I got a quote of £80 for a plumber to do this for me, and after seeing how many tools will be needed and the amount of steps, it’s one DIY job that is actually worth just getting a plumber to do!
Totally agree 🤯.. loved this vid but it also convinced me that it’s a step beyond my capabilities as a casual DIY’er. ( £80 seems very cheap btw ) 👍🏴
Your presenting is next level. So easily too follow! You get some guides who just don’t get to the point of waste time trying to be funny. Nothing funny about this just good honest helpful content. Thankyou.
Excellent How To!....well described and very clear information. One tiny addition I suggest..........pre-position a hip flask of Wood's Rum to reward yourself for a job well done....thanks to The DIY Guy!
Awesome easy to follow, the best one I have seen on this. The only thing I would have done different is, make sure the 3 holes was in the brick instead of having one on the mortar joint. I am differently going to look Into learning how to solder pipes as normally I use push fit connectors. This is one I have saved to use when I get my own place if it doesn't have one. Cheers 👍
Great video. Very informative and detailed. I'd add that the double check valve is a requirement for most, if not all of the water authorities in the UK and you must have one. As in the video, you can get them as a separate item but it is also possible to get a tap with the DCV built in. They're a bit more expensive but saves that extra piece in the line and those extra joins.
Good video and well presented mate, some water authorities ( inc Anglian) state the need for a plastic push fit isolator in case of lightning strike. Just thought it was worth a mention👍🏻
Nice and neat. When I installed an outside tap off the kitchen I also included a drain cock at a point I deliberately arranged to be lowest. This allows the assembly to be emptied for future work, or as a precaution against the exposed section freezing up and bursting over winter.
I'm getting quotes for getting an outside tap installed, after watching this video and looking at the access required, I may need to move where I wanted the tap, definitely cheaper for me to get a plumber as I don't have access to the tools you have and also if I do it wrong the wife can't blame me😂. Great video though, truly informative.
Really nice installation Cameron. Only thing I’d do myself would be installing a tap with a double check valve pre fitted and using a full bore valve as you don’t always get a decent flow rate with the standard ones that everybody uses. A really good tutorial though 👍🏻
Double check valve should be installed internally as in water regs. Great video Cameron. (Most accessibly positioned internals I've ever seen like, I never get them that easy😂)
Sound but it doesn’t comply to water regs. No non return valve installed. This allowing dirt on back siphonage into the cold water mains that you will be drinking from.
Great tutorial. It's so fortunate that UK has faily warm winter. Back in Poland, this kind of job would require to drill a 35mm hole to accomodate a foam insulant, to prevent the water inside the pipe to freeze and burst the pipe itself.
I love your video’s and best of all, love the fact that you link all the tools needed to do the shop and explain everything easy, not like the majority of TH-camrs. Remember explain slowly as if your explaining to a 10 year old?
This is a great easy to follow vid. But I would like to add for people doing this on a low budget who haven't got super drills and drill bits it's a good idea to drill the hole for your pipe on a mortar joint where the horizontal and vertical joints form a tee. This is the softest place to drill and also ensures that your screw fixing holes are all on brick rather than a joint. Also PTFE tape is the cheapest option to use when screwing your tap into place. If you use the right amount so that the tap tightens at the 11 o clock position then you can just tweak it that bit extra so it's really tight at the 12 o clock position. You are usually left with a very small gap where you can see the PTFE between the tap and wall plate and I would usually wipe a small amount of clear silicone in this gap that would seal it in place forever and it would also make it a neater joint. Also if you only have a 15mm drill and the hole is not big enough to take a liner pipe then you can always wrap your pipe in duct tape. Just tips from my days as a plumber. I really wish I had your DIY Guy energy. A vid on fitting kitchens would be brilliant mate, both the best buys and installation. Now in my mid 60's I'm about to fit a kitchen and I'm just so out of touch with this stuff now.
Personally I'd use liquid ptfe. You can just thread tap on dry, mark the holes with the tap vertical then unscrew and fit your pipe. Tap will wind straight back on with the liquid ptfe and end up perfectly straight. I prefer full bore isos for max flow rate through your hose. Good install though nice and tidy👍 you could have added in a drain off before the elbow if you wanted for the winter.
Great points. I don’t usually add rain offs just because I’ve never found them particularly useful however I understand why people do and would potentially like one. Cheers
Yeah all good plumbing I agree with everything. One thing I’m keen on is using stainless steel screws on every outside exposed fitting they are not expensive and they won’t break down and rust like the regular screws do
I always clean the existing pipe first, before cutting into it, so you know you have cleaned the pipe all the way round. Also it pays to undo or 'break ' the hose tap top half first, so it is easier to undo for replacing the washer in the future.
Very neat and precise job Cameron, a joy to watch. Even makes me think I could do it (complete with head banging). As for what I'd like to see next, I'm with the masses and the great already made suggestions..
Best to use a stopcock or lever valve as those service valves over time the O rings inside leak when you are turning the water on/off yearly & in an emergency the client won't readily find a screwdriver . We also install a draincock & the reason why is when the tap is isolated in the winter there is still water trapped in the pipework that can freeze , so the purpose of the drain cock apart from allowing water to be drained is to allow air in to force the water out the tap , in turn releasing any residual water in the pipe passing through the wall. It's a common problem that alot of installers do. If it's not done what can happen is the pipe through the wall freezes & then you have an issue when you turn the supply back on in the summer or whenever they require to use it. Other than that you did a great install neat & tidy. 👍
As there has been a lot of comments about a drain valve been fitted, can I ask do you mean the valve should be between the bend and double check valve. Then turn off the isolation valve and openthe drain valve to remove any residual water in winter before the isolation valve is turned on. In my last house the pipe froze and burst between the isolation valve and outside tap so I always turn off since but seems I should get a drain valve in.
Extra suggestion - seal over the end of the copper pipe before pushing it through the wall to avoid it picking up drill dust/cavity wall insulation/etc. on the way.
Looks simple enough 😅 great vid, thanks. I may have missed the explanation, but what is the exact reason for inserting the copper pipe within a slightly larger plastic pipe - is that to allow for some expansion/slight movements in the cavity wall over time ?
Well, you’ve done a great job, and explained the procedure very well. But i doubt its really that ‘quick and easy’ unless one knows something about plumbing. I’ll call the plumber. 😊
Nice instructional guide. A couple of improvements that I would suggest, is buying a tap with a double check valve built in (to save the additional non-return fitting), and instead of the isolation valve, instead fit one with a handle for better control (not fetching a screwdriver). Finally, if choosing to solder, water in the pipework, below the cut joint would be a pig to install. Instead include a drain off. Still a really good instructional guide though. Is that a CAT sds? I haven't seen one of them before?
Those isolation valves with screwdriver are cheap,but better to spend a few more £'s on one with physical lever.Easier to reach and operate and look more professional in my opinion.
Tell you what’s even better than PTFE and that thread, it’s called “That rapid blu-stuff” basically a liquid you run onto the threads, it’s great for backing off and sets pretty quickly. Amazing stuff
I would bring the feed to the tap from the top and fit another T with isolation valve so in the cold months you can shut the water of open the out side tap and then the isolation valve drain the water out so it doesn't freeze When the water is drained out close the isolation valve and leave the outside tap open
Hello mate, great video as always, I want to do the same but have the tap infront of the property to make life easier when washing the car or cleaning the driveway, What’s the best way to achieve that?
Hi, thanks. Do you have a mains cold pipe anywhere at the front of your home? If so you need to gain access to it and follow this guide to assist you. Otherwise you will need to find your closest mains supply pipe and find a route to run some copper pipe to the front of the home through floors/walls. Cheers
@@TheDIYGuy1 Hello thanks for the reply, yes I do have the mains supply it’s actually in my drive and it’s got the stop valve on it, do I just connect it to that ?
Very nice. For plumbing on Gas pipes, is it same method. How I can check gas leakages. I want to fit floor bayonet for gas heater in living area, any guidance will be great.
It is better to fit the tap to the back plate before marking fixings on wall and fitting as you then sure your tap will be tight and upright, been a c&g plumber for 51 years and fitted loads of these
Great video as always , I learn alot from your videos as I’m a Level 2 Plumbing student , but how do you do all that talking in the Customer’s property ? 😅
Thanks. This video was shot on my renovation property. I also shoot some videos in rental properties my family owns/buys/renovates or friends and family.
Helter skelter please. Or treehouse. Give yourself a break for a bit of a less worthy/useful project praps? Love the units in the utility. Takes me back. They're probably in fashion again now. 6:14 Arrgh. Nearly!
I don't think you mentioned it but for others, while it might feel counter-intuitive to drill outside to in, it stops you blowing the brick out on the outside. Just use the window as a frame of reference to measure down to where you want to be.
Great video. Potentially dumb question: Do the outside taps and pipes need to be insulated or a special type to prevent bursting in cold weather or to prevent heat loss from the home?
Just a quick question, how the heck do you get silicon off your fingers/hands? I seem to be unable to do this and spread it around everywhere like a muddy puppy! Another fantastic video.
Great video. I'm sure it's been said on here but I'd always try and install a tap over a drain, even if it means running additional pipe on the inside. When I install outside taps I always install the backplate entirely within a brick if at all possible, rather than two screws into a brick and one into mortar. It just looks tidier. Looking at your location, I think you could have done that in this case. It's just personal choice. x
@@TheMisterB2u Personally, I find it tricky to drive the screws in with the tap in situ. I have tried but unless you use a long screwdriver instead of a power tool it ain't easy. x
Why is it more difficult to back off from a full tightening with ptfe, is it because the tap is left too loose on the thread if you don't fully tighten. Is there any disadvantage with the loctite. For example, does loctite make it harder to remove the tap should you ever need to replace it.
What do you want to see next time?
I would love to see patio/paver work if you have that in the works for the new house
I do need to do plenty of this and will see what I can do for you very soon
Why install the shock arrestor and how to do it
Shower tray on sand& cement??
Would love to see anything about tiling a floor if you are doing some.
I got a quote of £80 for a plumber to do this for me, and after seeing how many tools will be needed and the amount of steps, it’s one DIY job that is actually worth just getting a plumber to do!
Totally agree 🤯.. loved this vid but it also convinced me that it’s a step beyond my capabilities as a casual DIY’er. ( £80 seems very cheap btw )
👍🏴
£80 is a bargain
@@RH-nk7eo your not wrong ! I think that quote he got was back in 2005.. 🤣
👍🏴
Can't argue with £80...in 2010 I was quoted £45 😂
@@JackKing12. and in 1933 you’d have been quoted £1 8d ..🤷♂️
👍🏴
This guy is amazing he doesn’t talk and talk and talk just for no reason , and he is on the dot , I learned a lot from this guy , thank you 🙏
Your presenting is next level. So easily too follow! You get some guides who just don’t get to the point of waste time trying to be funny. Nothing funny about this just good honest helpful content. Thankyou.
I appreciate that!
Excellent How To!....well described and very clear information. One tiny addition I suggest..........pre-position a hip flask of Wood's Rum to reward yourself for a job well done....thanks to The DIY Guy!
Awesome easy to follow, the best one I have seen on this. The only thing I would have done different is, make sure the 3 holes was in the brick instead of having one on the mortar joint. I am differently going to look Into learning how to solder pipes as normally I use push fit connectors. This is one I have saved to use when I get my own place if it doesn't have one. Cheers 👍
Glad you found it useful , thanks
@@stuartcraigon2003
Solder Dom's day in day out...
@@stuartcraigon2003 🤣🤣🤣
I didnt know what the double check valve was on my outside tap at work i am changing. Now i know why its there and what it does. Thanks
No problem 👍
I've never heard of using plumbers mate on compression fittings, ill be keeping that in mind 😀
Plumbers always keeps those mates in hand😊
A "jointing compound" is designed for that, not plumbers mait.
@@YouZbychu correct plumbers mate should not be used on mains water pipe fittings
Great video. Very informative and detailed. I'd add that the double check valve is a requirement for most, if not all of the water authorities in the UK and you must have one. As in the video, you can get them as a separate item but it is also possible to get a tap with the DCV built in. They're a bit more expensive but saves that extra piece in the line and those extra joins.
Clear and concise! Next video should be how to install a drain gutter below the tap :)
Not a bad idea that 👍 cheers
Good video and well presented mate, some water authorities ( inc Anglian) state the need for a plastic push fit isolator in case of lightning strike. Just thought it was worth a mention👍🏻
Nice and neat. When I installed an outside tap off the kitchen I also included a drain cock at a point I deliberately arranged to be lowest. This allows the assembly to be emptied for future work, or as a precaution against the exposed section freezing up and bursting over winter.
Yep if people feel it’s needed it can be a useful addition. Cheers
I'm getting quotes for getting an outside tap installed, after watching this video and looking at the access required, I may need to move where I wanted the tap, definitely cheaper for me to get a plumber as I don't have access to the tools you have and also if I do it wrong the wife can't blame me😂. Great video though, truly informative.
👍
Really nice installation Cameron. Only thing I’d do myself would be installing a tap with a double check valve pre fitted and using a full bore valve as you don’t always get a decent flow rate with the standard ones that everybody uses. A really good tutorial though 👍🏻
👍 cheers
Double check valve should be installed internally as in water regs.
Great video Cameron. (Most accessibly positioned internals I've ever seen like, I never get them that easy😂)
Sound but it doesn’t comply to water regs. No non return valve installed. This allowing dirt on back siphonage into the cold water mains that you will be drinking from.
Mate, you are a gem! Thank you! You chose the gem you like and that is what you are
Thanks 😊
Solder already on the union and all it needs is a torch and flux for the soldering. Great option that is not available here in the States.
Great tutorial. It's so fortunate that UK has faily warm winter. Back in Poland, this kind of job would require to drill a 35mm hole to accomodate a foam insulant, to prevent the water inside the pipe to freeze and burst the pipe itself.
Ah good to know . Thanks
We still have issues in the UK, albeit not as frequently. Most people isolate the tap in winter.
What an absolute legend
Good job, I watch a lot of your videos, the're very helpful, and you always do a nice, tidy job. Kudos from Ireland 👍
Quick, clear and easy instructions to follow
👍
Fare play your a pure natural at explaining things,
Brilliant 👍👍🤜
Thanks 👍
You made this installation so easy and simple
Cheers! Glad you liked it
Cheers, done mine today following this video. Liked and subbed. Thank you.
Gonna have a crack over weekend mate..
Brilliant and clear vid..
Thanks mate..
As a fellow plumber great job explained very well in great detail well done will be subscribing
Awesome, thank you!
I love your video’s and best of all, love the fact that you link all the tools needed to do the shop and explain everything easy, not like the majority of TH-camrs. Remember explain slowly as if your explaining to a 10 year old?
Thanks 👍
This is a great easy to follow vid. But I would like to add for people doing this on a low budget who haven't got super drills and drill bits it's a good idea to drill the hole for your pipe on a mortar joint where the horizontal and vertical joints form a tee. This is the softest place to drill and also ensures that your screw fixing holes are all on brick rather than a joint. Also PTFE tape is the cheapest option to use when screwing your tap into place. If you use the right amount so that the tap tightens at the 11 o clock position then you can just tweak it that bit extra so it's really tight at the 12 o clock position. You are usually left with a very small gap where you can see the PTFE between the tap and wall plate and I would usually wipe a small amount of clear silicone in this gap that would seal it in place forever and it would also make it a neater joint. Also if you only have a 15mm drill and the hole is not big enough to take a liner pipe then you can always wrap your pipe in duct tape. Just tips from my days as a plumber. I really wish I had your DIY Guy energy. A vid on fitting kitchens would be brilliant mate, both the best buys and installation. Now in my mid 60's I'm about to fit a kitchen and I'm just so out of touch with this stuff now.
Useful tips for people here. Kitchen fitting is in the pipeline 👍
Nice and neat. I would have put a tap rather than an isolation valve on the inside, but I’m just paranoid about freezing pipes!
First vid of yours I watched and now subscribed. Clear and simple
Welcome aboard!
Personally I'd use liquid ptfe. You can just thread tap on dry, mark the holes with the tap vertical then unscrew and fit your pipe. Tap will wind straight back on with the liquid ptfe and end up perfectly straight. I prefer full bore isos for max flow rate through your hose. Good install though nice and tidy👍 you could have added in a drain off before the elbow if you wanted for the winter.
Great points. I don’t usually add rain offs just because I’ve never found them particularly useful however I understand why people do and would potentially like one. Cheers
Great stuff. That'll be handy for getting that lawn back in shape won't it ?😉😉
Yeah all good plumbing I agree with everything. One thing I’m keen on is using stainless steel screws on every outside exposed fitting they are not expensive and they won’t break down and rust like the regular screws do
I always clean the existing pipe first, before cutting into it, so you know you have cleaned the pipe all the way round.
Also it pays to undo or 'break ' the hose tap top half first, so it is easier to undo for replacing the washer in the future.
Thanks for sharing your methods 😊
Very neat and precise job Cameron, a joy to watch. Even makes me think I could do it (complete with head banging). As for what I'd like to see next, I'm with the masses and the great already made suggestions..
Thanks very much, you could do it. Watch the head haha
@@TheDIYGuy1 Cheers...The head is full of sawdust, so no harm will be done...Paul..
😆
Quality as always not to cocky just a nice video any level could watch 👍🏻
Much appreciated
Great video, look forward to another one about fitting a toilet
Coming in the future for sure!
Very well explained. 😊😊🇫🇷🇫🇷👍👍
Glad it was helpful!
Can’t wait to see the wood burner
Soon 👍
Best to use a stopcock or lever valve as those service valves over time the O rings inside leak when you are turning the water on/off yearly & in an emergency the client won't readily find a screwdriver .
We also install a draincock & the reason why is when the tap is isolated in the winter there is still water trapped in the pipework that can freeze , so the purpose of the drain cock apart from allowing water to be drained is to allow air in to force the water out the tap , in turn releasing any residual water in the pipe passing through the wall. It's a common problem that alot of installers do. If it's not done what can happen is the pipe through the wall freezes & then you have an issue when you turn the supply back on in the summer or whenever they require to use it. Other than that you did a great install neat & tidy. 👍
As there has been a lot of comments about a drain valve been fitted, can I ask do you mean the valve should be between the bend and double check valve. Then
turn off the isolation valve and openthe drain valve to remove any residual water in winter before the isolation valve is turned on. In my last house the pipe froze and burst between the isolation valve and outside tap so I always turn off since but seems I should get a drain valve in.
Extra suggestion - seal over the end of the copper pipe before pushing it through the wall to avoid it picking up drill dust/cavity wall insulation/etc. on the way.
Good suggestion
or plumb it in without the tap and give it a blast of water through it first, then fit the tap.
Brilliant, explained so clearly. Thanks a lot!
This was great! I’d need to buy so many drill bits!
Thanks!
I live in a flat and I’m watching all your videos. You made me really confidant in doing these job myself when I finally move.
Great job buddy
You can do it!
Great videos make a really love them the very concise clear simple and easy to follow 11:14
Glad you like them!
Was you worried about heat transfer to the plastic sleeve when doing the last 90 joint?
What’s the point of installing a double check internally when the hose union bib has one
great video
Thanks!
Think your videos are great. Got a question though on how did you protect the plastic conduit from heat when you did the top Yorkshire elbow?
Looks simple enough 😅 great vid, thanks. I may have missed the explanation, but what is the exact reason for inserting the copper pipe within a slightly larger plastic pipe - is that to allow for some expansion/slight movements in the cavity wall over time ?
Exactly right, also any leaks will not enter your cavity.
Spent ages trying get the tap lined up. Ended up taking it off putting the tap on and then marking the holes to make sure
Great video, thank you! Can I check, presumably it’s the exact same process if you want to also install a hot tap outside at the same time?
You make it look so easy and I would have take my tools and they will across the kitchen floor and it would be leaking.
Thanks for the video, what about some more tools in action
Great suggestion!
👍👍
Well, you’ve done a great job, and explained the procedure very well. But i doubt its really that ‘quick and easy’ unless one knows something about plumbing. I’ll call the plumber. 😊
Thanks, haha fair enough 😊
Great video maybe you can show which way the flow on isolation was going once fitted ? was it facing towards to outside tap ? or towards main pipe ?
Thanks. Flow direction is toward the tap.
Perfect! Subscribed a while back but this video alone is worth a subscribe for sure! will be attempting this soon!
Great, thanks
Thanks for the video😎
Nice instructional guide. A couple of improvements that I would suggest, is buying a tap with a double check valve built in (to save the additional non-return fitting), and instead of the isolation valve, instead fit one with a handle for better control (not fetching a screwdriver). Finally, if choosing to solder, water in the pipework, below the cut joint would be a pig to install. Instead include a drain off.
Still a really good instructional guide though. Is that a CAT sds? I haven't seen one of them before?
Those isolation valves with screwdriver are cheap,but better to spend a few more £'s on one with physical lever.Easier to reach and operate and look more professional in my opinion.
Tell you what’s even better than PTFE and that thread, it’s called “That rapid blu-stuff” basically a liquid you run onto the threads, it’s great for backing off and sets pretty quickly. Amazing stuff
Pro Tip: put a screw in them before you pound the sockets into the wall. It prevents damaging them.
I would bring the feed to the tap from the top and fit another T with isolation valve so in the cold months you can shut the water of open the out side tap and then the isolation valve drain the water out so it doesn't freeze When the water is drained out close the isolation valve and leave the outside tap open
Nice work mate, the only thing I’d do differently is use a lever valve to isolate, not everyone has a flat head screwdriver to hand in an emergency.
Keep making that bit bigger and you can rob the bank vault
Hello mate, great video as always, I want to do the same but have the tap infront of the property to make life easier when washing the car or cleaning the driveway, What’s the best way to achieve that?
Hi, thanks. Do you have a mains cold pipe anywhere at the front of your home? If so you need to gain access to it and follow this guide to assist you. Otherwise you will need to find your closest mains supply pipe and find a route to run some copper pipe to the front of the home through floors/walls. Cheers
@@TheDIYGuy1 Hello thanks for the reply, yes I do have the mains supply it’s actually in my drive and it’s got the stop valve on it, do I just connect it to that ?
Very nice.
For plumbing on Gas pipes, is it same method. How I can check gas leakages.
I want to fit floor bayonet for gas heater in living area, any guidance will be great.
Thank you great easy to follow video
Glad it helped
@The DIY Guy great video, explained very well make the job look easy! Top Man 👊
Thanks 👍
Not a plumber but was just wondering why you used plumbers mate when you were doing the nuts up on the isolation valve? Great video though 👍
As always, great video full of information. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Sir can please make a video on unvented and vented cylinders , my teacher doesn’t explain good
Great video, very well explained!
Glad you liked it!
Your bloody brilliant👍🏻👍🏻 where did you learn to do all this stuff?
Years and years of experience across a wide variety of jobs and professions. Thanks
I am a newly qualified plumber. I need to gain some experience. What do you recommend me doing?
Did you remove the plastic pipe before you sealed with silicone? It seemed to disappear!
It is better to fit the tap to the back plate before marking fixings on wall and fitting as you then sure your tap will be tight and upright, been a c&g plumber for 51 years and fitted loads of these
Really useful video, thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
How do you stop the solder from dripping away down may cause a leak through the seal ?
Can something like a stopcock be installed internally when branching off from the mains, to stop the tap being used by someone else?
great video. would this also work if the water tap is all the way in the back of the garden, lets say 30meters away from the house?
Excellent video, thanks
Glad you liked it!
Very informative, Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
How did you get rid of the water in the pipe for when you soldering
Incredible, thank you
Thank you too!
Quality guide, cheers. 👍
Thanks again Ross
🙌amazing work✔️
Thank you 🙌
Great video, and you got a new follower.
one question, why you didn't use compression fitting T and elbows instead welded option?
Thanks a lot 😊. Compression is ok but wherever you can use solder it’s the way to go just for reliability and asthetics
Hi. Can you do the job without a plastic sleeve
Thanks very much 👊🙂
No problem 👍
Great video as always , I learn alot from your videos as I’m a Level 2 Plumbing student , but how do you do all that talking in the Customer’s property ? 😅
Thanks. This video was shot on my renovation property. I also shoot some videos in rental properties my family owns/buys/renovates or friends and family.
Helter skelter please. Or treehouse. Give yourself a break for a bit of a less worthy/useful project praps?
Love the units in the utility. Takes me back. They're probably in fashion again now.
6:14 Arrgh. Nearly!
👍
Only one thing. You said at the end we need to turn the isolation valve back on. When did you turn the insulation off?
I don't think you mentioned it but for others, while it might feel counter-intuitive to drill outside to in, it stops you blowing the brick out on the outside. Just use the window as a frame of reference to measure down to where you want to be.
Great point there 👍
Great video. Potentially dumb question: Do the outside taps and pipes need to be insulated or a special type to prevent bursting in cold weather or to prevent heat loss from the home?
With this method such little pipe is exposed to the elements, an insulated tap cover is enough to prevent freezing in my experience
Just a quick question, how the heck do you get silicon off your fingers/hands? I seem to be unable to do this and spread it around everywhere like a muddy puppy! Another fantastic video.
Thanks. I use ultra grime wipes
Great video. I'm sure it's been said on here but I'd always try and install a tap over a drain, even if it means running additional pipe on the inside. When I install outside taps I always install the backplate entirely within a brick if at all possible, rather than two screws into a brick and one into mortar. It just looks tidier. Looking at your location, I think you could have done that in this case. It's just personal choice. x
Yes,I was thinking that .If you fit tap first,then you can place over brick to secure screws.
@@TheMisterB2u Personally, I find it tricky to drive the screws in with the tap in situ. I have tried but unless you use a long screwdriver instead of a power tool it ain't easy. x
Why is it more difficult to back off from a full tightening with ptfe, is it because the tap is left too loose on the thread if you don't fully tighten. Is there any disadvantage with the loctite. For example, does loctite make it harder to remove the tap should you ever need to replace it.
legend
Question!
Whats the purpose of the PVC pipe fitted in the hole first? Can this install be done without that?
The plastic pipe is used to protect the copper pipe. I would recommend you do this.
Quick question: Would a good 18v combi drill through the brick wall the same as an SDS drill?
Thanks 🤙🏻
Very unlikely unless it were soft red brick. Thanks
Can I use a heat gun for the soldering?