You'll need a number of different knuckle (we call the stub axles in Australia) designs for different diameter wheels to get that scrub radius right., and different steering arms for different wheel bases and different tracks (width) to get the Ackerman angle correct (for toe out on turns). Exciting times ahead!
Hello, indeed. For this reason, I will build the wheels with a commercial hub. Then, the same knuckle will always work. I'm reverse engineering this hub to be able to put it in the drawings and I'll try to make one myself. Cheers!
Make sure you wear something with sleaves when grinding. I spent the last 2-3 weeks cutting microscopic shards out of my forearms. The itching and eventual infection was VERY uncomfortable. Type of metal may have contributed but regardless, be safe. You really do make each version a big improvement yet more simplified. You ro😃ck Pedro
Thank you for making such a caring comment! Indeed, I should be more careful with the bits of metal flying in flames! I hope you are alright now after what happened to you! You Rock! Cheers!
Very exciting progress. The use of 3D printed metal parts will make this a much more accessible project to the hobbyist. I’d also add that brazing or TIG welding steel is much easier and probably more reliable for the beginner. This can be made with a steel bike and main frame.
Thank yo so much! Indeed I try to make this project accessible to others by sharing the drawings and making them manufacturable (I'm a backyard maker after all ;)). I agree that steel is much easier to work with but being able to make a more rigid chassis that is much lighter makes it worth to use aluminum. Cheers!
Can't wait to see the front end build! Looking forward to seeing how much it weighs. You have inspired me to get making again - I used to make stuff when I was a boy. Thanks!
Uauu! This is a big compliment! I do try to inspire others to build;) thank you so much for inspiring me to continue doing this work ;) and good luck with your builds!
I'm very impressed with your design and fabrication skills. While cable steering is more sophisticated that a protruding undercarriage bar /shaft linkage, cables are exposed to road hazards and they stretch and need adjustment, especially when under load and hard cornering. A better, although more complex concept would be to use beveled gears enclosed in sealed, grease packed, gear boxes at the 3 points of intersection. Done right, the gear boxes would be robust and infused structurally as part of the frame. Within the tubing that connect them and the frame together, would be the shaft/rods (bushings/bearings,and seals) that transfer the rotational force applied to the handle bars directly. All would run inside the tubing that connects the forward steering assembly to the rear of the vehicle. So...one gear box converts the (near) vertical rotation of the handle bar shaft into the horizontal force moving forward to a second beveled gear box that transfers the horizontal rotation into the offset vertical force that connects to the third box at the intersection of the frame and steering wheel assembly. Everything is sealed and protecting inside the frame tubing. Use small zerk fittings to assure indefinite, trouble free operation. There is no better way to do this.
Hello, thank you very much for your kind words and also for the very completely described suggestion. To be honest, I'm very curious to see how the steering will work. I enjoy the simplicity and light weight of it but, of course, it may not be great, making it not suitable. The system that you describe, as I understand, is almost like a car steering rack - which is the best known system, I would say. Let's see how this works and then we think of improvements;) Cheers!
I can't wait to find out how much it weighs all up, moving to aluminum should make a huge difference. The new font end is looking great too. Cable steering looks very tidy and I like that you saved yourself the lathing by having the parts milled by pcbway. Well done!
Hi Pedro, as usual yet another video that is a source of learning for me, I hope soon to post a few videos also about my build and contribuite to this fantastic community also
This is (once again) brilliant and very motivating! I am still working on my welding skills but hope to have my own DIY cargo bike within the next year!
Hello Pedro, One thing I thought could use revision was the caster. I think you should have tried 8 degrees and 12 degrees before locking in 10 degrees of caster. I see many improvements in the videography also. Great job !
Indeed I did not do a fine tune to the caster. I left it an 10 because I was happy with it but it sure can be improved. Thank you for the kind comment! Cheers!
super cool. Ihave tried to build one and failed . it was all steel. Investing in so many tools for a once off build seems to be non cost efficient. YOu are doing a fantastic job sharing all this.
Hello, thank you so much for the tip! Though, sorry, but I don't understand this one. If you can, I would truly appreciate a link to an image or video with a representation of what you described. Thanks, cheers!
@@pedro-neves Of course I can't be certain what "glennmorgan" means. But I would assume that he means a jig that has a ""base"" that fits to, and can be "fixed to" the pipe that You want to cut. And in that base there is also an arrangement that "holds" the hole-saw in the "absolute correct alignment"while it runs. That way letting You cutting pipes that "mate perfectly" in a predictable and repeatable way. There are many different ways to achieve this, If You search for "tube notcher" You can find some examples. Though they are usually quite large, and made for holding a "loose pipe" in place, rather than to be put "on to" a tube... But You might get the "gist" of the idea, and then possibly be able to adapt it to Your needs and requirements. Best regards.
@@mrdr9534 thank yo so much for chiming in! Indeed my notching method is not something that I'm trying to communicate as "good". It was just what I had in hand. I saw this notching jig on bike maker video and I think I'll make one of those one day: th-cam.com/video/eBso1qJHZLY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=qnC0ei28sYYlJQ1d&t=402. Cheers!
Thank you very much! Indeed it is a lot of work to build one of these. But, I'm still prototyping which means every part is made for the first time. If I ever reach a build that I feel is good enough for a product, I start working in fabricating it more easily. Cheers!
2:45 I would suggest one of those small belt sanders for the modification of the head tube. It would be so much easier and faster than hand sanding with a pipe. You may have the patience to spend hours on that, but most fabricators have one of those. It's inexpensive and much more effective. 😮
Totally agree! Actually, I have one of those on my list for a while now. Also to sand corners they are great! But I can only afford a few things at the time. This time, my big purchase was the TIG welding machine and Gas bottle. Cheers!
Well, I think it may have been easier and quicker to keep the tube you cut off at the front and cut the wider pipe open and weld it to the donator bike after adding some additional support rings or strips. Thanks for the effort to explain your work and for sharing this video!
Thank you so much! Indeed, the adaptation of the head tube can be done in different ways. I try to play the game of designing for my backyard build capabilities and tools;) Cheers!
Aluminum (especially the alloys used in bike frames) needs to be annealed, heat treated, and aged in order to normalize the metal post-welding so it will be structurally sound and not rapidly fail near the welds. This usually involves large chemical baths and ovens to heat, maintain, and taper over specific time periods at specific temperatures. How will you be addressing this requirement so the frame is safe to use?
Hello, yes, indeed a vehicle chassis needs to be proper. I''m still prototyping. If I'll ever get to product, it will be built in accordance to frame building standards for sure.
Great work, I might be stealing your method of cutting the tube intersections! I'm apprehensive about the cable steering. I've used a (2-wheeled) cargo bike with cable steering, but it felt quite spongy, and it was a little bit cumbersome to tighten. I think with linkages you'd get more rigidity. But this is just my experience, have you ridden cable-steered bikes before? What are your experiences with it? I'm curious to hear your experiences and thoughts! - I'm not trying to dissuade you, I just wanted bring it up, and it comes from a place of admiration! Keep it up!
Thank you very much! I am also quite curious about the experience with cable steering. I always wanted to make it because it's lighter and looks overall better than a long connection bar but I never tested such a thing. I was inspired by another maker on TH-cam that made this system and said it was great: th-cam.com/video/Ie3uTHq4LSE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=uDS4aGsoCWcm_rla. Good luck with your builds!
My current cargobike (2-wheel Long-John style) also uses cable steering from the factory. I like it as it easier to "hide" and can create a greater turning angle if set-up correctly. I found the bikes that I tested with a steering rod, to feel less agile. One remark though, the factory system (Cangoo Buzz) uses much larger "pulleys" then the ones used by Pedro and Phil. Maybe this is in an attempt to reduce the torque required to steer the bike when it is loaded?
@@F20A2T thanks for sharing that this other system uses larger pulleys. Good point with the torque. Will certainly have that in mind if I think it needs to be easier to turn. Cheers!
Very nice Video and great overall Project But (based on the 54x2 Aluminium Tube stated on youre website) i think the front extension is not strong enough(for loanding up and logevity) Roughly estimated around 154kg of permissable Gross weight (which is a little bit low for a electric cargo bike)4
Thank you very much! Indeed, that tube is not sufficient. I haven't mentioned in this video because I haven't started designing yet but the overall structure will be reinforced by the cargo bay which will also be made out of aluminum tubes. Cheers!
Think I would not cut off the original head tube, but design add on to it. So bike can be convert back to sell it as normal bike. For bicycle seems too many part adding weight. Can u come up with simpler design with less part? I believed design need further refining.
Hello, indeed I have seen adaptations to an original bike's head tube. The design that I have does not add parts to the head tube. I simply make it longer. I agree with you that the simpler it is, the better. This project has been an iterative process of improvement and I'm sure there will be improvements to this design indeed! Cheers!
Hello, I exported in stp and made it available for download in my website: powercircuits.nl/tadpole-tilting-cargo-trike/. I would appreciate it if you would give me some feedback if the format worked for you so that I know it's a good one to share. Cheers!
Hello, as I mentioned in the video, I'm sharing the design of the parts that are ready and built - the frame and cable steering. The front is still in design phase. Soon I'll close the design and build the front and share the design for that as well. Cheers!
Hello, I'm using two types of ball joints in this build. - These are on the wheel side: www.profibohrer.de/M12-angle-ball-joint-rod-end-bearing-SQ-12-RS. - These are on the frame side: www.amazon.nl/-/en/gp/product/B0BB94X5PQ. Cheers!
Hello. first I like to say this is an awesome video. I enjoyed it very much. I'm working with a program Solid Works. Is it possible for you to share files as stl perhaps? And id like to know if you are going to share any front videos. I'm trying to build my own trike too :) and thank you again for a very exciting video.
Hello and thank you very much! I'm sharing the project also in .step format which should work in Solid Works. This contains all the parts and assembly in one file. Can you check if it works? Cheers!
@@ilkerduman5408 my pleasure, thank you too! I am working now in the front and will release the files every time together with the build video. I think that this makes sense because this way the video is sort of a build instruction for the CAD drawings. I'm thinking that the next build video will be ready before 15-Aug. Cheers!
You can tell you have the geometry nailed by how it performs in the ride footage. It looks so balanced and elegant which is something you can't say about many cargo bikes. I'm a little concerned about the strength of the headtube/ extension tube connection given the load from both ends and the length of the lever arm. I think a small gusset there might be necessary but you have probably considered all this? Thanks for sharing
Thank you very much for the kind words! Regarding the strength, I haven't mentioned in this video because I haven't started designing but the cargo bay will be made of aluminum tubing and this will add rigidity to the whole structure (like the body of a car is structural). Cheers!
@@pedro-neves Ah, I see! I doubted any oversight on your part given your approach generally and your initial version has the extension tube extending back to the BB. I look forward to seeing it develop further. I have a touring trike design bubbling away in the background of my brain and soak up as much reliable design information as I can find. Your adjustable geometry rigs are inspired. All the best
@@LaughingGravy.01 indeed in my previous design I used only the tube. But even being steel I noticed that it could have a little bit less elasticity. I'll fix that in this design with the frame of the cargo bay. Good luck with your build! Makes me happy that my videos help with ideas ;) Cheers!
@@satchelsieniewicz5824 indeed. The drawings have as much as the video shows: frame extension and cable steering. Now, I finished the design of the Caster plates, wishbones and knuckles and I'm finishing building and will publish that soon. I'm basically sharing the results while I make it instead of waiting for the end and publishing all. Hope it makes sense. Cheers!
Hi, good question. It feels sturdy. And, there will be added rigidity when I build the cargo bay also out of aluminum tubing. In the end, I'll perform lots of tests. Cheers!
Hi, good catch! I absolutely overlooked it. At this point, I'm only putting it together. When it's getting ready to ride, I'll take good care of the mechanical details. Cheers!
Alo Pedro!! Antonio-Urban Culture here. Enviei email . Recebeste? Quando puderes confirma, ok? Caso queiras, podes contatar-me mesmo durante o fim de semana. Sem problema. Abração!! 😎🌊
Hi Glenn, indeed, I did use Argon gas. The bottle is not visible when I'm welding in the shed, but there's a partial view of it when I'm welding outside at 12:38. Cheers!
Olá Pedro!! Daqui Antonio, em Portugal. Excelente conteudo dos videos que Tu produzes!! Como posso contatar contigo diretamente? Não encontrei contacto. Muito Grato e continua Estes videos tão competentes
@pedro-neves Já agora, adicionei o meu contacto telefonico no email que te enviei. Quando puderes, confirma SE recebeste o email. Tem um anexo em video e não sei se ultrapassa os limited do Hotmail ... See ya soon!! Abração do Antonio
Pedro, I love that you've managed to design your own cargo bike frame, but the methods of fabrication that you use are so frustrating to watch that I want to reach in the screen and stop you 😀
I think you’re missing a point here - this video is intended for the common DIY builder. There are always better ways of reaching the end goal, and not everyone would have access to a fully tooled metal workshop. What’s truly amazing on Pedro’s builds, is his resourcefulness in regards to tooling and space limitations. The upside to some rough methods is that it mirrors the condition of most of home DIY builders out there. We’d all love to have a full machining workshop in our backyard…
Hi Glenn, indeed my backyard building capabilities are not professional grade;) But, I build with what I have and I keep improving. And I try to inspire others to do it like that - start your project with what you have. Cheers!
Might i compel you to construct the Italian Cargo Bike starting with a Wooden Shipping pallet between the front wheels which is great for building merchant cargo bikes for selling food or ice cream or Hot dogs or crepés or icee's or Drink's Fruit
I dont understand why you dont make the rear wheel 20 inch. Its stronger, you can run bigger softer tires and the bike becomes schorter. There is no good reason for a large rear wheel on a cargo bike...
Hi, indeed I've been seeing cargo bike manufacturers using smaller wheels in the back. And your arguments make sense. I must admit - the main reason why I'm using a 28 inch wheel in the back is because I'm converting an existing bike. When I reach a "final" front design I will give some care to the rear for sure. Cheers!
There's a great reason to use a large rear wheel: the ride quality is better because it has a lower angle of attack over an obstacle. You can still use large volume tires to improve small bump compliance.
Since you've got disc brakes, you can experiment with 27.5 or 26" rear wheels using fat tyres! 27.5 / 650B with 50mm+ wide tyres comes out to nearly the same outer diameter as 28" with 35s while being a lot more comfier, agile, and in theory stronger. @@pedro-neves
@@Lolwutfordawin thank you for the suggestion! Actually, I never thought of changing the wheel size to smaller but you are right, it is possible because of the disc brake. The truth is, I'm dedicating all of my efforts to the front now but once that reached a stable revision, then I'll start working on the rear. Cheers!
Agree. I would also advise to use safety glasses with the rotating wire brush and to use both hands on the angle grinder. It‘s for your own best, Pedro!
@@2000bvz thanks for chiming in on this one. There I was thinking that I'm trying to influence people to work safely and yet providing an incorrect instruction. Duly noted and will keep it in mind.
You'll need a number of different knuckle (we call the stub axles in Australia) designs for different diameter wheels to get that scrub radius right., and different steering arms for different wheel bases and different tracks (width) to get the Ackerman angle correct (for toe out on turns). Exciting times ahead!
Hello, indeed. For this reason, I will build the wheels with a commercial hub. Then, the same knuckle will always work. I'm reverse engineering this hub to be able to put it in the drawings and I'll try to make one myself.
Cheers!
Make sure you wear something with sleaves when grinding. I spent the last 2-3 weeks cutting microscopic shards out of my forearms. The itching and eventual infection was VERY uncomfortable. Type of metal may have contributed but regardless, be safe.
You really do make each version a big improvement yet more simplified. You ro😃ck Pedro
Thank you for making such a caring comment! Indeed, I should be more careful with the bits of metal flying in flames!
I hope you are alright now after what happened to you!
You Rock!
Cheers!
Very exciting progress. The use of 3D printed metal parts will make this a much more accessible project to the hobbyist. I’d also add that brazing or TIG welding steel is much easier and probably more reliable for the beginner. This can be made with a steel bike and main frame.
Thank yo so much!
Indeed I try to make this project accessible to others by sharing the drawings and making them manufacturable (I'm a backyard maker after all ;)).
I agree that steel is much easier to work with but being able to make a more rigid chassis that is much lighter makes it worth to use aluminum.
Cheers!
Can't wait to see the front end build! Looking forward to seeing how much it weighs. You have inspired me to get making again - I used to make stuff when I was a boy. Thanks!
Uauu! This is a big compliment! I do try to inspire others to build;) thank you so much for inspiring me to continue doing this work ;) and good luck with your builds!
I'm very impressed with your design and fabrication skills. While cable steering is more sophisticated that a protruding undercarriage bar /shaft linkage, cables are exposed to road hazards and they stretch and need adjustment, especially when under load and hard cornering. A better, although more complex concept would be to use beveled gears enclosed in sealed, grease packed, gear boxes at the 3 points of intersection. Done right, the gear boxes would be robust and infused structurally as part of the frame. Within the tubing that connect them and the frame together, would be the shaft/rods (bushings/bearings,and seals) that transfer the rotational force applied to the handle bars directly. All would run inside the tubing that connects the forward steering assembly to the rear of the vehicle. So...one gear box converts the (near) vertical rotation of the handle bar shaft into the horizontal force moving forward to a second beveled gear box that transfers the horizontal rotation into the offset vertical force that connects to the third box at the intersection of the frame and steering wheel assembly. Everything is sealed and protecting inside the frame tubing. Use small zerk fittings to assure indefinite, trouble free operation. There is no better way to do this.
Hello, thank you very much for your kind words and also for the very completely described suggestion.
To be honest, I'm very curious to see how the steering will work. I enjoy the simplicity and light weight of it but, of course, it may not be great, making it not suitable.
The system that you describe, as I understand, is almost like a car steering rack - which is the best known system, I would say.
Let's see how this works and then we think of improvements;)
Cheers!
Pedro Neves, I subscribed because your videos are super cool!
Thank you so much! You are super cool!
I can't wait to find out how much it weighs all up, moving to aluminum should make a huge difference. The new font end is looking great too. Cable steering looks very tidy and I like that you saved yourself the lathing by having the parts milled by pcbway. Well done!
Thank you so much! This frame is indeed much lighter! I just put it in my notes to have it weighed for the next video;)
Cheers!
I am building a yuba supermarche, addon mid drive with an aftermarket front two wheel conversion. But this build geometry is so much better.
Thank you very much! And good luck with your build!
Hi Pedro, as usual yet another video that is a source of learning for me, I hope soon to post a few videos also about my build and contribuite to this fantastic community also
Thank you so much for your kind words;) I would love to see your build! Please make sure to share a link when you're ready.
Cheers!
This is (once again) brilliant and very motivating! I am still working on my welding skills but hope to have my own DIY cargo bike within the next year!
Thank you so much for the kind words! And good luck with your build!
Sensacional, Pedro!
Thank you very much!!
Hello Pedro, One thing I thought could use revision was the caster. I think you should have tried 8 degrees and 12 degrees before locking in 10 degrees of caster. I see many improvements in the videography also. Great job !
Indeed I did not do a fine tune to the caster. I left it an 10 because I was happy with it but it sure can be improved.
Thank you for the kind comment!
Cheers!
Great job 👏 😊
Thank you!
super cool. Ihave tried to build one and failed . it was all steel. Investing in so many tools for a once off build seems to be non cost efficient. YOu are doing a fantastic job sharing all this.
Thank you so much! I try to build it with the tools that I have and invest bit by bit when I see an improvement opportunity.
Cheers!
Thanks for sharing your process! Looking grear so far
You are welcome! Thank you so much for your support!
3:41 I would also recommend a pocket jig to use a hole saw on the ends of the pipe. Once again, it's faster and more accurate 😊
Hello, thank you so much for the tip! Though, sorry, but I don't understand this one. If you can, I would truly appreciate a link to an image or video with a representation of what you described.
Thanks, cheers!
@@pedro-neves Of course I can't be certain what "glennmorgan" means. But I would assume that he means a jig that has a ""base"" that fits to, and can be "fixed to" the pipe that You want to cut. And in that base there is also an arrangement that "holds" the hole-saw in the "absolute correct alignment"while it runs. That way letting You cutting pipes that "mate perfectly" in a predictable and repeatable way.
There are many different ways to achieve this, If You search for "tube notcher" You can find some examples. Though they are usually quite large, and made for holding a "loose pipe" in place, rather than to be put "on to" a tube... But You might get the "gist" of the idea, and then possibly be able to adapt it to Your needs and requirements.
Best regards.
@@mrdr9534 thank yo so much for chiming in! Indeed my notching method is not something that I'm trying to communicate as "good". It was just what I had in hand.
I saw this notching jig on bike maker video and I think I'll make one of those one day: th-cam.com/video/eBso1qJHZLY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=qnC0ei28sYYlJQ1d&t=402.
Cheers!
Fantastic!
@@moniquepascaud7223 thank you!
Great job. After seeing amount of aluminium and metal 3d printed parts needed I start thinking UrbanArrow is not that expensive.
Thank you very much!
Indeed it is a lot of work to build one of these. But, I'm still prototyping which means every part is made for the first time. If I ever reach a build that I feel is good enough for a product, I start working in fabricating it more easily.
Cheers!
2:45 I would suggest one of those small belt sanders for the modification of the head tube. It would be so much easier and faster than hand sanding with a pipe. You may have the patience to spend hours on that, but most fabricators have one of those. It's inexpensive and much more effective. 😮
Totally agree! Actually, I have one of those on my list for a while now. Also to sand corners they are great! But I can only afford a few things at the time. This time, my big purchase was the TIG welding machine and Gas bottle.
Cheers!
Nice work, it's a pleasure to watch!
Thank you so much!
Well, I think it may have been easier and quicker to keep the tube you cut off at the front and cut the wider pipe open and weld it to the donator bike after adding some additional support rings or strips. Thanks for the effort to explain your work and for sharing this video!
Thank you so much!
Indeed, the adaptation of the head tube can be done in different ways. I try to play the game of designing for my backyard build capabilities and tools;)
Cheers!
Nice Logo!
I told you I took your suggestion seriously!;) Thank you so much! It's incredible how much things can be improved when sharing.
Cheers!
Extraordinário!
Obrigado!
Aluminum (especially the alloys used in bike frames) needs to be annealed, heat treated, and aged in order to normalize the metal post-welding so it will be structurally sound and not rapidly fail near the welds. This usually involves large chemical baths and ovens to heat, maintain, and taper over specific time periods at specific temperatures. How will you be addressing this requirement so the frame is safe to use?
Hello, yes, indeed a vehicle chassis needs to be proper. I''m still prototyping. If I'll ever get to product, it will be built in accordance to frame building standards for sure.
Great work, I might be stealing your method of cutting the tube intersections! I'm apprehensive about the cable steering. I've used a (2-wheeled) cargo bike with cable steering, but it felt quite spongy, and it was a little bit cumbersome to tighten. I think with linkages you'd get more rigidity. But this is just my experience, have you ridden cable-steered bikes before? What are your experiences with it? I'm curious to hear your experiences and thoughts! - I'm not trying to dissuade you, I just wanted bring it up, and it comes from a place of admiration! Keep it up!
Thank you very much!
I am also quite curious about the experience with cable steering. I always wanted to make it because it's lighter and looks overall better than a long connection bar but I never tested such a thing. I was inspired by another maker on TH-cam that made this system and said it was great: th-cam.com/video/Ie3uTHq4LSE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=uDS4aGsoCWcm_rla.
Good luck with your builds!
My current cargobike (2-wheel Long-John style) also uses cable steering from the factory. I like it as it easier to "hide" and can create a greater turning angle if set-up correctly. I found the bikes that I tested with a steering rod, to feel less agile.
One remark though, the factory system (Cangoo Buzz) uses much larger "pulleys" then the ones used by Pedro and Phil. Maybe this is in an attempt to reduce the torque required to steer the bike when it is loaded?
@@F20A2T thanks for sharing that this other system uses larger pulleys. Good point with the torque. Will certainly have that in mind if I think it needs to be easier to turn.
Cheers!
What motivated the choice of a modern headset for the first steering shaft, and a "vintage" headset for the second one?
Good question. - I had an old fork of each kind that I could use to extend;)
Cheers!
Very nice Video and great overall Project
But (based on the 54x2 Aluminium Tube stated on youre website) i think the front extension is not strong enough(for loanding up and logevity)
Roughly estimated around 154kg of permissable Gross weight (which is a little bit low for a electric cargo bike)4
Thank you very much!
Indeed, that tube is not sufficient. I haven't mentioned in this video because I haven't started designing yet but the overall structure will be reinforced by the cargo bay which will also be made out of aluminum tubes.
Cheers!
@@pedro-neves great work
keep it up and have an beautiful day
@@harrie205 thank you so much! You too!
Think I would not cut off the original head tube, but design add on to it. So bike can be convert back to sell it as normal bike. For bicycle seems too many part adding weight. Can u come up with simpler design with less part? I believed design need further refining.
Hello, indeed I have seen adaptations to an original bike's head tube. The design that I have does not add parts to the head tube. I simply make it longer.
I agree with you that the simpler it is, the better. This project has been an iterative process of improvement and I'm sure there will be improvements to this design indeed!
Cheers!
Could you also export the part and assembly CAD files in .stp format? It would be great to open in SolidEdge as well.
Hello, I exported in stp and made it available for download in my website: powercircuits.nl/tadpole-tilting-cargo-trike/.
I would appreciate it if you would give me some feedback if the format worked for you so that I know it's a good one to share.
Cheers!
Great stuff. I downloaded the Step file and it opened without problem. Looking forward to the next video with the suspension.
@@jph219 thanks for the feedback. I also noticed that you left a contribution. I want you to know that it means the world to me.
Hero! Thanks for sharing 👍
My pleasure! Thank you for supporting and for the kind words!
Hi . Thanks for sharing the basics on fusion360
Why in fusion360 do I see the frame but not the front system?😀
Hello, as I mentioned in the video, I'm sharing the design of the parts that are ready and built - the frame and cable steering. The front is still in design phase. Soon I'll close the design and build the front and share the design for that as well.
Cheers!
Looking good.
Thank you!
Hi pedro, what kind of ball joints did you use for the suspension, i have bought rod ends from cars but are quite big and stiff
Hello, I'm using two types of ball joints in this build.
- These are on the wheel side: www.profibohrer.de/M12-angle-ball-joint-rod-end-bearing-SQ-12-RS.
- These are on the frame side: www.amazon.nl/-/en/gp/product/B0BB94X5PQ.
Cheers!
@@pedro-neves thank you so much
@@hojbota-ptv you're welcome ;)
Hello. first I like to say this is an awesome video. I enjoyed it very much. I'm working with a program Solid Works. Is it possible for you to share files as stl perhaps?
And id like to know if you are going to share any front videos.
I'm trying to build my own trike too :)
and thank you again for a very exciting video.
Hello and thank you very much!
I'm sharing the project also in .step format which should work in Solid Works. This contains all the parts and assembly in one file. Can you check if it works?
Cheers!
@@pedro-neves It does thank you so very much for it all.
are you going to share any videos of the front perhaps?
@@ilkerduman5408 my pleasure, thank you too! I am working now in the front and will release the files every time together with the build video. I think that this makes sense because this way the video is sort of a build instruction for the CAD drawings.
I'm thinking that the next build video will be ready before 15-Aug.
Cheers!
You can tell you have the geometry nailed by how it performs in the ride footage. It looks so balanced and elegant which is something you can't say about many cargo bikes. I'm a little concerned about the strength of the headtube/ extension tube connection given the load from both ends and the length of the lever arm. I think a small gusset there might be necessary but you have probably considered all this? Thanks for sharing
Thank you very much for the kind words!
Regarding the strength, I haven't mentioned in this video because I haven't started designing but the cargo bay will be made of aluminum tubing and this will add rigidity to the whole structure (like the body of a car is structural).
Cheers!
@@pedro-neves Ah, I see! I doubted any oversight on your part given your approach generally and your initial version has the extension tube extending back to the BB. I look forward to seeing it develop further. I have a touring trike design bubbling away in the background of my brain and soak up as much reliable design information as I can find. Your adjustable geometry rigs are inspired. All the best
@@LaughingGravy.01 indeed in my previous design I used only the tube. But even being steel I noticed that it could have a little bit less elasticity. I'll fix that in this design with the frame of the cargo bay.
Good luck with your build! Makes me happy that my videos help with ideas ;)
Cheers!
Your linked cad model seams not to have the front end geometry
@@satchelsieniewicz5824 indeed. The drawings have as much as the video shows: frame extension and cable steering. Now, I finished the design of the Caster plates, wishbones and knuckles and I'm finishing building and will publish that soon.
I'm basically sharing the results while I make it instead of waiting for the end and publishing all. Hope it makes sense.
Cheers!
Gracias!
Thank you too!
Are long aluminium tubes strong and rigid enough ?
Hi, good question. It feels sturdy. And, there will be added rigidity when I build the cargo bay also out of aluminum tubing.
In the end, I'll perform lots of tests.
Cheers!
19:20 The wording here makes it seem like you've completely overlooked the concept of headset preload.
Hi, good catch! I absolutely overlooked it. At this point, I'm only putting it together. When it's getting ready to ride, I'll take good care of the mechanical details.
Cheers!
Alo Pedro!! Antonio-Urban Culture here. Enviei email . Recebeste? Quando puderes confirma, ok? Caso queiras, podes contatar-me mesmo durante o fim de semana. Sem problema. Abração!! 😎🌊
Abraço!
4:44 Aren't you supposed to be using a shielding gas on the TIG welding to prevent contamination of the welds?
What makes you think he did‘t use gas??
Hi Glenn, indeed, I did use Argon gas. The bottle is not visible when I'm welding in the shed, but there's a partial view of it when I'm welding outside at 12:38.
Cheers!
Too many parts to make the front wheel turn. A simple rod could do the same job with a fraction of time. Sometimes less is more.
wired vs rod, wired steering is more direct and uniform. I like my Yuba supermarche steering
Olá Pedro!! Daqui Antonio, em Portugal. Excelente conteudo dos videos que Tu produzes!! Como posso contatar contigo diretamente? Não encontrei contacto.
Muito Grato e continua Estes videos tão competentes
Olá António, muito obrigado pelas palavras tão simpáticas!
Se quiser pode contactar pelo meu email: pncneves@hotmail.com.
Cumprimentos!
Combinado!! Vou enviar mail nos proximos dias! Abração
@@antonio-urbanculture Abração!
@@pedro-neves mail enviado!!
@pedro-neves Já agora, adicionei o meu contacto telefonico no email que te enviei. Quando puderes, confirma SE recebeste o email. Tem um anexo em video e não sei se ultrapassa os limited do Hotmail ... See ya soon!! Abração do Antonio
Pedro, I love that you've managed to design your own cargo bike frame, but the methods of fabrication that you use are so frustrating to watch that I want to reach in the screen and stop you 😀
I think you’re missing a point here - this video is intended for the common DIY builder. There are always better ways of reaching the end goal, and not everyone would have access to a fully tooled metal workshop. What’s truly amazing on Pedro’s builds, is his resourcefulness in regards to tooling and space limitations. The upside to some rough methods is that it mirrors the condition of most of home DIY builders out there. We’d all love to have a full machining workshop in our backyard…
Hi Glenn, indeed my backyard building capabilities are not professional grade;) But, I build with what I have and I keep improving. And I try to inspire others to do it like that - start your project with what you have.
Cheers!
Might i compel you to construct the Italian Cargo Bike starting with a Wooden Shipping pallet between the front wheels which is great for building merchant cargo bikes for selling food or ice cream or Hot dogs or crepés or icee's or Drink's Fruit
Hello, I do hope one of my builds will be doing something like that one day, indeed!
Cheers!
I dont understand why you dont make the rear wheel 20 inch. Its stronger, you can run bigger softer tires and the bike becomes schorter. There is no good reason for a large rear wheel on a cargo bike...
Hi, indeed I've been seeing cargo bike manufacturers using smaller wheels in the back. And your arguments make sense.
I must admit - the main reason why I'm using a 28 inch wheel in the back is because I'm converting an existing bike. When I reach a "final" front design I will give some care to the rear for sure.
Cheers!
There's a great reason to use a large rear wheel: the ride quality is better because it has a lower angle of attack over an obstacle. You can still use large volume tires to improve small bump compliance.
@@ericschleppenbach3519 , agree. It's a game of finding the best compromise.
Since you've got disc brakes, you can experiment with 27.5 or 26" rear wheels using fat tyres! 27.5 / 650B with 50mm+ wide tyres comes out to nearly the same outer diameter as 28" with 35s while being a lot more comfier, agile, and in theory stronger. @@pedro-neves
@@Lolwutfordawin thank you for the suggestion! Actually, I never thought of changing the wheel size to smaller but you are right, it is possible because of the disc brake.
The truth is, I'm dedicating all of my efforts to the front now but once that reached a stable revision, then I'll start working on the rear.
Cheers!
I think it's dangerous to wear gloves while working with any rotating tool.
Agree. I would also advise to use safety glasses with the rotating wire brush and to use both hands on the angle grinder. It‘s for your own best, Pedro!
Hello, intuitively, I fell safer with gloves. Sometimes there is an accidental rub of the grinding wheel against the glove, and they do a good job!
indeed the wire brush throws some wire around! Thank you!
That was how I was taught as well. Any rotary tool is always used with bare hands.
@@2000bvz thanks for chiming in on this one. There I was thinking that I'm trying to influence people to work safely and yet providing an incorrect instruction. Duly noted and will keep it in mind.
Explain in your language will be better
Hello, I try to do the best I can with English to reach more people.
@@pedro-neves So glad you do use English!
@@andrewmclean1239 thank you! I'm glad you fond value in listening to it;)
@@pedro-nevesyour English is fine and easy to understand.
@@ciberbri59 thank you! I try to make it understandable.
thank you your buiild is amazing
Thank you so much!