One thing to add is some small wood blocks on the inside of the bottom two totes. Place them an inch or two above where the other tote naturally rests inside. This will save you a hell of a wrestling match later trying to detach them to switch them out.
Thank you for making videos for the average person. You don’t talk excessively at the beginning giving an intro- you just get into it- thank you! You give the easiest, most cost effective way to do things and explain in layman’s terms. I really appreciate your videos!
lol he doesnt actually know what tf he is doing. He just copies other blogs online. If u follow his advice u will build a horrible worm composting system. Good luck!
i made a bin like this once, it did work. however, the way the totes nest together does not allow much space in the bottom and middle. the bottom wasn't such a big deal as long as i kept it fairly drained. but the middle bin was an issue. if 'too full' which does not take much, the top bin rests upon the medium in the middle bin, potentially compacting it, and it allowed a gap between the middle and top bins and other bugs easily got inside. this can be ok in an indoor bug-free and rodent-free area. outdoors it was a messy disaster. if possible, try to get bins of different depths that still stack. and keep in mind that the material in the middle bin needs to be deep enough to reach the bottom of the top bin so the worms can migrate up. the worm juice i made kept my orchids blooming year round in sothern california.
That's what i kept thinking too and you confirmed it. There's just not that much distance for any respectable volume in this stacked style. Single bin with only air holes could be filled all the way to the top pretty much
Try pickle buckets from Firehouse Subs. They cost 2 dollars each. Are food safe so worm safe, and the money goes to Firefighters. I love NOT dying in fires, so whatever little I can do for them I do :)
I watching this after trying to do a two story worm bin where we were dumping about 15 lbs a week in food waste. ...so granted, mine was quite a big larger than a typical single person would produce and it filled the whole bin within a month. A problem I encountered was that the weight of the bins on top seemed to have compressed the materials below. This caused some drainage problems for me. Solution: add spacers to keep the weight of the top bins from directly compressing the lower bins.
We are a family of nine and have a lot of food waste, we are looking into a worm farm. Any idea how many 3 story totes we would need if we do 15lbs a week?
@@yvetterose7632 1kg or 2.2lbs food maximum (per 1000 to 2000 worms) per week. 1 sq foot of worm bin living space per 1lb of food per week BUT no more than about 8 to 10 inches deep per 1000 worms. They won't always eat it all so don't feed again until old food is gone or remove old food before adding more or if previous food starts to mold or smell. Will also eat it much faster if food is broken down very tiny or processed in blender first (smaller but not liquified) rather than tossing in larger pieces.
@@epicgardeninghey would really appreciate your answer on this question : where can I sell them, for what price and how to transport them to my customer? Thank you a lot shalom!
@@yvetterose7632look into black soldier flies too! They can compost anything, junkfood, meats, cheeses, fats. Amazing creatures and not tacky and annoying like a house fly. If you have birds, they're larva make some of the best poultry protein.
Hi Kevin, great video. This is an excellent design for worm bins. Can you do a follow-up video on how your worms are doing and how you harvest the castings and rotate bins?
@@sandrafarkas3606 That's what I was wondering, as well as whether the castings would actually fall to the middle bin. I was looking for an easy way to harvest castings, but I'm not sure this is it.
@@debbyhughes2208 hi Debby! So the worm castings don’t fall to the middle bin. Once you notice the top bin is starting to get full of worm castings, you move the top bin to the middle. Now the top bin is empty. You start putting food in the top bin, and wait for the worms to crawl up the hole to find food. Once you notice the worms have crawled to the top bin, you can remove the castings from the middle bin!
@@gabrielledotson4450 so should we put dirt in the top bin along with food scraps so they climb up? Or just food scraps? Also, drainage in all bins too? I was a bit confused in that part
@@solitary.witch0077 yes i think that you got the idea now, they cycle the top and middle bins to harvest the castings. im a little concerned if the worms would have some trouble crawling up but i guess the only way to find out is to make it. also try looking around hardware or gardening stores for something like those bins :)
Great video. I drill a hole of about 5 inches at the bottom of my plastic worm bin and simply glue on a patch of fine netting, for the liquid to pass through, and glue a little plank at the bottom of the other side, to ensure an inclination in the direction of the drainage hole. I place them next to each other and the liquids just run out into the soil. With our mild African bushveld temperature (hot summers and winters never below 0, no snow and no frost even) I leave the bins plus a 4-tier wooden worm box I built, below a huge ficus tree in the garden. Now watching the two systems over some months to see how they compare.
I have oil barrels buried in my yard with holes drilled in them. There is also irrigation ran to them. One in each corner of my yard. My worms free range.
Just for anyone's info.....worms love used coffee grounds also, and for me that means a whole filter full of food for them every morning and a great place to get rid of your grounds. I also use them in my outdoor compost bins. Also....you have to have some height on the bulkhead fitting (just another name for the cooler drain and used in boats) and the reason why is because you have to have some height for the threads that the nut goes on. Them make them a bit long for different thickness materials. i use them on full 1/4" thick rainwater barrels, totes aren't that thick so just cut some of the threads off with a razor knife after you install the nut on and tighten it, easy peasy. Also if you put that fitting in the corner that is the lowest part of the tote. and looks like there is room for it there.
When I modified my vermicompost bin for worm juice collection, I drilled a hole and used a piece of fish tank filter tube and drilled the hole a hair smaller so the tube would fit snug. It drained into an old pickle bucket with a lid and two holes drilled. I don't waste a drop of it! I had to transition to a bin under it now bc my bin is booming and I needed more room lol.
I’m always reminded how much I love your channel when I search for something and click on a video and then find out it’s yours! You give so much great information!
Why not put drain on end of the bin, at the margin of the base and side. One could tip the bin forward slightly and drain out nearly all the liquid. Advantage is the bin isn't sitting on the drain spout and a container to collect liquid is easily placed under the drain.
Yeah, totally could do that. I wanted a barrel tap which would have been easier to do that with, but couldn't find one on short notice. I have a few improvements to this design already in my head, so I might do another video about it in the next month or two :)
@@frihaug I went ahead and designed one with a spout on the front, instead of in the bottom. And I didnt find a spout for sale. I used one from a laundry detergent jug!!! My husband did all the work for me. What a peach!! 😍
would just need a 2 tier + drip tray in that case..constant draining of the leachate would fix the health issues thats asscociated with using it on food plants
Or... divide one bin into two compartments with a center divider (parallel to the longest side of the bin). Fill one side up with vegi scraps until it has built up a foot higher. Remove the divider. Start filling the empty side with fresh food. The worms will migrate over. When it has risen up to be on the level, harvest the worm castings on the old side, digging down a foot. Start filling the new cavity with food until it rises up to be even. Harvest. Put food in the cavity. Repeat indefinitely. A base of material under both sides is advisable so migration is never hindered. When I harvest compost I always screen it. Same could be done for the casting harvests in the above system. Worms and undigested food could be returned to the bin. (I haven't done this myself. Just an idea).
Hi there! I built a two five gallon bucket for composting last year but it's never done much. I came across your video the other day and got it going this afternoon. I've ordered my worms and hopefully they will be here next week. I really like your channel and hope you continue to put out great ideas. Thanks very much!!
After half watching a bunch of videos that did not explain the process, or were too complicated and labor intensive, and basically did not address "fast easy effective" for a beginner... THIS is a HOME RUN and is worthy of a spot in my saved videos! Im assuming it's scalable to larger totes? And how many worms would you order for a 20 gal system? How much bedding? If I wanted to keep this outside, what are the temps and heating options?
Very glad to hear this, you can scale to larger totes but you'll need to support more. For a 20gal I'd start with 2lb and go from there. You need to keep above 50f
@@craftyfeminist Worm farms should be located in a cool, shaded part of your property, such as under a tree. With the temperatures you are describing, on those days when it's really hot, I would suggest finding a space to move them inside somewhere cooler, such as a garage or laundry room.
@@craftyfeminist I read elsewhere that they slow down as it gets hotter, and the upper limit is about 100 F, but they will have been getting sleepy before that’s reached, I guess
Or you could by 2 totes, and use the extra lid for the reservoir/drainage. Pick up the totes and pour it to a new container or straight to your plants. Save money, and it makes it easy to see when the reservoir is close to full/overflowing.
we dont put a drain thing in - just a bigger hole in one corner of each bin. we set them up on an angle to drain to that corner and sit them in a larger lid ( can be bought separately) which also has a hole cut in the same corner .. we put our collection pot for worm tea under that corner. The boxes can be rotated when it is necessary to rotate the system - not often.
Thank you for this. I have vermicomposting for several years and have tried different ways to remove the compost without the worms. I made a tower like this last summer, and now am ready to collect the poo. I had it backward, I thought you left the full one on top and started another one on the second level. I'll fix that in a jiffy and hopefully my wormies will be moving on up to the top soon. Thanks for the video, very easy to understand.
I made one with "stack & carry" bins I bought at Job Lot and that can probably be found at any craft store. They are perfect and don't have as much extra plastic as using bins like these.
Great video! If you install the drain hole close to the transition of the side and bottom of the container you can drain the juice all the way to the bottom.
Use 1×4's or 1×6's along the sides, in between each bin, for added support, stability and airflow. Will shift weight bearing to bins sides instead of compacting contents. Should allow for more contents per bin and allow for 1 or 2 extra levels to be added. That way, most, if not all, of the worms will be in the top two levels, making it safe to remove and use the bottom level without losing much, if any, worms. Just make sure to start the next level as soon as the contents makes contact with the next level. Hope this helps. ;-)
I am preparing to do this and this is the best system yet makes the most sense. Now is there follow-up I will search. Again thank you for yet another quality video to encourage newbies to start this journey.♥️👍🏻🇨🇦
Im not scared of spiders or cockroaches or snakes, but the moment i see a worn im squimish and out of the garden. but this is really making me sort of face my fears and build a worm farm ....
For your drainage l would put the outlet on side bottom rather than the bottom. Than cut some garden soaker hose the length of the bin attached to the outlet. This would act like a French drain, collecting the water and filtering out the particles to help prevent the drainage from clogging. If the drain faucet still clogs. You could switch to a screw on hose cap, either brass or plastic, or a screwing extendable stopper. They sell these at automobile parts stores for leaky oil pans. They also sell extendable stoppers at good hardware stores.
This video is great. I love this guy. He is likable, simple, shows you how to do it, and the video is straight and to the point. Question: Can I keep this outside in summer if it's 110 degrees where I live. I really don't want to keep them inside but I also don't want them to overheat and die.
Have one in Texas. Too hot outside for mine. But if you don't overload with too much food never had a smell issue over a three year period. Drained off worm tea for house plants.
I appreciate your channel & work. I think if you put the cooler drain in from the side it will actually be able to drain lower and make no impediment to where you put the hotel on the shelf, except for access from a side or an end.
Love to see where you started! I just discovered your channel today watching container berry gardening, and then to this, after I saw your worm home you have now 😎😎 I am still figuring out where to start, I'm so glad your channel exists!!! Looking forward to learning along with all your subscribers✌🏽💕 Farmers!!!
My twist on this is to put a couple inch layer of charcoal (from burning pure hardwood, not Kingsford) on the bottom. that will keep the worms out of the juice. Replace the charcoal every couple of months and use it as biochar in the garden.
If you wanted to, you can file, cut, notch, or grind the inside of your cooler drain to just the height of the nut. A couple slices with a hachsaw should do the job.
I have been doing a lot of research into vermicomposting and found this to be one of the most helpful videos, thank you! will let you know how it goes as i incinerate various different methods (i plan to put the drain on the side rather than the bottom, drilling larger holes on the sides and placing screens over them, kind of things). I just don't know if i will be doing the three stack since I imagine there is only about 6 or less inches in the middle bin, which i do not feel like would be enough space for the worms + decomposing scraps (but I am not sure, maybe by the time bins are ready to be switched out, there would be less than 6 inches of matter). anyway, thanks for the vid!
You could add a few planks of about 6 inches each to lift the bins, but then it leaves the sides more exposed. I simply built wooden trays that fit onto each other, drilled holes around the top of each side for airflow, and used galvanized netting underneath. I've found that the worms take along time to migrate upwards, so I don't bother too much with the stacking migration principle. I feed at all three heights. Busy building a manual compost sifting drum with which separating worms will be much easier and quicker.
Tobias Louw TOBIAS, that is GENIUS!!!! I know i commented on this a year ago, and due to some set backs never got started and have the bins and have used them as storage😭 and now i'm about to move again and feel like i'll never get to it, all this research and no time to execute😭😭😭
The bins will be very difficult to separate once all materials and water have been added. I would place some kind of shim between each bin prior to stacking. They need to be able to be pull out so make them "grab-able". The vacuum that will be created on stacked bins makes it very difficult to separate bins. Plus, the constant pressure on the bins on each other is physically jamming the bins together. The shims will allow air to flow and will stop a vacuum from being created. Pieces of rope may work. I use wood shim on my buckets. Ever try and separate buckets with nothing in them? Finger nail rippers!
@@janinebean4276 Depends on the location of the holes. Most bins fit with just 3-5 inches of space between the bottom of the top bin to the bottom of the stacked-on bin. That conserves space when storing storage bins one inside the other. I am goin to make some spacers to get more room for bedding material on my next go around. They will be vertical, about5" long (long enough to raise the bin more than is just placed on top).That leaves plenty of room for air holes. The distance between air-holes and the loose fitting top of my bins (sometimes removed from the worm bin) is 2". I do not keep the bedding as wet as others mention on the various worm farm videos. Worms do not like water, they will try and get away from it by rising to the surface or climbing out of the bin. I do not have a "worm tea bin" at all. There should never be enough water poured into the worm bins to create a drip. I use a third bin as a coaster more or ;less, not as a worm tea receptacle. The bedding needs to be damp. When I squeeze the bedding it clumps but does not drip any water. I leave the tops of my bins off when the bedding is getting too moist due to humidity. I aim a fan just above the bins for air circulation to help with moisture build-up during high humidity ort I I put too much water in the bin.
@@winstonsmiths2449 thanks for the tips! Yeah I expect you could even drill a piece of 2x4 or something to the corners to prop up the bin above it and prevent the bin above it from sinking low enough to form a vacuum
Thanks for your worm video. I have watched several and yours is the best for newbies, I liked the in practice part that described it detail of exactly how it works. Most others did not detail this enough and I had to keep searching until I found a video with enough details. So thank you and keep up the great work..
Can tell from the price quotes for the roughneck totes that this video was made pre-pandemic and inflation. "Cheap" totes are now over 17 dollars while the sturdy roughneck totes run about 30 to over 100 each. Still a really great video though! Juice drainage if unable and temporarily (or ongoing if making a smaller apartment dweller sized worm bin) until able to obtain spout -- add intact tote on bottom to catch liquid. Have to lift others off to pour and dump the liquid, but will you get by until able to a get a drainage spout. Bricks or blocks in bottom tote to keep next one elevated above liquid levels if worried about too much liquid between emptying depending upon space (or lack of) between top of liquid and the tote above it.
I'm trying to understand this lol. So from top to bottom if we have bins A, B, and C.... 1. Fill top bin "A" with worms, bedding, food scraps, etc? And let that be for a good amount of time? 2. Then switch bin "A" and "B"? Put bin "B" (the middle bin) on the top and let bin "A" be the new middle bin? 3. Fill the new top bin (the empty bin) with bedding, food scraps, etc. 4. When all of the worms move up to the new top bin, then we have the good left overs in the middle bin, no sorting really needed?
I'm no expert but I think you're right. You could probably start with putting the worms in bin B though, if they already are living in partially digested food, while immediately adding new bedding and food to bin A. This way you will be able to harvest the original material they were living in (now in bin B) faster. If this is your very first worm set up you would start with worms bedding and food in A though as you said. Again, no expert, but that's how I understood this system
the tier bins ive seen have initial worms in the middle bin and when they are finishing the food and you want to harcest castings, you put food in the top bin and they prefer to crawl u;pward, as they go to the surface to feed usually. its ok downward as they always seek food but they will go up first. I use one bin and will horizontal feed to collect castings.
Thank you for also explaining how to rotate. This is probably the 20th DIY composting bin video I have watched tonight, and ALL but yours assumed us 1st timers already knew. YOU RULE! Thank you! Thank you!
When you move the bin of worms to the middle. Is it filled so high that the top tote makes contact with the compost in the middle bin? Or do you have some space between the top of the compost and the top bin so there's more airflow and the worms have to traverse some air space to crawl up to the fresh food?
That's my question too. Hope Epic Kevin will answer soon. I'm assuming that the upper bin's base does sit right on the lower worms' bed. Also, I'm afraid the air holes on upper sides will be blocked by the sides of the upper bin when it's put in place. Confused.
yes they make contact . also if making vermicompost bin with this method then you can address issue of cooler drainer valve by cutting it to height and epoxy gluing it.. another method without capturing the leechate and creating drainage system can be found in this video i recently found below ... i will try the three tier with drainage good luck th-cam.com/video/AF-jzWKMdwE/w-d-xo.html
@@elleg4093 Depends on the epoxy. There is aquarium grade that is used to blut the glass sides of an aquarium together. Those need to be waterresisant and non toxic so they won't damage the marine life.
How is the system going? The problems that I could foresee with this system ... the upper vents of the middle bin get closed as the material in it gets compacted due to the weight of the top bin. Further, it will get stuck with the bottom of the top bin and will be difficult to separate them. If you put a spacer to prevent that then, the worms will not be able to climb up to the top bin as, the lower portion compacts. Which will create some gap between the two bins.
Would the worms be better consumers if they re warmer ? I plan to start a worm bin inside my outdoor greenhouse to supply a little heat. On the colder winter nights would they benefit from under heating like a plant tray warmer ??
Thank you for your video. I didn’t understand how the worm farm works until I watched this video. May I ask if there is any smell from the worm farm? Like the bad smell from food. And if I put the worm farm outside, will the heat kill the worms?
I recently set up my bin following your technique. It is very new but in doing a bit more research I read that the liquid in the bottom bin is actually leachate and can be anaerobic and if you want to make worm ‘tea’, you should use the castings. Can you speak to this?
Thank you so much for this video. We are learning about conservation in my classroom and this is the perfect project to get rid of leftover lunch food.
Awesome system, but i have two questions: 1. With the first bin filled and placed in the middle, wouldn't that make the whole setup too big to fit in the frame you are using? 2. Arent you afraid worms will crawl out of the holes in the side?
How are the worms going to fit going into the new box when they end up all plump (fat)...what size holes did you drill? Thanks this is a good idea. What temp is good for the worms?
I used a flush mount PVC faucet that I used silicone to attach and seal. Once the silicone set a drilled three holes equidistance around the flange and bolted it, 1/4"dx3/4"l roundhead brass bolts work fine.
I love the worm farm. I'm copying it as we speak. Thank you. But that shelf... i don't know who built it, but they definately have an ivy league degree.
im confused. when you move the top bin to the middle and put the empty bin on top, wouldnt they get squished? or does it just rest on the dirt and the whole structure is taller now.
My compost worms just arrived, but next morning they were up at the lid trying to escape. Now I added the food scraps but they are not doing their work…..not one is busy with eating and composting….some still trying to escape. Why? Is it too hot (18-23 degrees celsius) or not enough air (I drilled wholes around the edge under the lid)...or the soil may be too wet or too dry ?
I need help with my worm bins. I made this set up 2 years ago after watching your video. We’ve had a lot of rain and it’s been about 40° to 44° at night. (I’m in Las Vegas, NV.) I keep the worms in the (closed) garage by the door to the house. I believed this would be warmer and protected from the elements. This winter the worms are collecting around the rim and lid. They didn’t do that last winter. I’m not sure if I need to change out the dirt or if it’s too cold? I’m not sure what to do.
I think I would have put the drainage faucet on the front end instead of the bottom. I would have used some E6000 to make sure it was totally secure. I might have also put a regular faucet-type plug to which I could attach a short piece of water hose. That would make it even easier to turn the valve on and off and to direct the liquid flow to pretty much any container I wanted to use. EDIT: I think I would also want to possibly build a small wagon for it so that I could just wheel it right into the garden to empty the compost wherever I was wanting to use it. Plus if I wanted to add some of the worms directly to my garden it would be super easy as well. The wagon would also make it possible to provide some heating pads like you do for starting plants indoors to get ahead of the growing season. Worms hate cold surfaces and if the weather got super cold you would otherwise need to bring them into your house to protect them. Low grade heating pads could possibly provide warmth as you place them around the sides and bottom of the bins.
How much bedding do you put in the top bin ? Also do the bins sit on top of the bedding and food ? If you have bedding why are you feeding them scraps ? Can't they just eat the bedding ?
@Epic Gardening What a cool design! I'm planning to build one and have a few questions. 1. I purchased clear bins. Will this be a problem for letting in too much light or is the day/night cycle enough for them? 2. How far apart are the holes (sides and bottom)? 3. I live in a zone 3 area. Will it get too hot in the bin if I keep it outside? 4. How do you prevent compost/worms from falling through the holes into the liquid bin, especially at the very beginning when there aren't any castings to block the holes?
I used to have a mini roughneck system with 2 bins. They say it can't be done, but I managed to gather enough redworms in my yard to seed it. I miss those little guys, should start again!!!
Maybe I missed it but what is the purpose of the middle tote? I understand the bottom tote for castings/liquid and I understand the top tote as the main habitat, but why include the middle? Thanks. Great Video!
Using couple 5 gallon buckets inside a 7 gallon of the same diameter Brass bulkhead fitting will get you near lipless draining Slitting the buckets with a metal saw blade of grinder disk that quasi over lap at a slight angle will stop all climbing Love🥰 the video 😎
I still don’t know what worm castings are. I’ve watched so many videos on Vermicompostong and it sounds like if a worm were to shed their skin or molt lol. I just got into gardening this spring and I have so much room to garden but have an issue with too much shade so I figure until I get areas cleared out to plant an actual garden I’ll work on prepping the soil. It’s all red clay and some areas have tons of gravel and it’s going to be a lot of work to prep!
You don't need to have a drain in the tote...this is because in a well working system you really should not be producing leachate and therefore no holes needed on bottom of any tote. Don't overfeed, fluff bedding prior to feeding and get your hands in there to learn how the bedding is supposed to feel. Feeding should be covered up by fresh bedding to avoid attracting other insects (mites and other pesky critters). if possible your food scraps should be frozen and thawed the day before a feeding. The freezing processes help break down cell walls and begins the decomposition process. Don't forget to sprinkle some grit over the feeding. Grit can be very fine crushed eggshells, sand, or crushed oyster shells. Other than that love the video.
I don’t really understand the part about where you swap the first and second bin. Could you explain further? Or do you have another video with progress update that maybe will have more jnfo
Plaster of Paris. Raise one end of the tote placing a brick or 2 x 4 under the same end as the drain plug. Put a wine cork in the plug and pour the plaster of Paris into the bottom of the tote thus creating a small incline in the bottom of the tote. Remove wine cork after plaster has hardened.
Can I use a rain barrel 55 gallon ??? It cracked in half so I flexesealed it . Done want the flexeseal to poison the water in the summer so I thought it can be a huge worm farm . Going to fill with 20% dirt , then old food then peat coco 20% more food scraps , some leaves and more coco !!
I Would put the drain on the front side at the bottom. just pop it open let it drain grab a piece of wood, lift up back side of bin, place piece of wood, close valve and remove wood.. or you can put the bin on a very slight incline on the back and just leave it that way.
Keep the warm videos coming so I’ll know what to do I hate going to bunch of different people because everybody has their own way so I’m trying to just stick with you for my gardening tips and now my worm tips thank you so much Dana 😊from Colorado
my larger "cheap" plant pots that come with purchased plants - I stack them with compost and soil mixed in - rotate them with new compost... has become a mini worm tower...
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One thing to add is some small wood blocks on the inside of the bottom two totes. Place them an inch or two above where the other tote naturally rests inside. This will save you a hell of a wrestling match later trying to detach them to switch them out.
Great comment. I was thinking same thing.
how small are we talking here?
can I use hard wood mulch for that? Thank you
Thank you for making videos for the average person. You don’t talk excessively at the beginning giving an intro- you just get into it- thank you! You give the easiest, most cost effective way to do things and explain in layman’s terms. I really appreciate your videos!
lol he doesnt actually know what tf he is doing. He just copies other blogs online. If u follow his advice u will build a horrible worm composting system. Good luck!
i made a bin like this once, it did work. however, the way the totes nest together does not allow much space in the bottom and middle. the bottom wasn't such a big deal as long as i kept it fairly drained. but the middle bin was an issue. if 'too full' which does not take much, the top bin rests upon the medium in the middle bin, potentially compacting it, and it allowed a gap between the middle and top bins and other bugs easily got inside. this can be ok in an indoor bug-free and rodent-free area. outdoors it was a messy disaster. if possible, try to get bins of different depths that still stack. and keep in mind that the material in the middle bin needs to be deep enough to reach the bottom of the top bin so the worms can migrate up. the worm juice i made kept my orchids blooming year round in sothern california.
That's what i kept thinking too and you confirmed it. There's just not that much distance for any respectable volume in this stacked style. Single bin with only air holes could be filled all the way to the top pretty much
Try pickle buckets from Firehouse Subs. They cost 2 dollars each. Are food safe so worm safe, and the money goes to Firefighters. I love NOT dying in fires, so whatever little I can do for them I do :)
That's rad. Will look up!
thank you for this great suggestion! So do you buy 3 to create this method and get a drain for the bottom?
To be fair, have you tried dying in a fire?
I assume it sucks, but is it fair to assume things?
@@SmartWentCrazy unfortunately buckets don't work as well. You want something with more surface area vs deep
@bill bye, I haven’t died in a fire but I lost my office to a fire. It’s a rather traumatic experience.
I watching this after trying to do a two story worm bin where we were dumping about 15 lbs a week in food waste. ...so granted, mine was quite a big larger than a typical single person would produce and it filled the whole bin within a month. A problem I encountered was that the weight of the bins on top seemed to have compressed the materials below. This caused some drainage problems for me. Solution: add spacers to keep the weight of the top bins from directly compressing the lower bins.
Yeah, you have to use supports - good call!
We are a family of nine and have a lot of food waste, we are looking into a worm farm. Any idea how many 3 story totes we would need if we do 15lbs a week?
@@yvetterose7632 1kg or 2.2lbs food maximum (per 1000 to 2000 worms) per week. 1 sq foot of worm bin living space per 1lb of food per week BUT no more than about 8 to 10 inches deep per 1000 worms. They won't always eat it all so don't feed again until old food is gone or remove old food before adding more or if previous food starts to mold or smell. Will also eat it much faster if food is broken down very tiny or processed in blender first (smaller but not liquified) rather than tossing in larger pieces.
@@epicgardeninghey would really appreciate your answer on this question : where can I sell them, for what price and how to transport them to my customer? Thank you a lot shalom!
@@yvetterose7632look into black soldier flies too! They can compost anything, junkfood, meats, cheeses, fats. Amazing creatures and not tacky and annoying like a house fly. If you have birds, they're larva make some of the best poultry protein.
Hi Kevin, great video. This is an excellent design for worm bins. Can you do a follow-up video on how your worms are doing and how you harvest the castings and rotate bins?
Great idea, I would love to see a follow-up because I built a stackable worm farm, but they are not crawling up to the top bin.
@@sandrafarkas3606 That's what I was wondering, as well as whether the castings would actually fall to the middle bin. I was looking for an easy way to harvest castings, but I'm not sure this is it.
@@debbyhughes2208 hi Debby! So the worm castings don’t fall to the middle bin. Once you notice the top bin is starting to get full of worm castings, you move the top bin to the middle. Now the top bin is empty. You start putting food in the top bin, and wait for the worms to crawl up the hole to find food. Once you notice the worms have crawled to the top bin, you can remove the castings from the middle bin!
@@gabrielledotson4450 so should we put dirt in the top bin along with food scraps so they climb up? Or just food scraps? Also, drainage in all bins too? I was a bit confused in that part
@@solitary.witch0077 yes i think that you got the idea now, they cycle the top and middle bins to harvest the castings. im a little concerned if the worms would have some trouble crawling up but i guess the only way to find out is to make it. also try looking around hardware or gardening stores for something like those bins :)
Great video. I drill a hole of about 5 inches at the bottom of my plastic worm bin and simply glue on a patch of fine netting, for the liquid to pass through, and glue a little plank at the bottom of the other side, to ensure an inclination in the direction of the drainage hole. I place them next to each other and the liquids just run out into the soil. With our mild African bushveld temperature (hot summers and winters never below 0, no snow and no frost even) I leave the bins plus a 4-tier wooden worm box I built, below a huge ficus tree in the garden. Now watching the two systems over some months to see how they compare.
I have oil barrels buried in my yard with holes drilled in them. There is also irrigation ran to them. One in each corner of my yard. My worms free range.
You lose the tea in that method, but you don't need to buy worms or worry about fluctuating temperatures. Pros and cons.
I hope and pray that my future husband will be passionate about gardening and loving the land the way you do!
You say that.... Until I make a mess mixing a batch of soil in the living room at 2am. ;)
Don’t wait do it yourself 🤔
Marry me
@@sandySuccess2570 🌹
@@Mi_amor12345 🌹💍
Just for anyone's info.....worms love used coffee grounds also, and for me that means a whole filter full of food for them every morning and a great place to get rid of your grounds. I also use them in my outdoor compost bins. Also....you have to have some height on the bulkhead fitting (just another name for the cooler drain and used in boats) and the reason why is because you have to have some height for the threads that the nut goes on. Them make them a bit long for different thickness materials. i use them on full 1/4" thick rainwater barrels, totes aren't that thick so just cut some of the threads off with a razor knife after you install the nut on and tighten it, easy peasy. Also if you put that fitting in the corner that is the lowest part of the tote. and looks like there is room for it there.
When I modified my vermicompost bin for worm juice collection, I drilled a hole and used a piece of fish tank filter tube and drilled the hole a hair smaller so the tube would fit snug. It drained into an old pickle bucket with a lid and two holes drilled. I don't waste a drop of it! I had to transition to a bin under it now bc my bin is booming and I needed more room lol.
Good job! I’m glad to hear success stories as I venture on trying. Thanks!
what do you do with the worm juice?
NagashiChidorii put it on your garden. It’s soil builder.
Catherine Grace thank you! Good luck with your channel
@@NagashiChidorii dilute and feed plants
I’m always reminded how much I love your channel when I search for something and click on a video and then find out it’s yours! You give so much great information!
Why not put drain on end of the bin, at the margin of the base and side. One could tip the bin forward slightly and drain out nearly all the liquid. Advantage is the bin isn't sitting on the drain spout and a container to collect liquid is easily placed under the drain.
Yeah, totally could do that. I wanted a barrel tap which would have been easier to do that with, but couldn't find one on short notice. I have a few improvements to this design already in my head, so I might do another video about it in the next month or two :)
Yes please let us see the update
@@epicgardening hi, is there a new video? or suggestions I need to know before I start my hotel?
@@flexitarianbeanqueen same here!
@@frihaug I went ahead and designed one with a spout on the front, instead of in the bottom. And I didnt find a spout for sale. I used one from a laundry detergent jug!!! My husband did all the work for me. What a peach!! 😍
Heat the plastic around the drain and mold it out so all the juices goes to the drain.
Do several holes on the bottom, put screen on it and have a drip tray. Pour it each day on your plants or in a jar.
Also works quite well!
use the extra lids as a tray!
would just need a 2 tier + drip tray in that case..constant draining of the leachate would fix the health issues thats asscociated with using it on food plants
@@elephantsong7782 what are the health issues?
Or... divide one bin into two compartments with a center divider (parallel to the longest side of the bin). Fill one side up with vegi scraps until it has built up a foot higher. Remove the divider. Start filling the empty side with fresh food. The worms will migrate over. When it has risen up to be on the level, harvest the worm castings on the old side, digging down a foot. Start filling the new cavity with food until it rises up to be even. Harvest. Put food in the cavity. Repeat indefinitely. A base of material under both sides is advisable so migration is never hindered. When I harvest compost I always screen it. Same could be done for the casting harvests in the above system. Worms and undigested food could be returned to the bin. (I haven't done this myself. Just an idea).
Hi there! I built a two five gallon bucket for composting last year but it's never done much. I came across your video the other day and got it going this afternoon. I've ordered my worms and hopefully they will be here next week. I really like your channel and hope you continue to put out great ideas. Thanks very much!!
I'm actually about to build my 30gallon worm farm today.. came back to refresh my memory and make sure I get everything right.. thanks for help
0:03 - “shh! Don’t wake the worms!” 7:07 - *WHAM WHAM WHAM WHAM WHAM WHAM*
😂😂😂
dont forget when he catapults them to their new home
kekw
@@bigsby6989 you made me lol xd
7:18 after dumping the worms.... lol his face
Bruh LMAO
Lmao those worms be eating perfectly good spring mix
They're Boujee worms
@@jamesR1990 love this.😂
Ikr
You’ve never had a salad…
this comment is so funny i didnt even notice at first
After half watching a bunch of videos that did not explain the process, or were too complicated and labor intensive, and basically did not address "fast easy effective" for a beginner... THIS is a HOME RUN and is worthy of a spot in my saved videos!
Im assuming it's scalable to larger totes? And how many worms would you order for a 20 gal system? How much bedding? If I wanted to keep this outside, what are the temps and heating options?
Very glad to hear this, you can scale to larger totes but you'll need to support more. For a 20gal I'd start with 2lb and go from there. You need to keep above 50f
@@craftyfeminist Worm farms should be located in a cool, shaded part of your property, such as under a tree. With the temperatures you are describing, on those days when it's really hot, I would suggest finding a space to move them inside somewhere cooler, such as a garage or laundry room.
@@craftyfeminist I read elsewhere that they slow down as it gets hotter, and the upper limit is about 100 F, but they will have been getting sleepy before that’s reached, I guess
Or you could by 2 totes, and use the extra lid for the reservoir/drainage. Pick up the totes and pour it to a new container or straight to your plants. Save money, and it makes it easy to see when the reservoir is close to full/overflowing.
we dont put a drain thing in - just a bigger hole in one corner of each bin. we set them up on an angle to drain to that corner and sit them in a larger lid ( can be bought separately) which also has a hole cut in the same corner .. we put our collection pot for worm tea under that corner. The boxes can be rotated when it is necessary to rotate the system - not often.
Thank you for this. I have vermicomposting for several years and have tried different ways to remove the compost without the worms. I made a tower like this last summer, and now am ready to collect the poo. I had it backward, I thought you left the full one on top and started another one on the second level. I'll fix that in a jiffy and hopefully my wormies will be moving on up to the top soon. Thanks for the video, very easy to understand.
I made one with "stack & carry" bins I bought at Job Lot and that can probably be found at any craft store. They are perfect and don't have as much extra plastic as using bins like these.
Creative!
Great video! If you install the drain hole close to the transition of the side and bottom of the container you can drain the juice all the way to the bottom.
Use 1×4's or 1×6's along the sides, in between each bin, for added support, stability and airflow. Will shift weight bearing to bins sides instead of compacting contents. Should allow for more contents per bin and allow for 1 or 2 extra levels to be added. That way, most, if not all, of the worms will be in the top two levels, making it safe to remove and use the bottom level without losing much, if any, worms. Just make sure to start the next level as soon as the contents makes contact with the next level. Hope this helps. ;-)
wouldn't pic be better? just take some small diameter pic and make a skelton on the bottom of each bin hey?
I am preparing to do this and this is the best system yet makes the most sense. Now is there follow-up I will search. Again thank you for yet another quality video to encourage newbies to start this journey.♥️👍🏻🇨🇦
Im not scared of spiders or cockroaches or snakes, but the moment i see a worn im squimish and out of the garden. but this is really making me sort of face my fears and build a worm farm ....
try small at first and build your way up then it wont be as scary :) hope you give some worms a happy home
For your drainage l would put the outlet on side bottom rather than the bottom. Than cut some garden soaker hose the length of the bin attached to the outlet. This would act like a French drain, collecting the water and filtering out the particles to help prevent the drainage from clogging. If the drain faucet still clogs. You could switch to a screw on hose cap, either brass or plastic, or a screwing extendable stopper. They sell these at automobile parts stores for leaky oil pans. They also sell extendable stoppers at good hardware stores.
This video is great. I love this guy. He is likable, simple, shows you how to do it, and the video is straight and to the point. Question: Can I keep this outside in summer if it's 110 degrees where I live. I really don't want to keep them inside but I also don't want them to overheat and die.
Have one in Texas. Too hot outside for mine. But if you don't overload with too much food never had a smell issue over a three year period. Drained off worm tea for house plants.
I think I'll cheap-out even more and try using a cork instead of buying a drain spout thingy.😁
Yea i live in 2 story building
Those worm have 3
Life is unfair
😂
Lmfao!
I've always wanted an indoor pool across the entire ground floor.
Do basements and attics count?
Rakasiwiii fiddihaq 😂😂
I appreciate your channel & work.
I think if you put the cooler drain in from the side it will actually be able to drain lower and make no impediment to where you put the hotel on the shelf, except for access from a side or an end.
Love to see where you started! I just discovered your channel today watching container berry gardening, and then to this, after I saw your worm home you have now 😎😎 I am still figuring out where to start, I'm so glad your channel exists!!! Looking forward to learning along with all your subscribers✌🏽💕
Farmers!!!
My twist on this is to put a couple inch layer of charcoal (from burning pure hardwood, not Kingsford) on the bottom. that will keep the worms out of the juice. Replace the charcoal every couple of months and use it as biochar in the garden.
Nice call
If you wanted to, you can file, cut, notch, or grind the inside of your cooler drain to just the height of the nut. A couple slices with a hachsaw should do the job.
I have been doing a lot of research into vermicomposting and found this to be one of the most helpful videos, thank you! will let you know how it goes as i incinerate various different methods (i plan to put the drain on the side rather than the bottom, drilling larger holes on the sides and placing screens over them, kind of things). I just don't know if i will be doing the three stack since I imagine there is only about 6 or less inches in the middle bin, which i do not feel like would be enough space for the worms + decomposing scraps (but I am not sure, maybe by the time bins are ready to be switched out, there would be less than 6 inches of matter). anyway, thanks for the vid!
You're welcome and good luck!
You could add a few planks of about 6 inches each to lift the bins, but then it leaves the sides more exposed. I simply built wooden trays that fit onto each other, drilled holes around the top of each side for airflow, and used galvanized netting underneath. I've found that the worms take along time to migrate upwards, so I don't bother too much with the stacking migration principle. I feed at all three heights. Busy building a manual compost sifting drum with which separating worms will be much easier and quicker.
Tobias Louw TOBIAS, that is GENIUS!!!! I know i commented on this a year ago, and due to some set backs never got started and have the bins and have used them as storage😭 and now i'm about to move again and feel like i'll never get to it, all this research and no time to execute😭😭😭
The bins will be very difficult to separate once all materials and water have been added. I would place some kind of shim between each bin prior to stacking. They need to be able to be pull out so make them "grab-able". The vacuum that will be created on stacked bins makes it very difficult to separate bins. Plus, the constant pressure on the bins on each other is physically jamming the bins together. The shims will allow air to flow and will stop a vacuum from being created. Pieces of rope may work. I use wood shim on my buckets. Ever try and separate buckets with nothing in them? Finger nail rippers!
wouldn't the holes prevent a vacuum forming?
@@janinebean4276 Depends on the location of the holes. Most bins fit with just 3-5 inches of space between the bottom of the top bin to the bottom of the stacked-on bin. That conserves space when storing storage bins one inside the other. I am goin to make some spacers to get more room for bedding material on my next go around. They will be vertical, about5" long (long enough to raise the bin more than is just placed on top).That leaves plenty of room for air holes.
The distance between air-holes and the loose fitting top of my bins (sometimes removed from the worm bin) is 2". I do not keep the bedding as wet as others mention on the various worm farm videos. Worms do not like water, they will try and get away from it by rising to the surface or climbing out of the bin. I do not have a "worm tea bin" at all. There should never be enough water poured into the worm bins to create a drip. I use a third bin as a coaster more or ;less, not as a worm tea receptacle. The bedding needs to be damp. When I squeeze the bedding it clumps but does not drip any water. I leave the tops of my bins off when the bedding is getting too moist due to humidity. I aim a fan just above the bins for air circulation to help with moisture build-up during high humidity ort I I put too much water in the bin.
@@winstonsmiths2449 thanks for the tips! Yeah I expect you could even drill a piece of 2x4 or something to the corners to prop up the bin above it and prevent the bin above it from sinking low enough to form a vacuum
Thanks for your worm video. I have watched several and yours is the best for newbies, I liked the in practice part that described it detail of exactly how it works. Most others did not detail this enough and I had to keep searching until I found a video with enough details. So thank you and keep up the great work..
Can tell from the price quotes for the roughneck totes that this video was made pre-pandemic and inflation. "Cheap" totes are now over 17 dollars while the sturdy roughneck totes run about 30 to over 100 each.
Still a really great video though!
Juice drainage if unable and temporarily (or ongoing if making a smaller apartment dweller sized worm bin) until able to obtain spout -- add intact tote on bottom to catch liquid. Have to lift others off to pour and dump the liquid, but will you get by until able to a get a drainage spout. Bricks or blocks in bottom tote to keep next one elevated above liquid levels if worried about too much liquid between emptying depending upon space (or lack of) between top of liquid and the tote above it.
I'm trying to understand this lol. So from top to bottom if we have bins
A, B, and C....
1. Fill top bin "A" with worms, bedding, food scraps, etc? And let that be for a good amount of time?
2. Then switch bin "A" and "B"? Put bin "B" (the middle bin) on the top and let bin "A" be the new middle bin?
3. Fill the new top bin (the empty bin) with bedding, food scraps, etc.
4. When all of the worms move up to the new top bin, then we have the good left overs in the middle bin, no sorting really needed?
I'm no expert but I think you're right. You could probably start with putting the worms in bin B though, if they already are living in partially digested food, while immediately adding new bedding and food to bin A. This way you will be able to harvest the original material they were living in (now in bin B) faster.
If this is your very first worm set up you would start with worms bedding and food in A though as you said.
Again, no expert, but that's how I understood this system
the tier bins ive seen have initial worms in the middle bin and when they are finishing the food and you want to harcest castings, you put food in the top bin and they prefer to crawl u;pward, as they go to the surface to feed usually. its ok downward as they always seek food but they will go up first. I use one bin and will horizontal feed to collect castings.
Thank you for also explaining how to rotate. This is probably the 20th DIY composting bin video I have watched tonight, and ALL but yours assumed us 1st timers already knew. YOU RULE! Thank you! Thank you!
I try to take the approach of always being a beginner :)
Some try to make it out to be harder than it is. It is super simple
When you move the bin of worms to the middle. Is it filled so high that the top tote makes contact with the compost in the middle bin? Or do you have some space between the top of the compost and the top bin so there's more airflow and the worms have to traverse some air space to crawl up to the fresh food?
That's my question too. Hope Epic Kevin will answer soon. I'm assuming that the upper bin's base does sit right on the lower worms' bed. Also, I'm afraid the air holes on upper sides will be blocked by the sides of the upper bin when it's put in place. Confused.
yes they make contact . also if making vermicompost bin with this method then you can address issue of cooler drainer valve by cutting it to height and epoxy gluing it..
another method without capturing the leechate and creating drainage system can be found in this video i recently found below ...
i will try the three tier with drainage
good luck
th-cam.com/video/AF-jzWKMdwE/w-d-xo.html
@@psychopomp_1st I wouldn’t think epoxy is good for your worms or compost
@@elleg4093 Depends on the epoxy. There is aquarium grade that is used to blut the glass sides of an aquarium together. Those need to be waterresisant and non toxic so they won't damage the marine life.
How is the system going? The problems that I could foresee with this system ... the upper vents of the middle bin get closed as the material in it gets compacted due to the weight of the top bin. Further, it will get stuck with the bottom of the top bin and will be difficult to separate them. If you put a spacer to prevent that then, the worms will not be able to climb up to the top bin as, the lower portion compacts. Which will create some gap between the two bins.
You’ve been doing this forever. And I find all the videos still helpful
Simple to follow, my 4 year old is ready to get started!
Wow. It's good to look back on old videos to see how far you've come. This is a good video though. Thank you. 💜
this video is AMAZING best useful easy to understand tutorial I've seen on ANY subject in years. concise. thank you
I pray one day I'll be that good with a drill
thank you my neigh is gifting me worm this morning and i need to do this for my new garden helpers...
Would the worms be better consumers if they re warmer ? I plan to start a worm bin inside my outdoor greenhouse to supply a little heat. On the colder winter nights would they benefit from under heating like a plant tray warmer ??
if you had the rear feet slightly raised, the juices would all flow down to the tap and rise above the lip sooner. just a thought
The extra lids are great repotting surfaces!
Try putting the drain in the corner of the tub, even with the raised edge you'll be able to get a lot more worm juice out.
Great video, you can mill or shorten the cooler outlet down by sanding the height down on a sander
I've found good plans on Wood Prix site
Thank you for your video. I didn’t understand how the worm farm works until I watched this video. May I ask if there is any smell from the worm farm? Like the bad smell from food. And if I put the worm farm outside, will the heat kill the worms?
I recently set up my bin following your technique. It is very new but in doing a bit more research I read that the liquid in the bottom bin is actually leachate and can be anaerobic and if you want to make worm ‘tea’, you should use the castings. Can you speak to this?
I've heard the same thing.
The worm tea was THE best free fertilizer!
Wicked drilling speed!
You could solve the drainage by putting a board under the back so the liquid slants toward the drain
Thank you so much for this video. We are learning about conservation in my classroom and this is the perfect project to get rid of leftover lunch food.
Awesome system, but i have two questions:
1. With the first bin filled and placed in the middle, wouldn't that make the whole setup too big to fit in the frame you are using?
2. Arent you afraid worms will crawl out of the holes in the side?
How are the worms going to fit going into the new box when they end up all plump (fat)...what size holes did you drill? Thanks this is a good idea. What temp is good for the worms?
I used a flush mount PVC faucet that I used silicone to attach and seal. Once the silicone set a drilled three holes equidistance around the flange and bolted it, 1/4"dx3/4"l roundhead brass bolts work fine.
I would put the drain on the front instead of the bottom.
I would also use a larger one.
I love the worm farm. I'm copying it as we speak. Thank you.
But that shelf... i don't know who built it, but they definately have an ivy league degree.
im confused. when you move the top bin to the middle and put the empty bin on top, wouldnt they get squished? or does it just rest on the dirt and the whole structure is taller now.
From my understanding, it is sitting on the bedding/casting mixture which shouldn’t crush the worms.
My compost worms just arrived, but next morning they were up at the lid trying to escape.
Now I added the food scraps but they are not doing their work…..not one is busy with eating and composting….some still trying to escape.
Why? Is it too hot (18-23 degrees celsius) or not enough air (I drilled wholes around the edge under the lid)...or the soil may be too wet or too dry ?
I need help with my worm bins. I made this set up 2 years ago after watching your video. We’ve had a lot of rain and it’s been about 40° to 44° at night. (I’m in Las Vegas, NV.) I keep the worms in the (closed) garage by the door to the house. I believed this would be warmer and protected from the elements. This winter the worms are collecting around the rim and lid. They didn’t do that last winter. I’m not sure if I need to change out the dirt or if it’s too cold? I’m not sure what to do.
I think I would have put the drainage faucet on the front end instead of the bottom. I would have used some E6000 to make sure it was totally secure. I might have also put a regular faucet-type plug to which I could attach a short piece of water hose. That would make it even easier to turn the valve on and off and to direct the liquid flow to pretty much any container I wanted to use.
EDIT: I think I would also want to possibly build a small wagon for it so that I could just wheel it right into the garden to empty the compost wherever I was wanting to use it. Plus if I wanted to add some of the worms directly to my garden it would be super easy as well. The wagon would also make it possible to provide some heating pads like you do for starting plants indoors to get ahead of the growing season. Worms hate cold surfaces and if the weather got super cold you would otherwise need to bring them into your house to protect them. Low grade heating pads could possibly provide warmth as you place them around the sides and bottom of the bins.
How much bedding do you put in the top bin ? Also do the bins sit on top of the bedding and food ? If you have bedding why are you feeding them scraps ? Can't they just eat the bedding ?
@Epic Gardening
What a cool design! I'm planning to build one and have a few questions.
1. I purchased clear bins. Will this be a problem for letting in too much light or is the day/night cycle enough for them?
2. How far apart are the holes (sides and bottom)?
3. I live in a zone 3 area. Will it get too hot in the bin if I keep it outside?
4. How do you prevent compost/worms from falling through the holes into the liquid bin, especially at the very beginning when there aren't any castings to block the holes?
I used to have a mini roughneck system with 2 bins. They say it can't be done, but I managed to gather enough redworms in my yard to seed it. I miss those little guys, should start again!!!
Fabulous. I am going to make one for my middle school classes.
Maybe I missed it but what is the purpose of the middle tote? I understand the bottom tote for castings/liquid and I understand the top tote as the main habitat, but why include the middle? Thanks. Great Video!
Cooler drainer can go on the front and you can just tip it forward to drain, just like a normal cooler!
Favorite tutorial so far! Where do you get your worms?
awesome video, will be making a worm bin
Using couple 5 gallon buckets inside a 7 gallon of the same diameter
Brass bulkhead fitting will get you near lipless draining
Slitting the buckets with a metal saw blade of grinder disk that quasi over lap at a slight angle will stop all climbing
Love🥰 the video 😎
OMG I was searching for compost stuff and recognized you from tiktok
Wait you're on tiktok?
Lol same! just became a subscriber.
I still don’t know what worm castings are. I’ve watched so many videos on Vermicompostong and it sounds like if a worm were to shed their skin or molt lol. I just got into gardening this spring and I have so much room to garden but have an issue with too much shade so I figure until I get areas cleared out to plant an actual garden I’ll work on prepping the soil. It’s all red clay and some areas have tons of gravel and it’s going to be a lot of work to prep!
Cut of the bottom and put a large rimmed tray with a cooler drainer on it so you can remove the tray of worm juice easily
You don't need to have a drain in the tote...this is because in a well working system you really should not be producing leachate and therefore no holes needed on bottom of any tote. Don't overfeed, fluff bedding prior to feeding and get your hands in there to learn how the bedding is supposed to feel. Feeding should be covered up by fresh bedding to avoid attracting other insects (mites and other pesky critters). if possible your food scraps should be frozen and thawed the day before a feeding. The freezing processes help break down cell walls and begins the decomposition process. Don't forget to sprinkle some grit over the feeding. Grit can be very fine crushed eggshells, sand, or crushed oyster shells. Other than that love the video.
Well that was awesome! 😆👍
I would love to see a follow up video draining the worm juice. Would love to see that!👍
That was the best explanation I've heard so far, thank you
take your dremel out and file back the lip on the drain tube
Does this smell? Also where can I keep this. I have limited indoor space but a huge patio but it's in LA where we get very hot summers.
Hows this guy going to say
"We're gunna build them a hotel or motel..." and not follow up with
"... or a Holiday Inn"?
(Say what?)
Well, if your worm starts acting up, then you take her friend!
I don’t really understand the part about where you swap the first and second bin. Could you explain further? Or do you have another video with progress update that maybe will have more jnfo
As an upcoming farmer, I really love your videos..they give me motivation when i see the progress you making. keep up.. 💪💪
Plaster of Paris. Raise one end of the tote placing a brick or 2 x 4 under the same end as the drain plug. Put a wine cork in the plug and pour the plaster of Paris into the bottom of the tote thus creating a small incline in the bottom of the tote. Remove wine cork after plaster has hardened.
Does it have to be 3 tubs? Can’t I just drill 1/16 inch holes in the top tub and put over bottom tub with the liquid drain?
Can I use a rain barrel 55 gallon ??? It cracked in half so I flexesealed it . Done want the flexeseal to poison the water in the summer so I thought it can be a huge worm farm . Going to fill with 20% dirt , then old food then peat coco 20% more food scraps , some leaves and more coco !!
I Would put the drain on the front side at the bottom. just pop it open let it drain grab a piece of wood, lift up back side of bin, place piece of wood, close valve and remove wood.. or you can put the bin on a very slight incline on the back and just leave it that way.
Keep the warm videos coming so I’ll know what to do I hate going to bunch of different people because everybody has their own way so I’m trying to just stick with you for my gardening tips and now my worm tips thank you so much Dana 😊from Colorado
Picking one guy and sticking to him is so smart.
question: will the worms crawl through the 1/4 inch holes and end up down in the liquid in the bottom bin?
Yes, some small ones do. And they can’t go back up. The bins are too heavy for me to lift alone. 9:37
my larger "cheap" plant pots that come with purchased plants - I stack them with compost and soil mixed in - rotate them with new compost... has become a mini worm tower...
Damn! An old school EG video. Cool