Great video. Just what I was looking for! I'll be doing a very similar install in the next couple of weeks and it's always good to see the types of things I'll be running into. I especially appreciate that you don't gloss over things like "where is this cable going to run" and "here's why we chose to put this specific piece in this specific place". All the best!
Absolutely perfect. I'll be tackling this job soon and this video is exactly what I was looking for to give me a better idea of what is involved. Great hearing the two of you discussing things through. Cheers!
great video as always. im getting ready to install a lewmar v700 or 1000 on my boat next week. just like on this boat the chain locker is very small and will not accommodate the motor. the way you installed it gave my plenty of fresh ideas. thanks for sharing your videos. they are always great.
Looking at adding an anchor windlass and a capstan for trapbhauling. Your video gives plenty of info to help me draw the plan and source the parts. Thanks for all your videos!
Just a suggestion, but when you get back on the boat, take some blue Loctite or equivalent. You want the low or medium strength stuff. Take each screw out of the deck unit , cover the top 3-5mm of the threads in Loctite and refit. The Loctite will stop the salt water wicking down the thread because there is no gap to wick down. No water down the threads, no corrosion. Makes life a lot easier in the future. Works on outboards as well.
Interesting tip on using the Loctite Ron. Dave was being his usual facetious self and in fact filled all the holes with Sikaflex before putting the bolts through, but I still appreciate the tip!
Learnt some more boating lingo with this one mate.My favourite was when you said the "Deck Head",We have a few of them at work but they don't look like that.lol. Keep up the good work mate.
Hi mate, glad you enjoyed the video despite not doing the job in the foreseeable future. I feel the same way about learning things, there are always tips you can apply in other situations.
Dave may wish to consider as an alternative to foot switches, which we found not be be reliable is a hand held switch that can be plugged in on the deck. The other alternative is to configure a wireless remote control, which can be configured for very little. The advantage of this method is it can be operated from anywhere on the boat.
If you're looking for longer lengths (low loss) of battery cable, try "welding cable".. The insulation is thick heatproof and very flexible, use coloured heat shrink on the crimp ends to identify + & -.... I enjoy your vids, thanks..
Great video and really interesting to see the planning and problem solving side of things. The next owners might appreciate some red heat shrink on the positive cables but otherwise loved it.
Thanks, and yes, agree about the heatshrink. There were actually some rubber boots supplied that Dave was going to put on later, they just didn't make it into the vid.
Very helpful guys, I'm shopping around right now, and considering I have an open bow, I can build specifically to specs to accommodate this unit if I decide to go that route. By the way, after almost four years, how is it operating? Any afterthoughts? Cheers...
Even if the deck is ply cored I would have wanted a backing plate. Remember you can always put a battery in the bow and then you can use cheaper shorter high amp cables. You then just need to run charging cables to the bow.
Yep, it's all good.. busy as usual, travelling around between KL, Singapore and Beijing. Still trying to work out when I can visit, my annual leave allowance is really tight in Asia. :(
Great video! Definitely need a bit of flare at the end of the bow roller or just wider to smooth out the transition of the anchor coming over. But great job
Hello I'm french Then sorry for my english which is very bad Thank you for all your videos.im looking for a workshop manual for a honda bf 115 after 2007 I found that 2 anodes on the motor...Thank you for your answer And continue your videos it's great
Well done guys . Just a question what protection to the top of your deck, where the chain passes over is necessary ( this will surely chaff the deck) thanks
Good question. This is Dave's boat and I can't quite remember but I would expect some sort of stainless plate or roller would be required everywhere contact is made.
Did you spin the motor 180 degrees later to hide the head combs? I think that would also make it look neater and may be a bit safer in heavy seas. A 90A CB would typically be protecting a 30-40 circuit, but that heavy wiring is still needed, if the anchor gets caught and stalls that motor, the instant current would jump to close to 90A in worst case .. Interesting the amount of measuring you did :-)
Hi Ron. There was a reason we couldn't rotate it the other way, but I can't recall what it hit. It may be work making a few modifications to the shelf or the bulkhead to be able to spin it around, I'll chat with Dave about it when he gets back. It was a bit of a rush job for a trip.
So, in use, at anchor, you have a thin bit of string to take the strain of the ground tackle and stop it breaking the windlass out of the deck. I think I missed something, should you not have a proper snubbing strop attached to one deck cleat, and the chain attached to the other deck cleat [which also looks undersized btw??
Having a thin line take up the tension provides some shock absorption due it's stretch. As well as reducing shock loading on fittings it also makes it more comfortable when sleeping at anchor.
It's been decades since we could have a beer on a boat and not get boarded by CG, Sheriff, etc. In a car they need a reason to check things out, on a boat, no reason necessary. When I say Australia is 40 years behind the US it is a good thing. There was a time when every mechanic had a beer going at the bench, but, not now, those days are gone.
Yes, boats are still more relaxed than the roads here, but the skipper does still need to be below 0.05 blood alcohol like on the road but you can drink on the boat.
Been thinkin - for the price of bringing the heavy gage cables forward from my full aft engine bay - 30' back I'll just add a dedicated battery in the bow and run a lighter charging cable forward from my aft charging circuits. Any cautions with that approach? Saw you on Brupeg - looks like you were enjoying yourself.
It is a good way to go and pretty common. Heavy cables certainly are expensive. The only issue I’ve heard with that setup is batteries failing because they are in the part of the boat that moves the most as the boat goes through waves.
@@DangarMarine Thanks - will go with something solid state - lithium or glass mat - to mitigate bounce problem. The other thing I like about battery forward is minimal voltage drop from battery to windlass. Again Thanks. You took the hole in the roof fear away. This project now on my agenda. any suggestions on sourcing the windlass? I have a dealer certificate.
i've started having problems with my V1. Its tripping the circuit breaker and not bringing the anchor up. Wonder if you've had any issues since installing? (also can't believe that's 4 out of 4 problems i've had you've done a video on. hhaha
awesome! and thanks for the reply....i lived in Oz back in the 70's...and i missed that sound...imagine that!. Aside from that...any experience with drum windlass?
Great video, I've watched the others and they are good too. We are considering putting a windlass on our boat and was wondering if your windlass will retrieve rope or does your whole anchor line need to be chain? Thanks Mike
Thats chain only, the rope ones have a secondary smooth drum for rope. Too be honest though with a windlass rope isn't neccesary and all chain is best and a more effective anchor. A nylon rope strop is used to connect to chain once anchor is deployed to provide buffering though. Bit like seen here but needs to be long enough to go over bow roller to work effectively.
Ha Aussies! You just know that the relay is still sitting loose on the shelf and so far only 12.6 victims have head wounds or foot lacerations from late night attempts to sleep in the vee Bert. 😂😂😂😂
You can open it by either pull the anchor on deck, or putting the hook on it and letting out some slack. In general use though there is no longer a need to open the hatch other than for maintenance.
Very nice work. Not meaning to criticize, but at 4:40 in the video, was a bit uncomfortable seeing you in the line of falling debris without safety squints. Otherwise, it looked like a fun time seeing a project come together.
stu had a thought couldnt you have bought a set of heavy duty jumper cables and used that .i use that on a 200amp welder for leads and they only cost £15 and they were 4 meters long
I have heard that welder leads can be a great way to go, other than they are not tinned so possibly not great in a marine environment in the long term. Dave bought this cable before we met up to do the install so I didn't get much say in it, but there certainly would be cheaper options I would imagine.
How does one open the chain locker hatch with an anchor chain across it. The installation is not appropriate for this very old and worn out boat. Better investing in a new v berth hatch as it is so crazed.
My comment was probably a little harsh as the methodology you were attempting to demonstrate was valid. From a practical point of view Note: 1) The Amp rating of a cable is of secondary importance when sizing a cable as it is the voltage drop that is the critical factor. 2) When fitting a windlass it is a very good idea to mount a dedicated battery close to the windlass. This will reduce the cable sizes and simplify the overall wiring.
At 4:20ish the center of the hole is an inch; I wish you’d make up your mind liters or litres Thanx from the left coast near the Krapitol of California
Winch mounting with no backing plate top or bottom?? Not on my boat. You could use a split one for the bottom. Load bearing fittings all should be backed with something much more than washers for a good installation. Since this would be subject to shock loads as the boat rolls and pitches or comes up short when setting plates should be used.
@@78vette51 I guess you would have to go out and do it to know. Nobody puts anchor chain on pots! Anchors are also subject to shock loads. Again you have to have some experience. That catanary action can eventually get overcome in weather current etc. I have seen all chain rode on a 400'+ ship stretched bow string tight. On a 36' in a blow the Danforth anchor came up looking like a cork screw! One foot of chain on any serious anchor rode is ridiculous. Even my 17' carries 30 ' of 3/8 before the nylon line! Shock load is a fact of life on a vessel.
If I was that intent on a vertical windlass I would have cut an access port in the V-berth, sealed the deck hatch shut and mounted on the deck hatch. Then put doors or a curtain over the access port in the v-berth. That was totally HACKED there and added NOTHING to the boat value. In fact because of the labor costs involved with fixing that it in fact detracted value from the boat.
Great video. Just what I was looking for! I'll be doing a very similar install in the next couple of weeks and it's always good to see the types of things I'll be running into. I especially appreciate that you don't gloss over things like "where is this cable going to run" and "here's why we chose to put this specific piece in this specific place". All the best!
Thanks Alan, good luck with your install. :)
You guys REALLY give the old saying "measure twice, cut once" a whole new depth! 😀
Great video..it really helped a bunch! Keep it up the great work!
Absolutely perfect. I'll be tackling this job soon and this video is exactly what I was looking for to give me a better idea of what is involved. Great hearing the two of you discussing things through. Cheers!
Thanks Mark, glad the vid helped.
great video as always. im getting ready to install a lewmar v700 or 1000 on my boat next week. just like on this boat the chain locker is very small and will not accommodate the motor. the way you installed it gave my plenty of fresh ideas. thanks for sharing your videos. they are always great.
Thanks Nathan, good luck with your install. Nothing is ever straightforward!
Looking at adding an anchor windlass and a capstan for trapbhauling. Your video gives plenty of info to help me draw the plan and source the parts. Thanks for all your videos!
You're welcome Mike, glad the vid helped.
Stu, you are a great value to the boat community in Australia and also to the world =)
Just a suggestion, but when you get back on the boat, take some blue Loctite or equivalent. You want the low or medium strength stuff. Take each screw out of the deck unit , cover the top 3-5mm of the threads in Loctite and refit. The Loctite will stop the salt water wicking down the thread because there is no gap to wick down. No water down the threads, no corrosion. Makes life a lot easier in the future. Works on outboards as well.
Interesting tip on using the Loctite Ron. Dave was being his usual facetious self and in fact filled all the holes with Sikaflex before putting the bolts through, but I still appreciate the tip!
Learnt some more boating lingo with this one mate.My favourite was when you said the "Deck Head",We have a few of them at work but they don't look like that.lol. Keep up the good work mate.
Ha, yes, it's one of those terms that an accent can make go very wrong! ;)
Not a job I can envisage be doing, however, watched it four times and learnt a lot.ThanksGogs.
Hi mate, glad you enjoyed the video despite not doing the job in the foreseeable future. I feel the same way about learning things, there are always tips you can apply in other situations.
Nice work Dave and Stu,I personally might be inclined to fit a water proof second control foot switch (in parallel),close to the chain locker.
Dave is sitting opposite me now and says that he does plan to add that option but it cost an extra $100 he didn't have at the time. :)
Dave may wish to consider as an alternative to foot switches, which we found not be be reliable is a hand held switch that can be plugged in on the deck.
The other alternative is to configure a wireless remote control, which can be configured for very little. The advantage of this method is it can be operated from anywhere on the boat.
I just added a momentary toggle-switch in the chain locker. Cost maybe $20...
great to see a yachting vid Stu..I will show the old man..Cheers
Thanks mate, hoping to do a few more on sailing boat down the track.
Very good guys. And, you kept all wiriing out of the chain locker.
Bravo...
Would not mind a video tour around Dave's boat, it looks amazing! Rob
I'll see what I can organise, but I'd say you've seen just about all of it in this video! ;)
If you're looking for longer lengths (low loss) of battery cable, try "welding cable"..
The insulation is thick heatproof and very flexible, use coloured heat shrink on the crimp ends to identify + & -....
I enjoy your vids, thanks..
Thanks Evan, great tip. :)
always pays to read other comments before commenting
Great video and really interesting to see the planning and problem solving side of things. The next owners might appreciate some red heat shrink on the positive cables but otherwise loved it.
Thanks, and yes, agree about the heatshrink. There were actually some rubber boots supplied that Dave was going to put on later, they just didn't make it into the vid.
Great vid some usefull tips there especially where I've just purchased the same model
Very helpful video, thanks!
Nice work Stu!
Thanks Will. :)
you 2 are great ! mates having fun
stevie from Scotland again
Hey Steve, it always makes a job more fun when you are doing with a mate. :)
Always a learning experience, thanks.
You're welcome, great to hear. :)
Bravo!
Thanks for the websites
it's really cool
I found for the bf 150 as it is the same engine Block
sorry for my English
and thank you very much
You're welcome. :)
You don't show how you terminated the big wires. I found it was a BIG job to solder on the terminals - how did you do it?
Very helpful guys, I'm shopping around right now, and considering I have an open bow, I can build specifically to specs to accommodate this unit if I decide to go that route. By the way, after almost four years, how is it operating? Any afterthoughts? Cheers...
Winch continued to work well. :)
Great work mate!
Thanks Mario.
Even if the deck is ply cored I would have wanted a backing plate. Remember you can always put a battery in the bow and then you can use cheaper shorter high amp cables. You then just need to run charging cables to the bow.
nice detailed and thought out work good video and iam guessing the silicon of choice was t rex from Belgium
Thanks Dave. The sealant was Sikaflex brand from memory, but very, very similar to t-rex.
is that the marine one in the blue tube? i just like the t rex because its thicker and cheaper were i get it anyway.
Happy new year mate! That was a truly greasy shaft. Green too. Shame that anyone sleeping in the stateroom has to share it with a motor? Haha.
Happy New Year! Don't worry, the motor comes off easy enough, thanks to the grease... ;) Hope all are well at home, it's been too long!
Yep, it's all good.. busy as usual, travelling around between KL, Singapore and Beijing. Still trying to work out when I can visit, my annual leave allowance is really tight in Asia. :(
Great video! Definitely need a bit of flare at the end of the bow roller or just wider to smooth out the transition of the anchor coming over. But great job
Hello I'm french
Then sorry for my english which is very bad
Thank you for all your videos.im looking for a workshop manual for a honda bf 115 after 2007
I found that 2 anodes on the motor...Thank you for your answer
And continue your videos it's great
There are two main sites I find manual on. readmanual.com and tradebit.com I'd do a search on those.
Well done guys . Just a question what protection to the top of your deck, where the chain passes over is necessary ( this will surely chaff the deck) thanks
Good question. This is Dave's boat and I can't quite remember but I would expect some sort of stainless plate or roller would be required everywhere contact is made.
another great video. Can you do another clip for the drum winch as well? Happy New year.
If even I get to work on one I will. I might be able to find one to do a servicing and operation video even if it isn't an install.
Did you spin the motor 180 degrees later to hide the head combs? I think that would also make it look neater and may be a bit safer in heavy seas.
A 90A CB would typically be protecting a 30-40 circuit, but that heavy wiring is still needed, if the anchor gets caught and stalls that motor, the instant current would jump to close to 90A in worst case ..
Interesting the amount of measuring you did :-)
Hi Ron. There was a reason we couldn't rotate it the other way, but I can't recall what it hit. It may be work making a few modifications to the shelf or the bulkhead to be able to spin it around, I'll chat with Dave about it when he gets back. It was a bit of a rush job for a trip.
For this winch there is no backing plate? Is that due to the deck being a certain thickness?
Yes, all comes down to the strength of the hull construction.
So, in use, at anchor, you have a thin bit of string to take the strain of the ground tackle and stop it breaking the windlass out of the deck.
I think I missed something, should you not have a proper snubbing strop attached to one deck cleat, and the chain attached to the other deck cleat [which also looks undersized btw??
Having a thin line take up the tension provides some shock absorption due it's stretch. As well as reducing shock loading on fittings it also makes it more comfortable when sleeping at anchor.
It's been decades since we could have a beer on a boat and not get boarded by CG, Sheriff, etc.
In a car they need a reason to check things out, on a boat, no reason necessary.
When I say Australia is 40 years behind the US it is a good thing. There was a time when every mechanic had a beer going at the bench, but, not now, those days are gone.
Yes, boats are still more relaxed than the roads here, but the skipper does still need to be below 0.05 blood alcohol like on the road but you can drink on the boat.
Been thinkin - for the price of bringing the heavy gage cables forward from my full aft engine bay - 30' back I'll just add a dedicated battery in the bow and run a lighter charging cable forward from my aft charging circuits. Any cautions with that approach? Saw you on Brupeg - looks like you were enjoying yourself.
It is a good way to go and pretty common. Heavy cables certainly are expensive. The only issue I’ve heard with that setup is batteries failing because they are in the part of the boat that moves the most as the boat goes through waves.
@@DangarMarine Thanks - will go with something solid state - lithium or glass mat - to mitigate bounce problem. The other thing I like about battery forward is minimal voltage drop from battery to windlass. Again Thanks. You took the hole in the roof fear away. This project now on my agenda. any suggestions on sourcing the windlass? I have a dealer certificate.
great video! what's a windlass like that worth and where would I purchase one?
They start at around $2800 bla.com.au/default/lewmar-vertical-anchor-windlass-1.html I presume many chandleries stock them, we can ordered them in.
great vidéo,! tanks
Thanks mate.
i've started having problems with my V1. Its tripping the circuit breaker and not bringing the anchor up. Wonder if you've had any issues since installing? (also can't believe that's 4 out of 4 problems i've had you've done a video on. hhaha
Thanks for the vids...love them! got a stupid question....was it cicada season when you made this?
+Mark N sure was, I actually cut the 4K frequencies to quiet them down a bit. You should hear the original footage!
awesome! and thanks for the reply....i lived in Oz back in the 70's...and i missed that sound...imagine that!.
Aside from that...any experience with drum windlass?
LOL..sorry, disregard...i just noticed your post on the drum a month ago. will wait for one! Cheers!
Nice video, replace the shackle pin with a bolt.
Thanks Alan, that's a good tip, I wonder if I could even find a dome headed bolt to avoid it catching even more.
I've seen some people use a stainless hex head bolt and round the head off a bit with a grinder
The footwear choices Dave makes...
Those little holes in the sides are where his dignity leaks out.
Savage! Maybe he should cover those with a bit of duct tape before it all drains out!
lmao.
Great video, I've watched the others and they are good too.
We are considering putting a windlass on our boat and was wondering if your windlass will retrieve rope or does your whole anchor line need to be chain?
Thanks
Mike
Thats chain only, the rope ones have a secondary smooth drum for rope. Too be honest though with a windlass rope isn't neccesary and all chain is best and a more effective anchor. A nylon rope strop is used to connect to chain once anchor is deployed to provide buffering though. Bit like seen here but needs to be long enough to go over bow roller to work effectively.
Nice install Stu. Do you solder or crimp those large gauge wire terminals?
Yeah, we just crimp those as they are out of the weather and there is some argument that the heat in them can melt the solder.
Ha Aussies!
You just know that the relay is still sitting loose on the shelf and so far only 12.6 victims have head wounds or foot lacerations from late night attempts to sleep in the vee Bert. 😂😂😂😂
How does he now close the anchor hatch? Looks like the chain run is now in the way?
You can open it by either pull the anchor on deck, or putting the hook on it and letting out some slack. In general use though there is no longer a need to open the hatch other than for maintenance.
Great vid and love the banter! One question, can you manually winch up the anchor if say the batteries die or the motor malfunctions? cheers t
Hi mate, yes, there is a handle you can put into the winch top to wind it by hand.
Cheers! Thanks for getting back to me! Happy sailing guys!
Was a backing plate put underneath the new cleat?
Very nice work. Not meaning to criticize, but at 4:40 in the video, was a bit uncomfortable seeing you in the line of falling debris without safety squints. Otherwise, it looked like a fun time seeing a project come together.
It's okay, it's a valid criticism, I'm waaay too slack with PPE. I should have at least put my sunglasses on. No one wants fibreglass in the eye!
Just so you know a Woodruff key is specifically one that is semi-circular
Ah, a fair point you make.
stu had a thought couldnt you have bought a set of heavy duty jumper cables and used that .i use that on a 200amp welder for leads and they only cost £15 and they were 4 meters long
I have heard that welder leads can be a great way to go, other than they are not tinned so possibly not great in a marine environment in the long term. Dave bought this cable before we met up to do the install so I didn't get much say in it, but there certainly would be cheaper options I would imagine.
How does one open the chain locker hatch with an anchor chain across it.
The installation is not appropriate for this very old and worn out boat. Better investing in a new v berth hatch as it is so crazed.
This boat is far from worn out, any crazing is very superficial.
My comment was probably a little harsh as the methodology you were attempting to demonstrate was valid.
From a practical point of view Note:
1) The Amp rating of a cable is of secondary importance when sizing a cable as it is the voltage drop that is the critical factor.
2) When fitting a windlass it is a very good idea to mount a dedicated battery close to the windlass. This will reduce the cable sizes and simplify the overall wiring.
At 4:20ish the center of the hole is an inch; I wish you’d make up your mind liters or litres
Thanx from the left coast near the Krapitol of California
If you had drilled the veneer hole from underneath, after starting from the top, the veneer would not have split as badly.
Yes, it would have made for a neater cut that is true. Given the centre bit comes through first it wouldn't be hard to line up either.
Winch mounting with no backing plate top or bottom?? Not on my boat. You could use a split one for the bottom. Load bearing fittings all should be backed with something much more than washers for a good installation. Since this would be subject to shock loads as the boat rolls and pitches or comes up short when setting plates should be used.
And yet it’s been fine.
@@DangarMarine Most things are "fine" until they fail. Generally at the most inopportune time!
@@78vette51 I guess you would have to go out and do it to know. Nobody puts anchor chain on pots! Anchors are also subject to shock loads. Again you have to have some experience. That catanary action can eventually get overcome in weather current etc. I have seen all chain rode on a 400'+ ship stretched bow string tight. On a 36' in a blow the Danforth anchor came up looking like a cork screw! One foot of chain on any serious anchor rode is ridiculous. Even my 17' carries 30 ' of 3/8 before the nylon line! Shock load is a fact of life on a vessel.
10 mm?
Yu
Number one . Dont buy a lewmar . number two. No compress el system-a lewmar
That looks like shit. There should have been a horizontal windlass used and then they have not trashed the damned V-berth.
Thanks Spencer, great to meet you!
If I was that intent on a vertical windlass I would have cut an access port in the V-berth, sealed the deck hatch shut and mounted on the deck hatch. Then put doors or a curtain over the access port in the v-berth. That was totally HACKED there and added NOTHING to the boat value. In fact because of the labor costs involved with fixing that it in fact detracted value from the boat.