SIMPLE DIY BOARD AND BATTEN WALL TUTORIAL
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 เม.ย. 2021
- This video is a how to install a simple board and batten wall. We give some tips to help do a great install! Feel free to ask questions or comments below.
#DIY #HowTo #Tutorial #Simple #Wainscotting #Trim #Carpentry #Interior Design #Renovation #Craftsman #Farmhouse #HGTV #FixerUpper #Magnolia - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I love this even more in person! It was such a simple way to dress up the room!
Josh, your work is amazing! Thank you for sharing your skills with the rest of us. I greatly appreciate it!
Thank you and you’re welcome!
Brovo!! I am looking for a in depth tutorial and found you!! Excellent instruction and finished product. 😊
Thank you for sharing this cool project. I for so many years wondered how this was done. My husband and I will attempt to do this in our home office.
Your welcome! Good luck with your project!
Wow, that really dresses up that room! Looks so custom. Love it!
Thanks
Great video!
Thank you!
Thanks Josh I just ordered by saw and nail gun from Dewalt. This will be my next project as I have all the time -retired. No other video that i've seen as anyone done the math to figure out total battens.
That is awesome Good luck! I hope my video helps.
@@buildingwithjosh Yes Sir Thank You!!!!
This really pops in your room! We’re currently working on adding board and batten to our Foyer…Can I ask what paint you used? Sheen and Brand? Thank you!!
Thank you! Yes, I used Behr semi gloss ultra pure white. It's a in stock color at Home Depot.
So, I'm planning on doing my down stairs very soon. My house is new construction CBS plus interior walls are metal studs. Is nailing the boards directly to the drywall enough or should I add glue as well? Love your work BTW! Liked and subcribed.
Thank you for the encouragement and following along!
Congratulations on your new home!
In your case I would recommend some constructive adhesive on the backside. Any type should be strong enough. Nailing into the drywall will just help hold til glue sets. Good luck with your project!
Seriously great instruction video! I am about to do my bedroom. Video will be my bible...lol thanks. So what lengths were your mdf boards? 8, 10, 12?
Thanks you! So glad this video can help! The vertical 1x4’s were 8’s. I was able to get a vertical and horizontal stile out of one piece.
Wow, looks great! Would youi recommend doing this on all walls or just as an accent wall?
Thank you!! To answer your question, my personal opinion is it would depend on the room and style one is going for. Meaning do you want it to be a focal wall or a style of the house. This would definitely look great on all walls in a room if you are going for the craftsman/traditional style home .
This looks great. I am getting ready to do something similar on a wall in my home. What is stumping me is the builder sprayed texture on my walls when the house was built. I attempted to skim coat a wall that I want to do this on and man what a pain in the a**. I have never done anything like that before and it was a hot mess. I have another wall in the master bedroom that I want to do but I don't dare attempt to skim coat that. I have 9' ceilings and that MDF board only comes in 4 x 8 sheets...if you can find it during this pandemic. I would have small pieces to fill in and I don't see how the layout of the board and batten will cover all of the seams. The other alternative would be just to leave the texture and hope for the best. But...can you please educate me on something? Why did you cut your top board at 33 1/2 (?) rather than a 45? Is that some trick of the trade that us typical homeowners don't know about? And how easily accessible is that pin nailer that you talked about? Is that a special type of nail gun/brads? Thanks for any input.
Thank you.
Firstly, for your master bedroom, what I can think for a solution is to get 4x8 sheets of MDF and put that on the wall first. I would say maybe instead of using 8' of the sheet, cut it down to 6' tall through the whole wall. Then put 3' pieces on top and then you can run a horrizontal board board to hide the seam. This is what I would consider doing or something similar if you don't want to skim coat the wall with drywall mud.
As far as why I mitered the top board at a 33 1/2° instead of a 45° is just a preference, like you said a"trick of the trade". Where I seam inline joints together I like using less steep of an angle.
The pin nailer I referred to is a 23 guage nailer. Less common than Brad nailers but still easily found. The have a headless nail that looks more needle like. Very handy for some situations like miters. One of my favorite tools for sure!
Here is a link to the one I use below:
www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PIN138-23-Gauge-8-Inch-Nailer/dp/B0049ZBOUM?crid=XIFDF3M5A52N&keywords=pin+nailer+23+gauge&qid=1643819431&s=hi&sprefix=pin+nailer+23+guage,tools,195&sr=1-10&linkCode=sl1&tag=buildingwithj-20&linkId=b89b8bdfb306bd6436f72f9c6b76faef&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
I love this look! It doesn't appear that you removed the existing baseboard. Does your 1 X 4 hang over it? Thank you!
Thank you! The 1x4s don’t overhang but rather are flush because my baseboards are 1x6.
I recommend if doing a wall this this and the battens will overhang the base, to remove baseboards first. Install a 1x6 or larger on the base, then reinstall your base trim after. This might make you need to make adjustments on other corespondent baseboards on other walls, but I think is the best way to get a professional look! 👌🏼
Beautiful wall! I’ve seen other videos where they put the top board up first. Is there a specific reason why you put the battens up first? Or just preference? Thanks!
Thank you!
No, there was no special reason other than I could rest the top board on top to make it easier by oneself. You can totally do the top board first!
Thanks very much for the quick response. Appreciate it. I’m going to do the walls of my power room with the help of my diy friend. Your video will really help. Thanks again!
Not hating but just wanted to ask a question. What do your joints look like now that it's been three years? I ask because I used MDF and filled my joints with wood filler and some are cracking, either because of expansion and contraction or the fact that we live right in front of a speed bump & when trucks go over it, we feel the house shake. Wood filler should probably only be used to fill holes but my FIL jumped in and suggested it.
Spencer & Insider Carpentry channel used solid wood, smaller depth battens leaving a reveal and no complex joinery, and caulked because he said he sees cracks in jobs years later.
Thanks for reading and sharing.
Thank you for the feedback, I appreciate the well thought out comment.
After some time, I would say you are correct that the filler can crack. On this wall, there are a couple of spots that have a hairline cracks. Not all the spots but some. I believe it has a lot to do with movement in the wall.
Solid wood is definitely a better material in my opinion over mdf. However wood tends to move, expand, and contract more than mdf. From my experience, I think the only way to have a seamless joint where they can be filled and not fail over the years, is probably a wood product that is glue and pocket screwed from the back or biscuit jointed.
What’s was your method used to measure your 33 1/2 angle on your 1x6 top board?
I just set a 33 1/2 degree on my miter saw. Cut the longer board at that and measured the second.
So I am trying to follow your math around 3:00where you calculated spacing for your battens. The numbers you used said 8 battens (including the ends), leaving you with 7 spaces. Your finished wall has 9 battens and 8 spaces. Doing the math, as you explained it, I come up with 19" spacing. Did you space your battens at 16" or 19"? Thanks.
Hello, yes looking back, i corrected myself on the amount of spaces from seven to eight, but I didn’t correct my batten quantity. I used nine battens total and eight spaces. The spacing came out near 16 3/8”. Sorry for the confusion. Hopefully this helps!
@@buildingwithjosh Makes perfect sense! Great tutorial, BTW. Thanks!!
I used Loctite Power Grab instead of nails. Is this not a recommended installation method?
That is a great method to install as well. As long as you can get your material to stay put till it dries, because once dried it’s not coming off! I’ve done that as well. I just tack some Brad nails to hold till glue dries.
What size nail did you use? I want to do this wall but I don't want to have to use any type of glue or adhesive
16 guage 2-2.5" nails would be a good size.
Totally going to toss something like this in the bathroom I'm doing
What size is the nails u use to nail them to the 2x4s
I use a combo of 16 and 18 gauge brad nails at 2” long.
Can you I’ve usthe items used and the height and spacing you went with? Thanks so much!
The lower spaces are 44" high and 16" wide. The upper spaces are 12" high and 16" wide. I basically used 5' battens, came down 12" and made a row of horizontals. And spaced them at 16" wide.
@@buildingwithjosh thank you so much! I’m doing a wall in my master bedroom and sure don’t want to have to redo it!
@@buildingwithjosh Ive never used a Brad nailer. I’m kind of nervous. What are the chances I shoot a nail into myself. Haha really! I’m an icu nurse but I prefer not to be in the bed in icu.
@@donnamcdan9326 well we appreciate you as a nurse! And I have in all my years of experience only done that once because it ricocheted 😁 But once you get a Brad nailer, it opens up the possibilities of building new things.
@@buildingwithjosh once is more than enough! I hope they got that nail out of you!
About how much did this project cost? Would this be considered a Newby project?
I can't remember exactly, but I think it was about $180
Sorry I didn't see the second part of your question. Yeah, it is a pretty simple project to start. Good luck!
What size is the molding on bottom and top? Thanks
1x6
@@buildingwithjosh Thank you.
@@alexhellick4838 you bet!
Hello. What type of board did you use?
I used MDF 1x4 for the battens, MDF 1x6 for top, and MDF 1x2 for top cap.
@@buildingwithjosh Hi Josh, I might have missed it, but what baseboard did you use? Kinda looks like a 1x6 MDF as well? Cheers!
@@TheFunky57 1x6 mdf is exactly what I used!
That’s not board & batten. That’s full blow wainscoting and it looks good my man. I did something similar in a big room too. If I ever meet the crew who framed & dry walled my house we are going to have words lol
Thank you. I appreciate it.
Yes, if the framing gets off, then the drywaller is going to have a hard time…lol
A lot of math! Come and do my wall 🙏🙏🙏🙏💕🌹
That 1x2 cap in my opinion should have been a little bit thicker.
That also would look good!
Whats the name of the paint please
The wall color is Sherwin Williams “Silver Strand” but 10 percent lightened.
Trim color is Behr “Ultra Pure White”