I lost 1 day trying to understand where the bug is!!! Your help save me to expend more time too! Congratulations, it was a pleasure see your video and watch the results. All works fine now. Thank you.
Care to share? I got a board just like this one and it seems to work fine for me, so I'm wondering what this fix is for to decide if I should spend time doing it to my board.
5 years old video and this came in clutch for me. My R2 was in a different spot and not actually labelled but was able to work it out from the schematics. Either way solution was the same and now I have it working.
..after so long keeping it not knowing what was wrong..today I fixed it according to your advice.. 1 - jump en to vcc 2. Remove R2 202 resistor...it finally worked tq mate..used switched USB programmer for esp-01s sketch upload..
Thanks for this video, Strangely my boards look identical to yours in terms of components but the chip enable pin seems to be fine. I removed the resistor you showed and they're now working great.
Thank you so much !!!!! I wasted precious time wondering what the issue was, until I stumbled on you video . All works now. You get to wonder how they do their QA when building these products. ;-)
Thank You... You are Freaking BRILLIANT !!! I acquired 5 of these relay boards and was about to toss them into the garbage. I replaced the 8266 with the 8285 and I am happy with the results. THANK YOU!!!
I got exact this modules (Pack of 3) from Hongkong. And I can confirm, that all 3 faults 1) Much less than 1 mm separation of the 220V connector from the relay to DC Ground! 2) The missing connection of the Chip_enable pin to VCC, and 3) The irritating existence of the 10k resistor on the GPIO0, which prevents the CPU from starting. Thank you very much
Good Job, thank you very much. I bought about 20 of that relay boards to build some remote valves for my garden watering, because the ESP01 and that relay should work perfect with just a 5V DC supply and WiFi Control. The CH_EN I found already out myself, but with the resistors is a very hard stuff. Thanks for discovering. I will inform my dealer about that buggy item.
Yup. Just bought some of these to make small low voltage switches for Alexa. Had to do the same mods. Thanks for making it easier to do and saving me from all the research! :-)
Thank you for this. I bought a few of these and I'd completely failed to get them to work. Desoldering the 10k R2 (i.e. the resistor closest to the edge of the board, and connecting CH_PD to Vcc did the trick. What I don't understand is how this design ever got past testing since it's broken but at least now I know how to fix it.
Super ! Thank you for this great tip, you saved my day., interestingly I have the Relay PCB version 4.0 and I had to short the pins to get it working, removal resistor was not needed.
Did this work for you? I also have the 10k resistor at the R1 and the 2k resistor on the R2. I already removed the R1 10k, but mine is not working. Will it work if i resolder the R2 2k to the R1 like you did?
thanks for the tips, at my case , was a double relay module (12v), that don´t active the relay, i saw that the r2 was missing to amplifies the 3,3v signal to 12v, thanks!
keeps me given this error (exit status 1 Error compiling for board Generic ESP8266 Module.)... any help? ( I choose Generic ESp 8266 module, the com port is ok... and using IDE of arduino to program)
Why do the keep selling it with such issues? Is there a V1.x available. Especially, the missing isolation distance between ground and 230V is not nice...
The board in the add you showed is indeed a completely different board. It contains 2 microprocessors. Your board is designed for an ESP01-S.... that already has the required pull ups (including the chip select). on my board I had to remove the 2k resistor
thank you! it worked! I also had to swap the 2k resistor which was on the R2 to the R1 (10K was on R1) as others have commented. One question: where I bought it it said I could use 5-12V. 5V worked fine but I tried 12V and a lot of smoke came out (It looks like that mosfet burned), should it have worked with 12V? or does it only handle 5V input?
As You can see on the film, this module is dedicated for ESP-01S, but not ESP-01. With ESP-01S it works fine. But if You have only ESP-01 You must follow the advice from this film.
sorry for comment an old video , but i have the almost the same module but with 2 relays and I've tried to do the same thing but it doesn't work , do you know the fix of this module?
I do exactly as You say, but still can`t firmware my esp( I remove 10k resistor (in my case R1 and R2 in reverse, so i remove R2 and R1, and solder back R1 just like in your picture), after that i solder 2 contacts EN and 3v3. After that i tried to connect via TTl module to pc and no one ports are avalilabe. PLEAASE HELP! I firmware with ESP Easy Flasher.
Thanks for your excellent information. I was able to get my v1 relay working by un-soldering R2 as described in the video. However, in the case of my board R2 was actually the 220 ohm resistor with the left leg connected to GND... The two resistors (R1 and R2) were swapped for some reason. Anyway, I chose to remove the 10k resistor from R1 and put the 220 in its place so it more closely resembles yours. However, both configurations seemed to work... Would it make any difference anyway, 220/10k in R1's place?
Glad you got yours working. The black 7002 transistor Q1 is a mosfet which is voltage driven (even though in my crappy MSpaint schematic it's drawn as an NPN transistor). Either the 10k or 220ohm resistor would work.
@@CheckEmGG hi there i got 1 of this boards i dont get it cleary what i must do or to desolder witch stuff my R2 is the 103 and my R1 is 202 witch one must i remove or swap plz help if can thanks
Hi , Thanks for clear explanation. My esp boots and works after I remove R2 and connect Chip_enable pin to VCC. My esp which is ESP8266EX works even without pulling Chip_enable up. I can control GPIO0 and build in led with the software. But Relay and board leds are always on no matter GPIO0 High or low. When I connects Gpio0 to gnd board led turns off and relay closes. Do you have any idea what else should be wrong on the board ?
Hi SilentDreamcast. So update to my testing using GPIO3 and the good news is it worked. I just had to use a 10K pull down resistor between GPIO3 and ground to stop the startup pulse but since the Arduino bootloader code doesn't care about the state of GPIO3 at boot time it's fine. I'm not sure if 10K is the right size resistor but it seems to work. I'll do some more reading about how to correctly size the resistor. So in summary when using Arduino code on the ESP-01 in combination with this relay module and avoid the activation of the relay during power up you need do the following mods to the relay board AND don't print anything to the serial port in your code as it writes to GPIO3 which we'll use now for the relay. Printing to serial could cause unwanted relay activations; I wrote a bit of a step by step below; !st just google for a diagram of the ESP-01 pin outs such as this one - circuits4you.com/2016/12/14/esp8266-pin-diagram. I have a couple of pics of the board mods which I can share with you if you're interested although you'll have to forgive my soldering skills. 1. Jumper pin 4 (CH_EN/CH_PD) to pin 8 (VCC), as SilentDreamcast said in this video thanks. 2. Remove the 10K resistor (R2), once again as SilentDreamcast said so thanks again. It's easy if you just apply a bit of solder (you don't need a lot) and poke it with the soldering iron tip and it will just "float" away. Then use a solder sucker or braid to clean up the excess solder and make sure you haven't bridged anything you shouldn't have. Careful too NOT to accidentally remove the other resistor R1 as surface mount soldering is a bit tricky. The two pads where R1 used to be should be open circuit and not be bridged/connected when you finish. 3. Cut the track on the bottom of the relay board close to pin 5 (GPIO00). I suggest you test continuity between GPIO00 and the two resistors (R1,R2) on the top of the board before and after the cut to verify you've disconnected it. Test to the side or R1 furthest from the relay (or to the pad where R2 used to be as the two are connected). I used a small jeweller's screwdriver slowly and carefully to scrape a rut in the track close to the pin. 4. Scrape off a bit of the protective insulation coating on the track running from pin 5, about 3mm is enough, and tin it with solder. Be gentle you just have to scratch a little. You don't want to scrape the track off the board. Once again I used the same small jeweller's screwdriver. 5. Take a 10K resistor and solder one end to pin 7 (GPIO3) and the other end to Pin 1 (Ground). 6. If you pend the resistor leg going to pin 1 to run it's path along the track you scraped in step 4 before leading it to the ground pin you can solder it to the track that used to lead to pin 5 (GPIO00) and kill two birds with one stone. NOTE: I suggest you solder the lead to the VCC pin first before soldering to the scraped track. You don't want to apply any pressure by pulling the lead after it's soldered to that fragile little track or you could just lift it right off the board and make a mess. Finally and this is optional I soldered a 220uf electrolytic and a .1uf polyester capacitor in parallel across the coil of the relay to reduce chatter. This may not be necessary but I found it stopped the chatter of the relay I experienced at one point during testing at power on. The second module I modified didn't exhibit the chattering so it might be overkill? It's not expensive or difficult though so up to your discretion. Just orient the electrolytic capacitor the right way. I just manually activated the relay briefly by touching the pads on the board with 5V to determine the correct polarity. The coil leads are the two in parallel furthest apart at the opposite end of the board to the ESP module. If you turn the board over to the solder side and orientate the 5v Ground markings to your right then the coil pins are at the top of the board. That's it. Works like a charm now after only many hours of lost sleep hacking about and googling :-) FYI. I am using some code based on another youtube post - th-cam.com/video/X4qXy2JFg_w/w-d-xo.html I control the relay throug a message bus called MQTT and I run a broker called Mosquitto on a Raspberry Pi. You've probably heard of MQTT but if not it's a must for anyone interested in Home Automation so look into it. Message brokers are used for various commercial applications too some of which I work with. The principal is simply that the Arduino "listens" for a message on a channel name, e.g. GarageDoor. The message could be OpenDoor or CloseDoor, etc. or anything you want it to be. When the code sees the OpenDoor message it toggles the GPIO on for a few seconds and off again and voila when connected across the right terminals on the garage door opener it triggers it. You can then tie this in with other things like NodRed, OpenHab2, HomeAssistant, etc. I am dabbling with all of them and havent' settled on any one particular solution yet. Thanks for your help and input. Without your post I would have been really stuck trying to figure out why the module didn't even work at all in the first place. I knew about the CH_EN/CH_PD to VCC requirement but never would have guessed removing the 10K resistor. I hope this write up helps others to get there faster. Cheers, Steve P.S. Love the ESP8266 modules. Like a powerful Arduino with built-in wireless. Been dabbling with them for a while.
Awesome work m8. It's good to hear that you got it working. I'll have to note GPIO-3 is the one to use for failsafe outputs on the smaller ESP-01 modules. Also for pull-down resistor, I usually use anything from 4.7-10k, (mostly 10k) especially since lesser current draw for switches and it is a common value for analog sensors voltage divider.
hi, thanks for your guide! :) i did this, can you check it's correct? imgur.com/a/3vmlflK here the code i used: pastebin.com/ThvKjXHc but it worked until doing your mod (if i made it correct): on boot i had a burst of on/off of the relay when initially using pin 0 for relay, while now with pin 3 it does not trigger at all... maybe i soldered the resistor the wrong way? the track from relay to gpio5 is cut, tested with multimeter... and tested the scraped track and soldered resistor leg connection, too, it seems fine...
Just checked...in my module IOTMCU V4.0 ...found CH_PD is not connected to anything..Thanks bor...although it works good with blynk but giving problem using esphome....I hope fixing ch_pd high will fix my problem...will update soon
fyi Notice on the back of the board it says ESP-01S that uses an ESP8266 ESP-01S which is not the same as ESP-01. The ESP-01S does not need the enable pulled high to be enabled. The ESP-01S only has a single blue LED.
in most cases the esp board should have an internal pull up resistor but it's not always the case, especially when getting those cheap modules from China. The relay board is generic for both ESP-01/S modules. In my case I needed to pull up EN. For the sake of being complete and meeting spec, it should be pulled up regardless if it needs it or not.
'Hi! I followed your video and modified my relay board and it's actually working but as I plug it the code is not running and I need to push the reset button to make it run. Same problem if there's a power disconnection, the module do not start to execute the code since I push the RST button. I think I may solve the problem with a capacitor between RST pin and GND so that as the electricity come the capacitor is empty and forces RST to GND. COuld it work? which capacitor should I use? 100 nF as I saw in a similar application?
that is a weird phenomenon. maybe there is some excess flux residue on gpio0 that may be causing it to go into program mode instead of execute, residue can act as a small capacitor/resistor. Resetting probably fixes the problem because it discharges whatever residue or puts it in a known state. Try cleaning everything and if it still doesn't work a capacitor should work the way you describe, idk how long it will last tho. Maybe it is missing a pull up resistor on reset line as well but that is usually on the ESP module side
Board works just fine - just do not use arduino. It does not matter if pin0 is used because mcu exits programming mode if it cannot connect and boots normally
Don't know what version of fauxmo you are using but haven't been able to get it to recognise my modules even exist so fa when I try and add them with the Alexa app. :(
stewartrv 1. make sure the add device names are all unique. Or else Alexa will think they are all the same. 2. Check that your wifi SSID and password are correct. 3. Log into your router to make sure the ESPs are connected and giving out IP addresses. This is assuming you were able to flash code successfully and when you turn it on the relay should click twice. My version of fauxESP was the latest version on GitHub(at the time) that shouldn't be the issue if it compiles.
is there a way.. or hack... so i can power the board and the ESP with just a power cord. Want to simplify this. Don't want to have power for the board and the power cord going through the switch.
I soldered a small 5 volt USB switching power supply to the 120v and 5v pins. I have it small enough to fit inside the space of a standard wall switch. it's very simple. just make sure your wiring is to code and isolation is taken care of.
download my Arduino code in the video description, modify the wifi SSID and password, and flash it to the ESP module using Arduino IDE and UART serial programmer. There are lots of "getting started with ESP8266 with Arduino" videos if you are new to this kind of stuff.
just wondering after removing the resister did you like, connect them together, as u know there will be a gap,,,, I did remove the resistor and solder the space after the removing the resistor but it didn't work
Saoud Ahmad the 10k resistor is a pull down to GPIO 0 which puts the ESP into programming mode. So to get it to run your program you need to completely remove the resistor. Do NOT solder bridge the gap, it should be empty space so the ESP runs the program
I've desoldered the resistors from R1 and r2. But can't solder back the 2k resistor on r1 because it's so tiny. I tried to put an 2k resistor of my own on r1. But then the esp doesn't boot. If I remove the resistor from r1 the esp boots, but i can not click the relay via GPIO0. What should I do?
HELP PLEASE!!! Keep getting this error in the IDE when trying to compile. (exit status 1 Error compiling for board Generic ESP8266 Module.) I choose Generic ESp 8266 module, Any help Please . My ESP 8266 modules are good 1
the code and libraries i put in the description does not work with the current version of Arduino IDE or Alexa. you need to use the newer libraries. the point of this video was to show how to fix the PCB problems with the board, NOT how to code for it
I added a link to the modified version of the code in the video description. I changed the relay pin and disabled some button toggle stuff in the code, you just need to change the WiFi SSID and password to yours. Thanks for watching. Also to change the default device name, modify line 71 and change "relay 3" to anything you want. you can always change the name link in the Alexa App.
Hi~ Silent > I have one problem , I found when I pulg ESP 01 in to relay , the ESP 01 have power but GPIO 0 can not work . The led of single not flash.But when I pull GPIO 0 out and press rest button , I found single of LED is work, and I plug GPIO 0 line again, everything is fine. How to fix the problem. I want plug ESP 01 into relay and it works, Don't need to plug GPIO 0 again.
Bryan Chen are you using the same relay module as me? You have to follow PCB trace and remove 10k pull-down resistor from GPIO-0 that is on relay board.
Hi, just one question if you or anyone has an idea. When power is applied there is some initial relay chatter. Any idea how to stop that? I'm wanting to use them for a garage door opener so the relay chattering could accidentally open the door in case of a power outage and restoration which would open up the house. That's obviously not so good if it happens while we aren't at home.
Stephen Polzin what code are you using? It's most likely due to the serial port printing. Remove any serial.print commands from your code. On some esp modules this is just unavoidable startup sequence. You can cut the PCB trace and solder a wire from the resistor to an unused pin on the ESP module and modify the code to match the pin change.
SilentDreamcast Thanks but it's pretty immediate on power on and I also tried with the default program when you start of in the ICE and it does the same so I don't think it's even getting to the code yet. It simply toggles the relay IO on and off once and therefore the relay. A couple of capacitors across the relay power seems to have calmed any chatter. I have a theory that it might be only happening on GPIO0 but haven't had time to test it yet. If that's the case I might have to butcher the board a bit to use a different IO. Not sure if it's the same with the -01S version of the ESP and no mods on the board. Anyone tried that?
I figured it must be an internal thing within the ESP bootloader (you have confirmed my suspicion). I don't normally use GPIO 0 because it's a special pin. I can confirm that Startup toggleing doesn't happen on the other pins so i would suggest change the code to use different pin, cut the trace and rewire.
SilentDreamcast yeah that was my thought exactly. I just posted earlier the same thing to the user who said that ESP-01S didn't need your mods. I also found adding a 220uf electrolytic and a .1uf polyester capacitor across the relay coil stops annoying relay chatter.
SilentDreamcast Lol. I liked the look of this module as it was plug and play after I'd fried a couple of ESPs using 5v relay boards due to my dodgy cabling :-) Now it looks like I'm up to mod #3 😄
Sorry, I don't understand your question. The esp8266(esp01) does not need any modification, just programming. The relay board does need modification if you get this exact one.
I want to say if you use relay board ESP-01s with wireless module esp8266-01s you don't need remove 10k resistor or do jump pin Vcc to pin Chpd.Wireless module esp8266-o1 is different from wireless module esp-8266-01S.
Iulian Lazar Hi do you have the same behavior as me with the ESP-01S and no mods of the board that the GPIO0 toggles high then low on power up causing the relay to close and open once?
that is normal. the ESP is checking GPIO 0 if it should be in programming or bootloader mode. we've disgused it before in some older comments. It doesn't appear to be fixable but since it is a short pulse, you can create an R-C circuit between GPIO 0 and the MOSFET gate so that only long on states turn on the relay. Or you can cut the PCB trace and wire the mosfet gate to a different GPIO pin
@@CheckEmGG Ahaaa ok sadly enough. I saw that indeed in a post below. I will do that than seems to be a do-able job. Connecting it to GPIO3. Does it really matter if the size of the pull down resistor is only 4.7kOhm instead of 10kOhm as stated in that message below.
@@CheckEmGG i read somewhere that the r2 was added to try to stop this but seems this module still on sale they must have made up 10 million of them LOL
as I state at 4:20, gpio0 is a very specific pin used for setting the device in programming/running mode. When pulled low by the 10K resistor it sets the board into programming mode, meaning it will never run your program.
I would like to see a movie about this relay wlan unit for non tinkerers. That goes like this: 1. Prepare Unit that way. (if you would like to know why watch this movie) . 2. Download this app and upload this code to the wlan unit. (If you want to learn how to modify the code go to this movie. Buy this component to connect via USB to the Wlan unit). 3. Connect to your switch via this app for windows, this app for android etc. Use this settings (If you want to learn more watch this video) . And now enjoy your new wlan switch device.-- I think such a video would attract hundred thousands more viewers not just tinkerers.
same here I am going to start with reading up on the esp module itself ,seems logical. you can find windows software/ and schematics a lot is in chinese so people just buy it any way 'cos it's so cheap and can be made to work with modern firmware with a bit of knowledge as shown here.
I may be bad at this, but I fried my ESP doing this. It could be that I took off the same resistor as in the video, when I have a slightly different board, There are a couple other videos with changes to the board as well th-cam.com/video/ul2vtDXREBo/w-d-xo.html
LastI night I found information that indicate GPIOs0-2 present on the ESP8266-01 won't do what I want when using the Arduino boot loader. See the first response in the post; www.esp8266.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=16141. GPIOs0-2 are always toggled high by the bootloader and you can't use a pull down resistor as the bootloader interprets the state of these pins to select various boot time options. e.g. Enable programming if GPIO0 is held low at boot. From the link above; "GPIOs 0, 1, 2 and 15 are pulled HIGH during boot and also driven LOW for short periods. The device will not boot if 0, 1 or 2 is driven LOW during start-up." This makes GPIOs 0-2 unsuitable for a relay control app using Arduino code if you can't tolerate this startup behavior or add some components/circuit to work around it (but I don't know what). This relay board was built to use a different firmware for the ESP8266-01 where the boot behavior differs from Arduino and so does not have the same issues, including the CHP_EN pin 4 needing to be held high by the mod you described. My 11 year old son actually came up with a possible workaround that I, initially, dismissed out of hand :-). He said why not toggle the relay twice after boot so the door stops opening from the boot toggle and then reverses/closes again. I will try this and see if it works but I expect it will. However I'm still, stubbornly, not willing to give up on the "proper" solution. What I now know is that GPIO3/Tx is also driven high during boot but its state at boot time doesn't influence any Arduino bootloader behavior so my theory is that if I use a pull down resistor to hold this low at boot and don't write anything to the serial port at any time in the code (as that flashes the Tx led/pin) then GPIO3 might work for me. According to documentation, in the link I mentioned earlier, GPIOs 4 and 5 are the only ones that are always high impedance and the best options for my application but as you know ESP8266-01 only has GPIOs0-3. All other GPIOs on any on the ESP8266 varieties have internal pull-ups or are even driven low/high during boot. "GPIOs 3, 12, 13 and 14 pulled HIGH during boot. Their actual state does not influence the boot process. See below. GPIOs 0, 1, 2 and 15 are pulled HIGH during boot and also driven LOW for short periods. The device will not boot if 0, 1 or 2 is driven LOW during start-up. GPIO 16 is driven HIGH during boot, don't short to GND." I will experiment tonight and report back on the results.
Very very interesting. I haven't played with ESP8266 for very long and have only ever used the bootloader that comes with the chip. And the projects i have done with them aren't affected by that quirk (I use it as a quick test "feature"). I'll have to play around more with these too during some free time
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I lost 1 day trying to understand where the bug is!!! Your help save me to expend more time too! Congratulations, it was a pleasure see your video and watch the results. All works fine now. Thank you.
Care to share? I got a board just like this one and it seems to work fine for me, so I'm wondering what this fix is for to decide if I should spend time doing it to my board.
5 years old video and this came in clutch for me. My R2 was in a different spot and not actually labelled but was able to work it out from the schematics. Either way solution was the same and now I have it working.
..after so long keeping it not knowing what was wrong..today I fixed it according to your advice.. 1 - jump en to vcc 2. Remove R2 202 resistor...it finally worked tq mate..used switched USB programmer for esp-01s sketch upload..
Got half way through debugging this when I found your vid. Superb. All my issues sorted. Many thanks
Man I just bought 20 of those and was almost getting crazy.. thx for sharing!!!!
Thanks for this video, Strangely my boards look identical to yours in terms of components but the chip enable pin seems to be fine. I removed the resistor you showed and they're now working great.
Thank you so much !!!!! I wasted precious time wondering what the issue was, until I stumbled on you video . All works now. You get to wonder how they do their QA when building these products. ;-)
Great Vid, thanks. I have 3 of these and was about to test them. I'm glad I found yer vid before attempting to use them.
Thank You... You are Freaking BRILLIANT !!! I acquired 5 of these relay boards and was about to toss them into the garbage. I replaced the 8266 with the 8285 and I am happy with the results. THANK YOU!!!
Thanks for this video,I was able to get my ESP-01s Relay V1.0 board working too :-)
I got exact this modules (Pack of 3) from Hongkong. And I can confirm, that all 3 faults 1) Much less than 1 mm separation of the 220V connector from the relay to DC Ground! 2) The missing connection of the Chip_enable pin to VCC, and 3) The irritating existence of the 10k resistor on the GPIO0, which prevents the CPU from starting. Thank you very much
Good Job, thank you very much.
I bought about 20 of that relay boards to build some remote valves for my garden watering, because the ESP01 and that relay should work perfect with just a 5V DC supply and WiFi Control.
The CH_EN I found already out myself, but with the resistors is a very hard stuff. Thanks for discovering. I will inform my dealer about that buggy item.
Thank you very much, in my case I just removed R2 it all is working fine.
Yup. Just bought some of these to make small low voltage switches for Alexa. Had to do the same mods. Thanks for making it easier to do and saving me from all the research! :-)
I have no Idea what i´m doing, but it works now! Thank you very much!
Fixed and working like a charm. Thanks!
Thank you very much! That was the exact info I needed.
Thank you for this. I bought a few of these and I'd completely failed to get them to work. Desoldering the 10k R2 (i.e. the resistor closest to the edge of the board, and connecting CH_PD to Vcc did the trick. What I don't understand is how this design ever got past testing since it's broken but at least now I know how to fix it.
Super ! Thank you for this great tip, you saved my day., interestingly I have the Relay PCB version 4.0 and I had to short the pins to get it working, removal resistor was not needed.
Nice one! I thought I was missing something as the esp-01 worked fine without the relay assembly. Nice catch.
Thanks for the clear explanation, appreciated it!
It definitely works! Thanks so much.
Thank you very much for your helpful information! You saved me. Thank you, thank you.
Awesome. It works exactly as described in video. Many thanks.
Thank you so much for sharing! helped a lot
Thank you so much bro. This video is really helpful.!!!!
Thanks - this really works - I appreciate your posting it.
Thank you very much !!! now everything works , good job !!
Thanks for the information, I have a device ESP-01 relay v1.0, with R1(103=10K), R2(202=2K), I just removed R2 it all is working fine.
Thanks for this video!!!! I was able to get mine working too :-)
really benefic and so helpful. thank u sir.
Thanks man. My relay v1.0 have R1 and R2 in reverse (R1 is 10k and R2 is 2k) , so i removed 10k as told and i desolder 2k from R2 and solder it to R1.
Did this work for you? I also have the 10k resistor at the R1 and the 2k resistor on the R2. I already removed the R1 10k, but mine is not working. Will it work if i resolder the R2 2k to the R1 like you did?
Thanks. Nice Video. got mine working now.
What document are you looking at that so nicely lays out the details of the ESP8266?
Perfect fixed second time when I paid attention to removing the correct resistor. Would probably have scrapped the board without it.
thanks for the tips, at my case , was a double relay module (12v), that don´t active the relay, i saw that the r2 was missing to amplifies the 3,3v signal to 12v, thanks!
hello tnx for this tutorial . you have been of much help. wich firmwre are you using to connect the esp-01 with alexa?
Thank you man. It works now.
Thank you. This works for me too.
keeps me given this error (exit status 1
Error compiling for board Generic ESP8266 Module.)... any help? ( I choose Generic ESp 8266 module, the com port is ok... and using IDE of arduino to program)
Why do the keep selling it with such issues? Is there a V1.x available. Especially, the missing isolation distance between ground and 230V is not nice...
Excellent video. Thanks,
The board in the add you showed is indeed a completely different board. It contains 2 microprocessors.
Your board is designed for an ESP01-S.... that already has the required pull ups (including the chip select).
on my board I had to remove the 2k resistor
Working good! Thanks so much
You sir are a lifesaver. Was debugging this for AGES. I knew it was getting stuck in flash mode but I couldnt figure out why!!! THANK YOU!!!!
Thanks man! And I thought I was doing something wrong..
thank you! it worked! I also had to swap the 2k resistor which was on the R2 to the R1 (10K was on R1) as others have commented. One question: where I bought it it said I could use 5-12V. 5V worked fine but I tried 12V and a lot of smoke came out (It looks like that mosfet burned), should it have worked with 12V? or does it only handle 5V input?
The 2n7002 mosfet can handle 20V, but the relay is 5V so it will draw too much power. If the mosfet didn't break, your relay would melt.
It works
As You can see on the film, this module is dedicated for ESP-01S, but not ESP-01.
With ESP-01S it works fine. But if You have only ESP-01 You must follow the advice from this film.
sorry for comment an old video , but i have the almost the same module but with 2 relays and I've tried to do the same thing but it doesn't work , do you know the fix of this module?
i got the version of these. it blinks the leds after powering then doesnt show up in my wifi list. and it keeps getting hot.
thanks, this works for me too
I do exactly as You say, but still can`t firmware my esp( I remove 10k resistor (in my case R1 and R2 in reverse, so i remove R2 and R1, and solder back R1 just like in your picture), after that i solder 2 contacts EN and 3v3. After that i tried to connect via TTl module to pc and no one ports are avalilabe. PLEAASE HELP! I firmware with ESP Easy Flasher.
Thanks for your excellent information. I was able to get my v1 relay working by un-soldering R2 as described in the video. However, in the case of my board R2 was actually the 220 ohm resistor with the left leg connected to GND... The two resistors (R1 and R2) were swapped for some reason.
Anyway, I chose to remove the 10k resistor from R1 and put the 220 in its place so it more closely resembles yours. However, both configurations seemed to work... Would it make any difference anyway, 220/10k in R1's place?
Glad you got yours working. The black 7002 transistor Q1 is a mosfet which is voltage driven (even though in my crappy MSpaint schematic it's drawn as an NPN transistor). Either the 10k or 220ohm resistor would work.
@@CheckEmGG hi there i got 1 of this boards i dont get it cleary what i must do or to desolder witch stuff my R2 is the 103 and my R1 is 202 witch one must i remove or swap plz help if can thanks
@@rufussouthey440 R2 is the one which you should remove.
i need pic of your modification module, i need some help with this relay module
Hi , Thanks for clear explanation. My esp boots and works after I remove R2 and connect Chip_enable pin to VCC. My esp which is ESP8266EX works even without pulling Chip_enable up. I can control GPIO0 and build in led with the software. But Relay and board leds are always on no matter GPIO0 High or low. When I connects Gpio0 to gnd board led turns off and relay closes. Do you have any idea what else should be wrong on the board ?
make sure pinMode(0,OUTPUT)
the gate resistor might be too high so there isn't enough bias voltage to pull the mosfet low
Hi SilentDreamcast. So update to my testing using GPIO3 and the good news is it worked. I just had to use a 10K pull down resistor between GPIO3 and ground to stop the startup pulse but since the Arduino bootloader code doesn't care about the state of GPIO3 at boot time it's fine. I'm not sure if 10K is the right size resistor but it seems to work. I'll do some more reading about how to correctly size the resistor.
So in summary when using Arduino code on the ESP-01 in combination with this relay module and avoid the activation of the relay during power up you need do the following mods to the relay board AND don't print anything to the serial port in your code as it writes to GPIO3 which we'll use now for the relay. Printing to serial could cause unwanted relay activations;
I wrote a bit of a step by step below;
!st just google for a diagram of the ESP-01 pin outs such as this one - circuits4you.com/2016/12/14/esp8266-pin-diagram. I have a couple of pics of the board mods which I can share with you if you're interested although you'll have to forgive my soldering skills.
1. Jumper pin 4 (CH_EN/CH_PD) to pin 8 (VCC), as SilentDreamcast said in this video thanks.
2. Remove the 10K resistor (R2), once again as SilentDreamcast said so thanks again. It's easy if you just apply a bit of solder (you don't need a lot) and poke it with the soldering iron tip and it will just "float" away. Then use a solder sucker or braid to clean up the excess solder and make sure you haven't bridged anything you shouldn't have. Careful too NOT to accidentally remove the other resistor R1 as surface mount soldering is a bit tricky. The two pads where R1 used to be should be open circuit and not be bridged/connected when you finish.
3. Cut the track on the bottom of the relay board close to pin 5 (GPIO00). I suggest you test continuity between GPIO00 and the two resistors (R1,R2) on the top of the board before and after the cut to verify you've disconnected it. Test to the side or R1 furthest from the relay (or to the pad where R2 used to be as the two are connected). I used a small jeweller's screwdriver slowly and carefully to scrape a rut in the track close to the pin.
4. Scrape off a bit of the protective insulation coating on the track running from pin 5, about 3mm is enough, and tin it with solder. Be gentle you just have to scratch a little. You don't want to scrape the track off the board. Once again I used the same small jeweller's screwdriver.
5. Take a 10K resistor and solder one end to pin 7 (GPIO3) and the other end to Pin 1 (Ground).
6. If you pend the resistor leg going to pin 1 to run it's path along the track you scraped in step 4 before leading it to the ground pin you can solder it to the track that used to lead to pin 5 (GPIO00) and kill two birds with one stone. NOTE: I suggest you solder the lead to the VCC pin first before soldering to the scraped track. You don't want to apply any pressure by pulling the lead after it's soldered to that fragile little track or you could just lift it right off the board and make a mess.
Finally and this is optional I soldered a 220uf electrolytic and a .1uf polyester capacitor in parallel across the coil of the relay to reduce chatter. This may not be necessary but I found it stopped the chatter of the relay I experienced at one point during testing at power on. The second module I modified didn't exhibit the chattering so it might be overkill? It's not expensive or difficult though so up to your discretion. Just orient the electrolytic capacitor the right way. I just manually activated the relay briefly by touching the pads on the board with 5V to determine the correct polarity. The coil leads are the two in parallel furthest apart at the opposite end of the board to the ESP module. If you turn the board over to the solder side and orientate the 5v Ground markings to your right then the coil pins are at the top of the board.
That's it. Works like a charm now after only many hours of lost sleep hacking about and googling :-)
FYI. I am using some code based on another youtube post - th-cam.com/video/X4qXy2JFg_w/w-d-xo.html
I control the relay throug a message bus called MQTT and I run a broker called Mosquitto on a Raspberry Pi. You've probably heard of MQTT but if not it's a must for anyone interested in Home Automation so look into it. Message brokers are used for various commercial applications too some of which I work with. The principal is simply that the Arduino "listens" for a message on a channel name, e.g. GarageDoor. The message could be OpenDoor or CloseDoor, etc. or anything you want it to be. When the code sees the OpenDoor message it toggles the GPIO on for a few seconds and off again and voila when connected across the right terminals on the garage door opener it triggers it. You can then tie this in with other things like NodRed, OpenHab2, HomeAssistant, etc. I am dabbling with all of them and havent' settled on any one particular solution yet.
Thanks for your help and input. Without your post I would have been really stuck trying to figure out why the module didn't even work at all in the first place. I knew about the CH_EN/CH_PD to VCC requirement but never would have guessed removing the 10K resistor.
I hope this write up helps others to get there faster.
Cheers,
Steve
P.S. Love the ESP8266 modules. Like a powerful Arduino with built-in wireless. Been dabbling with them for a while.
Awesome work m8. It's good to hear that you got it working. I'll have to note GPIO-3 is the one to use for failsafe outputs on the smaller ESP-01 modules. Also for pull-down resistor, I usually use anything from 4.7-10k, (mostly 10k) especially since lesser current draw for switches and it is a common value for analog sensors voltage divider.
hi, thanks for your guide! :)
i did this, can you check it's correct? imgur.com/a/3vmlflK
here the code i used: pastebin.com/ThvKjXHc
but it worked until doing your mod (if i made it correct): on boot i had a burst of on/off of the relay when initially using pin 0 for relay, while now with pin 3 it does not trigger at all... maybe i soldered the resistor the wrong way?
the track from relay to gpio5 is cut, tested with multimeter... and tested the scraped track and soldered resistor leg connection, too, it seems fine...
nevermind, i reverted the resistor for testing, and now it works flawlessly... BIG THANKS to BOTH of you!
imgur.com/a/mgbNZ4Y
Thank u man!
Just checked...in my module IOTMCU V4.0 ...found CH_PD is not connected to anything..Thanks bor...although it works good with blynk but giving problem using esphome....I hope fixing ch_pd high will fix my problem...will update soon
fyi Notice on the back of the board it says ESP-01S that uses an ESP8266 ESP-01S which is not the same as ESP-01. The ESP-01S does not need the enable pulled high to be enabled.
The ESP-01S only has a single blue LED.
in most cases the esp board should have an internal pull up resistor but it's not always the case, especially when getting those cheap modules from China. The relay board is generic for both ESP-01/S modules. In my case I needed to pull up EN. For the sake of being complete and meeting spec, it should be pulled up regardless if it needs it or not.
Thanks a lot :)
'Hi! I followed your video and modified my relay board and it's actually working but as I plug it the code is not running and I need to push the reset button to make it run. Same problem if there's a power disconnection, the module do not start to execute the code since I push the RST button. I think I may solve the problem with a capacitor between RST pin and GND so that as the electricity come the capacitor is empty and forces RST to GND. COuld it work? which capacitor should I use? 100 nF as I saw in a similar application?
that is a weird phenomenon. maybe there is some excess flux residue on gpio0 that may be causing it to go into program mode instead of execute, residue can act as a small capacitor/resistor. Resetting probably fixes the problem because it discharges whatever residue or puts it in a known state. Try cleaning everything and if it still doesn't work a capacitor should work the way you describe, idk how long it will last tho. Maybe it is missing a pull up resistor on reset line as well but that is usually on the ESP module side
Board works just fine - just do not use arduino. It does not matter if pin0 is used because mcu exits programming mode if it cannot connect and boots normally
Don't know what version of fauxmo you are using but haven't been able to get it to recognise my modules even exist so fa when I try and add them with the Alexa app. :(
stewartrv 1. make sure the add device names are all unique. Or else Alexa will think they are all the same. 2. Check that your wifi SSID and password are correct. 3. Log into your router to make sure the ESPs are connected and giving out IP addresses.
This is assuming you were able to flash code successfully and when you turn it on the relay should click twice.
My version of fauxESP was the latest version on GitHub(at the time) that shouldn't be the issue if it compiles.
Many thanks
Thanks for share
is there a way.. or hack... so i can power the board and the ESP with just a power cord. Want to simplify this. Don't want to have power for the board and the power cord going through the switch.
I soldered a small 5 volt USB switching power supply to the 120v and 5v pins. I have it small enough to fit inside the space of a standard wall switch. it's very simple. just make sure your wiring is to code and isolation is taken care of.
Thanks for this small fix... I also received these boards, but they swapped the resistors AND REVERSED THE DIODE!!!!! idiots...
perfect.. its works..
thank you.. ^_^
Thanks for share.
thank you
How set up the relay and relay is no work 5v how to connect to my wifi to this eps8266? And how connected to mobile?
download my Arduino code in the video description, modify the wifi SSID and password, and flash it to the ESP module using Arduino IDE and UART serial programmer. There are lots of "getting started with ESP8266 with Arduino" videos if you are new to this kind of stuff.
just wondering after removing the resister did you like, connect them together, as u know there will be a gap,,,, I did remove the resistor and solder the space after the removing the resistor but it didn't work
Saoud Ahmad the 10k resistor is a pull down to GPIO 0 which puts the ESP into programming mode. So to get it to run your program you need to completely remove the resistor. Do NOT solder bridge the gap, it should be empty space so the ESP runs the program
Also remember to solder CH_PD pin to 3.3v to enable the ESP
Thanks a lot , it worked now all of my 5 esp relays with Home assistant
I've desoldered the resistors from R1 and r2. But can't solder back the 2k resistor on r1 because it's so tiny. I tried to put an 2k resistor of my own on r1. But then the esp doesn't boot. If I remove the resistor from r1 the esp boots, but i can not click the relay via GPIO0. What should I do?
did you connect CH-PD pin to 3.3V?
@@CheckEmGG, yes I did.
Sooo how to use your code when you haven't uploaded the header file and also on newer async web server libraries there is no ESPAsyncTCP.h?????????
I didn't know there was a new version of async that wasn't backwards compatible. i pulled an older version off github
true hero
Has anyone manage to fix the relay jitter problem on start up?
that initial jitter is part of the chip and unavoidable. you can fix it by cutting the trace and using a different IO pin instead of IO 0
Risolto grazie al tuo video!
HELP PLEASE!!!
Keep getting this error in the IDE when trying to compile. (exit status 1
Error compiling for board Generic ESP8266 Module.) I choose Generic ESp 8266 module, Any help Please
. My ESP 8266 modules are good
1
the code and libraries i put in the description does not work with the current version of Arduino IDE or Alexa. you need to use the newer libraries. the point of this video was to show how to fix the PCB problems with the board, NOT how to code for it
I think it was made to use their ap, not designed to be reprogrammed
I just connect 3,3v to CH-EN and removed R2 resister. Now is it suppose to work with typical ESP2Relay controller app. still my one doesn't work
did you flash the firmware for the app?
@@CheckEmGG No I didn't. only those two changes were made. how can I do it?
Which 8266 Code you used for Alexa with this ?
I added a link to the modified version of the code in the video description. I changed the relay pin and disabled some button toggle stuff in the code, you just need to change the WiFi SSID and password to yours. Thanks for watching. Also to change the default device name, modify line 71 and change "relay 3" to anything you want. you can always change the name link in the Alexa App.
Hi~ Silent > I have one problem , I found when I pulg ESP 01 in to relay , the ESP 01 have power but GPIO 0 can not work . The led of single not flash.But when I pull GPIO 0 out and press rest button , I found single of LED is work, and I plug GPIO 0 line again, everything is fine. How to fix the problem. I want plug ESP 01 into relay and it works, Don't need to plug GPIO 0 again.
Bryan Chen are you using the same relay module as me? You have to follow PCB trace and remove 10k pull-down resistor from GPIO-0 that is on relay board.
I forgot to remove 10K.......
it works~thanks~~~~~^^
Hi dear ~Do you have any video about set up ssid password to esp8266 from app (iOS)?
you setup ssid and password in the code. You can not change it in app. You can only soft-rename the device in the Alexa App.
Hi, just one question if you or anyone has an idea. When power is applied there is some initial relay chatter. Any idea how to stop that? I'm wanting to use them for a garage door opener so the relay chattering could accidentally open the door in case of a power outage and restoration which would open up the house. That's obviously not so good if it happens while we aren't at home.
Stephen Polzin what code are you using? It's most likely due to the serial port printing. Remove any serial.print commands from your code. On some esp modules this is just unavoidable startup sequence. You can cut the PCB trace and solder a wire from the resistor to an unused pin on the ESP module and modify the code to match the pin change.
SilentDreamcast Thanks but it's pretty immediate on power on and I also tried with the default program when you start of in the ICE and it does the same so I don't think it's even getting to the code yet. It simply toggles the relay IO on and off once and therefore the relay. A couple of capacitors across the relay power seems to have calmed any chatter. I have a theory that it might be only happening on GPIO0 but haven't had time to test it yet. If that's the case I might have to butcher the board a bit to use a different IO. Not sure if it's the same with the -01S version of the ESP and no mods on the board. Anyone tried that?
I figured it must be an internal thing within the ESP bootloader (you have confirmed my suspicion). I don't normally use GPIO 0 because it's a special pin. I can confirm that Startup toggleing doesn't happen on the other pins so i would suggest change the code to use different pin, cut the trace and rewire.
SilentDreamcast yeah that was my thought exactly. I just posted earlier the same thing to the user who said that ESP-01S didn't need your mods. I also found adding a 220uf electrolytic and a .1uf polyester capacitor across the relay coil stops annoying relay chatter.
SilentDreamcast Lol. I liked the look of this module as it was plug and play after I'd fried a couple of ESPs using 5v relay boards due to my dodgy cabling :-) Now it looks like I'm up to mod #3 😄
hi Silent,this type of board work without any modification only with esp8266 esp01s not with esp01.Esp01s is different of esp01.
Sorry, I don't understand your question. The esp8266(esp01) does not need any modification, just programming. The relay board does need modification if you get this exact one.
I want to say if you use relay board ESP-01s with wireless module esp8266-01s you don't need remove 10k resistor or do jump pin Vcc to pin Chpd.Wireless module esp8266-o1 is different from wireless module esp-8266-01S.
Iulian Lazar Hi do you have the same behavior as me with the ESP-01S and no mods of the board that the GPIO0 toggles high then low on power up causing the relay to close and open once?
Mostly, it's the DC power problem, and now in China, the price is less than 1 dollar
Hi there
After the modification is it normal that the relay switches when booting?
Would love to fix that aswell or maybe I've forgotten something?
that is normal. the ESP is checking GPIO 0 if it should be in programming or bootloader mode. we've disgused it before in some older comments. It doesn't appear to be fixable but since it is a short pulse, you can create an R-C circuit between GPIO 0 and the MOSFET gate so that only long on states turn on the relay. Or you can cut the PCB trace and wire the mosfet gate to a different GPIO pin
@@CheckEmGG
Ahaaa ok sadly enough.
I saw that indeed in a post below.
I will do that than seems to be a do-able job. Connecting it to GPIO3.
Does it really matter if the size of the pull down resistor is only 4.7kOhm instead of 10kOhm as stated in that message below.
@@CheckEmGG i read somewhere that the r2 was added to try to stop this but seems this module still on sale they must have made up 10 million of them LOL
I wish I found this a couple of hours ago!! Why they did not do this correctly on the board?!
it's a poorly designed board but for the price I can't complain haha.
@@CheckEmGG Haha very true! Hopefully this one will be making my doorbell smart very soon!
thanks, that relays doesnt do the only thing that they were built in to do
Goddamit, THANKYOU for this, I've been pulling my hair out (and there isn't much as it is) just to get it booting, but it won't pull the relay?
Buy rele v.4 and enjoy!
Why remove the 10k resistor ??
as I state at 4:20, gpio0 is a very specific pin used for setting the device in programming/running mode. When pulled low by the 10K resistor it sets the board into programming mode, meaning it will never run your program.
Who buys this beautiful product which needs smd register altering ? anyway nice effort, nice video.
I would like to see a movie about this relay wlan unit for non tinkerers. That goes like this: 1. Prepare Unit that way. (if you would like to know why watch this movie) . 2. Download this app and upload this code to the wlan unit. (If you want to learn how to modify the code go to this movie. Buy this component to connect via USB to the Wlan unit). 3. Connect to your switch via this app for windows, this app for android etc. Use this settings (If you want to learn more watch this video) . And now enjoy your new wlan switch device.-- I think such a video would attract hundred thousands more viewers not just tinkerers.
same here I am going to start with reading up on the esp module itself ,seems logical. you can find windows software/ and schematics a lot is in chinese so people just buy it any way 'cos it's so cheap and can be made to work with modern firmware with a bit of knowledge as shown here.
I'm at least happy they are cheap. Mine went in the trash.
Thank you.....please share coding
read the description
error generic esp8266 module
you have to download the fauxmo library from their gitHub
github.com/n8henrie/fauxmo
@@CheckEmGG this error happens to me when loading on arduino
ESPAsyncTCP.h no such fiele or director
I may be bad at this, but I fried my ESP doing this. It could be that I took off the same resistor as in the video, when I have a slightly different board, There are a couple other videos with changes to the board as well th-cam.com/video/ul2vtDXREBo/w-d-xo.html
LastI night I found information that indicate GPIOs0-2 present on the ESP8266-01 won't do what I want when using the Arduino boot loader. See the first response in the post;
www.esp8266.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=16141.
GPIOs0-2 are always toggled high by the bootloader and you can't use a pull down resistor as the bootloader interprets the state of these pins to select various boot time options. e.g. Enable programming if GPIO0 is held low at boot. From the link above;
"GPIOs 0, 1, 2 and 15 are pulled HIGH during boot and also driven LOW for short periods.
The device will not boot if 0, 1 or 2 is driven LOW during start-up."
This makes GPIOs 0-2 unsuitable for a relay control app using Arduino code if you can't tolerate this startup behavior or add some components/circuit to work around it (but I don't know what). This relay board was built to use a different firmware for the ESP8266-01 where the boot behavior differs from Arduino and so does not have the same issues, including the CHP_EN pin 4 needing to be held high by the mod you described.
My 11 year old son actually came up with a possible workaround that I, initially, dismissed out of hand :-). He said why not toggle the relay twice after boot so the door stops opening from the boot toggle and then reverses/closes again. I will try this and see if it works but I expect it will.
However I'm still, stubbornly, not willing to give up on the "proper" solution. What I now know is that GPIO3/Tx is also driven high during boot but its state at boot time doesn't influence any Arduino bootloader behavior so my theory is that if I use a pull down resistor to hold this low at boot and don't write anything to the serial port at any time in the code (as that flashes the Tx led/pin) then GPIO3 might work for me.
According to documentation, in the link I mentioned earlier, GPIOs 4 and 5 are the only ones that are always high impedance and the best options for my application but as you know ESP8266-01 only has GPIOs0-3. All other GPIOs on any on the ESP8266 varieties have internal pull-ups or are even driven low/high during boot.
"GPIOs 3, 12, 13 and 14 pulled HIGH during boot. Their actual state does not influence the boot process. See below.
GPIOs 0, 1, 2 and 15 are pulled HIGH during boot and also driven LOW for short periods.
The device will not boot if 0, 1 or 2 is driven LOW during start-up.
GPIO 16 is driven HIGH during boot, don't short to GND."
I will experiment tonight and report back on the results.
Very very interesting. I haven't played with ESP8266 for very long and have only ever used the bootloader that comes with the chip. And the projects i have done with them aren't affected by that quirk (I use it as a quick test "feature"). I'll have to play around more with these too during some free time