@@lifeinthewave one thing, I have had some wild woolly ones on the back beach with the headland bounce lol that is wild man. But one surf stands out on the main beach, yrs ago in the 90s a huge deep gutter had developed and on the incoming tide there were sand island outer banks and they had great shape to them. It was surreal seeing these sand islands. Wasn't big or especially powerful but the waves had great shape and head high or so. And it was one of funnest surfs I ever had there with surprisingly long rides and end sections tubed up, it was great with 3 or 4 guys out sun fading through clouds....just a great day all round.
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Good to see sand here again many yrs since I surfed it.
But I have hung up the boards have fun, don't drop in, be cool to people and laugh and love.
@@nicktrueman224 hung up the boards? Why?
@@lifeinthewave illness and age
@@nicktrueman224 sorry to hear that 😓
@@lifeinthewave one thing, I have had some wild woolly ones on the back beach with the headland bounce lol that is wild man.
But one surf stands out on the main beach, yrs ago in the 90s a huge deep gutter had developed and on the incoming tide there were sand island outer banks and they had great shape to them. It was surreal seeing these sand islands.
Wasn't big or especially powerful but the waves had great shape and head high or so. And it was one of funnest surfs I ever had there with surprisingly long rides and end sections tubed up, it was great with 3 or 4 guys out sun fading through clouds....just a great day all round.
@@lifeinthewave all good I am not bitter about it I regret nothing lol. It's time for the kooks and groms to get waves or get in the way