Haley's technique, for not needing special tools (beginner-friendly/low-cost); not having to stop & tie a knot; and I learned a new trick with the thread as a guide! (I might still draw a line for my comfort--partly bc I read from the pros that dart lines should actually be curved to mimic our bodies' curves?). Thanks, y'all--timely for me right now!
Whether a dart line should be curved depends on how it was drafted for the pattern, so you'll definitely want to pay attention to that. If a pattern has a dart with straight dart legs, I'd recommend sewing them straight.
I actually do a combination of both methods. I use a pin to mark the end of the dart (never heard of a screw punch before), mark the lines with chalk, pin along the line first to align everything, pin perpendicular to the dart and remove the parallel pins to sew and tie the end with a knot
Interestingly, I use a combination of both! Pin marking yet pin basting. I draw a sewing line and tie off my dart points, so I guess I'm closer to Sarai's method.
I bought a screw punch after hearing about it on the podcast, and I love it! I’m never as precise as I’d like with a pin, and I really do a much better job with Sarai’s method! And I knot the tails! But these sew-downs are so fun! Showing that there is more than one way to do a job!
I like them both and I like the screw punch perfect for those hole markings on the pattern, and I like the shortened stitch at the end, I have use both.
I take a few stitches along the very edge of the fabric when approaching the dart tip, then tie off the threads. This results in a more rounded tip rather than a pointed tip.
Are you saying that you narrow your dart point a little before you normally would in order to stitch along the fold for a few stitches? I’m just trying to better understand your process so I can give it a try.
@@GayleHallAZ Yes - just gradually move out to the fold in the last centimetre then do a few stitches on the fold. Works best on narrow darts - good luck
Thanks for this. I have been seeing darts for years but never happy. Glad to see how you use the screw punch. I will try that. I’ve always done the pin method. I have seen Haley’s method for sewing the dart I tried it but it didn’t turn out. I will keep trying, but I usually draw a line. I tie off the ends but I also decrease my stitch length at the end. So I guess I also use a combination
I use a combination of both, I use the pin at the dot however I have the screw punch so I think I’ll try it, I like drawing in the lines so I’m going with team Sarai
I'm new to sewing (i'm learning thru youtube videos), so I'm a bit clumsy at everything. I love these sewdown videos--it's nice to see different ways to get the same result.
my darts are a combination of both techniques. Love using the screw punch! I don't like the idea of having pins underneath my dart, as that would be awkward. I'm so glad that neither of you back-stitched the end of your dart, I hate to see people doing that. Also another step I do on difficult fabric is to tack/baste the dart in place before machine stitching :)
I also like a combo. I loved the hole punch idea (just bought one of those!) so I’ll definitely be using that. Then I pin at right angles to dart leg. But i have another method of sewing it. I sew to the dart point then turn the fabric round and sew a short distance back within the dart before backstitching! I find it works really well. I saw it demonstrated a while ago and have done it ever since. Diana
I Kind of do a bit of both techniques, But when I get to the end of the dart, I sew just off the edge (after shortening my stitch length about 1/4 inch before the end of the dart) and turn my dart around and sew a couple more stitches just on the fabric above the dart so no need to tie or backstitch.
That internal return, not back-stitching, is the “pro” technique taught in my Jr. College fashion coursework. Also used decreasing stitch length for extra security.
I personally use Haley’s methods. I use to use the tied knot method but after watching other pros like Angela Wolfe I stopped tying off darts because I always didn’t get to the end then I had a bump.
I mark mine with tracing paper and a wheel, plus I clip the edge. I pin like Haley, and knot like Sarai. On my next dart I'm going to try marking like Sarai, and use Haley's thread guide method. I've also seen people cut the dart out of the pattern and mark in the empty spot. I might try that. I think it would work well with paper patterns more than tissue patterns. Oh, I will also try Haley's fold, finger press and pin. That might be the easiest of all of them!
@@hoppaheedahoe2581 Awww! I'm fine, thank you! How are you? I lost my sewjo for about a year. I was so sad about it, I thought I'd never want to sew again. It came back, though, and I have been sewing my little heart out. I'm very happy about it!!
I use both methods for marking darts - it depends on the fabric. I also use tracing paper and a wheel (also depends on the fabric). I never clip the dart legs or any other pattern marks. I pin like Haley but sew like Sarai. Thanks for another great video!
I've actually gone back to tailor tacks or thread marking As I've got older and " curvier" and less standard, I have bigger dart take up or sometimes uneven or shaped darts. Thread marking doesn't take much longer than Pins and you can pull them together at the machine erayher than lots of prep
I like & use them both depending on the fabric & where the dart will end up on the body. For areas that will be easy to see (such as bust) I like the smooth look that the small stitch length provides, for areas such as the back of a skirt, I tie off. I would really love to see different ways you handle seam finishes; e.g. are there differing ways to do flat felled seams? How about French seams, or clean finish? When you don’t use a serger, how do you decide which seam finishes to use? Thanks so much for the vids!!
Haley’s in my opinion is best:however I still draw a line before pinning. Being a newbie it really helps. Thanks for sharing this. I’d love to see a sew down about laying down pattern pieces and cutting them out. Also hemming methods
Without hesitation, Haley won all three rounds IMO. I think Sarai’s were unnecessarily fussy. I already own the hole punch and use it for marking various places on my patterns. But I put a pin through the dart point like Haley to mark both dart points on the bodice pieces. I’ve been sewing for over 50 years and learned from the master - Nancy Zieman. I use her recommended method for securing the threads after stitching off at the dart point (after reducing my stitch length). Nancy recommended stitching off, then placing the machine needle back into the dart near the fold, just up from the dart point, and doing a lock stitch to secure the thread ends. Then trim your thread ends about 1/4” in length and remove your work from the machine. You’ll want to create a little slack in the thread after stitching off the dart point and before returning your needle into the fold area of the dart for the lock stitch. Thank you for showing your different methods here so people can decide what works best for them! 🤗
Interesting...I do this differently. I don't mark the tip, other than having a pin at the point of the dart. I hold that in place, line up my notches and then grab a piece of cardstock to give myself a line to follow (that I stitch next to) lining the cardstock up from the dart point to the notches. I am on team double knot though.
Honestly I switch between their methods depending on what fabric I am using. Some super fine fabrics dont like the reduced stitch length while super thick fabrics can have the same issue for different reasons.
I’d like to see how to stitch in the ditch and catch the underside every time instead of hand sewing (bodices, sleeve cuffs, bias binding, etc) . Also, how to enclose sleeve head seams and waist seams in a lined bodice. I want to do both and can’t find a method. I don’t like to serge, I prefer French seams because it is not itchy like a serger seam. I am finding alternatives to enclose my seams with a lined bodice. Thanks!
I have a question, would you sew a bust or shoulder dart using knit fabric? There are patterns that call for this and I was always taught that you don't dart using knits.
Haley's technique, for not needing special tools (beginner-friendly/low-cost); not having to stop & tie a knot; and I learned a new trick with the thread as a guide! (I might still draw a line for my comfort--partly bc I read from the pros that dart lines should actually be curved to mimic our bodies' curves?). Thanks, y'all--timely for me right now!
Whether a dart line should be curved depends on how it was drafted for the pattern, so you'll definitely want to pay attention to that. If a pattern has a dart with straight dart legs, I'd recommend sewing them straight.
@@SeamworkVideo If body dimensions require pattern adjustments anyways , are there any rules for how to properly curve a dart?
I actually do a combination of both methods. I use a pin to mark the end of the dart (never heard of a screw punch before), mark the lines with chalk, pin along the line first to align everything, pin perpendicular to the dart and remove the parallel pins to sew and tie the end with a knot
Interestingly, I use a combination of both! Pin marking yet pin basting. I draw a sewing line and tie off my dart points, so I guess I'm closer to Sarai's method.
I bought a screw punch after hearing about it on the podcast, and I love it! I’m never as precise as I’d like with a pin, and I really do a much better job with Sarai’s method! And I knot the tails! But these sew-downs are so fun! Showing that there is more than one way to do a job!
So glad you're liking them!
I will always love tailor tacks that don't leave any marking line/dot that might not come out. Of these two, I side with Haley.
I like them both and I like the screw punch perfect for those hole markings on the pattern, and I like the shortened stitch at the end, I have use both.
It's nice to see different methods for things. And the outtakes are cute. :)
Glad you like them!
I take a few stitches along the very edge of the fabric when approaching the dart tip, then tie off the threads. This results in a more rounded tip rather than a pointed tip.
this method of a few stitches along the fold is what I learned in a diploma course - I was told it was manufacturing standard
Are you saying that you narrow your dart point a little before you normally would in order to stitch along the fold for a few stitches? I’m just trying to better understand your process so I can give it a try.
@@GayleHallAZ Yes - just gradually move out to the fold in the last centimetre then do a few stitches on the fold. Works best on narrow darts - good luck
Thanks for sharing!
@@GayleHallAZ Exactly! 😊
Thanks for this. I have been seeing darts for years but never happy. Glad to see how you use the screw punch. I will try that. I’ve always done the pin method. I have seen Haley’s method for sewing the dart I tried it but it didn’t turn out. I will keep trying, but I usually draw a line. I tie off the ends but I also decrease my stitch length at the end. So I guess I also use a combination
I use a combination of both, I use the pin at the dot however I have the screw punch so I think I’ll try it, I like drawing in the lines so I’m going with team Sarai
I'm new to sewing (i'm learning thru youtube videos), so I'm a bit clumsy at everything. I love these sewdown videos--it's nice to see different ways to get the same result.
Glad you like them!
my darts are a combination of both techniques. Love using the screw punch! I don't like the idea of having pins underneath my dart, as that would be awkward. I'm so glad that neither of you back-stitched the end of your dart, I hate to see people doing that. Also another step I do on difficult fabric is to tack/baste the dart in place before machine stitching :)
I also like a combo. I loved the hole punch idea (just bought one of those!) so I’ll definitely be using that. Then I pin at right angles to dart leg. But i have another method of sewing it. I sew to the dart point then turn the fabric round and sew a short distance back within the dart before backstitching! I find it works really well. I saw it demonstrated a while ago and have done it ever since. Diana
Nice! That's a great method too!
I Kind of do a bit of both techniques, But when I get to the end of the dart, I sew just off the edge (after shortening my stitch length about 1/4 inch before the end of the dart) and turn my dart around and sew a couple more stitches just on the fabric above the dart so no need to tie or backstitch.
That internal return, not back-stitching, is the “pro” technique taught in my Jr. College fashion coursework. Also used decreasing stitch length for extra security.
I loved both methods, and learned some new tricks! Looking forward to my next dart. Thanks so much for sharing 😁👍🏼.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I personally use Haley’s methods. I use to use the tied knot method but after watching other pros like Angela Wolfe I stopped tying off darts because I always didn’t get to the end then I had a bump.
3 for 3 I use Haley’s methods AND I often add a double knot at the tip for extra security 😉
I love these videos! When I watched Sarai, that was my favorite method and when I watched Haley that was my favorite method! 🤷♀
Both methods are great, they can both be your favorite! 😁
Haaaaa so cute! I think I will try both and see what feels more natural to me. I suspect it will be a combination of both
I use Haley's technique most often, but basting if it is a slippery fabric.
I mark mine with tracing paper and a wheel, plus I clip the edge. I pin like Haley, and knot like Sarai. On my next dart I'm going to try marking like Sarai, and use Haley's thread guide method. I've also seen people cut the dart out of the pattern and mark in the empty spot. I might try that. I think it would work well with paper patterns more than tissue patterns. Oh, I will also try Haley's fold, finger press and pin. That might be the easiest of all of them!
Omg, how are you?! I miss your videos. So nice to see you in the comments! I hope you are well and sewing alot!
@@hoppaheedahoe2581 Awww! I'm fine, thank you! How are you? I lost my sewjo for about a year. I was so sad about it, I thought I'd never want to sew again. It came back, though, and I have been sewing my little heart out. I'm very happy about it!!
I use both methods for marking darts - it depends on the fabric. I also use tracing paper and a wheel (also depends on the fabric). I never clip the dart legs or any other pattern marks. I pin like Haley but sew like Sarai. Thanks for another great video!
Thanks for watching!
I’m closer to Sarai except I pin the dart tip. I will look into the screw punch.
I would love to see your tricks for hemming in the round
Hard to choose, I intend to use them both 😊
I've actually gone back to tailor tacks or thread marking
As I've got older and " curvier" and less standard, I have bigger dart take up or sometimes uneven or shaped darts.
Thread marking doesn't take much longer than Pins and you can pull them together at the machine erayher than lots of prep
I like & use them both depending on the fabric & where the dart will end up on the body. For areas that will be easy to see (such as bust) I like the smooth look that the small stitch length provides, for areas such as the back of a skirt, I tie off.
I would really love to see different ways you handle seam finishes; e.g. are there differing ways to do flat felled seams? How about French seams, or clean finish? When you don’t use a serger, how do you decide which seam finishes to use?
Thanks so much for the vids!!
Thanks for the seam finishes suggestion!
Haley’s in my opinion is best:however I still draw a line before pinning. Being a newbie it really helps. Thanks for sharing this. I’d love to see a sew down about laying down pattern pieces and cutting them out. Also hemming methods
Thanks for the future Sewdown suggestions!
I also agree re hemming, straight and then curved hems, heavy and drapey fabrics.
This was fun! I am just about to try sewing darts, so perfect timing! I will try both methods then decide.
Have fun!
I'm with Sarai on this one!
Without hesitation, Haley won all three rounds IMO. I think Sarai’s were unnecessarily fussy. I already own the hole punch and use it for marking various places on my patterns. But I put a pin through the dart point like Haley to mark both dart points on the bodice pieces.
I’ve been sewing for over 50 years and learned from the master - Nancy Zieman. I use her recommended method for securing the threads after stitching off at the dart point (after reducing my stitch length). Nancy recommended stitching off, then placing the machine needle back into the dart near the fold, just up from the dart point, and doing a lock stitch to secure the thread ends. Then trim your thread ends about 1/4” in length and remove your work from the machine. You’ll want to create a little slack in the thread after stitching off the dart point and before returning your needle into the fold area of the dart for the lock stitch.
Thank you for showing your different methods here so people can decide what works best for them! 🤗
Interesting...I do this differently. I don't mark the tip, other than having a pin at the point of the dart. I hold that in place, line up my notches and then grab a piece of cardstock to give myself a line to follow (that I stitch next to) lining the cardstock up from the dart point to the notches. I am on team double knot though.
I sew from the dart tip as well. no back stitching, then knot the threads at the dart tip.
There are so many different, great ways to sew a dart!
@@SeamworkVideo truly and I appreciate you showing what's working for you.
Love the blooper reel at the end!
Glad you liked it!
Honestly I switch between their methods depending on what fabric I am using. Some super fine fabrics dont like the reduced stitch length while super thick fabrics can have the same issue for different reasons.
Thanks for sharing!
Team Haley !! Love these vids guys 😂
What pattern is the dress hanging in the background? It’s so cute!
That's the Killian in our Spoonflower fabric!
I use tailors tacks to mark
Another great sewdown! I’m on team Haley.
Right on! Thanks so much for watching!
Could you give me some info on your screw punch? Where do you get it?
Hardware stores carry them, or you can find them online really easily as well - just search "screw punch".
Great technique..💯
I’d like to see how to stitch in the ditch and catch the underside every time instead of hand sewing (bodices, sleeve cuffs, bias binding, etc) . Also, how to enclose sleeve head seams and waist seams in a lined bodice. I want to do both and can’t find a method. I don’t like to serge, I prefer French seams because it is not itchy like a serger seam. I am finding alternatives to enclose my seams with a lined bodice. Thanks!
Thanks for these suggestions!
I have a question, would you sew a bust or shoulder dart using knit fabric? There are patterns that call for this and I was always taught that you don't dart using knits.
It is definitely less common to use a dart with knits, but it may depend on the amount of stretch the pattern is calling for.
I use the pin version. For me, it's quick and easy ❤ I learned this from attending a sewing expo 😂🧵🪡🧵
Both are great methods, but why have I never thought of clipping the dart legs? 🤦♀
Glad it was helpful!
Haley wins this one!
You guys crack me up 😂
Haley wins hands down, IMHO! LOL.
🤣