VW A3: 1.9L AAZ TD Rough Running / Smoking
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.พ. 2025
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Epic video, it helped me a lot! Currently I'm fixing the same problem on my passat b4
Here in Belgium we have a guy that has developed a method to fix the worn crank, he puts some kind of manual grinding tool on it to flatten the surface of the crank, because an uneven mating surface with the sprocket causes the sprocket to knock the bolt loose. When it's 100% flush he grinds a bit off the crank to modify it to the new TDI crank design. This design also develops the same problem after a long while but the difference is that the keyway can't break and your valves will never be ruined.
Just a tip though, I've found that doing the timing and the belts is much easier with the air filter box removed, it's just one rubber band on the side so its peanuts to remove :)
Great input, thanks for sharing!
you share some cool stuff watched several of your videos.
Thank you and thank you for watching!
don't know why, but I always think of lenny kravitz when I see your thumbnail hahah i love it
LOL.. it's the shades! I just did a google image search for lenny kravitz... yeah, I can see the similarity. =)
Hi Thomas, first time discovering your channel, it's definitely interesting to get a perspective from a professional mechanic in action! I would have been interested in what led to your diagnosis- it appears from the video you immediately jumped right to the crank position. Was there scantool data to indicate this? was it based on experience of seeing similar issues before? Also while I assume you cant give narrative because you are working, you might consider adding narration after the fact, it might be better than the pop up notes and you could detail your though process better. Just a thought. But fun to watch nonetheless.
Thanks for checking out my channel and for your input! As you can see, I cater to those who need to see step-by-step instructions... but yet they still can't follow along! :-) The broken key of the crank sprocket is a common item with age and all the symptoms pointed towards it... can by verified by the position of the flywheel TDC mark and the position of the front pulley bolts (as mentioned in the video). If I were to add diagnosis in all my videos, the videos would be too long... people already don't watch the complete video (as indicated by youtube analytics).
I've tried narration in the past, didn't like it... I talk into the camera sometimes (when I'm working by myself).
I'm no ScannerDanner or Schrodingers Box, so I just record the removal / repair. One day when I can quit my day job, I might consider more in depth videos. Not making enough off of youtube at this point (doubt I ever will).
***** LOL, yeah that's a major reason I avoid the bolt by bolts now- you get too many 14 year old wannabees who never turned a wrench asking stupid stuff. Nonetheless you are clearly very skilled and I hope your channel takes off bro!
Thank you very much! You too! I'll be watching!
Bună vă rog să mă ajutați cu un sfat am un golf 3 td 1.9 am efectuat o lucrare la portierA stingă față mi_sa blocat geamul pe deschis am vrut să ridic macaraua cu un liber și din greșeală am făcut un scurt la instalația din portieră și de atunci nu mai primește curent la rampă la bujii și nu pornește nici pompa de alimentare care este în portbagaj nu este in rezervor dacă puteți să-mi spuneți ce aș putea să-i fac.
Classic 1.9td, I'm currently refreshing one for my mk1 truck, this is exactly why I drilled and pinned my crank gear :p
+Mike Rowledge The main reason that the bolt comes loose (over time) is that it was not tightened correctly and that the alternator does not have a one-way clutch pulley. Adding a clutch pulley can reduce the risk of the bolt coming loose. If the timing belt is changed on a regular basis... and the crank bolt is replaced each time, then the bolt coming loose is a non issue.
do mk3 ahu tdis have clutched alternator? should I put one on?
Mike Rowledge Some have them... easy to check, and yes, I would put one on.
Another great video, your one fast and efficient tech, I hope they're paying you over 6 figures.
Thanks, but one of the guys I work with is better!
I Thomas you just brought me memories or nightmares of bent valves and busted lifters what I would do Is I bought a special tool that would screw in the end of the crank as a guide and the other part driven buy a drill with a piece of paper glued on it so it would re finish the end of the crank as flat as possible and then would weld the back side of the key way and then put a new gear and bolt with blue lock tite but wait there more I would install a TDI alternator pulley with clutch I'm more than sure if these cars were built from new with theses pulleys it would help prevent all theses problems from day one sure the new crank and gear design is a big step in the right direction notice this when you get a AAZ in the shop look at the belt tensioner how it bounce this is bad it hammers the heavy crank damper and notice how lite the newer TDI crank dampers are compared to the AAZ engines they were great engines if it wasn't for gear issue and leaking throttle shaft o ring and input drive seal that wear and crack and let air in the fuel pump.
We always recommend an alt clutch pulley conversion if it doesn't already have one. Most of the A3's here are still in good shape, but people don't want to put money into them anymore.
Ok Thomas what did the customer have you do ? Cant leave us hanging like that LOL
I have been around master techs for years wow this guy is on a upper level
I had an 1994 passat with a problem crank bolt. I went to my local VW dealer and asked for an new bolt.
Thank you for sharing.
Hi thomas, I have a skoda fabia 1.4mpi ohv engine. I am having lack of power in low r.p.m and I have seen that the dipstick smells like a gas. I did compression test and everything seemed ok (12 bar each Cylnder) could be a faulty fuel pressure regulator? Dirty inyectors? The car starts easy at the mornings. I am very stuck. What would be yours steps? Thank you
Hey Thomas, I'm like Steve. What did the customer finally decide to do as I'm sure he wasn't happy? Good video as always.
Before Thomas tells us the resolve I thought I would throw my fix by you. I would install the gear and position the slot on to the good side and epoxy it on after I have drilled 2- 1/4 inch holes in the gear face 180 deg. opposed to each other and transfer punch the crank face and drill 2 more holes and install 2 hardened dowels that sit flush - put the crank bolt on and hope this sounds like a good idea. Ha !!
Steve Rob Mmmm, I understand Steve about drilling two holes in the crank face, which I assume you're talking about the sprocket, but what will the dowels go into from there? It appears to be a sprocket with a keyway which has a key that goes into the keyway of the crankshaft with a bolt that locks it down. Maybe, I'm missing something here. Help me out here Steve.
the 2 dowels in the crank face would protrude into the face of the crank sprocket and hold the sprocket in the proper position where that keyway can no longer be used to keep the crank to cam coloration in time. It looks like the sprocket is thick enough to hold . Makes sense ?
Yep, got it Steve. I didn't think, I'm good at that sometimes LOL, about the crankshaft having a flat face on it. DUHHH on me. Hey, that sounds like that will work. Let's get the drill motor and some drill bits out for Thomas and get drilling on that thing. LOL..
One more thing Steve. If that crank face and crank sprocket is hardened steel, I'll let you do the drilling. Of course now, I'll get the drill, drop cord and other stuff out for you. LOL.
I think I have the same problem, can I just weld or pin sprocket to cranckshaft?.. im planing to instal TDI and my engine is quite bad so.. why not?
Some people have drilled a hole into the crank gear and into the crankshaft... then installed a pin which connects the two. The pin add reinforcement, but it is not a long term fix. Replacing the crankshaft that has the newer locking design with the newer crank gear is the best way to go. In your case... if it is going to be a temporary repair (until you get your new engine), you can try whatever you can to make it work / last. A newer video about this issue:
th-cam.com/video/o_bhRnnzMWQ/w-d-xo.html
@@EXOVCDS thanks..My problem is the whte smoke when I start the car, and it starts very difficult
the engine shakes and makes strange sounds and if I let go of the gas pedal it just dies..when it gets warm afther few mins it works pretty normal,butt still smokes a little bit,I thought it was some water in the tank but it isnt.. I think this is the problem or maybe the injectors? I will check the engine timing tomorow..
Most likely the gear is loose / has moved on the crankshaft... which alters injection timing... which causes starting, power & smoking issues. If you are lucky, just the gear needs to be replaced (a new crank bolt also) and the cam / crank / pump timing readjusted. .
@@EXOVCDS ok, thanks.. you helped me a lot.
@@EXOVCDS yeah, that was the problem.. but my keyway is almost gone, last time I started the car it made horrible knocking sound and I quickly turned it off.. could it have bent the valves?
Thomas what marks on the main crank will I be looking for I can't see anything!! Only bolts !
The pulley should have a notch in it which should be at around the 12 o'clock position. The mark at the flywheel / tranamission is more accurate. Your service manual should have the info / images. If you don't have a manual... they are worth getting. Bentley Publishers dot com
+Thomas EXOVCDS I send you a private message on instagram.
+Thomas EXOVCDS I just sent the video
I have a 90 HP engine and 200.000 miles and i ve never change the crankshaft sprocket , car runs like new , start Up is fast and never smokes , do You recommend me to change the sprocket next timing belt job or not , are all old tdis affected by this crankshaft design?
Eventually the crank seal will leak... at which point you will have to remove the sprocket regardless... at this point, will the seal last another timing belt? I would replace the crank seal and inspect the sprocket at the same time. If still good, reinstall with a new crank bolt.
oh man I have a question for you!! again. 1996 VW Jetta AAZ Diesel. running fine until oil pressure light comes on. pulled over. the "yoke clamp" bolt broke off and the vacuum pump came up - causing oil pressure light to go on. in order to remove the broken bolt out of block I had to remove the turbo oil supply line from the block and move it over to gain access. removed broken bolt, re-installed vacuum pump and re-attached the turbo oil supply line. all is well now, no more low oil pressure light. problem I have now is that I have very little power to the motor when driving, and when I step on it (not flooring it), black smoke comes out the exhaust. wtf did I do? I only removed the oil supply line to the turbo, did nothing else. I so appreciate any insight !!
I think there are some vacuum lines that are attached to the vacuum pump (by the big hose to the booster)... that deal with the wastegate. Make sure that those vacuum lines are attached. The wastegate should be closed though and is opened using vacuum... so even if vacuum hoses are not attached, the turbo "should" be able to build boost. Remove the intake hose at the turbo and check that the shaft spins freely (in case it had too much oil starvation).
is this also a common problem on the 1.9 ahu tdi’s found in the mk3?
Brandon Ruhl yes.
Thomas EXOVCDS Damn. is there a way of knowing that’s the problem? Way of preventing this for higher mileage tdi’s? just curious so i can prevent it lol
Set crankshaft to TDC... flywheel mark aligned with TDC pointer. Go to crankshaft pulley end and look at the 4 pulley mounting bolts. 2 bolts should be at 12 & 6 o'clock. If they are off 11 & 5 or 1 & 7, then the crank sprocket has shifted. To prevent tit from happening, check the sprocket at every timing belt service and replace the crank bolt each time.
thomas! 1991 VW jetta 1.6L diesel, black smoke/grey smoke on acceleration. car stutters when it gets to around 2-3k rpm. what in the world is up with these diesels?! do I check injectors first? check pump timing? IP messed up? bad turbo? all of these are pricey and I hate to throw money at it no knowing. where would you start ?
If it has the manual choke / timing advance... pull that and see if it makes a difference. If yes, check cam / crank & pump timing. The crank sprocket can come loose (broken key on the sprocket) which causes timing to shift. If cam / crank & pump alignment (pump timing via dial gauge) are correct, then I would think something internal in the pump.
you wouldn't suspect turbo at all? I did have a 96 jetta TD that the turbo went out and had somewhat the same issue with black smoke, except my 96 jetta had a LOT more black smoke.
bunkerbuster Grey smoke is raw fuel / unburnt. Black is also unburnt fuel... the only way to know is to eliminate one thing after the other. Check boost to see it is ok... but keep in mind that you can't build proper boost if timing / injection isn't right.
thanks man... I have received my pop tester for the injectors, as well as my IP timing gauge. I need to learn how to use that IP timing tool.
Hey Thomas! my turbo is leaking out oil and needs a rebuild. I have a 1996 VW Jetta Diesel 1.9L (AAZ). Can you help direct me to the proper rebuild kit for it? I don't know what kind of turbo it has, and can't find any info on the net that makes sense and gives me a definite answer. how do I find out what kind of turbo (model) it is? is there one stock turbo that was used from 1993 to 1998 ? thanks!!!
Google search turbo rebuilders... best to get info from someone that does it for a living (we don't rebuild them).
+Thomas EXOVCDS ok but when you replace one, how do you know which turbo to get?
+bunkerbuster There should be makings on the turbo... a metal plate with serial number.
+Thomas EXOVCDS thanks!
The 1.9 AAZ should have either a k14 or a k03 turbo iirc.
I need to replace my rear speakers conv 98 cabrio can you help me
I'm away from my pc for a couple of days... When I get home I can look for some information for you. You'll have it on Sunday.
ok ok ok cool ,,, granthaugen98@yahoo.com also
Grant Haugen Check your email, I sent you some pdf's.
thankyou they were great thanks
whats the code on the pump?
or change new engine?
Yes, new or a good used one.
Just flip the crankshaft around so the other side gets used LOL
LOL!
It works for axles. Fuck it hahaha
No it can't.