The Oval hole that has extra metal behind it is a factory tie down point for vehicle delivery. A "T " or "JT" hook was used. Also these cars are often jacked up at this location.
I have the same repair that needs to be made. Thanks for the video, btw that new piece that you made looks great, looking forward to seeing the vid on it.
Would not have thought that the one cut at 4:08 would be enough to allow for deflection there, makes the term unibody much more relevant. Great work and great days to you, look forward to more.
Thanks and yeah I was surprised as well. The frame rails are pretty thin though. I read the later second gens are much stronger/thicker, but not sure what gauge.
Man that’s perfect timing. I’m doing the exact same thing but my frame rails are shot!!! Im doing a complete floor pan replacement with torque boxes. Wish me luck.
That's a big job, good luck! I removed the passenger torque box this past weekend and I have to say it was one of the more difficult parts I've removed, mostly because the spot welds were hard to get to. Hopefully it's easier for you being that the whole floor pan is coming out.
Question! Could you complete the read subframe replacement without putting the car on a rotisserie? I ask bc my nova rear subframe is questionable. But I don’t want to separate front subframe from the car body
Perfect timing on this comment. My new torque boxes don't want to fit snug towards the front. Glad to know they'll need a little help! I did notice the seat belt nut already. I had to cut the round one off so I'll be using the original when I put it back on.
That's usually the way it goes. I've been in that scenario a couple times where I thought I would be able to salvage a section and I end up just butchering it just trying to get it off. Perfect example is the cowl section on my C10. Oh well what can you do, it creates a little bit more work but you'll get it knocked out.
Thanks for sharing. It's good to know others run into it. It's going the same way with the torque box removal video that I haven't posted yet. "Hey guys I'm going to remove this in one piece" 15 pieces later, holes where they shouldn't be... 😂
![Frame Rail Repair Section - 1971 Camaro Torque Box Repair [PART 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/txsuZfElilI/mqdefault.jpg)
![Frame Rail Repair Section - 1971 Camaro Torque Box Repair [PART 2]](/img/tr.png)
![How To Restore A 1971 Camaro Subframe To Better Than New [DIY]!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NiHYoCBdkpI/mqdefault.jpg)
![Torque Box Removal - 1971 Camaro Torque Box Repair [PART 3]](/img/n.gif)
The Oval hole that has extra metal behind it is a factory tie down point for vehicle delivery. A "T " or "JT" hook was used. Also these cars are often jacked up at this location.
That clears things up. I would have never guessed the hole was used as a tie down point. The extra metal for a lift point makes sense. Thanks!
I have the same repair that needs to be made. Thanks for the video, btw that new piece that you made looks great, looking forward to seeing the vid on it.
Thanks Russ! I'm onto the torque boxes now and they are tons of fun. That next video should be out in a couple days. I'm running behind on editing.
Tbh the holes in your floor work to your advantage as you can use them for your plug welds
Great point, I didn't think about that. Thanks for the tip!
Would not have thought that the one cut at 4:08 would be enough to allow for deflection there, makes the term unibody much more relevant. Great work and great days to you, look forward to more.
Thanks and yeah I was surprised as well. The frame rails are pretty thin though. I read the later second gens are much stronger/thicker, but not sure what gauge.
Man that’s perfect timing. I’m doing the exact same thing but my frame rails are shot!!! Im doing a complete floor pan replacement with torque boxes. Wish me luck.
That's a big job, good luck! I removed the passenger torque box this past weekend and I have to say it was one of the more difficult parts I've removed, mostly because the spot welds were hard to get to. Hopefully it's easier for you being that the whole floor pan is coming out.
Yeah that’s what I’m hoping for. I look forward to your clips. Awesome job. 👍🏼
Awesome, what are you working on?
Brother I’m working on a rusty 1971 Camero SS. I need a tetanus shot every time I work on it. Lol.
LOL That's awesome. Stay safe. Share some photos or something sometime or let me know if you are on the forums. I like following a good rusty project.
Nice work, keep up the great videos, they are great and I enjoy then immensely
Thanks! Comments like these motivate me to keep going!
Question! Could you complete the read subframe replacement without putting the car on a rotisserie? I ask bc my nova rear subframe is questionable. But I don’t want to separate front subframe from the car body
I have found that the new torque boxes have a round nut for the seat belt, and have to be beat into submission to fit properly.
Perfect timing on this comment. My new torque boxes don't want to fit snug towards the front. Glad to know they'll need a little help! I did notice the seat belt nut already. I had to cut the round one off so I'll be using the original when I put it back on.
That's usually the way it goes. I've been in that scenario a couple times where I thought I would be able to salvage a section and I end up just butchering it just trying to get it off. Perfect example is the cowl section on my C10. Oh well what can you do, it creates a little bit more work but you'll get it knocked out.
Thanks for sharing. It's good to know others run into it. It's going the same way with the torque box removal video that I haven't posted yet. "Hey guys I'm going to remove this in one piece" 15 pieces later, holes where they shouldn't be... 😂
Hows the car now