty trivial to wire one into a digital pin.
Thanks for the info bud! I know highline guitars has a pickup winder where he uses cams for the linear motion. It’s still not 100% automated though. Really just want to make it because I really just enjoy building the machine more than winding a bunch of pickups lol. Thanks for all your help and hope to see your design soon man!!
Thanks bud! I don’t have a picture of it. I can possible get you one but it’s mounted into the meter now so I don’t know how good it would be. Using headers for the pcb’s makes it a lot easier to install the arduino and wire all the parts in without the arduino in the way. Link below of what I’m talking about. Let me know if you have anymore questions bud. Glarks 120Pcs 2.54mm Straight Single Row PCB Board Female Pin Header Socket Connector Strip Assortment Kit for Arduino Prototype Shield(Single Row) www.amazon.com/dp/B076GZXW3Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n1o6EbEYGMW8P
Dude you are becoming a polished pro, I ain’t kidding. Awesome video, I can’t wait to use an arduino in something. When I subscribed to your channel, you had 425 subscribers. I have been telling everyone about you. How many do ya have now, if ya don’t mind me asking? 100k by Black Friday and getting paid. I had 6 good videos ready to put on here and my phone got destroyed with a lot more material too. Just so happens that my I cloud is full and hasn’t updated or saved anything since March. Hehehehe I’m about a damn dumbass sometimes. Keep up the good work buddy. I am rooting for ya
Hello, I love your Arduino pojects i started winding too and now im trying to get my gauss meter working... I use SS49E which has slightly different sensitivity SS495A have 3.1mV/G and this one should have 1.8mV/G. I cant figure how did you get that 1V is 1300 gauss.
Gotcha bud, I found a conversion somewhere that said the gauss for that sensor reading was around 1300. One thing I’ve always told everyone is that the meter itself will not be accurate to a expensive gauss meter but it will be accurate for what you’re doing. What I mean is even if your meter isn’t 100% accurate to an expensive gauss meter it will still give you a reading on your pickups and make you able to replicate an existing pickup that you have used your meter to take readings with. I hope that makes sense.
@@ChasesWKshop Yeah i understand that. In the end i took your "constant" and by simple proportion i calculated what my constant should be and now my meter works as it should. I took alnico 5 bar magnet which should have measure cca 600 gauss and divided by your C = 1300 is equal to meter reading divided by my uknown contstant.
Great stuff! I just built a winder following your build. Thanks for sharing. Question - have you compared your gauss meter to one of the smart phone gauss meter apps? Don't think I'll have the time to build this one before I start winding.
I have my winder working now, parts arrived last week. Now, for the gauss meter. The comparator is not needed, as I am using a computer power supply I have a good 5v supply, so can I do away with the 5v regulator too? Thinking about mounting this on the unused side of the winder, also thinking about incorporating a meter for impedence and capacitance. I have seen some youtube schematics for them. I don't know if I can use one arduino for all of them, it would be easier if I could.
Hi mate, nice and great work. Well done. I have made a air-core solenoid. I just need to prove the magnetic field strength experimentally using Tesla meter. I am about to buy, but after watching your set up and I thought to stop for a while and check it with Arduino. Is it possible to measure the field strength around 0.5T? Thanks a lot.
Mohammad Reza Barati thanks bud! I’m not sure if it would measure that high or not but I do know it will he’ll get up into the 1200-3000 gauss with some of the magnets I have. So if I could test a stronger magnet I think it may register up to 5,000 gauss like .5 tesela.
@@ChasesWKshop Hi, 3000G is still fine for me and can go with this set up. If you was able to detect such high field, I would be nice to get back and update the capability of this tools! Amazing.
The SS495A datasheet says that it has a linear response to +/- 670G at 3.125mV/G sensitivity, giving the sensor a maximum theoretical range of +/- 800G (with reduced accuracy beyond +/- 670G). While I'm no expert in Hall effect sensors, a quick search doesn't show an IC like this with a range beyond about 0.1T.
HowTo Hack thanks bud. Yes there is a link in my description to my website if you want to check it out. Let me know if that helps bud. Welcome to the channel!
I am looking forward to making a gauss meter. I have wired up the circuit and downloaded the IDE code but keep getting the same error. 'POSITIVE' was not declared in this scope. How do I fix this?
Try deleting the quotes (‘ ‘) around the positive and replace them with the ones in your keyboard. Sometimes copying and pasting the sketch doesn’t translate those properly.
@@DKEng45 btw did you delete the newer version before you installed the older one? It probably has to do with the file name not being correct with the library you downloaded. More than likely one of the files call name is different than what’s on the sketch. You can look into the library and find what it uses for it. Did you search that error for liquid crystal I2c in google? I’ve gotten a bunch of results for it myself. Let me know bud.
ive been trying to use this code on many different machines, and it's got so many little bugs and hangups I can't even get close to having a usable guass meter
martinluthierking sorry bud. What are you using and what is the errors. Are you having trouble uploading or another issue. I can make a video on your issue if you need me to. Let me know. Send me an email if you want to. Weatherfordwoodcrafts@gmail.com
martinluthierking I may have found the issue in the code. I changed it. For some reason my website was excluding the include functions on my code. I’m sorry for the confusion and let me know if that helped if not send me an email bud.
@@ChasesWKshop I can't get the breadboard and Nano to power up with a battery and iv'e wired it up 10 times, so I went on to the code and I have encountered a half dozen strays (200,223,234,235,302,303,342 etc.), and it seems different everytime on mac or windows.
martinluthierking gotcha. Are you running the board, voltage sensor and lcd off of the battery? You may not have enough juice to power all of that. On the code, do you know all the steps to set up your board with the correct com port and correct ic. If they’re not the same you will get tons of errors. I’d also try to power it off of your computer or a 9 v power supply to see if that works. If this is your first arduino project let me know I can send you some videos to help you get through some of this stuff. Hope this helps bud. Let me know!
@@ChasesWKshop it'll power up with a USB cord so thats not my biggest problem, it's not compiling the code that is my biggest obstacle. I've done a few projects but nothing this in depth nor on a nano arduino.
Why don't you make these and sell them off your TH-cam channel? I never understand why there isn't more of that. Or you could just procure the parts and sell kits!
There was a guy on Facebook market place from muscle shoals who had a Kramer Guitar I was wanting to buy a couple of weeks ago, my dang truck broke down and I still haven’t got it started. He was going to give me a killer deal too. I never realized how far it was though. I am going to try to build just about one of everything you do. Your videos are awesome for learning man. You are a pretty good teacher.
The Mongoloid awesome bud glad you like them man!
looks just like the setup I recently assembled...except for the Arduino.
The capacitors are different but it still does something.
You mentioned that the design you saw was using a cheap Volt Meter.
My instructions explicitly tell you to use a "good-quality" meter.
But I do like the Arduino part.
I just may have to upgrade mine before I print an enclosure.
Also, I seem to recall reading years ago that the magnets are going to change on a pickup with regards to which string it's sensing.
Giving it its particular Brightness/Color/Range in Tone before the other circuitry.
Oh yeah...here's your thumb^.
One thing to be aware of is the inefficiency of the 780x regulators. I was just watching a video that pointed out that problem for battery-powered projects. Another problem is that they have a high dropout voltage (I think it was about 2V), which means than it's output voltage drops rapidly to 0 once the battery is down to 7V.
Using a boost-buck converter would allow a larger range of batteries including rechargeable LiOn and LiPo's, and would be more efficient as well.
You've made a really thorough How to video here, and I don't think you left anything to chance. It's completely comprehensive and I feel empowered to build one. Thanks Chase, you are gentleman sir. :-)
Thanks bud! Glad you like it!!
Awesome... Strike to the point.
You kick out the myth.
The strength of magnetic field is the answer. Thanks Man ... Help.me allot.
Awesome, thanks and glad I could help you out.
@@ChasesWKshop had you balance all the magnet, and how to balance the Gauss?
i want to measure upto 12000 gauss, please suggest accordingly. And great work Chase, love the content...keep it running.
Hello my friend nice work, can you explain why you multiply with 1300;
Totally love it - you should make and sell these!
Hi Chase great instructional! I was wondering if I make two of these one for a friend is there a way to calibrate them so the same readings from the same magnet read the same?
Very cool project. You shouldn't need the voltage divider board on a 5V Arduino. The analog pin is 5V tolerant, so you can directly measure the Hall effect sensor output pin. Also, it appears the factories spec their magnets with a direct reading, and your 600G reading up against the top of the pole piece matches what I think you'd expect to see on a moderate output pickup.
Dude thanks for the info man! I’m constantly learning on arduinos. I’m currently looking at a way to control a motors speed by using the speed of another motor. Like having a dc motors speed controlling a stepper or servo motors speed so when the speed of the dc motor increases the stepper motors speed will increase proportionally to the other motor. It’s a lot for a newbie on arduinos lol. Let me know if you have any idea where to start on something like this. Again thanks for the info and thanks for being apart of my channel bud!
@@ChasesWKshop Sure thing! Now that I look at your circuit design, I'm not sure the voltage regulator is even required unless you're using it to power the Arduino (which it appears you're not, since the Arduino has its own regulator circuit). You could just drive that little Hall effect sensor directly from the Arduino and greatly simplify the whole thing.
Using another Hall effect sensor, you can measure the speed of a motor's output shaft by placing a magnet on a flywheel, gear, or pulley and detect every time it passes the sensor. Similarly, you could also use an optical detector in place of the Hall effect sensor/magnet and detect a hole, slit, or contrasting color on the flywheel. Then you can use the IDE's built-in millis() or micros() functions to measure the time between pulses, calculate RPM, and translate that to stepper output.
Yuri's Homebrew & DIY awesome. I’m trying to figure it out to run an automated pickup winder. I was thinking of using an OPTO sensor with a wheel to calculate the rpms the do an equation to pulse another motor. My problem is I have no idea how to code that lol. Haha that’s usually my problem. Thanks for your help bud!
@@ChasesWKshop I had a feeling that's what you were up to. I actually stumbled upon your videos when looking at designs for pickup winders, myself, and am considering the project. I plan to use a small drill motor or maybe my mini-lathe as the spindle, and then a large 20-30kg RC servo to manage the traversing. By mounting a wire guide on an RC servo horn, I think one can avoid a lot of the engineering (and potential cost) involved with making a linear drive.
I think the key parameter in solving your problem is coils per layer. You can manage the linear drive speed across a known distance (which would likely be measured on an Arduino in the range of 0-1024) over time, using RPM to figure the amount of time to wind the desired number of coils. Alternatively, you can just move the guide once per rotation (each time the optic sensor triggers) - the step distance being total traverse distance / coils per layer, reversing at each end. With just a tad more math, you could introduce some randomization into the coils per layer to achieve some measure of scatterwinding.
Back to the Gauss meter - consider adding a pushbutton that would automatically set your 2.5v offset when pushed. It's pretty trivial to wire one into a digital pin.
Thanks for the info bud! I know highline guitars has a pickup winder where he uses cams for the linear motion. It’s still not 100% automated though. Really just want to make it because I really just enjoy building the machine more than winding a bunch of pickups lol. Thanks for all your help and hope to see your design soon man!!
First! You are over half way to your first 1000 subscribers. Good job.
Thanks bud!
Awesome video! It's been awhile since I've taken something from a breadboard to a pcb. Do you have a close pic of your pcb setup?
Thanks bud! I don’t have a picture of it. I can possible get you one but it’s mounted into the meter now so I don’t know how good it would be. Using headers for the pcb’s makes it a lot easier to install the arduino and wire all the parts in without the arduino in the way. Link below of what I’m talking about. Let me know if you have anymore questions bud.
Glarks 120Pcs 2.54mm Straight Single Row PCB Board Female Pin Header Socket Connector Strip Assortment Kit for Arduino Prototype Shield(Single Row) www.amazon.com/dp/B076GZXW3Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n1o6EbEYGMW8P
Dude you are becoming a polished pro, I ain’t kidding. Awesome video, I can’t wait to use an arduino in something. When I subscribed to your channel, you had 425 subscribers. I have been telling everyone about you. How many do ya have now, if ya don’t mind me asking? 100k by Black Friday and getting paid. I had 6 good videos ready to put on here and my phone got destroyed with a lot more material too. Just so happens that my I cloud is full and hasn’t updated or saved anything since March. Hehehehe I’m about a damn dumbass sometimes. Keep up the good work buddy. I am rooting for ya
The Mongoloid thanks bud. I’ve got more than I deserve now. Thankful for every one of y’all!! Glad you like the video bud!
Hello, I love your Arduino pojects i started winding too and now im trying to get my gauss meter working... I use SS49E which has slightly different sensitivity SS495A have 3.1mV/G and this one should have 1.8mV/G. I cant figure how did you get that 1V is 1300 gauss.
Gotcha bud, I found a conversion somewhere that said the gauss for that sensor reading was around 1300. One thing I’ve always told everyone is that the meter itself will not be accurate to a expensive gauss meter but it will be accurate for what you’re doing. What I mean is even if your meter isn’t 100% accurate to an expensive gauss meter it will still give you a reading on your pickups and make you able to replicate an existing pickup that you have used your meter to take readings with. I hope that makes sense.
@@ChasesWKshop Yeah i understand that. In the end i took your "constant" and by simple proportion i calculated what my constant should be and now my meter works as it should. I took alnico 5 bar magnet which should have measure cca 600 gauss and divided by your C = 1300 is equal to meter reading divided by my uknown contstant.
Great stuff! I just built a winder following your build. Thanks for sharing.
Question - have you compared your gauss meter to one of the smart phone gauss meter apps? Don't think I'll have the time to build this one before I start winding.
p d great glad you like bud. I haven’t, didn’t even know there was an app for that lol. I may in the future though. Thanks for the comment bud!!
Thank u for sharing this !
I have my winder working now, parts arrived last week. Now, for the gauss meter. The comparator is not needed, as I am using a computer power supply I have a good 5v supply, so can I do away with the 5v regulator too?
Thinking about mounting this on the unused side of the winder, also thinking about incorporating a meter for impedence and capacitance. I have seen some youtube schematics for them. I don't know if I can use one arduino for all of them, it would be easier if I could.
Hi mate, nice and great work. Well done. I have made a air-core solenoid. I just need to prove the magnetic field strength experimentally using Tesla meter. I am about to buy, but after watching your set up and I thought to stop for a while and check it with Arduino. Is it possible to measure the field strength around 0.5T? Thanks a lot.
Mohammad Reza Barati thanks bud! I’m not sure if it would measure that high or not but I do know it will he’ll get up into the 1200-3000 gauss with some of the magnets I have. So if I could test a stronger magnet I think it may register up to 5,000 gauss like .5 tesela.
@@ChasesWKshop Hi, 3000G is still fine for me and can go with this set up. If you was able to detect such high field, I would be nice to get back and update the capability of this tools! Amazing.
Mohammad Reza Barati I will try to do that for you bud. Thanks for the compliment and let me know if you need anything.
@@ChasesWKshop You're welcome. Thanks again. 👍
The SS495A datasheet says that it has a linear response to +/- 670G at 3.125mV/G sensitivity, giving the sensor a maximum theoretical range of +/- 800G (with reduced accuracy beyond +/- 670G). While I'm no expert in Hall effect sensors, a quick search doesn't show an IC like this with a range beyond about 0.1T.
nice work dude, scheme or sketch is not available?
HowTo Hack thanks bud. Yes there is a link in my description to my website if you want to check it out. Let me know if that helps bud. Welcome to the channel!
What is the highest reading level?
Hi there
Did you try to make with same assembly tahometer , coud you help with this? Thanks
coffee business hey buddy are you wanting this box and the lcd screen as a tachometer or rpm gauge?
Thanks to answer back yes i want to do rpm tahometer
I woud to to talk by email if dont mind, coud show some picture if necesarry
Hi budy. I want to build for my milling spindle
Some of the parts already have, this was the reson if can do this on your way but for rpm
Can you tell about circuit diagram
I am looking forward to making a gauss meter. I have wired up the circuit and downloaded the IDE code but keep getting the same error.
'POSITIVE' was not declared in this scope. How do I fix this?
Try downloading an older version of the library. Had another person having the same issue and that resolved it. Hope this helps.
@@ChasesWKshop I have downloaded the older version 1.1.1 and get the same results
Try deleting the quotes (‘ ‘) around the positive and replace them with the ones in your keyboard. Sometimes copying and pasting the sketch doesn’t translate those properly.
@@DKEng45 btw did you delete the newer version before you installed the older one? It probably has to do with the file name not being correct with the library you downloaded. More than likely one of the files call name is different than what’s on the sketch. You can look into the library and find what it uses for it. Did you search that error for liquid crystal I2c in google? I’ve gotten a bunch of results for it myself. Let me know bud.
@@ChasesWKshop There is no " " around POSITIVE. Should there be? Is POSITIVE a variable and if so what value is it?
I AM LOOKING TO MEASURE 3 TESLA............. ALL HALL SENSORS WILL SATURATE.....NO CLUE SO FAR.........
ive been trying to use this code on many different machines, and it's got so many little bugs and hangups I can't even get close to having a usable guass meter
martinluthierking sorry bud. What are you using and what is the errors. Are you having trouble uploading or another issue. I can make a video on your issue if you need me to. Let me know. Send me an email if you want to. Weatherfordwoodcrafts@gmail.com
martinluthierking I may have found the issue in the code. I changed it. For some reason my website was excluding the include functions on my code. I’m sorry for the confusion and let me know if that helped if not send me an email bud.
@@ChasesWKshop I can't get the breadboard and Nano to power up with a battery and iv'e wired it up 10 times, so I went on to the code and I have encountered a half dozen strays (200,223,234,235,302,303,342 etc.), and it seems different everytime on mac or windows.
martinluthierking gotcha. Are you running the board, voltage sensor and lcd off of the battery? You may not have enough juice to power all of that. On the code, do you know all the steps to set up your board with the correct com port and correct ic. If they’re not the same you will get tons of errors. I’d also try to power it off of your computer or a 9 v power supply to see if that works. If this is your first arduino project let me know I can send you some videos to help you get through some of this stuff. Hope this helps bud. Let me know!
@@ChasesWKshop it'll power up with a USB cord so thats not my biggest problem, it's not compiling the code that is my biggest obstacle. I've done a few projects but nothing this in depth nor on a nano arduino.
Why don't you make these and sell them off your TH-cam channel? I never understand why there isn't more of that. Or you could just procure the parts and sell kits!
I’ve thought about it bud but I stay so busy with selling b and g Bender kits haha. I wish I had the time!
arduino 1.8.1 and 1.8.153 is wrong sketch
Plese halp me