👉Ask!👈 I will try my best to answer all of your questions in time, if something is/was unclear. (Please make a separate comment, so that I get a notification) 🤍Community-Driven🤍 You are welcome to tell your story, tips & tricks, or challenges you've taken in painting Hot Wheels cars, so that other people may benefit from it as well. ⬆That said, if you find some info useful, please „up vote“ it, so that more people can see it 🧠Read the video description: I’ve made a list on all materials & tools for each level and how much you might pay for a single item. Note to 16:21 : All paint-coat numbers depend STRONGLY on the spray- or airbrush-paint you are using, as well as your spray-style. Some paints spray thicker, stronger, some other are very light and run easily if you throw thick coats on the surface. It's good for a starting point, but please experiment on that! Happy Customizing and have a great day!
@@tyerex5031 Everyone starts roughly at the same level, so everyone can do this, instantly. If you have already some experience in model building or something similar (like I did), it might be easier. But the most important step to take is just to start. It comes down on how passionate you are about it. Success is a matter of will. But like I said, you need to start! Basic stuff like spray painting out an can, wheel-swapping / lowering and detail painting can be learned quickly., just have fun!
@@Slav_Cream You can use 1.5mm to open it, but you wont fit a M2 screw into the post. You can just glue it back, or put it with no support back on. Depending on which side of the world you live (metrical / imperial System): you can use different screws with different available drill bits
Tips for cheap realistic seatbelts, You can fold stick a masking tapes into a seat belts. It does have a nice textile texture after painted. Have fun customizing, cheers
I can’t stress enough how amazing this video is. Thank you so much for putting out such an instructive and dynamic video. It is also great to see you appear in a video! Keep it up, love every upload.
@@themodelcarprojecthello, the best thing to do when painting is drilling the car’s bottom bc of the circle thingies And then use paint stripper Use sand paper and sand it a bit Add paint Add clear paint for layering or shininess if you want
Man... I know I'm late to the show... but you motivated finally getting that one Matchbox model car, that's missing so many details and has the wrong color... and fix it up, so it matches my old car, that I had to sell many years ago. Thank you so much!
Thank you so much for your instructional, inspirational, and entertaining videos. I finished painting my first two cars this week. Not perfect at all, but super happy with the results.
Ich habe diesen Kanal heute gefunden weil ich meine alten (halb kaputten) hot wheels mahl ein Upgrade geben wollte diese videos sind sehr hilfreich von sehr guter Erklärung bis zu sehr gutem editing! Einfach top!! 🤙
Honestly man you are mature and wise above your years. LOVE IT. Thank you for putting this together and I hope this does you well financially this video as it is DESERVING!!!
Tell me you are German without telling me you are German! You nailed it :D It's not just the perfection in your work, it's also the same perfection that is going into the production of your videos.
I thoroughly enjoyed this! I'm at a level between 2 and 3, let's say. I don't have proper helping hands yet, but have some sticks with some helping hands like ends to grab the car. Double sided tape can be replaced for a "self loop" on a regular tape as well, if you don't want to spend extra. I just use the toilet paper carton without tape anyway, but it's a good idea to also do this. My advice to beginners especially, is to just have fun and don't think you need a lot of equipment to do this. And have patience as mentioned. You'll get better over time. Haven't done a custom in a while and didn't know about the compatibility between casting, primer, paints and clear coats. I actually had a car chip on its own at a very late stage. I thought it was maybe because I didn't wait enough for it to dry between layers, but maybe the primer is not right for the casting as well (but I have no way of knowing the material easily because it's not a Hot Wheels car). Either way, congrats on the video and thanks for sharing, bud! Keep up the amazing work!
Thank you for writing this, you address some important points and tips. You can easily go with a low budget, just start and learn. And if you like the hobby, you can step up your game. 👉To paint incompatibility: It's important that you do NOT apply different layers of different types of 1k paint (lacquer, enamel, acrylic). The safest way is to stay in one range, to prevent side effects. A general rule of thumb: You can put anything over lacquer, but nothing underneath it (lacquers are the "hottest" paints of all, they can destroy coats underneath). 👉With primers it's often a bit different, mostly because they are basically cocktail mixes, so even manufacturers don't say (or know?? ;D) what it is exactly. Usually you can put almost everything over them (this is what a good primer should provide). The key is to find one, where they explicitly say that you can use it for aluminium, brass, zinc (Die-Cast-Metal)... or experiment and gamble ;) Thank you too for watching and supporting!
@@themodelcarproject thanks for the thorough reply! I'll take another shot at the one that has chipped because it's a very special project for me (it's a 1:43 reproduction of my first car so I really want to have it done to display). I'll try again but with a better drying time for the primer itself and be patient. All in all, the key is to have fun and enjoy the process. All the best and thanks again for sharing all the knowledge ✨
if u dont have a thing to hold u can use binder clipsfor that i cant tell u in words how to position it, i would need to show a picture but u will get to it;) edit: i know nothing about customising hot wheels i just saw that on another yt channel bruh
Another important factor, the temperature of the spray can. The warmer it is, the finer the paint coming out of the nozzle. Also helps to get as much coverage with less paint, saving you money.
Very nice, lets gooo🤙Man, every time I post something, you always comment and at the same time one of the first. Heap thanks for your years of support🫶
This is going to help because I am thinking of unboxing my mustang svo and spray painting it red so it looks like his old ford fairmont which dosent have a hotwheels yet!
one thing is , if you want to use tamiya and other model focused primies on metal, use metal primers/prep first. tamiya has one in a brushed mini jar and it makes the real primer adhere better and would prevent it from chipping like we can see here
Few tips from my time building models and used spraycans: Best was tamiya spraycans and if you heated them in warm wather you get even finer result. Because of small details on model cars, normal spraycans tends to lay too thick and details dissapear. But best is airbrush ofcourse
Thanks for sharing! Second that, especially if you paint on colder days, a warm can will perform better. Just make sure you dont get any water drops into the nozzle-spray area.... Tamiya makes very good paint indeed, I wont argue, just their primers are more platic-model focused. A tip to reduce the layer thickness on normal spray cans: use a low pressure flat cap. You will get finer results and the paint will lay down much nicer.
I know I should probably finish the full video incase you already went over it, but what if I want to paint it by hand? I'm turning my Lancia Delta Integrale into the rally car version and I want to paint all the details on.
I am painting my nine hundred and eleventh Porsche, I will update messages in the future. Updated for the first time: I took off the paint after getting minor chemical burns, due to the fact that the gloves were torn. Now I'm going to cover the machine with soil, but due to the fact that I bought a bad "helping hand" it may not be successful. Updated for the second time: this morning I covered the body of the machine with soil. Because I'm going to rest tonight, I didn't do everything according to the instructions. But definitely thanks to the author for his video, I will use it. Updated for the third time: I glued the car. And it turned out as for a beginner - not bad, it seems to me. I am very happy with my first job, I hope it will become my favorite thing.
Glad to hear! Yes absolutely that works as well. You can even buy color paint that has already gloss particles in it, so after the color coat you would be done without the need of a clear coat for a glossy finish. May want to look out for such a spray can, it's on you what you will find/ what you prefer
For level 1, a branch snapped in half to make a smaller stick and tape on the end, attached to the bottom makes a good free holder, so you don't have to paint your own hand and makes it so you can paint the whole thing without having to hold on to it.
I noticed that you used (I'm guessing you did) the Montana Aluminum Primer on 6:18 is there a reason for that, and would the Montana Metal Primer provide the same results?
4:28 I'm using Montana's black spray paint, but it's not drying properly and there's always a sticky feeling. Even after 24 hours, I can easily scratch off the paint with my nail. What should I do?
1. what exact paint do you use? (Montana Gold Shock Black S9000 perhaps?) 2. In which environment do you spray? High humidity, cold winter outside has negative impact on drying times. 3. How thick are your coats? How much time do you wait in between coats? Too thick coats and short drying times are bad, especially for acrylic paints, since they "rewet" the underlying coats, thus increasing drying time and can cause tacky surface. 4. Where do you let the car sit during drying time? Make sure to avoid effects like here: 3:57 5. did you shake the can very well for at least 2 mins? Maybe let it dry, where its about room temperature and as less humidity as possible. Airflow can help with drying. Do not apply heat or heated air as this will cause weird effects / defects on the paint surface. Hope this helps in some way. If the paint still remains tacky after 1+ week of drying in a more or less controlled environment (like described above), something is wrong.
I have the Montana black and it says graffiti spray paint on it i think this is the problem. Does it have to be from Montana's gold series for a better result?
@@belaliedits3624 Montana Gold is also for graffiti, but can be used for all different kind of applications. I don't have enough info on the exact paint you are using, so I can't tell wether it suits your application or not... Is your paint a laquer based paint? If yes then you need perhaps more drying time in between coats. Do you feel like the coats are too thick?....... Like I said with so less information I can't make a diagnostic from far. In any case, if you try some other paint, like Montana Gold or something similar (Nitro-Combi Acrylic) and you feel like its easier to work with, then sure go with that.
Hi! Can u teach how to change 1$ hw cars wheels to premium wheels,(beginner guide) i tryed to learn but still confused how to do it. Example i opened under the car like 2:08 then we see long thing which holds (helps) to wheels, i saw on other creators that they brake that small thing but, then they dont show how they put it back. Also pls MORE BEGINNER GUIDE PLS I LIKE IT! srry for my not well english)
You can check out two of my videos on how to "stance" a HW car. Just skip the stance process in this case. In another video I show how I install monoblock wheels, which is basically what you want, just wheelswap: th-cam.com/video/JakwifAdfcI/w-d-xo.html I break "that small thing" off as well, usually the interior should hold the axle on 2 studs for each axle. You can put the car back together how you want. Gluing works, or add an M2 screw, or sometimes it just holds itself. Another budget option would be to put a tiny bit of double sided tape into the inside of one door. Then press the base with the interior back. Hope that helps
Thank you too! I always paint the details after clear coat to protect the color coat. It's way more forgiving in case you make little mistakes while painting, you can always adjust and correct it to a comfortable degree, without the risk to disrupt your color coat. Another bonus is that you make sure that the detailing paint is not reacting with the body paint (esp with candy colors, "bleed" effect).
Thank you so much, this is the best explaining video that i ever watched; i have a question how you made your "helping hand"? again thank you, you really got talent.
Very glad that it helps! The helping hand is usually used to hold electronic parts while soldering. I just bought a few of them, they are like 5 bucks. The only modification I did is that I took of the magnifying glass and attached one arm to the joint where the glass has been. You can just grab HW cars much easier.
Hello! I'm learning how to properly drill down the rivets on some practice cars, and I'm approaching the part where I'll start stripping the paint. I quite like the metalic look of naked cars and want to sand them down to make them smooth and use a clear coat as well as painting the lights on the cars! How would you reccomend I go about this process, as well as any specific products to reccomend! Much love from NY
For this process you will have to use an lacquer based clear coat (the best option would be 2k clear, but I strongly would stay away from it as a Beginner, since its harmful and difficult to handle). Not that any Acrylic or water-based clear coats wouldnt work to keep the metal-diecast of the car shiny. Reason for this is that the water inside the paint will make the diecast oxidize and the paint will crack. Laquer-based clear coats are good for this, since it doesnt have water inside it. Be sure to make the body super clean and keep it dry before applying the clear coat! Hope this helps, cheers from Germany!
AMazing work!! Putting together all different prices for each level!! I send everyone from my IG to your youtube page when someone asks me how to lower a hot wheels. Great job and great video!!!
Thank You for very deep explaining! Dziękuję bardzo. I'm thinking about repainting my amiga cd32 computer , because original cover is in dark grey and catches dust instantly... All best in 2024
From my experience it only works like 50% of the time, if not less. Especially HW cars with a metallic paint job are super tough. I would recommend this paint stripper „pufas abbeizer p15 intensiv 750ml“. Or if you live in usa or asia you might get even stronger paint stripper. In any case, just give it a try. Hope that helps.
I was wondering if you could make a tutorial on how you model and 3d print some of the accessories you make for your cars ( like wheels and the pop headlights) because I’ve always wanted to make some but never knew how to
Amazing video and can’t choose better car 😉 I want to make a custom of the same miata, but how can you make the holes for the headlights? And how can u make the popup headlights? Just 3d printing? Thanks man!
Thank you! I made a quick tutorial on how to install pop ups without a 3d printer, you may want to check it out. The holes where made by first drilling, then cutting with a small jigsaw (0,4mm thickness of the saw itself, the slimmer the better). Hope that helps!
Glad to hear! I don't know any primer that worked better than norm fest. I just know that tamiya and montana primer doesnt work on diecast. Just make sure to choose a primer, where they explicitly say its suitable for brass, aluminium or copper AND make sure that it's sandable! Some other primer work on those metals, but you cant sand them, wich is a deal breaker. At last you just need to try those primers out, which are available to you with a reasonable price
What a job…. Great to see how it’s really done. I would never do that because if my shaking hands, but I sub to your channel though to show you my support. Outstanding and very well explained video, that I shared to my contacts who were doing some custom diecast. Keep on the good work. Chely.
I havent tried it with a 1.5mm drill bit but I dont think it will work. In any case you can just try it out. I found that 1,8 works best for M2 screws, they get in quite easily and hold very well
@@kr4shed Try to search for "1.8mm hss drill bit" or just "1.8 mm hss" on ebay, amazon or dedicated hardware shops (in Germany: voelkner, conrad,...). If you are e.g. from america, you can also use the equivalent M2 screw in imperial measurement (chat gpt might help). Or if you are able to find M2 screws, but not the 1,8mm drill bit, then convert the 1,8mm into whatever measurement your country uses (probably inches? -> M2 = 2 mm diameter = 0,0787 in)
Its just some regular oil for mechanical parts. Just go for one thats thin and not greasy. You could even use some oil from the kitchen, just make sure that the car is clean after the screw is in.
Oil was some very fluid mineral oil with low viscosity, so that it can easily flow inside that upright post. Screws: I´mostly use standard threaded M2 with 3mm length, rarely 5mm and 8-10mm for the display case Attachement. In regards to the head of the screw: its just some standard, nothing special, mine have a max head-diameter of about 3,8mm
thanks for the tutorial I'm currently working on painting my Dodge Challenger SRT hellcat from blue to red or black i think I'm going for level 3 since i don't have a studio
Can u link the items that you use like size of brush for the details? Also the compound u use to fix the paint? The air brush kit u use? Everything can be purchased online or maybe amazon?
👉Size Brush: literally the smallest you can find, at least 00 or 000, I have even 15/0 and 20/0 made by "davinci", preferably choose synthetic-brushes. 👉Polishing Compound: Just the one made by Tamiya, the red and blue one, "finish" (white) is optional, doesnt make a huge impact, just slightly more shine 👉Airbrush Kit: I use a 0.4mm harder steenbeck evolution cr plus, however if its your first airbrush then please buy a very cheap one from amazon (thats what I did, still use it from time to time, costed only 50 bucks with tons of equipment) I dont have any links, they often change or expire. Check out amazon and ebay, or find some dedicated shops to modelbuilding or painting minis via google
I just wouldn't buy something very cheap. Cheap cans tend to fade out over time, get color shifts or just not being durable over time. Just go with some brands you have maybe heard of.
Tamiya chrome silver (x-line) and on top transparent purple by "schmincke" (aero color). But you can use any other transparent purple (if you stay in your paint-line: lacquer, acrylic, enamel). Maybe tamiya offers this as well.
question:the paint is easy to remuve??(like wen it dries if u scrach it with your nail does the paint come off?,question 2:what is a good quality spray paint??
For spray cans: 1: depends on the paint. usually paint out of cans is quite durable. Laquer/enamels are usually a bit more durable. 2. If it's not cheaper than maybe 5€ lets say. Dont buy the cheapest brand on earth (doesnt need to be expensive though)
👉Ask!👈
I will try my best to answer all of your questions in time, if something is/was unclear. (Please make a separate comment, so that I get a notification)
🤍Community-Driven🤍
You are welcome to tell your story, tips & tricks, or challenges you've taken in painting Hot Wheels cars, so that other people may benefit from it as well.
⬆That said, if you find some info useful, please „up vote“ it, so that more people can see it
🧠Read the video description: I’ve made a list on all materials & tools for each level and how much you might pay for a single item.
Note to 16:21 : All paint-coat numbers depend STRONGLY on the spray- or airbrush-paint you are using, as well as your spray-style. Some paints spray thicker, stronger, some other are very light and run easily if you throw thick coats on the surface. It's good for a starting point, but please experiment on that!
Happy Customizing and have a great day!
Wish I had the skill, just don't have the time. Always wanted a hot wheel customized to look like my car. How long did it take you to learn the skill?
My question: can i use a 1,5mm instead of the 1,8mm drill bit? The 1,8 is very hard to find (i never saw it) and i got a 1,5mm at home.
@@tyerex5031 Everyone starts roughly at the same level, so everyone can do this, instantly. If you have already some experience in model building or something similar (like I did), it might be easier. But the most important step to take is just to start. It comes down on how passionate you are about it. Success is a matter of will.
But like I said, you need to start! Basic stuff like spray painting out an can, wheel-swapping / lowering and detail painting can be learned quickly., just have fun!
@@Slav_Cream You can use 1.5mm to open it, but you wont fit a M2 screw into the post. You can just glue it back, or put it with no support back on. Depending on which side of the world you live (metrical / imperial System): you can use different screws with different available drill bits
How can i paint under the spoiler with spray can and without doing multiple layers at the back?
I’ve watched a ton of hot wheel creators and they’re great but the way you edit your videos and still make a dope car is next level!
Thanks a lot my man🤙
did u watched jakarta diecast project?
@@taufiknurdiansyah8595 yes. This is edited in a very creative way than just cuts/steps most channels do
Vc é um artista detalhista!parabéns e obrigado pelas dicas!!
Tips for cheap realistic seatbelts, You can fold stick a masking tapes into a seat belts. It does have a nice textile texture after painted. Have fun customizing, cheers
Nice tip, thanks for sharing🤙
I just painted my first car
Which one is it
I just painted mine too, it had many bubbles and things
:D
Dope
Congrats! I hope to customize my fist diecast model soon!
I can’t stress enough how amazing this video is. Thank you so much for putting out such an instructive and dynamic video. It is also great to see you appear in a video! Keep it up, love every upload.
Heap thanks for your kind words my man, glad to hear that it's informative, yet still nice to watch. Thanks for your support🙌
@@themodelcarprojecthello, the best thing to do when painting is drilling the car’s bottom bc of the circle thingies
And then use paint stripper
Use sand paper and sand it a bit
Add paint
Add clear paint for layering or shininess if you want
Man... I know I'm late to the show... but you motivated finally getting that one Matchbox model car, that's missing so many details and has the wrong color... and fix it up, so it matches my old car, that I had to sell many years ago. Thank you so much!
You did it. And Im gad to hear the video helped out, thank you.
Pointers & expertise are much appreciated, with nice dose of humour!! 🔥👏
Heap thanks, very glad you liked it ;)
Thank you so much for your instructional, inspirational, and entertaining videos. I finished painting my first two cars this week. Not perfect at all, but super happy with the results.
Thank you, glad to inspire :D Well done, the most important thing is to have fun. Keep going!🤙
Ich habe diesen Kanal heute gefunden weil ich meine alten (halb kaputten) hot wheels mahl ein Upgrade geben wollte diese videos sind sehr hilfreich von sehr guter Erklärung bis zu sehr gutem editing! Einfach top!! 🤙
Vielen dank, freut mich zu hören dass das Video hilfreich ist! Viel Spass beim Umbau!
holy moly, this is the best explanation how to custom hotwheels so far I've watched. Keep up the good work man!
Very glad to hear, this was my No.1 goal, thank you!
I watched some of this and got on with restoring one of my cars for a gift. Good video!
The car turned out mighty fine, I recommend using a clear coat too
Thank you, glad to hear!✌️
Honestly man you are mature and wise above your years. LOVE IT. Thank you for putting this together and I hope this does you well financially this video as it is DESERVING!!!
Thanks a lot my man, appreciate your words! :D
Tell me you are German without telling me you are German! You nailed it :D It's not just the perfection in your work, it's also the same perfection that is going into the production of your videos.
Haha xD thanks my man!
This is so well made! I'm gonna share it as much as I can to get you the views that you deserve!
Also so motivating.
Glad to hear that it resonates, thank you so much for your support my man, appreciate it a lot!🫶
Thank you for all the tips. Gonna paint my first car soon
Happy customizing!
I thoroughly enjoyed this! I'm at a level between 2 and 3, let's say. I don't have proper helping hands yet, but have some sticks with some helping hands like ends to grab the car. Double sided tape can be replaced for a "self loop" on a regular tape as well, if you don't want to spend extra. I just use the toilet paper carton without tape anyway, but it's a good idea to also do this.
My advice to beginners especially, is to just have fun and don't think you need a lot of equipment to do this. And have patience as mentioned. You'll get better over time. Haven't done a custom in a while and didn't know about the compatibility between casting, primer, paints and clear coats. I actually had a car chip on its own at a very late stage. I thought it was maybe because I didn't wait enough for it to dry between layers, but maybe the primer is not right for the casting as well (but I have no way of knowing the material easily because it's not a Hot Wheels car).
Either way, congrats on the video and thanks for sharing, bud! Keep up the amazing work!
Thank you for writing this, you address some important points and tips. You can easily go with a low budget, just start and learn. And if you like the hobby, you can step up your game.
👉To paint incompatibility: It's important that you do NOT apply different layers of different types of 1k paint (lacquer, enamel, acrylic). The safest way is to stay in one range, to prevent side effects. A general rule of thumb: You can put anything over lacquer, but nothing underneath it (lacquers are the "hottest" paints of all, they can destroy coats underneath).
👉With primers it's often a bit different, mostly because they are basically cocktail mixes, so even manufacturers don't say (or know?? ;D) what it is exactly. Usually you can put almost everything over them (this is what a good primer should provide). The key is to find one, where they explicitly say that you can use it for aluminium, brass, zinc (Die-Cast-Metal)... or experiment and gamble ;)
Thank you too for watching and supporting!
@@themodelcarproject thanks for the thorough reply! I'll take another shot at the one that has chipped because it's a very special project for me (it's a 1:43 reproduction of my first car so I really want to have it done to display). I'll try again but with a better drying time for the primer itself and be patient.
All in all, the key is to have fun and enjoy the process. All the best and thanks again for sharing all the knowledge ✨
if u dont have a thing to hold u can use binder clipsfor that
i cant tell u in words how to position it, i would need to show a picture
but u will get to it;)
edit: i know nothing about customising hot wheels i just saw that on another yt channel bruh
Thanks!!!
With this tutorial I can now custom my hotwheels and my friends so they can pay me money to custom their hotwheels ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Glad to help ;D
this guy is amazing. I love how he responds to his fans
🤙
I've buy so many damage hotwheels, and I donno how to start until this video....and now I gonna be prepared for the project. Thanks! I subs👍
Thanks man, lucky to help🤙
1:01 level 1 IS the hardest one
Another important factor, the temperature of the spray can. The warmer it is, the finer the paint coming out of the nozzle. Also helps to get as much coverage with less paint, saving you money.
Good point! Especially for the flow characteristics
Dude, your camera work and editing skills are waaaayyyyyyy better!
Thanks my man! :D
Saving this one! Got some years of experience on spray painting, even tried with some of my models. Work to do this summer :)
Very nice, lets gooo🤙Man, every time I post something, you always comment and at the same time one of the first. Heap thanks for your years of support🫶
@@themodelcarproject thanks to you mate. We'll be around.
you just earned your self another sub, very nice job
Heap thanks!🤙
This is going to help because I am thinking of unboxing my mustang svo and spray painting it red so it looks like his old ford fairmont which dosent have a hotwheels yet!
one thing is , if you want to use tamiya and other model focused primies on metal, use metal primers/prep first. tamiya has one in a brushed mini jar and it makes the real primer adhere better and would prevent it from chipping like we can see here
Thanks for the info, didn't know this. It requiers an extra step, but this is of course very useful if you already have a tamiya setup
Where did you get those pop ups for the miata? Love the videos as always!
I designed and 3d printed them myself, they will be available soon inside my online store: themodelcarproject.com
Few tips from my time building models and used spraycans: Best was tamiya spraycans and if you heated them in warm wather you get even finer result. Because of small details on model cars, normal spraycans tends to lay too thick and details dissapear. But best is airbrush ofcourse
Thanks for sharing! Second that, especially if you paint on colder days, a warm can will perform better. Just make sure you dont get any water drops into the nozzle-spray area.... Tamiya makes very good paint indeed, I wont argue, just their primers are more platic-model focused. A tip to reduce the layer thickness on normal spray cans: use a low pressure flat cap. You will get finer results and the paint will lay down much nicer.
I know I should probably finish the full video incase you already went over it, but what if I want to paint it by hand? I'm turning my Lancia Delta Integrale into the rally car version and I want to paint all the details on.
For sure, just try it out! Anything goes.
your painting booth with what appeared to be an exhaust fan is so awesome.
You can buy them online, they are super handy (and necessary), when you are painting inside.
@themodelcarproject I'm going to look into them for sure. very cool channel, keep up the great work!
@@thatDUDEfromMAINE Thanks man!
I am painting my nine hundred and eleventh Porsche, I will update messages in the future.
Updated for the first time: I took off the paint after getting minor chemical burns, due to the fact that the gloves were torn. Now I'm going to cover the machine with soil, but due to the fact that I bought a bad "helping hand" it may not be successful.
Updated for the second time: this morning I covered the body of the machine with soil. Because I'm going to rest tonight, I didn't do everything according to the instructions. But definitely thanks to the author for his video, I will use it.
Updated for the third time: I glued the car. And it turned out as for a beginner - not bad, it seems to me. I am very happy with my first job, I hope it will become my favorite thing.
I loved the tutorial, my budget is between level 2 and level 3, so can i use the level 2 method but applying the gloss-clear coat?
Glad to hear! Yes absolutely that works as well. You can even buy color paint that has already gloss particles in it, so after the color coat you would be done without the need of a clear coat for a glossy finish. May want to look out for such a spray can, it's on you what you will find/ what you prefer
Clean tutorial, i just love that laboratory! Thank you for sharing! 👍
Thank you very much :-) ✌
Amazing content! I'm going to make my first custom car this summer, so this will help me a lot!😀👍
Cool, glad to help, happy customizing! :D
@@themodelcarproject thank you!
For level 1, a branch snapped in half to make a smaller stick and tape on the end, attached to the bottom makes a good free holder, so you don't have to paint your own hand and makes it so you can paint the whole thing without having to hold on to it.
Bbq sticks work to some extend as well
HOLY CRAP THANK YOU, finally a video with great detail!!
Thanks man xD
I noticed that you used (I'm guessing you did) the Montana Aluminum Primer on 6:18 is there a reason for that, and would the Montana Metal Primer provide the same results?
Amazing video, it really shows what to do and what to expect at each level!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you so much for your motivation...
I just painted a hotwheels honda civic custom with violet spray paint.
Once again, Thank you so much...
Dope! Very glad to hear.
It help just in time for my "first" painted hotwheels, it's really helpful 👌 😅
Great video. I really appreciated the motivational tips at the end of your video. Keep up the good work.
Thank you🤙
Bro thank you for info extremely helpful can’t wait do my first custom and love the ending meaning motivating words
I'm very glad to hear that my man, thank you very much. Happy customizing!
This is magnificent and heavy weight job 👍
Thank you my man! :D
Schönes Video !
Der MX 5 sieht da echt geil aus......wirklich viel Mühe gemacht.
Danke dir!🤙
Congratulations for your awesome work, I cannot imagine how many hours between painting and editing 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you very much! :D first time putting a lot of focus on the editing part, so yeah, quite a few hours invested. Glad that it was worth it ;D
do you have a link the helping hand you used? or anything that may help, thanks
No links, but it's called "third hand" or "soldering aid"
I love the tips for different experience levels!
Glad to hear mate
Amazing work 😍😍 Thank you for inspiration ✨
Thank you!
4:28 I'm using Montana's black spray paint, but it's not drying properly and there's always a sticky feeling. Even after 24 hours, I can easily scratch off the paint with my nail. What should I do?
1. what exact paint do you use? (Montana Gold Shock Black S9000 perhaps?)
2. In which environment do you spray? High humidity, cold winter outside has negative impact on drying times.
3. How thick are your coats? How much time do you wait in between coats? Too thick coats and short drying times are bad, especially for acrylic paints, since they "rewet" the underlying coats, thus increasing drying time and can cause tacky surface.
4. Where do you let the car sit during drying time? Make sure to avoid effects like here: 3:57
5. did you shake the can very well for at least 2 mins?
Maybe let it dry, where its about room temperature and as less humidity as possible. Airflow can help with drying. Do not apply heat or heated air as this will cause weird effects / defects on the paint surface.
Hope this helps in some way. If the paint still remains tacky after 1+ week of drying in a more or less controlled environment (like described above), something is wrong.
I have the Montana black and it says graffiti spray paint on it i think this is the problem. Does it have to be from Montana's gold series for a better result?
@@belaliedits3624 Montana Gold is also for graffiti, but can be used for all different kind of applications. I don't have enough info on the exact paint you are using, so I can't tell wether it suits your application or not... Is your paint a laquer based paint? If yes then you need perhaps more drying time in between coats. Do you feel like the coats are too thick?.......
Like I said with so less information I can't make a diagnostic from far. In any case, if you try some other paint, like Montana Gold or something similar (Nitro-Combi Acrylic) and you feel like its easier to work with, then sure go with that.
Super cool video. Visualy satisfying.
glad to hear, thanks!
Great vid as always
Thank you! And for your support as well :)
Hi! Can u teach how to change 1$ hw cars wheels to premium wheels,(beginner guide) i tryed to learn but still confused how to do it. Example i opened under the car like 2:08 then we see long thing which holds (helps) to wheels, i saw on other creators that they brake that small thing but, then they dont show how they put it back. Also pls MORE BEGINNER GUIDE PLS I LIKE IT!
srry for my not well english)
I think they just glue it in
You can check out two of my videos on how to "stance" a HW car. Just skip the stance process in this case. In another video I show how I install monoblock wheels, which is basically what you want, just wheelswap: th-cam.com/video/JakwifAdfcI/w-d-xo.html
I break "that small thing" off as well, usually the interior should hold the axle on 2 studs for each axle.
You can put the car back together how you want. Gluing works, or add an M2 screw, or sometimes it just holds itself. Another budget option would be to put a tiny bit of double sided tape into the inside of one door. Then press the base with the interior back.
Hope that helps
@@themodelcarproject thanks! i will try that!
I just painted my ford mustung!! Thanks for your info❤❤😊😊
:)
Awesome work man 👍 what a cool hobby to get into..
I like how u did the "levels" in this vid, big like for this 🔥
Thanks my man
Thank you for the amazing video. I have a question, when do you paint on the details? Before applying the clear coats or when? Thank you in advance.
Thank you too! I always paint the details after clear coat to protect the color coat. It's way more forgiving in case you make little mistakes while painting, you can always adjust and correct it to a comfortable degree, without the risk to disrupt your color coat. Another bonus is that you make sure that the detailing paint is not reacting with the body paint (esp with candy colors, "bleed" effect).
Thank you so much, this is the best explaining video that i ever watched; i have a question how you made your "helping hand"?
again thank you, you really got talent.
Very glad that it helps! The helping hand is usually used to hold electronic parts while soldering. I just bought a few of them, they are like 5 bucks. The only modification I did is that I took of the magnifying glass and attached one arm to the joint where the glass has been. You can just grab HW cars much easier.
@@themodelcarproject thank you for answering!!! I really need one of those 😅.
Have a nice day, I can’t wait for your next video jejejeje
Hello! I'm learning how to properly drill down the rivets on some practice cars, and I'm approaching the part where I'll start stripping the paint. I quite like the metalic look of naked cars and want to sand them down to make them smooth and use a clear coat as well as painting the lights on the cars! How would you reccomend I go about this process, as well as any specific products to reccomend! Much love from NY
For this process you will have to use an lacquer based clear coat (the best option would be 2k clear, but I strongly would stay away from it as a Beginner, since its harmful and difficult to handle). Not that any Acrylic or water-based clear coats wouldnt work to keep the metal-diecast of the car shiny. Reason for this is that the water inside the paint will make the diecast oxidize and the paint will crack. Laquer-based clear coats are good for this, since it doesnt have water inside it. Be sure to make the body super clean and keep it dry before applying the clear coat!
Hope this helps, cheers from Germany!
@@themodelcarproject Thank you for the guidance! :D
AMazing work!! Putting together all different prices for each level!! I send everyone from my IG to your youtube page when someone asks me how to lower a hot wheels. Great job and great video!!!
Wow thats cool to hear, glad that the videos helps you and others. Thank you my mate✌️
Great tips. Got ya shared on our socials!
Thank you for your support💪
Thanks bro, this video is very useful, i want to change the paint on my hotwheels
What type of paint should I use specifically if I want black and is the tape different from normal tape?
Nederlands? Goed gedaan! Dank je voor de informatie. ❤
No, Germany! However I still could understand what you are saying, the words themselves are a bit similar ;D
Thank You for very deep explaining!
Dziękuję bardzo.
I'm thinking about repainting my amiga cd32 computer ,
because original cover is in dark grey and catches dust instantly...
All best in 2024
Part of me want to pop my first car back open and re paint it but at the same time I want to keep it show myself how far I’ve come
Maaaan I feel you! xD But thats really why I keep it as it is. Rather concentrate on new projects, the old ones are done and belong to the past.
Good car you got there
Hey bro do you think that acetone would be a good alternative of paint stripper? Thanks
From my experience it only works like 50% of the time, if not less. Especially HW cars with a metallic paint job are super tough. I would recommend this paint stripper „pufas abbeizer p15 intensiv 750ml“. Or if you live in usa or asia you might get even stronger paint stripper.
In any case, just give it a try. Hope that helps.
Thank you so much for this. Very detailed
What type/make of sprays do you use, I wasn't fast enuff to snap a pic of the can you used in this vid
Montana gold paint. But in general almost all type of cans should work. I would personally prefer an acrylic based paint.
I’ve been painting hot wheels ever since my first custom hot wheels car which was a few years ago. I take out an tire screw but one drill
finally new content after 8 months ive been waiting
Yesss, I hope the wait was worth it! ;D
great motivation for the end part of video..thanks ive learn more with your video..
Thank you, glad to hear!✌️
I was wondering if you could make a tutorial on how you model and 3d print some of the accessories you make for your cars ( like wheels and the pop headlights) because I’ve always wanted to make some but never knew how to
Noted!
I learn a lot from this even i do paint for model kits. Thank you so much man 👍✨
Glad to hear!
Thank you bro for the tutorial, My third ever painted car is now drying and it looks great. If not you, i wouldn't paint anything
Im glad it helped, thank you!
@@themodelcarproject Also should the paint come off when i just
run it over with fingernail? Car that i painted 3 months ago has this issue
I didnt put the clearcoat. May it be the reason why?
Nice! Nobody would ever tell me what kind of primer they use on other videos when I asked. Like its some big secret they didn't want to share
Amazing video and can’t choose better car 😉
I want to make a custom of the same miata, but how can you make the holes for the headlights? And how can u make the popup headlights? Just 3d printing? Thanks man!
Thank you! I made a quick tutorial on how to install pop ups without a 3d printer, you may want to check it out. The holes where made by first drilling, then cutting with a small jigsaw (0,4mm thickness of the saw itself, the slimmer the better). Hope that helps!
What type of paint stripper is that? 😊
ahh also doch aus D :) habs mir schon beim Düsensatz und dem Festo Barometer gedacht. Sehr gutes Video, hab einiges mitgenommen 🖤
Natürlich! ;) Deutsche Produkte sind sehr willkommen im Hause. Danke, freut mich zu hören, dass es geholfen hat.
Wow das mit dem bohren wusste ich nicht danke für das Video Grüsse aus Deutschland
Thanks! wonderfull video! Also nice Mustaches!
Haha thanks ;D
OMG HE POSTED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yeeeeeeesss finally after so much time xD Thanks for supporting me✌️
@@themodelcarproject All good keep grinding
Thets the tutorial i needed, THANK YOU SO MUCH
What is that liquid for level 2?
Paint stripper that I use: pufas abbeizer p15 intensiv
Great tips! Thanks for the good video.
You are welcome, thank you too
The presentation video edit is 🔥. Nice cars dude!
Heap thanks my mate! :D
Love this video. Great information. Is there any other primers you recommend other than the Normfest 1k?
Thanks
Glad to hear! I don't know any primer that worked better than norm fest. I just know that tamiya and montana primer doesnt work on diecast. Just make sure to choose a primer, where they explicitly say its suitable for brass, aluminium or copper AND make sure that it's sandable! Some other primer work on those metals, but you cant sand them, wich is a deal breaker. At last you just need to try those primers out, which are available to you with a reasonable price
@@themodelcarproject thanks, I will stick with Normfest. Take care my friend.
What a job…. Great to see how it’s really done. I would never do that because if my shaking hands, but I sub to your channel though to show you my support. Outstanding and very well explained video, that I shared to my contacts who were doing some custom diecast. Keep on the good work. Chely.
Thank you very much, appreciate your support! :D
Will a 1.5mm drill bit work fine?
Also how do i get fine details do i do it with a paint brush?
I havent tried it with a 1.5mm drill bit but I dont think it will work. In any case you can just try it out. I found that 1,8 works best for M2 screws, they get in quite easily and hold very well
@@themodelcarproject Thanks for replying but I can’t find any 1.8mm in my country can you tell me where you got it from
@@kr4shed Try to search for "1.8mm hss drill bit" or just "1.8 mm hss" on ebay, amazon or dedicated hardware shops (in Germany: voelkner, conrad,...). If you are e.g. from america, you can also use the equivalent M2 screw in imperial measurement (chat gpt might help). Or if you are able to find M2 screws, but not the 1,8mm drill bit, then convert the 1,8mm into whatever measurement your country uses (probably inches? -> M2 = 2 mm diameter = 0,0787 in)
@@themodelcarproject thanks
Quick question, what oil did you use for level 2 and where would I find it. Thanks!
Its just some regular oil for mechanical parts. Just go for one thats thin and not greasy. You could even use some oil from the kitchen, just make sure that the car is clean after the screw is in.
@@themodelcarprojectok thanks
What oil was used or can it be any? Also where the screws 3.8m2 3mm? Or does the head of the screw need to be smaller than 3.8?
Oil was some very fluid mineral oil with low viscosity, so that it can easily flow inside that upright post. Screws: I´mostly use standard threaded M2 with 3mm length, rarely 5mm and 8-10mm for the display case Attachement. In regards to the head of the screw: its just some standard, nothing special, mine have a max head-diameter of about 3,8mm
thanks for the tutorial I'm currently working on painting my Dodge Challenger SRT hellcat from blue to red or black i think I'm going for level 3 since i don't have a studio
the alternative way is satisfying 😁😁
Can u link the items that you use like size of brush for the details? Also the compound u use to fix the paint? The air brush kit u use? Everything can be purchased online or maybe amazon?
👉Size Brush: literally the smallest you can find, at least 00 or 000, I have even 15/0 and 20/0 made by "davinci", preferably choose synthetic-brushes.
👉Polishing Compound: Just the one made by Tamiya, the red and blue one, "finish" (white) is optional, doesnt make a huge impact, just slightly more shine
👉Airbrush Kit: I use a 0.4mm harder steenbeck evolution cr plus, however if its your first airbrush then please buy a very cheap one from amazon (thats what I did, still use it from time to time, costed only 50 bucks with tons of equipment)
I dont have any links, they often change or expire. Check out amazon and ebay, or find some dedicated shops to modelbuilding or painting minis via google
*No Miots were harmed in the making of this video.*
Thanks for so useful and enjoyable video
glad to hear, thanks!
Love this watched few times 😊
Is the Montana GOLD Spray the best brand or any brand is good?
I just wouldn't buy something very cheap. Cheap cans tend to fade out over time, get color shifts or just not being durable over time. Just go with some brands you have maybe heard of.
Fair enough I will keep that in mind! @@themodelcarproject
What did you use to make that purple color on that custom Supra in one of your videos? It is a real nice purple.
Tamiya chrome silver (x-line) and on top transparent purple by "schmincke" (aero color). But you can use any other transparent purple (if you stay in your paint-line: lacquer, acrylic, enamel). Maybe tamiya offers this as well.
question:the paint is easy to remuve??(like wen it dries if u scrach it with your nail does the paint come off?,question 2:what is a good quality spray paint??
For spray cans: 1: depends on the paint. usually paint out of cans is quite durable. Laquer/enamels are usually a bit more durable.
2. If it's not cheaper than maybe 5€ lets say. Dont buy the cheapest brand on earth (doesnt need to be expensive though)