The front brakes are actually more important because they are where the majority of the car's stopping power comes from. Brake fluid doesn't circulate. So old fluid will remain in the brake lines to the front. I think all 4 need to be flushed.
Ya ideally all 4 and also you would flush the ABS pump by running the service modes while changing but brake fluid is hygroscopic so if you were to take a sample from the system and measure moisture in the drivers front brake then do a flush from reservoir to rear. drive a month and test a sample even with out recirculating that moisture will have redistributed. point being if you do some flush it is still better than no flush and atleast you end up cleaning out the MC
You have to do all 4 wheels, brake fluid attracts moisture, it is not because fluid is dirty that you want to get out, it is the moisture in it. When you brake hard, high temperature with change moisture in brake fluid to millions of tiny air bubble, once cool down tiny once will accumulate and become big ones. Bubbles will normally become trapped at top of each brake calliper, ABS module and of course master cylinder, but in master cylinders situation, it will get to the top of fluid reservoir and become nothing. Definitely do all 4 wheels any time you do brake fluid ! From 7 years experience BMW specialist in Australia.
Hi Eric, I was wondering, seeing as you specialise in BMW, I recently changed the reluctor rings and ABS sensors on my 2006 e90, the ABS light was then turned out, however, my Traction control light (yellow) is still on permanently as is the yellow handbrake light, the traction control does not work, do you have any idea why this could be?
@@jamess8407 Hi James, what was the original problem make you changing ABS sensor? Alignment of the reluctor ring is crucial when replace, they could be too far in or out when pressed, check through abs sensor hole if you can only see vertical lines not horizontal. Also across 05-12 production of E90s, there are 2 generation ABS systems using different sensor and rings, also 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder models have different abs system, makes them 4 different types in total. Hope this can help you. Eric
@@ericliu1212 Hi Eric, thanks for your reply. So, the bad news was that the sensors and rings were fine after replacing, however the brake pressure sensor had also gone, turns out in the E90 the sensors are molded in with the module (whole new module at nearly £1000) no thank you, so I purchased a second hand one, however, they are coded to the original car they come off and I sure wasn't paying BMW to coded it to my car, so I've taken the computer side of the module off and put my old one on (sensor is fine now as code is gone) however I will not know if the problem is resolved until I can get the codes cleared. Its been a nightmare, the whole issue. I see so many people with these problems and still haven't managed to correct it, bloody cars!
@@jamess8407 Hi James, not sure in UK but here in Australia we have company that can repair ABS modules, these cars are getting old and start getting unreliable, personally I still own a 05 E90 330i as my daily drive, electronics and oil consumption are 2 of the main problems I see on mine.
@@ericliu1212 I agree, with age unfortunately things start to fail 😫 it's a real nightmare huh?! Like you, I own a 2006 and when you think our cars are a good 16 years old, that's a long long time for a vehicle's computer, electronics and mechanics to be working for! It's just a shame when we have both spent a fair amount of money to keep it working, you know? I dread to let it go though, cars are so expensive these days and I always think people sell their cars when something isn't quite right, so I would hate to let it go only to purchase something that needs even more work!
If anything, the fronts are more important to do as dirty fluid is usually fluid with high water content and that's bad news in performance or sustained braking situations (fluid will boil at a lower temperature) Also, the laptop procedure is only needed if bleeding the ABS module / valves as well. Just do a basic 2 man bleed or power bleeder for a normal flush / bleed.
Very good video but the motive bleeder method is just as good. Having the laptop out and pressing the brake pedal is more work than just pumping new fluid into the line with the pump
from what Ive read, the method in the video actuates the abs module and flushes out the entire system. The movie bleeder just does the lines and cylinder but not the module
I know this is old but the whole reason of flushing the brake fluid is to replace old fluid with new because brake fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it wants to absorb water and moisture, which kills brake fluid and can make your brake performance mushy because air and water can compress vs brake/hydrolic fluid does not compress. All of the brake lines are attached to the abs system so if you take new fluid and flush one line and fill the abs with new fluid that means the other 3 lines are still filled with old fluid, and as soon as you press your brakes, you start mixing the old brake fluid with the new and now the new brake fluid has already started to be broke down with the first press of the pedal. This looked like a mechanics shop doing a half a job so your brakes wear unevenly and the sooner you will be back. This is ridiculous, because of you have a clutch like me, this isn't even a half-assed job, its a fail.
Hi, quick question. If I am replacing the ABS pump I can essentially do the following:# 1) Swap the old module onto the new pump 2) fit the new pump 3) follow the exact process outlined in this video I did watch the other longer video with the ABS pump - there's no step between fitting the pump and then doing this bleeding procedure is there? and once it's done, there's no other coding or processes to do through INPA assuming the old module was fitted onto the pump? Thanks from the UK!
I tried inpa 4 and 6, mine wasn't like that at all. The only option that worked was bleeding for rear left caliper (furthest away for RHD,) and it would actuate abs for 5 seconds and stop. Not a long procedure like yours, it still bled fluid through though. I then had to repeat the same (rear left caliper) for the rest too as the other corners did completely different things. Then, I had to recalibrate abs as I had fault codes for dsc over voltage. No idea what the issue is, the pedal is worse than before too.
@Ponga Pandit Ehh not true, if you have fluid in your reservoir and it's above the cylinder arguably you can make it to a local store for some fluid. I doubt you will use much brake pad material by the time you reach the store.
Can someone tell me how the fuck you were able to take of the filter in the tank? Man was such a PITA to take it off that I didn't bother but I am curious.
I didn't either, it's a pain. Regardless it's best to leave it in so you don't pull to much fluid out and risk introducing air into the master cylinder. If you leave it in you can only empty the tank so far.
thanks for the video this was super helpful! glad you showed the INPA bit I didn't realize these cars had this. wasn't mentioned in any of the DIY/forum posts I looked through. I feel bad that everyone's giving you so much shit for the 2 wheel thing.. as a person looking up how-to videos because I have no idea what I'm doing, I'm not going to speculate but either way it's a minor thing the other 99.9% of the video was on point
The front brakes are actually more important because they are where the majority of the car's stopping power comes from. Brake fluid doesn't circulate. So old fluid will remain in the brake lines to the front. I think all 4 need to be flushed.
Ya ideally all 4 and also you would flush the ABS pump by running the service modes while changing but brake fluid is hygroscopic so if you were to take a sample from the system and measure moisture in the drivers front brake then do a flush from reservoir to rear. drive a month and test a sample even with out recirculating that moisture will have redistributed. point being if you do some flush it is still better than no flush and atleast you end up cleaning out the MC
Since when do you only flush the rear wheel(s). Absolutely do all 4 wheels. Ending with the drivers side front last.
especially since front wheels do most of the braking
@@n55tourist32 And there is still old fluid in the lines.
This is so timely for me. Just for general information, not all DOT4 hydraulic fluids are the same. It pays to read labels.
I taught you need DOT5.1 for e90, but i could be wrong
I use ATE SL.6 DOT 4 low viscosity.
This video helped reveal to me that my brake fluid REALLY needs to be changed! Wow I just checked it, thank you so much for this
You have to do all 4 wheels, brake fluid attracts moisture, it is not because fluid is dirty that you want to get out, it is the moisture in it. When you brake hard, high temperature with change moisture in brake fluid to millions of tiny air bubble, once cool down tiny once will accumulate and become big ones. Bubbles will normally become trapped at top of each brake calliper, ABS module and of course master cylinder, but in master cylinders situation, it will get to the top of fluid reservoir and become nothing. Definitely do all 4 wheels any time you do brake fluid ! From 7 years experience BMW specialist in Australia.
Hi Eric, I was wondering, seeing as you specialise in BMW, I recently changed the reluctor rings and ABS sensors on my 2006 e90, the ABS light was then turned out, however, my Traction control light (yellow) is still on permanently as is the yellow handbrake light, the traction control does not work, do you have any idea why this could be?
@@jamess8407 Hi James, what was the original problem make you changing ABS sensor? Alignment of the reluctor ring is crucial when replace, they could be too far in or out when pressed, check through abs sensor hole if you can only see vertical lines not horizontal. Also across 05-12 production of E90s, there are 2 generation ABS systems using different sensor and rings, also 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder models have different abs system, makes them 4 different types in total. Hope this can help you. Eric
@@ericliu1212 Hi Eric, thanks for your reply. So, the bad news was that the sensors and rings were fine after replacing, however the brake pressure sensor had also gone, turns out in the E90 the sensors are molded in with the module (whole new module at nearly £1000) no thank you, so I purchased a second hand one, however, they are coded to the original car they come off and I sure wasn't paying BMW to coded it to my car, so I've taken the computer side of the module off and put my old one on (sensor is fine now as code is gone) however I will not know if the problem is resolved until I can get the codes cleared. Its been a nightmare, the whole issue. I see so many people with these problems and still haven't managed to correct it, bloody cars!
@@jamess8407 Hi James, not sure in UK but here in Australia we have company that can repair ABS modules, these cars are getting old and start getting unreliable, personally I still own a 05 E90 330i as my daily drive, electronics and oil consumption are 2 of the main problems I see on mine.
@@ericliu1212 I agree, with age unfortunately things start to fail 😫 it's a real nightmare huh?! Like you, I own a 2006 and when you think our cars are a good 16 years old, that's a long long time for a vehicle's computer, electronics and mechanics to be working for! It's just a shame when we have both spent a fair amount of money to keep it working, you know? I dread to let it go though, cars are so expensive these days and I always think people sell their cars when something isn't quite right, so I would hate to let it go only to purchase something that needs even more work!
For the e90 chassis, mine is a 11 mm bleeder in the front and 9 mm blake bleeder at the rear.
Dude, flush the front brakes. The brake fluid in the front is as bad as the rears. Full of water. Redo the flush and include the fronts.
If anything, the fronts are more important to do as dirty fluid is usually fluid with high water content and that's bad news in performance or sustained braking situations (fluid will boil at a lower temperature)
Also, the laptop procedure is only needed if bleeding the ABS module / valves as well. Just do a basic 2 man bleed or power bleeder for a normal flush / bleed.
That wrap is crisp
I was needing to do this soon too! Perfect timing lol
Why wouldn’t you do the front breaks too? Now you have new fluid in the back and the old dirty fluid in the front.
Very good video but the motive bleeder method is just as good.
Having the laptop out and pressing the brake pedal is more work than just pumping new fluid into the line with the pump
Andy Rivers Yup, I use the Motive one with all my cars
from what Ive read, the method in the video actuates the abs module and flushes out the entire system. The movie bleeder just does the lines and cylinder but not the module
I know this is old but the whole reason of flushing the brake fluid is to replace old fluid with new because brake fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it wants to absorb water and moisture, which kills brake fluid and can make your brake performance mushy because air and water can compress vs brake/hydrolic fluid does not compress.
All of the brake lines are attached to the abs system so if you take new fluid and flush one line and fill the abs with new fluid that means the other 3 lines are still filled with old fluid, and as soon as you press your brakes, you start mixing the old brake fluid with the new and now the new brake fluid has already started to be broke down with the first press of the pedal.
This looked like a mechanics shop doing a half a job so your brakes wear unevenly and the sooner you will be back. This is ridiculous, because of you have a clutch like me, this isn't even a half-assed job, its a fail.
Good one ! I have to do it on my e92, i just have to buy a laptop and install bmw tools (which i taught i had, but apparently i haven't)
Hi, quick question.
If I am replacing the ABS pump I can essentially do the following:#
1) Swap the old module onto the new pump
2) fit the new pump
3) follow the exact process outlined in this video
I did watch the other longer video with the ABS pump - there's no step between fitting the pump and then doing this bleeding procedure is there? and once it's done, there's no other coding or processes to do through INPA assuming the old module was fitted onto the pump?
Thanks from the UK!
what battery charger do you use to keep the car at 14v
I need to flush my brakes, this came at the right time
Nice video man! So if I'd like to do the rear pads and hoses, I can dearate both left and right side via inpa only?
just want to ask do you need to turn the start switch on before you bleed the break fluid even if you are using IMPA? thanks
I tried inpa 4 and 6, mine wasn't like that at all. The only option that worked was bleeding for rear left caliper (furthest away for RHD,) and it would actuate abs for 5 seconds and stop. Not a long procedure like yours, it still bled fluid through though.
I then had to repeat the same (rear left caliper) for the rest too as the other corners did completely different things.
Then, I had to recalibrate abs as I had fault codes for dsc over voltage.
No idea what the issue is, the pedal is worse than before too.
Can you link the electronic cable that connect from your bmw to your laptop?
This also calibrates the break correctly with the rotors and break pad thickness..
Hi can u just pump as much as the old fluid out under the bonnet and refill without doing all the rest with the wheel etc
This is pretty cool. Do you start with the wheel furthest from the ABS or furthest from the master cylinder?
Unrelated to the video, i see you have the BMS cowl filters. Have you had any issues driving this car in rain or snow with the cowl filters?
I have the same ones, no issues at all in rain. Haven’t driven it in snow but I’d assume it’s fine
Yeah I've had them for years, no issues in the rain and I wouldn't expect any in the snow.
@@VehicularDIY Thank you for the quick reply. I just ordered a pair.
Nice have you got a coolant change video?
Thanks, I don't but if you check my radiator replacement video it'll have all the info you would need.
Hi! im looking for the k+dcan for my e90 2008, and i found that there are different FTDI chips, what do you use?
You want the one with the switchable function between pre 2004 cars and after green circuit board internally.
Thanks for the video! A quick question, how much new brake fluid do I need if I do all 4 wheels with the DSC stuff? Would 1L be enough?
Np! If you are doing all 4 wheels I'd expect 1L just be just enough. I'd grab a second bottle and plan on returning it if you don't end up using it.
I used under 2L and that was a very thorough flush
@Ponga Pandit Ehh not true, if you have fluid in your reservoir and it's above the cylinder arguably you can make it to a local store for some fluid. I doubt you will use much brake pad material by the time you reach the store.
Do you still have a link to your lip on your m3 rep bumper?
If you search for an AK style lip in carbon fiber for an E90 you'll be able to find various options.
is that black marble looking dash stock?
Is ista+ or protools capable of this procedure?
Anybody know if I can use a Bluetooth obd versus the cable version?
Is the battery conditioner necessary?
It's highly recommend.
Is there “ inpa” for iOS ?
And all the brake fluid between the ABS and the front wheels is old and dirty and with moisture in it.
The very best brake fluid available is Motul RBF600.
actuate brake pedal?
Press the brake pedal.
Perfect timing
your car looks hot af
Brake pedal would probably feel insane if you did all 4 lol and add a more performance oriented pad car would probably stop on a dime
Can someone tell me how the fuck you were able to take of the filter in the tank? Man was such a PITA to take it off that I didn't bother but I am curious.
I didn't either, it's a pain. Regardless it's best to leave it in so you don't pull to much fluid out and risk introducing air into the master cylinder. If you leave it in you can only empty the tank so far.
@@VehicularDIY Oh ok thanks, thought for sure yours was out seeing how low you were able to get it!
i want to repaint my calipers
what cant of battery charger are you using pls ? brand name and model pls i am searching for a good batery charger thanks
It's an EverStart 25A. Got it at Walmart. I'm not sure it's anything special but I don't have any complaints.
thanks for the video this was super helpful! glad you showed the INPA bit I didn't realize these cars had this. wasn't mentioned in any of the DIY/forum posts I looked through.
I feel bad that everyone's giving you so much shit for the 2 wheel thing.. as a person looking up how-to videos because I have no idea what I'm doing, I'm not going to speculate but either way it's a minor thing the other 99.9% of the video was on point
Don't do the front which does 70 percent of the braking doesn't make sense.
does this software come in IOS ?
Amazon shipping is way delayed these days. I picked up the same bleeder kit off the shelf at a local Walmart. Search for Walmart product #: 565421896
Without inpa the brake never go work 100%, you have to have inpa or other system, manual flush dont work very good.
Fábio Leça My manual flush done two years ago is doing fine.
@@robertmontgomery7158 don't you have to use inpa for a full flush?
Yeah for beginners that's probably true.