You make some very useful video and you explain them in great detail. Just saying ur hands won t last forever, if u use them on tubing when u press things in. Cheers
There arent many "how to" type videos on youtube for the older land rovers, thought it worth while. After a few years of this sort of work, my hands are quite tough - sometimes you can press a seal in by hand with less risk of damage to it. Appreciate what your saying though. Thanks.
Hi Steamwally, like you this is a job I've been putting off for my Land Rover Series. Thanks very much for the detailed and helpful tips on replacing the seal (though mine is the rover type and SWB land rover; I would think it's a pretty similar process to replace). This has given me the impetus to get on with the job, and this evening I crawled under to clean up the axle housing and see if the axle breathers were doing their job. The front was fine but the rear breather not so.. I ended up replacing this. While doing this I noted the rear drivers side hub seal has a leak and I will need to replace that and the brake drums (sorry to learn that your video footage went awol, and this would been good to watch). I had heard that often the breathers are the cause of blown seals. I don't know if you have cleaned up yours to see they are alright as it would be a right royal pain if the pinion seal were to blow because of that. Happy Rovering
Thanks, I washed out the breather in petrol, it may well have contributed to failure of the seal, its a common cause of half shaft seals failing. Not too bad a job, just awkward working on the ground.
Very useful video, thanks. Would be handy if you could post up part numbers of the replacement diff flange and seal and where you bought them from. Ta.
I'm just doing mine but the mud guard is warped from galvanising and is fouling on the casing. I can get the hub on the full way when the nut starts getting very tight but the guard is then fully stuck. Is yours running true?
What part number kit did you get for your Salisbury. On the diagram I'm confused because it soes a bearing or seal and a mud shield. After being your flange messed up I've decided to get the whole kit, but I don't know which one to get or which part number. Thanks
Hi all. LR newbie here. What tool is recommended for the square drive sump plugs on the diff? It looks almost like 1/2" but I've not been able to get a typical extension into it.
That's unusual! I did encounter this problem with my MGB and made a suitable tool which went in the car's tool kit - can't remember what size it was but it was nothing standard. You used to be able to get a special spanner for such occasions with a multitude of different size square drives on it, search for a "sump plug key" and you'll find such a thing.
Thanks for the reply. Can I ask how the mud flaps are fitted please and if those you purchased come with the necessary brackets to install them? They look the part.
The rear mud flaps just bolt to the cross member. You will need to drill holes for them. For the fronts you fix them between one of the sill bolts and wing support brackets. It will become obvious when you have them, brackets included. Cheers
When the pinion nut is tightened down on the crush tube, you have to go to around 250 foot pounds, sometimes much more, to get the right pre-load. Don't think many have a torque wrench big enough for that...
Very helpful video thanks, I'm just about to do mine but thankfully have the luxury of the axle being off the vehicle in the garage
I tacked a length of welding rod to an old pair of mole grips and used your lump of brass idea to slide up the rod - nice trick - thanks!
Great video, very helpful for me changing the seal on my reliant scimitar; also equipped with a Salisbury axle!
Thanks - another helpful vid - I need to do mine rather than looking for the correct slope to park on!
You make some very useful video and you explain them in great detail.
Just saying ur hands won t last forever, if u use them on tubing when u press things in.
Cheers
There arent many "how to" type videos on youtube for the older land rovers, thought it worth while. After a few years of this sort of work, my hands are quite tough - sometimes you can press a seal in by hand with less risk of damage to it. Appreciate what your saying though. Thanks.
"If there ain't oil under it, there ain't oil in it." 😂👌👌
Hi Steamwally, like you this is a job I've been putting off for my Land Rover Series. Thanks very much for the detailed and helpful tips on replacing the seal (though mine is the rover type and SWB land rover; I would think it's a pretty similar process to replace). This has given me the impetus to get on with the job, and this evening I crawled under to clean up the axle housing and see if the axle breathers were doing their job. The front was fine but the rear breather not so.. I ended up replacing this. While doing this I noted the rear drivers side hub seal has a leak and I will need to replace that and the brake drums (sorry to learn that your video footage went awol, and this would been good to watch). I had heard that often the breathers are the cause of blown seals. I don't know if you have cleaned up yours to see they are alright as it would be a right royal pain if the pinion seal were to blow because of that.
Happy Rovering
Thanks, I washed out the breather in petrol, it may well have contributed to failure of the seal, its a common cause of half shaft seals failing. Not too bad a job, just awkward working on the ground.
Very helpful
If you're doing the pinion bearings as well, I found that the outer pinion bearing race is just the right size for fitting the pinion seal.
Very useful video, thanks. Would be handy if you could post up part numbers of the replacement diff flange and seal and where you bought them from. Ta.
thanks, the part number I don't know, just went by model year and type of axle. this is an improved later type of seal kit, but fits the older axle.
I'm just doing mine but the mud guard is warped from galvanising and is fouling on the casing. I can get the hub on the full way when the nut starts getting very tight but the guard is then fully stuck. Is yours running true?
Very helpful, doing mine in a few weeks, cheers !!
no problem, just watch out for that crush tube on the input pinion.
+steamwally owe you a pint! Finally got round to replacing mine and your tips were especially useful, cheers!
What part number kit did you get for your Salisbury. On the diagram I'm confused because it soes a bearing or seal and a mud shield. After being your flange messed up I've decided to get the whole kit, but I don't know which one to get or which part number. Thanks
Hi all. LR newbie here. What tool is recommended for the square drive sump plugs on the diff? It looks almost like 1/2" but I've not been able to get a typical extension into it.
That's unusual! I did encounter this problem with my MGB and made a suitable tool which went in the car's tool kit - can't remember what size it was but it was nothing standard. You used to be able to get a special spanner for such occasions with a multitude of different size square drives on it, search for a "sump plug key" and you'll find such a thing.
Thanks for the reply. Can I ask how the mud flaps are fitted please and if those you purchased come with the necessary brackets to install them? They look the part.
The rear mud flaps just bolt to the cross member. You will need to drill holes for them. For the fronts you fix them between one of the sill bolts and wing support brackets. It will become obvious when you have them, brackets included.
Cheers
What is the part number of seal ?
Ah great. That sounds easy enough. Cheers
Currently trying to loose the pinion nut and it is so annoying. hahaha
I was a bit ignorant and squeeze in a large screwdriver
👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
Use a torque wrench to check the torque of the pinion nut before removing it so you know the exact tightness when you put it back together.
When the pinion nut is tightened down on the crush tube, you have to go to around 250 foot pounds, sometimes much more, to get the right pre-load. Don't think many have a torque wrench big enough for that...
true enough, but probably one that is 3/4" or 1" drive head with a handle that's around two feet long