I’ve comfortably ran 37’s on a D30/44 with spacers for the jk bolt pattern and extra clearance combo with 4:88 gears and Cromo axles , tube fenders and lock right lockers front and rear. The gears are plenty deep enough . The real factor here is how you drive! Every video here of him driving he’s full throttle,smashing over everything. He’s going to break everything eventually.
For me 33” and 5 speed manual on stock gearing I have abselutly no issues rock crawling in the Texas hill country. No i can’t do big 8 foot ledges but otherwise I send it with the stretched big boys
Thank you! I’m sure you know how much research you saved me, but wow I got to tell you anyway! Hours and hours upon days! Thank you for the chart! I’m sure it was challenging! I know exactly what to buy, and you potentially saved me thousands,
running a '76 chevy dana 44 in the front of my TJ with a v8 and dual cases with 40 TSL's. stock 4.10 ring/pinion w/ grizzly locker and havent broke anything in the 6 years i've had it that way running a '78 ford hp dana 44 in the front of my solid axle 4 door tahoe on 37s. stock 4.10 ring/pinion w/ grizzly locker and grenaded both front shafts ears/joints pretty quick! weight of the vehicle matters for sho!
Currently have a 92 YJ with Dana 30/35 with chromoly shafts and 4.88 Yukon gears with the 2.5l 4cylinder and 37x13.5R17 with Kmc bead locks , never have given me an issue on the road or off-road, always use to think you need a bigger motor and diffs, but realistically the budget could only go so much, have ran this set up for over 2 years now and still going strong and can cruise comfortably and not such a dog, eventually will upgrade the diffs when the budget can open up more, but don’t believe in trying out something just because everyone seems to be an expert! Try it first and have a mental note that yes things can happen but also don’t believe what everyone says !
You don’t need wheel spacers if you get wheels with different backspacing. However.. it’s much easier and more common to just use full width axles and adjust the backspacing to bring the wheels in as much as possible for good scrub radius. Also not sure you’re aware but you didn’t need to narrow the front.. there are full width 8.8 axles. They are easiest to find from f150’s. They come with drums instead of discs but have a wms if 65.5” and would’ve paired up with the 76 d44 in the front. It’s not a common axle and can usually be had for $200 or so in decent shape. I used one on my last tj I had. Would’ve been a way easier route to swap that then to narrow the front. It’s been a while but I think it’s the early mid 90’s trucks that had them. Same ones that had that weird split 44 in the front. Like everyone else I wanted that nice 44/9” doner but finding a 9” to pull is like panning for good. The 8.8 is plenty of axel for anything other then the new JK,JL unlimiteds which are closer to a Land Rover in size and weight then a Jeep. As for 241OR transfers.. you can find them on eBay around the $7-800 mark from time to time. That’s the way I’d go as they are way way stronger then the 231 and stronger then a Jeep will ever need at 7500 ft/lbs if torque rating. Which is almost double that of a 231. A great option is the GM h1 242 if you want to swap the trans too. A lot of gym autos will bolt right up to the 4.0HO 700R4 being the one I’d choose since they are strong and cheap to work on and can about the most easy to find junk yard pull there is. Not a lot know about the h1 242HD but it’s to the 242 what the 241 is to the 231. That full time limited skip 4wd would be fun to play with at times. Sadly the regular 242 just doesn’t work with big tires and low gears as the limited skip clutches just burn up. And aftermarket support for the 242 still sucks. Twin sticks are cool an all.. but for the cost of an atlas I can swap everything from the rear axles to the flywheel for the same cost lol. I’m actually really surprised more people don’t do Chevy trans to 241DH swaps. Especially manual jeeps. Sticks are fun and all till your on a 30-40* climb. Not sure I’ll get around to building another tj anytime soon but I would run 4.0, 700r4, np242HD, full width 8.8, full width 44 to run stickies at 40”. That’s about 1000-1200 total drive train before building for a bulletproof light rig. If I ever figure out how to fit 40’s on my current xj project while retaining most of the Cherokee body that is still the route I’ll take. But likely gonna be stuck with 36-37 depending on the final tire width I decide. Last thing.. you list 4.88 as the smallest 36-37? Yet have 5:13 with 40’s lol. That’s not even comparable to 37’s in 4:56’s when you factor in the weight differences? Your ratios don’t make a lot of sense tbh. They seem to only be accounting for size and not weight which after 36ish real inches (so 35-37 depending on actual sizing) starts to go up very fast. I’ve run 37’s in 4:56 with both 2.72 and 4.1 and both autos and that German 6speed and never felt like I needed lower gears. Hell my 06 TJ with 39.5” tires 2.72 and 6 speed I could literally bunny hop the Jeep on pavement it had so much torque. (All 4’tires off the ground) was a bit of pain to load the suspension properly but was a cool trick that got lots of attention lol. 4.88 are the step child of ratios.. I personally stick to 4.56 unless I’m going to run tons at which point 5:13 becomes the min. But I wouldn’t run 5:13’s in a 44 any more then I would run 4.88’s in a 30. You are just putting your weakest link in the hardest to get to area to repair on a trail doing that. I’d rather snap a outer or something else before shattering a pinion.
@@redneckrebuilds777 show me a cheaper way to make more low end torque vs changing to lower rear gears. Also lower gears puts less stress on the drivetrain between the engine and the differentials. Adding more power can work, but everything after the engine may not like the increase of power there, plus superchargers are expensive... LOL
@@joryclouthier I can't remember the exact RPMs, was over 2k at highway speeds, these 4.0 engines like the higher rpm. I could pull 15-16mpg (~65mph) with the 35s and 4.88 diff gears with my 5 speed manual (04 TJ 4.0 liter). Had similar mileage with the 37" tires and 5.38 gears when driving across the country. Now doing 80-85mph dropped those numbers to single digits... LOL
That was a great chart and so much depends on the type of terrain and how you wheel. I ran 36 Bias Iroks on a Tj Dana 30 with chromo axles and a lockright for years but the terrain was fairly mild and I preferred to crawl.
I agree anything over 35 inch tires will not work witout lockers , i’ve sooo many jeeps can’t get over a rock with 37’s and no locker where the jeep on 35’s had no issues at all . Nice video man 👍
I've got a little 99 tj I have a dana 30 front and 40 rear I run 4.56 on 33s, its a perfect little crawler, it will absolutely take me anywhere I want to go on my little 2.5l 4 cylinder, I want to bump it up to 1 tons 40s on an ls, that'll take some time and money...
1994 ford explorer 4.0/5speed , hp44(narrowed EB width)/8.8 4.88 gears spartan lockers, chromos, 38.5/15.5 grooved boggers, Atlas 5:1 2 speed. works really good in the snow, but eventually wanna move to probably just 37s. need to switch out of radius arms eventually too.
Your chart was very impressive. So many ppl have opinions on what and how to run tires with specific set ups. My opinion was different to yours, but I like everything you said, and you have actually made me lean more to 4.88s than 4.56s now 👍🏻
Check out Jake Burkey's 4 link build and how to make the perfect 4 link for off road. He has it written on a white board like you but he also has the recommended length for tire size.
Thanks Kelly!!! Very helpful. I know 40s are the craz right now but as of now 38s are the largest I’d go and there so many upgrades to get there...lol!!!
Very true, 40’s are the new 35, lol. I remember when 35’s were the biggest tire people were using unless they were doing races or competitions. To be honest I really didn’t want 40’s but a smoking deal fell in my lap so I bought them. I would prefer a 37 sticky.
Nice i did that on my ZJ about a year ago extend the bumpstop and work very good , I like what you say doing upgrade one at the time im not reach , that is me be safe out there .
That’s kind of depending on what engine you Are pushing I got a super 60 front 8 1/4 rear with Detroit locker Eaton rear and the front grizzly I’m running 40s with a 410 gear ratio with a 302 engine
'89 Renix 4.0 2dr XJ, AW4 (Full manual with RADesigns rail shifter) stacked 231/231 transfercases- 6 pinion and wide chain in main box, built D30 (sleeved, gusseted, Grizzly Locker, 4.56, OTK steering, etc), 8.8 rear w/super 88 kit (trussed, full spool, disk breaks). A lil over 94:1 final ratio in compound low. I run 34/9.50 TSLs (soon to be Q78 TSLs) for summer trail riding & 38/12.50 (heavily cut and siped) TSLs for snow wheelin. Agree that the D30 ain't big enough when you've got good traction with big tires but it works out great when floating on deep snow (or sand too). A light throttle foot in the rocks with the Grizz up front saves shafts but I'd still like to go with RCVs- anybody wanna give me a set???
I'm running 38's on trussed and supered D30/35 with 4.88's and ARB's. I've definitely seen videos taken by friends where I'm crawling over some obstacles and you can see my driveshaft rotate significantly before the wheel does. Putting some major torsion on those axle shafts before they spin the tires. Also running the WJ swap up front with Barnes steering kit for the WJ knuckles
Ford 9 inch has been one of my favorite axels. We ran them in race cars offroad rigs and a couple of backyard rock buggies that were the best all around rigs i ever played in. One thing i have learnd over the years is build a lite weight rig. Weight is a key factor. I wish the Cherokee had a real frame under it . So a guy could remove the body and turn it into a rock buggy. You could lose 2000 pounds of body weight and i could run 40s on a built stock axel. Bronco 2s work great for this project with 36s. I always wanted to do this to a TJ . Yea 40s
Ahhh it does have a frame lol. If your gonna chop something up add add a roll cage ECT. What does it matter if the body is attached? Separate frames aren't any stronger, just less cutting and imagination involved.
Bad advice at 4:36. Wheel spacers alter the Ackerman angle on the axle. A properly designed axle housing to fit the vehicle’s build and intended specs would have been the right approach. But then again, 40’s on stock wheelbase advise....
Great video, but you forgot about gear ratios compared to your transmission. What kind of transmission you have, and what it’s gear ratios are, speeds , and overdrive if your on the freeway, is a more important factor to choosing differential gear ratios for your specific tire size and ultimate plans for your jeep.
Nice video man! I dig the chart. A bunch of great info! I never had luck with my dana 30. 35's and a lunch box locker took out a couple axle shafts... but I never upgraded to chromoly shafts.
Thanks, I only had chromoly shaft with the 2 Dana 30’s I had, lol. Also the lunchbox locker could contribute to the broken axles. when they lock in, they shock that axle shaft. I had a trutrac which more gently locks the axles in.
I'll be $3500 into my hp30 and 8.8 from sff customs. Just getting them painted up and ready to put in. I don't have the means to weld so it made more sense to have them built. D30 got an ox locker and a truss. 8.8 got new lsd clutches. Both got new 4.88 gears and seals.
Unfortunately that damn worthless dana 35 rear transaxle that came stock in Jeep YJ's and TJ's should be changed out at first opportunity ,anyway. So once you get started, yeah , it's just money, Haha. 🤣😂
Did anyone else mention the Terralow 4:1 kit for the np231j ? I'm running it with d60 14b 5.38s and i have all the gear i need with 38.5 swampers. Drag 7000 lbs shipping container on dirt.
I didn’t mention it because they don’t make them anymore, they had problem with them a lot of them broke and too many warranties, and decided to not make them anymore, lol.
Definitely a ‘Shot Caller’ !! Great chart concerning axles and gear ratios. Picking up a HP front axle assembly this weekend for my Jeep. Good video Kelly! ❤️🐞
Muddy Beards 4X4 - I agree!! So use to getting up early so I can have coffee ready and make Joe his lunch before he leaves for work. Getting a 30 to build.
I recommend that if you're gonna run 40s or bigger, you and you can find some portal axles. You will see a much greater ground clearance improvement. 40" tires compared to the stock 29 inch tires gives you 5.5" roughly of ground clearance improvement from the ground to the axle at any point. with portal axles you can gain a rough estimate of 3" of additional ground clearance while also increasing the room for up travel by approximately the same amount. Another thing to consider is that the gas 4.0 L6 and further more the 2.5 l4 start to get a little underwhelming on larger tires, and i would highly recommend either turbo charging or supercharging the 4.0 or swapping with an engine you can get a bit more torque out of. like a 5.3 LS (cause they're cheap) or a mercedes or VW diesel engine... And the beefed up 1.9 TDI engines have been known to make 3-400 ft-lbs of torque... From the factory the 2006 tdi engine for the beetle and golf makes 177 ft lbs at 1800 rpm
@@zschlecht08 volvo c303 axles are capable up to 70 mph if i recall correctly, and axletech makes bolt on portals rated to 80 mph for dana 60 axles Alternatively atomic axles make axles which are angled to have a pumpkin that doesn't hang down low
Not a fan of wheel spacers. Did you consider wheels with a different off-set? No changes to the steering box, bracing, etc... Gotta love a RED Jeep! :D
Yes, I was going to put a note in the video and forgot, lol. Depending on what wheel you are using the backspacing you need might not be available. Also wheel spacers are much cheaper than buying 5 new wheels. Thanks for watching🤟🏻
Great video no BS! I think you forgot the chrisler 8.25" 27spline rear?=dana44 rear and way easier to find. Good to around 35" The usual suspects are going for too much money if, you can find one😒. Yes you have to put brackets ECT. But you'll probably do something like that anyways. Food for thought...
I run 37 x 12.5 on Toyota Hilux axles in my YJ with 4.11's. Spooled in the rear, Aussie lunchbox up front, with a 2wd Tera Low kit. I have zero HP or torque issues with the stock 4.0L/AX-15. Could it be geared lower? Maybe, but for me it works, and I would tell any newbie that wanted to run bigger tires, but couldn't afford new gears right away, to just go ahead and put the tires on...
Good video but a lot of people run Aussie and loc rites etc with big tires and although pointless in my opinion they work fine until they break lol never seen issues with them not locking up
@@dorsk84 I'm just gunna run it till something breaks: Its still open dif so I don't feel the need to keep it. Planning picking up an 8.8 this winter, then locking it
Nice Vid! Just clearing up a few things on the tcase gear selection. The Dana 20 low gear set is only a 3.15 ratio. If going to a Dana 300 in a TJ with a stock driver drop going to need to do a flip kit on the 300. Im currently running a Dana 30/4.56/chromos front and Super 35(30 spline chromo) Dana 35/4.56. Both ARB lockers on 35's. Its been a very reliable set up. Been over the Rubicon/Fordyce/Barrett multiple times no issues. I just picked up some Solid Industries HP60's F/R and am debating on tires. I love driving the Jeep to work and to the trail so thinking 37's but want 40's!!! The tcase is an Atlas 5.0.
Very nice, and yes, you are correct the Dana 20 is not 4:1, I knew that, but sometimes I just say the wrong stuff and don’t catch it. Also true on the 300 you need an adapter and flip kit. Really wish an atlas was in my budget, maybe someday! Thanks for watching👊🏻
@@MuddyBeards4X4 by the time you build a 300 youre really not far from the price of an Atlas, I also still see them for sale in good shape for a reasonable price on Pirate an FB Marketplace. I will say the Atlas is my Second favorite upgrade on my YJ-7. The V8 being my favorite and NV4500 coming in 3rd lol
new to the gear ratio changes. why do you suggest 4.88's on a 35" tire. if this is a daily driver would a different ratio make more sense? gas mileage, rpm's, age of vehicle (01 wj 4.0 with a 42re trans). not looking to go full on rock crawler just be able to go have fun.
I have plans to build another jeep, but right now I'm building my '06 2wd Chevy Silverado Prerunner . I am having trouble finding dana 60 here in Ohio between Cincinnati and Dayton. Do you have any good hookups for old axles?
Sounds like a cool build, one ton axles are getting hard to come by and expensive even on the west coast. I was able to get a 9” out of a 1980 f150 for like $200 last year, you can get up to 40 spline axle for them, they put them in 1000 plus hp drag cars, it would handle your build for sure.
In my JKU with 3.8l auto i ran 37's on rubicon axles, rear stock, front was sleeved gusseted and ran rcv axle shafts. It was ge a geared 5.38's. It needed a v8 swap still. And the 5,38's did not last. The gears were installed by a tech and it was taken to another shop to see if it was done correctly. The pattern was good. It still failed. Pinion on a 538 is to small IMHO. 5.13 should be as deep as you go with jk rubi axles and you need a v8. I agree full width axles are needed for 40's to clear. I am building an LJ with 1 ton axles in mind for large gear strength and for tires to clear the frame. Beefier assemblies and bigger brakes is a bonus.
@@peytonmahan5735 muddy beard videos about steering (i did not see anything about upgrading steering box) th-cam.com/video/4EWAG70YuH8/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/AAJ9ndl-Q7Y/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/MaCLzi2V4iE/w-d-xo.html
I am just about sold on the Currie 44 ,for the front , and Currie 60 for the back of my 99 TJ with the 4.0 straight 6 . You sound like you're experienced and This is my first time building a TJ . Please be gentle, what are your thoughts? Btw,I'm in Pensacola, Florida, but I plan to travel to the rock county. So I'll be on the road , and carrying rock crawler tires in a tow behind trailer.
I have an 05 Rubicon, stock gears with 35s. I may go to 37s or maybe not, not sure yet. Would you go with 488 or 513? If I would go to 37s it would be a couple years. Thanks for any advice.
I don’t do much rock crawling. I’m in the northeast. Mainly trails, some mud and snow. An occasional Offroad park. If that would factor into the equation of the above question.
I have a Jeep TJ 4.0 I6 1997 manual 5 speed with front axle automatic (Aussie) locker on Dana 30, rear axle Yukon DS73630 POSI LSD locker on Dana 44, 9,500 lbs. winch, tow package, 2.5” lift, KO2 31” tires; factory gears 3.07s. It’s not a daily driver, but I go drive 80% paved roads 20% off road, mostly on trails ATV go. I’m thinking of going 31” or 32” KM3 tires. Should I re-gear?
You said your running a spool up front? Is that hard to steer? Im going to build up my d30 in the front im going 35’s on my Cherokee. I did get an 8.8 from the junkyard and will truss and 488 gears. I guess my question im trying to figure out im going Detroit in the rear don’t know up front would Detroit work in front just worried about steering on, stock steering box
If you have a locker in the front you need selectable hubs, I can just unlock mine and it steers fine, or just one side. Robbie does have a Aussie locker in his Dana 30 with no selectable hubs, and he says it drives pretty good on the road👍🏻
hey so question, what about the G2 core 44s for the TJ, the front has 30 spline outers, and both have chromoly shafts, what size tires would you run with a set of them ?
I don't know much about them, but they are well built all around, than newer generation Jeep D44, just very expensive, but if you are looking for bolt in that will just work and have money, than go for it. You could run 40's on it if your truck doesn't make much power and has an auto like mine, but comfortably 38's for sure.
You said you wanted to step up tp 5.38's. I have a 8.8 and wanted to go with 5.38's but I can't find any. They go up to 5.13 and then jumps up to 5.71's, have you found 5.38's for your 8.8?
Just bought some used axles. need to re-gear them. I have 35" tires waiting to go on but I'm wanting to go bigger as soon as possible(could be a while depending on funds). Looks like I could go 5.13 gears and be good for 36-40's would it be stupid to run 5.13 for now with 35s?
How much stretch do you have? I want to go 40s but I am kind of afraid that I will be too high with not enough wheel base. I am not stretched at all as of now with a 6" Rubicon Express long arm suspension running 37s. Wondered if you had stretch or not? I see that you have outboarded your rear shocks.
I am at about 96” so like 3” of stretch. I would lower it to a 4-4.5” lift spring. You want to be as low as possible keep the center if gravity low. But with that comes a lot of trimming.👍🏻
Are you running a semi or full float rear? I’m running 38’s on built rubicon jk axles. In your opinion would you run 40’s on a semi float axle? I believe Nate does.
Muddy Beards 4X4 I keep hearing more and more people say dana44’s and rear 44 semi float flanges bend when running 40’s but I continue see people doing it and pounding their rigs with no issues. I ran a built Dana 30 for years on 37’s with no issues but I’m no expert. I’ve watched you pound the crap out of your rig so I’m just gonna send it. WTH
You rec 4.56 for 33's and 4.88's for 35's. I run 35's on a 5spd with the 4.0L. By my own admission I'm a mall crawler. Lolz. But would like to re-gear for the road. What gears would you rec for road use? We have some freeways here in SoCal with 75mph speed limits where drivers reg go 85-90. I don't plan on doing that but I often have to downshift to 4th just to maintain 65 (actual) going up a 3% grade.
I have 410 in an 8.8 on 33s, it's too much gear. Wish I would've gone with 373. Manual vs auto makes a huge difference in did gear selection and no one talks about that.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 dual rate coil spring use the same idea as Coilovers. 2 different rates one for minor travel movement (more weight bearing) and another rate for major movement (during suspension flex)
Muddy Beards 4X4 oops I forgot to mention 35s. Huge internal fight between 56 and 88 in Texas. Also having a hard time debating on current LJ rubicon build. It came with ultimate dpg kit OME 2.5 lift with 1.25 BL but has 35s. Also has goodies like Currie adjustables, heavy tie rod, tummy tuck. Do I go down to 33s and call it a day or keep the 35s, highline it, reagear with bigger brakes or add the 4 inch lift from savy with the mentioned above. Love the look of the 35s but I know once I disconnect the sway bars, I’m effed with any real articulation at the moment.
Currently I’m running a hp 30 and 8.8 both locked. Taking front axle shafts all the time on 35s so I’m putting in chromoly shafts next week hopefully that helps. Also working on building jk 44 axles for it. That should help with the width issue. Great vid👍
The tru trac works great on 33’s, pretty good with 35’s. I had some issues with it not wanting to lock up sometimes with 35’s. If I remember correctly the manual it came with said 33’s were the max tire size. But 36’s it really didn’t want to work at all.
Was it axle specific maybe? Cause I had just ordered one for a 14 bolt and I will be running 42s on my Jk. Everything I had heard was that they perform great and never saw a tire limitation
@@MuddyBeards4X4 thank you because I was told that if you have abs it will limit your options in regards to what axle swaps you can do without the computer throwing codes
I’ve a 2002 sport, swapped an 8.8 in the rear, it was already throwing abs codes when I got it. I just... pulled the fuse. No more abs. No problem. Better off with the disc brakes I gained anyways
@@MuddyBeards4X4 Makes sense. What would you suggest for upgraded knuckles? I am going to 35s now and still running a stock D30 w/chromolys, but want to get to 40s over the next few years. Chromoly axles is a no brainer, IMO. I am also upgrading to the Currie steering setup this winter. Living in Maine, I have from December/January until about April to do whatever upgrades/repairs I want to do for the year. Once summer hits, I hate working on it. hahaaa
I am no quite sure. You would have to do some research and dig around the internet. But the problem is the outer C ball joints ect. Is Dana 30 size. Maybe like a Reid racing knuckle or a teraflex high steer knuckles might be something to look into.
I would go with the least amount of lift you can get away with. I am at 4.5” lift, so i wouldn’t go over a 4” lift especially with 35”. With the high fenders you could do 40’s with 4” lift and have more clearance than I do, lol.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 while I got you, do you think 38s will hold up at all on Dana 44s under a CJ7? I do want to Hill climb but I don't pound it up hills but sometimes it does bounce.
I run 40’s on a front Dana 44. Depends on how you build it. So far so good. Broke one u-joint and now have rcv axles. I would say 38’s would be fine on the D44’s. If you break something, you know the weak points and upgrade from there.
Nice👍🏻that is definitely a sweet setup. Great gear ratio for tire size, and I love the trutracs. You will probably never break that setup, super reliable for sure.
I’m on 35’s , limited slip , stock wj axles sleeved, 4.56 , trussed . I have over 30 thousand miles of off-road on them . On a 6 in lift. Mix of boulders to creeks to logging roads . I broke a axle after 25 thousand miles .
I’ve comfortably ran 37’s on a D30/44 with spacers for the jk bolt pattern and extra clearance combo with 4:88 gears and Cromo axles , tube fenders and lock right lockers front and rear. The gears are plenty deep enough . The real factor here is how you drive! Every video here of him driving he’s full throttle,smashing over everything. He’s going to break everything eventually.
Years ago I rocked a K5 Blazer with built D44 in the front with 40s on it. It never let me down
For me 33” and 5 speed manual on stock gearing I have abselutly no issues rock crawling in the Texas hill country. No i can’t do big 8 foot ledges but otherwise I send it with the stretched big boys
Thank you! I’m sure you know how much research you saved me, but wow I got to tell you anyway! Hours and hours upon days! Thank you for the chart! I’m sure it was challenging! I know exactly what to buy, and you potentially saved me thousands,
I have 35” tires with 4.10 gears on my TJ, but then again I also swapped in a 5.2 magnum V8. Great info!!
Nice, the extra power definitely helps, lol.
running a '76 chevy dana 44 in the front of my TJ with a v8 and dual cases with 40 TSL's. stock 4.10 ring/pinion w/ grizzly locker and havent broke anything in the 6 years i've had it that way
running a '78 ford hp dana 44 in the front of my solid axle 4 door tahoe on 37s. stock 4.10 ring/pinion w/ grizzly locker and grenaded both front shafts ears/joints pretty quick!
weight of the vehicle matters for sho!
👍🏻
Ive destroyed my 8lug 44 with chromos and grizzly. On 40s. Broke every piece of it 10 times. Guess i need to lay of the gas pedal haha
Currently have a 92 YJ with Dana 30/35 with chromoly shafts and 4.88 Yukon gears with the 2.5l 4cylinder and 37x13.5R17 with Kmc bead locks , never have given me an issue on the road or off-road, always use to think you need a bigger motor and diffs, but realistically the budget could only go so much, have ran this set up for over 2 years now and still going strong and can cruise comfortably and not such a dog, eventually will upgrade the diffs when the budget can open up more, but don’t believe in trying out something just because everyone seems to be an expert! Try it first and have a mental note that yes things can happen but also don’t believe what everyone says !
You don’t need wheel spacers if you get wheels with different backspacing. However.. it’s much easier and more common to just use full width axles and adjust the backspacing to bring the wheels in as much as possible for good scrub radius.
Also not sure you’re aware but you didn’t need to narrow the front.. there are full width 8.8 axles. They are easiest to find from f150’s. They come with drums instead of discs but have a wms if 65.5” and would’ve paired up with the 76 d44 in the front. It’s not a common axle and can usually be had for $200 or so in decent shape. I used one on my last tj I had. Would’ve been a way easier route to swap that then to narrow the front. It’s been a while but I think it’s the early mid 90’s trucks that had them. Same ones that had that weird split 44 in the front.
Like everyone else I wanted that nice 44/9” doner but finding a 9” to pull is like panning for good. The 8.8 is plenty of axel for anything other then the new JK,JL unlimiteds which are closer to a Land Rover in size and weight then a Jeep.
As for 241OR transfers.. you can find them on eBay around the $7-800 mark from time to time. That’s the way I’d go as they are way way stronger then the 231 and stronger then a Jeep will ever need at 7500 ft/lbs if torque rating. Which is almost double that of a 231. A great option is the GM h1 242 if you want to swap the trans too. A lot of gym autos will bolt right up to the 4.0HO 700R4 being the one I’d choose since they are strong and cheap to work on and can about the most easy to find junk yard pull there is. Not a lot know about the h1 242HD but it’s to the 242 what the 241 is to the 231. That full time limited skip 4wd would be fun to play with at times. Sadly the regular 242 just doesn’t work with big tires and low gears as the limited skip clutches just burn up. And aftermarket support for the 242 still sucks.
Twin sticks are cool an all.. but for the cost of an atlas I can swap everything from the rear axles to the flywheel for the same cost lol.
I’m actually really surprised more people don’t do Chevy trans to 241DH swaps. Especially manual jeeps. Sticks are fun and all till your on a 30-40* climb. Not sure I’ll get around to building another tj anytime soon but I would run 4.0, 700r4, np242HD, full width 8.8, full width 44 to run stickies at 40”. That’s about 1000-1200 total drive train before building for a bulletproof light rig. If I ever figure out how to fit 40’s on my current xj project while retaining most of the Cherokee body that is still the route I’ll take. But likely gonna be stuck with 36-37 depending on the final tire width I decide.
Last thing.. you list 4.88 as the smallest 36-37? Yet have 5:13 with 40’s lol. That’s not even comparable to 37’s in 4:56’s when you factor in the weight differences? Your ratios don’t make a lot of sense tbh. They seem to only be accounting for size and not weight which after 36ish real inches (so 35-37 depending on actual sizing) starts to go up very fast. I’ve run 37’s in 4:56 with both 2.72 and 4.1 and both autos and that German 6speed and never felt like I needed lower gears. Hell my 06 TJ with 39.5” tires 2.72 and 6 speed I could literally bunny hop the Jeep on pavement it had so much torque. (All 4’tires off the ground) was a bit of pain to load the suspension properly but was a cool trick that got lots of attention lol. 4.88 are the step child of ratios.. I personally stick to 4.56 unless I’m going to run tons at which point 5:13 becomes the min. But I wouldn’t run 5:13’s in a 44 any more then I would run 4.88’s in a 30. You are just putting your weakest link in the hardest to get to area to repair on a trail doing that. I’d rather snap a outer or something else before shattering a pinion.
4.88 gears are awesome with the 35s on my TJ, so spunky on and offroad. Even made the crawl ratio better compared to the stock 3.73 gears too.
Glad you agree, 4.88 are definitely the best all around gears for 35’s🤟🏻
What's your highway speed with those gears?
I have 35s and 3.50 gears. 4.88s sounds nuts to me. Just turn the wick up on the motor.
@@redneckrebuilds777 show me a cheaper way to make more low end torque vs changing to lower rear gears. Also lower gears puts less stress on the drivetrain between the engine and the differentials. Adding more power can work, but everything after the engine may not like the increase of power there, plus superchargers are expensive... LOL
@@joryclouthier I can't remember the exact RPMs, was over 2k at highway speeds, these 4.0 engines like the higher rpm. I could pull 15-16mpg (~65mph) with the 35s and 4.88 diff gears with my 5 speed manual (04 TJ 4.0 liter). Had similar mileage with the 37" tires and 5.38 gears when driving across the country. Now doing 80-85mph dropped those numbers to single digits... LOL
Good job, brother. Charts and info are where its at!
That was a great chart and so much depends on the type of terrain and how you wheel. I ran 36 Bias Iroks on a Tj Dana 30 with chromo axles and a lockright for years but the terrain was fairly mild and I preferred to crawl.
Awesome info on the tire sizes, gears and axles. Very helpful video overall.
I agree anything over 35 inch tires will not work witout lockers , i’ve sooo many jeeps can’t get over a rock with 37’s and no locker where the jeep on 35’s had no issues at all . Nice video man 👍
Thanks🤟🏻
Imagine that. You narrowed your front axle then had to put wheel spacers on it lol
Haha, yep. Took 2 years before I decided I wish I hadn’t narrowed it.
Muddy Beards 4X4 You fool person
LoL
Love the video man! I’m building a 1 ton TJ on my channel now and appreciate the pointers!!
I've got a little 99 tj I have a dana 30 front and 40 rear I run 4.56 on 33s, its a perfect little crawler, it will absolutely take me anywhere I want to go on my little 2.5l 4 cylinder, I want to bump it up to 1 tons 40s on an ls, that'll take some time and money...
1994 ford explorer 4.0/5speed , hp44(narrowed EB width)/8.8 4.88 gears spartan lockers, chromos, 38.5/15.5 grooved boggers, Atlas 5:1 2 speed. works really good in the snow, but eventually wanna move to probably just 37s. need to switch out of radius arms eventually too.
👍🏻 Sounds like a sweet setup.
good job , lots of usefull information . thanks for your research .
Your chart was very impressive. So many ppl have opinions on what and how to run tires with specific set ups. My opinion was different to yours, but I like everything you said, and you have actually made me lean more to 4.88s than 4.56s now 👍🏻
Thanks, it all about preference👍🏻
You can add a few washers on the steering stops to keep the tires our of the control arms.
Or just loosen the bolts and tighten back down for added length as I did in the video👍🏻
I'm running 35" bfg km2s on my tj dana 30 4.88 gears and 8.8
Same setup. Limited slip in my 8.8 and lunchbox locker up front.
I have a 2010 JK with 35's, and was considering getting 4.56 gears. I think you talked me into it, I'll get 4.88's. Cheers from Canada.
4.88 is the best way to go
Check out Jake Burkey's 4 link build and how to make the perfect 4 link for off road. He has it written on a white board like you but he also has the recommended length for tire size.
Thanks Kelly!!! Very helpful. I know 40s are the craz right now but as of now 38s are the largest I’d go and there so many upgrades to get there...lol!!!
Very true, 40’s are the new 35, lol. I remember when 35’s were the biggest tire people were using unless they were doing races or competitions. To be honest I really didn’t want 40’s but a smoking deal fell in my lap so I bought them. I would prefer a 37 sticky.
I running 35 with 456 gears a Dana 44 front ARB and Dana 60 rear ARB I’m very happy with my setup
Dana 60? Way overkill for 35’s, lol. but at least you know you can go bigger if you want👍🏻
Sick red TJ! 40s look epic
Thanks man🤟🏻
Nice i did that on my ZJ about a year ago extend the bumpstop and work very good , I like what you say doing upgrade one at the time im not reach , that is me be safe out there .
Thanks👍🏻
@@MuddyBeards4X4 i like what you do tell people the true about a jeep Built is going to be spences and you tell then price too
That’s kind of depending on what engine you Are pushing I got a super 60 front 8 1/4 rear with Detroit locker Eaton rear and the front grizzly I’m running 40s with a 410 gear ratio with a 302 engine
I have a late 70’s high steer conversion Dana 44 front and a 9” rear - eventually I want to run 40’s
Nice, I am going to a 9” here really soon as well. 👊🏻
i saw yellow jacket at tahuya
'89 Renix 4.0 2dr XJ, AW4 (Full manual with RADesigns rail shifter) stacked 231/231 transfercases- 6 pinion and wide chain in main box, built D30 (sleeved, gusseted, Grizzly Locker, 4.56, OTK steering, etc), 8.8 rear w/super 88 kit (trussed, full spool, disk breaks). A lil over 94:1 final ratio in compound low. I run 34/9.50 TSLs (soon to be Q78 TSLs) for summer trail riding & 38/12.50 (heavily cut and siped) TSLs for snow wheelin. Agree that the D30 ain't big enough when you've got good traction with big tires but it works out great when floating on deep snow (or sand too). A light throttle foot in the rocks with the Grizz up front saves shafts but I'd still like to go with RCVs- anybody wanna give me a set???
Good video. I'm surprised no one talks about Auto vs Manual when making axle gear ratio recommendations.
Also if 3 speed or 4 speed vs 5 speed or 6 speed...
A lot of factors.
I'm running 38's on trussed and supered D30/35 with 4.88's and ARB's. I've definitely seen videos taken by friends where I'm crawling over some obstacles and you can see my driveshaft rotate significantly before the wheel does. Putting some major torsion on those axle shafts before they spin the tires. Also running the WJ swap up front with Barnes steering kit for the WJ knuckles
Ford 9 inch has been one of my favorite axels. We ran them in race cars offroad rigs and a couple of backyard rock buggies that were the best all around rigs i ever played in. One thing i have learnd over the years is build a lite weight rig. Weight is a key factor. I wish the Cherokee had a real frame under it . So a guy could remove the body and turn it into a rock buggy. You could lose 2000 pounds of body weight and i could run 40s on a built stock axel. Bronco 2s work great for this project with 36s. I always wanted to do this to a TJ . Yea 40s
👍🏻nice
Ahhh it does have a frame lol. If your gonna chop something up add add a roll cage ECT. What does it matter if the body is attached? Separate frames aren't any stronger, just less cutting and imagination involved.
Bad advice at 4:36. Wheel spacers alter the Ackerman angle on the axle. A properly designed axle housing to fit the vehicle’s build and intended specs would have been the right approach. But then again, 40’s on stock wheelbase advise....
I have a 30/44 with 4.56 on 35s. However, I have an 06 with the nsg370 6 speed. Which is fine to run a 4.56 on 35s
Great video, but you forgot about gear ratios compared to your transmission. What kind of transmission you have, and what it’s gear ratios are, speeds , and overdrive if your on the freeway, is a more important factor to choosing differential gear ratios for your specific tire size and ultimate plans for your jeep.
Thanks Kelly, very helpful 👍🏼
Glad I could help👊🏻
Nice video man! I dig the chart. A bunch of great info! I never had luck with my dana 30. 35's and a lunch box locker took out a couple axle shafts... but I never upgraded to chromoly shafts.
Thanks, I only had chromoly shaft with the 2 Dana 30’s I had, lol. Also the lunchbox locker could contribute to the broken axles. when they lock in, they shock that axle shaft. I had a trutrac which more gently locks the axles in.
I'll be $3500 into my hp30 and 8.8 from sff customs. Just getting them painted up and ready to put in. I don't have the means to weld so it made more sense to have them built. D30 got an ox locker and a truss. 8.8 got new lsd clutches. Both got new 4.88 gears and seals.
Who the hell would spend that kind of money on a Dana 30
You fool person
How to run 40s on a jeep. Step one change entire drive train. Lol
Lol, yep. Nailed it👊🏻
You fool person
@@realrickharrison3103 yeah ok bud
Axles gear ratio wheels. lift. drive train....
Unfortunately that damn worthless dana 35 rear transaxle that came stock in Jeep YJ's and TJ's should be changed out at first opportunity ,anyway. So once you get started, yeah , it's just money, Haha. 🤣😂
I love this jeep
Thanks man, me too👍🏻 lol.
Dude these are awesome. Keep up the channel!
👊🏻
Did anyone else mention the Terralow 4:1 kit for the np231j ? I'm running it with d60 14b 5.38s and i have all the gear i need with 38.5 swampers. Drag 7000 lbs shipping container on dirt.
I didn’t mention it because they don’t make them anymore, they had problem with them a lot of them broke and too many warranties, and decided to not make them anymore, lol.
Definitely a ‘Shot Caller’ !! Great chart concerning axles and gear ratios. Picking up a HP front axle assembly this weekend for my Jeep. Good video Kelly! ❤️🐞
Thanks! Wow you are up way too early on a Saturday, lol. Dana 30 hp or 44?
Muddy Beards 4X4 - I agree!! So use to getting up early so I can have coffee ready and make Joe his lunch before he leaves for work. Getting a 30 to build.
I recommend that if you're gonna run 40s or bigger, you and you can find some portal axles. You will see a much greater ground clearance improvement.
40" tires compared to the stock 29 inch tires gives you 5.5" roughly of ground clearance improvement from the ground to the axle at any point. with portal axles you can gain a rough estimate of 3" of additional ground clearance while also increasing the room for up travel by approximately the same amount.
Another thing to consider is that the gas 4.0 L6 and further more the 2.5 l4 start to get a little underwhelming on larger tires, and i would highly recommend either turbo charging or supercharging the 4.0 or swapping with an engine you can get a bit more torque out of. like a 5.3 LS (cause they're cheap) or a mercedes or VW diesel engine... And the beefed up 1.9 TDI engines have been known to make 3-400 ft-lbs of torque... From the factory the 2006 tdi engine for the beetle and golf makes 177 ft lbs at 1800 rpm
Where can you find portals that are ok at highway speeds?
@@zschlecht08 volvo c303 axles are capable up to 70 mph if i recall correctly, and axletech makes bolt on portals rated to 80 mph for dana 60 axles
Alternatively atomic axles make axles which are angled to have a pumpkin that doesn't hang down low
6:25 good info
Not a fan of wheel spacers. Did you consider wheels with a different off-set? No changes to the steering box, bracing, etc... Gotta love a RED Jeep! :D
Could you use a wheel with different backspacing to eliminate the wheel spacers, tire rub?
Yes, I was going to put a note in the video and forgot, lol. Depending on what wheel you are using the backspacing you need might not be available. Also wheel spacers are much cheaper than buying 5 new wheels. Thanks for watching🤟🏻
Great video no BS! I think you forgot the chrisler 8.25" 27spline rear?=dana44 rear and way easier to find. Good to around 35" The usual suspects are going for too much money if, you can find one😒. Yes you have to put brackets ECT. But you'll probably do something like that anyways. Food for thought...
Yep, I totally forgot about those 8.25, thanks for watching👊🏻
I run 37 x 12.5 on Toyota Hilux axles in my YJ with 4.11's. Spooled in the rear, Aussie lunchbox up front, with a 2wd Tera Low kit. I have zero HP or torque issues with the stock 4.0L/AX-15. Could it be geared lower? Maybe, but for me it works, and I would tell any newbie that wanted to run bigger tires, but couldn't afford new gears right away, to just go ahead and put the tires on...
Lol sounds like good advise
Good video but a lot of people run Aussie and loc rites etc with big tires and although pointless in my opinion they work fine until they break lol never seen issues with them not locking up
U make me wonder about my 35s on the rear dana 35 in my XJ...
🤔
I would look into a truss and cromo shafts. And a C-clip eliminator.
@@dorsk84 I'm just gunna run it till something breaks: Its still open dif so I don't feel the need to keep it. Planning picking up an 8.8 this winter, then locking it
Have you streched the axels?
Yes, I believe stock Tj is 93” I am about 96-97” currently.
I'm learning a lot from your info for tires and gearing, can you guide me build my jeep, and how to start my project?
Nice Vid! Just clearing up a few things on the tcase gear selection. The Dana 20 low gear set is only a 3.15 ratio. If going to a Dana 300 in a TJ with a stock driver drop going to need to do a flip kit on the 300. Im currently running a Dana 30/4.56/chromos front and Super 35(30 spline chromo) Dana 35/4.56. Both ARB lockers on 35's. Its been a very reliable set up. Been over the Rubicon/Fordyce/Barrett multiple times no issues. I just picked up some Solid Industries HP60's F/R and am debating on tires. I love driving the Jeep to work and to the trail so thinking 37's but want 40's!!! The tcase is an Atlas 5.0.
Very nice, and yes, you are correct the Dana 20 is not 4:1, I knew that, but sometimes I just say the wrong stuff and don’t catch it. Also true on the 300 you need an adapter and flip kit. Really wish an atlas was in my budget, maybe someday! Thanks for watching👊🏻
@@MuddyBeards4X4 by the time you build a 300 youre really not far from the price of an Atlas, I also still see them for sale in good shape for a reasonable price on Pirate an FB Marketplace. I will say the Atlas is my Second favorite upgrade on my YJ-7. The V8 being my favorite and NV4500 coming in 3rd lol
Lol, not sure. haven’t driven it on the freeway since 40’s, I have a trailer now so I dont need too.
Need help vibration over 55 and over not death wobble any ideas tires also being balanced and rotated and in line with each other help
new to the gear ratio changes. why do you suggest 4.88's on a 35" tire. if this is a daily driver would a different ratio make more sense? gas mileage, rpm's, age of vehicle (01 wj 4.0 with a 42re trans). not looking to go full on rock crawler just be able to go have fun.
Good question, Check your email I just responded👍🏻
I was Considering 4.88 with 37s superior 8.8 dana30 5 speed 4.0 tj for Daily driving some highway
👍🏻good ratio with 37’s if you will drive highway a decent amount. Daily driver with 37’s is hardcore. 40’s are the new 35’s, lol.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 Yeah I drive mostly on the road and like mudding trail rides not a Rock crawler or bouncer
We also have a jku sport with 6speed 37s with 5.13. And that moves along well but loves the gas.
Man, 2 Jeeps... must be nice, I can barely afford one, lol.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 dude tell me about it I have 4 but I have had my cj5 for over 20 years 4.2 t-5 30/44 with 373s and 35s
" Dana 35? No one wants that garbage"
Amen to that brother hahaha
Wouldn't the HP Dana 30 be the preferred one to use?
Yes, hp 30 is the way to go if your sticking with a 30
@@MuddyBeards4X4 That's my plan. I already bought one. With that, 35'' tires is something I've settled on.
I have plans to build another jeep, but right now I'm building my '06 2wd Chevy Silverado Prerunner . I am having trouble finding dana 60 here in Ohio between Cincinnati and Dayton. Do you have any good hookups for old axles?
Sounds like a cool build, one ton axles are getting hard to come by and expensive even on the west coast. I was able to get a 9” out of a 1980 f150 for like $200 last year, you can get up to 40 spline axle for them, they put them in 1000 plus hp drag cars, it would handle your build for sure.
What is a good lift height for 35inch tires on the tj?
4” is pretty standard. But I would go with as little lift as possible. But it all depends on your fender clearance and axle setup
@@MuddyBeards4X4 Im installing a 3" jks lift so to accomplish this would I need a inch body lift? thanks for the reply
I would run a 1” body lift. I also have 1” motor mount lift as well, not necessarily, but does help with driveline angle with the short Tj wheelbase.
I got Procomp tires as well and I love them. How much did the tires and wheels cost you if you don't mind me asking? I
It would probably be about $2000 for 4 of my setup, tires wheels and diy bead lock kit. Maybe $2500 for 5 before taxes.
In my JKU with 3.8l auto i ran 37's on rubicon axles, rear stock, front was sleeved gusseted and ran rcv axle shafts. It was ge a geared 5.38's. It needed a v8 swap still. And the 5,38's did not last. The gears were installed by a tech and it was taken to another shop to see if it was done correctly. The pattern was good. It still failed. Pinion on a 538 is to small IMHO. 5.13 should be as deep as you go with jk rubi axles and you need a v8. I agree full width axles are needed for 40's to clear. I am building an LJ with 1 ton axles in mind for large gear strength and for tires to clear the frame. Beefier assemblies and bigger brakes is a bonus.
Are you still running 30 spline shafts on your 44, and 31 spline on your 8.8?
You are correct👍🏻
Muddy Beards 4X4
Awesome! Are you still running the stock steering box?
@@peytonmahan5735 muddy beard videos about steering (i did not see anything about upgrading steering box)
th-cam.com/video/4EWAG70YuH8/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/AAJ9ndl-Q7Y/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/MaCLzi2V4iE/w-d-xo.html
I am just about sold on the Currie 44 ,for the front , and Currie 60 for the back of my 99 TJ with the 4.0 straight 6 .
You sound like you're experienced and This is my first time building a TJ .
Please be gentle, what are your thoughts?
Btw,I'm in Pensacola, Florida, but I plan to travel to the rock county.
So I'll be on the road , and carrying rock crawler tires in a tow behind trailer.
Waste of monies YOU FOOL PERSON
I have an 05 Rubicon, stock gears with 35s. I may go to 37s or maybe not, not sure yet. Would you go with 488 or 513? If I would go to 37s it would be a couple years. Thanks for any advice.
I don’t do much rock crawling. I’m in the northeast. Mainly trails, some mud and snow. An occasional Offroad park. If that would factor into the equation of the above question.
My thinking has been 1.9 TDI + 4.88 + 35'' tires.
👍🏻, if you haven’t already check out my buddy Nate’s channel, dirt lifestyle. He has a tdi Tj on 40’s.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 I have, we have chatted a few times.
Nice video, Thank you for taking the time to do a tire size to gear ratio chart.
👍🏻
I have a Jeep TJ 4.0 I6 1997 manual 5 speed with front axle automatic (Aussie) locker on Dana 30, rear axle Yukon DS73630 POSI LSD locker on Dana 44, 9,500 lbs. winch, tow package, 2.5” lift, KO2 31” tires; factory gears 3.07s. It’s not a daily driver, but I go drive 80% paved roads 20% off road, mostly on trails ATV go. I’m thinking of going 31” or 32” KM3 tires. Should I re-gear?
You said your running a spool up front? Is that hard to steer? Im going to build up my d30 in the front im going 35’s on my Cherokee. I did get an 8.8 from the junkyard and will truss and 488 gears. I guess my question im trying to figure out im going Detroit in the rear don’t know up front would Detroit work in front just worried about steering on, stock steering box
If you have a locker in the front you need selectable hubs, I can just unlock mine and it steers fine, or just one side. Robbie does have a Aussie locker in his Dana 30 with no selectable hubs, and he says it drives pretty good on the road👍🏻
What is the locking hubs for I don’t understand?
Great video, just subscribed.
Thanks👊🏻
I saw guy on TH-cam that had a Cherokee with bogger 40's on a Dana 30 and 35 lol
Lol, probably doesn’t do any serious wheelin then.
hey so question, what about the G2 core 44s for the TJ, the front has 30 spline outers, and both have chromoly shafts, what size tires would you run with a set of them ?
I don't know much about them, but they are well built all around, than newer generation Jeep D44, just very expensive, but if you are looking for bolt in that will just work and have money, than go for it. You could run 40's on it if your truck doesn't make much power and has an auto like mine, but comfortably 38's for sure.
You said you wanted to step up tp 5.38's. I have a 8.8 and wanted to go with 5.38's but I can't find any. They go up to 5.13 and then jumps up to 5.71's, have you found 5.38's for your 8.8?
I had 5.13’s. But I switched to 5.38 when I did the 9” swap. Way more options available for the 9”. I also do not see a 5.38 for the 8.8.
Just bought some used axles. need to re-gear them. I have 35" tires waiting to go on but I'm wanting to go bigger as soon as possible(could be a while depending on funds). Looks like I could go 5.13 gears and be good for 36-40's would it be stupid to run 5.13 for now with 35s?
I would go for it. Unless it’s a daily driver and you are worried about fuel mileage.
37s with 5.13 gears should suffice if you have the 4:1 T case, right?
Absolutely, great setup. 👍🏻I am jealous.
Also can you tell me what tire carrier you have?
Homemade
Muddy Beards 4X4 I figured. Mine is custom too since I could never find that setup for a TJ/LJ
How much stretch do you have? I want to go 40s but I am kind of afraid that I will be too high with not enough wheel base. I am not stretched at all as of now with a 6" Rubicon Express long arm suspension running 37s. Wondered if you had stretch or not? I see that you have outboarded your rear shocks.
I am at about 96” so like 3” of stretch. I would lower it to a 4-4.5” lift spring. You want to be as low as possible keep the center if gravity low. But with that comes a lot of trimming.👍🏻
Kelly- “I’ve broken more dana 44 stuff than i have dana 30 stuff.” Nate from DL- “I’ve broken more dana 44 stuff than i have dana 30 stuff.”
lol, Dana 30's are a great axle.
Asking for a friend. Will this work on a 2.5?
Are you running a semi or full float rear? I’m running 38’s on built rubicon jk axles. In your opinion would you run 40’s on a semi float axle? I believe Nate does.
When I made that video I had an 8.8 rear, now I have a 9”. Both are semi float and work just fine.
Muddy Beards 4X4 I keep hearing more and more people say dana44’s and rear 44 semi float flanges bend when running 40’s but I continue see people doing it and pounding their rigs with no issues. I ran a built Dana 30 for years on 37’s with no issues but I’m no expert. I’ve watched you pound the crap out of your rig so I’m just gonna send it. WTH
One question... In that cutaway where you cut to some desert trail footage, was that trail Isham Cyn in Trona or was it somewhere in Johnson Valley?
I believe what your referring too was Johnson valley.
Flip this front shocks over boss :)
Helps keep the dirt out of them
lastbhatalive the dirt that sits on top of the shock body will scratch the shaft
lastbhatalive a rock is MUCH less likely to make it to the shock shaft lol. You do you
You rec 4.56 for 33's and 4.88's for 35's. I run 35's on a 5spd with the 4.0L. By my own admission I'm a mall crawler. Lolz. But would like to re-gear for the road. What gears would you rec for road use? We have some freeways here in SoCal with 75mph speed limits where drivers reg go 85-90. I don't plan on doing that but I often have to downshift to 4th just to maintain 65 (actual) going up a 3% grade.
You've probably answered this before but what flat fenders are you running? Great videos btw.
Pretty sure you can get away with 4:10's on 33's...if you had the 4.0
I have 410 in an 8.8 on 33s, it's too much gear. Wish I would've gone with 373. Manual vs auto makes a huge difference in did gear selection and no one talks about that.
@@ibrigs19 good point. I have a 5 speed. it helps. I used to have a Wrangler with auto..it was just pathetic.
How tall are those lift springs? Also looks like you have coil spacers in the front? How tall are they?
Thanks
They are saggy old 4” fabtech springs with a 1” spacer. Hoping to go to the metalcloak 4.5” spring soon.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 Dual Rate Springs are where its at! We put them in my buddys LJ and it made a HUGE difference both on and off road!
I am hoping so, I will be putting them on my front and I have the rear torn down right now, going coil overs🤟🏻
@@MuddyBeards4X4 dual rate coil spring use the same idea as Coilovers. 2 different rates one for minor travel movement (more weight bearing) and another rate for major movement (during suspension flex)
4.56 vs 4.88 on 6 speed NSG370? What’s your opinion.
Depends on what size tire, but I would go with 4.88. With the 6 speed you have a slightly better overdrive so it should be even better on the freeway
Muddy Beards 4X4 oops I forgot to mention 35s. Huge internal fight between 56 and 88 in Texas. Also having a hard time debating on current LJ rubicon build. It came with ultimate dpg kit OME 2.5 lift with 1.25 BL but has 35s. Also has goodies like Currie adjustables, heavy tie rod, tummy tuck. Do I go down to 33s and call it a day or keep the 35s, highline it, reagear with bigger brakes or add the 4 inch lift from savy with the mentioned above. Love the look of the 35s but I know once I disconnect the sway bars, I’m effed with any real articulation at the moment.
What do you think of upgrading a Dana 35 with 4.88 gear Ratio and having 35's tires ? Still cosider it as crap?
Currently I’m running a hp 30 and 8.8 both locked. Taking front axle shafts all the time on 35s so I’m putting in chromoly shafts next week hopefully that helps. Also working on building jk 44 axles for it. That should help with the width issue. Great vid👍
Thanks👊🏻
What’s the reason you don’t recommend the true track for bigger than 35s?
The tru trac works great on 33’s, pretty good with 35’s. I had some issues with it not wanting to lock up sometimes with 35’s. If I remember correctly the manual it came with said 33’s were the max tire size. But 36’s it really didn’t want to work at all.
Was it axle specific maybe? Cause I had just ordered one for a 14 bolt and I will be running 42s on my Jk. Everything I had heard was that they perform great and never saw a tire limitation
That might be true, lol. Mine was a Dana 30. So yea, big difference
Let me know how well it works.
Will do it’s been a long process I’m ready to be trail ready again
I'm wondering if anyone knows how to identify if your tj has an abs system. It's a 2006 model x. Did TJ's even have ABS?
It would be a aluminum block with like 4 brake lines coming out of it and an accumulator on the ends right next to the brake master cylinder.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 thank you because I was told that if you have abs it will limit your options in regards to what axle swaps you can do without the computer throwing codes
I’ve a 2002 sport, swapped an 8.8 in the rear, it was already throwing abs codes when I got it. I just... pulled the fuse. No more abs. No problem. Better off with the disc brakes I gained anyways
Do you think the G2 Core44 with 40's would be OK?
As long as it has chromoly axle shafts the rear would be fine. The problem with the front is it uses the factory Dana 30 outers you swap over.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 Makes sense. What would you suggest for upgraded knuckles? I am going to 35s now and still running a stock D30 w/chromolys, but want to get to 40s over the next few years. Chromoly axles is a no brainer, IMO. I am also upgrading to the Currie steering setup this winter. Living in Maine, I have from December/January until about April to do whatever upgrades/repairs I want to do for the year. Once summer hits, I hate working on it. hahaaa
I am no quite sure. You would have to do some research and dig around the internet. But the problem is the outer C ball joints ect. Is Dana 30 size. Maybe like a Reid racing knuckle or a teraflex high steer knuckles might be something to look into.
I have a 98 TJ gonna run high fenders. But bouncing back in forth between 4&6 inch lift. What would you recommend??
Forgot to add 35” tires
I would go with the least amount of lift you can get away with. I am at 4.5” lift, so i wouldn’t go over a 4” lift especially with 35”. With the high fenders you could do 40’s with 4” lift and have more clearance than I do, lol.
Thank you I appreciate the advice and knowledge 💪🏽
What are you going to do when one day you decide to shave your beard?
It already happened, lol. But not by choice.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 while I got you, do you think 38s will hold up at all on Dana 44s under a CJ7? I do want to Hill climb but I don't pound it up hills but sometimes it does bounce.
The rear has chromoly axles the front has just stock Dana 44 inners and CJ7 outers
I run 40’s on a front Dana 44. Depends on how you build it. So far so good. Broke one u-joint and now have rcv axles. I would say 38’s would be fine on the D44’s. If you break something, you know the weak points and upgrade from there.
I stopped at 35's, D44's front and rear, chromoly axles, 4.88's and Truetracs front and rear. I have a baby Jeep compared to yours!
Nice👍🏻that is definitely a sweet setup. Great gear ratio for tire size, and I love the trutracs. You will probably never break that setup, super reliable for sure.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 That was the goal. A bombproof no frills woods explorer.
I’m on 35’s , limited slip , stock wj axles sleeved, 4.56 , trussed . I have over 30 thousand miles of off-road on them . On a 6 in lift. Mix of boulders to creeks to logging roads . I broke a axle after 25 thousand miles .
@@dougyankunas3104 What were you doing when it broke? Was it the axle shaft?
Can I run 4.88 gears with only 33’s?
Hey i know that guy in the tye dye.
You mean, Steve? He was my passenger a couple days when I was down at king of the hammers.