I appreciate the detailed, helpful video. Glad I watched all the way to the end. That last piece of info is crucial - you can't do this unless you can reprogram the computer with the new rear end code! If this ever comes up with my '14, I'm going to have to take it to a pro.
Thanks for the video. Luckily I'm just replacing the rear axles and hubs on my wife's 2014 Escape Titanium that she bought three months ago from a dealership that gave her a 2 year "warranty" that doesn't cover anything, and now she's been getting a message that says "Hill Assist Not Available" along with ABS and traction control lights, AND the check engine light is on with a code for a boost leak because the nipple on the plastic charge pipe that runs from the turbo outlet to the intercooler broke off. It's the nipple for the hose that runs from the hot side charge pipe to the intake tube. They're over $100 (also not covered under warranty).
Nice video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I just had the differential/rear axle assy replaced in my 2014 Escape. This video gives me a great idea what is involved.
That is very helpful .Thanks a lot ! I successfully replaced mine the same way you did. But the question is that: Do I really need to calibrate it to the car ? If yes , would you please tell me how to do that ?
We were lucky, my manger knew a mechanic that worked at a Ford dealer. He came down with the computer and reprogramed it for us. I would get it recalibrated because it will burn it up. Thanks for watching
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore . Thanks for you time . I found a video on how to calibrate. This might help some ppl when watching your video . facebook.com/auteltools/videos/2724553337761747/
Do you think this is possible with the car on jack stands? It looks like the rear diff sits really low once everything is loose and I’m wondering if the control arms are going to hit the ground that point.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore I’ve done that to another few other trucks on customers that didn’t want to have the rear differential replaced but they were older vehicles and no issues just wasn’t awd anymore
I need the differential on my 2015 escape replaced. How long did it take for you to complete the replacement? Just wondering how many hours I should expect the labor charge to be around
The Ford dealer wouldn’t change the oil in the rear diff on my 2017 Escape so I did the job myself using Amsoil. Hopefully changing it out once in a while will prevent this from happening.
as per ford tsb 2014-0182 and 2015-0091, the rear end noise you're hearing is bc the (2) front bushings are bad (the ones you tighten @ 15:00 mark).... the noise has nothing to do with the rear diff, per se. since you didn't replace the 2 bushing/insulators, this noise is going to come back again. the part # is 7e5z-4b42-d. check out the TSB's and you will see what i'm referring to.
That might be true but the rear end that I replaced here the bearings were bad. No noise after the job and no come back on the job. I checked this one out really good before replacing the rear. I see this car every 5k for regular oil changes and all is good with it.
I have a 2015 Ford Escape making noise in the rear differential. I got a mechanic to take it for a drive and its not the wheel bearings. Im not looking forward to putting a rear differential in her. Im guessing the cost would be at least $ 1,500 and up with labour. Should I start with a fluid change in the rear differential? Thanks in advance for the advice. Awesome video also.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore I have a awd Ford fusions and it's making the noise and accelerating funny they are saying it needs a new rear diff ... can thst be true can it cause sputtering as a symptom?
I would have someone put it up in the air and confirm where the noise is coming from. If it is coming from the rear end a fluid change is not going to help. Thanks for watching
I have a 2011 ford Kuga (uk) believe its the same set up, basically the soon as you drive and turn the rear wheels are binding up and the diff is clunking badly. No warming lights on the dash etc. Any ideas what I should be checking as nothing visually seems out of place. Thanks
what is the typical noise of differential bearing? I changed both rear wheel bearing and the humming is still present. The humming cames from rear and from 10km/h. Im not sure if it is a differential bearing or kardan bearing or something else 😒😔
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore the rear end means rear differential? No chance that could be a drive shaft bearing? My "humming" noise is only humming , no knocking, clicking, whistling or screeching.... The sound is very similar to when the tires are old. Oil and filter (in defferential) were changed the last year (kuga 2014 2.0 tdci AWD manual transmission, no warning message or light )
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore If removing the rear subframe I guess it would be good to replace these bushings they are talking about in TSB 15-0091 ? Are there any other proactive measures to consider?
Can you describe the bearing noise heard from this? I am trying to diagnose the whine in my car and think it might be coming from my rear differential but can’t tell.
I thought is was a wheel bearing noise. Sounds just like a wheel bearing noise. The only way I found out was to put car in the air and have somebody run the car in gear and use a long screw driver to listen to the diff and the wheel bearings. BUT I WOULD NOT DO THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE A LIFT! You should take it to a garage and have them find out witch one it is. Thanks for watching
Hmmm... sounds like my car. Sounds like a wheel bearing noise but goes away when I coast for a few seconds but it comes back at a different pitch. I have a video of the noise on my channel so not sure if the noise would be similar.
Dude I freaking hate these new vehicles. I got a 2014 1.6l ford escape NON-Awd...... Do I have a front differential or what? Is the front differential integrated with the transmission??? I want to drain and fill it but not a single video on doing the front diff. So I am stuck. Please help.
My 2013 2.0 AWD model according to Ford has a 3.07 ratio in it. What seems to be the case is that Ford is replacing these with "S-150-D" part number. My guess is that it is 3.51 ratio and that is the reason why you need to program the ratio when the carrier is replaced. Can you confirm this is the case? If that is the case then almost any 13-16 used carrier assembly would work as long as you program the axle ratio with the code on top of the differential. I'm really trying to confirm this. Finding a 3.07 vs 3.51 on ebay is pretty difficult. Current price at Ford for this is 1343$. Mine is also making the bearing noise off acceleration and it doesn't matter if it is to the left or right. It does not make the bearing noise if accelerating off a straight line.
The noise sounds like the front pinion bearing. I do not know about the programing part I had a guy that my manger knows that works at Ford program it for us. I would say you need to replace it with the right gear ratio.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore The front pinion bearing on the carrier assembly i assume? At first thought it was an axle or bearing but it definitely sounds like it is coming from the RDU. Thank you for the reply!
I have 2007 ford and also have rdu.. Can some explain why the viscous coupler need to be programed..ford says this rdu is discounteded would new rdu work from 2013 look identical ie houseing
I appreciate the detailed, helpful video. Glad I watched all the way to the end. That last piece of info is crucial - you can't do this unless you can reprogram the computer with the new rear end code! If this ever comes up with my '14, I'm going to have to take it to a pro.
Thanks for the video. Luckily I'm just replacing the rear axles and hubs on my wife's 2014 Escape Titanium that she bought three months ago from a dealership that gave her a 2 year "warranty" that doesn't cover anything, and now she's been getting a message that says "Hill Assist Not Available" along with ABS and traction control lights, AND the check engine light is on with a code for a boost leak because the nipple on the plastic charge pipe that runs from the turbo outlet to the intercooler broke off. It's the nipple for the hose that runs from the hot side charge pipe to the intake tube. They're over $100 (also not covered under warranty).
Nice video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I just had the differential/rear axle assy replaced in my 2014 Escape. This video gives me a great idea what is involved.
I need to replace the axel shaft seals, will I need to jack the car up this high to do that?
No I do not think so. But It will make it easier.
That is very helpful .Thanks a lot ! I successfully replaced mine the same way you did. But the question is that: Do I really need to calibrate it to the car ? If yes , would you please tell me how to do that ?
We were lucky, my manger knew a mechanic that worked at a Ford dealer. He came down with the computer and reprogramed it for us. I would get it recalibrated because it will burn it up. Thanks for watching
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore . Thanks for you time . I found a video on how to calibrate.
This might help some ppl when watching your video .
facebook.com/auteltools/videos/2724553337761747/
Do you think this is possible with the car on jack stands? It looks like the rear diff sits really low once everything is loose and I’m wondering if the control arms are going to hit the ground that point.
You would have to get it pretty high off the ground to do this. Most jack stands do not go that high. Thanks for watching
If I were to remove the driveshaft would the car throw any codes since it will be running as a fwd now?
I do not think I would try that, with out the rear drive shaft installed the transmission might not engage park.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore I’ve done that to another few other trucks on customers that didn’t want to have the rear differential replaced but they were older vehicles and no issues just wasn’t awd anymore
@@ElArgentinoMasPeruano10 You can try it and see what happens.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMoreso the vehicle drives great no DTCs and no lights on dash now it’s just a FWD truck 😅
@@ElArgentinoMasPeruano10 Great good to know. Park still works Right?
Thanks for the InSite on rear diff am doing research on AWD conversion for Ford focus rally am trying to avoid rs diff
I need the differential on my 2015 escape replaced. How long did it take for you to complete the replacement? Just wondering how many hours I should expect the labor charge to be around
It took me 3/4 of a day. Maybe longer
The Ford dealer wouldn’t change the oil in the rear diff on my 2017 Escape so I did the job myself using Amsoil. Hopefully changing it out once in a while will prevent this from happening.
Do you think you could squeak the the axles out from the inside once the diff is loose?
I don't think so. They are it tight. Thanks for watching
After removing the drive shaft bolts how did you pop the drive shaft out mine seems stuck removed both braces
I really do not remember but it just stuck.
I used on of the groves put a flat head in it and just tapped it out that sucker was so stuck
as per ford tsb 2014-0182 and 2015-0091, the rear end noise you're hearing is bc the (2) front bushings are bad (the ones you tighten @ 15:00 mark).... the noise has nothing to do with the rear diff, per se. since you didn't replace the 2 bushing/insulators, this noise is going to come back again. the part # is 7e5z-4b42-d. check out the TSB's and you will see what i'm referring to.
That might be true but the rear end that I replaced here the bearings were bad. No noise after the job and no come back on the job. I checked this one out really good before replacing the rear. I see this car every 5k for regular oil changes and all is good with it.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore ok then, you’d know better than me! I myself don’t get why Ford says it’s the bushings. Good job sir.
@@DG-fe4ht I am not saying that the bushings don't go bad but this one definitely had a bad bearing in the rear end.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore copy that. Mine is in right now for bad noise coming from rear diff.
I have a 2015 Ford Escape making noise in the rear differential. I got a mechanic to take it for a drive and its not the wheel bearings. Im not looking forward to putting a rear differential in her. Im guessing the cost would be at least $ 1,500 and up with labour. Should I start with a fluid change in the rear differential? Thanks in advance for the advice. Awesome video also.
Once it starts making noise, a bearing noise. A fluid change is not going to help.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore I have a awd Ford fusions and it's making the noise and accelerating funny they are saying it needs a new rear diff ... can thst be true can it cause sputtering as a symptom?
I would have someone put it up in the air and confirm where the noise is coming from. If it is coming from the rear end a fluid change is not going to help. Thanks for watching
I have a 2011 ford Kuga (uk) believe its the same set up, basically the soon as you drive and turn the rear wheels are binding up and the diff is clunking badly. No warming lights on the dash etc. Any ideas what I should be checking as nothing visually seems out of place. Thanks
I would get it up on a lift and run it to listen for noise in the differential.
what is the typical noise of differential bearing? I changed both rear wheel bearing and the humming is still present. The humming cames from rear and from 10km/h. Im not sure if it is a differential bearing or kardan bearing or something else 😒😔
I did the same thing I replaced both rear wheel bearings and it was still making noise. It was the rear end.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore the rear end means rear differential? No chance that could be a drive shaft bearing? My "humming" noise is only humming , no knocking, clicking, whistling or screeching.... The sound is very similar to when the tires are old. Oil and filter (in defferential) were changed the last year (kuga 2014 2.0 tdci AWD manual transmission, no warning message or light )
@@devotee7985 It could be. You need to put it in the air and have someone drive so you can listen with a stethoscope.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore btw what is the price of new differential?
@@devotee7985 Sorry I do not remember
how much time was it all up to replace the diff?
It took me all day.
Are these rdu the same on old escapes and ford edges as 2007-2013
Definitely not a Edge. 2012-2019 same
and after taking the mounts off can you just slide the whole diff forward to take it out without having to drop the subframe
No
Ford has identified TSB 15-0091. Thinking this could be my issue. Can the front bushings be replaced without dropping the rear subframe?
I re-watched the video . I do not think you can. Thanks for watching
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore OK thanks for the reply.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore If removing the rear subframe I guess it would be good to replace these bushings they are talking about in TSB 15-0091 ? Are there any other proactive measures to consider?
@@skipdog77 I would do the axle bearings while you have it apart also.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore Do you use original Ford or Moog, etc? What do you recommend?
Did you ever do the RDU bushings on these?
No I have not
Can you describe the bearing noise heard from this? I am trying to diagnose the whine in my car and think it might be coming from my rear differential but can’t tell.
I thought is was a wheel bearing noise. Sounds just like a wheel bearing noise. The only way I found out was to put car in the air and have somebody run the car in gear and use a long screw driver to listen to the diff and the wheel bearings. BUT I WOULD NOT DO THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE A LIFT! You should take it to a garage and have them find out witch one it is. Thanks for watching
Hmmm... sounds like my car. Sounds like a wheel bearing noise but goes away when I coast for a few seconds but it comes back at a different pitch. I have a video of the noise on my channel so not sure if the noise would be similar.
@@DG-bc4gz So hard to tell for your video. I think you shoud have a garage put it up in the air and pin point the noise.
not the rear diff.... it's the 2 insulator bushings, part nbr 7e5z-4b42-d.
Oh man i need a video to help guide me on replacing the front diff (transfercase)
Sorry I do not have one.
question: did you have to fill the diff with gear oil, or was it factory filled? thx.
I think it was filled already. But I would check to be sure it full. Thanks for watching
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore thanks.
Good job buddy 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
That looks like a fun job lol i have one hope it never goes out 😩
doing an oem unit friday . can it be driven to ford for programming pcm ?
I don't know. I wouldn't chance it. I would call the place you are getting it done and ask them. Thanks for watching
maybe do a video how to rebuild these diffs
That would be amazing...but nobody is willing to Crack one open after the swap
I have the same question, how do I buy this ford part?!
(my car 2013)
Go to the Dealer parts department. But you are still going to need to get the new one programmed to your car or it will burn up. Thanks for watching.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore Thank you ...
Because i'm not in your country：（
Can i know how much you buy?：）
@@Changdesign000 I only work on them the manager does the pricing. So I don't know how much it was. Sorry. Maybe go on ebay.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore ok...thank you!!!
Is this a common issue on the escape awd .
I don't know, but the dealer had the parts in stock. Thanks for watching
Awesome job and people wonder why it’s so expensive!
Yep, it took a long time to do it. Thanks for watching
This is AWESOME!!!!!
Dude I freaking hate these new vehicles. I got a 2014 1.6l ford escape NON-Awd...... Do I have a front differential or what? Is the front differential integrated with the transmission??? I want to drain and fill it but not a single video on doing the front diff. So I am stuck. Please help.
I think it is. They do not list a fluid for the front diff and the pics of the trans looks like its one unit. Thanks for watching
Hello can you help? Cause a malfunction. Ford Exp 2017 model. Code poc27:00
P0C27 FORD Code - Electric Transmission Fluid Pump Motor Control Module
My 2013 2.0 AWD model according to Ford has a 3.07 ratio in it. What seems to be the case is that Ford is replacing these with "S-150-D" part number. My guess is that it is 3.51 ratio and that is the reason why you need to program the ratio when the carrier is replaced. Can you confirm this is the case? If that is the case then almost any 13-16 used carrier assembly would work as long as you program the axle ratio with the code on top of the differential. I'm really trying to confirm this. Finding a 3.07 vs 3.51 on ebay is pretty difficult. Current price at Ford for this is 1343$. Mine is also making the bearing noise off acceleration and it doesn't matter if it is to the left or right. It does not make the bearing noise if accelerating off a straight line.
The noise sounds like the front pinion bearing. I do not know about the programing part I had a guy that my manger knows that works at Ford program it for us. I would say you need to replace it with the right gear ratio.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore The front pinion bearing on the carrier assembly i assume? At first thought it was an axle or bearing but it definitely sounds like it is coming from the RDU. Thank you for the reply!
I have 2007 ford and also have rdu..
Can some explain why the viscous coupler need to be programed..ford says this rdu is discounteded would new rdu work from 2013 look identical ie houseing
What part number and ratio did you end up going with
I have metal shavings in my differential fluid would I need to replace it
If it is not making noise then no. I would change the fluid and change it again in 5k to 7k to flush it out. Thanks for watching
What is the cost?
I don't do the billing so I don't know what is was sorry. Thanks for watching
Springs or bearings don’t need to come out
If you don't take the bearing out how do you remove the axles?
What kind of programmer scanner is need to relear or program rdu?
The guy had a laptop with Ford program on it.