Perfect Daily Driver 6 - DIY Engine Block Prep
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- Basic block inspection, the do's and don'ts of cylinder honing, good general practices and all the reasons you'll be spending an entire week locked down in your garage.
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I agree about not trusting new parts. I've seen too many "Brand New" foreign made parts fail immediately, whereas the old ones were just fine and could be reused.
when it comes to parts and machine shops, it does help to ask around. Car clubs and car shows may expose you to those who've been around the block. Also, a mechanic who does fleet work may know the cheap stuff, but a mechanic who works on airplanes knows, an engine failure up there isn't solved by pulling over to the nearest cloud to wait for AAA :)
the other issue with new parts, is when the OEM changed spec mid season to save some cents per car built. I wanted to replace the EGR on a Ford a year ago, ordered up the system from Ford, and was fustrated with the fact it wasn't the same--my car had the valve mounted horizontally, the OEM factory-stamped part had it vertically.
Welcome to WTF Were They Thinking town, population you.
New
Never
Even
Worked
My man you understand that through time I've had so many brand-new Parts come in his failed parts when you run a business as long as I have and probably like you have you learn that
I just did a 350 engine rebuild, never did one before, allot of reading and took me about 6 months, but it ran and no leaks.
Nice! Congrats.
Nice job man... No better feeling than turning that key and hearing it roar to life. Makes all the countless hours of riding the front seat of the struggle bus worth it.
Nothing like that feeling after every Start...... Victory!! ... Peace
I got a 1970 350/300 sitting in a 70 Impala since 78, I wanna get started on. Drop into a 1992 S10. I guess I am trying to get over the LS naysayers. Seems like this 350 would be in the line with this build. Was rated at 380 ft. lb. of torque from factory. Downside it needs to be prepped for roller lifters since everyone is having such problems out of standard lifters recently... That and not knowing what was actually the problem with it running. Dad said it popped back through the carb one day at lunch on a cold start, and never ran right again. He put a new stock cam and a couple rebuild kits into the carb, to no prevail. Not sure if it was a thing of him being a Ford man, and or not being a good quadrajet man...
kram Null
If it had the problem before.
And you rebuild without diagnosing the problem chances are most likely you will have the same problem after the rebuild.
Sitting since ‘78
Could be good. Could be nightmare.
Hey come on! I'm from Bongosqueegie and all our piston rings are made and inspected by at least 13 year olds!
Love these types of vids keep em coming lol
We pride ourselves on only letting 4 and 5 year old sweep our floors...
@@kramnull8962 that's crazy talk. stick with the eight year olds.
they know their stuff & aren't smart enough to unionize just yet.
This man is a walking haynes manual. We appreciate the time you take to share your knowledge with us.
If he's a Haynes manual, I don't want any part of it.
To remove transmission:
1. Remove transmission.
*Installation is reverse of removal
@@superduty4556Chiltons
Haynes manuals for older cars are generally better than newer ones I find
Yes, thank you Tony!!
@@jamesplotkin4674 Much of the problems arose in the early to mid 80's. Remember when the big talk of gangs in NY was taking cars apart on the side of the road? After such reports. GM mainly but the auto industry all did their part, in manufacturing cars that were impossible to take apart on the fly. Which meant there was almost a specialized tool for every bolt on the car...
American V8's are the best. Years ago when I was 18, I rebuilt my 55 chevy 265 on my own with no prior experience. Had a machine shop do the valves, but I did the rest. Went together easy and worked great. Wish I still owned the car.
That's awesome.
Yes, you do. I was lucky and divorced first, lol..
A good friend of mine would start with a three blade type hone and finish with a dingleball for hash marks it worked good. And someone please send uncle tony a new drill cable that ones been through some shit!
Battle tested,Garage proven
chewed drill cables and gasoline sprayed around, what could go wrong? :) seriously, "safety is no accident", its a habit. Practice safety routines, and you never have to stop and think when cutting a corner, "is there something different from the last times i got away with doing this, something that's gonna bite me in the ass this time?"
no offense but why would you use gasoline as a cutting fluid when it ads no lubricity at all, at least use diesel or wd40
you are correct thats what i thought
william moreschini true dat
The last statement was the most important, Don't Trust New Parts... I said this 30 years ago when everything was leaving our country.. now with what is going on what do you think? Bring it back to our country and put people back to work and off of welfare. Quality parts by quality company's.
You think American's take jobs seriously? They are the ones that caused this fiasco to begin with... Couldn't make it to work, and always have excuses why they cannot do the job each and every day.... Kids kept them awake, yada yada yada...
I like the way you get right to the point. No loud music or bullshit, or showing how loud your tools are.
IMO, not replacing bearing shells is false economy.
tmackinator But then you get to make another video on how to replace main bearings in place in a couple of years
@@ma61king :)
Replacing good used bearings with Chinese bearings is false confidence.
REPLACE THE FREEZE PLUGS! Are you kidding me, even on a budget build you don't skip this. Yes, they may look fine on the outside but they can be rusted on the inside. You never know if a previous owner used water at some point instead of coolant. New freeze plugs are cheap and it sure is easier to replace them now versus when the engine is in the car.
Brass doesn't corrode anywhere like steel.
Steel plugs should be replaced at every overhaul. Brass may not have to be replaced.
Scott Kenny Correct, but these looked like they were all steel.
@@MrZdvy there was one brass freeze plug on the rear passenger side of the block.
The one that was replaced because it was leaking, after they dumped gallons of stopleak into the radiator.
first, they are core plugs to allow removal of the sand cores during the casting of the block. When water freezes, it doesn't look for a convenient exit plan. Second, you got proven right in a future video--there's a ton of trash behind the core plugs, they got removed, and there's a trip to the machine shop for cleaning in store. which will probably ruin the cam bearings as well.
The best plan for a budget build, is to double what you think it will take. That tends to cover Murphy's Law :)
Albert Gaspar that’s right😉👍
It’s Sad state of affairs when you trust a part that has 100000 miles on it over new ones.
If you have any bore taper "at all" within the travel of the piston those rings have been expanding and contracting on every rev. At some point you'll have a harmonic that induces flutter and could taper the lands. Toss 'em.
@@jamesplotkin4674 yep if u go through all that work why risk it and end up with the same thing that you started with
A few months ago, I drove 60 miles to a junkyard for an old used starter because I have way more confidence in that than a parts store rebuild.
You know the man that makes your new parts? Share his info.
Its to the point that if you order a Walbro pump from Walbro themselves, 7 outta 10 times you get an ebay 15$ knockoff
I bought a Walbro pump a couple of years ago and while the pump worked fine, the hose sold in the reseller’s kit was not immersion rated and it turned to dust inside the tank.
Uncle Tony word of the day: gack
We need to contact Mirriam-Webster. . . .
@@mortensen1961 Any filth that resides in noticeable amounts
I got Gak for Xmas in 91’ . It was goo that made fart noises
Curtis Btyant you, too, Curtis
That was an excellent episode of Uncle Tony's Garage. Not too long, not too short, informative, excellent attention to detail- this is a definite Goldilocks Episode- "Just Right"
Thank you
uncle tony can never make a video too long
I suggest a few minutes on using a tap, cleaning threads in through holes and blind holes, when to replace a bolt, and the importance of oiling the bolt threads and under the bolt head before torquing. I learned those last ones the hard way.
I wouldn't recommend using a tap on the engine, but would suggest using a thread chaser/restorer. While they are similar in design, a thread chaser won't remove as much medal from the threads and still clean out the junk. We want to keep as much of the original thread as possible.
Only apply oil to threads if it's called for. Lubricant changes the effective tension on a fastener for a given torque, if they want you to put in your head bolts dry and torque to say 100lbs adding lubrication and torque to that spec will result in an over torqued fastener.
@@wyattwunderlin4445 dont want a broken tap either
@@wyattwunderlin4445 in some cases, if you worry about where those shavings are going to drop, a little petroleum jelly in the gap between the "teeth" of that thread chaser, may be the ticket to catching the debris and pulling it out of the bolt hole easily.
Even if I don't have a tap , I'll make one by cutting a groove in a bolt.
I'm sure someones gonna yell and say dont use taps use thread chasers.
Make your own from old bolts.
When I was on Crazy Deans pit crew 1968 - 1971, we used the dingle berry for cross hatching quick piston changes in the pits. I worked primarily on the trans team (he used two top loaders and a main shaft eplacement in three passes) but spent a fair amount of time on engines as well. This was before the advent of engine machinists in the pits.
my dad was VERY picky about cleaning the bore before putting the engine together. dad would use an old fashion baby diaper to prove the bore is clean. your idea here?
ATF and toilet paper
diapers are a classic, but toilet paper is designed to break down so it doesn't clog a septic system like paper towels. On the flip side, Franz and other external oil filtration systems used to use plain toilet paper (dyed/patterned ones didn't work as well) rolled up as a filter, and fleet mechanics would swear the bearings stayed shiny.
ROLL UP YOUR WINDOWS!!! Love this series.
A great way to start your evening: a 19+ minute Uncle Tony video!
Well worth it!!
Yes, I'm glad I stumbled on to these videos. I've repaired my vehicles for close to 50 years and never heard things explained so well. Tony explains things better than the auto shop instructor I had in high school.
Even sending the block to a machine shop, there's still a ton of labor that ends up going into the block, if nothing else just in cleaning.
I feel bad for people who assume an engine comes back clean from the machine shop...
immikeurnot and I feel bad for people who assume a rebuild is done right in the first place. I can write a book about all the false promises and mistakes I’ve seen.
@1smokeydog1 do you actually go through and clean the block afterwards anyway?
Be kind to your machinist, don't drop a greasy lump with the sharp edges still in place. That's a great way to get back a product with the least amount of care put into it...since you delivered it that way. And yes, you have to clean it when you get it back--esp. when you're leaving in core plugs, bearings etc to save a buck.
I never paint the inside of a block (b/c the reasons never make sense--paint doesn't smooth rough cast iron as your eyes show you, rust doesn't occur inside sealed blocks since everything has an oil film on it, but when water does get in, it rusts the bearings too, so its time to rebuild anyway, if sand was a problem why don't all engines die of it--you'd think the OEM would do it to avoid warantee costs, why don't people paint their heads to get the same benefits they think they're getting, etc) , but if you're going to do it, that metal has to be clean of oil residue, parafin wax, etc or the paint isn't going to stick during heat and contraction cycles. Take out the sharp edges, knock off the slag, check for core shift that weakens areas of the block. Cleaning a block before you send it out, might show you a flaw that makes it not worth paying the machine shop to find it for you.
wait until you watch the upcoming videos...the core plugs come out, and there's a ton of garbage inside this block--enough to send it to a machine shop for cleaning.
@@DrewLSsix
Too much time invested to skip that , I clean em again after receiving it back.
*GREAT INFO FOR THE NEWBIES and a GOOD REFRESHER FOR THE OVER THE HILL RACERS*
Hey, Lets all talk in bold like a queer!!!!!!
@@rustybrowneye OKAY, LET'S PHUQING DO IT.
Some people's kids, sheesh
I sure wish this series was available 7 years ago....would have saved me a lot of headaches
This channel is all the stuff I needed to know and tried desperately to piece together as a teenager.
John Wilburn ya...7 years ago, I was 48!! Lol
@@cutl00sencHaha... you forgot how old you were for a minute there, didn't you?
this guy could star in a remake of the original planet of the apes with no make up tomorrow
It's lonely under that Bridge huh?? , Kiss your Mother ok, she didn't get what she wanted either, that's the breaks.. and make your own damn hot pocket would ya..
At Zero speaking from real life experience I see, dont try to redirect your own personal failures on me. but hey?, you tried.
@@markstephens8572 ....... how, I'll have to locate a burn kit somehow, I didn't realize you were this menacing, but That's my fault, I under estimated you Dale, .. in case your Ever in the Orange County California swing by the Bar Beach Girls.. first rounds on me , look for a white 68 Dodge Dart.. and again I apologize for assuming your a Troll, because of your comment about Uncle Tony's.. looks.. your probably some crazy badass that just gets away with making fun of people, p.s. I'm more of a pizza roll type.. Peace Dude...
At Zero underestimated is one word, your (is possessive) you’re(you are) how can the “first rounds” be on you? as there is only one round in the first round. if you’re gonna try to be cool, and rescue UT, who doesnt need rescuing? atleast be good at trying to troll me, your anti troll game, like your 68 dart is weak. but if nothing else? you’re entertaining. and alot of people love the planet of the apes movie, so it could be considered a compliment, that UT looks like he could be cast in the plane of the apes with no makeup.
@@markstephens8572 bully.... I knew better.. p.s. look out for Jon Redcorn..
did i hear you right when you said you found a lot of silicone and stop-leak, i would think you would take out all the freeze plugs to be sure you get it all out. ps love your videos
wait til you see the future videos....the oddball core plug is a clue something was wrong with the block. The lesson is, as you said, don't be cheap and try to save the core plugs by not removing them. The block's going to the machine shop to get cleaned, and i'll bet those cam bearings are getting taken out, too. "Cheap" is always a gamble.
One thing unk doesn't mention here. Novice guys buying swap meet engines. Hear that scuffy sound when he's moving the ring in the bore? That's what a freshly honed engine sounds like. If it's smooth sounding, it's used or the guy that built it doesn't know shit from shinola. If the seller won't let you turn it over, RUN. If the blocks been welded on, RUN. We have a huge car show here every spring. The volume of junk engines for sale baffles me.
Quality and honesty are old school. Very sad, but true. Greed for money is the current normal.
Yes, you do freak me out using gasoline as a honing fluid.
A Ring job. Not exactly precision. Your hone is a joke. It is not a fixed stone hone it is spring loaded. But it will do as good a job as using sandpaper. It will run for a good long time but not forever. Take out all the oil galley plugs and run metal rods through them to knock the chunks out. Do this even if you have it cleaned by a machine shop.
LOL still have my three-bladed Ridge reamers they are my antiques on my glass Shelf love your enthusiasm dude God bless signing off
That glaze breaker hone you use is ok but I prefer a more rigid unit like a Lisle. The glaze breaker style has a habit of following the contour of the bore, the irregularities that is. Freeze plugs, I always remove them. 1) they may be rusted nearly through & show no sigh of leakage. 2) Removal will allow you to thoroughly clean the coolant passage inside the block. There is usually a bunch of crud hiding at the bottom of the water jacket. MoPar truck blocks are made of high nickel iron and are very rigid & durable, you ain't gonna distort the freeze plug bores. Never had a leak problem after replacing them.
No Chinesem if not necessary!!!
they use the ridge reamers for that extra blow by HP lol
10 extra pounds of boost from the bottom end...
Correct. The blow by is used in addition to exhaust gas, to turn the turbo for those extra ponies!
Another known trick when I was a kid we used to take freeze out plugs and put gasket sealer on the back of them to make them last longer cuz we didn't have brass freeze out plugs
,,, worst tool in the industry . If it needs a ridge reamer the pistons are junk, and the block has to go the next .030 .
What, that's it? Surely your OCD cant be done nor my OCD satisfied. There must be more block work coming.
Basically what tony is saying that if it aint broke dont fix it! Unless you are doing a high dollar build you likely dont need to replace anything that isnt worn
@@kennedy796 , maybe that's true. Idk if you speak for him or not. He sure went through the RG block and was hoping for more of the same.
boy there sure is! in a future video, the plugs came out, too much trash was found, and a trip to the machine shop for cleaning is in the plan. But its a lesson for us all----"budget" is a gamble.
Don't matter the make .. just take your time and pay attention and make everything as clean as possible. And just watch uncle Tony's garage.. u will be fine.
Never reuse rings !!! Sorry UT I have to disagree on that one . Never seen a problem with Hastings rings .
The entire stones on that hone were never completely touching the surface of the cylinder wall with that much of a ridge in the cylinder
Good point about the grinder. some weld together an old truck driveshaft and drum brake to make a stand that can be rolled in and out of place. Another tip for when you're removing metal from a part...a rare earth magnet, placed in the path of the chips, will collect a few of them so you aren't chasing them down during cleaning. If you're grinding near a water passage (let's say), put some shaving cream in--it can catch the particles and then get flushed out easily.
Bearings: there's a lot of debate over sanding them versus not. For most things in life, a safe rule is..."when it doubt, throw it out". The dollars you spend now could be dollars you don't spend at the side of the road. But if you've done a ton of engines, you can make a good judgement call.
Ridge at the top of the cylinder: its true until you clamp a head on it--that's why a torque plate is used in boring, to replicate the distortion. And if you're running an aluminum block, the distortion gets so bad a good machinist wants the main caps, timing chain cover, bell housing, even the starter on for some designs. Some blocks, like Pontiacs, screw the heads not into the deck surface, but the walls of the block itself, and so some will skip a torque plate in those builds. Of course, there are those who also want to run coolant thru the block, get it up to heat so its at full expansion--but cutting away metal is also causing a heating issue in the block. When you use gasoline, be in a well-ventilated area--there's a reason why Pintos and side saddle GM trucks had an issue :)
For those who are finicky, a torque plate should also be applied to the head when doing major surgery like new hardened valve seats. Dealing with an obscure engine with no torque plate? fake it with a stack of washers or a wrist pin to replace the height of the torque plate, and then torque it to spec around the cylinder you're operating on. Great when you're messing with the rings, and excellent point about the light gap around the ring. when some install a piston, they'll hook up a fish scale to the large end of the rod to test how many pounds of pull it takes to move that piston to BDC.
I wondered if using stacks of washers would work at mimicking a torque plate. Now that I know someone's tried it and it works, I'm gonna' do it!
My father's V8 318 will be a breeze to rebuild thanks to your efforts here. I cannot thank you enough for all this.
Hey Tony i come from East Bongo Squigee!! ha ha That was a new one for me, thanks for the video.
Man I get stupid excited for these videos. It’s my prep to rebuild an engine for the first time
that is a great idea. every time i use mine i make a mess of my work bench
A few other helpful tips, if you do replace the cam bearings, use an installation tool, don't try to use anything else. Cam bearings are typically numbered for the position they go in with the front one being no. 1. Make sure you align the oil holes on the bearings with the passages, a puff from an air hose through the oil passage will help verify it didn't slip as you installed it. Always, always, always trial fit your camshaft to make sure it goes all the way in before you assemble anything else. I've seen the crush on the I.D. enough to keep the cam from going in. If you've already assembled the bottom end, you have to take it all back apart to fix that bearing.
I don't know why I never considered the ID crush might be enough to block the cam! I told the machinist I'm gonna be taking my block to that I'm using a stock cam and just need stock bearings put in, and was wondering why he stressed that I need to make sure to bring the cam with the block when I drop it off. I just figured "prob just wants to verify fitment" and left it at that, without considering specifics. Thanks for sharing that.
@@screwsinabell I've had to take 2 back apart, it isn't common but it does happen.
Looks like its running hot on the stand...😂
wait'll you see the future videos...there was certainly a coolant issue with this engine, once the core plugs finally got pulled out. but its going to be a lesson for new folks watching this series, as the problems get fixed. This is where "budget" results in, "double the budget you planned for the repair"
Never used gasoline, but we normally hone with diesel as lubricant
if you had a drill cord like this one, you probably were smart not to use gas in a confined, poorly ventilated spot :)
If there's enough ridge where you have to use a ridge reamer to get the Piston out than it absolutely has to be bored out!
Hey Tony,
i bought a LA360 over the winter and I tore it down this afternoon just to follow along with
your "Perfect Daily Driver" series. This is my first build and I
just wanted to say thanks for all your videos and sharing the knowledge, your the best man.
Badass.. Mopar Everyday and Everywhere
A little ole lady Unk?
Like the little ole lady from Pasadena?
Wait back to work?
They lifted the lock down in your state?
Hi Uncle Tony, my dad once said, the best key to dig your ear with was an early 80s Chrysler key, said it was designed not to damage the ear canal.....i know, wtf right
the best key is always...someone else's :) unless your ignition cylinder is sticking, and you just wanted to kill two birds with one stone--lube the cylinder and find the brain on-switch :)
The best key is an 89 Hyundai Excel key..... uh, in theory.
Thanks for the 19 minutes of class and also the tips.....uncle tony 👍
My horror story,Sbc have the 3 oil galley Allen head bolts on the back of the block around the cam plug , I only tightened 2 of them after a block clean and rebuild, put the motor in obviously leaked like a siv had to pull it right back out, the wife asked didn’t you just put that in,ya 2 times in 1 day.
Clearly this is a UTG imposter... biggest giveaway? No cigarette.
Here's a tip from the port city kid ( me)eastcoast to ya.my favorite tool is a electric leaf blower I use mine to blow everything out from gas lines filters aircleaners to the whole garage ECT.leaving the door open all kinds of dirt dust will blow in a at the end of the day I blow it all back out. I took all kinds of odds a ends attachments a made them fit on the blower.( simple clean easy cheap a threw my vac in the corner.even blow the vehicles off inside a out before entering garage.( try it you'll like it.!
Why does using gas as a lubricant scare me???
How many cams is this engine going to require? 😷
I actually bought 2 blocks that someone ridge rimmed and they done it so deep that even at .060 over there was still marks from it
Always valuable content in your videos. I’m gonna try and find some new old stock for my build.
My father worked at a truck shop in the 1940's , on gasoline powered Brockways, and all the guys were told when they were hired..if you have a ridge reamer in you tool box, fine.....just don't ever take it out.
I want to build a inline 6 cylinder or 4 cylinder I feel like it's a good for first timers whats yall opinion
I own a 6 and 8.. started with slant6.. my real opinion would be anything is better then nothing to break in your wrench skill and mind.. and enjoy it.. Peace
Hunt back through UTG's videos, there's a series much like this, rebuilding a 'not so engine savvy' guy's slant 6
Better still, the link to episode 1:
th-cam.com/video/85xMre6QS5Y/w-d-xo.html
Go for it. Really though, there's very little extra to building a V8. The principles are all the same. Build whatever it is your car needs.
@@johnwilburn I plan too I just got to find a 0lace to store it and save enough money for the budget
I’m pulling for you! It will be a great experience.
I agree i like to do as much of the work as I can b/c i have more time then money lol.
THERE IS A TRICK TO THE CAM BEARINGS ON THE FE ENGINES THAT RUN OVER 6500 RPM'S THAT SAVES THE LOWER END TOO .
Let us in on the secret, I have a 390 im looking to play around with
THE TRICK IS TO USE CAPS LOCK. WORKS EVERY TIME.
@@instantninja1 MAKE OIL RESTRECTIONS FOR THE HEADS . 5/16 SCREW GRIND ON OPPOSITE SIDES ABOUT 1/2 " LONG .DROP IN ROCKER ARM OIL HOLE . GET A HARDENED OIL PUMP DRIVE SHAFT , MATCH THE MAINS TO THE BLOCK HOLES BY CAREFULLY GRINDING .DRILL OIL HOLE IN BLOCK TO MATCH THE OIL PUMP GASKET . ENLARGE THE HOLE IN THE FRONT OF THE BLOCK ABOVE THE TIMING CHAIN . MATCH THE OIL FILTER ADAPTER TO THE BLOCK . YOUR CHOICE ON OIL PUMP ,PICKUP AND YOU CAN USE A WINDAGE TRAY ALSO ADD AN EXTRA QUART BY USING THE TRAY NO PROBLEM . THAT SHOULD HELP KEEP THINGS TOGETHER . I LIKE TO USE STUDS ON THE MAINS AND HEADS . I BETTER QUIT OR I'LL BE HERE ALL NIGHT
NPR, hastings, total seal, and Mahle all make good piston rings. Also for main/rod bearings I only use King brand or ACL.
Im not so sure about new parts either seen alot of bad camshafts in. The last few years if i remember correctly you recently got a bad one too
I've seen several mainstream TH-cam channels that are having issues with cam lobes, mainly from lifter problems.
originally, the issue was a lack of zinc in modern engine oils, due to its incompatability with catalytic converters.
@@albertgaspar627 yea i forget about that
@@moparmatt5896 its hard to keep up to all the details about this issue. is it the oil, is it cheap parts, is it poor quality along the line.
@@albertgaspar627 to many variables isnt it bro
@8:01 , That's proof that nature was trying to turn your engine into a mouse motor 😃....... personally I blame squirrels 🐿 😎
This Series is super helpful Boss.. Thanks Always Uncle Tony and Auntie Kathy.. Oi oi oi
Looking forward to all the engine builds.
i thought the reason for ridge reaming was because over time the ring became rounded and putting in a new ring (having a square shoulder) would hit the ridge..breaking the ring..
That is what "they" say. But, I am here to tell you, I have built MANY engines exactly as UT outlines here. Never used a ridge-reamer in my life. Also never broken a piston ring. As a matter of fact, I pieced a 318 together from 6 engines one time to get a plow-truck running in a pinch. Exactly how UT would have done it. Picked the best used parts from those 6 pretty much identical engines. I even broke the golden rule of mixing up lifters/lobes. That was in 1996, and my Dad's neighbor plows his 1.5 mile long driveway all winter long to this day with that truck. Most of the sheetmetal is long-gone. Countless U-joints. At least one tranny rebuild. I don't think there is a single inch of factory wiring left in that truck ('84 W250). But, that engine is still going.
@@wheelieking71 Well the actual thing with the ridge wasn't breaking the ring, it was cracking a ring land... Many people change pistons anyways so they never know if they messed anything up or not. This engine was a mere 100,000 mile engine tops. I'd like to tear into my Dads 360 sitting in the shed and see what it looks like at the top. 250,000 miles. Those miles were put on in the 60's-80's so the oil was crap compared to today. Another thing, ridge reamers actually had a depth adjustment. Didn't have to bore the top of the block to .030 over if ya didn't want to...
Now that I think about it.. that was written on the ring package..
That's what I've read
Reusing pistons rings... never thought. Too much goofiness going on with new parts, hes right.
I didn't have a light, so I used a match. Now I don't have any eyebrows
Hey I know your trying to keep it simple and I know I’m an IH guy, but I make some of your “guess feel work simple for a 35$ tool is n ENGIN BUILD DIY 345 IH (part 1 of 2). ENGIN BUILD DIY 345 IH (part 1 of 2)
tony..you gunna show us how to clean up the crank journals...and clean and resurface the deck of the block?
All good tips no doubt about that. Literally everything you do and use in the shop is similar to the methods and techniques i was shown and use today. Great work Tony keep it up🖒
Glad to hear you mention a FE !
There is no finer engine!
@@413x398: Unless you have to change the plugs or starter on an FE-equipped Mustang or Cougar. . . .
@@mortensen1961 Been there done that. You need to have a few different combinations of ratchets and extensions and u-joints. You cannot do the job with your one "typical" combo.
@@413x398 Sounds like you are good at shooting pool with your ratchet and extension...
@@kramnull8962 I drove CJ and 390 cars regularly for years. Still have all of them.
hey U T..i heard the 71-73,, 360 blocks were cast on the 340 casting,making it extra thick..is this true?
I have a 70 LA 360 in my Valiant Hardtop and it has been bored out 60 thou, had the bores ultrasonic tested for thickness and they were still plenty thick enough.
No. Thicker than a 78 block, not by much at all if any.
I’ve always heard that, but sonic checks show they aren’t appreciably thicker. The way I evaluate a block to start with is to look in the lifter valley and try to see how much core shift it has. Any healthy 360 block is a good foundation.
@@johnwilburn isnt there a -dash number as part of casting number that tells you how many uses the mold had, and therefore potential shift??? The memory is getting foggy... But I probably read it in one of Tonys articles from 25yrs ago lol...
@@wheels-n-tires1846 What you're thinking of is the core casting index number. It follows the cubic inch designation on the driver's side of the engine block. The factory started with one mold for each side and replaced individual cylinders as they wore out/deemed out of service. A block with 340 - 2 has a virgin mold. A 340 - 5 has had three of the cylinders replaced. A 318 - 10 has had all of them replaced. Theoretically, it makes no difference as the replacement cylinders are installed "straight," but they can each have a little shift. Also, theoretically, the shifts, even when a "stacked tolerance," shouldn't prevent any reasonable overbore. In practice, however, we look at each block not only for obvious shift, but where is the shift. Major thrust area? Minor thrust area? It's possible for a core shift to be helpful, but don't count on it. So, in the end, it's either sonic check or just stay within what we know is safe enough.
I know this konda off the subject but hows that slant 6 running/doing in that guys car since you had them rebuild it? Also what size ring gap do you recoment for basic rebuild or performance ? Wouldnt the old ring be weak/brital due to heting and cooling continuesly ? Also are you reusing the pistons ? Should a person reuse old stock pistions? Would they be weak as well?
I sure didn't have enough time to learn from this professor.
LQ4 block, bent rods from (I'm guessing hydrolock), work truck and a $900 budget. Now a misfire from the 2 damaged cylinders. I wouldn't been able to bore anyway. The machine shops were backed up.😔 I needed to get back to work.
Just because it is a NEW part doesn't mean it is proven. Good video, i'm wanting to build my son a duster on a budget, OD 4 speed and roller 318 or 360. Thanks for the video!
Ok. I’m in a rebuild of a 79 F150 302 that didn’t burn oil or has ever been worked on. So far I’ve found bad timing chain, vibration damper, bad driver side motor mount and very minor water intrusion. I think the water came via head gasket. The crank bearings look good. Thrust bearing looked rough probably due to the bad damper. Cam bearings were showing copper. Cylinder wall near no ridge. I’m looking to put in new con rod bearings, main and cam bearings. Right now engine is completely disassembled. With the current issue with hydraulic lifters. I don’t know. Pushrods look great. What do you recommend?
RE: Ridge reamers... At least as of 1999 Ford was still putting a step in the engine disassembly portion of the factory service manual to run a ridge reamer on each cylinder before trying to remove the piston. I recently disassembled a 4.0l v6 from a 1999 Ford Ranger, heavily used, no ridge at the top of any cylinder at all, so I wondered what they were going on about. I had no problems removing the pistons from that engine.
But, suffice to say that people are still using them at least in part because the manufacturers are still making a recommendation to do so. Not that I believe a whole lot of things that the manufacturers say.
I've heard that there is a situation where a ridge ream is necessary...a guy scored a nice 455 Pontiac that was never revved past 4,000 rpm...but he swapped in a new cam and started regularly shifting it at 5,500+....aparently that was enough for the ridges to break a bunch of top rings.
I love a motor on a shoestring.
Every build has a budget.
Dollar per horsepower Chevy was the best build. Then there was the practicality about how much horsepower you had was actually going to be applicable. Power to weight ratio, traction coefficients, weight transfer, how much can you get to actually hook up. Small car big motor with posi and cheater slicks. Hi 12 + low 13s. Nowadays if you start with a good core and you take it to a machine shop for $1,800 it comes back clean, balanced, in a bag and boxes, ready to be assembled. I'm in California. Then there's fuel once you go past 10.5 fuel is $10. And then?
Just rebuilt the rear drums on a 81 Cordoba
Needed new break cylinders
Bought some "quality " "America " ones from the parts store
Made in china
Breaks wouldn't bleed
Not only were the bleed screws wrong size, shit machining (im a machinist) threaded off angle, bleed hole was a 1/4 the size of an original "made in America " Chrysler part, but they leaked.
After fucking around for 2 days with this junk i took original ones off my 1979 9-1/4 diff, cleaned them up and installed them
Bleed the breaks in 15 min
Haven't had an issue since
When I was a youngster Back in the early 90s I bought a SBC it had an Eddy intake I was like cool but it said sp2p I had no idea what it was or even what I was looking at I was self taught no mentor so I called Edelbrock and asked the said a low rpm mpg intake from gas crunch no good for performance. I sold it to a dub head who insisted it was for performance even tho I told him. I wish I'd kept it for a small displacement off-road build like 305, toss a qjet, Tq cam, diy head work (to boost efficiency) small valve heads In say a Jeep CJ or Cherokee you could crawl up the grand canyon at idle!
Uncle Tony I just subscribed to your channel I like your old school ways . I'm building a daily driver motor for my jeep.but it's a 4.3 v6 no balance shaft . Thanks for all you do. ED in west virginia. 👍
I feel you on the "fucking idiots in the comments!" UT! This is good ole' real world how-to stuff, that fucking works! Too many motherfuckers have watched too much Motor-Trend, and think they know how to build an engine. I have watched all your videos, and not once have I seen you spew anything but truths about what actually works. Gasoline as a cutting fluid for honing is a perfect example! Why does it work? Because it is a solvent. It washes the swarf out of and away from the stones so that they remain clean and can do their job and cut the iron. Kerosene works great as well. But, who has a jug of kerosene laying around all the time? Everybody has a lawn-mower.
Uncle Tony, I love you like a brother, but you teaching the guys wrong on the top ridge ring grove cutter, since I can't draw it, I am gonna have to explain it, so please bare with me. Cast iron auto blocks or aluminium lawn mower engines wear the block the most at the top of the cylinder, the top compression ring wears the top of the ring from a square sharp edge to a radius,, the block is also worn a radius, if you do not cut this radius the new sharp square ring is gonna cut it for you, breaking rings, ring grooves and damaging pistons! enter the Ammco 2100 ridge reamer, also the Ammco 3800 cylinder hone has a middle anchor to the hone stones and a second leg to hold the stones parallel. They are two must have items in any mechanics toolbox. You can clean a ring groove with an old broken ring if you are gentle, but it would be insanity to not cut the ridge out of the top of an engine block unless there is so small a top ring grove that you hone it away. You also do not explain the idea of a loose race motor using a slightly oversized bore with standard rings, what we call a Poor boy race motor. You cut the ring groove, hone the cylinders, the bore is slightly oversized, or to the top of the limit the book gives. You run standard rings and you loose a little compression at the top of the cylinders, the motor is gonna use some oil, but its gonna be loose, and like the NASCAR boys say, Loose is FAST! Theoretically it would be the same as boring it 0.030 over or 0.060, all new pistons and using low tension oil rings and instead of lasting 75,000 it may only last 60,000. Do you know about measuring the bore in 6 places with inside micrometer? cock, rock and lock? Did you know that rings rotate while and engine is running? The rings follow the hone pattern and actually rotate on the piston the first part of an engines life. Something that works in racing motors is a tiny hole squirting oil from the top side of the connecting rod, when the crankshaft oil hole comes around TDC it is aimed to the oil ring and it squirts oil up under the ring, sealing all the rings, Its a tiny metered hole so you do not loose oil pressure to the bearings, its on all Toyota Motors and helps cool the pistons and adds to ring life. High end Ford Y blocks I seen where Mr.Dorton makes squirters connected to pressurized lines he runs like a plumber, but I am getting way out there now. if you can snag your fingernail on a top ring grove, its enough to break ring lands and rings, I was sqweezing tangerines and had to stop and go wash my hands, I just could not let this injustice go further...Look up vintage tools, ammco 2100 ridge reamer, Ammco 3800 hone, the one that is on Google now is the lisle 15000 hone, they both do the same thing. I can see some kid spraying that 100hp bottle of Nitrous on a standard bore motor and breaking all the ring lands because he didn't cut the top ring groove out, wondering what he had done wrong. if it ain't there it can't hit it and break stuff..
I think your drill is spinning way too fast to hone cylinders properly. What is the angle of your crosshatch pattern? If I remember right it supposed to be around 45 degrees or so.
Oh yeah, change that drill cord! Your cutting fluid plus a small arc will equal big boom! Actually, I'm surprised the arcs from the brushes haven't ignited it yet.
How you doing my man Tony a boon to shop for over 45 years now not working anymore due to bad Health however hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of Motors in cars I pulled tricks off that nobody could believe but everything he said it's pretty damn accurate and I just want to see success for you I subscribed and I want to see everybody listen to you because pretty spot-on have a great day I think you're a good good Channel that's all I got to say have-a-nice-day Tony
If you are staying at or damn near original specifications please don't say "over bored to..." and list orig specs. Resurfaced, cleaned up, rehoned are more accurate statements. Thanks.
?Do you reverse drill for equal passes to mimic the insane crosshatch surface specs (un-named employer) required or was I just that lucky?
Uncle Tony's Garage. Tony, Please explain the ring vs daylight exercise more. You explained how to do the procedure, but not what to do with the results. You do a light hone, check it for daylight. Then what? Is that good? Bad? If you see light, keep honing till you don't? At what point when honing do you realize you need to bore it? Thanks.
Seriously? ....CAPTAIN SAFETY says, replace the cord on that jenky drill.
Will you please make a brief video titled "Do Not Use Ridge Reamers!" Because i really wish i knew that before i used one and bought stock pistons for my 351c
Hey about the copper thing ,I got a engine with some copper showing in rod bearings. No bearing noise ,engine runs well ,good oil pressure but the rod bearings in the caps do show copper. Why is that? Talking about a chrysler 3.5 v6 EGG. In Europe its hard to get american rod bearings so preventive maintenance is not easy. Is that normal? All people I asked said thats caused by revving the engine hard.Its weird for a engine that always had oil changes every 3000 miles and there is zero sludge or brown anything inside....clean as new.
The core plug you want to replace no matter how it looks...the one that will end up hiding behind the starter. Once everything is installed and in the car, finding it leaks is a real PITA. Also plugs in the back of the block--if you have a clutch, you don't want a leak.
Love your videos UT. I just discovered you recently, but you make a lot of sense! Great work!
I haven’t done this in years! I’d like to pick up a 302 for a fox body or possibly a 350 for a G-Body Malibu.... leaning more towards a Mustang.
One thing not mentioned is after cleaning, give it a good visual inspection for possible cracks in the web area.
One thing important to me with the LA engine is removing all the rear block plugs to clean out the bores. Remember to put new plugs back in. Also my mopar engine bible says to properly build an engine it takes about 8 hours a day for 30 days. Just making sure the rings are correct takes a lot of boring time. Plasta gauge is another crucial that takes time. Do it right with the best you can afford. I never ever hone lifter bores either.
You're the first person I've ever come across that's said do not use a ridge reamer. Every book and manual Ive read says use one..even my instructors back in tech school decades ago said that.. why. Cause new rings will hit the ridge and break them. I guess if you're reusing the old rings, which is another first I've heard , then I guess...guess ...it would be alright.. maybe... so long as it's on the same piston on the same ring land in the same bore in the same clock position ..because the edges are wear mated.. even though you can't see or measure that...or so I've been taught .....that is assuming that ring didn't break when knocking the piston out of the bore past the ridge..and taking it out of the piston and putting it back on with the proper ring tool. Not trying to sound like a know it all and I must have missed it, but I didn't hear you mention checking bore taper by measuring the ring gap in different positions in the bore. Or checking ring gap on new rings to make sure they are correct in case they were mispackaged in the wrong box.
But I certainly agree sbout the questionable metalurgy in new parts now considering where they are made and who operates the machinery manufacturing them.
I've always used the dingle ball hone to finish hone after using that long hone tool there. Gasoline as a hone lube? Man that's living on the edge brother.
Anyway, I very much enjoy your vids..even an old dog like me that's been doing this 32 plus years can learn or relearn a trick or two. Love the bench grinder/ wire wheel on the desk table idea..sitting down while cleaning a buncha bolts and such looks much easier on the back compared to standing in the same spot for a while doing that.
Don't trust new parts ........ so much truth when concerning many brands of new parts . If you find a great local parts person , stick with them and them only .