How To - Hydro Mod The Oil-Filled Watches #2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ส.ค. 2024
- Hello, welcome back to Darak Watches, I'm Darak, this is a Hydro mod follow-up video, to answer your top ten questions, also, introducing the 3M Fluorinert, and more, enjoy.
If you like the Hydro mod topic and want to know more about it, please watch all of my videos in the Hydro mod playlist.
• Hydro Mod
The 3M Fluorinert is a product only handle with professional care, DO NOT DUMP FLUORINERT IN YOUR SINK!
Toxicity - Fluorinert may be harmful if inhaled, and care should be taken to avoid contact with eyes and skin. No health effects are expected by the ingestion of Fluorinert, however. Use should be constrained to closed systems and reduced volumes, as fluorinated oils have a very high global-warming potential and a long atmospheric lifetime.
en.wikipedia.o...
You can find most of the parts here,
MicroLubrol 200 Fluid Pure Silicone Oil - 50 CST
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Foam Beads for Slime - 90,000-Piece Slime Beads, 0.08-0.1 Inch Micro Foam Balls
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BSTEAN 30 Pack - Syringes and Blunt Tip Needles
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Casio MDV106-1AV 200M Dive Watch
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Casio MRW-200H 100M Resin Dive Watch
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Casio B650WD-1ACF Classic Quartz Watch
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As an Engineer i can tell you that bubbles compromise the whole function(its not a problem of style and looks the added waterresistants only works with NO bubbles. The idea of using a Stiroform Ball is also completly destroying any added depth to the depth rating.
if you want this oil filled system to work you need the watch to bee 100% oil Filed and for that to work you need a system like Sinns case back or the Caseback of the Bell and Ross Hydromax
if you just want the better legibility you can go without those measurement but have in mind that there is no upgrade in waterresistance(if you have bubbles or styrofoam in your watch)
Mr. Engineer, just please document yourself more ...
Mr. Engineer :)
The earlier Sinn models didn't have a special case back. I don't think it's fair to say that it doesn't improve pressure resistance unless there is 0.0 bubbles. Cases will deform under extreme pressure, and as long as the deformation is small enough to not lead to total failure, then you won. Here the deformation will be limited to tiny tiny amounts
Someone explain to me why they need the special caseback? Isn't the oil incompressible? So with no bubbles there shouldn't be any need to have a caseback that can move in-out? If they're doing it to take thermal expansion into account then the thin sheet metal casebacks of these watches should have enough flex to account for that, I think.
@@ckush928I know I'm stating the obvious but most watches aren't designed to keep high pressure in, they're designed to keep the high pressure out. If your watch has an LCD screen or some other part that is sensitive to pressure then I suppose there is a potential that you could crush the part if the silicon oil heats up and expands. As these watches haven't been engineered to support high internal pressures we would be relying on flex in the case back to control the internal pressure. That said, it is a cool mod as long as you're prepared for the watch to fail at some point.
@harrie205 I’m not an engineer, that was my thinking as well. 🎉
Just bought the casio in the video, theres no way Id try this, is cool thou, no doubt, 5000m you say? Mad skillz.
I filled a Seiko Solar chrono based on your video and am super happy with the results. I used 3m Fluorinert FC-770 and it worked great. One thing that improves the effect is to use a domed crystal.
Hopefully, it being solar I can go longer without replacing the power cell.
Thank you for your video!
Fluorinert Fc-770 has some pretty good properties for this:
Low pour point -127C
lower thermal expansion coefficient than water
low kinematic viscosity 0.79centistokes
boiling point 95C
Does your hydro mod still work a year later?
@@jimcao1860 yes, the solar seiko with fluorinert does
How about your lume ?
@@joliverlie151 no change
It's fc770 also supposedly non compressible?
I’m pretty sure if you just heated the oil to around 50c while you did this mod, then let it cool after it was sealed - this would be more than enough to handle any amount of thermal expansion you could reasonably expect to encounter.
I’d love to see you test this theory in a future video!
Fluorinert has a lower refractive index (1.278) vs PDMS silicon oil (1.43). Water is 1.333 for reference. This decreases the strength of the visual effect. I don't think it's worth the large bump in cost and difficulty to source until more substantive evidence for silicon oil being damaging to the watches is proven.
Any updates on the damage produced by the silicon oil on the rubber spacers or gaskets? Fluorinert is pretty hard to source.
@@joset.santos4120 Silicon rubber spacers and gaskets absorb the liquid silicone and swell up. This makes it difficult to seat them again while putting it back together for a battery change, which makes the already precarious underwater battery change even more hard, but it actually makes them seal better. It also makes them harder to take apart, on any watch that's been together for more than six months or so I have to pry the casebacks off fairly violently to get them to pop open.
I have had a silicone oil filled MW-240 since 2019 that is still running fine and has not ever leaked except when I assembled it wrong and pinched or missed the O-ring.
The biggest problem with silicon oil is that it's so thick that if you use it on any analog watch the battery life is reduced to about 1/3 due to the greater friction on the motor. Flourinert is much more thin.
I have also heard of people using mineral oil. I have not done so myself but it has worked out for them
@@axipixel5811 using a solar movement would resolve the battery life issue right? Any suggestions for cheap solar movements? As far as I'm aware, Casio doesn't really have any cheap analogs with solar other than the AQ-S810W. I've seen it in person and it's aesthetically controversial to say the least. Also not sure how well the buttons would work with a hydro mod since it is a digi-ana.
I just did it with the same watch and forgot to put in the white plastic spacer ring AND it worked better without any air bubbles and was very easy to put back together. Like the look of the watch.
I'm keen on the DIY kits
Would you consider dying the oil a fun color prior to your next mod video? Thanks!
Can you put glitter in it, snow globe watch :)
Nice follow up
Hi Rendolf, thanks.
I cant wait for my green one. Photos look amazing.
If only Fluorinert wasn't so toxic... Where I live, we can buy non-toxic 5 cSt silicone (PMS) fluid very cheaply, so I guess I'll go with that for analogue watches and with 20 cSt for digital ones.
Cool video. I have two of these that I bought just for this mod.
Great video!
Hi Frank, thanks.
😛 ¡Saludos!. ¡Excelente video!.
Love the Hydro Video. Can you do a dome glass watch ?
Have you tested it on the effects of the silicone oil in the backlight?
does it improve the coverage and glow or still the same as the original lighting?
Hello from Russia! I loved the styrofoam ball idea! Indeed, it is convenient for expanding and contracting oil! Man, tell me - are these some special styrofoam balls, or will ordinary balls from the box Sony Playstation 4 package do?
Would be interested in seeing another update video on these watches... Seems like this channel might be dead though.
are you still making syringe and fluorinert kits? i would like to get one.
have you thought about doing one with a g shock
Are the watches still working now after 3 years?
Hi - just checking, are both oil filled watches still working ? Thanks 🙏🏼
On your video you mention pulling a vacuum and forcing the bubble out. That is where the video cut out. Can you make a short video showing the process of forcing out the bubble with this method? I am stuck with a fairly large bubble:(
This mod on a quartz chronograph 😮😮
I’m interested in this the diy kit as well
I love buy it
I'd be very interested to see what effect, if any, fluid filling a white dial watch would have on appearance.
i know I am pretty randomly asking but do anyone know a good site to stream newly released series online ?
@@elisage5132 lol like we can't tell that you're the same person replying to their own comment. Both accounts created at the same time. Nice try. Both reported as spam.
👍
Hi *комментарий*, 👍
Are there any updates after a year? :)
Oh man. I’ve got a few eco drives and the temptation is high.
What is feedback after 4 month? Are those watches still running?
More detail on the stem removal plz
thertes a tiny button. push it
so how did the watches make it through ? did this affect lume capabilities and the piezo beeper ? how was the battery life ? thinking of hydro modding my ga2100
Maybe you all should consider an alternative to Fluorinert after reading here:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluorinert
Yep, I don't see a point of buying such toxic stuff if you can get hold of PMS-5 (yes, 5 cSt, not 50) or even PMS-20.
You haven't posted in a long time man. Hope you are ok.
can hydro android smart watches?
I have enjoyed your video. I did this mod on my Casio Duro. I really like the looks of the dial. It now loses time, like 10 secs per hour, and sometimes stops. Any ideas?
How is it with the Florinert? Since I checked that the boiling point for this liquid is 80C... Which can be reach if the watch is under the sun in the tropics...
after oil fill, what happen if change battery?
Thank you for this second vídeo. I see you switched to fluorinert. As I told you on my comment on the first video, we're planning to hydrolyze analog watches with 50cst silicone oil, but watching that fluorinert is less dense than 50 cst oil, don't you think that 30cst oil (if it can be found) could be used?
And the second question. How would you set in position the styrofoam bubbles if you fill the case in the traditional way (not the way you do here, due to the lesser density of fluorinert). The styrofoam bubble would float, out of position, before closing the back -case (especially in a screw-down back.)
Thank you
I saw your vídeos on the LIV channel, but I'm now missing the comments. Couldn't you recover them?
Hi Boga92, the 3M Fluorivert cSt is around 0.2 to 3, there are different model out there, the one I use is the CF-30, 2.2 cSt, so it's very runny as you can imagine, due to this chemical property, the Fluorinert can flow freely in tiny spaces, so bubbles won't easily get trapped in the movement, that's why I switch to the crown fill method.
As you had mentioned, it's near impossible to keep Styrofoam in place, so that's why I'm using crown fill.
Sorry, the old channel is considered lost at this moment, so I can't recover the dates.
Did you get the Fluorinert from ebay? I can't seem to get smaller amount especially in Hungary.
Surely if you reassembled the watch while fully immersed there would be no need for little balls in the case... Or am I missing something?
The point of the balls are to provide a pressure buffer, since the caseback doesn't expand like the Sinn watch does. When the oil undergoes higher temperatures, it would expand (since liquids are not compressible) and that could cause a leak somewhere or pop the caseback off in an extreme scenario. As he explained, he could leave an air bubble inside since air is compressible and it would solve the issue of the expansion of the oil. Styrofoam however is essentially lots of air bubbles contained in plastic, so it would serve the same purpose but without leaving a visible air bubble instead.
Can we use glycerine instead??
What happen to your B650WD-1A?
update?
Is it still work today?
What would your advice be on oil filling a Citizen eco-drive solar radio clock watch?
Preparation is essential, make sure you have a tray that can completely submerge the watch during the filling process to prevent any bubble from getting trapped under the dial. I consider a syringe essential. If your tray is big enough and clearances small enough to draw vacuum using the syringe while submerged, that might help. I did not have to do this.
Order more oil than you think you will need. 125mL should be enough for 1-2 watches (a lot of the oil is used on the outside to submerge the watch. The amount of oil actually used is quite small). If you use 3m Fluorinert, definitely recommend filtering as shown by Darak.
You know STW Hypertec Hyperbar Watches ?
What size styrofoam balls did you use as the pressure buffer? Any link to buy some?
Hi James, sorry for that, just added to the video description, but here you go😁
Foam Beads for Slime - 90,000-Piece Slime Beads, 0.08-0.1 Inch Micro Foam Balls
amzn.to/2PqCCwb
@@darakwatches467 Thanks for the info, last piece of the puzzle I needed.
hello sir, sorry if this question out of this topic. is there any chances on swapping casio efv 110d movement to nh35/36? will the nh3* fit nicely?
Maybe a late answer (I think it’s in the video as well).
This does NOT work on an automatic/mechanicl watch as the balance spring cannot move through liquid. You’ll ruin your NH35/36.
@@MaartenAnna better late than never. 😅 thank you anyway for the answer. 👌👍
Does it need to be FC-40? I can only find FC-84
I looked at the chart and it seems like fc-84 is alot more liquidy (less viscous), easier to evaporate, and has higher expansion (volume will change more during the temperature change). Besides that, it looks about the same. I guess it will have easier time leaking or evaporating out of the watch. I want to get fc-40 if I can but fc-84 should do it as well
I have a digital chronograph. Yes I know sounds like an oxy-moron but I assure you it is a real thing lol. Would Filling with Mineral Oil ruin such a thing?
What is the point of doing this?