If it's 100' total (so 3 rows of 33'), maybe one hole per feet, 2x5Gall = 10Gall we got about 0.1 Gallon per plant. A full grown tomato plant can take up to 2 Gall in a hot day. So, you will have to fill theses 2 pales 20 times/day. (Or 60 times/day if it's 3 length of 100 feets). Simple math: Take the volume of water, divide it by the number of holes and you get the amount of water each plant will get. I'm not sure if he show us 3X33' or 3X100'? I use this system in Haiti 10 years ago. It's not perfect, but it's the best ROI you can get. Without it, it's too hard to manually water the whole field. With this, 100% of water is use to grow food.
How about a mention of how to prepare the drip line itself. Is it fabricated or bought. If fabricated, how so? Probably the most important aspect other than filtering
Q..? Did you use emitter type tube or make your own holes? Also, in the 100’ run, how many drip holes were you able to install? What spacing was used? Thanks very much!!
Thank You for the very fast reply. I will check out those sights. I need to find out about fertilization with the gravity fed drip irrigation. Again Thank You.
Why 3 feet in height? I have a 30 gal trash can setup similar but a lot smaller tubing and distance. I want it to water plants for 1 week if possible, and be able to adjust the flow rate. And KEEP that flow rate until the can is empty. Any suggestions? Using aquarium tubing and aquarium air manifold (to adjust flow rate), no emitters. I read that emitters need at least 2-3 PsI to work properly. SO I don't use them.
thank you for the tutorial, but I have a bed with a length of 17 meters as much as 22. how do I use gravity to flow through my plants as many as 1454 plants?
Thanks sir the work is very nice and reliable, I get an acre of land which the soil is very fertile and water is too deep to dig for irrigation, i would like to use this methode for supplying the erea . i would like to experience this work how can you help me for?
Sir, I want to install this system for a plantation plot of area 0.60 ha. The spacing of plantation is 12 m × 8 m. Please inform me to whom I should contact for further details.
good idea bt i wann know whether this works in macro levels using resevoirs of high capacity upto 1000lts and above n i all wann some suggestions regarding ur project hw may i contact u
Thanks for the question! Firstly, I am not an irrigation designer; I wanted a simple system for my garden and I did some basic research and tested out this design (this is a very basic system). If I replaced my buckets with a 1000 L tank, this system would still work. The static and dynamic pressures might change depending on the dimensions of the reservoir (If the tank is taller than my head pressure would be greater). As it stands I believe I have ~2 PSI (static pressure) in my system with my buckets at their current elevation and when they are full. As the water level drops I lose head pressure. I don't know what my dynamic pressure (flowing or working water) is, but it is enough to allow the low pressure drip tape to function enough such that I am happy with the amount of water my plants receive (for my climate). I'm thinking about making a separate video going over the basic (VERY BASIC) pressure principles of gravity irrigation. The Guiding Design Principle of my Project: Mobility I don't have pressurized water (or any close water source) where my garden is located. I wanted a system that I could move around easily subsequent years following crop rotations. Not all of the crops I grow require constant/consistent irrigation except when we have dry spells. That is why I just have a small bucket as my reservoir, I'm not using the system all the time (again, in my climate, I don't need too). I imagine you are trying to set up a somewhat permanent or fixed system based on the 1000 L reservoir. I imagine with that size reservoir you are also looking to irrigate over a larger scale than I am. When you are trying to design a gravity system for Capacity, you'll have to pay more attention to dynamic pressure (longer lengths of pipe means more pressure loss due to friction). You will also have to come up with a way of filling such a large tank; I just carry a couple of buckets of water over when I need to use my system. I certainly am not qualified to help design such a system, you'll probably need to consult a professional or conduct more research yourself. Here are some resources that you may find useful (these links are safe, but always be wary of clicking links in TH-cam comments). How Elevation affects Pressure www.irrigationtutorials.com/elevation-pressure-loss-in-irrigation-systems/ Rain Bird Technical Newsletter describing Design Considerations of Irrigation System www.rainbird.ca/documents/turf/ASC_Winter01.pdf Rain Bird Design Manual (has sample problems and solutions for static and dynamic pressures) www.rainbird.ca/documents/turf/IrrigationDesignManual.pdf Irrigation Direct Gravity Irrigation for Vegetable Garden Tutorial www.irrigationdirect.ca/docs/Gravity%20Feed%20Irrigation%20Systemss%20For%20Vegetable%20Gardens%20and%20Organic%20Crops.pdf
For connecting the barbed connector of the drip tape to the polyline, the punch that was sent was too small. I had to ream it out with a 9.5 mm (3/8 inch) spike. If you meant the hole in the bucket for the bulkhead fitting, I think it was a 22 mm (7/8") hole.
Hi.. I wanna ask the size the pipe that you use for the irrigation? And how to call thr filter that you install in you gravity fed drip irrigation system.. I want to try it coz watwr is very scarce is my place..
Frequency of watering: Whenever I feel the soil needs moisture. How often do I fill the water bucket? Whenever I feel the soil needs moisture. I'll put between 1 1/2 to 2 buckets of water in the system at a time.
This system is a stopgap measure if we have a long stretch without significant rainfall. There has been stretches of time where I don't put water in the system for over a week. Sometimes I have to irrigate every 2-3-4 days. *_It all depends on your climate and your soil._*
understood... now.. 1.when you irrigate how much time you irrigate.(total capacity of your containers) 2. quantity of water per plant when there is no rainy season?
1. That is a 5 gallon bucket. I'll put between 8-10 gallons of water in during an irrigation session. The time it takes to drain is not precise; I've had it drain very quickly in 20-30 minutes, and up to an hour if there is a lot of foreign materials in the water. 2. The plants get the amount of water I feel they need. I stick my hand in the soil and check for moisture. If the soil can hold its shape and yet is still friable, I am satisfied. If it can't hold its shape I irrigate. Different plants have different water requirements, which are affected by climate and soil conditions. Conduct your own research. I've provided a link to the Queensland Government's "Land Requirements of Watermelons". Take careful note of the line just above the provided values under the IRRIGATION heading. www.daf.qld.gov.au/plants/fruit-and-vegetables/vegetables/melons/further-information-watermelons/land-requirements-watermelon
hae, from the clip your garden has three beds, if you raised a 10000 liter tank to ten meter height how many beds of four drip lines and of what distance can i manage to irrigate effectively. please
Mere pass 5000ltr Ka water tank hai use muze syphon water drip irrigation system fitting karni hai,ground level se tank ki hight 4.5ft hai, and coconut trees ki length 500ft hai... So give me a sugetion for the system....
Not sure what you're asking, and I have no idea what the water requirements of coconut trees are. Check the following links on how these systems work (and how to perform rough calculations) given whatever your parameters are. This page from Irrigation Direct Canada has a number of tutorials on irrigation systems www.irrigationdirect.ca/Drip-Irrigation-Tutorials.html, and myelms.umd.edu/courses/969642/files/27532357?module_item_id=6128404 explains the basic principles of pressure.
Hi is there a specific reason for using two pails other than having more water available if so can you explain? Also can you emphasize on the fittings you used on the pails I am setting up a 275 gallon holding tank for water and I will not have access to the inside of the tank to apply a nut to a fitting... I know there are fittings for my scenario I just do not know what they are called... Thank you for your time, Peter
Hi Peter. The two buckets in the thumbnail are for two separate beds: 1 bucket per one 3'x100' bed. In the video before I set up one system for the season, I moved it to the end of the bed to see how effectively it would work going "uphill". It didn't stay there, I just did that for comparison. Fittings I used were bulkhead fittings from an irrigation store, and I'm not sure what fittings you could do in your situation. Sorry I can't help more!
Yes it is in use. I'm editing a video going over the setup in a little more depth (including common questions). Some issues: 1. Must use clean water, particulates can clog line and drip tape, so make sure your water source and buckets are clean. 2. If you don't put the cover back on after irrigating, mosquito will breed inside of bucket. 3. Light coloured buckets may allow algae to grow. 4. Angle of header hose (black polypipe) is critical for correct irrigation; you might have a downhill slope in your garden, but if the water has to go "uphill" through the header hose it will affect your rate (this is a very low PSI system). Most of the issues are just about proper management. This obviously inst as convenient as an in-ground pressurized irrigation system, but it does have some advantages: 1. Mobility (If I can carry a couple of buckets of water and work with the lay of the land, I can irrigate anywhere). 2. Low footprint (No hoses or lines running from a water source to the garden, i.e. no hoses to trip over, cut with a lawnmower, and less draining to do in winter months) 3. Storage (I can put a filter, drip tape, hose clamps in the bucket to store, only thing that won't fit in is the long header hose. I can then store the buckets or use as needed; I used them as the legs for my grow table this year, very handy)
Hi Splitseed Garden: I am a brand new beginner and am trying to learn.You have two five gal. Buckets, one for priming. The other for the drip tape. You have three rows. how many buckets is needed to water all of them? What size drip tape do You use? What would happen if I used a much larger water tank like 500 gal. Please bear with me. Thank You for the great video
Hi, and thanks for watching! I'll try to explain things better. 1) That table holds two orange buckets (call them reservoirs); each reservoir is responsible for one 100 foot row of plants. 2) The drip tape I use is 5/8" (16mm) 15 Mil 8" Spacing Hi-Flow .34GPM/100' 3) It takes 10 gallons of water to irrigate each row for my purposes. I first dump 5 gallons into a reservoir. That 5 gallons drains quickly, as it is filling an empty 100 foot run of drip tape. Once the reservoir is almost empty (which means the drip tape must be full of water), I add the next 5 gallons of water. This 5 gallons drains slower, as the drip tape has already been "primed" (full of water). This gets me the consistent irrigation levels that I am looking for in my conditions. If you put a 500 gallon tank at the same height as my reservoirs in a garden (that also has a similar slope to mine), this system would work. If you put the 500 gallon tank at a higher height, the system would also still work. If you are trying to pump uphill, or fill multiple runs from one reservoir you'll likely have to raise the height of your reservoir to increase the static pressure. My static pressure is around 2 psi. Here are some resources that you may find useful. I found the Rain Bird Design Manual to be particularly helpful. How Elevation affects Pressure www.irrigationtutorials.com/elevation-pressure-loss-in-irrigation-systems/ Rain Bird Technical Newsletter describing Design Considerations of Irrigation System www.rainbird.ca/documents/turf/ASC_Winter01.pdf Rain Bird Design Manual (has sample problems and solutions for static and dynamic pressures) www.rainbird.ca/documents/turf/IrrigationDesignManual.pdf Irrigation Direct Gravity Irrigation for Vegetable Garden Tutorial www.irrigationdirect.ca/docs/Gravity%20Feed%20Irrigation%20Systemss%20For%20Vegetable%20Gardens%20and%20Organic%20Crops.pdf
Thanks for watching! Main thing is water pressure. If you don't have enough water pressure your drip tape won't work properly. This pressure is generally easy to achieve off of a pressurized system (i.e. a cities water main or your house's water supply). If you are using a gravity system like this you'll need to learn some basics about static water pressure and how to increase it. Check the links I provide in previous comments, that is what I used to figure out and trial the system. Hope it helps!
Between 15-25 minutes for two buckets of water. I pour one bucket of water in, which drains fairly quickly because it primes the line. When the orange reservoir is less than half full I pour the other bucket of water in to maintain consistent irrigation.
Thanks for watching! I'm not sure what you mean by "manual pressure kit", you can purchase a gravity irrigation kit like this: www.irrigationdirect.ca/DK-GFCW-M-Gravity-Feed-Drip-Irrigation-Kit-for-Clean-Water-MED.html . I purchased all the parts of my system separately to fit my needs and just to experiment. If you are looking for more information about designing gravity irrigation systems I would look at these tutorials www.irrigationdirect.ca/Gravity-Feed-Irrigation-Systems.html
I don't know. I usually just go by how the soil feels. I look for moist soil that can hold its shape but is still friable. It depends a lot on your soil type, its infiltration rate, your climate, and the type of plant you are growing. If its in a pot, use a watering can. If it takes 1-3 seconds for the water to percolate through the soil (the soil loses its "shininess"), that's probably enough water.
Hi Splitseed Garden. Is not the pressure higher at the end of the slope, so at the end of the pipeline, and consequently more water coming out at the end than at the beginning, with the same hole size for the drip? That wouldn't water all the plants evenly. Thank you
You're half right, but drip rate is slower at end vs. head of the bed, as the drip tape isn't as "pressurized" towards the end of the bed. I've not noticed any ill effects of the slower drip rate at the end of the bed, my plants seemed to get sufficient water. You can think of this as a supplementary and not primary irrigation source.
hello there, great video i have some land and we use tradition flood irrigsation on it but i am thinking of installing drip irrigation system on the whole filed but before making this huge investment i want to run test small scale lets say 100ft just to understand this system and see if its really as effective as claimed.so can you tell me few things 1:where can i find basic calculations ie how much height to place reservoir , pressure from reservior to end of system etc. 2: how do i add fertilizer using your system as in what quantities and do i mix it in bucket. 3:spacing how do i calculate spacing i mean basic design information. the thing is Pakistan hasnt done big research on this system so its realy hard to find any information or expert here. So any help will be appriciated! Thankyou
1. After I've primed my line and filled the bucket again to the brim, I believe I have just over 2 psi. As the height of water in the bucket drops, so does my pressure. This page from Irrigation Direct Canada has a number of tutorials on irrigation systems www.irrigationdirect.ca/Drip-Irrigation-Tutorials.html, and myelms.umd.edu/courses/969642/files/27532357?module_item_id=6128404 explains the basic principles of pressure. I based my design off of their gravity system, but instead of using soaker hose I used drip tape instead.
2. Water availability is the reason why I installed the system in my area, but I can see how it would be useful for liquid fertilizer applications. I would go with whatever the instructions were that came with your product; one organic fertilizer I looked at called for 5mL of fertilizer per 1L of water.
Install a mini thread inline ball valve at the bottom of filter. Quick and easy way to clean out main filter.
This is great information! I really appreciate you posting this! I'm going to try this but add an IBC as a tank to catch rainwater to fill my buckets!
A nice mesh or cheese cloth would be perfect taped around the lid. It would keep out sediment and you would still be able to add water
If it's 100' total (so 3 rows of 33'), maybe one hole per feet, 2x5Gall = 10Gall we got about 0.1 Gallon per plant.
A full grown tomato plant can take up to 2 Gall in a hot day. So, you will have to fill theses 2 pales 20 times/day. (Or 60 times/day if it's 3 length of 100 feets).
Simple math:
Take the volume of water, divide it by the number of holes and you get the amount of water each plant will get.
I'm not sure if he show us 3X33' or 3X100'?
I use this system in Haiti 10 years ago. It's not perfect, but it's the best ROI you can get. Without it, it's too hard to manually water the whole field. With this, 100% of water is use to grow food.
This is the most economical diy drip irrigation system in TH-cam. Thanks
So efficient design.good work
How about a mention of how to prepare the drip line itself. Is it fabricated or bought. If fabricated, how so? Probably the most important aspect other than filtering
Q..?
Did you use emitter type tube or make your own holes? Also, in the 100’ run, how many drip holes were you able to install? What spacing was used?
Thanks very much!!
can you provide a list of materials you used and do you have any other videos on setup of this system?
Thank You for the very fast reply. I will check out those sights. I need to find out about fertilization with the gravity fed drip irrigation. Again Thank You.
I'd like to build this system for my barrel plants but I don't see a material list.
its kinda hard to believe that those two buckets could feed those 3 long beds wow.
I have an idea ! For a level bed just put another bucket on the opposite side. I haven't seen anyone do this yet I'd like to see the results
Outstanding. This is efficient gardening.
Is it possible if water is placed at 6' high and we can water to 200' long bed ? ? Love from India!
Do you have a video on how you put the pipe together in the bucket, that is what I was looking for? TY!
Why 3 feet in height?
I have a 30 gal trash can setup similar but a lot smaller tubing and distance.
I want it to water plants for 1 week if possible, and be able to adjust the flow rate.
And KEEP that flow rate until the can is empty.
Any suggestions?
Using aquarium tubing and aquarium air manifold (to adjust flow rate), no emitters.
I read that emitters need at least 2-3 PsI to work properly. SO I don't use them.
How many lines of 100 ft. Will irrigate by this ?
thank you for the tutorial, but I have a bed with a length of 17 meters as much as 22. how do I use gravity to flow through my plants as many as 1454 plants?
How much water do you use per day per row & how long do you keep tbe drip running per day?
What is the diameter of the irrigation tubing and the diameter and spacing of the holes in it? Also. the name of the maker?
Can a tank on 1m stand be able to reach a 100m distance to water e plants
How long does a bucket last, 1 day?
how does the water get into the bucket?
Could this be used to water raised beds? I would need to incorporate 90 degree angles in the tubing.
Thanks sir the work is very nice and reliable, I get an acre of land which the soil is very fertile and water is too deep to dig for irrigation, i would like to use this methode for supplying the erea . i would like to experience this work how can you help me for?
only 1.5psi， pressure enough for tape？
Hi Big Mac
Sir, I want to install this system for a plantation plot of area 0.60 ha. The spacing of plantation is 12 m × 8 m. Please inform me to whom I should contact for further details.
Maybe a stupid question but for how long is a full bucket irrigating the plants?
Can it work in different terrain? Or you need a flat level land
Hello.this is exactly what I had jn mind. I justneed now to k own what I need.
How many days does the 5 gallons last before you have to refill?
How long the water will last from 1 bucket?
good idea bt i wann know whether this works in macro levels using resevoirs of high capacity upto 1000lts and above n i all wann some suggestions regarding ur project hw may i contact u
Thanks for the question! Firstly, I am not an irrigation designer; I wanted a simple system for my garden and I did some basic research and tested out this design (this is a very basic system).
If I replaced my buckets with a 1000 L tank, this system would still work. The static and dynamic pressures might change depending on the dimensions of the reservoir (If the tank is taller than my head pressure would be greater).
As it stands I believe I have ~2 PSI (static pressure) in my system with my buckets at their current elevation and when they are full. As the water level drops I lose head pressure. I don't know what my dynamic pressure (flowing or working water) is, but it is enough to allow the low pressure drip tape to function enough such that I am happy with the amount of water my plants receive (for my climate). I'm thinking about making a separate video going over the basic (VERY BASIC) pressure principles of gravity irrigation.
The Guiding Design Principle of my Project: Mobility
I don't have pressurized water (or any close water source) where my garden is located. I wanted a system that I could move around easily subsequent years following crop rotations. Not all of the crops I grow require constant/consistent irrigation except when we have dry spells. That is why I just have a small bucket as my reservoir, I'm not using the system all the time (again, in my climate, I don't need too).
I imagine you are trying to set up a somewhat permanent or fixed system based on the 1000 L reservoir. I imagine with that size reservoir you are also looking to irrigate over a larger scale than I am. When you are trying to design a gravity system for Capacity, you'll have to pay more attention to dynamic pressure (longer lengths of pipe means more pressure loss due to friction). You will also have to come up with a way of filling such a large tank; I just carry a couple of buckets of water over when I need to use my system. I certainly am not qualified to help design such a system, you'll probably need to consult a professional or conduct more research yourself.
Here are some resources that you may find useful (these links are safe, but always be wary of clicking links in TH-cam comments).
How Elevation affects Pressure
www.irrigationtutorials.com/elevation-pressure-loss-in-irrigation-systems/
Rain Bird Technical Newsletter describing Design Considerations of Irrigation System
www.rainbird.ca/documents/turf/ASC_Winter01.pdf
Rain Bird Design Manual (has sample problems and solutions for static and dynamic pressures)
www.rainbird.ca/documents/turf/IrrigationDesignManual.pdf
Irrigation Direct Gravity Irrigation for Vegetable Garden Tutorial
www.irrigationdirect.ca/docs/Gravity%20Feed%20Irrigation%20Systemss%20For%20Vegetable%20Gardens%20and%20Organic%20Crops.pdf
Is there any way to add more pressure to the water?
What is the ratio of height of water reservoir and the length of drip line
Thank you
Can you show us the making also
How long is pipe and what u did please explain
Nice guitar pickin'
Do you ever have issues with the reservoir going cloudy if it's completely sealed?
quick Q, what size drill did you use for the hoses?
For connecting the barbed connector of the drip tape to the polyline, the punch that was sent was too small. I had to ream it out with a 9.5 mm (3/8 inch) spike.
If you meant the hole in the bucket for the bulkhead fitting, I think it was a 22 mm (7/8") hole.
Can this be done with a 500 gallon tank?
Hi.. I wanna ask the size the pipe that you use for the irrigation? And how to call thr filter that you install in you gravity fed drip irrigation system.. I want to try it coz watwr is very scarce is my place..
how much area can this type of irrigation cover in hactares please help
Would it the same concept if I use 55 gal barrel
Nice information thank you 👍🌹
Excellent for drought regions
Very true. Putting the water where you need it, and nowheres where you don't; good water conservation.
what type of drip tape did you use? Gph on this one? Psi minimum?
how often do you have to fill 5 gallon bucket? I'm looking for this to help start corn in a garden deep in my lot
Pls tell me where can purchase sediment filter
what is the frequency of watering??
what is the frequency of filling your water can??
Frequency of watering: Whenever I feel the soil needs moisture.
How often do I fill the water bucket? Whenever I feel the soil needs moisture. I'll put between 1 1/2 to 2 buckets of water in the system at a time.
but what is your observation .??..i mean (the day intervals)
This system is a stopgap measure if we have a long stretch without significant rainfall. There has been stretches of time where I don't put water in the system for over a week. Sometimes I have to irrigate every 2-3-4 days.
*_It all depends on your climate and your soil._*
understood...
now..
1.when you irrigate how much time you irrigate.(total capacity of your containers)
2. quantity of water per plant when there is no rainy season?
1. That is a 5 gallon bucket. I'll put between 8-10 gallons of water in during an irrigation session. The time it takes to drain is not precise; I've had it drain very quickly in 20-30 minutes, and up to an hour if there is a lot of foreign materials in the water.
2. The plants get the amount of water I feel they need. I stick my hand in the soil and check for moisture. If the soil can hold its shape and yet is still friable, I am satisfied. If it can't hold its shape I irrigate.
Different plants have different water requirements, which are affected by climate and soil conditions. Conduct your own research. I've provided a link to the Queensland Government's "Land Requirements of Watermelons". Take careful note of the line just above the provided values under the IRRIGATION heading.
www.daf.qld.gov.au/plants/fruit-and-vegetables/vegetables/melons/further-information-watermelons/land-requirements-watermelon
hae, from the clip your garden has three beds, if you raised a 10000 liter tank to ten meter height how many beds of four drip lines and of what distance can i manage to irrigate effectively. please
Mere pass 5000ltr Ka water tank hai use muze syphon water drip irrigation system fitting karni hai,ground level se tank ki hight 4.5ft hai, and coconut trees ki length 500ft hai... So give me a sugetion for the system....
Not sure what you're asking, and I have no idea what the water requirements of coconut trees are. Check the following links on how these systems work (and how to perform rough calculations) given whatever your parameters are.
This page from Irrigation Direct Canada has a number of tutorials on irrigation systems www.irrigationdirect.ca/Drip-Irrigation-Tutorials.html, and myelms.umd.edu/courses/969642/files/27532357?module_item_id=6128404 explains the basic principles of pressure.
Hi is there a specific reason for using two pails other than having more water available if so can you explain? Also can you emphasize on the fittings you used on the pails I am setting up a 275 gallon holding tank for water and I will not have access to the inside of the tank to apply a nut to a fitting... I know there are fittings for my scenario I just do not know what they are called... Thank you for your time, Peter
Hi Peter.
The two buckets in the thumbnail are for two separate beds: 1 bucket per one 3'x100' bed.
In the video before I set up one system for the season, I moved it to the end of the bed to see how effectively it would work going "uphill". It didn't stay there, I just did that for comparison.
Fittings I used were bulkhead fittings from an irrigation store, and I'm not sure what fittings you could do in your situation. Sorry I can't help more!
Nice is this in use and have there been any issues, im looking of setting up a very similar drip feeding system going throughout my whole garden
Yes it is in use. I'm editing a video going over the setup in a little more depth (including common questions).
Some issues:
1. Must use clean water, particulates can clog line and drip tape, so make sure your water source and buckets are clean.
2. If you don't put the cover back on after irrigating, mosquito will breed inside of bucket.
3. Light coloured buckets may allow algae to grow.
4. Angle of header hose (black polypipe) is critical for correct irrigation; you might have a downhill slope in your garden, but if the water has to go "uphill" through the header hose it will affect your rate (this is a very low PSI system).
Most of the issues are just about proper management. This obviously inst as convenient as an in-ground pressurized irrigation system, but it does have some advantages:
1. Mobility (If I can carry a couple of buckets of water and work with the lay of the land, I can irrigate anywhere).
2. Low footprint (No hoses or lines running from a water source to the garden, i.e. no hoses to trip over, cut with a lawnmower, and less draining to do in winter months)
3. Storage (I can put a filter, drip tape, hose clamps in the bucket to store, only thing that won't fit in is the long header hose. I can then store the buckets or use as needed; I used them as the legs for my grow table this year, very handy)
Splitseed Garden thanks for taking the time to give me an informative response! Appreciated
Sir what is diameter of pipe and what is litre per hour ?????
Big Mac got that chimp drip
Hi Splitseed Garden: I am a brand new beginner and am trying to learn.You have two five gal. Buckets, one for priming. The other for the drip tape. You have three rows. how many buckets is needed to water all of them? What size drip tape do You use? What would happen if I used a much larger water tank like 500 gal. Please bear with me. Thank You for the great video
Hi, and thanks for watching! I'll try to explain things better.
1) That table holds two orange buckets (call them reservoirs); each reservoir is responsible for one 100 foot row of plants.
2) The drip tape I use is 5/8" (16mm) 15 Mil 8" Spacing Hi-Flow .34GPM/100'
3) It takes 10 gallons of water to irrigate each row for my purposes. I first dump 5 gallons into a reservoir. That 5 gallons drains quickly, as it is filling an empty 100 foot run of drip tape. Once the reservoir is almost empty (which means the drip tape must be full of water), I add the next 5 gallons of water. This 5 gallons drains slower, as the drip tape has already been "primed" (full of water). This gets me the consistent irrigation levels that I am looking for in my conditions.
If you put a 500 gallon tank at the same height as my reservoirs in a garden (that also has a similar slope to mine), this system would work. If you put the 500 gallon tank at a higher height, the system would also still work. If you are trying to pump uphill, or fill multiple runs from one reservoir you'll likely have to raise the height of your reservoir to increase the static pressure. My static pressure is around 2 psi.
Here are some resources that you may find useful. I found the Rain Bird Design Manual to be particularly helpful.
How Elevation affects Pressure
www.irrigationtutorials.com/elevation-pressure-loss-in-irrigation-systems/
Rain Bird Technical Newsletter describing Design Considerations of Irrigation System
www.rainbird.ca/documents/turf/ASC_Winter01.pdf
Rain Bird Design Manual (has sample problems and solutions for static and dynamic pressures)
www.rainbird.ca/documents/turf/IrrigationDesignManual.pdf
Irrigation Direct Gravity Irrigation for Vegetable Garden Tutorial
www.irrigationdirect.ca/docs/Gravity%20Feed%20Irrigation%20Systemss%20For%20Vegetable%20Gardens%20and%20Organic%20Crops.pdf
What are the computations to be considered?
Thanks for watching! Main thing is water pressure. If you don't have enough water pressure your drip tape won't work properly. This pressure is generally easy to achieve off of a pressurized system (i.e. a cities water main or your house's water supply). If you are using a gravity system like this you'll need to learn some basics about static water pressure and how to increase it. Check the links I provide in previous comments, that is what I used to figure out and trial the system. Hope it helps!
How long does it take to empty the buckets?
Thanks
Between 15-25 minutes for two buckets of water. I pour one bucket of water in, which drains fairly quickly because it primes the line. When the orange reservoir is less than half full I pour the other bucket of water in to maintain consistent irrigation.
Did you put the holes in the line? How?
How big hole in hose
Great..I was thinking about same which you have already done 😇. Nice application of technology ✌
Good job. Thank u for this video.
Is it need a manual pressure kit ?
Thanks for watching! I'm not sure what you mean by "manual pressure kit", you can purchase a gravity irrigation kit like this: www.irrigationdirect.ca/DK-GFCW-M-Gravity-Feed-Drip-Irrigation-Kit-for-Clean-Water-MED.html . I purchased all the parts of my system separately to fit my needs and just to experiment. If you are looking for more information about designing gravity irrigation systems I would look at these tutorials www.irrigationdirect.ca/Gravity-Feed-Irrigation-Systems.html
on daily basis, how many 5gallon bucket do you need to water the whole field?
None. One bucket waters a 3' by 100' row. I add water whenever I feel the soil needs it.
Nice work. safe water+ time and money too good job ✌
Thanks!
Farid Mak ·
Good job Splitseed. Way to research and implement.
hi i want to know how many minute to irrigate small tomato plant.
I don't know. I usually just go by how the soil feels. I look for moist soil that can hold its shape but is still friable. It depends a lot on your soil type, its infiltration rate, your climate, and the type of plant you are growing.
If its in a pot, use a watering can. If it takes 1-3 seconds for the water to percolate through the soil (the soil loses its "shininess"), that's probably enough water.
I'd like to order from IDC. Could you send me a parts list you have used for your setup.
what is the drip rate per hour? than you
No idea, I just water until I'm satisfied with soil conditions.
I like it so much and and thanks for that information
Hi Splitseed Garden.
Is not the pressure higher at the end of the slope, so at the end of the pipeline, and consequently more water coming out at the end than at the beginning, with the same hole size for the drip? That wouldn't water all the plants evenly. Thank you
You're half right, but drip rate is slower at end vs. head of the bed, as the drip tape isn't as "pressurized" towards the end of the bed. I've not noticed any ill effects of the slower drip rate at the end of the bed, my plants seemed to get sufficient water. You can think of this as a supplementary and not primary irrigation source.
Great video....thanks !!
Interesting I will implement right away
Hope it works well for you!
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching! Hope it was helpful
I have a Farm pond of 5 Lakh lts. capacity at 10 feet high level ; can i run my drip system on gravity method... to irrigate my farm efficiently... ?
Real drip irrigation
Hai
A great deal in water saving technology vc with simplicity. Nice.
Thanks for information
hello there,
great video i have some land and we use tradition flood irrigsation on it but i am thinking of installing drip irrigation system on the whole filed but before making this huge investment i want to run test small scale lets say 100ft just to understand this system and see if its really as effective as claimed.so can you tell me few things
1:where can i find basic calculations ie how much height to place reservoir , pressure from reservior to end of system etc.
2: how do i add fertilizer using your system as in what quantities and do i mix it in bucket.
3:spacing how do i calculate spacing i mean basic design information.
the thing is Pakistan hasnt done big research on this system so its realy hard to find any information or expert here.
So any help will be appriciated!
Thankyou
Thanks for the comment! I'll answer your specific questions as best as I can.
+Splitseed Garden thankyou :)
1. After I've primed my line and filled the bucket again to the brim, I believe I have just over 2 psi. As the height of water in the bucket drops, so does my pressure. This page from Irrigation Direct Canada has a number of tutorials on irrigation systems www.irrigationdirect.ca/Drip-Irrigation-Tutorials.html, and myelms.umd.edu/courses/969642/files/27532357?module_item_id=6128404 explains the basic principles of pressure.
I based my design off of their gravity system, but instead of using soaker hose I used drip tape instead.
+Splitseed Garden great ill check both the websites you provided and get back to you...are you planning on installing it on a medium or large farm?
2. Water availability is the reason why I installed the system in my area, but I can see how it would be useful for liquid fertilizer applications. I would go with whatever the instructions were that came with your product; one organic fertilizer I looked at called for 5mL of fertilizer per 1L of water.
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SURPRESSES WEED GROWTH!?! But I'm trying to grow weed. D=
oops! sites
Thanks for sharing 😀