How interesting that you would post this vid today. I was just sitting around over the holiday watching TH-cam and your series popped into my home page. Turns out, I have my old xs650 sitting in the garage that had a serious lower end knock when I parked it 10 yrs ago. Now I'm seriously leaning toward a rebuild over the winter. This particular step in the rebuild was what I had questions about. I have enjoyed your rebuid vids immensely. Thanks for the motivation!
Thanks El Gordo, the XS engine is really quite simple to strip apart and rebuild, but I would recommend that at every step of the process you take photos as reference points and also note down the order of disassembly especially when you take the clutch apart noting in what order all the washers, bearings etc go, once you start you'll soon get into it and it is enjoyable to do, have a good New Year mate and thanks for watching
Hi John, bloody cold here today but currently sunny so will give the rebuild a go later! Yeah best thing I bought that press, must have saved me a fortune so far splitting the cranks! Hope you and the family have a great New Year matey
@@OldBiker Happy and healthy New Year to you too Cliff. That bitsa looks like keeping you busy through Winter. Once I organize the shed and garage I'm intending doing some work on my 79er It needs a new front chain guide and an additional shim washer placed behind the clutch basket to stop the rear of the basket grinding on the crankcase. When I bought the bike it the engine was in bits in a box and when I'd rebuilt it I had a washer left over...A few weeks later I realised where it should have gone as the previous owner had obviously had the same rubbing problem and solved it by adding an extra washer. They are coincidentally the same size as the valve spring seat washers.. I see our videos come up first in youtube searches ... this one mentions the rubbing but I didn't appreciate the significance at the time th-cam.com/video/_8oxAk7RaYo/w-d-xo.html
@@OldBiker thanks buddy but I already have the washer . It was the only thing left over after my engine build . I didn't know that the previous owner had used it in there to space the basket....I just assumed that it was a spare washer that had found its way into the box of engine bits. Everything was fine for the first 100 miles or so then the basket started rubbing on the crankcase. Stupid thing is I could see that the basket had rubbed the crankcase previously and actually pointed it out on my clutch assembly video. I just didn't allow sufficient tolerance behind the basket
Hi Cliff, i did see the link to reverb and your last film on the yamaha amp cheers for the offer it sounds like its had a great career I've got two amps already but thankyou for the offer and the shout out much appreciated fella.
Thank you for uploading this, was struggling to find information on how to true the crank only services offering to do it for you. Will be sorting mine out once i get a decent bearing splitter (last one burred on second use). Also definitely concur on bolting the press to the floor, have done it with mine, much more stable :)
Chris remember to get a big copper hammer! Also if you split the crank and they have the grooved crank pins, its pretty unlikely it would need any truing if it went back the same way, this one I just done had one grooved pin and I didnt need to adjust that side at all.
your press device does the job, consider bolting the press to the concrete floor and make a couple arm/bar attachment to bolt it to the wall, and get a 4ft piece of metal pipe to slide over the jack handle for easier and better leverage...good video... th-cam.com/video/jRLqeUtly10/w-d-xo.html your oil canister
haha I think about bolting it down every time I use it and yeah I remember that Fairy Liquid advert when it was on the TV! Good point about the pipe too
I know zero about crank mechanics. First rod replacement I’ve seen. Question? Are you bending the crank shaft with the copper hammer to get it within tolerance every time you hit it? And do you have to mic both ends also? Plus, why did the tolerances change, just from pulling it apart took it out? Thanks Dave from wa.state.
Hi Flat, when I'm clubbing the crank with the hammer, it very very slightly twists the end of the crank on the pin to align the center line up again, I only needed to align one end as the pin on one side of the crank was groved so it went back exactly as it came out, on the other end the pin was smooth so it went on a few thou out, fixed with the hammer :)
Great video, im rebuilding my crank now and it's been very helpful
Very impressed with the crank stripping and reassembly , and with homemade tools , hats off to ya 👍
Way I see it Glenn, if someone can make it, I can fix it lol
How interesting that you would post this vid today. I was just sitting around over the holiday watching TH-cam and your series popped into my home page. Turns out, I have my old xs650 sitting in the garage that had a serious lower end knock when I parked it 10 yrs ago. Now I'm seriously leaning toward a rebuild over the winter. This particular step in the rebuild was what I had questions about. I have enjoyed your rebuid vids immensely. Thanks for the motivation!
Thanks El Gordo, the XS engine is really quite simple to strip apart and rebuild, but I would recommend that at every step of the process you take photos as reference points and also note down the order of disassembly especially when you take the clutch apart noting in what order all the washers, bearings etc go, once you start you'll soon get into it and it is enjoyable to do, have a good New Year mate and thanks for watching
@@OldBiker Good advice! Will do, Happy New Year!
EG you might also find this step by step by Lorenzo helpful www.mikesxs.net/blog/step-by-stepyamaha-xs650-engine-overhaul-instructions/
excellent video Cliff great detail. I would now have the confidence to split and rebuild a crank if I should ever need to.
Hi John, bloody cold here today but currently sunny so will give the rebuild a go later! Yeah best thing I bought that press, must have saved me a fortune so far splitting the cranks! Hope you and the family have a great New Year matey
@@OldBiker Happy and healthy New Year to you too Cliff. That bitsa looks like keeping you busy through Winter. Once I organize the shed and garage I'm intending doing some work on my 79er It needs a new front chain guide and an additional shim washer placed behind the clutch basket to stop the rear of the basket grinding on the crankcase.
When I bought the bike it the engine was in bits in a box and when I'd rebuilt it I had a washer left over...A few weeks later I realised where it should have gone as the previous owner had obviously had the same rubbing problem and solved it by adding an extra washer. They are coincidentally the same size as the valve spring seat washers.. I see our videos come up first in youtube searches ... this one mentions the rubbing but I didn't appreciate the significance at the time th-cam.com/video/_8oxAk7RaYo/w-d-xo.html
Next time I'm round the garage I'll have a look and see if I have any of those washers laying around
@@OldBiker thanks buddy but I already have the washer . It was the only thing left over after my engine build . I didn't know that the previous owner had used it in there to space the basket....I just assumed that it was a spare washer that had found its way into the box of engine bits. Everything was fine for the first 100 miles or so then the basket started rubbing on the crankcase.
Stupid thing is I could see that the basket had rubbed the crankcase previously and actually pointed it out on my clutch assembly video. I just didn't allow sufficient tolerance behind the basket
Hi Cliff, i did see the link to reverb and your last film on the yamaha amp cheers for the offer it sounds like its had a great career I've got two amps already but thankyou for the offer and the shout out much appreciated fella.
;) no worries Matt
Thank you for uploading this, was struggling to find information on how to true the crank only services offering to do it for you. Will be sorting mine out once i get a decent bearing splitter (last one burred on second use). Also definitely concur on bolting the press to the floor, have done it with mine, much more stable :)
Chris remember to get a big copper hammer! Also if you split the crank and they have the grooved crank pins, its pretty unlikely it would need any truing if it went back the same way, this one I just done had one grooved pin and I didnt need to adjust that side at all.
@@OldBiker Cheers, funnily enough had actually been looking a couple weeks ago at getting the same make copper hammer you have.
Ummm, you didn't check the big end side float?
your press device does the job, consider bolting the press to the concrete floor and make a couple arm/bar attachment to bolt it to the wall, and get a 4ft piece of metal pipe to slide over the jack handle for easier and better leverage...good video...
th-cam.com/video/jRLqeUtly10/w-d-xo.html your oil canister
haha I think about bolting it down every time I use it and yeah I remember that Fairy Liquid advert when it was on the TV! Good point about the pipe too
I know zero about crank mechanics. First rod replacement I’ve seen.
Question? Are you bending the crank shaft with the copper hammer to get it within tolerance every time you
hit it? And do you have to mic both ends also? Plus, why did the tolerances change, just from pulling it apart took it out?
Thanks Dave from wa.state.
Hi Flat, when I'm clubbing the crank with the hammer, it very very slightly twists the end of the crank on the pin to align the center line up again, I only needed to align one end as the pin on one side of the crank was groved so it went back exactly as it came out, on the other end the pin was smooth so it went on a few thou out, fixed with the hammer :)