great vid! i just wish i had found this a month ago when i was struggling to wire mine up. mice chewed up all the wires and couldn't find anything telling how it was supposed to be wired. i finally figured it out and did mine the same way you did. it's crazy bc i even wired in a fan speed selector switch just like you. i guess great minds really do think alike. this vid deserves way more than 9k likes bc i'm sure a lot more people are looking for it. i believe i searched "how to wire a residential thermostat in a camper" or something like that. maybe changing the name would get more people to see it? idk, either way great vid and very well spoken
Dan, is your furnace control fused, 12 volt? If so you should remove the Rc-R jumper otherwise you are tying two positives together and if you pull either the AC or furnace fuse, it will backfeed to the open fused circuit. I believe most if not all RV's have separate 12 volt fusing for the AC and furnace. This thermostat is designed to operate with single "power" source, ie your 12 volt or two "power" sources but the jumper must be removed. For my fan speed switch I used a rocker switch on my main control panel below the thermostat. This is a closer look to the rest of my rocker switches on the panel. FYI, if the fan does not run you will trip on high head pressure long before the evaporator will freeze up. I have an easy to follow drawing if you want a copy to add to your site.
The furnace is wired through the air unit. It is fuses as any other item. If there was a double bot it would have blown a fuse by far at this point. It is not double powered. If you look at my diagram there are 2 12+ wires coming out of the air unit that I tied together, that makes 1 12v+ to the thermostat, the jumper is needs to supply 12v+ to the furnace. The red wire on the diagram is going from the air unit to the thermostat, then from the thermostat to the furnace. If I I remove the jumper the furnace stops running. I don’t believe this system is separated because the air conditioning fan ran when the furnace was activated in the factory system. Yes the ac in the ceiling would turn the fan on for the ac fan when the furnace was running. This is the factory set up I did not like.
@@dan8220 In my unit the two wires for the furnace in the AC location are fused. Your unit, the furnace must not be fused separate from the AC. Do you have a furnace fuse in your DC panel? If it is fused, did you check polarity of the wires? Tying two positives together through the jumper won't damage anything, since they are the same "potential". However, this is not normal electrical practice in wiring thermostats. In the Dometic junk control board the furnace leads just run through a relay that is controlled by the thermostat/control board logic, i.e., a switch. The wiring for the furnace run through the AC control is just for convenience in manufacturing to accommodate the Dometic design. Even without the AC controller installed, AC fuse pulled, jumper Rc-R removed, furnace fuse in, my furnace works from the thermostat. Since there seems to be no commonality in RV wiring between manufacturers it appears we may have different wiring. Also, your AC unit may be a different unit than mine. My unit is a Brisk Air II model. And your control board is version "V4" were as mine is version "V3". Once I removed (cut) the 12-volt wiring harness (four conductors), unlike your drawing, there were no two wires the splice together. All that is left is thermostat lead (8 conductor), furnace lead (2 conductors), battery power, six position plug for compressor/fan and the freeze stat. My color code is based on the colors in the installed thermostat wire. Wiring thermostat wire for me is simply connect red thermostat wire to 12-volt positive, connect orange wire to furnace 12-volt positive (tested polarity & removed fuse), connect white wire to furnace 12-volt negative, on control box connect yellow wire to Y terminal, connect black wire to terminal GH, connect brown wire GL, and 12-volt negative to B terminal. Thermostat end is red wire to Rc terminal (removed jumper), orange wire to R terminal, yellow wire to Y terminal, white wire to W terminal and ran jumper wire from G terminal to center (common) terminal on rocker switch. Connected black and brown wires to other terminals on rocker switch to make high/low fan speeds. As far as the AC fan running when in heating mode (junk Dometic system) that is "normal" if the thermostat was in high or low fan speed setting. Not supposed to do that if fan was in auto mode - stupid design. I think they were thinking that if you had a heat pump unit that would help heat the unit. Again, being cheap they just made a "one size fits all".
@@patrickdenisemodrell6495 the wiring will depend on the specific set up per each RV. Mine I don’t think I had a furnace fuse because the ac and furnace were controlled by 1 source. I no longer have the unit, so I can’t look. The only type of electrical the furnace has was the 12V fan.
@@dan8220 You gotta love the manufacturers!! Received the "new and improved" Coleman 8330-752 control box. There is no longer the B-, Y, GL, GH terminals on the outside like the one in your video and the box is bigger. There is a small wire harness that plugs in for the B-, Y, GL, GH terminals and you can not remove the compressor/fan plug like you did - it is soldered onto the control board. All is not lost. There is an adapter wiring harness for a Colman to Advent AC units. Just have to cut off the Advent end, splice in the Dometic end and plug things together. I will let you know the results as soon as I get it. Would love to send you some pictures of this conversion you could add as a supplement to your video but don't know how to send it to you. My email is pndmodrell@gmail.com
It's probably too late. I don't know if you still check these videos. But I have the new updated version of this part/module. Do you know how to wire it??? Would be much h appreciated. Thx! Got it hooked up for the most part I just don't know we're the big 110v. Blue wire for compressor would go on this new board
Preferably an on/on toggle switch., but I used an on/off/on from autozone and just wired it so 1 fan speed was always on and the other was the other speed.
thanks Dan, i will be doing that on my camper a/c concern about some of the bad revues on the new 8330752 control box have you had any problems with it?
What makes my AC on our camper makes a sound like whomp, whomp, whomp while running? Everything cools, just makes this sounding noise. We have a 2015 Palomino Puma. Thanks.
Not sure, take your cover off on the top of the screen unit and. Check the fan blades and shaft. Tuen it on and see if you find something loose. I had a rumble that was ridiculous and found a forbears nest in the fan blade that was thrown off the spin balance and causing the problem.
Thanks Dan. I had the -12V going to the t-sat. Connected the +12V supply to "R" on t-stat and working great. Heat and AC now. The "b1" wire just goes the unit white negative wires, not to the T-stat.
Awesome setup. Replacing the OEM control board with an old Dometic analog board would have been simpler, though, I think. My kiddo and I are working on a custom control board that will work with a residential thermostat or with a RaspberryPi/HomeAssiatant. We have learned sooooo much about Dometics along the way (including many new cuss words). One thing to be aware of: any replacement control board (other than a Dometic analog board) for use with a different tstat will void your top unit's warranty.
They way I figure it out was at the thermostat when I hooked them up backwards the furnace started running as soon as I hooked the wire up tongue thermostat screw. I knew then it was the other wire.
Question: so do you control both the roof ac and propane furnace w the same house thermostat??? And the fan goes on and off on auto for both furnace and ac?
@@dan8220 great. Thanks Dan. I'm gonna try this for my Coleman Mach 3. I think my factory control box already has the terminals for the thermostat. If not then like u I'd need to upgrade the controller box.
@@joeb5853 if you DO NOT have what they call a 3 wire thermostat you should be good to just swap out the thermostat ,if you have the 3 wire system chances are the control box needs swapped as well.
I did not run any new wires. The btu’s of the ac don’t matter. If you have a 3 wire system and it runs with same control module as I took out this should work.
Dan, I need your help. When I was working on improving the airflow I accidently pulled out the white cable with the blue socket. Where does it connect? I cant see from where I pulled it out. Thank you in advance.
@@garygoudreault1481 I don’t think that has to be hooked up to work. If it does freeze it will keep running and possibly damage the unit. Mine has never frozen. You can take control unit to a car stereo place and as then to open it and solder it back in. Easy peasy.
@@stevenbader636 your furnace wires both go to the thermostat, they don’t need to go through the control unit in the air conditioner My Twitter is @dan43830.
@@dan8220 I don’t have Twitter. I got everything wired but when I turn on the breaker my ac kicks on automatically when in the off position. When I switch my switch from low to high the furnace kicks on. What do you think I need to do? Thank you for your time
@@stevenbader636 sounds like you got the thermostat wired wrong. Furnace wires both go to thermostat. Positive from furnace to r on the thermostat and the negative from the furnace goes to the w on the thermostat Fan high and go to low toggle switch that is an on on switch then the wire from the toggle switch to the g on the thermostat.
They lied to you. A separate a/c unit that plugs in to a different circuit (110) The cord actually plugs into the recepeticle in the box at any RV Park. My RV is 30 Amp and I added another unit with no electrical modifications.
No I understand, what they are saying. They can’t add one to a 30 amp service in the coach. They per policy can not hook up a separate power cord for separate plug in. They told me it could be done but they as a dealer cannot do it.
If you do add a second unit, be sure to add SoftStarts to each unit or you will trip your breaker when the second unit kicks on. Also, do an energy audit to be sure you will not exceed your overall capaciyy.
great vid! i just wish i had found this a month ago when i was struggling to wire mine up. mice chewed up all the wires and couldn't find anything telling how it was supposed to be wired. i finally figured it out and did mine the same way you did. it's crazy bc i even wired in a fan speed selector switch just like you. i guess great minds really do think alike. this vid deserves way more than 9k likes bc i'm sure a lot more people are looking for it. i believe i searched "how to wire a residential thermostat in a camper" or something like that. maybe changing the name would get more people to see it? idk, either way great vid and very well spoken
Dan, is your furnace control fused, 12 volt? If so you should remove the Rc-R jumper otherwise you are tying two positives together and if you pull either the AC or furnace fuse, it will backfeed to the open fused circuit. I believe most if not all RV's have separate 12 volt fusing for the AC and furnace. This thermostat is designed to operate with single "power" source, ie your 12 volt or two "power" sources but the jumper must be removed.
For my fan speed switch I used a rocker switch on my main control panel below the thermostat. This is a closer look to the rest of my rocker switches on the panel. FYI, if the fan does not run you will trip on high head pressure long before the evaporator will freeze up. I have an easy to follow drawing if you want a copy to add to your site.
The furnace is wired through the air unit. It is fuses as any other item. If there was a double bot it would have blown a fuse by far at this point. It is not double powered. If you look at my diagram there are 2 12+ wires coming out of the air unit that I tied together, that makes 1 12v+ to the thermostat, the jumper is needs to supply 12v+ to the furnace. The red wire on the diagram is going from the air unit to the thermostat, then from the thermostat to the furnace. If I I remove the jumper the furnace stops running. I don’t believe this system is separated because the air conditioning fan ran when the furnace was activated in the factory system. Yes the ac in the ceiling would turn the fan on for the ac fan when the furnace was running. This is the factory set up I did not like.
@@dan8220 In my unit the two wires for the furnace in the AC location are fused. Your unit, the furnace must not be fused separate from the AC. Do you have a furnace fuse in your DC panel? If it is fused, did you check polarity of the wires? Tying two positives together through the jumper won't damage anything, since they are the same "potential". However, this is not normal electrical practice in wiring thermostats. In the Dometic junk control board the furnace leads just run through a relay that is controlled by the thermostat/control board logic, i.e., a switch. The wiring for the furnace run through the AC control is just for convenience in manufacturing to accommodate the Dometic design. Even without the AC controller installed, AC fuse pulled, jumper Rc-R removed, furnace fuse in, my furnace works from the thermostat. Since there seems to be no commonality in RV wiring between manufacturers it appears we may have different wiring. Also, your AC unit may be a different unit than mine. My unit is a Brisk Air II model. And your control board is version "V4" were as mine is version "V3".
Once I removed (cut) the 12-volt wiring harness (four conductors), unlike your drawing, there were no two wires the splice together. All that is left is thermostat lead (8 conductor), furnace lead (2 conductors), battery power, six position plug for compressor/fan and the freeze stat. My color code is based on the colors in the installed thermostat wire. Wiring thermostat wire for me is simply connect red thermostat wire to 12-volt positive, connect orange wire to furnace 12-volt positive (tested polarity & removed fuse), connect white wire to furnace 12-volt negative, on control box connect yellow wire to Y terminal, connect black wire to terminal GH, connect brown wire GL, and 12-volt negative to B terminal. Thermostat end is red wire to Rc terminal (removed jumper), orange wire to R terminal, yellow wire to Y terminal, white wire to W terminal and ran jumper wire from G terminal to center (common) terminal on rocker switch. Connected black and brown wires to other terminals on rocker switch to make high/low fan speeds.
As far as the AC fan running when in heating mode (junk Dometic system) that is "normal" if the thermostat was in high or low fan speed setting. Not supposed to do that if fan was in auto mode - stupid design. I think they were thinking that if you had a heat pump unit that would help heat the unit. Again, being cheap they just made a "one size fits all".
@@patrickdenisemodrell6495 the wiring will depend on the specific set up per each RV. Mine I don’t think I had a furnace fuse because the ac and furnace were controlled by 1 source. I no longer have the unit, so I can’t look. The only type of electrical the furnace has was the 12V fan.
@@dan8220 You gotta love the manufacturers!! Received the "new and improved" Coleman 8330-752 control box. There is no longer the B-, Y, GL, GH terminals on the outside like the one in your video and the box is bigger. There is a small wire harness that plugs in for the B-, Y, GL, GH terminals and you can not remove the compressor/fan plug like you did - it is soldered onto the control board.
All is not lost. There is an adapter wiring harness for a Colman to Advent AC units. Just have to cut off the Advent end, splice in the Dometic end and plug things together. I will let you know the results as soon as I get it. Would love to send you some pictures of this conversion you could add as a supplement to your video but don't know how to send it to you. My email is pndmodrell@gmail.com
It's probably too late. I don't know if you still check these videos. But I have the new updated version of this part/module. Do you know how to wire it??? Would be much h appreciated. Thx!
Got it hooked up for the most part I just don't know we're the big 110v. Blue wire for compressor would go on this new board
It’s really hard to tell, the blue wire is 24 volt usually
Thanks for the video!. What kind of toggle switch do I need to get?
Preferably an on/on toggle switch., but I used an on/off/on from autozone and just wired it so 1 fan speed was always on and the other was the other speed.
Thank you for posting this video. I just completed my conversion. Works way better than original junk.
thanks Dan, i will be doing that on my camper a/c concern about some of the bad revues on the new 8330752 control box have you had any problems with it?
No mines been fine. No issue at all.
does the thermostat have to be grounded ?
@@albertrobbins5021 there is a b wire that is 12v-, I have a wire diagram in part 2 of my videos.
What makes my AC on our camper makes a sound like whomp, whomp, whomp while running? Everything cools, just makes this sounding noise. We have a 2015 Palomino Puma.
Thanks.
Not sure, take your cover off on the top of the screen unit and. Check the fan blades and shaft. Tuen it on and see if you find something loose. I had a rumble that was ridiculous and found a forbears nest in the fan blade that was thrown off the spin balance and causing the problem.
Were does the wire "From Supply +12V" connect? Does it connect to the 8830-752 box?
No that 12+ should go to the thermostat
Thanks Dan. I had the -12V going to the t-sat. Connected the +12V supply to "R" on t-stat and working great. Heat and AC now. The "b1" wire just goes the unit white negative wires, not to the T-stat.
Awesome setup. Replacing the OEM control board with an old Dometic analog board would have been simpler, though, I think.
My kiddo and I are working on a custom control board that will work with a residential thermostat or with a RaspberryPi/HomeAssiatant. We have learned sooooo much about Dometics along the way (including many new cuss words).
One thing to be aware of: any replacement control board (other than a Dometic analog board) for use with a different tstat will void your top unit's warranty.
Dan, how do you determine which is the furnace negative / positive.
They way I figure it out was at the thermostat when I hooked them up backwards the furnace started running as soon as I hooked the wire up tongue thermostat screw. I knew then it was the other wire.
Question: so do you control both the roof ac and propane furnace w the same house thermostat??? And the fan goes on and off on auto for both furnace and ac?
Yes, that’s correct.
@@dan8220 great. Thanks Dan. I'm gonna try this for my Coleman Mach 3. I think my factory control box already has the terminals for the thermostat. If not then like u I'd need to upgrade the controller box.
@@joeb5853 if you DO NOT have what they call a 3 wire thermostat you should be good to just swap out the thermostat ,if you have the 3 wire system chances are the control box needs swapped as well.
@@dan8220 thanks Dan.
I have 2 questions, will this same set up work on a 15,000 BTU and did you have to run any new wires to use the new thermastat?
I did not run any new wires. The btu’s of the ac don’t matter. If you have a 3 wire system and it runs with same control module as I took out this should work.
How extraordinary! Mine does the same thing. I'll be getting this done to mine for sure.
Hi Dan , do you by chance have a schematic of the wiring? I have the same exact unit you modification is a great one.
Thanks Joe
I do yes. Twitter. @Dan43830
Learned you can use Airxcel Coleman-Mach controls on a dometic AC unit.
Dan, I need your help. When I was working on improving the airflow I accidently pulled out the white cable with the blue socket. Where does it connect? I cant see from where I pulled it out. Thank you in advance.
In the air conditioning unit?
Freeze sensor on the control box
@@garygoudreault1481 I don’t think that has to be hooked up to work. If it does freeze it will keep running and possibly damage the unit. Mine has never frozen. You can take control unit to a car stereo place and as then to open it and solder it back in. Easy peasy.
If the freeze sensor is functioning it turns off the compressor
@@garygoudreault1481 correct
Great video! Is there a way I can contact you about this set up. I’m having trouble getting mine hooked up. Thanks in advance
My question is where on the control box do you wire in the two wires coming from furnace. A
@@stevenbader636 your furnace wires both go to the thermostat, they don’t need to go through the control unit in the air conditioner My Twitter is @dan43830.
@@dan8220 I don’t have Twitter. I got everything wired but when I turn on the breaker my ac kicks on automatically when in the off position. When I switch my switch from low to high the furnace kicks on. What do you think I need to do? Thank you for your time
@@stevenbader636 sounds like you got the thermostat wired wrong. Furnace wires both go to thermostat. Positive from furnace to r on the thermostat and the negative from the furnace goes to the w on the thermostat
Fan high and go to low toggle switch that is an on on switch then the wire from the toggle switch to the g on the thermostat.
@@dan8220 that’s what I was thinking but don’t know which ones are wrong
They lied to you. A separate a/c unit that plugs in to a different circuit (110) The cord actually plugs into the recepeticle in the box at any RV Park. My RV is 30 Amp and I added another unit with no electrical modifications.
No I understand, what they are saying. They can’t add one to a 30 amp service in the coach. They per policy can not hook up a separate power cord for separate plug in. They told me it could be done but they as a dealer cannot do it.
If you do add a second unit, be sure to add SoftStarts to each unit or you will trip your breaker when the second unit kicks on. Also, do an energy audit to be sure you will not exceed your overall capaciyy.