I live on the west coast of Scotland and applied CI and EXO V3 to my car on my drive in May last year, but kept the car under a large professional grade gazebo with side panels during the applying, buffing and curing phases. You really do need to plan the task out well in advance because once you start the coating you are committed. I also had good quality machine polishers and products for the prep. An outside application is not for the faint hearted, if in doubt then don't. So far i have had 8 months of very easy washing and virtually no drying as the hose water practically dries each panel in turn. Another great Vid Jon - thanks. They really are getting really professional now.
I'm retired and do this as a hobby. I've done 6 cars with Crystal Serum Light and EXO. It takes me 4 or 5 days 6 to 8 hours a day to do a car. It is a lot of work but I enjoy the end results. Cleaning the car is easier but dark colors will show swirls if you're not careful in the wash process. I also top occasionally with C2v3 for even more durability and I like the fresh coated look it gives. This is the second winter for a few of the cars and the coating is holding strong after being pelted with salt and sometimes going a few weeks not being able to wash them. No other product I used in the past would have lasted 2 months in a winter let alone 2 years and probably longer. If you don'y want to shell out for vinyl this is a good alternative and you can DIY. Enjoyed your video. You did a great job covering it.
CSL and EXO V3 are a great combination. I have a test vehicle going on two years as well running through harse Canadian winters and back gravel roads. The C2V3 will be applied going forward. I did not apply it until now because I wanted to do a test on just the coating and topper combination system. Great easy to use lasting products.
Wow now i am a detailer but this man is a real proffessional quality is the key and you diffenitly have the passion too deliver that much respect brother thank you i look forward too being as good as u one day
Your attention to detail in this video is outstanding. I’m picking up a new car shortly and doubt the dealership will go to such levels that you do. Are you a mobile detailer ?
Excellent video, thank you. Im planning to put a ceramic coating on my Merc A class AMG this spring, so your video and also WhiteDetails are really helping me with the training !. Taking me a while also to get all the correct products in and ready. Its certainly not cheap for Mr average joe. I plan to take a few days off work and make a very long weekend, as you say you need to take your time and not rush. Im really looking forward to see the end result on my car. Thanks again for all the great tips.
One thought I have is that most of these coatings have a easy on and off maintenance product e.g Gyeon Cure. So apart from the extra toughness and longevity you get from the full blown ceramic coating, the looks, slickness and water behaviour will mainly down to the maintenance product. Might as well use a less fussy product like Can Coat and top up monthly with cure. If you fancy a change a few months later (as we often do!) it’s no big deal to remove something like Can Coat.
My lesson before coating i should have really inspect the surface, after coating i just realize slight haze and now sealed under the ceramic. Hey i do it around the same time with you but with cheap coating you review, lets see the difference in durability of your car and mine. 13 jan 2018
Totally different format to your usual videos Jon. Absolutely fantastic video you can see a big difference from last year and I think this is the way forward for this channel. Still love and can’t beat JML Production video. Very informative and dare I say it more professional video. Any wait for the next one. One question Jon Once you had done all the key prep on the car and it was ready for the coating did you use the same coating on all the car or did you try different coating on bonnet/hood and each side it was it just the Gtechniq C1 for the whole car? Would be loads of work for you to get the wife’s car and do the same procedure and probably Regs car too. Not been keeping to well so I’ll be sure to PayPal you this week when I get the chance to go out. Thanks again for the videos
hey billy, this video took me (Im not the quickest though) about 15 hours to edit togther. was so much work done over many days. and then theres the work to film it and stuff. and I prepared like the dialogue for the actual application and prep bit. doing it this way means you really get the time down. normally this video would have been llike 3 hours long if I had done it with my normal set up camera and roll approach. gotta try and find a happy medium though or just try and get more effecient at making the videos. but really I should have been doing them closer to this way from day 1 i think. slow learner :). Ive done the whole car in c1. And Ive topped it with 2 coats of exo which I will put another video togther for. I might then just do the rest of the ceramic series on the test bonnet and test panels. Its just too much work to prep 3 cars and try and compare them on 3 cars i think. reg's car isnt worth putting a ceramic on due to the paintwork being nakered. not sure if I will put a coating on the golf. its just like a cheap run around thats got dings and scraps on it anyway (scrubs up well enough though). rest up and recover well my friend. let me know how your doing. rgs, Jon
Great video! I'm considering coating my new corvette. Do I have to wait for the factory paint job to cue any amount of time before applying a ceramic coating? I've heard of people covering their new cars with an indoor cover only to discover hazing in the paint later.
Amazing video and like always love watching them thanks for all your time for making them and helping people out with understanding a bit more about the products ect ☺
Another great vid J. One question I've always had, and never seen addressed in any coating related video's. How do you know it's time to RE-apply. And what is the process for re-applying a coating when it gives up the ghost? Cheers.
Good question. Ceramic Booster Sprays and SiO2 shampoos, will leave Hydrophobic properties on paint for a while. If your ceramic its said to last 3 years, then start thinking about replace when getting close to the 2yr. 5 years protection will strart asking boost at 3.2-3.5 Other than that, Leave Ceramic Coat naked, and stop using Hydrophobic liquids as shampoos, etc…
In my experience you don't need that much buffing cloths, and if you're doing the whole car at once, you can safely get away with just a few of them, at most - because it takes a full day for the ceramic coating to cure so hard on the cloth, that it would have even just the slightest chance to scratch the paint. I only switch buffing clothes if I feel/see that the current cloth doesn't remove the excess product any more, just shoves it around on the surface of the paint. But I agree with throwing them away, or at least using them only for wheel or rubber cleaning afterwards. I also saw no benefit in using suede clothes over regular microfiber ones, even though the former are recommended by some manufacturers as buffing clothes. In my experience suede clothes not only did not work better, but actually worse, because they were less effective at removing the excess product from the surface. Add on top that they usually come in larger pieces (so their proper folding is more of an issue) and they also cost more.
removal terry cloths I think I got through about 6-8. but what I noticed is that as you build up more product in them, they just dont level it down as cleanly. and if the cloth flaps on another bit of panel, it has more tendency to leave a product footprint that you might miss... I mean literally you can make one last half a car if you want so I think its gonna come down to personal preference. I liked the suede microfiber squares. or let me say it like this. I didnt encounter anything wierd with laying out the product that would want to make me look for something else.
As for the suede clothes: I was talking about using them as buff cloths, not as applicators for the coating itself. The latter is fine, and even recommended, because a microfiber applicator would soak up much more of the product (instead of transferring it onto the paint), thus practically wasting it in the end. But that property of suede cloths is the very same reason why I don't like them as buffing cloths for the coating: because they seem not to take up and remove the excess product from the surface, just spread it out, which after a while will get no you nowhere, and leave with streak marks. That said, in the video you seemed to be using microfiber clothes for buffing. So, it's not like you would be doing it any different, than me and what I would recommend - and I mostly left that comment just for others to read and possibly learn from.
With the large suede cloths, I find they feel tacky after a panel. Though the suede levels the product, in theory removing less(?). I just find short nap MF's so much easier to work with and cheaper. I don't mind if I'm not getting the full term out of the product, one time I forgot to tell the dealership to not wash the car and boom all the work was undone. In the end each coating has its own system, I guess it's down to the one you feel most comfortable with and what you want to get out of it. If you love detailing, you can find having a coating stops you doing things you would normally do, like a light cut polish on a single panel, as as good essence plus is, you know scholl, megs or Koch chemie would be better. Excuse the rambling post, there's so many great products out there just not enough time to get to use them all ;)
To be honest with you, I think it’s a myth that the towels will scratch paint. I applied Cquartz not too long ago and kept all the towels I used to buff off. Just regular old 70/30 360gsm edgeless towels from the rag company. I washed them, and did the CD test. None of the rags scratch a CD, and I tested each towel in multiple areas. If they won’t scratch the back side of a CD they surely won’t scratch paint.
Using Cquartz Lite, I do have to buff quite firmly - light buffing doesn't work. Also, a normal inspection torch is completely useless to find high spots, as I discovered to my dismay when I took my car outside, under a cloudy sky. Rather, I look at the REFLECTION of a perfectly diffuse, panel light. (I am using a 10" tablet computer, set to display a white screen). I have to actually look at the image of the light itself, reflected off the paint. I learnt this trick from Car Craft Auto Detailing, here in Australia.
Have you tried the sealant by BOORA? Claimed 10 year 2 part sealant. Can’t find any videos on you tube onit. It’s a PTFE Teflon coating!!! Can you fry it if not already. Really cheap but could be a gooden for you to test!
Thanks for the detailed process guidance John. Really enjoy the journey quote!!! Looking forward to product reviews and differences in product. Cheers!!! :)
Good video as usual. Put a coating on my last car but then started to miss waxing it but I don't think coatings are for me. Any input on the water based Soft99 hydro gloss wax for ceramic coatings ?
Thank You for the very Informative video, I still have several questions...Once I'm past thinking That was a lot of work, are you really being annul, really! I would think washing a car 3 times then go to a da polisher would eliminate the previous 5 or 6 steps. Note I have never done more than wash/wax my car and I want to learn this New Coating and do it correctly but dang! Thank You.
How noticable is an uneven coat. The light buffing is to even out the coating. One might would think that would cause streaks. How fast must the buffing be done. Taking my time crosshatching a two by two section could take a good minute. Just curious; trying to understand as much as possible before trying the process. Big effort for big results. I believe I'm going to try Gyeon products. Take care.
hey david you just make sure the area of panel with the high spot is clean.. then you machine polish out the high spot. degrease and reapply the coating over the area you polished. Its pretty easy to do.. something like scholl S20 is ideal for this. with these consumer grade ones its very unlikely you will need to wet sand unless you let some drops dry that you missed... most normal tramlines from application or footprint for a microfiber cloth etc will machine off very easily
Jon, Is it okay to apply TAC Systems Moonlight after a complete degrease of the car once I've machine polished with DAS6 Pro using Scholl S20 Black. The more I learn the less I find I know right now. I want to protect my new car when it arrives, keep the newness from Day 1.
I have wait a long time for this type of videos/subject. Looking forward to next episode. I have the old version gyeon mohs but have been waiting a long time for gyeon skin instead of booster. Were did you get gyeon skin? Or maybe i should usr something else will see in your next video😎keep it up jon!
Fantastic work john, thanks for your real in depth advice in how to properly apply the ceramic, and a big thumbs up for the curing times, very helpful! I was wondering if you’ve had much experience with these so called ‘nano’ technology glass sealants that you apply to the windows, I was wondering wether or not to get some of that nanolex ultra glass sealant but of course if you have any advice I’d wait on a video from you first! A few things I’ve looked at is the nanolex, apparently gtechniq also do one called g1, and maybe a comparison with conventional wax and rainx would be very useful, I know you won’t let me down haha
Please do a review on the new autoglym products?? I am relying on you 👍👍😃😃 especially where the magma fits in to your fallout review and the snow foam on a normal psi jet wash please!
Top video John! As always. Quick question bit off piste. I want to ceramic coat my new motorhome which is a mixture of normal van cab paint, GRP sections and I believe painted aluminium side panels maybe with a clear coat on top? What would be the best prep? I haven’t got a machine polisher but willing to buy one if needed. Nothing needs correcting just want to give it a finish polish maybe and then wipe down before ceramic coating? Cheers
hey there the basic principles of this video apply but just perhaps so in with a soft pad and a finishing polish like Koch M3 and a DA polisher. Degrease and coat. polishing th-cam.com/video/MI_m2rO-OpM/w-d-xo.html
@@ForensicDetailing thanks! Looks like you just made my shopping list more expensive with a DA on the list now haha will give the Koch M3 a go. Thanks again
Like your videos. I've seen gliss but can find it on autogeek or autopia. Is it fairly new and can you apply over any ceramic coating or is it just for cquartz?
Hi after watching this video I’m feeling much more confident in apply ceramic coating. I got a brand new car a few days ago and the paint is in great condition I’m still going to decontaminate it using a clay bar before I apply the coating. Do you recommend I also polish it before coating it? Perhaps a very light polish ? There’s thankfully no swirls. Thank you for your video!
hey jonathan, yes mate very important to polish after clay barring.. so yer a light polish will most likely be fine something line menz 3500 megs 205 etc.. degrease after polish
Hi dear, Hope you are doing well! I am living in dubai and here weather is hot very very hot. I would like to know which ceramic coating for beat for hot climate?
Anyone know how long to wait after a respray before applying a ceramic coat? Had some of my motorbike panels resprayed and will be applying CQuartz ceramic coating to all the paintwork, do I need to wait?
I wish you posted this video yesterday. I applied CQUK last night and it didn’t go as smooth as I expected it to go. I couldn’t figure out when to remove and regardless of the cure/flashing time it was grabby and not easy to remove...not sure what I was doing wrong. It looks good though, hopefully it will last. And of course, thanks for the video. Another excellent one
gonna be looking at that product and dping some comparisons with it and some of the other base ceramics.. I heard its sets faster so you got to buff without pause... so it could be just a little tweak to how you apply but a little bit more tack when removing it I think is not unusual
+Sergey Parshin Grabby is good - it means that the solvents have mostly evaporated, and the coating is starting to bond to the surface, so if you're buffing it off, you won't remove it all, just level it out. Also, when you're buffing, try to go as gentle as you can first, more just spreading out the product, than trying to buff it off aggressively. And if after wiping an area gently this way it's still not free of excess product (but the coating can be still moved/shoved around, so you don't have cured hot spots), just leave it on a little bit more, which will allow even more of the product to dry and bond, and will make it even easier to buff off the rest. Two birds with one stone, you know. One thing I noticed with CQUK is, that the best time to remove it is not when it's starting to show rainbow colors, but somewhat after that, when it will show more like shades of dark gray (but still some rainbow color). Because then it's not even grabby anymore, but comes off as easily as hazed up regular wax. But don't wait until all the rainbow has gone completely, because at that point most of the hot spots are already partially cured, and will be hard to remove them. That said you should experiment for yourself and always test on a small area when it's the best to remove on a particular paint and under particular conditions (temperature/humidity) - so if you happen to leave it on too long, you won't have such a hard time buffing it off, or redoing the area.
Gábor Bérczi excellent feedback Sir. Actually, I was recently installing it on another Honda but with essense used as a primer this time around. It went on so much smoother and easier. Also, I’ve noticed that applying it to non-ferrous panel (aluminum hood on that car) for some reason is much easier. Even paint feels totally different when polished to perfection lol. Anyway, it looks like essense makes an application process a bit easier. Hopefully it won’t affect durability in a negative way.
Hi Jon,again a very informative video! I wonder...you have a glossmeter,did you use it before and after applying the coating? Prep is key so I assume the most gloss you get by polishing but I wonder the difference in measurements with the glossmeter after coating... Thank you for the nice video and I look forward to hear/see you evaluation of the coating in a few weeks/months
yo karel hey bud. this is something we will delve into on the test panels. but if you refine clearcoat to a high gloss I dont think you will add "gloss" as such. although ill film it and talk about it. really the products are not about gloss.. nothing ive seen can add gloss to a highly refined finish. lots of things can add gloss to an average finish though... but they do also create a sort of thicker glass like depth to the finish. which I think some will like. maybe others wont.
not really brad, Im not sure if its like worth a video thinking about it. like if your gonna apply outside you need very good conditions obviously, but even then theres risks around dust hitting the coating because its not really cured perhaps. its just gonna get me stick, or discredit the channel etc if I start providing a method to do it outside, its nothing clever or complex but ultimately it introduces a risk and perhaps does encourage bad practise. but you could choose to apply outside if conditions are really optimal and you have no other choice.
Good vid Jon, but they always are. That is the way to do this job, but not all will be that thorough, time money and all that! Will look forward to a vid on a year or 18months down the road and polishing off the CC, that will be an important stage.
I wanted to do it properly and carefuly... i think I would be tempted to lay out the ceramic a bit faster and further next time. but take my time with the leveling and inspection. the prep I think thats important to do really well. Im a slow bugger with all this stuff generally. when I try and do things fast I tend to mess things up. :( the ceramic will come off pretty easily in 18 months. I doubt ill have the 135 then :( but ideally just a light abrasive and then reapply.
Nice video mate. Just a question. I applied a 9h ceramic coating to my ute today. Just 1 coat. You reckon i can apply another coat after 24hrs of it healing.is it safe to apply another coat?thanks
hey there. I know nothing of ceramic pro and layering.. Id be guessing. I would ask the manufacturer. the risks are could the coating now reject the next layer if its cured too much. Or is there now contamination in the coating from using the car? would you need to wash it to clean up for the second layer (have you driven the car since 1 layer?)... You want to avoid washing the coating untill a full cure.. after a full cure risks on the layering not working might increase. Speak to ceramic pro buddy
Hey Jon great video. i know im late but how was the removal of the coating. Was it like sticky or did you have to put in a lot of effort to remove? One last question. Is there a reason you chose to use the rotary instead of your usual dual action?
C1 is nice to work with thin smooth and veyr easy to just give a gentle leveling buff. EXo (was V3, they now have V4) is a bit thicker and smore slimey but its not a sticky coating. The gtechniq stuff has a reputation for being easy to use. I think thats important. the gyeon syncro kit though it easy to apply as well. this whole layering thing though omg :) I tend to allways use the 3401 or the rotary. specially when your using heavier compounds and taking out swirls the DA is just not as capable and its harder to polish up to edges without the stall kicking in..
When you work at 2x2 section, can you note the difference of what you cleaned, and what spot arent treated yet!? With a potent light can see difference?
It's also recommended to use a polishing compound and a polish cleaner/degreaser from the same manufacturer that's also making the ceramic coating (and if they offer more than one, the that kind, that they recommend for ceramic coatings), because these products usually 1. can effectively dissolve their own compounds, 2. do not hinder the bonding of their own ceramic coating with the paint, and 3. might actually contain additives (like SiO2) that help the bonding process.
it is indeed. I think thats good advice. gonna look to cover more sort of bolt on products from various brands as well.. saying that bilt hamber cleanser fluid degreases better than anything else Ive used. some of the degreasing products from the ceramic companies are IPA based.
Hi Jon, Thanks for your amazing content, i bought the Q2 syncro kit for my Z4 but like a complete Idiot I didn’t realise it was an indoor job only. Would you know of anywhere professional who use this? I might be able to supply the product and just pay for the labour 🤷♂️
Steve speak to fresh layers in Chichester they can rent you a unit to install it in for the day so you can install yourself really.. I cant say if they will agree to install syncro though. they may not because its a lot of downtime or they may not have used it and dont want to risk it.
Hi I have been watching these videos in preparation to ceramic coat my estoril blue m235i. I had a couple quick questions. 1.)When you divide a panel into multiple parts, is there any overlap on the applications? Also I have been using the rag company for most of my towel needs. I picked up some edgeless professional 365 70/30 towels to level and buff the ceramic. 2.) Should I just be going with a cheaper towel if I plan on throwing them out? It seems like their edgless professional 365 70/30 is not too far off from the eagle edgless. Is it a waste to use them once and throw them out? Can the ceramic be fully washed out?
Forensic Detailing Channel thanks for the info. I love the amount of detail that you go into. The rag company offers an 80/20 Terry towel shown. Is something like that sufficient? here.www.theragcompany.com/all-purpose-10-x-10-microfiber-terry-towel/ The cheapest 70/30 towels that they offer is the edgeless 245 for just under $1.50 a towel. Last question, are Terry towel and microfiber towels synonymous? Or is Terry towel reffering to a shorter pile lower quality towel? Thanks again!
so around 2-3 hours to clean and decon (car had very minimal contaminants). around 6 hours to do a single stage fine polishing set. an hour to apply? I cleaned it on a weekend and garaged it and then did the polishing in the evenings over 3-4 days. It is do-able to get a car machined and coated in day. but depends on the car condition .. and how long you want to machine it for.. I think for guys doing it at home breaking it down int different sections is a good thing. you just need someewhere to store the car inside while doing this.
Forensic Detailing Channel thanks, I pick my new car up in March, hoping to get the car protected not long after. These vlogs are invaluable to use beginners. I have a dual action polisher. I know your a busy man but could you do a vlog ( if you haven’t already done so ) of the best products in your opinion from start to finish for pads, polish, decontamination etc.
Looking at doing this on my new car in the near future..I paint vehicles for a living, im familiar with polishing and super cleaning a car. But ceramic coating scares the hell out of me. If im applying on the hood panel in small sections, wouldnt the overlaps create high spots as im changing sections? Or does the product level itself relatively well in that regard when buffed off? I just hate that you cant go panel by panel >
overlappy wont create high spots that you can see.. might be a bit more product on the overlapp bits at like a microscopic level. high spots are really when you dont level the product and you have a mini trail of it that you can actually eyeball. You can go panel to panel but the more you go "off piste" the more the risks of bad results.. best to be methodical and work carefully step by step all the way untill its finish.
Awesome to hear. If overlapping doesnt create high spots then im alot less worried and will surely break it into smaller sections. Thanks for the reply and your help!
Would you be able to comment on what begins to happen as the coatings fade? say after 2 or 3 years of a well maintained coating..will it look like its peeling off? will it turn color and have to be completely buffed off?
it was a few years ago but generally you can polish to a decent level and coat in 2 days. 10-20 hours. some guys can polish and coat in a day but you have to work very very fast and things are not so good when you go fast. at least for me.
I have a new car on order, and I'm planning on sealing it with gtechniq crystal serum and exo once it arrives. I do however plan on handpolish the car prior to the coating. I get the fact that macine polish is better, but it IS a new car. How bad could it be? Right? ☺️
hey bud just gonna be honest... it could be very bad watch the ammo nyc video on removing the factory wrap from a brand new 911 gt3 RS, if porsche ship them out like that then what hope is there :( unfortunately there is only one industry that is prepared to invest the time needed to finish down a car properly... And the sad news is its not the car manufacturing industry where they paint them, its not the bodyshop industry where they refinish them, and it generally isnt the dealship resident car "guy".. (generalising here because there are of course good guys in all sectors)((and to be fair some dealships inspect and rectify factory paintwork issues well in some cases)) If your not into all this (and that isnt an insult, there is a lot to all this stuff that most people cant be expected to know), and you dont have the right light setup its unlikely you will spot the potential problems you could have with your car. If you want it done properly and risk free and its a high end car. find an establish studio based detailer in your area and pay the money to have it inspected and then they can advise the best package to suit the issues they highlight. You can get an idea of good the detailer is from their setup. If you want to do it yourself. you could get the car. give it a hand polish and degrease and put the ceramic on. And Im not saying your not going to get decent results... but lets just say you would perhaps fall into the catagory of higher risk of poor results if you do it this way. also if you have application issues your going to find it hard work stripping off sections of coating without a machine polisher. as a general rule I wouldnt recomend applying a ceramic coating unless you are familiar with machine polishing and have done a small amount of paint correction or machine polishing first..
Forensic Detailing Channel Thank you for your advice. I have an older car too, and I guess I could get a polishingmachine and practise on that first. However, I was not planning on getting into machinepolishing just yet. And I was certainly not planning on getting floodlights anytime soon 😄. I think I will return some of the products and just seal the windows and rims. As for the rest of the car, I will stick with ptfe/wax for a while longer. All the best 😉
Hi Mohammad, simple answer is no you dont have to. But answer is, generally a new car would benefit from polishing and protection. I would generally suggest if your going to polish a new car to try and really just refine the paintwork.. saying that some new cars can be in an awefull state swirl wise.. so there is no set piece answer yes or no. It really depends on how much time you want to invest in the car... but yes generally a new car will need decontamination and polishing.. I have a video I need to drop on this very subject it will come out soon and I discuss this a bit more.
John, do you believe I can apply second layer after I already hit it with re-load last night? Or perhaps I can install another layer afterwards, say in a week or so? Cheers
If youve put reload on there Im thinking the second layer you want to applying is gonna struggle to bond. reload itself has pretty impressive durability. Once that coating has gone off and the cars been out in the evironment and used I dont think its a good idea to then try and layer. I wouldnt try and do another layer now you really need to layer during the initial install. you do have these new top coats like gliss etc than can go on later on... but now reload is on there I would just leave it.
as a general detailing rule no. But if the sealant is say 5-6 months old as an example and pretty much dead. A good wipe of with a tar and glue remover (which is typically mineral spirits) could remove the reminants of it. But tar and glue removers vary in strength and format. So really the best way to strip prep is to use an abrasive. Either a finishing polish followed by degreaser, or a abrasive cleaner like bilt hamber cleaner polish.
have a watch of the homemade panel wipe video on the channel tango.. but it wont strip fresh wax. you should also use it close to 25%ipa to water mate.
well typically yes. its a long discussion. if you have gone past the old coatings lifespan then you need to go through the same process again, hopefully light polish degrease and reapply.
Thanks, well I will wait untill I have time to do it properly (coating will expire very soo ). But untill them I will add some Wetcoat to have at least some kind protection. As an alternative, fusso coat 12M is easier to apply than a ceramic BUT does not offer that sick gloss
Chris Smith I usually have 10 or so handy, we don't always go through all of them on one mid size sedan. I cycle through them every 2 panels as a safety measure. As mentioned in the video, don't rush the process and enjoy the ride!
Are you a retail distributor for Bilt Hamber? I contacted them for any resellers in the States and only one establishment carried it with quick research found they will not be carrying it anymore. )-; bummed Now I am on the hunt for a good shipping price to cover a couple 5L bottles of Auto Foam by Bilt Hamber as well as Surfex HD. Thanks Forensics good vids. Let me know if you would send some or know of a decent place to order from.
hi there I thought rubbish boys sold it in the USA. but not sure. Im not a distributor of anything sorry. Might be worth going to the bilt hamber website and just contacting Peter about getting the products in the USA, he will know who sells it. may well be there isnt a distributor.. would be great to have them over in the UK they are fantastic products and always well priced.
Yeah I have been in contact with Pete, great guy. He pointed me to the reseller here in the states but they discontinued their ordering and future fulfillment of orders of Bilt Hamber. I contacted Pete once again this morning and I am awaiting a response. I also contacted your link to "in2detailing" and asked them a cost of BH products to be shipped here. Thanks again fella I enjoy the thought process and divide/conquer idea behind your videos. Well done. J.
if the coating gets wet before it hardens off you could get water spotting issue.. you cant touch the coating while its curing.. water that falls on it and sits on it is actually full of minerals. you could plan to install on a nice dry day.. lots of people are using them outside. same with dust landing on the coating when its still tacky..
Bloody hell John, great results !! Nice work. I’ve tried the Gyeon products in the past and I’ve found them to be great. One question, this is the second video where I’ve noticed you pushing the car into the garage... any particular reason ? 😄 Or are you the just the the Chuck Norris of detailing as was once suggested..? 💪🏼👍🏼
what can I say max. I have this naturally powerfull muscular physique that allows me to do things other guys would struggle with.. I try to keep it under wraps and sometimes stuff a pillow down my shirt to give the impression of a flabby poorly maintained body..
Forensic Detailing Channel - yeah, I noticed the purple underpants as well, but just put it down to being part of the superhero uniform - much like Batman and Robins colourful stockings/leggings 🤣
I would love to carry out the from start to finish on my insignia but with the lack of work space & the use of a work shop it’s just not possible & it’s a mini cab so I would be pissing in the 🌪💨so I can just watch & enjoy other people doing it.
Love your vids! I'd like to ask you a question: after a year with the ceramic coating on, how do I get rid of it in order to apply it again? What type of compound? And pad? would scholl S20 black work? what about menzerna 3800? cutting pad? polishing pad? thanks and keep up your great job!
hey there, it depends really what you put on and how many layers. Generally with a consumer grade ceramic they come off pretty easily. but its hard to spot. I found misting water over the panel could show me where the coating is still present. After a year you might be able to use a finishing polishing to remove whats left. 3800 yes. if that doesnt work you could step up. test out the removal on the hood first and mist water over the panel to check if you have removed it all..
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Just a small correction to an otherwise great video - C1 is Crystal Lacquer not Crystal Serum, the CS is a slightly better product all round..
yer I noticed that as well in the final render... but it was just too much work to go and reshoot the segment :(
No worries, we understood what you meant!
I live on the west coast of Scotland and applied CI and EXO V3 to my car on my drive in May last year, but kept the car under a large professional grade gazebo with side panels during the applying, buffing and curing phases. You really do need to plan the task out well in advance because once you start the coating you are committed. I also had good quality machine polishers and products for the prep. An outside application is not for the faint hearted, if in doubt then don't.
So far i have had 8 months of very easy washing and virtually no drying as the hose water practically dries each panel in turn.
Another great Vid Jon - thanks. They really are getting really professional now.
I'm retired and do this as a hobby. I've done 6 cars with Crystal Serum Light and EXO. It takes me 4 or 5 days 6 to 8 hours a day to do a car. It is a lot of work but I enjoy the end results. Cleaning the car is easier but dark colors will show swirls if you're not careful in the wash process. I also top occasionally with C2v3 for even more durability and I like the fresh coated look it gives. This is the second winter for a few of the cars and the coating is holding strong after being pelted with salt and sometimes going a few weeks not being able to wash them. No other product I used in the past would have lasted 2 months in a winter let alone 2 years and probably longer. If you don'y want to shell out for vinyl this is a good alternative and you can DIY. Enjoyed your video. You did a great job covering it.
CSL and EXO V3 are a great combination. I have a test vehicle going on two years as well running through harse Canadian winters and back gravel roads. The C2V3 will be applied going forward. I did not apply it until now because I wanted to do a test on just the coating and topper combination system. Great easy to use lasting products.
Excellent video with all the information and detail any person would need to correctly apply a ceramic coating to a vehicle. Thank you for your work!
Wow now i am a detailer but this man is a real proffessional quality is the key and you diffenitly have the passion too deliver that much respect brother thank you i look forward too being as good as u one day
A lot of sage advise there, for those heading into the world of coatings. Well done John another cracking production.
Awesome video--very informative and loaded with detail. Love your quote "Take the time to enjoy the ride as much as the destination".
Your attention to detail in this video is outstanding. I’m picking up a new car shortly and doubt the dealership will go to such levels that you do.
Are you a mobile detailer ?
Very good overview. I applied Gtechniq CSL last year without EXO and instead use the Crystal spray. Works great. Impressive coating for sure.
Excellent video, thank you. Im planning to put a ceramic coating on my Merc A class AMG this spring, so your video and also WhiteDetails are really helping me with the training !. Taking me a while also to get all the correct products in and ready. Its certainly not cheap for Mr average joe. I plan to take a few days off work and make a very long weekend, as you say you need to take your time and not rush. Im really looking forward to see the end result on my car. Thanks again for all the great tips.
John, excellent video as always, to the point and very informative, thank you.
Great video Jon and your car looks great. I'm looking forward to the rest of these ceramic videos. Keep up the good work
One thought I have is that most of these coatings have a easy on and off maintenance product e.g Gyeon Cure. So apart from the extra toughness and longevity you get from the full blown ceramic coating, the looks, slickness and water behaviour will mainly down to the maintenance product. Might as well use a less fussy product like Can Coat and top up monthly with cure. If you fancy a change a few months later (as we often do!) it’s no big deal to remove something like Can Coat.
My lesson before coating i should have really inspect the surface, after coating i just realize slight haze and now sealed under the ceramic. Hey i do it around the same time with you but with cheap coating you review, lets see the difference in durability of your car and mine.
13 jan 2018
Loving the backing music you had this time... my head is nodding!
If you have not tried, I would very much advise you to try Max Protect UNC-R.. The product is amazing, my favorite coating atm!
Wow, you rock man. Great introduction and explaining. Best video I see so far. Thank you!!!
Totally different format to your usual videos Jon.
Absolutely fantastic video you can see a big difference from last year and I think this is the way forward for this channel.
Still love and can’t beat JML Production video.
Very informative and dare I say it more professional video.
Any wait for the next one.
One question Jon
Once you had done all the key prep on the car and it was ready for the coating did you use the same coating on all the car or did you try different coating on bonnet/hood and each side it was it just the Gtechniq C1 for the whole car?
Would be loads of work for you to get the wife’s car and do the same procedure and probably Regs car too.
Not been keeping to well so I’ll be sure to PayPal you this week when I get the chance to go out.
Thanks again for the videos
hey billy, this video took me (Im not the quickest though) about 15 hours to edit togther. was so much work done over many days. and then theres the work to film it and stuff. and I prepared like the dialogue for the actual application and prep bit. doing it this way means you really get the time down. normally this video would have been llike 3 hours long if I had done it with my normal set up camera and roll approach. gotta try and find a happy medium though or just try and get more effecient at making the videos. but really I should have been doing them closer to this way from day 1 i think. slow learner :).
Ive done the whole car in c1. And Ive topped it with 2 coats of exo which I will put another video togther for.
I might then just do the rest of the ceramic series on the test bonnet and test panels. Its just too much work to prep 3 cars and try and compare them on 3 cars i think. reg's car isnt worth putting a ceramic on due to the paintwork being nakered. not sure if I will put a coating on the golf. its just like a cheap run around thats got dings and scraps on it anyway (scrubs up well enough though).
rest up and recover well my friend. let me know how your doing. rgs, Jon
Great video jon.the paint on your car looks stunning.i wish I had a double garage like you.
Great video! I'm considering coating my new corvette. Do I have to wait for the factory paint job to cue any amount of time before applying a ceramic coating? I've heard of people covering their new cars with an indoor cover only to discover hazing in the paint later.
generally speaking if the clear wasnt layed down in the last 6-8 weeks your gonna be ok. consult your manufacturer though to be sure
Hi Jon, just a thought, could I use Finis wax or a sealant on my caravan to protect it instead of diamond bright?
Dave
Amazing video and like always love watching them thanks for all your time for making them and helping people out with understanding a bit more about the products ect ☺
Nice one, will be nice to see how it holds up in a couple of months
Another great vid J.
One question I've always had, and never seen addressed in any coating related video's. How do you know it's time to RE-apply. And what is the process for re-applying a coating when it gives up the ghost?
Cheers.
Good question. Ceramic Booster Sprays and SiO2 shampoos, will leave Hydrophobic properties on paint for a while.
If your ceramic its said to last 3 years, then start thinking about replace when getting close to the 2yr. 5 years protection will strart asking boost at 3.2-3.5
Other than that, Leave Ceramic Coat naked, and stop using Hydrophobic liquids as shampoos, etc…
Great video mate. Love that blue color.
Loving the content and your style. Thanks for all the effort you put into making these vids, it shows. Keep up the good work.
In my experience you don't need that much buffing cloths, and if you're doing the whole car at once, you can safely get away with just a few of them, at most - because it takes a full day for the ceramic coating to cure so hard on the cloth, that it would have even just the slightest chance to scratch the paint. I only switch buffing clothes if I feel/see that the current cloth doesn't remove the excess product any more, just shoves it around on the surface of the paint. But I agree with throwing them away, or at least using them only for wheel or rubber cleaning afterwards.
I also saw no benefit in using suede clothes over regular microfiber ones, even though the former are recommended by some manufacturers as buffing clothes. In my experience suede clothes not only did not work better, but actually worse, because they were less effective at removing the excess product from the surface. Add on top that they usually come in larger pieces (so their proper folding is more of an issue) and they also cost more.
removal terry cloths I think I got through about 6-8. but what I noticed is that as you build up more product in them, they just dont level it down as cleanly. and if the cloth flaps on another bit of panel, it has more tendency to leave a product footprint that you might miss... I mean literally you can make one last half a car if you want so I think its gonna come down to personal preference. I liked the suede microfiber squares. or let me say it like this. I didnt encounter anything wierd with laying out the product that would want to make me look for something else.
As for the suede clothes: I was talking about using them as buff cloths, not as applicators for the coating itself. The latter is fine, and even recommended, because a microfiber applicator would soak up much more of the product (instead of transferring it onto the paint), thus practically wasting it in the end.
But that property of suede cloths is the very same reason why I don't like them as buffing cloths for the coating: because they seem not to take up and remove the excess product from the surface, just spread it out, which after a while will get no you nowhere, and leave with streak marks.
That said, in the video you seemed to be using microfiber clothes for buffing. So, it's not like you would be doing it any different, than me and what I would recommend - and I mostly left that comment just for others to read and possibly learn from.
With the large suede cloths, I find they feel tacky after a panel. Though the suede levels the product, in theory removing less(?). I just find short nap MF's so much easier to work with and cheaper. I don't mind if I'm not getting the full term out of the product, one time I forgot to tell the dealership to not wash the car and boom all the work was undone. In the end each coating has its own system, I guess it's down to the one you feel most comfortable with and what you want to get out of it. If you love detailing, you can find having a coating stops you doing things you would normally do, like a light cut polish on a single panel, as as good essence plus is, you know scholl, megs or Koch chemie would be better. Excuse the rambling post, there's so many great products out there just not enough time to get to use them all ;)
To be honest with you, I think it’s a myth that the towels will scratch paint. I applied Cquartz not too long ago and kept all the towels I used to buff off. Just regular old 70/30 360gsm edgeless towels from the rag company. I washed them, and did the CD test. None of the rags scratch a CD, and I tested each towel in multiple areas. If they won’t scratch the back side of a CD they surely won’t scratch paint.
Using Cquartz Lite, I do have to buff quite firmly - light buffing doesn't work. Also, a normal inspection torch is completely useless to find high spots, as I discovered to my dismay when I took my car outside, under a cloudy sky. Rather, I look at the REFLECTION of a perfectly diffuse, panel light. (I am using a 10" tablet computer, set to display a white screen). I have to actually look at the image of the light itself, reflected off the paint. I learnt this trick from Car Craft Auto Detailing, here in Australia.
Have you tried the sealant by BOORA? Claimed 10 year 2 part sealant.
Can’t find any videos on you tube onit.
It’s a PTFE Teflon coating!!! Can you fry it if not already. Really cheap but could be a gooden for you to test!
Thanks for the detailed process guidance John. Really enjoy the journey quote!!! Looking forward to product reviews and differences in product. Cheers!!! :)
Is the compounding is must before ceramic r just the polish is enough for a new car...
Another great video, thank you. Car looks fantastic!
Good video as usual. Put a coating on my last car but then started to miss waxing it but I don't think coatings are for me. Any input on the water based Soft99 hydro gloss wax for ceramic coatings ?
Thank You for the very Informative video, I still have several questions...Once I'm past thinking That was a lot of work, are you really being annul, really! I would think washing a car 3 times then go to a da polisher would eliminate the previous 5 or 6 steps. Note I have never done more than wash/wax my car and I want to learn this New Coating and do it correctly but dang! Thank You.
How noticable is an uneven coat. The light buffing is to even out the coating. One might would think that would cause streaks. How fast must the buffing be done. Taking my time crosshatching a two by two section could take a good minute. Just curious; trying to understand as much as possible before trying the process. Big effort for big results. I believe I'm going to try Gyeon products. Take care.
Superb video. Question, if you discover bad high spots a day or two after how do you fix it?
hey david you just make sure the area of panel with the high spot is clean.. then you machine polish out the high spot. degrease and reapply the coating over the area you polished.
Its pretty easy to do.. something like scholl S20 is ideal for this.
with these consumer grade ones its very unlikely you will need to wet sand unless you let some drops dry that you missed... most normal tramlines from application or footprint for a microfiber cloth etc will machine off very easily
Really good video John, can you do a video on ceramic coatings for the wheels?
have a watch of the gtechniq C5 wheel armour video on the channel mate
Jon,
Is it okay to apply TAC Systems Moonlight after a complete degrease of the car once I've machine polished with DAS6 Pro using Scholl S20 Black. The more I learn the less I find I know right now. I want to protect my new car when it arrives, keep the newness from Day 1.
I have wait a long time for this type of videos/subject. Looking forward to next episode. I have the old version gyeon mohs but have been waiting a long time for gyeon skin instead of booster. Were did you get gyeon skin? Or maybe i should usr something else will see in your next video😎keep it up jon!
Fantastic work john, thanks for your real in depth advice in how to properly apply the ceramic, and a big thumbs up for the curing times, very helpful! I was wondering if you’ve had much experience with these so called ‘nano’ technology glass sealants that you apply to the windows, I was wondering wether or not to get some of that nanolex ultra glass sealant but of course if you have any advice I’d wait on a video from you first! A few things I’ve looked at is the nanolex, apparently gtechniq also do one called g1, and maybe a comparison with conventional wax and rainx would be very useful, I know you won’t let me down haha
Hypnotising work.
What flex machine did you use?
Please do a review on the new autoglym products?? I am relying on you 👍👍😃😃 especially where the magma fits in to your fallout review and the snow foam on a normal psi jet wash please!
👍👍👍Great Video Jon, your Car looks great.
Loved this video you went into alot of detail with it would love to see lots more videos like this on the channel thanks Jon 😁
Please tell time difference between coating applying and sweeping with cloth
Top video John! As always. Quick question bit off piste. I want to ceramic coat my new motorhome which is a mixture of normal van cab paint, GRP sections and I believe painted aluminium side panels maybe with a clear coat on top? What would be the best prep? I haven’t got a machine polisher but willing to buy one if needed. Nothing needs correcting just want to give it a finish polish maybe and then wipe down before ceramic coating? Cheers
hey there the basic principles of this video apply but just perhaps so in with a soft pad and a finishing polish like Koch M3 and a DA polisher. Degrease and coat.
polishing th-cam.com/video/MI_m2rO-OpM/w-d-xo.html
@@ForensicDetailing thanks! Looks like you just made my shopping list more expensive with a DA on the list now haha will give the Koch M3 a go. Thanks again
Like your videos. I've seen gliss but can find it on autogeek or autopia. Is it fairly new and can you apply over any ceramic coating or is it just for cquartz?
Hi after watching this video I’m feeling much more confident in apply ceramic coating. I got a brand new car a few days ago and the paint is in great condition I’m still going to decontaminate it using a clay bar before I apply the coating. Do you recommend I also polish it before coating it? Perhaps a very light polish ? There’s thankfully no swirls. Thank you for your video!
hey jonathan, yes mate very important to polish after clay barring.. so yer a light polish will most likely be fine something line menz 3500 megs 205 etc.. degrease after polish
Forensic Detailing Channel awesome will do thank you so much !
Hi dear,
Hope you are doing well! I am living in dubai and here weather is hot very very hot. I would like to know which ceramic coating for beat for hot climate?
Phew, the normal theme is back!
Anyone know how long to wait after a respray before applying a ceramic coat? Had some of my motorbike panels resprayed and will be applying CQuartz ceramic coating to all the paintwork, do I need to wait?
Excellent video . Very interesting and informative.
I wish you posted this video yesterday. I applied CQUK last night and it didn’t go as smooth as I expected it to go. I couldn’t figure out when to remove and regardless of the cure/flashing time it was grabby and not easy to remove...not sure what I was doing wrong. It looks good though, hopefully it will last. And of course, thanks for the video. Another excellent one
gonna be looking at that product and dping some comparisons with it and some of the other base ceramics.. I heard its sets faster so you got to buff without pause... so it could be just a little tweak to how you apply but a little bit more tack when removing it I think is not unusual
+Sergey Parshin Grabby is good - it means that the solvents have mostly evaporated, and the coating is starting to bond to the surface, so if you're buffing it off, you won't remove it all, just level it out. Also, when you're buffing, try to go as gentle as you can first, more just spreading out the product, than trying to buff it off aggressively. And if after wiping an area gently this way it's still not free of excess product (but the coating can be still moved/shoved around, so you don't have cured hot spots), just leave it on a little bit more, which will allow even more of the product to dry and bond, and will make it even easier to buff off the rest. Two birds with one stone, you know.
One thing I noticed with CQUK is, that the best time to remove it is not when it's starting to show rainbow colors, but somewhat after that, when it will show more like shades of dark gray (but still some rainbow color). Because then it's not even grabby anymore, but comes off as easily as hazed up regular wax. But don't wait until all the rainbow has gone completely, because at that point most of the hot spots are already partially cured, and will be hard to remove them.
That said you should experiment for yourself and always test on a small area when it's the best to remove on a particular paint and under particular conditions (temperature/humidity) - so if you happen to leave it on too long, you won't have such a hard time buffing it off, or redoing the area.
I didn’t like he application of Car Pro UK. CSL from GTechniq much easier in my opinion.
nor me ;(
Gábor Bérczi excellent feedback Sir. Actually, I was recently installing it on another Honda but with essense used as a primer this time around. It went on so much smoother and easier. Also, I’ve noticed that applying it to non-ferrous panel (aluminum hood on that car) for some reason is much easier. Even paint feels totally different when polished to perfection lol. Anyway, it looks like essense makes an application process a bit easier. Hopefully it won’t affect durability in a negative way.
Good video. Very nice garage well organised
Should you apply ceramic coating before or after waxing, Can it be applied along with wax?
Great video... think Ill opt for a professional to do my coating 😄
Hi Jon,again a very informative video! I wonder...you have a glossmeter,did you use it before and after applying the coating? Prep is key so I assume the most gloss you get by polishing but I wonder the difference in measurements with the glossmeter after coating...
Thank you for the nice video and I look forward to hear/see you evaluation of the coating in a few weeks/months
yo karel hey bud. this is something we will delve into on the test panels. but if you refine clearcoat to a high gloss I dont think you will add "gloss" as such. although ill film it and talk about it. really the products are not about gloss.. nothing ive seen can add gloss to a highly refined finish. lots of things can add gloss to an average finish though... but they do also create a sort of thicker glass like depth to the finish. which I think some will like. maybe others wont.
Fantastic job, love your channel!!
Did you do the video about if you can apply them outside?
not really brad, Im not sure if its like worth a video thinking about it. like if your gonna apply outside you need very good conditions obviously, but even then theres risks around dust hitting the coating because its not really cured perhaps. its just gonna get me stick, or discredit the channel etc if I start providing a method to do it outside, its nothing clever or complex but ultimately it introduces a risk and perhaps does encourage bad practise. but you could choose to apply outside if conditions are really optimal and you have no other choice.
Hey John, great vid as usual. Do you have a link please for the lightning set up you have please. Thanks Ryan I
I use 400 w dual workshop halogens, and the homemade sun gun mainly for inspection ryan. I did a video on the channel about how to make the gun.
Good vid Jon, but they always are.
That is the way to do this job, but not all will be that thorough, time money and all that!
Will look forward to a vid on a year or 18months down the road and polishing off the CC, that will be an important stage.
I wanted to do it properly and carefuly... i think I would be tempted to lay out the ceramic a bit faster and further next time. but take my time with the leveling and inspection. the prep I think thats important to do really well. Im a slow bugger with all this stuff generally. when I try and do things fast I tend to mess things up. :(
the ceramic will come off pretty easily in 18 months. I doubt ill have the 135 then :( but ideally just a light abrasive and then reapply.
Nice video mate. Just a question. I applied a 9h ceramic coating to my ute today. Just 1 coat. You reckon i can apply another coat after 24hrs of it healing.is it safe to apply another coat?thanks
hey there. I know nothing of ceramic pro and layering.. Id be guessing. I would ask the manufacturer. the risks are could the coating now reject the next layer if its cured too much. Or is there now contamination in the coating from using the car? would you need to wash it to clean up for the second layer (have you driven the car since 1 layer?)... You want to avoid washing the coating untill a full cure.. after a full cure risks on the layering not working might increase.
Speak to ceramic pro buddy
where can i buy them wee cloths that go around the ceramic block?
there u go mate
carpro.uk.com/collections/applicators-suede-cloths
Hey Jon great video. i know im late but how was the removal of the coating. Was it like sticky or did you have to put in a lot of effort to remove? One last question. Is there a reason you chose to use the rotary instead of your usual dual action?
C1 is nice to work with thin smooth and veyr easy to just give a gentle leveling buff. EXo (was V3, they now have V4) is a bit thicker and smore slimey but its not a sticky coating. The gtechniq stuff has a reputation for being easy to use. I think thats important. the gyeon syncro kit though it easy to apply as well. this whole layering thing though omg :) I tend to allways use the 3401 or the rotary. specially when your using heavier compounds and taking out swirls the DA is just not as capable and its harder to polish up to edges without the stall kicking in..
When you work at 2x2 section, can you note the difference of what you cleaned, and what spot arent treated yet!? With a potent light can see difference?
Before buff yes m8
Gotta do with extra caution then. To prevent leave untreated spots.
Thanks 👍🏻
It's also recommended to use a polishing compound and a polish cleaner/degreaser from the same manufacturer that's also making the ceramic coating (and if they offer more than one, the that kind, that they recommend for ceramic coatings), because these products usually 1. can effectively dissolve their own compounds, 2. do not hinder the bonding of their own ceramic coating with the paint, and 3. might actually contain additives (like SiO2) that help the bonding process.
it is indeed. I think thats good advice. gonna look to cover more sort of bolt on products from various brands as well.. saying that bilt hamber cleanser fluid degreases better than anything else Ive used. some of the degreasing products from the ceramic companies are IPA based.
Hi Jon,
Thanks for your amazing content, i bought the Q2 syncro kit for my Z4 but like a complete Idiot I didn’t realise it was an indoor job only. Would you know of anywhere professional who use this? I might be able to supply the product and just pay for the labour 🤷♂️
Im based in Surrey but don’t mind a decent drive to fine the service 🙏
Steve speak to fresh layers in Chichester they can rent you a unit to install it in for the day so you can install yourself really.. I cant say if they will agree to install syncro though. they may not because its a lot of downtime or they may not have used it and dont want to risk it.
@@ForensicDetailing thanks Jon, ok will do 🙏👍
@@ForensicDetailing Booked in with the guys at Freshlayers, will be leaving the car with them for a couple of days - thanks (again) Jon 👍🙏
Hi I have been watching these videos in preparation to ceramic coat my estoril blue m235i. I had a couple quick questions. 1.)When you divide a panel into multiple parts, is there any overlap on the applications?
Also I have been using the rag company for most of my towel needs.
I picked up some edgeless professional 365 70/30 towels to level and buff the ceramic. 2.) Should I just be going with a cheaper towel if I plan on throwing them out?
It seems like their edgless professional 365 70/30 is not too far off from the eagle edgless. Is it a waste to use them once and throw them out? Can the ceramic be fully washed out?
Forensic Detailing Channel thanks for the info. I love the amount of detail that you go into.
The rag company offers an 80/20 Terry towel shown. Is something like that sufficient? here.www.theragcompany.com/all-purpose-10-x-10-microfiber-terry-towel/
The cheapest 70/30 towels that they offer is the edgeless 245 for just under $1.50 a towel.
Last question, are Terry towel and microfiber towels synonymous? Or is Terry towel reffering to a shorter pile lower quality towel?
Thanks again!
Does the ceramic coating stick if you wax your car before you apply it?
Great informative flog. How long roughly did it take you to complete the process from start to finish? Do I need to take a week off work?
so around 2-3 hours to clean and decon (car had very minimal contaminants). around 6 hours to do a single stage fine polishing set. an hour to apply? I cleaned it on a weekend and garaged it and then did the polishing in the evenings over 3-4 days. It is do-able to get a car machined and coated in day. but depends on the car condition .. and how long you want to machine it for.. I think for guys doing it at home breaking it down int different sections is a good thing. you just need someewhere to store the car inside while doing this.
Forensic Detailing Channel thanks, I pick my new car up in March, hoping to get the car protected not long after. These vlogs are invaluable to use beginners. I have a dual action polisher. I know your a busy man but could you do a vlog ( if you haven’t already done so ) of the best products in your opinion from start to finish for pads, polish, decontamination etc.
Looking at doing this on my new car in the near future..I paint vehicles for a living, im familiar with polishing and super cleaning a car. But ceramic coating scares the hell out of me. If im applying on the hood panel in small sections, wouldnt the overlaps create high spots as im changing sections? Or does the product level itself relatively well in that regard when buffed off? I just hate that you cant go panel by panel >
overlappy wont create high spots that you can see.. might be a bit more product on the overlapp bits at like a microscopic level.
high spots are really when you dont level the product and you have a mini trail of it that you can actually eyeball.
You can go panel to panel but the more you go "off piste" the more the risks of bad results.. best to be methodical and work carefully step by step all the way untill its finish.
Awesome to hear. If overlapping doesnt create high spots then im alot less worried and will surely break it into smaller sections. Thanks for the reply and your help!
Would you be able to comment on what begins to happen as the coatings fade? say after 2 or 3 years of a well maintained coating..will it look like its peeling off? will it turn color and have to be completely buffed off?
Can you estimate the labor hours that you spent on this process, from the degreasing phase to completion?
it was a few years ago but generally you can polish to a decent level and coat in 2 days. 10-20 hours. some guys can polish and coat in a day but you have to work very very fast and things are not so good when you go fast. at least for me.
That blue !!!! 😍
I have a new car on order, and I'm planning on sealing it with gtechniq crystal serum and exo once it arrives. I do however plan on handpolish the car prior to the coating. I get the fact that macine polish is better, but it IS a new car. How bad could it be? Right? ☺️
hey bud just gonna be honest...
it could be very bad watch the ammo nyc video on removing the factory wrap from a brand new 911 gt3 RS, if porsche ship them out like that then what hope is there :(
unfortunately there is only one industry that is prepared to invest the time needed to finish down a car properly... And the sad news is its not the car manufacturing industry where they paint them, its not the bodyshop industry where they refinish them, and it generally isnt the dealship resident car "guy".. (generalising here because there are of course good guys in all sectors)((and to be fair some dealships inspect and rectify factory paintwork issues well in some cases))
If your not into all this (and that isnt an insult, there is a lot to all this stuff that most people cant be expected to know), and you dont have the right light setup its unlikely you will spot the potential problems you could have with your car. If you want it done properly and risk free and its a high end car. find an establish studio based detailer in your area and pay the money to have it inspected and then they can advise the best package to suit the issues they highlight. You can get an idea of good the detailer is from their setup.
If you want to do it yourself. you could get the car. give it a hand polish and degrease and put the ceramic on. And Im not saying your not going to get decent results... but lets just say you would perhaps fall into the catagory of higher risk of poor results if you do it this way. also if you have application issues your going to find it hard work stripping off sections of coating without a machine polisher.
as a general rule I wouldnt recomend applying a ceramic coating unless you are familiar with machine polishing and have done a small amount of paint correction or machine polishing first..
Forensic Detailing Channel Thank you for your advice. I have an older car too, and I guess I could get a polishingmachine and practise on that first. However, I was not planning on getting into machinepolishing just yet. And I was certainly not planning on getting floodlights anytime soon 😄. I think I will return some of the products and just seal the windows and rims. As for the rest of the car, I will stick with ptfe/wax for a while longer. All the best 😉
Hi my friend do you have to polish brand new car I just got it today's ago?
Hi Mohammad, simple answer is no you dont have to. But answer is, generally a new car would benefit from polishing and protection. I would generally suggest if your going to polish a new car to try and really just refine the paintwork.. saying that some new cars can be in an awefull state swirl wise.. so there is no set piece answer yes or no. It really depends on how much time you want to invest in the car... but yes generally a new car will need decontamination and polishing.. I have a video I need to drop on this very subject it will come out soon and I discuss this a bit more.
John, do you believe I can apply second layer after I already hit it with re-load last night? Or perhaps I can install another layer afterwards, say in a week or so? Cheers
If youve put reload on there Im thinking the second layer you want to applying is gonna struggle to bond. reload itself has pretty impressive durability. Once that coating has gone off and the cars been out in the evironment and used I dont think its a good idea to then try and layer. I wouldnt try and do another layer now you really need to layer during the initial install.
you do have these new top coats like gliss etc than can go on later on... but now reload is on there I would just leave it.
Best vid yet 👍🏽
Does the tar remover get rid of the old sealent and wax John.
as a general detailing rule no. But if the sealant is say 5-6 months old as an example and pretty much dead. A good wipe of with a tar and glue remover (which is typically mineral spirits) could remove the reminants of it. But tar and glue removers vary in strength and format. So really the best way to strip prep is to use an abrasive. Either a finishing polish followed by degreaser, or a abrasive cleaner like bilt hamber cleaner polish.
Hi James,
Can I use rubbing alcohol 50% or 70% to wipe clean the paint surface of the car body to remove wax and polish etc?
have a watch of the homemade panel wipe video on the channel tango.. but it wont strip fresh wax. you should also use it close to 25%ipa to water mate.
Also, I have a Jaguar F-Type with a glass roof Do I apply the ceramic coating to that too? Plastic trim ?
there are specific coatings for Trim and glass from all 3 of these companies Tony.
Ah thanks!
I use it on my teeth, for all the reasons you've described., really really works.
Awesome video! Well done!
Fantastic video!
Have to don’t a video on gtechniq Ceramic GWash ? Very interested in this for my Matt frozen great bmw 😊
see the best car shampoo video mate
@@ForensicDetailing perfect I also just found out that 303 Graphene nano coating is safe for Matt paint so I am excited to try once I get the car
Do I need a polish when reapplying a ceramic? (Considering I removed it with Mega Wash Plus and some other chemicals)
yes mate
well typically yes. its a long discussion. if you have gone past the old coatings lifespan then you need to go through the same process again, hopefully light polish degrease and reapply.
Thanks, well I will wait untill I have time to do it properly (coating will expire very soo ). But untill them I will add some Wetcoat to have at least some kind protection. As an alternative, fusso coat 12M is easier to apply than a ceramic BUT does not offer that sick gloss
New video style looking good
Yes im here, John !!🤙🏼
Great vid! How many suede applicator clothes did you use? Do they get hard quickly?
i used 4 i think chris. they didnt go hard that quickly no..
Chris Smith I usually have 10 or so handy, we don't always go through all of them on one mid size sedan. I cycle through them every 2 panels as a safety measure. As mentioned in the video, don't rush the process and enjoy the ride!
Thank you for the information. Subscribed
welcome aboard roger thanks mate
Awesome video thank you
Very professional! How do I get in contact with you?
hey there thanks zanas I can be messged on forensic detailing channel on facebook..
Are you a retail distributor for Bilt Hamber? I contacted them for any resellers in the States and only one establishment carried it with quick research found they will not be carrying it anymore. )-; bummed Now I am on the hunt for a good shipping price to cover a couple 5L bottles of Auto Foam by Bilt Hamber as well as Surfex HD. Thanks Forensics good vids. Let me know if you would send some or know of a decent place to order from.
hi there I thought rubbish boys sold it in the USA. but not sure. Im not a distributor of anything sorry. Might be worth going to the bilt hamber website and just contacting Peter about getting the products in the USA, he will know who sells it. may well be there isnt a distributor.. would be great to have them over in the UK they are fantastic products and always well priced.
Yeah I have been in contact with Pete, great guy. He pointed me to the reseller here in the states but they discontinued their ordering and future fulfillment of orders of Bilt Hamber. I contacted Pete once again this morning and I am awaiting a response. I also contacted your link to "in2detailing" and asked them a cost of BH products to be shipped here. Thanks again fella I enjoy the thought process and divide/conquer idea behind your videos. Well done. J.
Great vid👍🏻
Can’t do my car inside I can do it in a shaded space outside.What are the risks if it rains etc?
if the coating gets wet before it hardens off you could get water spotting issue.. you cant touch the coating while its curing.. water that falls on it and sits on it is actually full of minerals. you could plan to install on a nice dry day.. lots of people are using them outside. same with dust landing on the coating when its still tacky..
Bloody hell John, great results !! Nice work. I’ve tried the Gyeon products in the past and I’ve found them to be great. One question, this is the second video where I’ve noticed you pushing the car into the garage... any particular reason ? 😄 Or are you the just the the Chuck Norris of detailing as was once suggested..? 💪🏼👍🏼
what can I say max. I have this naturally powerfull muscular physique that allows me to do things other guys would struggle with.. I try to keep it under wraps and sometimes stuff a pillow down my shirt to give the impression of a flabby poorly maintained body..
Forensic Detailing Channel - yeah, I noticed the purple underpants as well, but just put it down to being part of the superhero uniform - much like Batman and Robins colourful stockings/leggings 🤣
my leopard skin thong was in the wash :(
Forensic Detailing Channel
I'm learning and rolling on the floor laughing all at once. Good stuff
Great job !
Nice vid, good info....
I would love to carry out the from start to finish on my insignia but with the lack of work space & the use of a work shop it’s just not possible & it’s a mini cab so I would be pissing in the 🌪💨so I can just watch & enjoy other people doing it.
can be done anthony, but its just gonna introduce perhaps a few extra things to consider and perhaps some risks.
Forensic Detailing Channel I am having my alloy wheels refurbished at the end of the month so I might start of with ceramic coating them first
Love your vids! I'd like to ask you a question: after a year with the ceramic coating on, how do I get rid of it in order to apply it again? What type of compound? And pad? would scholl S20 black work? what about menzerna 3800? cutting pad? polishing pad? thanks and keep up your great job!
hey there, it depends really what you put on and how many layers. Generally with a consumer grade ceramic they come off pretty easily. but its hard to spot. I found misting water over the panel could show me where the coating is still present.
After a year you might be able to use a finishing polishing to remove whats left. 3800 yes. if that doesnt work you could step up. test out the removal on the hood first and mist water over the panel to check if you have removed it all..
You’ve Just made my night #crapontelly