It's TRUE! I try to make multimeter videos enjoyable, I really love testing and using these guys and it usually ends up being a good time! Thx for watching
I bought this a couple of years ago and am satisfied with it, best of the cheapies if you ask me. Looks sturdy and more expensive than its price tag. I recommend it if you're looking for a cheapie.
I forgot to add, on your intermittent live function, looks like your jack connections are soldered to the board ok in the video, does it act the same with different leads-? Maybe the lead jack sleeve needs to be pullled out of its hole and squeezed together a bit -? Im just guessing and after squeezing the sleeves together a bit I like to wrap a single turn of electrical tape around the outside of the lead jacks before slipping them back into their holes, they fit tighter in the holes and makes the leads fit nice and snug. Also fair warning, if you take this one apart all the way its got the PITA spring and ball bearing switch detents design along with a LED panel and backlight that are not screwed down to the board, so reassembly is a bit like surgery-lol I laid in a touch of grease to the ball bearing ramps before reassembly, works very smooth but still nice and solid. I finally got the combo down for reassembling it with much less frustration but it sure would be easier if the LED panel was screwed to the board instead of just laid into its recess . Let me know if you find out the issue - im curious to see what your problem is as mine works great. My VFC comes up after I hit the Hz button then the VFC button, the manual says it stands for "variable frequency voltage", Im guessing its something for measuring motors or-??? Overall I really like this little 10,000 count meter, its not perfect but what sub $20 meter is-? lol
Definately agree it's a very nice meter for the price. I'll be taking a closer look at it shortly and I'll give you an update if I can find what's causing the intermittent live problem, s you mentioned I'll try a new set of leads as well. Btw, thanks for your very informative replies, you seem like a very knowledgable meter aficionado and I appreciate your input. I'll be running the first contest soon for a free multimeter , should be fun. Stay tuned!
Ive got one of these and like it quite a lot, not perfect for sure -- but one of the biggest things its 9999 count - true RMS, good capacitance range, nice big display, great looking rugged case and doesnt feel cheap - except for the leads - like most cheap meters. Yeah the continuity could be better, but even my Fluke 17B+ isnt what it could be as with many meters especially cheap ones. Ive seen far worse than this for same money. I like it overall even with its flaws.
It's good value, flaws aside as you mentioned it does offer a lot. I just wish the continuity was better overall because this would have made it reside on my bench. Definitely much better than most "cheap" meters that's for sure!
@@KeepOnTesting- Yeah and it aggravates me why so many meters even some better more costly ones have to have crappy continuity performance, either its intermittent and slow or the beep is weaker than heck or both. We went to the freakin moon 50 years ago so its not like something this simple should be costly to make happen. I have an Amprobe 520 thats a very high quality meter but its continuity function isnt even as good as my Aneng 8009 using the probemaster leads, in fact the Aneng with PM leads even beats my Fluke 17B+ with PM leads and dont think that doesnt irk me-lol
HaHa, Yes it's hard to believe isn't it. now we are getting ready to send man to mars but we can't get a continuity buzzer to work worth a damn... Sigh ;) I was surprised the Probe-master leads made no difference though, this was highly unusual.Oh well, lot's of other meters can carry that flag! Cheers..
@Darren Walker What would you suggest for a meter that does all of this and has a fast continuity? I suspect the slow is because the processor is slow inside AND it has to think about the auto ranging. Still, I need a meter yesterday so what would you suggest that does all of this and has a fast continuity?
I am looking for an auto range multitester that is equipped with protection from 220 volt voltage so as to avoid damage when measuring 220 volt voltage but the selector position is wrong. does this multimeter have such protection? Such protection is important because I often forget to turn the selector in the right direction so that the multimeter burns and breaks
The Fluke 289 goes up to 100mF and 500 Meg Ohm, but then again it's not a cheap meter by any measure. As for the MESTEK DM91A, I would buy myself one if it weren't for the slow continuity, deal breaker for me. Nice review.
Indeed, the continuity is incredibly slow and will negate this one from my bench as well...Too bad because I really wanted to like this meter! The Fluke 289 is an incredible meter no doubt. I had no idea it went as high as 500 Meg Ohm, very sweet.. it is pricy though! Thanks for sharing.
Leonardo Camargo Vejo que você está atrás do multímetro barato perfeito. Se pra quem paga em dólares um fluke 289 é caro, imagine pra gente. 5 mil reais uma coisas dessas, dá pra comprar um carro.
The VFC mode should be for testing output of a three phase variable frequency drive, to filter out the carrier frequency and show only the actual output frequency. Although if anybody is working on a three phase motor he probably shouldn't be using a $25 meter.
@@KeepOnTesting Yea it was only released a few weeks ago, it was on sale on Banggood for $21 US when I picked mine up. The supplied test leads are pretty rubbish like most of them.
@@KeepOnTesting Good thing is you can get those yellow cheapo leads that you have for $3 or a set of double banana plug leads from Banggood for $10 that come with alligator clips and different sized test probe pins.
Had this exact meter. What a piece of crap. However, your intermittently working live function is probably just a manufacture defect, mine worked well. What bothered me very much is that when i measured 9v battery using the battery mode for a little too long, a fuse got blown, then the regular DCV measurement got completely incorrect reading. It took me a while to figure out the fuse blown directly resulted in the inaccurate DCV reading. After I replaced the fuse, the reading got back to normal! i was like WTF? And although the meter can warn about blown fuses, it sometimes doesn't work/warn you. I can't even recommend this meter to hobbyists. This is just a random meter that its measurements and behaviours are just too random. If you had to troubleshoot a board while troubleshooting your meter at the same time, it'd be a living hell.
Wow, that is not good to hear ! I agree , troubleshooting a multimeter shouldn't be part of the equation!! Thanks for the feedback and detailed reply...😃👍
Yes indeed, as I said in the review the continuity is terrible...still , it does have some great features...its definately not the best CHEAP-O out there by a longshot..thanks for the follow up.
@@KeepOnTesting It's a nice little meter and 22000 counts at that price is amazing, but it does have some drift on the resistance ranges, so a few years later resistance might not be in spec any more. It also has no backlight which is a shame. If you can still amend your order, I would recommend that you order from a european based seller as the EU versions of the UT61E have populated the MOVs and PTCs on the board for extra protection, whereas the more common Chinese and US versions are sold without those components on the board and with cheaper crappier fuses. You can tell the EU versions because they have a GS marking and bigger fuses.
@@KeepOnTesting No idea, sorry. I bought mine from rapidonline several years ago. I paid £36 (free delivery since it was part of a much bigger order) and in those days there was no "missing components" version. Someone I know recently bought one and his was missing several components on the board and his was using cheap BS1362 fuses instead of the bigger ones in mine, and there was no GS marking on this. (That one came from an eBay seller called hotmeter).
I took it (recycled) from another multimeter that was damaged during shipping. It was not purchased. It does fit really well and the magnetic backing is a bonus!
I would love to add the magnetic backing to my WinApex ET8102. Do you know any way to do that, or do you know a universal (aliexpress) dmm case/cover/holster with magnetic that i could buy?
@@Jose-Ribeiro Sorry Jose, missed this message. Its really hard to find 3rd party dmm holsters it's really a non existant market..best bet is to salvage or swap a holster you like into another dmm if it fits. Sorry I know that's not much help.
@@homedefenselawrence Indeed, I'm now using a voltage reference for all of the new multimeter reviews and I'm working on other standardized testing methodology. I hope to be as concise and accurate as possible no matter how expensive or cheap the meter may be.
Unfortunately not every multimeter can be calibrated by the end user. Trim pots have become a luxury. Replaced by onboard factory firmware calibration, closed case calibration etc.
someone had a lot of fun while editing this :)
It's TRUE! I try to make multimeter videos enjoyable, I really love testing and using these guys and it usually ends up being a good time! Thx for watching
@@KeepOnTesting DM100c pls revies & teardown tnx bro
@@aldrinelectronics4283 Check out my RICHMETERS RM406B Review, same identical multimeter! th-cam.com/video/9nIhdrv2ylA/w-d-xo.html
I bought this a couple of years ago and am satisfied with it, best of the cheapies if you ask me. Looks sturdy and more expensive than its price tag. I recommend it if you're looking for a cheapie.
It's an all around solid multimeter, 👍 agreed.
I like how you went into the internals. Great vid don't know why so many thumbs down
Thanks for watching! I appreciate the feedback 👍
I forgot to add, on your intermittent live function, looks like your jack connections are soldered to the board ok in the video, does it act the same with different leads-? Maybe the lead jack sleeve needs to be pullled out of its hole and squeezed together a bit -? Im just guessing and after squeezing the sleeves together a bit I like to wrap a single turn of electrical tape around the outside of the lead jacks before slipping them back into their holes, they fit tighter in the holes and makes the leads fit nice and snug. Also fair warning, if you take this one apart all the way its got the PITA spring and ball bearing switch detents design along with a LED panel and backlight that are not screwed down to the board, so reassembly is a bit like surgery-lol I laid in a touch of grease to the ball bearing ramps before reassembly, works very smooth but still nice and solid. I finally got the combo down for reassembling it with much less frustration but it sure would be easier if the LED panel was screwed to the board instead of just laid into its recess . Let me know if you find out the issue - im curious to see what your problem is as mine works great. My VFC comes up after I hit the Hz button then the VFC button, the manual says it stands for "variable frequency voltage", Im guessing its something for measuring motors or-??? Overall I really like this little 10,000 count meter, its not perfect but what sub $20 meter is-? lol
Definately agree it's a very nice meter for the price. I'll be taking a closer look at it shortly and I'll give you an update if I can find what's causing the intermittent live problem, s you mentioned I'll try a new set of leads as well. Btw, thanks for your very informative replies, you seem like a very knowledgable meter aficionado and I appreciate your input. I'll be running the first contest soon for a free multimeter , should be fun. Stay tuned!
Ive got one of these and like it quite a lot, not perfect for sure -- but one of the biggest things its 9999 count - true RMS, good capacitance range, nice big display, great looking rugged case and doesnt feel cheap - except for the leads - like most cheap meters. Yeah the continuity could be better, but even my Fluke 17B+ isnt what it could be as with many meters especially cheap ones. Ive seen far worse than this for same money. I like it overall even with its flaws.
It's good value, flaws aside as you mentioned it does offer a lot. I just wish the continuity was better overall because this would have made it reside on my bench. Definitely much better than most "cheap" meters that's for sure!
@@KeepOnTesting- Yeah and it aggravates me why so many meters even some better more costly ones have to have crappy continuity performance, either its intermittent and slow or the beep is weaker than heck or both. We went to the freakin moon 50 years ago so its not like something this simple should be costly to make happen. I have an Amprobe 520 thats a very high quality meter but its continuity function isnt even as good as my Aneng 8009 using the probemaster leads, in fact the Aneng with PM leads even beats my Fluke 17B+ with PM leads and dont think that doesnt irk me-lol
HaHa, Yes it's hard to believe isn't it. now we are getting ready to send man to mars but we can't get a continuity buzzer to work worth a damn... Sigh ;)
I was surprised the Probe-master leads made no difference though, this was highly unusual.Oh well, lot's of other meters can carry that flag! Cheers..
@Darren Walker What would you suggest for a meter that does all of this and has a fast continuity? I suspect the slow is because the processor is slow inside AND it has to think about the auto ranging. Still, I need a meter yesterday so what would you suggest that does all of this and has a fast continuity?
Thanks for the review. Which one is best budget multimeter, according to your test?
Hi Rafael, check out the Top Ten under the review description here: th-cam.com/video/wXjGgS3BRlY/w-d-xo.html
Nice demo, thanks. When do you think one should buy this model over the DM100C? Is it worth buying the DM100C for the extra few euros/bucks?
I would get the DM100C ..more features, more robust. Definitely worth the Xtra $
can you use rechargeable AAA batteries in this or is it not advisable?
Yes not a problem 👍
Thanks!
I was looking for PDF user manual, but this video is more beneficial. Thanks a lot.
Much appreciated! Glad the review helped.
Keep On Testing 😀👍
Very nice video! Subscribed.
Thanks for watching!
want this just for capacitor testing.
👍Will be great for that !
@@KeepOnTesting excellent i have just ordered one for £9 thats like $11 inc delivery!!!!!
@@slybunda wow..Great price! Let us know how you like it 😀
@@KeepOnTesting will let you know when it arrives.
I am looking for an auto range multitester that is equipped with protection from 220 volt voltage so as to avoid damage when measuring 220 volt voltage but the selector position is wrong. does this multimeter have such protection? Such protection is important because I often forget to turn the selector in the right direction so that the multimeter burns and breaks
The Fluke 289 goes up to 100mF and 500 Meg Ohm, but then again it's not a cheap meter by any measure. As for the MESTEK DM91A, I would buy myself one if it weren't for the slow continuity, deal breaker for me. Nice review.
Indeed, the continuity is incredibly slow and will negate this one from my bench as well...Too bad because I really wanted to like this meter! The Fluke 289 is an incredible meter no doubt. I had no idea it went as high as 500 Meg Ohm, very sweet.. it is pricy though! Thanks for sharing.
Leonardo Camargo
Vejo que você está atrás do multímetro barato perfeito. Se pra quem paga em dólares um fluke 289 é caro, imagine pra gente. 5 mil reais uma coisas dessas, dá pra comprar um carro.
It was nearly there, Darren.
Yes Derek...So close yet so far.... darn. I was hoping I was really going to like this meter!
Hi Derren, while you are testing/reviewing you should add ac current and dc current measurement.
Depending on the multimeter, I will do more AC current testing in the future. DC mA and A are usually included with most of my new reviews.
The VFC mode should be for testing output of a three phase variable frequency drive, to filter out the carrier frequency and show only the actual output frequency. Although if anybody is working on a three phase motor he probably shouldn't be using a $25 meter.
What is the difference between VFC mode and Low Pass Filter (LPF) mode? Kindly advise. Thx.
For diagnosing a machine that is using vfd and 3 phase motor, is VFC multimeter better than LPF multimeter?
@@Kwankwoliang Same thing, different name.
@@greentjmtl thx
VFC is something to do with testing electric motors I think
Bought this model 2 on eBay from Hongkong and China .
Congrats, it's a great little meter except for the slow continuity.
MUSTOOL MT109 does the same 100MΩ resistance and 100mF. Thanks for the reviews.
Right you are! I've just added that one to the list Its a brand new meter as well...hopefully this is a sign of things to come. Thx for watching!
@@KeepOnTesting Yea it was only released a few weeks ago, it was on sale on Banggood for $21 US when I picked mine up. The supplied test leads are pretty rubbish like most of them.
Roger that, too bad you can't buy just the meter and negate those crappy leads right out of the equation!
@@KeepOnTesting Good thing is you can get those yellow cheapo leads that you have for $3 or a set of double banana plug leads from Banggood for $10 that come with alligator clips and different sized test probe pins.
Had this exact meter. What a piece of crap. However, your intermittently working live function is probably just a manufacture defect, mine worked well.
What bothered me very much is that when i measured 9v battery using the battery mode for a little too long, a fuse got blown, then the regular DCV measurement got completely incorrect reading. It took me a while to figure out the fuse blown directly resulted in the inaccurate DCV reading. After I replaced the fuse, the reading got back to normal! i was like WTF? And although the meter can warn about blown fuses, it sometimes doesn't work/warn you.
I can't even recommend this meter to hobbyists. This is just a random meter that its measurements and behaviours are just too random. If you had to troubleshoot a board while troubleshooting your meter at the same time, it'd be a living hell.
Wow, that is not good to hear ! I agree , troubleshooting a multimeter shouldn't be part of the equation!! Thanks for the feedback and detailed reply...😃👍
JUST RECEIVED TODAY DM91A . TESTED CONTINUITY VERY SLOW TO RESPONSE . NOT RECOMMENDED .
Yes indeed, as I said in the review the continuity is terrible...still , it does have some great features...its definately not the best CHEAP-O out there by a longshot..thanks for the follow up.
I bought it
perfect mini device and good work but
it is measurement beatwean 45hz and 400hz
Roger that.. a great dmm it is...Small and loaded w features!
Uni-T UT-61E costs around £30 ($40 USD) and does 220mF capacitance ±(3.0%+5) and 220Mohm resistance ±(0.5%+10).
Good grief, 220mF!! That's insane!, Thanks to you I've just ordered one of these bad boys..Thx for sharing.
@@KeepOnTesting It's a nice little meter and 22000 counts at that price is amazing, but it does have some drift on the resistance ranges, so a few years later resistance might not be in spec any more. It also has no backlight which is a shame. If you can still amend your order, I would recommend that you order from a european based seller as the EU versions of the UT61E have populated the MOVs and PTCs on the board for extra protection, whereas the more common Chinese and US versions are sold without those components on the board and with cheaper crappier fuses. You can tell the EU versions because they have a GS marking and bigger fuses.
That's great advice, can you recommend a reputable European vendor that ships to North America? I do prefer that GS marking!
@@KeepOnTesting No idea, sorry. I bought mine from rapidonline several years ago. I paid £36 (free delivery since it was part of a much bigger order) and in those days there was no "missing components" version. Someone I know recently bought one and his was missing several components on the board and his was using cheap BS1362 fuses instead of the bigger ones in mine, and there was no GS marking on this. (That one came from an eBay seller called hotmeter).
No worries, I'll find a European vendor and post the results. Thanks again.
THANKS
😊👍
i Like it bro
Hi Darren where did you buy the orange case on your et8101? thanks.
It was actually rescued from another dead meter..fit perfectly ;)
Darren Walker ok thanks for your reply🙂 have a good one.
Where did you find (ebay please) the magnetic case/cover/holster at 3min21s? Please do reviews on dmm cases/covers/holsters.
I took it (recycled) from another multimeter that was damaged during shipping. It was not purchased. It does fit really well and the magnetic backing is a bonus!
I would love to add the magnetic backing to my WinApex ET8102. Do you know any way to do that, or do you know a universal (aliexpress) dmm case/cover/holster with magnetic that i could buy?
@@Jose-Ribeiro Sorry Jose, missed this message. Its really hard to find 3rd party dmm holsters it's really a non existant market..best bet is to salvage or swap a holster you like into another dmm if it fits. Sorry I know that's not much help.
@@Jose-Ribeiro Forgot to add, the RICHMETERS 113D boot will fit the WinApex almost perfectly..and it has the metal hanger on the back!
@@KeepOnTesting I would love to buy only the boot of the Richmeters. That way the WinApex will be perfect for my usage.
I hope it had min/max feature.
That would've been a welcome addition!
i think it is better at the end of video if you write down the list of pros you see and list of cons
That's a great idea.. Noted. Thanks for your feedback
@@KeepOnTesting thank you, Also if you may, do review of Aneng AN8009 vs Mestek DM91A - do include your recommendations at the end, he3 :)
opps sorry, accuracy is also important ....so a standard measurement is needed for comparison. Again thank you :)
@@homedefenselawrence Indeed, I'm now using a voltage reference for all of the new multimeter reviews and I'm working on other standardized testing methodology. I hope to be as concise and accurate as possible no matter how expensive or cheap the meter may be.
DM100C reabviews pls tnx bro
Thumb up from me mate :)
Great to hear! Keep on Testing!!
VFC..voltage free contact
could it be the range switch? press down on it, ive had to tweak them
how to calibrate this one?
Unfortunately not every multimeter can be calibrated by the end user. Trim pots have become a luxury. Replaced by onboard factory firmware calibration, closed case calibration etc.
Okay thanks! I git this multimeter but its not accurate anymore
@@grantplaza2961 Which ranges ?
It's also cheaper than the an8008
Roger that!
but this meter doesn't compare to aneng8008, at least the aneng was reliable while I owned it. This meter is full of randomness.
Sounds effects ruin this otherwise informative video.