I bet carrying the 3/4 inch subfloor sheets upstairs made your day. ive got the exact same situation in an upstairs bedroom, old pipes and electrical and work.
This is great, thank you, I was on the fence about jacking up the joists (and slowly raising to fix the uneven floor) from the floor below but that seems like it wouldn't work in my situation. This may be my best option!
@@wysiwyg88888 make sure they don't just pour a bunch of floor leveler compound or cement onto the floor, they actually need to sister the joists using the method in this video. If they just use leveling cement, it will make the floor heavier and it will sag even more and crack over time. And then you have multiple problems.
Just because it's a small 8 x 15 room and I would have had to cut each 4x8 board into multiple pieces in order to stagger. There's benefit to keeping the larger pieces, and a downside to not staggering, so I just considered it a wash and went with the easier option.
So it looks like you didn't have blocking on the perimeter between each joist so that you could screw every 6 in around the perimeter. That's exactly what I'm hoping to do, but I can't find a clear answer as to whether or not it's generally required by building code. Am I correct about your approach and do you happen to know the answer?
I did not previously have blocking in the center where the plywood edges met, so I added blocking in myself so that all the edges of the plywood had something to screw into. I don't know whether it's specifically addressed by building code because I haven't read it, but it's the only correct way to install a plywood subfloor.
It’s definitely something you want to do. For the small amount of extra work it takes, it’s worth it to avoid the squeaks and deflection it probably will cause down the road. Each side should be supported by a solid surface you can glue and screw to.
Before: no, but afterwards, yes there was a 1.5inch difference. That's just because leveling involved raising the low areas rather than lowering the high areas.
Are your sister joists running to the supports on both sides? One side? Or are they just fastened to the old joists? I’m doing my bathroom (1890) and I can only reach one support if I sister. Wondering if I need to support on both sides.
I used a floor patch to flatten out a few low spots that persisted. This is so that the new vinyl plank flooring I installed later doesn't warp or crack around those spots.
Insulation is there because a long time ago this floor was an unconditioned attic space. It's now a conditioned space and so I didn't feel the need to reinsulate.
Yes they are! I usually use my noise cancelling headphones for this but I must admit I didn't use them all the time. Especially in a small, echo-ey room, very loud.
I'm using the Bosch GLL3-300G. It's kind of pricey because I wanted one with long range for outdoor projects -- for indoors, something like this will work just fine: www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-30-ft-Cross-Line-Laser-Level-Self-Leveling-with-360-Degree-Flexible-Mounting-Device-and-Carrying-Pouch-GLL-30-S/207134022
I love how every1 uses that little site on the top of the level 😂. Just lay it flat and read the middle bubble.... way easier to see and read. I guess thats how you can tell a diy'er from a pro❤
Yea but isn't bending more likely to happen in that direction? I stand it up because the level is less likely to be bent or otherwise un-straight in that direction
Obviously a diyer yourself. It’s way easier to just lay it on top and look down at the bubble. Can tell u have never actually leveled anything in your life. And if u have your just an idiot
![[กูเพิ่งซื้อมึงปิดหนี] 20 นาที ผมรีวิวเกมที่แย่ที่สุดในโลก CONCORD](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XhC-3q3Ii7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Probably one of the best ideas ive seen. When i get my kitchen gutted, i may try this if its that jacked
I bet carrying the 3/4 inch subfloor sheets upstairs made your day. ive got the exact same situation in an upstairs bedroom, old pipes and electrical and work.
lol yes VERY fun. Luckily there were only 4 of them.
This is great, thank you, I was on the fence about jacking up the joists (and slowly raising to fix the uneven floor) from the floor below but that seems like it wouldn't work in my situation. This may be my best option!
Great job. I have old house with one room that has sagging floor and I was thinking about doing same thing you did. Thank you for the info.
Let me know how it goes!
Great job
awesome job and great video dude. that cigarette is from around 1948 after looking it up!! so cool!
Very cool, thanks for the info. This house was built in 1922 so I guess they did some work in here around ~25 years later.
Great job! And entertaining!!
I’m so impressed. Great video. QUESTION: What sort of compound did you use toward the end to fill the plywood joints? Thanks.
It's called Henry's 345: amzn.to/4c1qjOD
Great video. Subscribed. What did you use to fill the plywood at the end?
Henry's 345 floor patch
I have same issue with a 9x10 room ... Wide pine floors .... House built in 1880. Wondering what cost would be 🤔
If you pay someone, probably a couple thousand dollars. DIY: just the cost of a handful of 2x6's and screws.
@@BadHomeowner ty! Id def have to hire someone. (maybe I'll find a bag of 💰 under the floor!)
@@wysiwyg88888 make sure they don't just pour a bunch of floor leveler compound or cement onto the floor, they actually need to sister the joists using the method in this video. If they just use leveling cement, it will make the floor heavier and it will sag even more and crack over time. And then you have multiple problems.
@@BadHomeowner yes I've seen that method and no way that's happening. I'd have them reference this video.
Really helpful video
thanks! glad you liked it
Curious that you opted to not stagger the subfloor sheets, but now have all four sheets meeting at a common point; typically a no-no.
Just because it's a small 8 x 15 room and I would have had to cut each 4x8 board into multiple pieces in order to stagger. There's benefit to keeping the larger pieces, and a downside to not staggering, so I just considered it a wash and went with the easier option.
So it looks like you didn't have blocking on the perimeter between each joist so that you could screw every 6 in around the perimeter. That's exactly what I'm hoping to do, but I can't find a clear answer as to whether or not it's generally required by building code.
Am I correct about your approach and do you happen to know the answer?
I did not previously have blocking in the center where the plywood edges met, so I added blocking in myself so that all the edges of the plywood had something to screw into. I don't know whether it's specifically addressed by building code because I haven't read it, but it's the only correct way to install a plywood subfloor.
It’s definitely something you want to do. For the small amount of extra work it takes, it’s worth it to avoid the squeaks and deflection it probably will cause down the road. Each side should be supported by a solid surface you can glue and screw to.
I had to do this with brand new floor joists a contractor installed. Frustrating situation....
That sucks. Refund!
I love how he creates mess and dust in his wife's sewing room. Her things must have been covered in shite! :D
Yep! I had a lot of vacuuming to do afterwards. On the flip side, this new room is mainly for my wife, so it still ended up being a good trade.
Did you have a height difference between the 2 floors at the doorway?
Before: no, but afterwards, yes there was a 1.5inch difference. That's just because leveling involved raising the low areas rather than lowering the high areas.
@@TravisWebbUSA how did you address that transition?
grid vid. which glue are you using on the 6x2's?
Liquid Nails
hi and what did you apply [the white substance] at the end on the ply?
curious myself, think he mentioned Henry's 345 floor patch
How about installing insulation in between the beams of the floor, would this be necessary?
You certainly can. I had insulation already, I could have added more but decided not to.
@@BadHomeowner Did you get that loose fill insulation checked for asbestos?!
@@infectedbrow7244 I did, surprisingly it came back negative.
Are your sister joists running to the supports on both sides? One side? Or are they just fastened to the old joists?
I’m doing my bathroom (1890) and I can only reach one support if I sister. Wondering if I need to support on both sides.
Mine only touch one wall, if that's what you mean by support. I also couldn't reach one side.
which kind of glue do you plaster at the plywood floor pieces
Henry's 345 floor patch
Yeah but you now have a step from the hall into the room!
Yea, but it's not that bad. It's less than 2in. because the floor was actually lower than the hall floor due to the settling of that room
Just curious why you filled the gaps in the subfloor with subfloor patch?
I used a floor patch to flatten out a few low spots that persisted. This is so that the new vinyl plank flooring I installed later doesn't warp or crack around those spots.
Stagger seams?
Room too small. Didn't want to cut up the 4x8 plywood pieces into smaller pieces
Why didnt you replace the insulation? It was all open and grimey. Wouldn't have beeen more than 4 of those bouts from Hoe Depot
Insulation is there because a long time ago this floor was an unconditioned attic space. It's now a conditioned space and so I didn't feel the need to reinsulate.
Please protect your ears, multy tools are loud af
Yes they are! I usually use my noise cancelling headphones for this but I must admit I didn't use them all the time. Especially in a small, echo-ey room, very loud.
Which laser did you use?
I'm using the Bosch GLL3-300G. It's kind of pricey because I wanted one with long range for outdoor projects -- for indoors, something like this will work just fine: www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-30-ft-Cross-Line-Laser-Level-Self-Leveling-with-360-Degree-Flexible-Mounting-Device-and-Carrying-Pouch-GLL-30-S/207134022
I love how every1 uses that little site on the top of the level 😂. Just lay it flat and read the middle bubble.... way easier to see and read. I guess thats how you can tell a diy'er from a pro❤
Yea but isn't bending more likely to happen in that direction? I stand it up because the level is less likely to be bent or otherwise un-straight in that direction
Obviously a diyer yourself. It’s way easier to just lay it on top and look down at the bubble. Can tell u have never actually leveled anything in your life. And if u have your just an idiot
Do you feel better now that you said that? What works for this guy works. And what works for you works. Just let him do his thing man.