Factory original equipment is always the best and longest lasting in my experience. I am still running original steering pump, air pump and alternator.
If you take the TFI module in and they check it, have them run the test multiple times. I had a stumble in mine with a "new" TFI module. When I took it back they tested it (Autozone) and the first time the testing machine said it passed. I had him continue testing 5-6 more times then it began to fail as it heated up.
I had them replace mine under warranty.I could feel it getting weaker and harder to start.I buy enough stuff from them that they didn't test it or question me.
I dont discriminate! Girls always welcome. Guy or Girl, welcome to have you along for the build!! Pretty freakin cool you kept that car for so long since new, never got tired of it or decided to get rid of it. Sure the car is clean and youve kept good care of it!
HOUSE OF DULA Thank you!! lol I know you don’t discriminate. Just wanted you guys to know we girls love these hot AF cars! My dad came across the video he took back in 88 of me on the lot getting the keys, one of me learning to drive it, and one washing it first time. Incredible to see those after so long.
Great video, however this seems not to fix my issue on my 86 I just bought.. it runs perfect until the engine hits about 130 degreee then starts surging badly. Cleaned the iac, theres no vacuum leaks did a smoke test,, cant figure it out for anything..any idea? Thanks
Hey man! Check your O2 sensors, or try unplugging them. Also check your ECT and ACT sensors. After startup, about 3 minutes in time the ECU will go into closed loop. Sounds like its going in closed loop but getting a faulty signal from one of the critical sensors. Unplug one at a time while the engine is running to see if the surge stops. Also I know you cleaned the IAC, but it needs to read between a certain ohms to make sure the motor it working, put an ohm meter on the leads and it should between 7 to 13 ohms. Outside of this it might be bad....Surging idle is usually fixed by setting the base timing granted all other components are good and there are no vacuum leaks. Usually its vacuum related but sounds like you tested that really well.
Right on! Seems as far as the TFI goes, good old OEM motorcraft are the best. Just keep them clean and keep thermal paste on the back of them. Glad it helped! Now go bump that timing up a degree or two ;)
This is almost always the IAC or IAC voltage setting. Go through these steps, www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/5-0l-tech/340926-how-do-base-idle-reset-how-check-set-your-tps.html set the base idle, the IAC voltage. If it STILL surges check for vacuum leaks or replace the IAC but perform a base reset first.
If the timing mark flutters, it's the module. A stator can cause the engine to buck like somebody is turning the ignition on and off. There is a code for the pickup coil PIP sensor. Get the Actron CP9690. It has graphing, live, freeze frame, record, code connect for solutions, oxygen sensor tests, code testing, oil schedule light turn off, MIL light turn off, ABS, and more! It has cables for OBD I Ford, G.M., Chrysler, and 2 Toyota cables. It has a OBDII cable, a cigarette lighter cable, and instructions. It is updatable. It works on most imports and domestic.
HOUSE OF DULA Well,I got it for my 1985 Ford but it don't give live for OBDI. It DID give a tip for a code that my Snap-on scanner didn't! On Ford OBD I it just gives the same as old style. But it'll give live and so forth on OBDII! There was a break-out box which would check voltage and resistance live on cars, but where to get one IDK. OTC had it. Thexton had one. It hooked up to the computer. It's a GREAT tester! It's lit up even in the daytime. Watch videos about it on TH-cam. To install the batteries (4 small AAA), you might have to use a knife or screwdriver to pry the cover. It'll show a CTS temp. with the engine off and cold to check if it's good. That's the live test. It has 2 color graphing to show normal and abnormal readings like for oxygen sensors. Fords don't have codes for the module. It checks ABS. It can help to get a car ready for smog tests.
Robert Walker This is an awesome channel! It’s where I got the idea to buy the budget amazon shifter. I’m sure I speak for both of us when I say thanks for your support!!
Im going 5 years on my TFI, and we have HEAT here, 100+ weather WITH turbo and hot underhood temps. Just keeping it clean and a coat of thermal paste, Ive never had to need to do a remote mount in any of my fords.
Hey Mike I saw another video & he said start the car & let run for 2 min. Then hook up the spout wire, I'm not saying u or the other guy is wrong, because I don't know, that's why I'm watching ur video's..lol he said the computer has to reset, then hook it up. But either way they both seem to work thank u sir good video.
Never heard of letting it run or waiting. Can see what that would do, one thing I would do (and maybe he was talking about this) was let the engine warm up. If its cold and start it and immediately pull the SPOUT, the retarding in timing would likely make the engine stumble or die....but it sounds like he meant let it run 2 min with SPOUT removed, then plug it back in. I have never done this but would love to learn his reasoning behind it.
Yessir motorcraft. Unfortunately the motorcraft one was bad out of the box, but replaced again with motorcraft and its been fine since. I tend to stick with motorcraft for all parts I can, but even its a crapshoot on quality.
What a great video my 92 stumbles under wide open throttle and a small intermittent miss at highway cruising speeds the motor is a reman with less then 5k the tfi was replaced last year maybe I should try the coil thanks man
I had similar issues with some stumbling at high rpm under boost with an older MSD coil. Replaced with a Motorcraft coil and issue went away. Hopefully that will fix yours
noticed your engine does not shake as much as mine does when its idling... any ideas what could be causing this on my 85 302? Heads/cam/ported cobra intake. pulls great out on the street but just seems that it shakes quiet a bit just sitting at idle. the cams a comp XE270HR. Any inputs appreciated! love the car and your channel man!
danetbra63 check your harmonic balancer it could be spun 180 degrees and creating a strong vibration right at the crank. I just swapped mine the old one was completely spun the wrong way.
I have a low rpm stumble, rough idle, and start stall after a hot soak but it's fine at high rpm on my 89 grand marquis 50 . I'm trying to figure out what it is and I'm testing stuff out. I have an msd coil and I'm wondering if there's a way to check its all good without just guessing and replacing it
Im sure I did, maybe missed it on the editing? Or maybe I was cofident I didnt move the dist after locking it in lol Likely didnt check after plugging Spout back in...the ecu will advance as needed anyway
@@HOUSEOFDULA Oh ok cool, not trying to be a smartass or anything man just asking because i just did mine and when I plugged the spout connector back in it moved the timing mark to a different position when I re checked it with my light. Car cranks on first try, good power throughout the RPM range, so I'm assuming its fine but just wanted to know if that was normal or not and I can't find a video on here that talks about the mark moving after the spout is put in.
at 13:05 you can hear a distinct whistle that sounds like a vacuum leak. Do you know what that is? Some say it's the TB/IAC others say it's a vacuum leak.....mind does the same thing and goes a way with RPMs.
@@kowpow2259 Mine is not a BBK. It looks like an SR Performance. It's also probably 75 or 80MM. It's bigger than the opening of the GT40 tubular intake, which is supposed to be 70MM. I got an Accufab 70MM to replace it with but haven't installed it yet. I'm still thinking vacuum leak somewhere.
Just an FYI you wanna flip your timing light clip over then put on spark plug wire. If u look at the top of it you’ll see where it says “plug” with an arrow pointing right. Has to point towards driver side. I didn’t know this either at first. 😳
Another nice video, good call on the Artic Silver its better than the white thermal grease. Noticed that your running an air filter in the engine bay, which is not to bad on a cool day or night. Running an air filter in the engine bay I'm sure you know will draw nothing but hot air especially on a hot day. Also the pulsations from the fan could be causing throttle issue for you. At the very least I would suggest covering the air filter to prevent air form the fan, or if you still have the factory air box with a K&N filter minus the factory resonator and see if that helps at all. If you could get a cooler air charge into the engine, it might allow you to bump the timing another point or two then you will really have a raped ape. Just a thought.
I have a feeling that the problem was the Artic Silver. Dielectric grease is electrically insulating, Artic Silver is a conductive material meant to move heat from one surface to another. Insulating against current from spark is probably what is required. The heat wash from the distributor would always flow OUT to the module which would happen either way, just faster with artic silver, meaning it cooked faster and probably was taking spark that the dielectric grease would have stopped.
Artic silver has replaced the White Thermal grease of yesteryear. It conducts heat better that the old style Thermal Grease and it is also an electrical insulator. I have taken an Ohm meter to the Artic Silver and it reads infinite, so he made the right choice I think he just got a bad module as he stated in the video. I suspect that he also used the Artic Silver on the old module he put back in with no issues.
I thought he might have used it on the original again so wasn't quite sure, but that's good to know. I keep arctic silver on hand for pc builds, but didn't connect using it on the car.
I went with the BBK intake and bought an extra filter.When ones dirty,pop on the backup,clean the dirty one,it becomes the backup.And it makes a difference over having the cone filter in the engine compartment
I just wanted to pass along that it’s been found out that a lot of the new motor craft parts especially the TFi modules may not actually be motorcraft. I know they come in the box but a lot of the new ones don’t have it stamped on the TFI. There was a thread on one of the forums about it’s just a heads up.
True> Ive been doing some research on it and it seems as though the heat it the main culprit. I guess the higher quality Motorcraft one could handle the heat better. I have also read some people have had success with the Chinese ones IF they have the TFI relocation kit. I can only assume its because then they don't get hot like before. Myself I plan on doing a relocation before I even have problems. Could be an Idea for a possible video ;)
No, in fact, I was holding the old one that dropped and ended up being the one working. Odd...I can see dropping them is no good...just seems they used to be made much better.
I always thought you had to turn the car on without the spout plug, and run it at the safe timing. Then plug it in while running so the computer could recognize the new stuff.
They dont have one. They use a hall effect style distributor for ignition (dura spark), based on cam timing. You wont see crank position sensors until you get to distributorless coil-over systems...ie the 1996 4.6L mod motors.
Are still running off the tune that was in the car? If so be careful tune's timing curve is probably based off of 10 degrees initial base timing, by going up to 13 no telling what your at up stairs in the rpm band. Awesome video man I actually get bummed if there is no new content. #notastalker
More to come man. lol #notastalker. The car just responds so well to timing. The difference between 10 to 12 is something I can feel immensely. And from 12 to 13 was huge. It must be liking that 93 octane too, because it makes me want to test 14 degrees. But your right, no clue what the total timing is at WOT on that tune.
Same exact thing happened to me. I put a brand new motor craft tfi and the car died down the block. Put the original 30 year old back in and it’s still running.
Love your channel and the content you put out. I was hoping you can help me out. I have four on my 92 mustang 5 liter they are 12,21,41, and 91 I have switch everything out with new parts. New o2 sensors, temperature sending unit,and I've set the timing but the codes still come up. I would appreciate anybody's help. Thank you and keep up the good work.
Cal Ripken Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks freeze frame, record, oxygen sensor test, ABS, MIL light turn off, oil schedule light turn off, graphing, and more. It includes OBD I cables for Ford, G.M., Chrysler, and 2 Toyota cables. It has a cigarette lighter cable, and OBD II cable, and instructions. It has code- connect for solutions to problems.
Here's a riddle I probably won't get an answer on (I have a 1985 GT with a carburetor so no one knows about those old things hahaha) My Idle is surging up and down at a light or when stationary just like it has a 3/4 cam in it and is starving for fuel.... It's a stock motor with the stock Holly 600 carb. and original "Snorkle" air cleaner assembly. Any Ideas? it doesn't stall but it's annoying.... (Also- Has bolt on shit- Edelbrock RPM Performer manifold, BBK Long Tubes, MSD dizzy and Flame Thrower if any of that may matter)
Surging on a carb is a lower idle circuit metering issue likely. Meaning check for vacuum leaks. Especially around the carb base. I have more expertise with carbs. Id check the carb and make sure its tight / inspect seal. Check ALL vacuum hoses. Lastly check intake. Edelbrock RPM is a great intake. If all vacuum is good, carb might have a buster power valve or stuck float. If you have never rebuilt the carb, rebuilt kits are pretty cheap and good insurance. A busted power valve will suck fuel into the lower intake outside the carb and will run rich.
HOUSE OF DULA, yeah J/K faulty products are common anymore. Like the starter solenoid you have on the inside fender. Surprised that hasn’t caused problem because they are shit anymore as well. I’ve gotten 3 faulty ones in a row before I scrapped it and replaced it with a relay & mini starter.
motor craft parts are now cheep Chinese knock off parts check out TH-cam on this ...only buy from the ford dealers if you want real parts? ebay and other places ill think they are real parts but they are NOT...its a real problem ..
Factory original equipment is always the best and longest lasting in my experience. I am still running original steering pump, air pump and alternator.
Yessir, they honestly do NOT make them like they used to.
If you take the TFI module in and they check it, have them run the test multiple times. I had a stumble in mine with a "new" TFI module. When I took it back they tested it (Autozone) and the first time the testing machine said it passed. I had him continue testing 5-6 more times then it began to fail as it heated up.
I had them replace mine under warranty.I could feel it getting weaker and harder to start.I buy enough stuff from them that they didn't test it or question me.
damn it's a good thing you kept the spare. and wow brand new and it was junk! glad to see that she is running good!
I enjoy your videos! Some of the best tutorials on TH-cam.. Keep hammering!
Appreciate the compliment
The one thing I was told whenever you do work to the motor unplug the battery reset you computer. Keep up the good videos
Foxbody GIRLS too! Haha great video & exactly what I think mine needs! Btw I’m the original owner of my 89GT 30 years this coming October. 164K miles
I dont discriminate! Girls always welcome. Guy or Girl, welcome to have you along for the build!! Pretty freakin cool you kept that car for so long since new, never got tired of it or decided to get rid of it. Sure the car is clean and youve kept good care of it!
HOUSE OF DULA Thank you!! lol I know you don’t discriminate. Just wanted you guys to know we girls love these hot AF cars! My dad came across the video he took back in 88 of me on the lot getting the keys, one of me learning to drive it, and one washing it first time. Incredible to see those after so long.
HOUSE OF DULA I’ll NEVER get tired of “Rita” lol!! Actually in my garage now tinkering around
no matter how much you know, can always learn more, good fail, good tech right here! now Im paranoid about my coil lol
That happens with electronics sometimes. Not much you can do. Just replace it. Great video!
Great video, however this seems not to fix my issue on my 86 I just bought.. it runs perfect until the engine hits about 130 degreee then starts surging badly. Cleaned the iac, theres no vacuum leaks did a smoke test,, cant figure it out for anything..any idea? Thanks
Hey man! Check your O2 sensors, or try unplugging them. Also check your ECT and ACT sensors. After startup, about 3 minutes in time the ECU will go into closed loop. Sounds like its going in closed loop but getting a faulty signal from one of the critical sensors. Unplug one at a time while the engine is running to see if the surge stops. Also I know you cleaned the IAC, but it needs to read between a certain ohms to make sure the motor it working, put an ohm meter on the leads and it should between 7 to 13 ohms. Outside of this it might be bad....Surging idle is usually fixed by setting the base timing granted all other components are good and there are no vacuum leaks. Usually its vacuum related but sounds like you tested that really well.
Dude thank you! I had the same stumble problem and I replace the coil and the harness plug to the coil and she runs like a top now hell yeah !
Right on! Seems as far as the TFI goes, good old OEM motorcraft are the best. Just keep them clean and keep thermal paste on the back of them. Glad it helped! Now go bump that timing up a degree or two ;)
Glad to see another 86. I have an 86 convertible. B-cam..I love it but am trying to figure out my high sticking idle/surge
This is almost always the IAC or IAC voltage setting. Go through these steps, www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/5-0l-tech/340926-how-do-base-idle-reset-how-check-set-your-tps.html set the base idle, the IAC voltage. If it STILL surges check for vacuum leaks or replace the IAC but perform a base reset first.
If the timing mark flutters, it's the module. A stator can cause the engine to buck like somebody is turning the ignition on and off. There is a code for the pickup coil PIP sensor. Get the Actron CP9690. It has graphing, live, freeze frame, record, code connect for solutions, oxygen sensor tests, code testing, oil schedule light turn off, MIL light turn off, ABS, and more! It has cables for OBD I Ford, G.M., Chrysler, and 2 Toyota cables. It has a OBDII cable, a cigarette lighter cable, and instructions. It is updatable. It works on most imports and domestic.
Man that scanner is awesome. I did not think OBD-I and Ford ECU could get live data metrics from the data connector port.
HOUSE OF DULA Well,I got it for my 1985 Ford but it don't give live for OBDI. It DID give a tip for a code that my Snap-on scanner didn't! On Ford OBD I it just gives the same as old style. But it'll give live and so forth on OBDII! There was a break-out box which would check voltage and resistance live on cars, but where to get one IDK. OTC had it. Thexton had one. It hooked up to the computer. It's a GREAT tester! It's lit up even in the daytime. Watch videos about it on TH-cam. To install the batteries (4 small AAA), you might have to use a knife or screwdriver to pry the cover. It'll show a CTS temp. with the engine off and cold to check if it's good. That's the live test. It has 2 color graphing to show normal and abnormal readings like for oxygen sensors. Fords don't have codes for the module. It checks ABS. It can help to get a car ready for smog tests.
eBay has a Ford 60 pin break-out box from Rotunda. Starting at $65.00.
Great video! Love the channel!
BREW2L I was waiting for you to get on this channel, The both of you have helped me out tremendously with my 85
Robert Walker This is an awesome channel! It’s where I got the idea to buy the budget amazon shifter. I’m sure I speak for both of us when I say thanks for your support!!
Keep the content coming boys
Since heat is such a problem for the TFI. Do you recommend doing the relocation kit ? Thanx in advance
Im going 5 years on my TFI, and we have HEAT here, 100+ weather WITH turbo and hot underhood temps. Just keeping it clean and a coat of thermal paste, Ive never had to need to do a remote mount in any of my fords.
@@HOUSEOFDULA good to hear thanx for the quick reply
Did you put fresh heat sink compound on the original one?
Hey Mike I saw another video & he said start the car & let run for 2 min. Then hook up the spout wire, I'm not saying u or the other guy is wrong, because I don't know, that's why I'm watching ur video's..lol he said the computer has to reset, then hook it up. But either way they both seem to work thank u sir good video.
Never heard of letting it run or waiting. Can see what that would do, one thing I would do (and maybe he was talking about this) was let the engine warm up. If its cold and start it and immediately pull the SPOUT, the retarding in timing would likely make the engine stumble or die....but it sounds like he meant let it run 2 min with SPOUT removed, then plug it back in. I have never done this but would love to learn his reasoning behind it.
did you get a replacement Motorcraft TFI or a different brand?
Yessir motorcraft. Unfortunately the motorcraft one was bad out of the box, but replaced again with motorcraft and its been fine since. I tend to stick with motorcraft for all parts I can, but even its a crapshoot on quality.
What a great video my 92 stumbles under wide open throttle and a small intermittent miss at highway cruising speeds the motor is a reman with less then 5k the tfi was replaced last year maybe I should try the coil thanks man
I had similar issues with some stumbling at high rpm under boost with an older MSD coil. Replaced with a Motorcraft coil and issue went away. Hopefully that will fix yours
noticed your engine does not shake as much as mine does when its idling... any ideas what could be causing this on my 85 302? Heads/cam/ported cobra intake. pulls great out on the street but just seems that it shakes quiet a bit just sitting at idle. the cams a comp XE270HR. Any inputs appreciated! love the car and your channel man!
danetbra63 check your harmonic balancer it could be spun 180 degrees and creating a strong vibration right at the crank. I just swapped mine the old one was completely spun the wrong way.
I have a low rpm stumble, rough idle, and start stall after a hot soak but it's fine at high rpm on my 89 grand marquis 50 . I'm trying to figure out what it is and I'm testing stuff out. I have an msd coil and I'm wondering if there's a way to check its all good without just guessing and replacing it
It also surges for the first mile after a hot soak
FYI - high school physics lesson: when the current is interrupted (points open) is when the spark fires. You have it backwards.
How come you didn't recheck the timing mark after you locked the distributor in place and plugged the spout connector back in?
Im sure I did, maybe missed it on the editing? Or maybe I was cofident I didnt move the dist after locking it in lol Likely didnt check after plugging Spout back in...the ecu will advance as needed anyway
@@HOUSEOFDULA Oh ok cool, not trying to be a smartass or anything man just asking because i just did mine and when I plugged the spout connector back in it moved the timing mark to a different position when I re checked it with my light. Car cranks on first try, good power throughout the RPM range, so I'm assuming its fine but just wanted to know if that was normal or not and I can't find a video on here that talks about the mark moving after the spout is put in.
@@thehellfox3423 - Yep. All good! Thats normal. The spout tells the computer to take over timing. Plugging it back in you'll see it move / advance.
What harmonic balancer is that been looking for one with the white markings.. mine is just solid black and can barely see the timing Marks thanks
Man I wish I knew it was on the motor when I bought the 89. I know you can get 302 timing tape with bright colors, I did this on my Torino.
HOUSE OF DULA k sounds good I think I found one that is black with the white markings.
Try the ignition pickup coil inside the distributor. They are common failure items.
at 13:05 you can hear a distinct whistle that sounds like a vacuum leak. Do you know what that is? Some say it's the TB/IAC others say it's a vacuum leak.....mind does the same thing and goes a way with RPMs.
Is this a bbk tb?
@@kowpow2259 Mine is not a BBK. It looks like an SR Performance. It's also probably 75 or 80MM. It's bigger than the opening of the GT40 tubular intake, which is supposed to be 70MM. I got an Accufab 70MM to replace it with but haven't installed it yet. I'm still thinking vacuum leak somewhere.
Just an FYI you wanna flip your timing light clip over then put on spark plug wire. If u look at the top of it you’ll see where it says “plug” with an arrow pointing right. Has to point towards driver side. I didn’t know this either at first. 😳
Never heard this before. Im not sure the clip cares where its sided, as long as the completely clipped over the wire. Could be wrong!
Another nice video, good call on the Artic Silver its better than the white thermal grease. Noticed that your running an air filter in the engine bay, which is not to bad on a cool day or night. Running an air filter in the engine bay I'm sure you know will draw nothing but hot air especially on a hot day. Also the pulsations from the fan could be causing throttle issue for you. At the very least I would suggest covering the air filter to prevent air form the fan, or if you still have the factory air box with a K&N filter minus the factory resonator and see if that helps at all. If you could get a cooler air charge into the engine, it might allow you to bump the timing another point or two then you will really have a raped ape. Just a thought.
I have a feeling that the problem was the Artic Silver. Dielectric grease is electrically insulating, Artic Silver is a conductive material meant to move heat from one surface to another. Insulating against current from spark is probably what is required. The heat wash from the distributor would always flow OUT to the module which would happen either way, just faster with artic silver, meaning it cooked faster and probably was taking spark that the dielectric grease would have stopped.
Artic silver has replaced the White Thermal grease of yesteryear. It conducts heat better that the old style Thermal Grease and it is also an electrical insulator. I have taken an Ohm meter to the Artic Silver and it reads infinite, so he made the right choice I think he just got a bad module as he stated in the video. I suspect that he also used the Artic Silver on the old module he put back in with no issues.
I thought he might have used it on the original again so wasn't quite sure, but that's good to know. I keep arctic silver on hand for pc builds, but didn't connect using it on the car.
I went with the BBK intake and bought an extra filter.When ones dirty,pop on the backup,clean the dirty one,it becomes the backup.And it makes a difference over having the cone filter in the engine compartment
I just wanted to pass along that it’s been found out that a lot of the new motor craft parts especially the TFi modules may not actually be motorcraft. I know they come in the box but a lot of the new ones don’t have it stamped on the TFI. There was a thread on one of the forums about it’s just a heads up.
Seems true...sad, mind as well get the chepo chinese ones they are all the same now days.
True> Ive been doing some research on it and it seems as though the heat it the main culprit. I guess the higher quality Motorcraft one could handle the heat better. I have also read some people have had success with the Chinese ones IF they have the TFI relocation kit. I can only assume its because then they don't get hot like before. Myself I plan on doing a relocation before I even have problems. Could be an Idea for a possible video ;)
what harmonic balancer do yo have ?
Man thats a great question. I have no clue. Came with motor when I bought the 89. Looks like a cheapish aftermarket, or stock.
Is the one that failed also the one you dropped? I've dropped them and ruined them before
No, in fact, I was holding the old one that dropped and ended up being the one working. Odd...I can see dropping them is no good...just seems they used to be made much better.
I always thought you had to turn the car on without the spout plug, and run it at the safe timing. Then plug it in while running so the computer could recognize the new stuff.
Wheres the crank position sensor on these 86s
They dont have one. They use a hall effect style distributor for ignition (dura spark), based on cam timing. You wont see crank position sensors until you get to distributorless coil-over systems...ie the 1996 4.6L mod motors.
Yes indeed Foxbodies are LIT! Not easy to find. Glad I kept mine too!
Now that was funny, I don't care who u are!..Lol great video thanks brother, car sounds awesome.
Thanks Marty!
Where did you get the tool for tfi module
Its just a 5.5 mm deep socket and lil thumb ratchet. Got both at Oreillys.
You can get the actual tool at AutoZone for around $10.
What is your firing order on this stang?
1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
@@HOUSEOFDULA thanks so much. Had trouble on my 82. Got it fixed thanks so much. Awesome stuff by the way been following doing mine too.
Are still running off the tune that was in the car? If so be careful tune's timing curve is probably based off of 10 degrees initial base timing, by going up to 13 no telling what your at up stairs in the rpm band. Awesome video man I actually get bummed if there is no new content. #notastalker
More to come man. lol #notastalker. The car just responds so well to timing. The difference between 10 to 12 is something I can feel immensely. And from 12 to 13 was huge. It must be liking that 93 octane too, because it makes me want to test 14 degrees. But your right, no clue what the total timing is at WOT on that tune.
Same exact thing happened to me. I put a brand new motor craft tfi and the car died down the block. Put the original 30 year old back in and it’s still running.
Crazy! One would think motorcraft would still be quality. Looks like not so much.
O..... that tool is a must
Yup, and small, keep it in glove box with a spare 1/2" wrench for the distributor.
Love your channel and the content you put out. I was hoping you can help me out. I have four on my 92 mustang 5 liter they are 12,21,41, and 91 I have switch everything out with new parts. New o2 sensors, temperature sending unit,and I've set the timing but the codes still come up. I would appreciate anybody's help. Thank you and keep up the good work.
Nice video bro nice you take care 🏎🏎
Does anybody know what would cause part throttle hesitation or miss?
Cal Ripken Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks freeze frame, record, oxygen sensor test, ABS, MIL light turn off, oil schedule light turn off, graphing, and more. It includes OBD I cables for Ford, G.M., Chrysler, and 2 Toyota cables. It has a cigarette lighter cable, and OBD II cable, and instructions. It has code- connect for solutions to problems.
Great video
How many guys have asked if it's supercharged because of the trickflow intake ? I have a similar setup and every thinks I have a supercharger
Here's a riddle I probably won't get an answer on (I have a 1985 GT with a carburetor so no one knows about those old things hahaha) My Idle is surging up and down at a light or when stationary just like it has a 3/4 cam in it and is starving for fuel.... It's a stock motor with the stock Holly 600 carb. and original "Snorkle" air cleaner assembly. Any Ideas? it doesn't stall but it's annoying....
(Also- Has bolt on shit- Edelbrock RPM Performer manifold, BBK Long Tubes, MSD dizzy and Flame Thrower if any of that may matter)
Surging on a carb is a lower idle circuit metering issue likely. Meaning check for vacuum leaks. Especially around the carb base. I have more expertise with carbs. Id check the carb and make sure its tight / inspect seal. Check ALL vacuum hoses. Lastly check intake. Edelbrock RPM is a great intake. If all vacuum is good, carb might have a buster power valve or stuck float. If you have never rebuilt the carb, rebuilt kits are pretty cheap and good insurance. A busted power valve will suck fuel into the lower intake outside the carb and will run rich.
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Thumbs down? Must be bow tie buffoons...powered by FORD baby!!!
Nice bro!
Mike, That wasn't the "grain of rice" method....
no not at all. I layered it on. Figured tolerance's was not as good, surfaces not as smooth as a CPU would be...Might be too much you think?
distributor surface being what it is, i think as long as it's not oozing out as you screw it down, it's good.
LOL!!! I had the same thing happen to my Fox, so I went with a fan cooled relocation part from FatFoxx
No parts are made in the USA any more only distributed here in the states. Most parts are made in Mexico China and Indonesia
Unfortunately....even Motorcraft new parts Im getting are coming from china it seems....The world we live in now.
NICE......
to much or not enough thermal paste can cause early failure.
So much much for should run butter smooth. Lol nice video tho!
Yup lol No sugar coating or editing lol, its just how it ended up working out, had to be honest on camera. These never work out as planned.
D.O.A. wow,i heard stories b4 too
Did my best to buy the best to avoid it too. Crazy...
mine whet out last year to
I have a 1983 foxs body
You did kind of drop it. LOL
TRUE! But I was holding the faulty one at the time, not the new motorcraft one.
HOUSE OF DULA, yeah J/K faulty products are common anymore. Like the starter solenoid you have on the inside fender. Surprised that hasn’t caused problem because they are shit anymore as well. I’ve gotten 3 faulty ones in a row before I scrapped it and replaced it with a relay & mini starter.
First
Motorcraft china junk!
motor craft parts are now cheep Chinese knock off parts check out TH-cam on this ...only buy from the ford dealers if you want real parts? ebay and other places ill think they are real parts but they are NOT...its a real problem ..