I am a big fan of yours. You’re very articulate and thorough with all of your videos. I’ve been a contractor for 45 years and you constantly bringing inspiration to me. Keep up the great work.
Hi Spencer, I did a tear down and armature replacement on my Kapex. I will say it is quite involved, but completely within the realm of an average individual with basic mechanical skills. I bought the replacement armature directly from Festool, but they don't warranty do-it-yourself repairs. The actual armature replacement is quite simple, but the tear down process to get to it takes a while. I watched a couple of you-tube vids on it, and took my time and a lot pictures as i went along. The brushes were still very good with better than 50% life so i did not replace them, which saved me ~$60. All-in-all it took the better part of a day, but after having done it once, I could probably do it now in 4 hrs.
I prefer the bosch glide saw to the kapex. It can go tight to wall, is 1/3 the price, 12" blade, and I find it is just as accurate. Had a Kapex saw for a year, sold it, will never own another one. Enjoyed your video.
I love my Hitachi 10” CFS ( I have 2 of the first generation saws too) I think is the model #. Of course they stopped making the saw years ago but I’m just so in tune with it. I have an older DeWalt 12” I use for larger crown but it’s a beast to lug around lol. I’m looking at the new 71/4 cordless Mikita but I’m thinking my 8” Hitachi will do for now.
Those old hitachi saws are fantastic. I had a 10" model, that I stupidly sold. The 7 1/4" cordless saws are great for small trimwork, cabinet work. I have the Milwaukee M18 sliding 7 1/4" that use for nearly all onsite stuff. I drag out a Dewalt 12" miter saw if I have large base or crown to do. @@tonybrown7847
@@tonybrown7847 I have the 7.25” cordless Milwaukee… love it. For trimming a general home with basic milk work will never need anything more. When I’m trimming custom homes with larger crown, base, millwork in general then I break out my dewalt 12”… oh and for stairs. But the small cordless miter saws will tackle 90% unless your strictly in multi million dollar homes will large profiles. And any brand, I only have the Milwaukee because it was a gift!
@@misterz2719 very impressed by the functionality and low dB. Own a lot of green, but as we know warranty and resale value take away some of the 💲💲pain. All the best from Vancouver Island 🌴🇨🇦
Just checked out your comment on weight of the battery Kapex, they list it in the USA as 39# don't know if it includes the battery weight as well? But now thinking of buying the light weight Kapex :)
@@kwaskeconstruction3382// I have Kapex 60 because I work all the time in different locations, don’t always have convenient access to electricity and sometimes I only need to do couple of cuts. It’s very convenient miter saw. 🤠🇫🇮
Having the lumber rack and the garbage can within arms reach are very production focused additions. I agree on the benefits of pre finished plywood for shop cabinets. You can roll a coat of wood glue on the raw edges as a quick and effective alternative to edge banding. It helps eliminate splinters, grit, and grime like accumulated on A-C ply cabinets.
@MarkZart it's a partition wall ,heated on his side..cold storage in the same building on the other side. Would have taken some insulation work to cut out am guessing.
I also purchased the Kapex, a light saw to move but that was about it. Then I went with the Bosch Glide, too much slop when extended. Finally went with that Makita , front rails like the Kapex but with a much larger table.
I sort of want to trade my Bosch for a Makita but TBH, I wish I could kick the tires on a Makita a bit before buying but no one stocks them in store it seems.
I was able to get the 10” cordless slider by makita when it first came out and it’s the most tuned and true saw I’ve ever used . I got it with a bunch of free batteries so it wasn’t too much of a risk at the time
I purchased a Kapex 15 years ago for a home shop. Although I check it periodically, it came perfectly aligned out of the box, and has never needed any adjustment. Like other Festool products, I appreciate it more as time goes on.
I got mine around the same time and it has been a shop saw up until recently and man it is enjoyable on site. Still have a Dewalt for site work but the Kapex just add a smile to my face.
Add a strip of UHMW tape to the miter saw on the lower surfaces. It will reduce friction and level everything out. I have an 8 inch wide roll of the tape. Lots of uses.
Nice! I personally have an allergy to "Semi-Pop-Culture Products" like Yeti and Kapex, etc. I personally would have notched out my wall to accommodate the Dewalt. I love the Dewalt for being all that it is for a reasonable price. That said, I am so excited for you and your new shop. You are a man of solid character - you earn (sow) what you reap. Thank you!
I have a tape measure in a shallow dado to the left of my miter saw about even with the fence and when it collects junk I naturally just set things behind that line and it's never in the way on cuts. Maybe on the right side try making some sort of demarcation line even with the fence and you'll set stuff behind it and won't have to worry about moving the foreman back and forth. I have a 716, 717 and 780 and went with a Bosch in my miter saw station because it sits pretty tight to the wall. Like it, don't love it. If I had to do it over again I'd probably get another 716 or buy one of the Makita saws.
I’m really liking your setup. Been watching your videos for a year or so and I’ve picked up a few tips and tricks that I didn’t know about. I’ve been doing carpentry for about 30 + years and still learning. Keep on rocking bro
I bought a house a couple of years ago that has a 32'x24' shop. it's a nice building, 10' ceilings, 200amp electrical panel, matches the house. I'm working on the plans now to convert it to a 2 bedroom apartment for supplemental income. Getting close to retirement and all. You've got me wishing I could just turn it into a nice woodworking shop. I spent the last 40 years in construction, first 25 as a carpenter (framer) and the last 15 as an electrician (family business thing). Not sure I have enough time and energy left to start learning how to become a good finish carpenter but your videos are very inspiring! Only thing I might have done different is the cabinet handles. Probably would have went with same thing but more of a U shape. Less chance of cords, cloths, material or anything else getting caught on them. Sorry about the babbling comment, its an old people thing I suppose.
Love my 779 and 780. I woukd of notched out the wall for the saws full swing and boxed the opening. But then the dust collection for the festool looks more practical. Congratulations on your new shop!
Love the channel, simple fix would have been to cut a channel in the plywood allowing the rail to slide back and rotate . Add a 90 degree elbow for dust collection. Kapex is great though, I own one.
Hi Spencer, every higher end miter saw has its own set of values. Your trim carpentry work is spectacular, so simply continue on with building up your new shop location. Wishing you continued success. Thanks for these great segments.
Agree 100%. Wall stand off distance is a valid concern. I already had a Kapex, which I keep in the house and only use only for trim. Bought the DeWalt on your recommendation for framing work. Noticed the wall stand off distance right away.
I love the shop. you know what your getting into with the Kapex, its not your rodeo. If you have one, you love it. If you dont, you hate it. My dad had the same problem with his first Kapex, sent it back to Festool and let them deal with it. Got a new one and problem solved. ANY tool is going to have a few lemons in the batch. My dream would be to one day have the space you have in your shop.
Fes is nice stuff, I could be mistaken, but I think they have a proprietary arbor which is down sized, I almost bought one many years ago, I break down daily so weight is also a concern, fes is reasonably light weight. You the man
Hi Spencer 2:00 The highest level on the saw table with respect to the rest of the saw can be what is called horseback. It prevent the rising disc to splintering the upper face of the table when cutting a piece. We have a Horizontal Beam Saw and have that horseback. Of course, the horseback is effective if the piece is pressed vertically down on both sides of the cutting line, it opens the cutting line on the upper face and prevents chipping. Saludos Gerardo
Love Dw 718 corded, have cutout studs for the swing in a shop very basic and easy to use controls. Unfortunately motor went out about 1 year ago was replaced with kapex...more below. Next like is the 10"Makita cordless for sitework,its very heavy so it lives on a rolling stand,upfront controls are very nice,and was square out of the box 5 yrs ago. Cons detent plate is aluminum,have since bought a replacement ss plate,detent plate is plastic and has been replaced once,and upper fence slides in from the top. Bosch 12" x-glide corded,doesn't take much room in the rear. Cons wide throat when cutting small pieces, spring loads and pushes the saw towards you when pulling down. Festool has small footprint, and dialing the bevel is nice. Cons the worst handle ever,its vertical and you have to depress trigger slightly and the only safety in the group to bring it. down,pull trigger too far and saw comes on. Do not buy if you have shoulder problems. All except Makita have sliding fences. These are what I have used. Well thought out system you have Spencer!
Laminate is the best table top you can have ,glue scrapes off and very durable ,does take a good bit of time and edgebanding done after. Your prefinished definitely is the happiest medium. Paste wax can be applied to both of the above or applied monthly on raw materials. Unfortunately our local hardware store says Johnson pastevwax is no longer being made.
Lots of your usual smart, well-thought-out detailing, and clean execution, Spencer. As for the Kapex, I'm guessing you'll be pleased with your decision.
I ended up having the same problem. I even had extra space for the dewalt, but like you said, the dust collection requires an insane amount of space. I ended up selling the dewalt and getting a kapex for the small footprint.
So glad to see this video, I absolutely love my kapex, it fits in any room, I got the foldable stand and collapsible wings, so I can carry the whole thing in one go, in the shop I bought a dedicated midi vacuum, so it’s expensive, but absolutely no regrets
I have the almost exact setup, but mine is 12' in total length. I used a metabo sliding saw and it works Great! Hooked up dust collection to its rear port and it captures 80%. I have measured it. What falls on the back table is vaccumed daily and its not much. Nice build BTW. I have been following you for a year or more. Love your videos, always informative!
The shop is moving right along, Spencer! Thank you for taking time from somewhere in your 24-days to share your latest endeavor! Lots of ideas for many of us to use in our shops in these videos! I wouldn't have any suggestions for anything I've seen you do so far. All looks well thought out. Except if you ever have to move a Professional Saw Stop Table Saw into your basement cabinet/furniture shop one day and no one is available to help you get it down there, it actually slides down a 14' piece of 1x12 poplar rather nicely when wrapped in a movers blanket.🤣🤣🤣
I have had my fence knocked out of straight (had a bow in it) I loosened up the mounting screws and it popped back straight (winner!). I suspect I had something happen from a kickback or bumped it during removal/reset. Worth a back of brain memory cell. FWIW, I made a plate for my Kapex to protect the table/handle from carts. Easy to make a defeat for the first safety on the Kapex (the one that keeps it from lowering). Just a little wood plate that slides in under the trigger. It has to come out to remove the blade, but not challenging to do. Value is it's faster and simpler to lower the lasers at set up. I really like how your dust collection is set up. Mine is due for a major revision. I built a hood over/behind it. With an overhead 4" pipe, along with a short hose for the hood (no collection, just dump into the back). I though it would be fine for collecting dust; chips could just fill in until I got around to cleaning it. Theory vs reality says it is a fail, still get dust floating/flying out. Need to go the way you did.
highly recommend the woodpecker low profile stop block system so that you could use all of the counter space if needed but since you have such a large shop -I guess not.....
Grab a cheap 4 castor furniture dolly from harbor freight to set that trash can on. Save a little of your back once it starts filling up and you wont wear out the bottom dragging it across the concrete.
22:05 FYI for any sticky residue there’s this stuff called “goof off” that works an absolute treat it’s acetone based and is by far the most effective I’ve ever used, it tends to make the residue ball up and stick to the cloth you’re wiping it off with. Hopefully it’s available on your side of the pond :)
Nice set up! I put a generic Velvor tent/hood around my kapex that's up against the wall. Since it's generic and would work on rear tube sliders (it was huge), I had to shorten the metal bands in it to reduce the radius and width so as to make it fit my saw like a glove. I configured the tent 4" back off the fence and the radius extends 3" wider than the saw on each side. I wanted to tailor it to the debris zone. There is zero hinderance in any position, tilt, bevel, whatever. I think the lip of the tent helps keep more in too and so there is sort of a negative pressure effect within the tent. Debris that fly's in hits the soft tent which is angled, keeping it from bouncing back towards you. I have the same dust hose set up as you are using. I cut a small slot in the tent to feed my 2" hose to the saw head. I never have to wipe debris from a table, just shake the tent a little here and there for anything that didn't fall all the way down to the 4" port in the bottom. I have my saw on the kapex stand, which works out great because by reducing the metal bands, there was excess tent material that I stretched toward the front of the saw and it provides a bib of sorts that extends to the front feet of the saw base, catching everything you inevitably wipe off the scale.
My one suggestion is to add a Rubbermaid Brute Dolly to the shop garbage can next to your miter station. Besides being a back saver I use mine constantly to move parts around the shop. I even use my Rubbermaid garbage can with the dolly as a turntable for painting small stuff. Once you put the dolly on it just follows you everywhere. You will get over the retail price real quick. If you can afford the Kapex you can afford the Rubbermaid Dolly which I think costs more than the garbage can. The Brute Dolly locks to the bottom of the Brute Garbage Can so they become one unit😊 Wonder how the Makita Sliding Compound Mitre Saw would compare to the Kapex - I have never used a Makita Mitre Saw but I bet the price point is way less. Too bad you could not just cut an alcove or installed a bay window and use the DeWalt that you clearly have more faith in. Where in the video do you say you love the Kapex?
Your first comment is spot on and very helpful. Your second comment means that you are not able to invest in your craft to produce finer finished products which could result in higher efficiency and therefore more profitability. Unless you own a Kapex, you can't really give an unbiased opinion.
@@davids8493I like my Festool ecosystem but having said that I seem to get the required results out of my DeWalt, Makita and Milwaukee tools as well for certain tasks. I used to work in Germany and Festool ruled for sure but the second choice seemed to be Makita and not Bosch for commercial work. My German friends tell me they have to give everything equal consideration these days because the customer cannot afford the finished product like they used to. My German friends are productive at scale. I own several Festool, Hilti, and Leica survey instruments. I invest in productivity, accuracy and precision where needed and where there is a ROI for me. I like Spencer because he seems to be brand loyal based on task, utility and proven experience. I take his advice on tools seriously because I do not consider him a tool review influencer. I moved from 5” to 6” Festool sanders based on his advice - it was good advice.
How do you handle the offset between the end of the left side stop block and the saw blade (where you need a stop set for 0 to 6-8”)? Also did you do anything about the pivot table being higher than the wings on the Kapex? Great video as always!
Looks great id stick a sliding shelf under your trash can so you can pull it out easy and a shelf behind mitre saw about 16inch above table i have one its handy
Looks nice! I have a very similar setup. I've been trying to figure out how to add my foreman into my miter station. Now I have to pull my top off and pull a cabinet to incorporate it. I can't wait! One thing I changed was removing my craig fence, which I had on both the left and the right side of my Kapex. The reason was if the material I was cutting had a slight bow it would not let me push tight to the fence. I first tried using t-track flush mounted perpendicular to my fence and then attached my fence with t-bolts allowing me to slide my fence back and forth. This worked but was a giant nightmare to get it lined up and square again. Finally, I just removed the fence since the only thing I really used it for was stop blocks. I'm in the process of flush mounting the double or triple t-track parallel to the Kapex fence so I can use a stop block on the top instead of the back fence. I've only found one or two stops that fold down into the track when not in use and they need a hex wrench to set them (which is a pain). I might just grind down a t-bolt on the long sides so I can insert it anywhere on the track and then twist so it grabs on the short sides so I wouldn't have to slide my stop all the way down the top/t-track to remove it. Having said all that, I do understand I shouldnt cut material on the miter saw that has a bend or bow but unfortunately, usually time wins. (Also thinking of incorporating my bosh glide so I can have the 12" for larger material. Kinda wish they made an 11" miter saw!)
If you haven't already done so, putting strain relief mats down in front of the miter saw and the pocket hole jig will help your knees - while you are still young.
Absolutely. Even a few hours soon concrete will kill your legs/back. I covered my smaller shop entirely with mats. An 8-hour day is so much more manageable that way.
Another job well done Spencer! I wish you much luck with the Kapex. I have had mine since 2008 and the only problem that I have had is sap spitting onto the lens cover for the lasers and blocking out the lasers. Quick cleaning and problem solved. Keep the shop videos coming please. Wishing you continued success. 👍👍
Ive got both setups in the shop. Bonus is that the Kapex is not made in China. I use the variable speed on mine also. Super smooth and the saw was dead nuts out of the box. Cheers from Montana
1600 hundred, ouch! but being a pro and using it everyday its worth it... your shop is looking awesome..you got me thinking about a new miter station for my mikita... wondering if the top counters are melamine or formica? keep up the good work and thanks for sharing your ideas..
Dewalt is the only miter saw that i've been able to buy and it be perfect out of the box. Every milwuakee i've touched has been trash. And I use 90% of milwaukee products
My 10” Milwaukee fuel is awesome more accurate than I anticipated 12ah battery goes forever between charges. Dust collection could be a lot better though
@@jeffreydoerr1489 Is it an old or cheap corded model? Because that likely affects manfacturing date. I'm referring to the last 5 years, I couldn't attest to prior.
@@spycedezynuk That's the saw I have the majority of my experience on. I could get it to about 90% accuracy due to manufacturing issues. When I purchased my Milwaukee, it took 3 other 10" Milwaukee miter saws of the same type before I ended up with the 90%. The Others were much much worse.
@Spencer -- the rubber feet on the bottom of the Kapex are sized to fit the 20mm holes of an MFT table. When the feet are placed in 20mm holes, the saw then rests on solid material and the compression you experienced becomes a non-issue.
I've heard that as far as dust collection goes Makita is the best. Dust collection is one of the biggest factors for me so I'm going to give that one a try. Although I'm sure any of them will be a huge upgrade from my current Ryobi.
Really? Damn maybe I'll do some more research. Went back and the two videos I watched compared it to the Bosch. Looked like the back/lower dust collection helped a lot. They did say it only helped with 90 degree cuts and not miters. Thanks very much for your input! The Bosch is cheaper and so far my second choice.
At this point, I feel that aftermarket dust collection systems are widely available enough, and good enough, it's no longer relevant to worry much about the stock dust collection of a saw. In particular, the dust collection is not good at all on the axial glide and is not much better on the 780, but both of them have options for aftermarket dust collection. Not sure what is out there for the festool and makita saws.
Where did you hear that information? All of the information that I have heard is that the Kapex truly exceeds all the competition in that category. And that is why there is so much aftermarket support for this category because all of the manufacturers don't want to invest in dust collection capabilities. Let the customers figure that out on their own.
I've got the Hitachi (now Metabo). It works great for me on my miter station, and is much cheaper. I do wish it had a shadow line. I use the laser with good results.
I find the new 40 volt 8 1/2" Makita superior in everyday work. Have a Dewalt 12", Kapex used the Bosch but the Makita runs all day on 2 batterys, only 37 pounds, I urge others to get one. I am 55 and a tool freak, wonder if Spencer has used one , never see him with Makita. They have come back from the dead.
Do you own a Kapex? If not, your opinion means nothing. You obviously have no experience with using one and you just want to join all of the cheap and inexperienced trolls who want to scream about Festool prices because they will never be able to afford to get one on their own. Can you do something better with your life?
Looks great Spencer. I heard you talk about pegboard have you checked into Omni wall or wall control steel pegboard they have some really cool features and options. Keep up the great work.
I quickly changed my chop saw fence when i realized how annoying it was when dust or chips get pinched against the material and fence. I designed my chop saw deck with slats so any crap just falls through to my cabinet top where I would just vacuum it off when needed. I was all about production, no time to grab a brush or vacuum each cut.
Love my kapex for sure. Really think the accessories take it to the next level for site work. Dust control is a bit underwhelming but still better than most
I understand the forward rail advantage as your in a shop. Totally makes sense to me. But there are other saws that have this design that do not have a Kapex price tag. The Makita for example seems also be a premium product with a forward rail design but at about half the cost.
I would think the cost of the Kapex would cancel out any extra cost of plywood. Also, you could have bumped out the cabinet even more maybe to 30" and cover the sides with larger end panels then, the only extra material would be in the top. That being said, I love my Kapex and the dust collection.
@@davids8493 no kidding larger end panels would mean more material. Hence the reason for his comment. The extra cost of the end panels would have been much less then the added expense of switching from the Dewalt to the Kapex.
But he already had the whole cabinet section made and installed before he knew the new 780 Dewalt was not the same as his old 718 and he also said with the site work he is short on time needed to devote to getting the shop arranged. So getting the Kapex was most likely more cost effective then redoing the cabinet area.
@@richardlug6139 In the beginning of the video he said it was painful for him to drop $1600.00 on a Kapex. I’m just saying he could have bumped those cabinets out 6”, replaced the top and end panels and been done with it. Timewise maybe a day probably faster with his skill set. The cost is minimal, and the old tops could be repurposed somewhere else in the shop as well as the old end panels. If you wanted to take it one step further, rip 6 inch strips of plywood, and with the help of a domino or biscuit joiner scab them onto the end panels and the top, and they don’t need to be repurposed at all! At the end of the day, I’m happy for him and think he made the right choice even though it was “painful” to do!
@@lowellsmith3413 I guess he could’ve, but like he said in a different comment he thought about it and decided against it, because he has work and other responsibilities. Plus he has other things to get done to get the shop ready to work in. Time is money especially when you are young.
Beautiful set up, well thought out from years of practical use. I’m a bit surprised on your suggestion of hanging peg board. I’ve been frustrated over the years with hanging tools on the loose / flimsy hangers always seemed to fall off. That is likely me being too picky. I might suggest if you use peg board a simple 1x8 or 1x10 shelf along the bottom. Might be a catch all but a handy spot for items.
wondering if you can share some guidance on how you setup that divider/fence so it’s perfectly straight. What’s your allowable tolerance on an extended fence like that?
First of all welcome back to the Kapex world, you were missed all these years! My first Kapex in 2011 had to be returned for calibration issues and the replacement has been great since. I too run that Bosch hose but I can't find an adapter for the vacuum end. The one supplied with the hose shrinks down the diameter quite a bit and larger pieces do get stuck so if you find a Festool fitting like the one on the tool end that let me know.
THANKS FOR YOUR SUPPORT!!!
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I am a big fan of yours. You’re very articulate and thorough with all of your videos. I’ve been a contractor for 45 years and you constantly bringing inspiration to me. Keep up the great work.
Hi Spencer, I did a tear down and armature replacement on my Kapex. I will say it is quite involved, but completely within the realm of an average individual with basic mechanical skills. I bought the replacement armature directly from Festool, but they don't warranty do-it-yourself repairs. The actual armature replacement is quite simple, but the tear down process to get to it takes a while. I watched a couple of you-tube vids on it, and took my time and a lot pictures as i went along. The brushes were still very good with better than 50% life so i did not replace them, which saved me ~$60. All-in-all it took the better part of a day, but after having done it once, I could probably do it now in 4 hrs.
You really are an outstanding presenter, highly articulate with no drama and no hyperbole.
I also appreciate that you don’t have background music.
thank you jeff
I would recommend French cleats over peg board. So much easier to rearrange as you make changes, not to mention stronger.
I can’t say enough how much I appreciate you sharing your knowing and expertise and how much it inspires me to make stuff. Love the shop!
I prefer the bosch glide saw to the kapex. It can go tight to wall, is 1/3 the price, 12" blade, and I find it is just as accurate. Had a Kapex saw for a year, sold it, will never own another one. Enjoyed your video.
I love my Hitachi 10” CFS ( I have 2 of the first generation saws too) I think is the model #. Of course they stopped making the saw years ago but I’m just so in tune with it. I have an older DeWalt 12” I use for larger crown but it’s a beast to lug around lol. I’m looking at the new 71/4 cordless Mikita but I’m thinking my 8” Hitachi will do for now.
Those old hitachi saws are fantastic. I had a 10" model, that I stupidly sold. The 7 1/4" cordless saws are great for small trimwork, cabinet work. I have the Milwaukee M18 sliding 7 1/4" that use for nearly all onsite stuff. I drag out a Dewalt 12" miter saw if I have large base or crown to do. @@tonybrown7847
@@tonybrown7847 I have the 7.25” cordless Milwaukee… love it. For trimming a general home with basic milk work will never need anything more. When I’m trimming custom homes with larger crown, base, millwork in general then I break out my dewalt 12”… oh and for stairs. But the small cordless miter saws will tackle 90% unless your strictly in multi million dollar homes will large profiles. And any brand, I only have the Milwaukee because it was a gift!
Just picked up the cordless model almost 35 lbs lighter then my Bosch ,a real back saver.👍🌴🇨🇦
How is it working out for u ?
@@misterz2719 very impressed by the functionality and low dB.
Own a lot of green, but as we know warranty and resale value take away some of the 💲💲pain.
All the best from Vancouver Island 🌴🇨🇦
Just checked out your comment on weight of the battery Kapex, they list it in the USA as 39# don't know if it includes the battery weight as well? But now thinking of buying the light weight Kapex :)
@@kwaskeconstruction3382// I have Kapex 60 because I work all the time in different locations, don’t always have convenient access to electricity and sometimes I only need to do couple of cuts. It’s very convenient miter saw. 🤠🇫🇮
You have done well! Work smarter not harder. 👍👍
For 1600.00 the saw should be perfectly flat across the table and backstops. Beautiful miter saw station.
Having the lumber rack and the garbage can within arms reach are very production focused additions.
I agree on the benefits of pre finished plywood for shop cabinets. You can roll a coat of wood glue on the raw edges as a quick and effective alternative to edge banding. It helps eliminate splinters, grit, and grime like accumulated on A-C ply cabinets.
left over lates paint or primer works well here too and it's basically free when using up the bottom of a can.
Your shop is incredible !!! Well laid out and efficient !!!! You're a great example of hard work and smarts !!
I had to put a boxed-out window in my shop to give me room for my miter saw. Not the perfect solution but it was cheap, and it worked,
Same and the dewalt handle is definitely more comfortable..
Not sure, but he might be on an outside wall.
@MarkZart it's a partition wall ,heated on his side..cold storage in the same building on the other side.
Would have taken some insulation work to cut out am guessing.
@@2chipped more than one way to skin a cat; I guess he really wanted a Kapex 🤷♂️
I also purchased the Kapex, a light saw to move but that was about it. Then I went with the Bosch Glide, too much slop when extended. Finally went with that Makita , front rails like the Kapex but with a much larger table.
I sort of want to trade my Bosch for a Makita but TBH, I wish I could kick the tires on a Makita a bit before buying but no one stocks them in store it seems.
I was able to get the 10” cordless slider by makita when it first came out and it’s the most tuned and true saw I’ve ever used . I got it with a bunch of free batteries so it wasn’t too much of a risk at the time
If I may suggest rigging up a slide bolt latch to the foreman drawer perfectly inline with your miter saw rail to keep it from moving while using
Man what a setup..you deserve it for sharing your knowledge..
I purchased a Kapex 15 years ago for a home shop. Although I check it periodically, it came perfectly aligned out of the box, and has never needed any adjustment. Like other Festool products, I appreciate it more as time goes on.
I got mine at the same time. I use mine professionally and couldn't be happier. 👍👍
I got mine around the same time and it has been a shop saw up until recently and man it is enjoyable on site. Still have a Dewalt for site work but the Kapex just add a smile to my face.
Add a strip of UHMW tape to the miter saw on the lower surfaces. It will reduce friction and level everything out. I have an 8 inch wide roll of the tape. Lots of uses.
Absolutely brilliant idea!
Nice! I personally have an allergy to "Semi-Pop-Culture Products" like Yeti and Kapex, etc. I personally would have notched out my wall to accommodate the Dewalt. I love the Dewalt for being all that it is for a reasonable price. That said, I am so excited for you and your new shop. You are a man of solid character - you earn (sow) what you reap. Thank you!
I have a tape measure in a shallow dado to the left of my miter saw about even with the fence and when it collects junk I naturally just set things behind that line and it's never in the way on cuts. Maybe on the right side try making some sort of demarcation line even with the fence and you'll set stuff behind it and won't have to worry about moving the foreman back and forth.
I have a 716, 717 and 780 and went with a Bosch in my miter saw station because it sits pretty tight to the wall. Like it, don't love it. If I had to do it over again I'd probably get another 716 or buy one of the Makita saws.
I’ve had great success with WD-40 for removing label adhesive,etc. Love your channel Spencer!
it's also a great paint remover for things like spray gun hoses, , overspray , situations etc.
I’m really liking your setup. Been watching your videos for a year or so and I’ve picked up a few tips and tricks that I didn’t know about. I’ve been doing carpentry for about 30 + years and still learning. Keep on rocking bro
I bought a house a couple of years ago that has a 32'x24' shop. it's a nice building, 10' ceilings, 200amp electrical panel, matches the house. I'm working on the plans now to convert it to a 2 bedroom apartment for supplemental income. Getting close to retirement and all. You've got me wishing I could just turn it into a nice woodworking shop. I spent the last 40 years in construction, first 25 as a carpenter (framer) and the last 15 as an electrician (family business thing). Not sure I have enough time and energy left to start learning how to become a good finish carpenter but your videos are very inspiring! Only thing I might have done different is the cabinet handles. Probably would have went with same thing but more of a U shape. Less chance of cords, cloths, material or anything else getting caught on them. Sorry about the babbling comment, its an old people thing I suppose.
Love my 779 and 780. I woukd of notched out the wall for the saws full swing and boxed the opening. But then the dust collection for the festool looks more practical. Congratulations on your new shop!
The shop is coming along and is looking great. Keep up the good work. Enjoy your new shop!
Should check into the Makita.I switched from the Dewalt which I used forever to the Makita and love it.Also goes tight to the wall like the Kapex.
Love the channel, simple fix would have been to cut a channel in the plywood allowing the rail to slide back and rotate . Add a 90 degree elbow for dust collection.
Kapex is great though, I own one.
Hi Spencer, every higher end miter saw has its own set of values. Your trim carpentry work is spectacular, so simply continue on with building up your new shop location. Wishing you continued success. Thanks for these great segments.
This guy does his research on everything! 👍🏻
Agree 100%. Wall stand off distance is a valid concern. I already had a Kapex, which I keep in the house and only use only for trim. Bought the DeWalt on your recommendation for framing work. Noticed the wall stand off distance right away.
I love the shop. you know what your getting into with the Kapex, its not your rodeo. If you have one, you love it. If you dont, you hate it. My dad had the same problem with his first Kapex, sent it back to Festool and let them deal with it. Got a new one and problem solved. ANY tool is going to have a few lemons in the batch. My dream would be to one day have the space you have in your shop.
Fes is nice stuff, I could be mistaken, but I think they have a proprietary arbor which is down sized, I almost bought one many years ago, I break down daily so weight is also a concern, fes is reasonably light weight.
You the man
Hi Spencer
2:00
The highest level on the saw table with respect to the rest of the saw can be what is called horseback.
It prevent the rising disc to splintering the upper face of the table when cutting a piece.
We have a Horizontal Beam Saw and have that horseback.
Of course, the horseback is effective if the piece is pressed vertically down on both sides of the cutting line, it opens the cutting line on the upper face and prevents chipping.
Saludos
Gerardo
Very interesting!
@@InsiderCarpentry
Very interesting is the way you analyze each project, always seeking and successfully achieving excellence.
bravo!!
And it's height is adjustable
Love Dw 718 corded, have cutout studs for the swing in a shop very basic and easy to use controls.
Unfortunately motor went out about 1 year ago was replaced with kapex...more below.
Next like is the 10"Makita cordless for sitework,its very heavy so it lives on a rolling stand,upfront controls are very nice,and was square out of the box 5 yrs ago.
Cons detent plate is aluminum,have since bought a replacement ss plate,detent plate is plastic and has been replaced once,and upper fence slides in from the top.
Bosch 12" x-glide corded,doesn't take much room in the rear.
Cons wide throat when cutting small pieces, spring loads and pushes the saw towards you when pulling down.
Festool has small footprint, and dialing the bevel is nice.
Cons the worst handle ever,its vertical and you have to depress trigger slightly and the only safety in the group to bring it.
down,pull trigger too far and saw comes on.
Do not buy if you have shoulder problems.
All except Makita have sliding fences.
These are what I have used.
Well thought out system you have Spencer!
Laminate is the best table top you can have ,glue scrapes off and very durable ,does take a good bit of time and edgebanding done after. Your prefinished definitely is the happiest medium.
Paste wax can be applied to both of the above or applied monthly on raw materials.
Unfortunately our local hardware store says Johnson pastevwax is no longer being made.
Well said!
Funny, you and Richard from Finish Carpentry TV are my two favorites and you both just bought the Kapex
I'd be interested in a video covering a shop cabinet build!!!!
good carpenter always respect good quality tools
Lots of your usual smart, well-thought-out detailing, and clean execution, Spencer. As for the Kapex, I'm guessing you'll be pleased with your decision.
Squeeze a hose behind the cabinets for the Foreman. So close the the miter saw drop. You will be glad you did.
I ended up having the same problem. I even had extra space for the dewalt, but like you said, the dust collection requires an insane amount of space. I ended up selling the dewalt and getting a kapex for the small footprint.
So glad to see this video, I absolutely love my kapex, it fits in any room, I got the foldable stand and collapsible wings, so I can carry the whole thing in one go, in the shop I bought a dedicated midi vacuum, so it’s expensive, but absolutely no regrets
I have the almost exact setup, but mine is 12' in total length. I used a metabo sliding saw and it works Great! Hooked up dust collection to its rear port and it captures 80%. I have measured it. What falls on the back table is vaccumed daily and its not much. Nice build BTW. I have been following you for a year or more. Love your videos, always informative!
The shop is moving right along, Spencer! Thank you for taking time from somewhere in your 24-days to share your latest endeavor! Lots of ideas for many of us to use in our shops in these videos!
I wouldn't have any suggestions for anything I've seen you do so far. All looks well thought out. Except if you ever have to move a Professional Saw Stop Table Saw into your basement cabinet/furniture shop one day and no one is available to help you get it down there, it actually slides down a 14' piece of 1x12 poplar rather nicely when wrapped in a movers blanket.🤣🤣🤣
LOL
I have had my fence knocked out of straight (had a bow in it) I loosened up the mounting screws and it popped back straight (winner!). I suspect I had something happen from a kickback or bumped it during removal/reset. Worth a back of brain memory cell. FWIW, I made a plate for my Kapex to protect the table/handle from carts. Easy to make a defeat for the first safety on the Kapex (the one that keeps it from lowering). Just a little wood plate that slides in under the trigger. It has to come out to remove the blade, but not challenging to do. Value is it's faster and simpler to lower the lasers at set up.
I really like how your dust collection is set up. Mine is due for a major revision. I built a hood over/behind it. With an overhead 4" pipe, along with a short hose for the hood (no collection, just dump into the back). I though it would be fine for collecting dust; chips could just fill in until I got around to cleaning it. Theory vs reality says it is a fail, still get dust floating/flying out. Need to go the way you did.
Champagne problems!!! Love it cuz and that shop is beautiful!!!
I use a radial arm saw for the bench and a miter saw for job site. The best of both worlds.
highly recommend the woodpecker low profile stop block system so that you could use all of the counter space if needed but since you have such a large shop -I guess not.....
That’s funny, I did the EXACT same thing when I bought a second Dewalt a few years ago. I went to swap it out and it was miles away from fitting
Grab a cheap 4 castor furniture dolly from harbor freight to set that trash can on. Save a little of your back once it starts filling up and you wont wear out the bottom dragging it across the concrete.
22:05 FYI for any sticky residue there’s this stuff called “goof off” that works an absolute treat it’s acetone based and is by far the most effective I’ve ever used, it tends to make the residue ball up and stick to the cloth you’re wiping it off with. Hopefully it’s available on your side of the pond :)
A standing mat in front of the saw and along the tape finch. To reduce fatigue. Looks great.
Nice set up! I put a generic Velvor tent/hood around my kapex that's up against the wall. Since it's generic and would work on rear tube sliders (it was huge), I had to shorten the metal bands in it to reduce the radius and width so as to make it fit my saw like a glove. I configured the tent 4" back off the fence and the radius extends 3" wider than the saw on each side. I wanted to tailor it to the debris zone. There is zero hinderance in any position, tilt, bevel, whatever. I think the lip of the tent helps keep more in too and so there is sort of a negative pressure effect within the tent. Debris that fly's in hits the soft tent which is angled, keeping it from bouncing back towards you. I have the same dust hose set up as you are using. I cut a small slot in the tent to feed my 2" hose to the saw head. I never have to wipe debris from a table, just shake the tent a little here and there for anything that didn't fall all the way down to the 4" port in the bottom. I have my saw on the kapex stand, which works out great because by reducing the metal bands, there was excess tent material that I stretched toward the front of the saw and it provides a bib of sorts that extends to the front feet of the saw base, catching everything you inevitably wipe off the scale.
My one suggestion is to add a Rubbermaid Brute Dolly to the shop garbage can next to your miter station. Besides being a back saver I use mine constantly to move parts around the shop. I even use my Rubbermaid garbage can with the dolly as a turntable for painting small stuff. Once you put the dolly on it just follows you everywhere. You will get over the retail price real quick. If you can afford the Kapex you can afford the Rubbermaid Dolly which I think costs more than the garbage can. The Brute Dolly locks to the bottom of the Brute Garbage Can so they become one unit😊
Wonder how the Makita Sliding Compound Mitre Saw would compare to the Kapex - I have never used a Makita Mitre Saw but I bet the price point is way less. Too bad you could not just cut an alcove or installed a bay window and use the DeWalt that you clearly have more faith in. Where in the video do you say you love the Kapex?
Your first comment is spot on and very helpful. Your second comment means that you are not able to invest in your craft to produce finer finished products which could result in higher efficiency and therefore more profitability. Unless you own a Kapex, you can't really give an unbiased opinion.
@@davids8493I like my Festool ecosystem but having said that I seem to get the required results out of my DeWalt, Makita and Milwaukee tools as well for certain tasks.
I used to work in Germany and Festool ruled for sure but the second choice seemed to be Makita and not Bosch for commercial work. My German friends tell me they have to give everything equal consideration these days because the customer cannot afford the finished product like they used to. My German friends are productive at scale.
I own several Festool, Hilti, and Leica survey instruments. I invest in productivity, accuracy and precision where needed and where there is a ROI for me. I like Spencer because he seems to be brand loyal based on task, utility and proven experience. I take his advice on tools seriously because I do not consider him a tool review influencer. I moved from 5” to 6” Festool sanders based on his advice - it was good advice.
How do you handle the offset between the end of the left side stop block and the saw blade (where you need a stop set for 0 to 6-8”)? Also did you do anything about the pivot table being higher than the wings on the Kapex? Great video as always!
Looks great id stick a sliding shelf under your trash can so you can pull it out easy and a shelf behind mitre saw about 16inch above table i have one its handy
Same reason I ended up with the Metabo. One of the best values.
Looks nice! I have a very similar setup. I've been trying to figure out how to add my foreman into my miter station. Now I have to pull my top off and pull a cabinet to incorporate it. I can't wait! One thing I changed was removing my craig fence, which I had on both the left and the right side of my Kapex. The reason was if the material I was cutting had a slight bow it would not let me push tight to the fence. I first tried using t-track flush mounted perpendicular to my fence and then attached my fence with t-bolts allowing me to slide my fence back and forth. This worked but was a giant nightmare to get it lined up and square again. Finally, I just removed the fence since the only thing I really used it for was stop blocks. I'm in the process of flush mounting the double or triple t-track parallel to the Kapex fence so I can use a stop block on the top instead of the back fence. I've only found one or two stops that fold down into the track when not in use and they need a hex wrench to set them (which is a pain). I might just grind down a t-bolt on the long sides so I can insert it anywhere on the track and then twist so it grabs on the short sides so I wouldn't have to slide my stop all the way down the top/t-track to remove it. Having said all that, I do understand I shouldnt cut material on the miter saw that has a bend or bow but unfortunately, usually time wins. (Also thinking of incorporating my bosh glide so I can have the 12" for larger material. Kinda wish they made an 11" miter saw!)
We have those cabinet handles in our kitchen. I hate them. Clothes always get caught on them.
Shop is looking great!
I would mill s cap under the fence so crumbs don't sit on the table and ruin the fence accuracy. I would also spray the OSB, for light and look.
The micro adjustability of this saw makes it worth the investment.
In my opinion
your should of got a radial arm saw
There you go. Old school.
I just dont see it with the Festools, I'm not a big fan of all of Makita tools but their chop box and circular saws are what I like. Very nice shop❤
If only Dewalt would bring their 10” miter saw to the USA.
Gonna be building a garage shop soon --this video has given me lots of inspiration! Thanks!
If you haven't already done so, putting strain relief mats down in front of the miter saw and the pocket hole jig will help your knees - while you are still young.
Absolutely. Even a few hours soon concrete will kill your legs/back. I covered my smaller shop entirely with mats. An 8-hour day is so much more manageable that way.
You need some large panel TVs and ........ 🤔 a disco ball. That should finish it off really well ! 😊
Beautiful setup! Thanks for sharing
Another job well done Spencer! I wish you much luck with the Kapex. I have had mine since 2008 and the only problem that I have had is sap spitting onto the lens cover for the lasers and blocking out the lasers. Quick cleaning and problem solved. Keep the shop videos coming please. Wishing you continued success. 👍👍
Ive got both setups in the shop. Bonus is that the Kapex is not made in China. I use the variable speed on mine also. Super smooth and the saw was dead nuts out of the box. Cheers from Montana
Dewalt 780 is also not made in China. They are made in Thailand and/or Mexico.
1600 hundred, ouch! but being a pro and using it everyday its worth it... your shop is looking awesome..you got me thinking about a new miter station for my mikita... wondering if the top counters are melamine or formica? keep up the good work and thanks for sharing your ideas..
Melamine from menards!
Dewalt is the only miter saw that i've been able to buy and it be perfect out of the box. Every milwuakee i've touched has been trash. And I use 90% of milwaukee products
Milwaukee miter saw is the worst in the game
My dewalt wasn't even close to being straight across the turntable.
My 10” Milwaukee fuel is awesome more accurate than I anticipated 12ah battery goes forever between charges. Dust collection could be a lot better though
@@jeffreydoerr1489 Is it an old or cheap corded model? Because that likely affects manfacturing date. I'm referring to the last 5 years, I couldn't attest to prior.
@@spycedezynuk That's the saw I have the majority of my experience on. I could get it to about 90% accuracy due to manufacturing issues. When I purchased my Milwaukee, it took 3 other 10" Milwaukee miter saws of the same type before I ended up with the 90%. The Others were much much worse.
Looks fantastic. Nice to have all that room.
@Spencer -- the rubber feet on the bottom of the Kapex are sized to fit the 20mm holes of an MFT table. When the feet are placed in 20mm holes, the saw then rests on solid material and the compression you experienced becomes a non-issue.
Interesting. That makes sense!
I've heard that as far as dust collection goes Makita is the best. Dust collection is one of the biggest factors for me so I'm going to give that one a try. Although I'm sure any of them will be a huge upgrade from my current Ryobi.
I have a Makita 12" sliding compound and the dust collection on it sucks, to put it mildly.
Really? Damn maybe I'll do some more research. Went back and the two videos I watched compared it to the Bosch. Looked like the back/lower dust collection helped a lot. They did say it only helped with 90 degree cuts and not miters. Thanks very much for your input! The Bosch is cheaper and so far my second choice.
@@bankruptjojo5009Buy a saw that Travis from Shop Nation has developed a dust collection attachment for. Look him up if you haven’t.
At this point, I feel that aftermarket dust collection systems are widely available enough, and good enough, it's no longer relevant to worry much about the stock dust collection of a saw. In particular, the dust collection is not good at all on the axial glide and is not much better on the 780, but both of them have options for aftermarket dust collection. Not sure what is out there for the festool and makita saws.
Where did you hear that information? All of the information that I have heard is that the Kapex truly exceeds all the competition in that category. And that is why there is so much aftermarket support for this category because all of the manufacturers don't want to invest in dust collection capabilities. Let the customers figure that out on their own.
I've got the Hitachi (now Metabo). It works great for me on my miter station, and is much cheaper. I do wish it had a shadow line. I use the laser with good results.
Relly nice set up. I agree with the deficiency of the DeWalt saw and dust collection. That's the one thing I hate about that saw.
What’s another?
That is a nice big shop. Lots of room for future growth.
I like the dual dust ports
I find the new 40 volt 8 1/2" Makita superior in everyday work. Have a Dewalt 12", Kapex used the Bosch but the Makita runs all day on 2 batterys, only 37 pounds, I urge others to get one. I am 55 and a tool freak, wonder if Spencer has used one , never see him with Makita. They have come back from the dead.
I haven't touched a Makita but I'd like to.
I love mine 2 (one at home and at work). Light, powerful, and accurate after calibration.
Bosch axial arm. I love mine. Had it about 4yrs
I enjoy watching your videos and learn from your tips.
Well done. Consider air/blow gun options there.
The new dewalt I have has the dust port up top, still not as short as the kpex but in a better place for a hose
Interesting.
I need a Lewis hoodie
Your moving to the Darkside !!😄
Garbage can next to the Kapex? Maybe one of those tree mulching thingys to gobble up the scrap lumber??? Something I always thought of :)
You really should've looked at the bosch or makita miter saws. Much better than the festool miter
Do you own a Kapex? If not, your opinion means nothing. You obviously have no experience with using one and you just want to join all of the cheap and inexperienced trolls who want to scream about Festool prices because they will never be able to afford to get one on their own. Can you do something better with your life?
Looks great Spencer. I heard you talk about pegboard have you checked into Omni wall or wall control steel pegboard they have some really cool features and options. Keep up the great work.
I bet you could find some large Teflon type of tape that would help level out the bed.
One day I'd love a Kapex. It is nice to see that even Festool goofs up sometimes though.
If you have no clearance at the back the folding Bosch mitre saw is good at does not have back clearance problems.
I quickly changed my chop saw fence when i realized how annoying it was when dust or chips get pinched against the material and fence. I designed my chop saw deck with slats so any crap just falls through to my cabinet top where I would just vacuum it off when needed. I was all about production, no time to grab a brush or vacuum each cut.
Looks good young man
Great layout for works for your needs! Keep us posted on the continued progress!
Love my kapex for sure. Really think the accessories take it to the next level for site work. Dust control is a bit underwhelming but still better than most
I understand the forward rail advantage as your in a shop. Totally makes sense to me. But there are other saws that have this design that do not have a Kapex price tag. The Makita for example seems also be a premium product with a forward rail design but at about half the cost.
Makita has some major issues. Aluminum detent plate. Rails don't align causing curved cuts. Poor dust collection.
I would think the cost of the Kapex would cancel out any extra cost of plywood. Also, you could have bumped out the cabinet even more maybe to 30" and cover the sides with larger end panels then, the only extra material would be in the top. That being said, I love my Kapex and the dust collection.
Project design and quantity of materials is why he built them to those specifications. Larger end panels means more quantity of materials.
@@davids8493 no kidding larger end panels would mean more material. Hence the reason for his comment. The extra cost of the end panels would have been much less then the added expense of switching from the Dewalt to the Kapex.
But he already had the whole cabinet section made and installed before he knew the new 780 Dewalt was not the same as his old 718 and he also said with the site work he is short on time needed to devote to getting the shop arranged. So getting the Kapex was most likely more cost effective then redoing the cabinet area.
@@richardlug6139 In the beginning of the video he said it was painful for him to drop $1600.00 on a Kapex. I’m just saying he could have bumped those cabinets out 6”, replaced the top and end panels and been done with it. Timewise maybe a day probably faster with his skill set. The cost is minimal, and the old tops could be repurposed somewhere else in the shop as well as the old end panels. If you wanted to take it one step further, rip 6 inch strips of plywood, and with the help of a domino or biscuit joiner scab them onto the end panels and the top, and they don’t need to be repurposed at all! At the end of the day, I’m happy for him and think he made the right choice even though it was “painful” to do!
@@lowellsmith3413 I guess he could’ve, but like he said in a different comment he thought about it and decided against it, because he has work and other responsibilities. Plus he has other things to get done to get the shop ready to work in. Time is money especially when you are young.
Love the layout, well thought out
Beautiful set up, well thought out from years of practical use. I’m a bit surprised on your suggestion of hanging peg board. I’ve been frustrated over the years with hanging tools on the loose / flimsy hangers always seemed to fall off. That is likely me being too picky.
I might suggest if you use peg board a simple 1x8 or 1x10 shelf along the bottom. Might be a catch all but a handy spot for items.
Waiting for a update to that saw with a brushless motor
wondering if you can share some guidance on how you setup that divider/fence so it’s perfectly straight. What’s your allowable tolerance on an extended fence like that?
First of all welcome back to the Kapex world, you were missed all these years! My first Kapex in 2011 had to be returned for calibration issues and the replacement has been great since. I too run that Bosch hose but I can't find an adapter for the vacuum end. The one supplied with the hose shrinks down the diameter quite a bit and larger pieces do get stuck so if you find a Festool fitting like the one on the tool end that let me know.