Just tackled this same issue with the exact same engine and carburetor. Mine started surging and then completely quit and wouldn't draw any gas into the fuel lines. Replace the vacuum line that was cracked and finally got it to start but it still surged. Removed the carb same as you and what a booger that was to get off. I didn't have a carb kit but cleaned all the goo and crud out of the carb and put it all back together. The worst part was when I was removing the carb, the linkage that works the choke came apart without me seeing it and I wasn't sure how it went back together. Finally figured it out and am sure you were as happy as I was when the thing fired up and ran like a top.
The easiest fix of all is never shown in these videos: Just buy a new carburetor. I have a 2001 YardMan mower (for years just used as a tractor) that has many hundreds of hours on it, always with ethanol gas. When it began acting up I replaced the original carb with a knockoff that worked flawlessly for a decade. After fiddling with cleaning/rebuilding it a couple weeks ago - and having it run well for only a short time - I cut my losses and bought another carb. Flushed gas tank, new fuel lines and filter (all done before this second replacement carb) and all is well. Let’s face it, at this writing a new knockoff carb is just $30 or so. Fussing around with parts can run up half of that in no time. If your time isn’t valuable and you want to tear up an old carburetor, by all means do so. But a new carb is a 45-minute fix. For an extra $15 or $20? No brainer. Incidentally, paying the premium price for non-ethanol gas - assuming it solves any running issues - will over time cost more than a pile of carburetors.
Dude I've seen all kinds of TH-cam videos and your commentary with theory of what's going on in your head and why you need to do it is f****** hilarious! Please do not take that the wrong way I love it you're spitting image myself and I'm now going to subscribe keep on keeping on brother
@@Craigsdocks so here's what I want you to do just so you don't have to worry about editing I want you to use the Ron Burgundy saying of great odens ravens every time you want to cuss 🤔
Thank you friend! I have been putting up with my GT52XLSi being slow to start and randomly dying during mowing. Even though I had a rebuild kit I didn't need it, just a thorough cleaning with some carb cleaner did the trick.
This problem is created by using gas containing ethanol, which thanks to our govt is about all you can find at a regular gas station. If you run pure gas these problems would never happen.
Bro, my dude! I've been scouring the web and YT trying to find what I could only describe as a "toddler going nuts on a snare drum" noise when I started my YTH22V46. Everything I read made it sound like maybe it wasn't a carburator issue. But the noise is spot on. Gonna give this a go and see if it works. Thanks very much!
Yeah on this one its pretty clear it was the o rings holding in the jets, I mean the jets fell out of the pickup tubes, so right off you know that isn't right lol Good Luck with Yours! Hope that fixes it
My 24 hp twin Briggs was doing the same thing. I ordered a complete carb and gasket set from Amazon... Runs like a champ mow. I'm HIGHLY SUSPICIOUS the degrading O rings are due to ethanol based fuel. I've resolved to use ONY non-ethanol gas from now on....
The jelly looking stuff is the ethanol gas going bad and it is bad on the rubber seals as well. The carb jets have small o-rings that the ethanol attacks and also the black part you see at the inlet side of carb, the rubber gasket under it and then the tube that runs in middle of the carb float, the rubber gasket under it. The dirt inside the bowl needs to be cleaned out for sure. The carburetor fuel shut off/anti backfire solenoid should never be removed or end snipped off. I have seen 2 engines filled with fuel because someone or owner thought they didn't need it. Ethanol fuel will cause that solenoid to gum up as well. Non ethanol fuel for mowers is the way to go.
I liked your video greatly and attempted to rebuild nikki carb for my Husqvarna 24hp b&s intek engine which is also surging. I got the carb rebuild kit and o-rings for jets did not fit like your video showed. I then found viton o-rings on e-bay like you suggested but they were even larger and sheared into two when inserting into the fuel tubes with force. I got the 6 pack and tried WD40, motor oil and other lubricating but all would just get cut/sheared when inserting the jet into the fuel tube. Would you provide any information where you got the o-rings that will actually fit the jet and the fuel tube without shearing the o-rings? Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Well I looked up the seller and his items for sale he doesn't have anything on or even completed, I made this video actually last summer that's when I purchased them, you might just have to get the jets with the o-rings already attached, I know its more costly but it will work right, get genuine parts, sorry I couldn't be of more help cause I feel your pain, I went through it with those shearing o-rings, but the ones I got the second time around were much thinner, wish I could point you in a better direction
Thanks for the info. I am having trouble finding the o-rings. Think I am going to try a cheap knock-off carb. I know the issues those can come with but for $30, I will see.
Yeah I wouldn't buy a knockoff carb, I got the viton o-rings on Ebay for my carb, you can always buy the original equipment jets they comes with the o-rings on them, probably get them for around $30?
Remove the plastic vane off its post at the flywheel with the rod. Lower left rod just pops out once you line it up with the slot in plastic holder. Lower rod on right just move carb to the left and rod will unhook. DO NOT LOSE THE VANE SPRING, ITS SPECIAL.
wondering if you could respond to me . . . but, what is the carburetor number that you have ? i would like to purchase one so that i too can have better function of the auto choke . the one that i am working on is from another engine. and not the original one. the best way to remove the choke wire is to use your thumb and pointer finger. thumb on the white elbow for the dashpot, then by using the pointer finger behind the wire give a gentle tug, and it will be removed easily. the 4 elongated bolt studs can be removed with a small regular socket or a inverted torx bit ( star bit probably ) . i laughed at the same area that you did, because i did not see it either, because of the gasket. lol . amazing that your mower has a glow plug , for when to not press ( red ) , to ready to press to engage ( start to idle ) p.s. upon listening to you. . . lol , visualized seeing 2 people. . . . Nathan Fillion and Woody Harrelson . yes it sounded very much like him., but i'm sure that you have heard that already.
I don't have the mower anymore or I would give you that number, I have actually never heard I sounded like those two people, however no one has ever said I sounded like anyone
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Just tackled this same issue with the exact same engine and carburetor. Mine started surging and then completely quit and wouldn't draw any gas into the fuel lines. Replace the vacuum line that was cracked and finally got it to start but it still surged. Removed the carb same as you and what a booger that was to get off. I didn't have a carb kit but cleaned all the goo and crud out of the carb and put it all back together. The worst part was when I was removing the carb, the linkage that works the choke came apart without me seeing it and I wasn't sure how it went back together. Finally figured it out and am sure you were as happy as I was when the thing fired up and ran like a top.
The easiest fix of all is never shown in these videos: Just buy a new carburetor. I have a 2001 YardMan mower (for years just used as a tractor) that has many hundreds of hours on it, always with ethanol gas. When it began acting up I replaced the original carb with a knockoff that worked flawlessly for a decade. After fiddling with cleaning/rebuilding it a couple weeks ago - and having it run well for only a short time - I cut my losses and bought another carb. Flushed gas tank, new fuel lines and filter (all done before this second replacement carb) and all is well. Let’s face it, at this writing a new knockoff carb is just $30 or so. Fussing around with parts can run up half of that in no time. If your time isn’t valuable and you want to tear up an old carburetor, by all means do so. But a new carb is a 45-minute fix. For an extra $15 or $20? No brainer. Incidentally, paying the premium price for non-ethanol gas - assuming it solves any running issues - will over time cost more than a pile of carburetors.
Dude I've seen all kinds of TH-cam videos and your commentary with theory of what's going on in your head and why you need to do it is f****** hilarious! Please do not take that the wrong way I love it you're spitting image myself and I'm now going to subscribe keep on keeping on brother
LoL, also most of the time I keep the few choice words I am thinking out of the video's haha
@@Craigsdocks so here's what I want you to do just so you don't have to worry about editing I want you to use the Ron Burgundy saying of great odens ravens every time you want to cuss 🤔
That's a tough one for me most likely, I have always wished I could use other words than I actually blurt out lol
Thank you friend! I have been putting up with my GT52XLSi being slow to start and randomly dying during mowing. Even though I had a rebuild kit I didn't need it, just a thorough cleaning with some carb cleaner did the trick.
Hey there, where does the other end of that hose from 9:02 lead to? Mine is disconnected on top of my gas tank and I’m not seeing anywhere it belongs
This problem is created by using gas containing ethanol, which thanks to our govt is about all you can find at a regular gas station. If you run pure gas these problems would never happen.
Yes, I agree ... Thanks for Watching!
Government makes more money and that’s the reason why
Just like P in Ru
I use ethanol free 89% and mines doing it
No true i alway tried non eth and my husky has the surging problem. UNLESS the station is misslableed the gas.
Bro, my dude! I've been scouring the web and YT trying to find what I could only describe as a "toddler going nuts on a snare drum" noise when I started my YTH22V46. Everything I read made it sound like maybe it wasn't a carburator issue. But the noise is spot on. Gonna give this a go and see if it works. Thanks very much!
Yeah on this one its pretty clear it was the o rings holding in the jets, I mean the jets fell out of the pickup tubes, so right off you know that isn't right lol
Good Luck with Yours! Hope that fixes it
Best video I’ve seen yet
Thanks!
Great vid! I Had to replace my jets last year and they were $15 each! I have a feeling I'll be replacing the O rings again this year,
Try using ONLY non-ethanol gas....
My 24 hp twin Briggs was doing the same thing. I ordered a complete carb and gasket set from Amazon... Runs like a champ mow. I'm HIGHLY SUSPICIOUS the degrading O rings are due to ethanol based fuel. I've resolved to use ONY non-ethanol gas from now on....
could you post the link of the kit you ordered. I need the same one. Thanks is advance.
I have the same Engine ? Can you help ?
The jelly looking stuff is the ethanol gas going bad and it is bad on the rubber seals as well. The carb jets have small o-rings that the ethanol attacks and also the black part you see at the inlet side of carb, the rubber gasket under it and then the tube that runs in middle of the carb float, the rubber gasket under it. The dirt inside the bowl needs to be cleaned out for sure. The carburetor fuel shut off/anti backfire solenoid should never be removed or end snipped off. I have seen 2 engines filled with fuel because someone or owner thought they didn't need it. Ethanol fuel will cause that solenoid to gum up as well. Non ethanol fuel for mowers is the way to go.
I liked your video greatly and attempted to rebuild nikki carb for my Husqvarna 24hp b&s intek engine which is also surging. I got the carb rebuild kit and o-rings for jets did not fit like your video showed. I then found viton o-rings on e-bay like you suggested but they were even larger and sheared into two when inserting into the fuel tubes with force. I got the 6 pack and tried WD40, motor oil and other lubricating but all would just get cut/sheared when inserting the jet into the fuel tube. Would you provide any information where you got the o-rings that will actually fit the jet and the fuel tube without shearing the o-rings? Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Well I looked up the seller and his items for sale he doesn't have anything on or even completed, I made this video actually last summer that's when I purchased them, you might just have to get the jets with the o-rings already attached, I know its more costly but it will work right, get genuine parts, sorry I couldn't be of more help cause I feel your pain, I went through it with those shearing o-rings, but the ones I got the second time around were much thinner, wish I could point you in a better direction
Thanks for the info. I am having trouble finding the o-rings. Think I am going to try a cheap knock-off carb. I know the issues those can come with but for $30, I will see.
Yeah I wouldn't buy a knockoff carb, I got the viton o-rings on Ebay for my carb, you can always buy the original equipment jets they comes with the o-rings on them, probably get them for around $30?
Remove the plastic vane off its post at the flywheel with the rod. Lower left rod just pops out once you line it up with the slot in plastic holder. Lower rod on right just move carb to the left and rod will unhook. DO NOT LOSE THE VANE SPRING, ITS SPECIAL.
Having the same problem , my completely started fine but then started to surge. When I tried to start it , Gas was leaking from the muffler.
Use 89 octane an yes sea foam as instructed
PLEASE HELP! At minute 4
3:58 what is that part called ? i broke mine and i can’t find it
Please help !
I’m putting one of those motors on my little Troybilt Pony riding mower. Maybe it’ll run like it should.
My 22hp needed 1 coil and the jets cleaned out with my torch cleaner files.....the orange turd runs like new again, good for another 450 hours.
What kit did u use, please??
Great informative video! I have the endurance motor like that but 22 hp version. What kit do you recommend?
wondering if you could respond to me . . . but, what is the carburetor number that you have ? i would like to purchase one so that i too can have better function of the auto choke .
the one that i am working on is from another engine. and not the original one.
the best way to remove the choke wire is to use your thumb and pointer finger. thumb on the white elbow for the dashpot, then by using the pointer finger behind the wire give a gentle tug,
and it will be removed easily.
the 4 elongated bolt studs can be removed with a small regular socket or a inverted torx bit ( star bit probably ) . i laughed at the same area that you did, because i did not see it either, because of the gasket. lol .
amazing that your mower has a glow plug , for when to not press ( red ) , to ready to press to engage ( start to idle )
p.s.
upon listening to you. . . lol , visualized seeing 2 people. . . . Nathan Fillion and Woody Harrelson .
yes it sounded very much like him., but i'm sure that you have heard that already.
I don't have the mower anymore or I would give you that number, I have actually never heard I sounded like those two people, however no one has ever said I sounded like anyone
I use brake cleaner instead of carb cleaner cuz carb cleaner will cause the bowl gasket to expand and won’t fit back properly
Would spraying carburetor cleaner in it while running do any good?
no, you will wipe the rings , and do catastrophic damage.
removal and disassembly to clean the carburetor is the #1 best option.
Mask of intake and degreaser it good while your cleaning carb
Then wash it down good
Which side has the bigger jet?
Honestly I just don't remember, its been a while ... sorry I don't remember
Let it surge ,mine runs fine while mowing, could care less it surges at without load, not worth fixing