i have been working on bikes for years.. but just started getting these can-am bikes in... thanks for the video... got one in now with only 63 hours on it.. the customer sunk it. changed oil 3 times and filter.. still ticking and knocking at high rpms... no ticking while idleing...
I have the shop manual, and it is helpful. However, this video is a reference for me, I've watched it at least 15 times so far. Awesome, excellent and super helpful. I'm right at the point where I'll be re-assembling my engine. Thanks a ton Shane!
I'm near Dallas I've owned plenty of different machines Can am by far are the easiest engines to repair They all have pro and cons Imop the ride says it all Lol
Shane, I have no oil preasure in my '07 650xt outty. Need to replace chains also. Can I clean the screen in the case somehow with out splitting the case? If I need to rebuild the motor, do I need to replace piston rings? Are the cylinders coated or do I hone them? Thing has only 1000 miles and I think shreds of the guides plugged the screen. Also can you replace both guides without pulling the head? You do rock on how good you are at working on a can am and have made me very comfortable on attempting to rebuild my own motor if need be, Thanks man
I seem to be the only one that has cleaned the screen without splitting the case. It has been don and I have done it. I did a write up in the can-am forum under fatcatsailor if you care to view it. Shane is the man for all other advise as he has helped me a lot! Hope this helps
+Robert Skillings it can be done, but what I find is usually clogging the oil ports in the crank if screen is bad enough to need cleaning, cleaning without splitting can help some but will not restore correct oil barrier on the rod to crank bearing surface that these engines run on
I have a 570 and recently changed the engine oil. have threaded at the sump plug got a 14 x 1.5 mm re threader to re thread and have a 9/16 hex bolt im thinking of using The length is 25mm would that be a safe, clearance as the original sump plug is 19 mm in length ! would really appreciate any fed back. such a great video subbed from scotland
sounds like spun or stacked rod bearings the good news is the crank is turnable and the work can be done yourself the bad news is dealers charge 2500 to 3000 to do this job as they will not turn a crank, they replace it cost on this job will be as follows machine work $150 bearings and gaskets $350 connecting rods are $135 each and an 07 would get new cam chains and guides if it was mine $225 where is it located and how much do you want for it?
the cam gear is not seated square on the cam most likely, you will need to probably change the trigger (its probably bent now) and the cam sensor and possibly the cam, I have actually done that one time, its been years ago but I didnt seat the gear square on that notch
I like your video, unfortunately i have an 05 650 traxter max xt...i have looked hi and low..cant find any good info on this motor...not even a good compression number. Anyhow..if you know of similar video to yours, for single cylinder version of the brp 650..i would love to know
Great vid. I wonder if you can help me. I am working on a 400 that had the decomp explode, my problem is i moved the crank around after disassembly i cant find any timing marks on the stator to get it back to TDC. there are only 1 small tab and 1 larger tab on it no timing marks that i can see.
hi, I have water in my cylindrer of my can am renegade 850 2016 the water was on top of the piston but the problem is...in the water the have some sand so it is a lot complicate for my to have the same timing after removing all the motor? I had already done a lot of snowmobile engine but it is my first time with 4 stokes,Thank for you help
Hello. Great video! Thank you. I found it because I was looking for some basic info on the cam chain tensioners on the G1 (mine is a 650XT). There is nothing worth anything on TH-cam about how they really work (there is one crappy video that basically just talks about the spring and cap in the tensioner). I do have a service manual and have reviewed it. My question is this: What is the purpose of the spring that goes in the plunger and attaches to the cap? Does the spring only keep the plunger from moving after you have set the plunger? The other video talks about "pre loading the spring by a turn or so before you start screwing in the cap. The service manual says NO. I assume that if it is "pre loaded" then the extra force on the spring could further advance the plunger setting potentially making the chain too tight? Also when you ONLY take out the cap and spring, I assume that your plunger setting should not have changed at all (therefore the timing chain tension has not either)? This whole thing came up when I realized I was leaking oil from the cap and removed the cap to check the O ring condition. Then I got concerned that I may have changed things...after your video I am assuming that answer is no. Lastly would it be advisable on my 2008 650 XT to actually take the valve covers off and and check the chain tension? Thanks!!
awesome video as well Shane!anyways on the trough shaft does the motor have to be split and tore down to put the through shaft with new bearings and seals back in it my shaft had a slight bend in it causing oil to leak from the front of it any answers will be great,as I am still a novice here...
seen you put it in after the rebuild but I am not rebuilding as the bike runs strong,just the shaft has a slight waddle if u spin it, just wondering if I pull it out will i be able to put the new back in it with out rebuilding it?
Depends on how bad it is If it's slight yes But remember you can't replace the rear bearing and seal which is probably leaking too I replace bearings and seals at the same time Not just one Check transmission for engine oil and check engine oil for transmission fluid
shanesoutty yes ,I did check that,good there was no switching of fluids visible,also the rear is not showing any signs of leaking,cleaned degreased it let it run for a good while just the front is leaking
The only reason I can think of is timing is easier when it's not building compression It has never bothered me I only pull of they are needing replacement
Very informative video. I have a kid I am 1000 outlander. I my forward piston broke and I rebuilt my entire engine. Lots of compression engine sounds good but I did not put Loctite on my magneto. The magneto is totally wiped out so I put in A new one I had lots of shavings in my filter. I cleaned everything new filter and went for a test ride. I seem to be building up crank case pressure and it is not coming out of the engine. My gauges say I have low oil and the machine goes into limp mode. When I pull the dipstick I have oil spilling out. Not sure what would cause this. Is it possible the debris screen is clogged. Or will the read valve have anything to do with this. Any advice I would be very grateful. Dennis
On the number one cylinder i did not see you install the front chain guide - the guide thats closest to the oil filter housing - I heard the head hold it in place and im about to take my 800's head off - Did you install the front chain guide ? if not why was that ? And Thank you very much for this awesome video
Great video bud. My guide tensioners are sticking out a lot. One is 7 threads and the other is 13 threads and the tensioner plunger may be touching the chain. Do I need to split the crank case ? If so do I need to replace the crank bearings and piston rings. And is there any other parts I need that I might not be thinking about?
The one that's 13 is out of spec No you dot have to split to pull chains but you do need to most likely remove heads When chains fail it generally wears the Tensioners To replace upper tensioner you have to pull head In that case I would pull motor It's easier to pull that way as well as easier to keep engine clean Engine removal is simple Takes around an hour
Great engine repair videos! Im in the state of Texas, which state are you from Shanesoutty? After two years of wating and decidinng between Polaries and Can Am I went with the Can Am. Last year I bought a new 2012 800R XMR. Is an AWESOME! machine it puts smile on my face every time i ride it. But is like everything, sooner or later i will have engine trouble. I can handle basic maintenance but nothing like engine work is just not my field.
Excellent video. I have a question I have to replace the timing chains on my 07 650 what is the black permatex you are using on the gasket and the loctite you used on the flywheel bolt looked to be blue but the manual i have calls for loctite 648 which is green. Have you had any problems using the blue.thanks
I have not had an issue w the blue the torque is so high it doesn't come loose it's more of a precaution The black is high temp permatex I use it more to hold gaskets in place
I recommend pulling it Two main reasons It's extremely easy to get dirt and debris in the heads as its tight while installing the top end The time spent for someone who hasn't done it timing the engine while in frame and adjusting the cam Tensioners is much greater than if on the bench For most it's much faster to do outside the machine Engine removal is simple on can am gen 1 4 motor mount bolts Handful of wires Two drive shafts and the throttle body Feel free to pm me any questions or to call and discuss
I have been following along with your videos which are a huge help. I have run into a problem just wondering if you have ever had the same. I torqued the flywheel bolt to 111 ft pounds using the crankshaft locking tool but now the locking tool wont come out and i have striped the inside of the Allan key. Any tips on getting it out. I was considering welding a nut to the locking tool so i could get a socket on it. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
Sounds like that's your only option I generally just use some lock tight and a big impact I've used that tool twice and almost did the exact thing your talking about so I quit doing it that way But I trust my impact
Yea I ended up splitting the case and good thing I did cause there was a lot of plastic in the sump. I also replaced the rod,crank and pto cover bearings and new rings. What oil do u use after a rebuild?
I'm a can am oil guy summer blend It doesn't get that cold here The only other oil I would use is amsoil 4 stroke But it's not easy to find Usually has to be ordered
I am no where near NH, Its a do able job, just take your time and yes, i can rebuild one in less than a half hour I have removed one, rebuilt it, reinstalled it and had it running in an hour and a half, but I do not recommend going that fast, that is how mistakes happen, this was a race motor that had a nasty deadline on it in all honesty having never done one, engine removal should take approximately an hour, break down should take an hour, assembly should take two hours and install one hour
What do you think about running it without the sensor till my new one comes in? I unplugged it and bike seems to run. If I plug it in it blows the fuse
The only parts that benefit from the lube are crank and Rod, this is a positive pressure system that rides on oil I have used it in the past and noticed no increase in longevity The can am book does not specify to use it Some mechanics do Some don't I've also found some assembly lubes can cause issues with the paper gaskets if they come in contact with them
Hey Shane.. Great set of Videos... I just done an 840 Swap on an 09 Outlander.. Had 916 MrRpm Cylinders on it that were removed and traded to Jeff at Ross Racing for the 840 Kit.. My issus seems simple enough but has me pulling my hair out.. After finishing the rebuild, I have no spark on either Plug.. I have ran diagnostics on everything and have arrived at the Coil packs.. There is 12v on the #2 Pin (center pin) but still no spark.. Is there any way that the Crank Pos Sensor could be bad or the Cam Pos Sen?? Or Im thinking the actual Plug wires themselves.. I have no easy access to other parts to swap out and try.. The 5a Ignition fuse is good as is all the rest.. Any suggestions would be apreaciated... Thanks in advance... Nathan Stiltner... Riverside Rebuilds..
shanesoutty Dont know how to pm on here, but you can go to my shops page on facebook or personal page on there.. Nathan Stiltner or Riverside Rebuilds or email.. nathanstiltner@yahoo.com
I need help with my 2012 800R xmr, my gear box is toasted, I need to know if you could fix it for me. Please let me know if this is possible. Im in the Houston TX area.
Call mrrpm He has a cheap brand new replacement in stock for half or less than stock, pm me if your needing install I know a reliable person in Houston area
The 1000 has a few small differences, the biggest dissasembly difference is the addition of one extra case bolt, its hidden behind the oil pump gear (when splitting cases) The other couple differences are the location of the cam chain tensioner and the way it is timed, can am sells a timing tool and you need it to time the three bolt cam gear bolted to the cams other than that, the crank is a larger diameter and thats about all the assembly difference there is
Hey I have been watching this video and I put my 650 together. Thanks!!! I have an huge issue! The head with the cam sensor, the weird looking arm that sits on the cam gear grinds my cam sensor and shorts stuff out! What am I doing wrong. I rode the bike for 2 weeks after I did the engine and I finally figured out my short issue when I unplugged the cam sensor wire the bike started . So I took the valve cover off and found that the arm grinder the sensor flat. Let me know if you can help me .
Yes and no Yes but you can not change the upper chain guide which is likely worn excessively The lower gear does require removal of flywheel on the magneto side Imop I would pull head and swap guides
shanesoutty ya the guide that the tensioner presses against is wore on my buddy's 07 800..both are wore right into tensioner ..so to do those guides the heads need to come off?thnx in advance
it's not hard I just got a 2009 outlander 800r with 32"silver backs on it and I got ripped off it had a bad diff,front diff,also the through shaft has to be replaced now and all bearings I am in Defuniak Springs Fl and all of my work was simple just had to watch a few videos the only thing that stumped me was getting the axles back in everything else is common since and remember how you took it apart.
Ya the axles are easy. I've replaced three and a rear diff on mine but the motor is really expensive and something I'd want to be sure was 100% correct
no two different rotax engines the can am now a 570 650 850 and 1000s i don't think the make 800 anymore the ds650 is a one cylinder rotax engine very fast it also dual over head cam these are single cam engines it one thing i like about them their simple but my engines is clean its not all mud stained
What is the torque spec for the small head bolts? I almost broke one of mine the torque spec I found was 89 in lbs which is 7.4 ft lbs but it broke before I got there. Is that to tight? Can I just snug them since the main head bolts are torqued?
I have aquestion on the seals that go from front to the back on video time 13:34 would you know the name of them or part number my fourwheeler is a 2007 800 renegade and they are leaking. Can u help me out with this???
Sorry I missed this one new crank, new rods, new pistons and new cylinders Mrrpm and others sell kits that are affordable I would also consider buying a 800 ecm and key, this can keep you from needing to re tune the machine using a fuel tuner
i have been working on bikes for years.. but just started getting these can-am bikes in... thanks for the video... got one in now with only 63 hours on it.. the customer sunk it. changed oil 3 times and filter.. still ticking and knocking at high rpms... no ticking while idleing...
The most badass youtube video on canals around. thanks so much for taking the time to help others out!
I have the shop manual, and it is helpful. However, this video is a reference for me, I've watched it at least 15 times so far. Awesome, excellent and super helpful. I'm right at the point where I'll be re-assembling my engine. Thanks a ton Shane!
Thanks for the video...Lots of good info and clear description plus good camera position...Thank you
Thank you! Assembly atm and your videos have helped me alot.
Ever heard of a cross pattern when tightening case bolts?
Unless there’s a different torque sequence, I was told 44 years ago head bolts are torqued diagonally.
Hi I need Help. My outlander 2009 800 has a lot noise on the back head. Could you made a video with assembly of the head? And measure
THANKS for the Video!
I'm near Dallas
I've owned plenty of different machines
Can am by far are the easiest engines to repair
They all have pro and cons
Imop the ride says it all
Lol
Do you have a email
Thx thr gear placement mine was backwards didn't start✌🤘
thanks for posting
Anytime
Any others you want to see post em up
i'm from brazil we have a can am 570 here it doesn't burn the rear piston what can it be give me a tip i'm almost crazy here..
Shane, I have no oil preasure in my '07 650xt outty. Need to replace chains also. Can I clean the screen in the case somehow with out splitting the case? If I need to rebuild the motor, do I need to replace piston rings? Are the cylinders coated or do I hone them? Thing has only 1000 miles and I think shreds of the guides plugged the screen. Also can you replace both guides without pulling the head? You do rock on how good you are at working on a can am and have made me very comfortable on attempting to rebuild my own motor if need be, Thanks man
I seem to be the only one that has cleaned the screen without splitting the case. It has been don and I have done it. I did a write up in the can-am forum under fatcatsailor if you care to view it. Shane is the man for all other advise as he has helped me a lot! Hope this helps
+Robert Skillings it can be done, but what I find is usually clogging the oil ports in the crank if screen is bad enough to need cleaning, cleaning without splitting can help some but will not restore correct oil barrier on the rod to crank bearing surface that these engines run on
I have a 570 and recently changed the engine oil. have threaded at the sump plug got a 14 x 1.5 mm re threader to re thread and have a 9/16 hex bolt im thinking of using The length is 25mm would that be a safe, clearance as the original sump plug is 19 mm in length ! would really appreciate any fed back. such a great video subbed from scotland
great video Shane. Why do most manuals say to remove the spark plug before removing the head? Thanks
the only reason I can think of is timing is easier with it not building compression
I do not do it unless I am changing plugs
sounds like spun or stacked rod bearings
the good news is the crank is turnable and the work can be done yourself
the bad news is dealers charge 2500 to 3000 to do this job as they will not turn a crank, they replace it
cost on this job will be as follows
machine work $150
bearings and gaskets $350
connecting rods are $135 each
and an 07 would get new cam chains and guides if it was mine
$225
where is it located and how much do you want for it?
the cam gear is not seated square on the cam most likely, you will need to probably change the trigger (its probably bent now) and the cam sensor and possibly the cam, I have actually done that one time, its been years ago but I didnt seat the gear square on that notch
Did you check the valves and guides ?
I like your video, unfortunately i have an 05 650 traxter max xt...i have looked hi and low..cant find any good info on this motor...not even a good compression number. Anyhow..if you know of similar video to yours, for single cylinder version of the brp 650..i would love to know
Great vid. I wonder if you can help me. I am working on a 400 that had the decomp explode, my problem is i moved the crank around after disassembly i cant find any timing marks on the stator to get it back to TDC. there are only 1 small tab and 1 larger tab on it no timing marks that i can see.
hi, I have water in my cylindrer of my can am renegade 850 2016 the water was on top of the piston but the problem is...in the water the have some sand so it is a lot complicate for my to have the same timing after removing all the motor? I had already done a lot of snowmobile engine but it is my first time with 4 stokes,Thank for you help
Hello. Great video! Thank you. I found it because I was looking for some basic info on the cam chain tensioners on the G1 (mine is a 650XT). There is nothing worth anything on TH-cam about how they really work (there is one crappy video that basically just talks about the spring and cap in the tensioner). I do have a service manual and have reviewed it. My question is this: What is the purpose of the spring that goes in the plunger and attaches to the cap? Does the spring only keep the plunger from moving after you have set the plunger? The other video talks about "pre loading the spring by a turn or so before you start screwing in the cap. The service manual says NO. I assume that if it is "pre loaded" then the extra force on the spring could further advance the plunger setting potentially making the chain too tight? Also when you ONLY take out the cap and spring, I assume that your plunger setting should not have changed at all (therefore the timing chain tension has not either)? This whole thing came up when I realized I was leaking oil from the cap and removed the cap to check the O ring condition. Then I got concerned that I may have changed things...after your video I am assuming that answer is no. Lastly would it be advisable on my 2008 650 XT to actually take the valve covers off and and check the chain tension? Thanks!!
The spring keeps moving adjustment in as slack occurs, keeping the chain tight, that's what I was told...
awesome video as well Shane!anyways on the trough shaft does the motor have to be split and tore down to put the through shaft with new bearings and seals back in it my shaft had a slight bend in it causing oil to leak from the front of it any answers will be great,as I am still a novice here...
seen you put it in after the rebuild but I am not rebuilding as the bike runs strong,just the shaft has a slight waddle if u spin it, just wondering if I pull it out will i be able to put the new back in it with out rebuilding it?
Depends on how bad it is
If it's slight yes
But remember you can't replace the rear bearing and seal which is probably leaking too
I replace bearings and seals at the same time
Not just one
Check transmission for engine oil and check engine oil for transmission fluid
shanesoutty yes ,I did check that,good there was no switching of fluids visible,also the rear is not showing any signs of leaking,cleaned degreased it let it run for a good while just the front is leaking
shanesoutty
ty for the answers
shanesoutty
i guess to get at the other bearings i gotta go through the transmission?
The only reason I can think of is timing is easier when it's not building compression
It has never bothered me
I only pull of they are needing replacement
just going to rebuild the entire motor since I got to replace the through shaft with a mr. rpm 840 set
What volt your impact i need for m'y engine i change m'y guide after m'y job friday
Thank you.
Nice video, wondering if there are torque specs and sequences for mag and crank case covers
Did you find the torqe specs for that? Looking for the same.
How do you remove the front output shaft that goes connect to the tranny the teeth that it had stripped
Thanks for the reply bro we're not too far I'm in the Houston area.
Setting number 2 how many full turns I did 2 full turns and it backfired
Disculpa cuantas libras de torque lleva?
Very informative video. I have a kid I am 1000 outlander. I my forward piston broke and I rebuilt my entire engine. Lots of compression engine sounds good but I did not put Loctite on my magneto. The magneto is totally wiped out so I put in A new one I had lots of shavings in my filter. I cleaned everything new filter and went for a test ride. I seem to be building up crank case pressure and it is not coming out of the engine. My gauges say I have low oil and the machine goes into limp mode. When I pull the dipstick I have oil spilling out. Not sure what would cause this. Is it possible the debris screen is clogged. Or will the read valve have anything to do with this. Any advice I would be very grateful. Dennis
On the number one cylinder i did not see you install the front chain guide - the guide thats closest to the oil filter housing - I heard the head hold it in place and im about to take my 800's head off - Did you install the front chain guide ? if not why was that ? And Thank you very much for this awesome video
Yes it goes below the head, the other guide is attached below on the case
I'm not sure why it doesn't look that way but
Yes you must have it in here
Is the 15-30-40 torque spec for the head you mention a dry or lubricated spec?
That's what I'm going to do. Thanks.
Great video bud. My guide tensioners are sticking out a lot. One is 7 threads and the other is 13 threads and the tensioner plunger may be touching the chain. Do I need to split the crank case ? If so do I need to replace the crank bearings and piston rings. And is there any other parts I need that I might not be thinking about?
The one that's 13 is out of spec
No you dot have to split to pull chains but you do need to most likely remove heads
When chains fail it generally wears the Tensioners
To replace upper tensioner you have to pull head
In that case I would pull motor
It's easier to pull that way as well as easier to keep engine clean
Engine removal is simple
Takes around an hour
Do you now the torque for the head gasket on a can am outlander 1000
Great engine repair videos! Im in the state of Texas, which state are you from Shanesoutty? After two years of wating and decidinng between Polaries and Can Am I went with the Can Am. Last year I bought a new 2012 800R XMR. Is an AWESOME! machine it puts smile on my face every time i ride it. But is like everything, sooner or later i will have engine trouble. I can handle basic maintenance but nothing like engine work is just not my field.
Excellent video. I have a question I have to replace the timing chains on my 07 650 what is the black permatex you are using on the gasket and the loctite you used on the flywheel bolt looked to be blue but the manual i have calls for loctite 648 which is green. Have you had any problems using the blue.thanks
I have not had an issue w the blue the torque is so high it doesn't come loose it's more of a precaution
The black is high temp permatex
I use it more to hold gaskets in place
Big bore kit: would you recommend In frame or pull the engine out? (Mr RPM 940 kit cylinders & pistons + cams on stock heads)
I recommend pulling it
Two main reasons
It's extremely easy to get dirt and debris in the heads as its tight while installing the top end
The time spent for someone who hasn't done it timing the engine while in frame and adjusting the cam Tensioners is much greater than if on the bench
For most it's much faster to do outside the machine
Engine removal is simple on can am gen 1
4 motor mount bolts
Handful of wires
Two drive shafts and the throttle body
Feel free to pm me any questions or to call and discuss
I have been following along with your videos which are a huge help. I have run into a problem just wondering if you have ever had the same. I torqued the flywheel bolt to 111 ft pounds using the crankshaft locking tool but now the locking tool wont come out and i have striped the inside of the Allan key. Any tips on getting it out. I was considering welding a nut to the locking tool so i could get a socket on it. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
Sounds like that's your only option
I generally just use some lock tight and a big impact
I've used that tool twice and almost did the exact thing your talking about so I quit doing it that way
But I trust my impact
Yea I ended up splitting the case and good thing I did cause there was a lot of plastic in the sump. I also replaced the rod,crank and pto cover bearings and new rings. What oil do u use after a rebuild?
I'm a can am oil guy summer blend
It doesn't get that cold here
The only other oil I would use is amsoil 4 stroke
But it's not easy to find
Usually has to be ordered
doug janes Where or what was the source of the plastic? Water pump impeller maybe? Can that be flushed out with Diesel fuel?
Chain guides usually
Especially if it's black
Need to be replaced
It was plastic that came off my chain guides. One of my tensioner plungers wore right through my guide.
I have not found a spec for those bolts
I have an outlander 1000 needing a crankshaft replaced. Would you be interesting in doing it?
I don't do many motors for people I don't know but sometimes I do
Where are you located
What about piston ring positions?
What compression ratio are you running there? Any over heating issues? Do you run premium gas or Aviation fuel or octane boost?
12:1overheat issues come from radiator clogged usually on a rotax
Thanks for the information you took may apart know your shit!!
it's a paint or dirt? just wondering ..
I am no where near NH, Its a do able job, just take your time
and yes, i can rebuild one in less than a half hour
I have removed one, rebuilt it, reinstalled it and had it running in an hour and a half, but I do not recommend going that fast, that is how mistakes happen, this was a race motor that had a nasty deadline on it
in all honesty having never done one, engine removal should take approximately an hour, break down should take an hour, assembly should take two hours and install one hour
What do you think about running it without the sensor till my new one comes in? I unplugged it and bike seems to run. If I plug it in it blows the fuse
Also, I see you're not using any assembly lube?
The only parts that benefit from the lube are crank and Rod, this is a positive pressure system that rides on oil
I have used it in the past and noticed no increase in longevity
The can am book does not specify to use it
Some mechanics do
Some don't
I've also found some assembly lubes can cause issues with the paper gaskets if they come in contact with them
Do you need to remove the jugs in a 09 outty to replace the timing chain and tensioners?
head yes, jug no
Hey Shane.. Great set of Videos... I just done an 840 Swap on an 09 Outlander.. Had 916 MrRpm Cylinders on it that were removed and traded to Jeff at Ross Racing for the 840 Kit.. My issus seems simple enough but has me pulling my hair out.. After finishing the rebuild, I have no spark on either Plug.. I have ran diagnostics on everything and have arrived at the Coil packs.. There is 12v on the #2 Pin (center pin) but still no spark.. Is there any way that the Crank Pos Sensor could be bad or the Cam Pos Sen?? Or Im thinking the actual Plug wires themselves.. I have no easy access to other parts to swap out and try.. The 5a Ignition fuse is good as is all the rest.. Any suggestions would be apreaciated... Thanks in advance... Nathan Stiltner... Riverside Rebuilds..
Send me a pm with a phone number
I'll try and walk you through some diagnostics but need a little more info
Thanks
shanesoutty
Dont know how to pm on here, but you can go to my shops page on facebook or personal page on there.. Nathan Stiltner or Riverside Rebuilds or email.. nathanstiltner@yahoo.com
I need help with my 2012 800R xmr, my gear box is toasted, I need to know if you could fix it for me. Please let me know if this is possible. Im in the Houston TX area.
Call mrrpm
He has a cheap brand new replacement in stock for half or less than stock, pm me if your needing install I know a reliable person in Houston area
Can you please call me at 713.385.8057 my name is Juan Delgado.
Hey my friend. I have to rebuilt my 1000 outty is this engine same inside and outside or different motor???? Thank you in advance.
The 1000 has a few small differences, the biggest dissasembly difference is the addition of one extra case bolt, its hidden behind the oil pump gear (when splitting cases)
The other couple differences are the location of the cam chain tensioner and the way it is timed, can am sells a timing tool and you need it to time the three bolt cam gear bolted to the cams
other than that, the crank is a larger diameter and thats about all the assembly difference there is
@@shanesoutty I just did everything that u have shown in ure video and mine still won't start what am I doing wrong
Hey I have been watching this video and I put my 650 together. Thanks!!! I have an huge issue! The head with the cam sensor, the weird looking arm that sits on the cam gear grinds my cam sensor and shorts stuff out! What am I doing wrong. I rode the bike for 2 weeks after I did the engine and I finally figured out my short issue when I unplugged the cam sensor wire the bike started . So I took the valve cover off and found that the arm grinder the sensor flat. Let me know if you can help me .
can u replace chain guides without taking top end off and just remove valve cover and cam sprocket?
Yes and no
Yes but you can not change the upper chain guide which is likely worn excessively
The lower gear does require removal of flywheel on the magneto side
Imop I would pull head and swap guides
shanesoutty ya the guide that the tensioner presses against is wore on my buddy's 07 800..both are wore right into tensioner ..so to do those guides the heads need to come off?thnx in advance
Yes heads have to come off for guide replacement
shanesoutty thnx man
I really would like to have it done by someone as experienced as you and all of the shops around here are highway robbery. I'm in Clearwater Florida.
it's not hard I just got a 2009 outlander 800r with 32"silver backs on it and I got ripped off it had a bad diff,front diff,also the through shaft has to be replaced now and all bearings I am in Defuniak Springs Fl and all of my work was simple just had to watch a few videos the only thing that stumped me was getting the axles back in everything else is common since and remember how you took it apart.
Ya the axles are easy. I've replaced three and a rear diff on mine but the motor is really expensive and something I'd want to be sure was 100% correct
I generally just snug them up
Yeah but I don't frequent them like I used to
It's dead square. But I will try to move the motor manually.
Shane, Are you a member on any of the Can am forums?
awsome
The manuel its right 15 ,30 .44lbs
Bom dia estou com um problema em um renegade ele está com um vazamento no retentor do vira já fiz de tudo é não para de vazar
I'm glad this is not my motor.
Is this the same as ds650 bombardier.
no two different rotax engines the can am now a 570 650 850 and 1000s i don't think the make 800 anymore the ds650 is a one cylinder rotax engine very fast it also dual over head cam these are single cam engines it one thing i like about them their simple but my engines is clean its not all mud stained
What is the torque spec for the small head bolts? I almost broke one of mine the torque spec I found was 89 in lbs which is 7.4 ft lbs but it broke before I got there. Is that to tight? Can I just snug them since the main head bolts are torqued?
I have aquestion on the seals that go from front to the back on video time 13:34 would you know the name of them or part number my fourwheeler is a 2007 800 renegade and they are leaking. Can u help me out with this???
hallo shanes i have renegade 500cc i want change to 800 what i need change to ake this
Sorry I missed this one
new crank, new rods, new pistons and new cylinders
Mrrpm and others sell kits that are affordable
I would also consider buying a 800 ecm and key, this can keep you from needing to re tune the machine using a fuel tuner
Bom dia
Don't read this name channel is my woman channel ...lol.
Such a dirty engine.
Bom dia