Yes, saw dust is 90% of everyone's problems with mold. A wide drywall knife will make quick work of it, and then every couple days hit the wood with a leaf blower to remove the dried sawdust that's left over. Virtually impossible to get mold this way.
BTW I've never seen walls made like you have with the T bracing essentially. Keeps the wall stiff, and allows for greater spans. I may have to try that.
For a gable wall (with no roof load), it lets you go up to about 12' span between posts, so potentially saves digging a post hole and putting in a post that would have no real purpose (in terms of vertical load). But it really depends on the project, grade, amount of backfill inside the skirt, etc. Sometimes a dummy post would be just as quick.
Thank you so much Jack. Based on your experience I am going to buy a Woodland Mills bandsaw and will set it up exactly like yours. I was curious about your barn floor. It appears to be compacted 3/4 inch crushed ledge directly on the ground. Did you use a fabric between the ground and the stone. I have large pole barn and am debating if I should spend lots of money for concrete or use your system. Kind Regards. Craig
I poured a concrete floor in the main barn since I wanted to roll around dollies with tractor implements, but both additions have gravel floors, which really takes advantage of the cost-effectiveness of the pole barn method. When you introduce a concrete slab into the design, a pole barn becomes less cost-effective and you might do better with stick-framing on a slab with thickened edges (ie, slab is already there, no need for poles). But with a gravel floor, a pole barn will always be the cheapest way to go. I used #8 gravel, which is a screened product with no fines (rocks about 1/4-3/8"). It self compacts as you rake it to grade and no machine compacting is required. There is also a #78 product that is a little bigger but works OK. Normally I will rough grade with #57 gravel (3/4"), then put down 1-2 layers of 6 mil plastic as a vapor barrier. Some people will use roofing felt, scrap outdoor carpet, or any other suitable barrier that can block ground moisture. Then the #8 gravel goes on top and gets raked to final grade. Offhand I'd say there is 4-5" of the #8 gravel above the vapor barrier (about the same as the thickness of a typical concrete slab). The #8 works fine for anything with large tires, such as vehicles, tractors, riding mowers, ATVs, etc. They will roll over it with no issue. But smaller tires (push mower, log splitter, etc) will not roll easily on it and want to furrow in, so keep that in mind. For a barn that stores small equipment with skinny wheels, I'd either want a concrete floor, or put down crusher-run. With crusher run, plan to rent a plate compactor to get it packed down, and then plan to deal with possible dust, since it contains fines.
Probably a stupid question. I am new to your channel. What are the metal rods in your driveway? It looks like you have metal dividers with gravel fill?
Thanks again for another great video. Did you happen to notice if the boards you rejected were stacked at the bottom, middle, or top of the stack? Could the position of the boards in the stack contributed to the imperfections?
They were all in a bunch near the middle, but I am almost certain it had to do with the particular tree and not the stacking. I had another group of narrower boards from the same tree that I tossed out last year, even before stacking, since they got all twisty within days of being sawn.
My question is how will I know when I can remove the straps? I had to have an old damaged pecan tree taken down in 2022. I had the parts that were still good milled into 2-1/2" thick slabs. The sawmill guy did the sticks between slabs and straps, these stacks of slabs have been on my carport with good air flow and they seem to have dried out nicely. I don't have a meter nor the budget to buy one. The sawmill guy delivered them, I don't have a tractor to move the stacks to another location so I am contemplating removing the straps so that I can move the slabs one by one to another location mostly because they are in the way for a planned project to remodel the carport and adjoining porch area.
@@Lumber_Jack thank you and yes I had been told that but does that mean I can't remove the straps and move the slabs to another location individually? I can't afford to hire a tractor with forks to move the slabs all strapped together. I was also told that the thicker the slab the less they warp, what is your opinion on that? I intend to use the slabs as benches, table tops, counter tops, and stair tread. I'm wondering if I could go ahead and move some inside the house.
@@Maggie-Gardener-Maker Once you loosen the straps, the horse will be out of the barn. I wouldn't let that stop me from moving them if they were truly in the way, but don't expect them to behave or go back into a neat pile. Wood is very unpredictable in this situation. Many factors determine the stability of wood. Thickness can be a plus or a minus depending on other factors.
Don't waste the boards, you can throw them on the sawmill and make 1x6 out of the 1x10, etc. They can be cut 2 ways to fix the issue and save the wood.
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Thank you sir. I always enjoy your videos. Informing and interesting.
Yes, saw dust is 90% of everyone's problems with mold. A wide drywall knife will make quick work of it, and then every couple days hit the wood with a leaf blower to remove the dried sawdust that's left over. Virtually impossible to get mold this way.
I do it exactly the same way, however I use 16" spacing for stickers.
BTW I've never seen walls made like you have with the T bracing essentially. Keeps the wall stiff, and allows for greater spans. I may have to try that.
For a gable wall (with no roof load), it lets you go up to about 12' span between posts, so potentially saves digging a post hole and putting in a post that would have no real purpose (in terms of vertical load). But it really depends on the project, grade, amount of backfill inside the skirt, etc. Sometimes a dummy post would be just as quick.
Thank you so much Jack. Based on your experience I am going to buy a Woodland Mills bandsaw and will set it up exactly like yours. I was curious about your barn floor. It appears to be compacted 3/4 inch crushed ledge directly on the ground. Did you use a fabric between the ground and the stone. I have large pole barn and am debating if I should spend lots of money for concrete or use your system. Kind Regards. Craig
I poured a concrete floor in the main barn since I wanted to roll around dollies with tractor implements, but both additions have gravel floors, which really takes advantage of the cost-effectiveness of the pole barn method. When you introduce a concrete slab into the design, a pole barn becomes less cost-effective and you might do better with stick-framing on a slab with thickened edges (ie, slab is already there, no need for poles). But with a gravel floor, a pole barn will always be the cheapest way to go.
I used #8 gravel, which is a screened product with no fines (rocks about 1/4-3/8"). It self compacts as you rake it to grade and no machine compacting is required. There is also a #78 product that is a little bigger but works OK.
Normally I will rough grade with #57 gravel (3/4"), then put down 1-2 layers of 6 mil plastic as a vapor barrier. Some people will use roofing felt, scrap outdoor carpet, or any other suitable barrier that can block ground moisture. Then the #8 gravel goes on top and gets raked to final grade. Offhand I'd say there is 4-5" of the #8 gravel above the vapor barrier (about the same as the thickness of a typical concrete slab).
The #8 works fine for anything with large tires, such as vehicles, tractors, riding mowers, ATVs, etc. They will roll over it with no issue. But smaller tires (push mower, log splitter, etc) will not roll easily on it and want to furrow in, so keep that in mind. For a barn that stores small equipment with skinny wheels, I'd either want a concrete floor, or put down crusher-run. With crusher run, plan to rent a plate compactor to get it packed down, and then plan to deal with possible dust, since it contains fines.
Probably a stupid question. I am new to your channel. What are the metal rods in your driveway? It looks like you have metal dividers with gravel fill?
Not sure, which part of the video?
Thanks again for another great video. Did you happen to notice if the boards you rejected were stacked at the bottom, middle, or top of the stack? Could the position of the boards in the stack contributed to the imperfections?
They were all in a bunch near the middle, but I am almost certain it had to do with the particular tree and not the stacking. I had another group of narrower boards from the same tree that I tossed out last year, even before stacking, since they got all twisty within days of being sawn.
My question is how will I know when I can remove the straps? I had to have an old damaged pecan tree taken down in 2022. I had the parts that were still good milled into 2-1/2" thick slabs. The sawmill guy did the sticks between slabs and straps, these stacks of slabs have been on my carport with good air flow and they seem to have dried out nicely. I don't have a meter nor the budget to buy one. The sawmill guy delivered them, I don't have a tractor to move the stacks to another location so I am contemplating removing the straps so that I can move the slabs one by one to another location mostly because they are in the way for a planned project to remodel the carport and adjoining porch area.
Plan on taking a year per inch of thickness to completely dry in a mild climate. Drier climates take less time, humid climates take more time.
@@Lumber_Jack thank you and yes I had been told that but does that mean I can't remove the straps and move the slabs to another location individually? I can't afford to hire a tractor with forks to move the slabs all strapped together. I was also told that the thicker the slab the less they warp, what is your opinion on that? I intend to use the slabs as benches, table tops, counter tops, and stair tread. I'm wondering if I could go ahead and move some inside the house.
@@Maggie-Gardener-Maker Once you loosen the straps, the horse will be out of the barn. I wouldn't let that stop me from moving them if they were truly in the way, but don't expect them to behave or go back into a neat pile. Wood is very unpredictable in this situation.
Many factors determine the stability of wood. Thickness can be a plus or a minus depending on other factors.
@@Lumber_Jack thanks
Don't waste the boards, you can throw them on the sawmill and make 1x6 out of the 1x10, etc. They can be cut 2 ways to fix the issue and save the wood.
Your moisture meter, look into Klein Moisture Meter. It's fairly cheap and it's going to give you a more accurate number.
Is that the pinless moisture meter? Looks interesting, I have never tried that type.
@@Lumber_Jack yep, it's also handy for other things around the house.