Ben Heck Answers Your 3D Printing Questions
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.ย. 2014
- Ben responds to viewer’s questions about 3-D printing by delivering a full tutorial! He covers the kinds of printers available as well as the basic parts and costs of building your own printer. Ben also demonstrates how to find existing designs to print and gives examples of software for designing objects from scratch. After printing some objects, he shares tips and tricks on how to create the best prints possible.
Learn more about 3D printing at element14.com/3dprinting
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When I was a teenager (mid 1990s) my dad was a branch manager and engineer for a rapid prototype development company with 3D Systems stereolithography machines. It was mesmerizing to watch the mirrors as they made the most minute movements to make the laser move across the entire bed of resin. It was frustrating as the part disappeared into the vat of resin as the layers built up. Eventually it would finish and emerge from the resin. After the excess dripped off I got to go wash the parts in anhydrous alcohol to remove any residue, then bake them in a UV oven to finish curing the parts. Then we cleaned them up with razor blades and sandpaper before sending them either to the client or a mold shop. I saw, and in some cases did some work on, the original PlayStation body and controllers, all of the Iomega drive enclosures (Zip, Jaz, Ditto), and even Honda and Acura steering wheels (on behalf of the airbag manufacturer who actually designed them).
The machines were a cool $1M each. The resin was $600 per gallon. It is absolutely incredible to me to see that and similar technologies now available for home use. The vast majority of people getting into this have no clue how amazing that is. I need one...
Very interesting story - thanks for sharing :)
I need one too!
Looking back at this from 2018 it's amazing to see how far 3D printing has come.
Great Video. Helped me get started. Thanks so much for taking the time.
4:02 About the relative strength of ABS vs PLA: I'm just starting out in 3D printing but I have heard the exact opposite: that PLA is actually stronger than ABS when it comes to 3D printed parts.
ABS is more flexible than PLA, which can make it more resilient for some applications, and can make it weaker for others. But a huge factor in the strength of any 3D printed part is the layer adhesion: I have heard that PLA tends to have stronger layer adhesion, which would be a huge advantage in terms of the strength of the printed parts.
Where I favor ABS is with parts that will be exposed to heat. PLA weakens at a relatively low temperature (glass transition around 70C as opposed to 100C for ABS) so I prefer not to rely on it in such cases.
PLA is harder, ABS is more flexible. Which means it depends very much on the situation with of them will resist better. I dont know anything about the layer adhesion though.
I think its also a personal preference. In most cases both of them just work fine. I like ABS more, because it feels better for me if i touch it, and the parts I printed came out prettier in ABS. (But that may be individual to my filament and filament colour.) =)
Frego24 I think it depends very much on which brand ABS and PLA you use. I've also found some brands of PLA to be stronger and even as flexible as ABS.
Rockwell hardness of ABS is R105 to R110, while for PLA it's R70 to R90. On the other hand, tensile strength of PLA is 57.8 MPa while for ABS it's only 44.81 MPa. So, each have their own advantages. You can check other numbers for ABS vs. PLA here: www.botfeeder.ca/abs-vs-pla/
Also note that the glass transition temperatures (tg) of ABS vs. PLA are quite different. ABS starts melting at 105°C, while PLA starts melting at 65°C. So PLA is unfit for stuff that will get some heat, like 3D printer parts.
exaist I doubt it. ABS melts at a higher temperature than PLA; whether that would be viable depends on what happens to PLA when it's brought to ABS's melting point. Does it break down? Does it burn? Is everything fine and dandy? I also have no idea whether or not PLA and ABS would chemically bond, and if so, to what degree.
Yes, they both have their own advantage, but I also prefer PLA because of the stronger layer adhesion and stronger part building, like you mentioned. Actually bought some PLA and ABS at a very cheap price (18.99/ABS and 19.99/PLA) from this company Creator Fuel in Canada last week to test it, pretty awesome results and fast delivery
In another episode you mentioned that you were interested in making ABS filament out of ABS scrap (On the printer salvage video) I'm actually looking forward this video as this topic interest me a lot. Making a filament extruder would be a really good idea for a next episode.
Thanks Ben, your show is the BEST!
Would love to see more 3D Printer videos just like this. They are awesome, good work with explaining and showing off prints. Maybe other sorts of infill densities, ideas and examples regarding more "difficult" prints and such. Just throwing out some ideas, hope we get more videos like this! :) Keep up the good work!
Ben, Great video primer on 3D printing. Lots of information and a great place to start so you can learn to ask the right questions.
best video I've watched on beginning 3d printing. learned so Much in such a short time.
Very nice explanation & quite informative. Will definitely help me decide buying 1. Thanks Ben.
Thank you Ben, that video was extremely helpful. Learned a lot of useful things to improve my prints =)
Thought it was gonna be a boring episode. Boy, was I wrong. Super interesting!
Excellent info, thank you!
Thanks for this video I just got a 3d printer the Robo 3d for my birthday, it should be here in a few days cant wait to play with it
Im in your shoes bro, but i have to wait till may to get mine. Lucky for me though, CES is in feb, and the market will dump the 5th gen stock shortly before my birthday. Only upside to my waiting game lol.
Love the show! keep it coming!
Cool video. Very helpful for beginners in 3D printing.
I love your show from the beginning. Any chance that your show will go back as a video podcast? I loved taking your show with me to work.
Great video! Thanks
Really nice video, thanks you very much.
Informative, thanks!
Thank you, I enjoy smart humans, sharing knowledge with out being rude. Thanks very much sir.
Hi Ben, thanks for all the great videos. My 3D printer is a Replicator 2 clone and I print mainly with PLA. I use a piece of 6x9 glass on the heatbed and apply a thin layer of Medium Blue PVC cement (the metal can with a round brush attached to the lid). This method prevents the PLA from curling up. I was wondering if you have tried this out and any thoughts you might have on PVC cement. There is also an ABS cement in the same kind of can but I have not tried that yet.
When the said hm after he was done threading the screw really convinced me that he was Yoda of 3-D printing
is there a video where you instruct on how to build one? if you could post the link it would be great ! :)
Can the fill percentage be specified for different areas of the design? Like, a higher percentage for the weak areas and a lower for the sides?
Thank you so much for replying. I'm deaf and find your clips easier to follow with subtitles and I'm considering buying 3D printer prusa I3 kit that I assemble myself. It has 7 inch all round
I am into 3d character modeling and I build my character in a modeling progam and I am ready to print it. What is the best type of 3d printer I should use and what is a good affordable brand?
kindly suggest me, iam thinking about making a big powder deposition printing machine by using a cheap plastic deposition printer. is that could work? i want that in india...here the cost of that pdp machine is 75₹ indian rupees. what should i do?
How do folks feel about the Printrbot Simple Metal for low volume printing? Options for higher quality prints?
Pls and Abs is those the only two available for printing? If so which would be better for RC parts? I'm interesting in getting into 3d printing for this reason.
To make the printed pieces stronger, isn't it possible to print (with supports) under an angle of 45° so the courners are on the same layer? Or would it just shift the break?
Regarding tapping the thread, is it not possible to print a thread? Even if it needed cleaning up with a tap or die after, wouldn't that still be a better option?
Ben, why can't I change places with you? your shop is as if you literally reached into my dreams and built the shop i would die for.
I am building a 3D printer and studying the control software. I am really wondering why most programs use a Taylor series for computing the delay between the steps. The Taylor series has 2 simple multiplies which can just use a left shift, and one division but if the error is fed back then its really two divisions and 3 adds. So why not just do a divide of the clock rate by the frequency and be done with it. I just don't see why the Taylor series is preferred. I would love to know.
My mom said I cant spray flammable hairspray on my electronic, heated 3D printer. She had a guy with an afro burst into flames when she was younger....thereafter rolling my eyes they had landed on my kids Elmer's purple stick glue...ah yes...after three hours of trial and error, and error last night this morning I am quite smug. It really gives the surface the grip it needs to grab onto that plastic, and thank you so much for telling us about the raft and support options. Ah, the answer is usually right in front of you, eluding your duplicitous eye, under 20 pages of check boxes, drop-down boxes, and numbers.
Hey Ben I have access to a 3axis cnc machine. Could you point me in the right direction to learn how to use it to create 3d objects? Like what programs i could use to come up with the tool path for the router. Anything would help. Thanks
Overhangs are much easier to print on some newer models for consumer 3D printers. I have printed hollow dice, and you can't tell which end was printed on top.
I inherited a 3d cube printer. Can I swap out the controller board with a kit? If so what would be my best be and where to find? Thanks.
thank you for making this video
Hey Ben. I remember in one of your videos. you showed a device that you put several filaments in to and it could control witch one went to the printer for changing colour and what not. could you point me in the direction of the video please
I have the Same 3D printer he has in the background, few problems.. 1. its made of wood and the nuts WILL loosen up 2. because the plastic always shrinks it causes the prints to pull up at the edges, this is a problem because the two extruders increase your chance of knocking it loose much more likely (especially if you only printing with one) 3. you need to add a fan ASAP, as it has a tendency to build hot spots 4. Although ABS is much better in a mold then PLA and will have more of a give, PLA tends to stick to itself better than ABS and i found that i usually makes stronger hollow parts then ABS, allowing them to also be much lighter.
Overall; not the best printer, wouldn't recommend. Although makerbot are starting to make some very impressive printers (a few years later mind you)
I have a question. Do you know where I can get a file of a joystick and throttle (HOTAS) so that I can mirror it and make a left handed version?
Would you recommend a Sunhokey Prusa i3 to get started with 3D printing? They retail for around $300 CAD...
Would you be able to make a 3D printer with a large print area by switching out structural pieces from a starter kit? lets say 50cmx50cmx25cm?
hi what 3d printer would you recommend for a first time 3d printer user.
What sources would you recommend for the kits? Links please? And what to look out for - ie $500 kit vs $1000 kit
Could those remaining plastic broken bits be recycled into more plastic to print with?
Just to clarify, the tap material aint stronger, its harder. An example, if you have to equally sized rods with the two types of material and hit them hard with a hammer the one with the tap material will break, while the rod whit the screw material will dent. much alike the PLA is harder than the ABS but not as strong and flexible. But any way, good video :)
you hit on an interesting idea: an upside down FDM printer. you could possible bridge at greater angles, not to mention the possibly infinite build volume since the rigit x and y can be bolted down unmoving while the bed can just ride a rail up the wall..
Do they make pvc or pvf poly vinyl chloride or poly vinyl floride in filiments ?
hey there can anyboody tell how to 3d print all kinds of chips i mean all of them..how to print it out??
I seriously would love to design my own "LEGO" type pieces with my little brother if I had the money to buy a 3-D printer & learn how to operate it properly.
Imagine the possibilities, for reinvigorating a spoiled kid and actually engage them in some form of creative endeavour.
can you tell me if there is any course being offered on 3d printing?
Does element14 have a kit for your portable / fold up 3D printer?
i am building a delta . but i am having a problem with the frimware i am using sprinter and when i upload it to the ramps i get this message (temp2analogh was not decleared ) . can u help me with that please?
Hey Ben I was hoping to make a 3d printer with a print bed of 16' x 6' x 4'. Can it be done?! Any tips?!
Thank you for the level of music . I was so put off last time round , it's what ....... 6 months since I was on your site .
Ben can you recommend a good home 3d printer. I'm a SCADA programmer who has retired and looking to get involved in some home automation with either Arduino or Beagle Bones and I'd like to make cases for them.
Dear Ben, I have a Prusa i3 RepRap open frame printer. I sliced my model using Simplify 3D with a layer height of 0.1mm. Print output is fine but there are continuous ripples on my part. How do I fix this?
Is it possible to print-out steel and/or metal material using a 3D printer, by chance?
My 3d printer supports 150mm * 150mm * 150mm if I make the frame bigger and get a larger 400mm squared heated would that work
2 things that keep me awake:
1) Does the/a Printer take into account for Shrinkage?
2) Does the Printer take into account the Opening of the Print Output?
I am new to the needs of designing for a 3D printer.
I have read 2 books (for beginners) and neither touched on this, and I have alsi watched countless TH-cam videos as well, and again, No, Nothing about any printer taking these 2 things into consideration.
For my designs, I must know what the Abilities/Limits are for the material is as well as for the Printer.
I am going to start out with some easy projects, but I have big expectations for the tools that I use.
Printers do not typically account for shrinkage as it varies with design, scale, and material. Best to do partial test prints to measure the difference yourself.
ThanX for replying. Now, do we know the Shrinkage rate of each material? I'd like to be able to design in any shrinkage of a part.
Actually I don't think printers can use STL files. they typically need gcode. the STL file is what your slicer can use to then generate the gcode that your printer actually needs.
btw LOVE your stuff. keep up the great work!
I would like to see Ben make a small STL/SLA printer. Perhaps using DVD drive parts.
Thanks for the video, Though I disagree about the kit. I have spent the last two months sourcing/ordering/ and assembling a RepRap Prusa I3 and have gotten all the parts for $395. I am only waiting on the power supply to arrive.
I expect debug time and time to calibrate it but for the savings, it was well worth it to make my own. If you can operate a screw driver and solder a wire then you can easily make your own.
what grade sandpaper do u use/suggest?
Ben will you ever make something with the intel edison
Cool Videos!
@ 1:20, How could you have a FDM printer upside down? wouldn't gravity work against you?
I was eating turkey soup when you said happy thanks giving, thats creepy and cool ahaha.
Could you please make a video of problems that we can face using ABS with the 3D Printer and how we can solve them?
Thanks in advance
Hey, Looking to get a 3D printer soon, Can you recommend some 3D software suitable for beginners in design which will work for 3d printers?
Want to have a bit of a play before I go and buy one.
Hello i have a Felix v3.0 3D printer, can somebody help me out with the pinlayout of there display. Alread thanks.
Hello there, The Ben Heck Show! I just want to know if it's possible to use VPython (it's similar to OpenScad) to print down a 3D model. Is it? I really need to know :/
What sort of plastic is suitable for food contact and also UV resistant,for food containers or making a spoons?
Check out PETG.
Prices have come way down. My electronics (RAMPS 1.4) w/LCD was about $80 (included motor drivers and all cables). Motors were $60. I agree with you on the Hotend. E3D is where I'm leaning to next, but otherwise it will be a J-Head. Power Supplies are
how do you use blender for 3D printing
Hey ben, what is the cheapest 3d printer you know (printer not pen)
I am only 13 years old and i am realy intrested in car engines, i want to use it to print on scale real life car engines and transmissions and tings as such...could you pleace help me???
Ben, at 5:20 you implied that ABS won't be available in the future. Is ABS being phased out?
He may be referring to anticipated future petroleum shortages as the world supply is gradually depleted.
Though another possibility is that availability of ABS _in filament form_ will end - either as a result of home 3D printing losing popularity or switching to another printing technology.
I've been googling about 3d print fidelity for an hour. I can't find any kind of comparison chart.
Thanks for this video. Do you have any kit recommendations for something that can print larger models, maybe something with an 11x17 or larger platform that I can put together for under $1000?
why so big man just curious?
I'm really interested in printing car interior trim pieces as well as arcade parts and a lot of them are fairly substantial in size.
Looking around it seems the Rigid Bot Big offers a decent sized platform at a reasonable price but I haven't found any real reviews on the kit.
11x17 is not practical. But a very robust model with a large print volume is the MendelMax www.mendelmax.com/ (it is an open-source 3d printer). Its build volume is 230 x 310 x 225 mm (9.646 x 12.402 x 8.859 in, imperial units are quite unpleasant).
There's good big 3d printer called TIKO Only $179, very cheap and very good, Google TIKO
For smoothing out PLA parts, use chloroform or dichloromethane (in vapor form, heat at about 60-80°C). I have made an extensive test with 7 different materials. Chloroform fared best of all. I tested: Chloroform, dichloromethane, tetrahydrofuran, ethyl acetate, sodium hydroxide (caustic soda), acetone, methyl-ethyl-ketone (MEK). Warning: chloroform and dichloromethane are very toxic, take all necessary precautions. I will release a video showing the experiment shortly
Did you release the video?
Can I use this plastic for the mower?
buy used parts (motors etc.) 50$
buy china switching powersupplies, 12V 300W cost 25$
Use fake arduino with proper software (10$)
Use china stepper drivers (TB6560 10$ each)
get pcb's and make your sensing & switching for heated extruder & bed yourself. max 10$
145$
most expensive part is the XYZ router, all those linear rails, linear bearings, treaded rails etc. pushes up the price to 300-400$ (depending on how large you build it)
Hair spray! My god, Ben, where have you been!!
Thanks! I should try that!
Noticed in the video that all of your filament was exposed to air. Do you find moisture to be an issue when printing?
John-Paul Hopman That hasn't been a problem, but is something to think about.
The Ben Heck Show This is a very pressing issue. ABS absorbs some moisture, but PLA even more so, it was weird to see that you keep your PLA filaments in the open. When it gets old and humid and you try to use it, it crackles and pops when extruding, it can also extrude with a very irregular diameter and get stuck in the hotend. I use an iron cabinet with a drying lamp and a desiccant powder to keep my filaments healthy: i.imgur.com/Apu64XU.jpg
There are also some worries with dirt on the surface of the filament. Solid particles have a good chance of screwing up with the interior of the hotend. It is very advisable to use a simple filament cleaner like this one www.thingiverse.com/thing:263347
do you know how to fix a def error
Ben great video. What 3d printer do you recommend
Superglue + Baking soda = incredibly hard cement. I use this trick in a lot of my projects. Try it :)
Talcum powder and corn starch work well as fillers for superglue, too...
Scope-Eye video except the baking soda does not act as a filler, it actually reacts with the cyanoacrylate in the superglue and forms a polymer that is virtually unbreakable. This does not occur with the calcium carbonate of the talcum powder you mentioned. scienceline.ucsb.edu/getkey.php?key=459
Cláudio Sampaio Interesting... I may have to give that a try. Nevertheless I have found Super glue + talc to be a very valuable combination over the years. Nice filler, bonds well, pretty strong, carveable... I actually shied away from super glue + baking soda because I was worried the baking soda would still react with other things after the super glue had cured - potentially making it brittle over time. But it sounds like there's more to it than that. Thanks for the info!
You can print PLA without a heated print bed. Using blue painters tape/ glue sticks or a million other tricks. ABS requires a heated print bed. A heated print bed is nice for printing PLA but not required.
ABS gives off lots of fumes and should be printed in an open and ventilated area. PLA is suitable for a desktop printer and is generally assumed to be safer (jury is still out on that one though). For now, my printer sits on my desk a few feet away and I print PLA with no noticeable fumes.
Software doesn't need to be over simplified or overly complicated. Repetier Host was not mentioned in this review but it is fantastic for new to moderate printer users and is compatible with most 3D printers. It comes bundled with Slic3r and Cura Slicer so all you need is one download to cover your software kit. If you plan to design 3D prints, skip all the expensive softwares and go get Google Sketchup. It's free, awesome and all you need is the STL plugin for exporting from their online library.
The One Up. $199 small printer, can be upgraded to the Two up. The biggest downside is they both have a Y wobble and a gantry sag. The Y wobble is fixable with a printed part you can make as soon as you can print, the gantry sag can be fixed for about $10 in pulleys and fishing line or you can print a new gantry set up that uses stock parts
Two Up $279-$359 Large print bed FDM printer. Expect to spend another $20 for upgrade parts. Perfect for learning about 3D printing
are supports really that easy to break away ?
what are the consequences of using supports since you say you should use as few as possible.
THANKS!
Can you make a Miniature Torque converter
Thanks for information Ben. What about nozzle size of the extruder? Is 0.3 much better that 0.4? The 0.4 seems more common. Also, what size of filament to use. The 1.75mm size seems to be the most common for that? I'm working on a reprap 3d printer/cnc.
No tips on that? sigh
Molex 1701 1.75mm is better for almost all cases. It requires less drag from the extruder motor and it usually offers more accuracy. The first 3D printers came with 3mm filaments, but now almost every new one is using 1.75mm, so if you can choose, stick with 1.75mm.
One possible downside of 1.75mm compared to 3mm: it has a larger area relative to its volume than 3mm, and that means more of the filament is exposed to air. It absorbs more humidity and dirt. And since the hotend tube is smaller, the chances of hogging the hotend are greater. Hence, you have to take more care with storage of the filament (dry place, please) and you can also use a dirt remover close to the filament entry point - like that one: www.thingiverse.com/thing:263347
For the nozzle size, 0.4mm is the best compromise, but for certain types of filaments that have higher hardness or special components, a bigger hole may be required lest the hotend hogs. 0.6mm is the practicaly minimum for filaments like laywoo-d3 (imitation wood, actually PLA with wood powder) and polycarbonate. Also, as a rule of thumb, the diameter of the extruded filament should not exceed 80% of the nozzle size (so you shouldn't try to print with 0.4mm layers when using a 0.4mm nozzle).
Smaller nozzles sizes (like 0.2 or 0.3mm) allow finer control of the extruded filament and are nice if you extrude in very small resolutions like 0.1mm or 0.05mm very often. But when you double the resolution, you also double the time it takes for the print to complete, so it is usually not practical to print in such fine layer heights unless you print few and small things, or have a blazingly fast 3D printer.
You should not worry too much about that, though. The nozzle is one of the easiest parts of the 3d printer that you can replace. Most use a 6mm screw diameter for attaching to the heating block and when you change it, there is only one setting on the 3d printer software to change - nozzle size, and even if you don't, it does not affect the print at all (only volume calculations). So, if you plan to print using laywoo-d3 or polycarbonate just buy a 3d printer then afterwards order 0.6mm or bigger nozzles for it.
Thanks a lot for all the information.
What is respectable size area print ? I see some are 200mm or 7.8 inch. It is big enough ?
It all depends on what types of things you are interested in printing. Everyone always seems to want bigger. I would say you want a minimum of 6" in every axis, but again, bigger is better.
Hi how much does it cost to run a 3D printer? or how much electricity does it use? (equiverlent to another piece of technology?)
The filaments (plastic) are £14-20 a Kilogram
Dude is that an old Computer Renaissance mousepad you're using? I used to work there years ago, massive thumbs up if it is man lol.
+jsullivan05 Now that's a name I haven't heard in a while! That was my candy store for computer peripherals...
Ben, couldn't one use a 3d printer to set down a 'mask' on a PCB and then etch?
Has anyone ever tried this?
I need some help I have to sit there and carve out all my supports and I end up breaking stuff , I am new and only had my duplicator 4 for two days
I was thinking can you make a x-box 360 console on a x-box 360 controller with a hd screen, it will be cool!
What 3D printer is in the thumbnail