Another Blown Up Briggs & Stratton Engine Teardown!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ก.ค. 2024
- Another Blown Up Briggs & Stratton Engine Teardown!
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Ya sea un motor manual de dos tiempos y dos ciclos como una motosierra, un desmalezador, un desmalezador, una cortadora de hilo, una cortadora de césped, una cortadora de hilo, una cortadora de setos, una podadora, una desbrozadora, un soplador de hojas o unidades de cuatro tiempos y cuatro ciclos como una cortadora de césped, una cortadora de leña, un tractor cortacésped, una cortadora de césped de giro cero, una sopladora de nieve, una lavadora a presión, un generador o una cortadora de césped que necesita que se instalen o reemplacen piezas, soy su persona indicada.
He sido mecánico de motores pequeños durante muchas décadas y también dirijo mi propio taller de reparación, por lo que mis videos están repletos de consejos y trucos que he aprendido y quiero compartir con ustedes. También encontrará muchas revisiones de herramientas y productos de las mejores marcas en mi canal.
#donyboy73 #howto #briggsandstratton - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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➡Lawn Tractor Easy Engine Oil Leak Fix!
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As soon as I saw the fine shavings, I knew the crank was toast. Donny, you have to do the rebuild video using spare parts. That would be great. Long, but great.
Agree, would be a great video.
It would be great to see you do a rebuild using parts from different engines if you have the time. It’s been a while I think
Yes, I agree.
Please do Dannyboy
Absolutely would watch a rebuild video!
I believed that we all did that - assembled stuff with whatever parts at hand.
Thank you, Don. I would save every piece that is not broken or destroyed!
Thank you Don for sharing your very educational videos. Not everyone knows about internal combustion engines. You are a fantastic teacher, thanks.
The BEST small engine resource on TH-cam. I've learned so much from your channel over the years, Don!
Glad to hear that!
A Friday morning treat with Dony taking us through a blown engine. It's always a pleasure to watch a real professional show us what happens to engines that were most likely not taken care of with recommended oil changes.
Thank you Dony gor sharing your profession with us. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
It would be awesome to watch you make a fully running engine with the two motors.
More to come!
@@donyboy73
That sounds great Dony.
I would love to see how you organize your salvaged parts.
You Should have your Own Show on Tv I would watch it every day I Learned alot from watching Your Small Engine Repair Vidoes :)
thanks , i didn't know these were more prone to blowing . missing the venerable briggs flathead more everyday .
I have the Briggs opposed twin in my Columbia tractor, great engine and great sound too…
I retired 3 years ago and started messing with riding mowers for the most part. Out of about 40 'won't run don't know why' 3 were blown 19 hp single cylinder Briggs. 2 sellers said they were 'mowing the side of the hill and it just quit!' I never got the story on the third engine. My advice is 'Keep um level and full of oil!'
That's what happened to me yesterday.
Hi Donny. This video also shows that even though it has an oil filter its not full pressure lubrication. Only the lower journal. Lots of buyers thinks that these engines are better for mowing on steep hills…. It doesn’t make any different
Great point. No oil pump in there.
Looks like the rod journal gets pressure lubrication as you can see the oil hole. If it's got a filter it probably has a pump. The manual shows the recommended grades to mow on.
Thank you for the time to explain just about everything that could go wrong and how to combat the problems that could arise. I wish I had someone like you near me for any problems that may arise. God bless you and yours.
Don
Lost a B&S 28N707 this way on my 1995 Craftsman lawn tractor in 2005. Put a hole in the block too. Not sure how many hours it had on it (no hour meter at that time) but I maintained it and had recently replaced the head gasket (I still have the engine). The new replacement engine (same engine) has been on it since then and now has 375 hours on it. I completely rebuilt the tractor in 2020 with a replacement frame (old frame was cracked - I bought a non running, no engine parts tractor that had a good frame). Also had to open the Hydro-Gear (310-500) to replace the output shaft seals (what a pain). These days I usually use the tractor 10-20 hours per year and change the oil (Castrol HD30) at the beginning of every season.
Paul (in MA)
Great insight on what parts to salvage and what to scrap. I would like to see the 2:1 rebuild on these two engines. Thanks for the video!
Great Job!!! It Will Be Interesting To See You Rebuild An Engine With All Your Useable Parts!!!
Dony I can’t tell you how much you’ve helped me and how much money I have saved with all your videos!! Keep it up my man! Your much appreciated!
I've got an older lawn tractor with a 20 hp Briggs. Recently, I did have to change the head gasket but, other than that, it's been a great engine.
Oil: I like full synthetic 10W-30 on small air cooled engines. On my Harley's I run full synthetic 20W-50 in all 3 holes. Never an issue (so far). I also change oils probably more often than needed. Oil is cheap. Engines aren't.
but semi synthetic gives you both worlds and may last longer
Have repaired crankshafts like that before a machinist told me to cover the crank journal with muriatic acid and it will eat all of that aluminum off. I did this and the crank looked like brand new .You must oil it up right away so it doesn't rust. Try it nothing to lose. Use an oil jug with one side cut out it.
dont even need to use acid, just turn it to get rid of aluminum smear, and then do like they do i pakistan weld the journal with some good rod and get tool machine guy to return it , no problems , it works i wouldnt throw them away.
Very informative video. Your knowledge is enviable. I'm glad you save useful parts for reuse. It appeals to my sense of thrift that you can make a useful engine out of two broken engines.
I know others have probably already said it, but I would love to see a video of the rebuild of the "frankenstein" Briggs. I have done it in the past, but I would like to get your take on what to look for and what to ignore. Another great video! Thanks from NB!
Great suggestion!
In my Onan days when we were still designing engines we called that reciprocating balancer the flying brick.
HD30 oil is the way to go. Personally I started using 15W-40 diesel oil in my lawn tractors after reading about a lot of landscaping companies using this oil in their equipment, especially in hot climates in the southern states. It's been working for me just fine so far. You will see (and I have also experienced) higher oil consumption using a 5w-30 or 10w-30 motor oil, and I am convinced that this excessive oil use leads to a lot of failed engines due to oil starvation because the users fail to check the oil often enough, leading to damage like we saw in this video.
I finally found the Castrol HD30 motor oil but it was hard to find in a retail store. I finally located 2 quarts at my local NAPA and paid $11.99 a quart. The salesman at the counter tried to sell me NAPA oil but I told him my small engine guru (Dony) on TH-cam recommended the Castrol and I would give it a shot. Just a heads up to other followers that this oil is not easily found and you might have to go online for purchase.
@@Fresh-tw7ev farm stores are another good place to get this oil, usually a better deal by the gallon.
Taryl Dactal always uses the hammer and pry bar method to remove the flywheel on an engine whether it's good or not !
Not with magnets. I don't think I've seen Taryl do that on that type. I sort of remember him warning against it. I could be wrong. It's a stupid idea anyway.
That's why you're the teacher thanks again
Clearly superb channel for lawnmower and small engine repairs. A go-to channel for sure!
I always enjoy a good ole engine autopsy. Thanks Don!
Another great instructional video. You explain every step very well! Thanks.
Excellent video! I learn from and enjoy all your engine repair videos. Thanks,
At 4:03, the stamped steel heat shield that is being removed has a story. YT channel "Smarter Every Day" has a video called "The Mind-Blowing Machines that Stamp Millions of Metal Parts" That exact part is being manufactured in the video. It's an hour video but very interesting.
i saw that video recently, very interesting, the progressive dies were great to see.
Thank You for Sharing
The old American made B and S motors were the best.. my Motor is 30 years old , and still working.
I love it, "it's always hard to get the truth from the owners"... :)
Good video thanks for sharing
Awesome job as always 👏
Probably caused by the needle and seat in the carb if it had a Walbro carb or rotten O rings in the Nikki carbs. Gas flooded the block and they ran it like that. They changed the oil a bit to late. Looks awfully clean in the block. Head gasket is blown as well. The 17.5-21hp Inteks really like to blow head gaskets.
The older 14.5-15.5hp inteks can take alot of abuse. I ran a 14.5hp Intek with the governor removed in my old Mud mower for quite a few years. Foot throttle and a Mikuni clone carb.
Thank you for the video
Now that's a lotta damage!
And quite a few good parts to squirrel away!
Thanks DB
Good video !! Cleaned aluminum brings a good price at the junk yards. We used to have 55 gallon barrels that we'd fill with recycle stuff.
Good video , thanks. 20-40 oil works well.
Great video 👍
@ 12:45 shows head gasket is blown.The discoloration on the aluminum push rod(intake) is a rub mark from a rubber guide that is from dirty oil.Good tutorial Don!
These Briggs and Stratton Single Cylinder engines are Incredibly reliable if taken care of properly. Unfortunetly most people forget to change the oil and filter every 50 Hours and they Never Adjust the valves. The ones with full pressue lubrication and the oil filter tend to last a while longer as long as the oil is changed frequently and valves are adjusted. Sometimes the seats in the carbs on the older ones leak and they can get gas into the oil causing the rod to go like this one, people dont usually check the oil every time they use it. The valve lash does tend to go out of Adjustment on these motors which can lead to other problems when not adjusted. Head gaskets are the only other issues these engines are known for having
I agree definitely looks rebuildable.
But you need a camshaft as well, since the one from this engine, runs the oil pump.
I've had to Kawasaki Engines that were blown in my career, both shattered the balancer but the blocks were savable.
Love to see the rebuild
Good video donnie..
Thanks Dony for the tip on the HD oil. I finally found the Castrol HD30 motor oil but it was hard to find in a retail store. I finally located 2 quarts at my local NAPA and paid $11.99 a quart. The salesman at the counter tried to sell me NAPA oil but I told him my small engine guru (Dony) on TH-cam recommended the Castrol and I would give it a shot. Just a heads up to other followers that this oil is not easily found and you might have to go online for purchase.
Great video once again.
I have an opposed twin Briggs in the shop now. Even though the mower has been sitting for some time, the engine, with a little cleanup runs great. The one thing I don't like is there is no oil filter. The engine is a turbo cooled model. I know the theory is being turbo cooled reduces heat, thus wear and cooler oil temps, but to me, that means the user will think fewer oil changes.
There's no oil filter because there's no oil pump so no oil pressure. There are a very small amount of those opposed twins that do have an oil pump and filter, but most of them are just splash lubricated. They thrive on abuse and neglect, except the 20.5HP, those are junk, they'll throw a rod every time if you start them up in the cold.
Nice video as usual
Wow that one ran for awhile !
I had a D120? with a 21 hp B n G engine that seized. I took it apart and found a steel cup about 1/2" - 5/8" in diameter that had been bouncing around in the crank case. It jammed itself between a counter weight on the crank and part of the block. After prying it out everything rotated just fine. I had already ordered a new engine so installed that, but I'm pretty sure the old one would have run if I had put it back together. My neighbour worked on the BIG JD tractors. He came over and took a look. Neither of us could identify where that steel cup may have come from.
Don, it’s sad the the single cylinder Briggs engines are as weak as they are. I just had my 21 HP single fail due to the compression release on the CAM fail. I bought an OEM Briggs kit and rebuilt it. Sadly after a careful inspection and rebuild it ran or about an hour 😬. I installed it new approximately 10 years ago and I am religious with oil changes using on 30w oil as I don’t use it in the cold weather. BYW, why is 30w oil getting so difficult to purchase? All the Briggs owners manuals clearly recommend using it in warmer weather. Thanks for another great video 👍👍👍👍👍
Great Vid, how many people are dishonest when it comes to blown engines to be repaired?
I would watch the crap out of you building a new engine from those spare parts! Please do that on video!
Watching a rebuild would be fun!
👍👍👍.Thanks
Cool that ya can make one from the 2!
I had a 24HP Briggs and Stratton from a Sears blow up at around 300 hours. I would change oil every spring and fall around 30 to 40 hours. Tractor was used year round. Used 5W30 Synthetic oil for past 6 or so years. Conventional oil used first 6 or so years. Connecting rod broke in half. Replaced with a 25HP Briggs and Stratton. Sure hope this one gets a lot more use before blowing up.
Had a Kawasaki FR691V that was pooched in my shop last month (850 hours).
Rebuilt it and running great for customer.
I would love to watch a total rebuild on a small engine!!!
Thank you for the great video! Looks like overspeeding may have caused this..
I just swapped a 17.5 horse version of this engine used on my zero turn in place of the v-twin to help with fuel consumption. The v-twin was blowing oil past the rings and I could not find a rebuild kit anywhere. Just individual pieces and expensive too. It's only a 48" deck and the single is more than enough power. I use way less fuel now but I've already had problems with this engine. It blew a head gasket and wouldn't start, I think because it was filling the cylinder with oil and trying to hydrolock. Burned up a starter because of that. Got it all back together fairly quickly and cheaply with a new head gasket, but I noticed that chasm they engineered between the lifter valley and the cylinder with no head bolt. They should have a head bolt there because the distance between the other two head bolts guarantees you'll see head distortion in that spot. That seems to be where they always blow from what I've read, and that's where mine blew too. I've also noticed that these things really don't like being shut off hot. If I don't idle down and let it sit on that rich idle circuit for a good minute, it'll run-on and kick back when you shut it off (sheared a timing key that way). It also won't want to start after that. Let it idle for a bit and it doesn't do that. Timing key, coil gap were checked and they are perfect. Cylinder walls were spotless too, and there wasn't significant carbon buildup in there, so that's the only thing I can think is that it's just overheating under normal use. I'm wondering if that's why they throw rods. Between the head gasket issue trying to hydrolock the engine and the inadequate cooling trying to seize the piston in the bore it just beats the heck out of that rod and rod bearing. In case you didn't notice, I'm not a big fan of this engine and I'm about to swear off of Briggs altogether because of my experience with both engines. That v-twin only had 700 hours on it and was meticulously maintained by the previous owner.
Owner states "I didn't see the oil light come on"😏
I got the same engine. I hear the enginer rev up. It could be my governor broken. Piston move up and down same the valves open and closes. Im having trouble to remove the pulley. Just need external pulley puller. Update as of 2-21-24 the counter weight metal part are damages. The cam shaft isn’t damage with still had the decompression spring. Crankshaft and connecting rod still on. Update 4-19-24. Crankshaft is warped on one side. Intake push rod bented. Flywheel lost one electric block. Engine is totaled. Camshaft with decompression spring, Exhaust push rod, Starter, Voltage Reg with Stator, flywheel key still good, Oil dipstick and tube, Vaccum pump, and Carb. All will be kept for spare parts.
A good way to learn about engine repair would be to see you make one good engine out of two…
Good video Donny!
Good job brother 👍
I have had a sears 17.5 briggs riding mower for 13 years, with over 500 hrs on it. Only problems I have had was with a surging carburetor, which took two years to get right. I use synthetic 5w30 oil, and change it every year. I clean air filter out after every usage and it runs like a champ. I guess I got lucky.
What was causing your surging problem?
I can’t believe how clean it was under the flywheel
Maybe you should make a video of building an engine from scrapped parts?
How do you store the bolts do you sort them to know for future uses?
I thought the same. And no one likes leftover pocket parts. You know the ones you haven't used and you just put them in your pants pocket. LOL
Great show Don! Questions for the make 1 engine from 2 broken engines: Is the connecting rod an especially fragile part in the B&S engines? Or do they have a predictable fatigue cycle count before grenading? Are heavier duty aftermarket forged "racing" rods available? Thanks again! Paul
Gotta tell ya Dony and hoping you'll agree: Lots of these problems appear to be caused by blocked cooling fins...clogged flywheel fan...lack of proper oil changes with quality oil...over-revving. I say that because I have a pair of Craftsman 42" lawn tractors and both have this identical engine and each have approx. 500 hours run time as per the dash mounted hour meter...and both still run like new. Always thought they were very decent engines.
Can you show us how the oil pump and filter works on these engines?
Good day Don. Boy interesting video. I think u said the oil flinger, it has filter on would that not have oil pump;
I live down here by Elmira neighbours have norse & buggy, I was giver a 14.5 inteck & I think conn rd is gone.
Thanks
20w50 is also good in the summer if you can still find it
with the cam. decompression broken would the eng. turn over if you eliminated the spark while cranking over ?
How do you remove the connecting rod from the counter weights.
This engine looks just like a 20 HP B&S my son gave me this spring. except the one I got wouldn't turn over and the owner didn't put any oil in it after it stop running. I was surprised, where did the oil go I never payed much attention to anything as I tore it down. of course the rod was in pieces the cam shaft compression release was broken but other than that things looked good but odd as to why it ran out of oil? anyway I bought a new rod and camshaft honed the cylinder cleaned the rod journal with muriatic acid and sand paper. all looked good put it together it run like a champ for abut 10 hours and all of a sudden it started smoking terrible. I looked on youtube and sure enough this is the head gasket problem. such a distance between the 2 head bolts on the valve side of the engine. Anyway I sanded down the head and the block to make sure they were flat. then I got genuine B&S head gasket gave them 3 coats of silver paint on both sides put it together run great for about 2 to 3 hours then O my the engine would not turn over so now a broken compression release. should have bought a briggs cam shaft. any way I would not be afraid to put this engine back together with a new rod and camshaft. You showed a quick view of the head gasket it has the same look as the one out of this engine. when the head gasket blows the exhaust goes right into the crankcase opening for the push rods then out the vent tube to the air filter then right back into the combustion chamber where it burns again then some of it goes right back into the air filter? And I didn't replace the new bad cam shaft I just turn the engine backwards a couple of turns and it starts fine.
Thanks
Do you think the low levels of zinc in modern oil is part of the problem?
Don do you like HD30 oil in B&S twins better than synthetic 10w30 or whatever they specify?
That's a rare one, Dony...an uncracked block with a shattered rod down at the bottom (pretty much where I always see it detonating).
The motors I see with long lives are Kawasakis, Hondas & Kohlers, while Tecumsehs (they still show up from time to time) and the newer 31/32 series Briggs are prone to all kinds of problems, but I remember the old 28 series, especially the horizontals, are fairly strong, and rarely I still see those with points coming through on rotortillers and pumps.
The failures on Kohlers are usually carb related for me (always the afterfire solenoid), and I think maybe twice I remember some bent pushrods (probably heat + customer tomfoolery), those bad starter gears (the rubber clutch pieces) and one that detonated because they ran it out of oil.
I have had a couple of Kawasakis that came thru with some failed coils (twins), which seems way more common now (maybe a bad run of manufacturing not just heat breakdown as you would know), and the dreaded intake valve guide/valve freeze ups from heat and bad oil. Maybe 3 I think the last 3 or so years did I see with dropped valve guides. Always intake it seems. For me at least.
Hondas only ever seem to show up here as horizontals on pressure pumps, or odd stuff...like air compressors. The only problems I ever see with those are poor maintenance (oil), bad gas, and of course...carb trashing. Never do I usually see any actual motor damage.
Last year I had a 1980's Briggs 5hp horizontal come thru with a water pump. The old man that had it said his dad had bought it new, and passed it on. The same old trick you put out here about peening up the valve seats (which I learned it from, which was you) worked for me, but it had wallowed out the intake guide, so I had to order in a new bronze one along with valves, then hand fit it, and do the seats the old way (flathead obviously). Someone had converted it over from points at some time. No telling when.
The point was, I was super careful to explain to him about fuel in those (best you can get, as those carbs don't care for the ethanol stuff, which will ruin those tanks), and keeping up with the oil. He was using it to move 500 gallons of water a day from a stock pond up to a garden, probably up a hill some on a good grade, and I warned him not to run it too hard in our summer weather (like yesterday being 108 degrees F, last year was the same but 115 or so). Sure enough, day after day he ran it (3 weeks) when he had to have run it way too long towards the evening, and he hadn't kept up with the oil, so locked up the crank on the flywheel side bushing and destroyed the block and crank. I couldn't actually tell for certain, but my best guess is he had it on an uneven surface, so the vibration of the balancer, flywheel and impeller finally loosened up some of the bottom sump bolts. And that was that, as they say.
Kind of hurt my feelings to see that.
The point of the story is this- sure enough, he wants me to tear down the old cast iron pump (with the rubber flapper flow-back valve in it), and throw that pump on another motor.
I was like...maybe. But I doubt it.
And sure enough, I was right.
The pump was the style where the impeller mounts to that specific crank shaft, and floats in the manifold of the pump. But it's the old, long, weird shouldered shaft style they don't use anymore. Secondly, and this is my favorite part...
the pump was made in Canada, and when I went to hunt it down, sure enough, they were out of business.
I said, sorry old timer, you are out of luck. But if you want, I will weld that impeller to a 12 horse horizontal or vertical if you can find me one, and do some really unsafe frame design to modify that pump body to fit on there, and buddy, I can make that dude push you 5000 gallons a day. He wasn't up for that. Don't blame him either.
The other part of the story was that even last year...pumps, even the sump pumps that aren't hot rods, are super expensive now, Dony. I mean like...ouch. $400 for some of them that you wouldn't trust to pull out of a basement or swimming pool, much less a pond or for hours on end.
Not much of a story, but that's all I got for now at least.
Everything has died here thanks to the heat run we had the last 3 weeks, so I won't be seeing anymore motors (or mowers, or saws, weedeaters, etc.) until maybe September.
Yeah, Briggs quality went to crap when manufacturing moved to China.
i have a couple of Murray mowers with the 28 series engine, built in 2004, and a couple with the 21 seires OHC.
i recently replaced two blown head gaskets, one (the OHC) head was full of mice nest and hence it blew from overheating.
on the flat head the head bolts were barely finger tight when i renmoved the head.
damn near indestructible, they will be good for another 18 years lol.
@@amandagardner565 The old, low rpm Briggs horizontals are STILL making the rounds, and one of the most requested customer motors I see to this day (go carts or minibikes, I guess).
Have you seen any problems with the counter balancer bearings? I did and it was the cause of a broken rod.
Great video Donny, if you look at time stamp 9:57 just above your left hand looks like a crack !
You probably can save the crankshaft by removing the aluminium deposition on the journal with lye (NaOH). It does not remove steel. 😊
I've seen dirt bike cranks cleaned up and polished by hand using fine wet & dry sandpaper , not something done in a shop but a cheap backyard remedy to get back on the racetrack on the cheap .
@@Gordon_L yes, but you have to be very carefull altering the steel geometry. James Condon uses muriatic acid to remove most alumunium, lye is the other option. Afterwards polishing up with P600 and P800 will do the job quicker and less risk of unroundness of the journal. 😊
compression release damaged the flipper , which then destroyed the rod ?
Hi Don love the Vids
So easy and cheap to change your own oil. My Briggs vtwin says 5W30, 5 quarts of mobil1 is 20 bucks US at Walmart and a napa filter is 5 bucks.
$5/qt.
Is it always the single cilinder B&S engines with an oil pump and oil filter? That fail from the lack of lubrication on the crankshaft/connecting rod?
I've this engine. Still going good..😅...oops haven't changed the oil for a few years...reality is I only use about 20 hrs a year
Hey so my fan broke on my BR 17.5 and i didn't notice till about done w the lawn, I know I overheated the motor. I actually melted the screw holes on the top cover from the mounting screws getting so hot. I changed the oil and it looked clean but the engine ticks louder than it did before. Performance seems the same other than ticking louder. What do you think it might be? Should I keep running it or tear it down to see what is up?
very nice video, whats your opinion on Mobil one oil in these briggs engine? I run extended miles Mobil one.
It's good, I recommend a thick oil like SAE30
Two things I observed over the years as a marine mechanic and a small engine instructor were a poor understanding of the cooling and lubrication systems. Far too many people rely on splash lubrication when they need pressurized lubrication. If you are commercial I also recommend a large oil tank. Also you need to understand your oil pick-up location.
Many of these engines fail for one of these reasons: They do not clean the engine and cause poor heat transfer. They allow the air flow through the engine compartment to be compromised. They disturb the shrouds and attached engine exterior component locations resulting in improper heat exchanges.
Any of these can prevent the engine from obtaining and maintaining its correct temperature and dimensions as the metal heats.
On other Great Teardown Dony😊
The only problem with piecing one of these back together is the chance of another failure due to the weaknesses they have. Are there aftermarket rods available? Nice video!
Totally agree
Maybe the decompression parts attacked the internals
Sounds like a possibility of a rebuild video??