Awesome paint scheme! Looking forward to seeing tutorials on the upcoming contrast paints and chaos space marine tutorials with the new base paints meant for them. (Especially the Word Bearers and perhaps a new Iron Warriors tutorial!) Great video as always!
Very cool! I’ve actually been looking into those guys! Armour has a really great looking blue base. Great job as always. Thanks for posting (thanks for your time & work too!)
I've been wanting to get back into the hobby after reading a number of books, and when I finally saw this video I was compelled to try it out myself, as I've fallen in love with the Chapter itself. So I really want to thank you for inspiring me to get back into painting, and giving me the inspiration for my first real space marine project!
Very nice. The only suggestion I have for anyone thinking of doing an Emperor's Spear army is to make a whole pot of mixed medium and shade ready to go so you'll have consistency when you you use your pre-made shade.
Great video! I would really love seeing how you'd go about painting the Mentor Legion that also features prominently in the book - Their lore is fascinating and Aaron Dembski-Bowden did so much to flesh them out!
This was another great video. I like the way you always advise to practice and encourage. I would love to see you do statues with contrast paints when you get them. Grey stones and weathered stone would be interesting. A.
Thx for this one. Now i knew what chapter i will start. I was beating myself on Emperor's spears or Carcharodons., but your vid sell me out on the blue boys.
...great tip about varnishing over a drybrushing...my first impression from the video thumb nail was I thought you airbrushed the model. The drybrushing/varnishing is the key to brush work that can look like airbrushing.
It can take a bit of practice to get as smooth a finish as possible, but once you've got the hang of it you'll find there's always a use for that big drybrush. :D
Could you do a more detailed look at the 3d printed shoulder pads? It looks like they are pretty similar in size and shape now to the normal ones, so I would love to see some close-up comparisons.
Great Video! I really like the shoulder pad. I would love to see a video where you show how you designed the shoulder pad and what kind of program you use and such.
Windows 10 has a default 3D Builder program which I've actually found massively useful. Just that and a transparent PNG image of the shape you want to put on a pad, use the Emboss function... a bit of tweaking and you're done.
There's a bit of a learning curve and early mishaps can seem pretty daunting at first, but once you start to get the swing of things and develop a rhythm to your work with them, they make a lot of sense. Nowhere near as scary as you'd think. :D
Starting a spears force soon out of 2 indomitus boxes and a few extras. I love the scheme here. What did you use for the silver bits? Lead Belcher or iron warrior?
I'm pretty sure this was Leadbelcher. These days I'd probably use Iron Hands Steel instead since it finishes a little brighter without having to highlight anything.
It's really up to you. I'm not a huge fan of silver helmets except on wholly silver Marines, but that's your call. If you think it'd look good, that's what matters.
Great video. Could you do a video on how to paint Genesis Chapter space marines, successor of Ultramarines. I've not been able to find a how to video anywhere.
Hey Sledge great job as usual. Quick question for you. You know how velejo air brush paints are much thinner than their paint brush paints? Does anyone make an in the pot, already thinned down layer paint thereby eliminating the need for a medium and/or wet pallet? Seems like a simple thing to do that would actually be more cost effective for the paint companies to produce. Just curious. Thanks.
Pre-thinned paints are one of those things that sound good in theory, but there's a bit more to consider than just pulling them straight out of the pot. Paints generally arrive 'too thick' which means you can thin them out as you like, or mix them with different mediums to get a number of different effects; other stuff than just water can be used as a thinner, and in doing so you get a great deal of control over what your paint will actually do when it comes off the brush. It takes a bit of practice - and no small amount of time to get the mix quite how you like - but paint being thicker than it needs to be does ultimately save you a little bit of paint overall. In short, I honestly don't know if anybody sells pre-thinned stuff! I'm not sure that it's out there yet.
Another excellent and just as equally important - speedy quality painting guide. Thanks so much. Question - when you print your pauldrons, what orientation do you print them at? Thanks.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Thank you for doing all of this, now to just find a place where i can print them, i did not think i would ever be able to field this emperor's spears army. very new to the hobby, and fell in love with the design, and story of the spears.
im new to the hobby but do you got a Guide on your channel on how to Learn Drybrushing im always Tricked out by it i could never get highlights going lol
could you explain something ... the helmet with which primer did you do it? in addition, what are the two options you say at 4.37 minutes ... that is what should I use and what have you done?
Hi, I've noticed sometimes you apply varnish as the very last step, in this video it comes right before the wash, is it the same or do you have any rule?
It really depends on what I'm looking to achieve with it. Ordinarily I'll use varnish as a final step, but sometimes it can be useful for helping with things like using shades.
It's really a matter of taste. This is probably closer to the classic powder blue of Ultramarines, but I'd say that if you do go ahead and paint them with gold trim you're going to spend a lot of time explaining to people that yes, they really are Ultramarines! 😂 Ultimately, it's your hobby, and what you think looks best is what will work for you. Just be prepared that you're going to get endless questions about it!
You could thin them with water to dilute the coverage, but it won't collect in the recesses in quite the same way. If you are planning on painting a few of these guys, I'd suggest it's easiest just to pick up the pot of medium.
I blame you -- Woot had an Ender 3 on sale for $180 after this, and having seen that was one of the two 3D Printers you use, well, the price was right. Need to get a resin next, heh.
In theory, sure! I'd personally aim for a slightly darker blue - maybe start from Macragge Blue, layer on Calgar Blue and do the drybrush with something like Etherium Blue before doing the varnish and shade. The technique would be exactly the same, though!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Thank you for your reply and suggestion. Would you also dilute the shade? And if I may be so cheeky and ask another question: would I be able to use army painter quick shade blue and their matte varnish as I have both in the basement. I'm really enjoying your videos. Greetings from Gelsenkirchen :)
Do you use varnish as a final step as well? I imagine I could use the protection of it, but I don't know if two layers would screw something up. Thanks!
You have convinced me to start a Spears army Haha. How did your white helmet get so smooth looking? When I dry brush praxi white it tends to look very...grainy?
I get the same issue with Praxeti White. There's a couple of Dry paints that have a weird kinda 'cottage cheese' consistency that go quite chalky when drybrushing them on, right? I try to brush them on quite lightly, let a layer dry and 'stick' properly for a couple minutes, then do a second and sometimes third pass to slowly build up the transition of colour rather than having it go streaky and horrible. A varnish also helps smooth out and hide some of the worst of it!
It might be, though I'd still think you would need a couple of passes of the first blue to get a solid basecoat. It's really a matter of preference at that point, though, and whatever you happen to have to hand!
I really quite like this one! I think I'm going to steal this technique for my Ultramarines; I just don't have the brush control for all the highlighting right now, and this seems to do the trick.
For the leather on this dude I used a couple of coats of Eshin Grey. I like Dryad Bark for brown leather, usually with an Agrax Earthshade and then Doombull Brown on the edges for a nice dark red leather appearance.
Raptors are one that'll take a little while to get to, but if it helps, I'd paint the armour in exactly the same method but using the following paints instead: Death Guard Green, Underhive Ash drybrush, then shade with Athonian Camoshade. Works a treat!
One of these: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3194871 They're dead useful! I've got a couple printed out and they're good mostly for keeping shade pots open while I'm working.
Do you have any tips for using those larger base brushes? Any time I've tried to use'em, I always end up with too much paint clogging up all the nooks and crannies.
It might sound like I'm being trite or dismissive, but honestly? Just use less paint. You'll find a palette becomes invaluable for when you're using the bigger brushes; you can swipe your brush across a smooth surface and get an idea of how much paint you're going to leave behind. If you're blobbing off huge great wet patches, rinse your brush off, squeeze out the majority of the water and go back to your little puddle of thinned paint to get something fresh and try the same again, then go to your model.
Oh not at all! I'm still very much a beginner, so any advice is greatly appreciated! I'm betting you're right, since I use a wet palette, maybe I should lay down a piece of paper so I can get a better idea of what I'll leave behind without over thinning my paint. Thanks a ton! Your videos have been invaluable, keep up the great work!
I'm honestly not sure how to do screen recording, so it'd not be very interesting! If it helps, it's actually super simple - just take a look at the documentation for Windows' built-in 3D Builder program. It's super easy to use. :D
Just a little dot of Bloodletter in each lens since they're already primed white. Nice and quick! The gold actually is Retributor Gold, just without any shading on it - the only shade around it is Nuln Oil where the blade meets the gold. Really quick if you've not got a lot of gold areas you need to pick out details on.
Looks great! Very good job :) Do you have any experience as to how GW handles custom printed bits and or third party bits included on models? So are they ok with brining them to a GW store?
As with any good question, there's not really a single answer to this. I've never heard of store managers or staff having an issue with things like shoulder pads and helmets, for example, since they're enhancements to a kit that they already sell. If you turn up with a Deathwatch squad carrying four 3D printed frag cannons they might get a little tetchy, but the easiest thing to do is just to ask. If they've really got a problem with printed shoulder pads I'd be super surprised, though.
Sonic Sledgehammer Studio I would make sure it is painted too. A painted home made frag cannon is les suspicious than a bright shiny 3d printed orange one....
Anything with the standard size shoulder pad. So you'd probably want a different shape for something like Aggressors, but almost any power armour should look fine with them.
Hi, I really love these painting method, I’m going to give it a go! 👍 One question, when spraying did you cover up the bolster and blade? Or just spray them too? Cheers 🍻
I just sprayed them all with the same primer. Black and metallics tend to cover pretty well, so it doesn't matter much if it's not quite the right colour underneath, it won't show through. :D
amazing man how do you get the finish without so much blotchy spots and tide marks its insane what you've acheived? the best tutorial and outcome ive seen from your channel and i watch all your vids man so excellent job
The big trick really is in the varnish before the shade. It keeps the shade from 'sticking' and giving you those ugly tide marks and blotches, I tend to find. Great if you're doing something with large flat areas like a Space Marine!
![Speed Painting Black Armour - Iron Hands Made Interesting! [How I Paint Things]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dDYSY80ck8w/mqdefault.jpg)
![Speed Painting Black Armour - Iron Hands Made Interesting! [How I Paint Things]](/img/tr.png)
Awesome paint scheme! Looking forward to seeing tutorials on the upcoming contrast paints and chaos space marine tutorials with the new base paints meant for them. (Especially the Word Bearers and perhaps a new Iron Warriors tutorial!) Great video as always!
That is a very cool color scheme! The blue and the white are an interesting mix that really work together. Thanks for sharing this.
Very cool! I’ve actually been looking into those guys! Armour has a really great looking blue base. Great job as always. Thanks for posting (thanks for your time & work too!)
Excellent as always. REEEEEEEEAAALY want to see you with those new contrast paints. I trust your judgement there.
Dale Amsbaugh second that request!
When I get them, sure!
I've been wanting to get back into the hobby after reading a number of books, and when I finally saw this video I was compelled to try it out myself, as I've fallen in love with the Chapter itself. So I really want to thank you for inspiring me to get back into painting, and giving me the inspiration for my first real space marine project!
Definitely going with this color scheme!
Looks amazing! It's so faithful to the art depictions!
Very nice. The only suggestion I have for anyone thinking of doing an Emperor's Spear army is to make a whole pot of mixed medium and shade ready to go so you'll have consistency when you you use your pre-made shade.
Absolutely! Mixer bottles with dropper tops on Amazon or eBay are cents as well, so you're never short something to put your mixes in.
2:18 & 2:42
I really like the look of that thin blue over the mid grey. It made for excellent shading.
Very good guide looking forward to trying this out myself
Great video! Using this scheme for my storm wardens
Great video! I would really love seeing how you'd go about painting the Mentor Legion that also features prominently in the book - Their lore is fascinating and Aaron Dembski-Bowden did so much to flesh them out!
Looks fantastic!
I got the collectors edition of the book and I’ve been looking for a good paint guide. Thank you!
Such a simple technique but very effective, love it ^_^ learnt a lot from you mate :D
As I'm fond of pointing out, you don't always have to reinvent the wheel to get a decent result. :D Glad to help!
Hey thanks, this is a kickass paintscheme, I'm going to be repainting my marines pretty soon and I'm definitely going to give this a shot
They're a cool chapter. Redden the Earth was cool, and I'm glad they can still get that ability with Whirlwind of Rage
This was another great video. I like the way you always advise to practice and encourage.
I would love to see you do statues with contrast paints when you get them. Grey stones and weathered stone would be interesting.
A.
Thx for this one. Now i knew what chapter i will start. I was beating myself on Emperor's spears or Carcharodons., but your vid sell me out on the blue boys.
Always love your videos. Keep up the great work.
Really like this scheme looks great.
love the blue armour may use the recipe for stormcast celestial knights
That’s really clean
...great tip about varnishing over a drybrushing...my first impression from the video thumb nail was I thought you airbrushed the model. The drybrushing/varnishing is the key to brush work that can look like airbrushing.
Anything ADB touches turns into gold.
Well done and thanks!
You’re like the master of drybrushing/overbrushing!
It can take a bit of practice to get as smooth a finish as possible, but once you've got the hang of it you'll find there's always a use for that big drybrush. :D
Amazing tutorial. Thanks for sharing!
Super smooth, absolutely love the scheme. Whats that? I could make a Kill Team? oh go on then...
Had to twist your arm, right? ;D
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio the slightest of nudges (and smoothest of paint jobs) is all it takes haha!
nice work!
It's amazing! You really have talent!
Could you do a more detailed look at the 3d printed shoulder pads? It looks like they are pretty similar in size and shape now to the normal ones, so I would love to see some close-up comparisons.
looks great! your pads are amazing. I am crossing my fingers you do blood raven ones soon!
There's been a few requests for Blood Ravens pads. Once I get a few minutes spare I'll give them a shot!
You're using very simple and userfriendly technics which is really cool. The results are very greats ! A pleasure to watch your videos
Can't beat simple! Especially if you've got a lot to paint. ;D
Great Video! I really like the shoulder pad. I would love to see a video where you show how you designed the shoulder pad and what kind of program you use and such.
Windows 10 has a default 3D Builder program which I've actually found massively useful. Just that and a transparent PNG image of the shape you want to put on a pad, use the Emboss function... a bit of tweaking and you're done.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Cool! Thanks a lot. I'll try it out right away.
looks good my man
Looks great ADB would be proud.
That’s really nice. Thankyou so much.
Wow that was helpful!
Nice video as always!! thank youuuu
Hi! You help me a lot!! Thanks for yours videos!!! 😁😁
Happy to help!
Looks really great mate! I really want to get a 3d printer but have no idea where to start and once bought the printer how to operate it Haha.
There's a bit of a learning curve and early mishaps can seem pretty daunting at first, but once you start to get the swing of things and develop a rhythm to your work with them, they make a lot of sense. Nowhere near as scary as you'd think. :D
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio i just watched tons of youtube videos
once set up and you understande what does what its pretty easy and great fun!
Ok thanks gents
Oh, this it'd work quite well for swooping hawkes!
Starting a spears force soon out of 2 indomitus boxes and a few extras. I love the scheme here. What did you use for the silver bits? Lead Belcher or iron warrior?
I'm pretty sure this was Leadbelcher. These days I'd probably use Iron Hands Steel instead since it finishes a little brighter without having to highlight anything.
You’ve GOT to show that to ADB
You know how I am about sharing my stuff! Especially to folks that are already wicked busy!
Sonic Sledgehammer Studio I bet he’d be well chuffed to see it, though
Do you think this blue scheme would match well with stormhost silver on the helmet or shoulders?
It's really up to you. I'm not a huge fan of silver helmets except on wholly silver Marines, but that's your call. If you think it'd look good, that's what matters.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio thanks!
Great video. Could you do a video on how to paint Genesis Chapter space marines, successor of Ultramarines. I've not been able to find a how to video anywhere.
Hey Sledge great job as usual. Quick question for you. You know how velejo air brush paints are much thinner than their paint brush paints? Does anyone make an in the pot, already thinned down layer paint thereby eliminating the need for a medium and/or wet pallet? Seems like a simple thing to do that would actually be more cost effective for the paint companies to produce. Just curious. Thanks.
Pre-thinned paints are one of those things that sound good in theory, but there's a bit more to consider than just pulling them straight out of the pot. Paints generally arrive 'too thick' which means you can thin them out as you like, or mix them with different mediums to get a number of different effects; other stuff than just water can be used as a thinner, and in doing so you get a great deal of control over what your paint will actually do when it comes off the brush. It takes a bit of practice - and no small amount of time to get the mix quite how you like - but paint being thicker than it needs to be does ultimately save you a little bit of paint overall.
In short, I honestly don't know if anybody sells pre-thinned stuff! I'm not sure that it's out there yet.
Another excellent and just as equally important - speedy quality painting guide. Thanks so much. Question - when you print your pauldrons, what orientation do you print them at? Thanks.
I adore this, but how can purchase, or get a hold of that shoulder pad design?
Tadaa! www.thingiverse.com/thing:3668095
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Thank you for doing all of this, now to just find a place where i can print them, i did not think i would ever be able to field this emperor's spears army. very new to the hobby, and fell in love with the design, and story of the spears.
Hey nice work. Can you do Relictors shoulder pads?
I generally do my heads separate too - especially when the miniature has cowl- armour or other overhead details sculpted on the figure
I find it really depends on what colours I'm using, but for helmets like this I would almost always try to find a way to paint them separately! :D
Dope shit looks great
im new to the hobby but do you got a Guide on your channel on how to Learn Drybrushing im always Tricked out by it i could never get highlights going lol
Tremendous!!
Can I use ulthuan grey instead of longbeard grey? THX FOR THIS AWSOME TUTORIALS!
You could theoretically, but it'll look slightly more blue by comparison, is all. Maybe Administratum Grey if you've got that would be closer.
Thumbs up for black holsters and ammo pouches.
Will you be doing a video on the new contrast paints?
Once they're finally available, sure!
could you explain something ... the helmet with which primer did you do it? in addition, what are the two options you say at 4.37 minutes ... that is what should I use and what have you done?
Hi, I've noticed sometimes you apply varnish as the very last step, in this video it comes right before the wash, is it the same or do you have any rule?
It really depends on what I'm looking to achieve with it. Ordinarily I'll use varnish as a final step, but sometimes it can be useful for helping with things like using shades.
Oh I love that shade of blue... Reckon I can paint the trims gold and get away with Ultramarines?
It's really a matter of taste. This is probably closer to the classic powder blue of Ultramarines, but I'd say that if you do go ahead and paint them with gold trim you're going to spend a lot of time explaining to people that yes, they really are Ultramarines! 😂 Ultimately, it's your hobby, and what you think looks best is what will work for you. Just be prepared that you're going to get endless questions about it!
why do you do the wash after the dry brush? Normally I see the other way around
do you need to thin the drakenhof with l.medium or can i use water?
You could thin them with water to dilute the coverage, but it won't collect in the recesses in quite the same way. If you are planning on painting a few of these guys, I'd suggest it's easiest just to pick up the pot of medium.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio thanks for the reply appreciate it!
Hello, can I just use Calgar Blue instead of Hoeth Blue, but then do everything the same?
I blame you -- Woot had an Ender 3 on sale for $180 after this, and having seen that was one of the two 3D Printers you use, well, the price was right. Need to get a resin next, heh.
Could you use the same technique to paint eldar dire avengers?
In theory, sure! I'd personally aim for a slightly darker blue - maybe start from Macragge Blue, layer on Calgar Blue and do the drybrush with something like Etherium Blue before doing the varnish and shade. The technique would be exactly the same, though!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Thank you for your reply and suggestion. Would you also dilute the shade? And if I may be so cheeky and ask another question: would I be able to use army painter quick shade blue and their matte varnish as I have both in the basement. I'm really enjoying your videos. Greetings from Gelsenkirchen :)
You’re a kiwi? Cool.
Solid video mate.
Do you use varnish as a final step as well? I imagine I could use the protection of it, but I don't know if two layers would screw something up. Thanks!
I don't think I did in this case, but it's still good practice for miniatures you're going to be playing games with.
You have convinced me to start a Spears army Haha. How did your white helmet get so smooth looking? When I dry brush praxi white it tends to look very...grainy?
I get the same issue with Praxeti White. There's a couple of Dry paints that have a weird kinda 'cottage cheese' consistency that go quite chalky when drybrushing them on, right? I try to brush them on quite lightly, let a layer dry and 'stick' properly for a couple minutes, then do a second and sometimes third pass to slowly build up the transition of colour rather than having it go streaky and horrible. A varnish also helps smooth out and hide some of the worst of it!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio thanks for the reply! I'll have to try that out. I suppose itll be just a practice thing!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio what did you do for the base of this model?
uuu, you have a spinny thingy. nice!
Everybody's gotta have a spinny thingy!
Would Grey Seer be a good substitute for the base paint?
It might be, though I'd still think you would need a couple of passes of the first blue to get a solid basecoat. It's really a matter of preference at that point, though, and whatever you happen to have to hand!
Thanks for the tutorial! I was just curious as to what brush you were using during this?
great tutorial! How did You made the emperors spear logo?
Would sell this 3D prints? Im thinking about going Emperors Spears custom new army
For the shoulder pads what size dimensions do you print the pads at?
Love watching you paint space marines. The shoulder pad is well done! Where did you get that nifty holder for the bottle of shade?
One of my favourite little widgets I've found and printed so far! www.thingiverse.com/thing:3194871
Have you ever thought about recording for audio books or TV voice overs? That was the first thing I thought of when I heard you speak.
Nice
Awesome work! can you please paint Bloodbound blood brothers thank you very much!
I really quite like this one! I think I'm going to steal this technique for my Ultramarines; I just don't have the brush control for all the highlighting right now, and this seems to do the trick.
How did you get on with this blue on your ultramarines?
I'm thinking of doing the same!
Love the colors. What color will you advise to paint leather? I normal use rinox hide but it's getting to dark.
For the leather on this dude I used a couple of coats of Eshin Grey. I like Dryad Bark for brown leather, usually with an Agrax Earthshade and then Doombull Brown on the edges for a nice dark red leather appearance.
Can you do the raptors chapter next?? Great video!!
Raptors are one that'll take a little while to get to, but if it helps, I'd paint the armour in exactly the same method but using the following paints instead: Death Guard Green, Underhive Ash drybrush, then shade with Athonian Camoshade. Works a treat!
You rock! Thanks man! Is there a way I can send you some minis if you need? (Space marines or whatever)
Great video! Nice, simple techniques that produce great results. What sorcery is that GW paint pot holder on your desk??
One of these: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3194871 They're dead useful! I've got a couple printed out and they're good mostly for keeping shade pots open while I'm working.
Do you have any tips for using those larger base brushes? Any time I've tried to use'em, I always end up with too much paint clogging up all the nooks and crannies.
It might sound like I'm being trite or dismissive, but honestly? Just use less paint. You'll find a palette becomes invaluable for when you're using the bigger brushes; you can swipe your brush across a smooth surface and get an idea of how much paint you're going to leave behind. If you're blobbing off huge great wet patches, rinse your brush off, squeeze out the majority of the water and go back to your little puddle of thinned paint to get something fresh and try the same again, then go to your model.
Oh not at all! I'm still very much a beginner, so any advice is greatly appreciated!
I'm betting you're right, since I use a wet palette, maybe I should lay down a piece of paper so I can get a better idea of what I'll leave behind without over thinning my paint.
Thanks a ton! Your videos have been invaluable, keep up the great work!
Can you make a video tutorial on how to design costum shoulder pad?
I'm honestly not sure how to do screen recording, so it'd not be very interesting! If it helps, it's actually super simple - just take a look at the documentation for Windows' built-in 3D Builder program. It's super easy to use. :D
What color did you use for the helmet lenses? Also, the gold looks a bit "colder" than Retributor Gold. Is that Liberator Gold?
Just a little dot of Bloodletter in each lens since they're already primed white. Nice and quick! The gold actually is Retributor Gold, just without any shading on it - the only shade around it is Nuln Oil where the blade meets the gold. Really quick if you've not got a lot of gold areas you need to pick out details on.
What do you use to hold the heads? Is that just some form of needle or something?
It's just a little bit of brass rod. You can use anything stiff and solid; even paperclips make for good 'stands' if you're painting heads separately.
Looks great! Very good job :) Do you have any experience as to how GW handles custom printed bits and or third party bits included on models? So are they ok with brining them to a GW store?
As with any good question, there's not really a single answer to this. I've never heard of store managers or staff having an issue with things like shoulder pads and helmets, for example, since they're enhancements to a kit that they already sell. If you turn up with a Deathwatch squad carrying four 3D printed frag cannons they might get a little tetchy, but the easiest thing to do is just to ask. If they've really got a problem with printed shoulder pads I'd be super surprised, though.
Sonic Sledgehammer Studio I would make sure it is painted too. A painted home made frag cannon is les suspicious than a bright shiny 3d printed orange one....
Can you please do world eaters? :)
Will those shoulder pads work on any space marine model?
Anything with the standard size shoulder pad. So you'd probably want a different shape for something like Aggressors, but almost any power armour should look fine with them.
My hoeth blue does not look like this at all. Mine is much more desaturated... What's the deal??? It's brand new too.
I honestly couldn't tell you? Could be that it's a weird pot, or simply the difference between a camera under lights and real life.
Hi, I really love these painting method, I’m going to give it a go! 👍 One question, when spraying did you cover up the bolster and blade? Or just spray them too? Cheers 🍻
I just sprayed them all with the same primer. Black and metallics tend to cover pretty well, so it doesn't matter much if it's not quite the right colour underneath, it won't show through. :D
Sonic Sledgehammer Studio ahh sorry, I meant spraying the varnish/ardcoat. I should have been clearer sorry! 👍
Is that insignia a custom made shoulder pad?
What brand printer are you using for the pads? That print looks really good.
It's an Elegoo Mars. I'm planning on doing an actual review video on it at some point. It's been a really good little machine!
Not bad my friend. But can you do yellow?
Emperors Spears aka Winters Seo's chapter
Hardly Working poor chap forever mistaken now
why doesn't anyone paint these in the darkish metal blue they look like in the artwork? Just curios, i think i prefer that from this light blue
Where did you get your paint holder from?
One of my favourite little widgets I've found and printed so far! www.thingiverse.com/thing:3194871
Could you paint a space marine in a guardsmen paint scheme
What is a 'Guardsman' paint scheme? Brown and green?
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio yeah pretty much thanks
amazing man how do you get the finish without so much blotchy spots and tide marks its insane what you've acheived? the best tutorial and outcome ive seen from your channel and i watch all your vids man so excellent job
The big trick really is in the varnish before the shade. It keeps the shade from 'sticking' and giving you those ugly tide marks and blotches, I tend to find. Great if you're doing something with large flat areas like a Space Marine!
How I paint things howling griffons please