Another walk in the woods brought results. Today a very old and rusty axe is being restored. Thank you for watching. I hope you will like it. Leave your comments!
Where is everyone learning to hang an axe with a huge shelf on it? That abrupt cut in where the axe sits means all the force of your swing stays in the head and its going to snap and go flying off with extended use or harder woods or knots, it should be a gradual transition. If it's just for aesthetics I get it but that's a solid chopping head so may as well hang properly.
Very nice! There are a lot of idiots commenting here though. Most of us realize that if you find something in the woods, and plan to make a video about the restoration, it is part of the entertainment to go back and film a recreation, for the sake of the video. Good work!
Топор попал к хорошему мастеру и в надежные руки : он из ничего конфетку сделает: все делает по уму ладно и складно , народный умелец , такому все по плечу....
This is the method of hardening with self-tempering. After cooling only the blade, the axe is taken out of the water and the colors are checked for reheating from the remaining uncooled part. Then it is cooled definitively. As far as I can judge, the hardening was successful.
Sorry, but you lost me when you ground out all the wonderful patina. You took all its previous history and life from it… shame. By all means clean up the cutting edge and the top face, then perhaps wire brush the rest and cold blue it?!
@@whyduck9054 I know right? When I saw all that awesome texture, I thought it would look gorgeous blackened with cold blue with a nice polished edge… then the “evil grinder” came out and all the decades of charm disappeared in a matter of seconds 🤷♂️
Thank you, that's a very interesting idea. I will definitely use it in a suitable project. The only thing confusing is that the "cold blue" starts to rust again after a while, especially in the cavities.
I have an old small axe head I found in my dad's cellar. it's all rusty and not as heavily pitted as this one is. wire brush and cold blueing is what I'll do to it besides fitting a new handle
It's more likely that the cooling rate has an effect here. For the initial stage, the oil cooling rate is not enough for carbon steel, but enough for alloy steels. So there is a way to first cool the blade in water, then the whole axe in oil. Or this way as in the video. This method was suggested to me by an old craftsman.
Tempering with self-tempering is widespread in tool production. The peculiarity of this method is that tempering of the product occurs due to the heat remaining in the inner layers after hardening. Practically the hardening with self-tempering is done in the following way. The tool is heated to the hardening temperature, kept at that temperature for the necessary time and then only the working part of the tool is submerged in water. After being removed from the water the tool is left in the air until the working part of the tool is heated to the tempering temperature. The tool is heated by the heat of the part of the tool that has not been immersed in water. The tool is then finally cooled in water or oil. The tempering temperature is determined by the annealing colors by deburring a part of the tool's working surface. Appearance of the color of whiteness during tempering is explained by the fact that at temperatures of 200-300° on a clean polished and ground surface there appear thin layers of oxides.
@@OldRusty Thanks for the explanation. I watch a lot of restoration videos, and most other people quench in oil. My understanding is that water shocks the metal, which is why you see metal flaking off in the water during the quench, whereas oil allows the metal to cool more slowly, thus being a better hardening choice for quenching. Also, the blackening process when quenching in oil is more even and a superior rust proofing, as opposed to the splotchy result from the quench in water. If quenching in water works for you, great, but most other people who make these types of videos use oil.
Sweet axe!!😮
Beautiful , glad you found it and saved it to use again.
There's something so satisfying about electrolysis.
Great job. Thanks for the video.
BEAUTIFUL !!🙂👍
Nicely done.
Nice job 👍
terrific job!
Hey. Nice video! Good luck with your channel...👆
Where is everyone learning to hang an axe with a huge shelf on it? That abrupt cut in where the axe sits means all the force of your swing stays in the head and its going to snap and go flying off with extended use or harder woods or knots, it should be a gradual transition. If it's just for aesthetics I get it but that's a solid chopping head so may as well hang properly.
nice job
GREATE RESTORATİON.👌
Wow you did a wonderful job
Отличная работа! И от души всё делается
GREAT💌💛👌👍⭐💯
That's what i call "reborn". Great restoration bro.. 👍👍
Enjoyed this very much
Very interesting sounds 👍
Good job
Very nicely done 👍 I liked the sound effects.
Great job on that handle also 👍👍👍👍👍👍
greate axe!
Super jest to odrestaurowane pozdrawiam twórcę tego filmiku serdecznie 👍👍👍👍
Это Супер! Мне нравится!
У топора была старая, интересная, живая текстура но вы стёрли ее😥
Echt schönes Video. Finde es toll das mal was erhalten und nicht weggeworfen wird. Danke!
Probably never looked that good when it was originally made!
Beautiful axe beautifully restored good job well done mister
Nice 👍
Super Job Man !
Great job!!!
Very nice!
There are a lot of idiots commenting here though. Most of us realize that if you find something in the woods, and plan to make a video about the restoration, it is part of the entertainment to go back and film a recreation, for the sake of the video.
Good work!
YOU are right, Thanks for the comment!
A recreation shows us the origins of the project. Thanks again, I enjoyed this video. @@OldRusty
Отличная работа и отличный топор получился, даже лучше чем новый!!!
Кацапам бошки колоть пойдёт.
It looks great!!
Enjoyed your video and I gave it a Thumbs Up for support
Nice done sir :)
Excelente trabajo 👍y el mango muy bonito👍saludos desde Venezuela ciudad de Maracaibo
Gracias, es muy agradable de escuchar
VERİ NİCE.👌👍⭐💯
Magnificent!
Ficou show
amei ficou top
This restoration came out so fantastic. Beautiful curves on the ax. Good job! 👍
Thx, it`s very kind of you.
@@OldRusty Awesome work. My compliments.
0:40 Worm: "Ow! Just drop an axe on my head why don't you!?" 😓 😅
Работа со стамеской супер!!!!!!
Сколько пальцев на руке?
Nice axe but it would have been better if you were able to keep the original hammer marks. A lot of the original’s charm was lost.
Топор попал к хорошему мастеру и в надежные руки : он из ничего конфетку сделает: все делает по уму ладно и складно , народный умелец , такому все по плечу....
A perfect video on how to not use the tools or the right ones.
Super job fitting that handle. Did you only harden or did you harden and temper? Did the temper take?
This is the method of hardening with self-tempering. After cooling only the blade, the axe is taken out of the water and the colors are checked for reheating from the remaining uncooled part. Then it is cooled definitively. As far as I can judge, the hardening was successful.
Just happened to dig it up by chance with the camera playing? hahaha
Я думаю, что этот топор, ни когда не был таким гладким и блестящим!!!
Could have done without the fake metal detecting at the beginning but otherwise nice video.
Пескоструй тебе в помощь!
как бы ты не пытался это скрыть. Но ты 3 раза спалился что ты русский)))
Allways found hahaha
Sorry, but you lost me when you ground out all the wonderful patina. You took all its previous history and life from it… shame. By all means clean up the cutting edge and the top face, then perhaps wire brush the rest and cold blue it?!
I agree with you. Axe lost his soul :(
@@whyduck9054 I know right? When I saw all that awesome texture, I thought it would look gorgeous blackened with cold blue with a nice polished edge… then the “evil grinder” came out and all the decades of charm disappeared in a matter of seconds 🤷♂️
Thank you, that's a very interesting idea. I will definitely use it in a suitable project. The only thing confusing is that the "cold blue" starts to rust again after a while, especially in the cavities.
I have an old small axe head I found in my dad's cellar. it's all rusty and not as heavily pitted as this one is. wire brush and cold blueing is what I'll do to it besides fitting a new handle
Drop it in coca cola over night.
🧐🤨🤔 why quench in water is better quench it in oil instead because water make it more brutal to break or cheap you don't think?
It's more likely that the cooling rate has an effect here. For the initial stage, the oil cooling rate is not enough for carbon steel, but enough for alloy steels. So there is a way to first cool the blade in water, then the whole axe in oil. Or this way as in the video. This method was suggested to me by an old craftsman.
@@OldRusty 😯hooo!! Okey got it ☺️ thanks 👍
Was it just me or was the beginning of the video kind of view point of the victimy?
The hot axe in the cookin oil sounds like a diarrhea
Fake
I don't think it's fake, but quenching in water was unfortunate. It weakens the metal. Gotta do it in oil.
@@mikel1199 It was too clean to be found metal detecting
Tempering with self-tempering is widespread in tool production. The peculiarity of this method is that tempering of the product occurs due to the heat remaining in the inner layers after hardening. Practically the hardening with self-tempering is done in the following way. The tool is heated to the hardening temperature, kept at that temperature for the necessary time and then only the working part of the tool is submerged in water. After being removed from the water the tool is left in the air until the working part of the tool is heated to the tempering temperature.
The tool is heated by the heat of the part of the tool that has not been immersed in water. The tool is then finally cooled in water or oil. The tempering temperature is determined by the annealing colors by deburring a part of the tool's working surface. Appearance of the color of whiteness during tempering is explained by the fact that at temperatures of 200-300° on a clean polished and ground surface there appear thin layers of oxides.
@Ocelot 22 That's the way it was. Worm will confirm it.😀😂
@@OldRusty Thanks for the explanation. I watch a lot of restoration videos, and most other people quench in oil. My understanding is that water shocks the metal, which is why you see metal flaking off in the water during the quench, whereas oil allows the metal to cool more slowly, thus being a better hardening choice for quenching. Also, the blackening process when quenching in oil is more even and a superior rust proofing, as opposed to the splotchy result from the quench in water. If quenching in water works for you, great, but most other people who make these types of videos use oil.
Lol, just say you are restoring an axe. No need to pretend you found it.
fake
What’s with the gay sound effects when you were using the band saw?