A magnificent build of a tricky model. I’ve built a half dozen WWI Roden kits and all were an “adventure “. Your detailing is just gorgeous. I subscribed. 👍
Good morning Patrick from sunny Cyprus. It seems we are not going to have an actual winter this year. I wish you good luck and all the patience in the world. As i said not one of my better jobs. I look at it and I am not pleased. Hope you have a better time with it. Avoid doing it around Christmas time so as not to ruin the holidays. :) Let me know when you finish it. Wishing you a lovely Christmas time and a 2023 full of love and above all good health.
As i said in the comments not a good job. Just the fact that i finished it is a win in itself. Point of my videos is to help others and not to take home first price. I sincerely wish you better luck with the same model. Agree about the paint job. Thanks
I know that the austro hungarian luftfahrtruppen used a version of this gotha bomber ,can I ask is the paint design Austrian? as I know from looking at some ww1 Austro hungarian aircraft they have red white red wings. Which is the color of the austrian flag. Also can you tell me where I can get this model kit thanks Richard
Good morning. The box offers 5 paint options. This one uses wwi purple. The way i psinted it though is mot what is suggested. It is more irregular purple , grey sections. Go to super-hobby and they have the instructions for the model so you can see the paint numbers they use. Roden suggests humbrol paints. I checked and instrictions sre available
Thank you and yes you are correct. Lockdown though meant had to use whatever i had. Just the fact that i finished it is a miracle in itself. :) used vallejo color.
Dear Lord, I ask for your forgiveness and for your mercy. If I swore too much the past 1-2 months, if I cursed loudly, if I anathematized any friends or members of my family who happened to be at a close proximity, it is not my fault. If I committed any crimes or unlawful acts, I repent. It is not my fault dear God. It is the work of the devil, of Lucifer, of Beelzebub, who now goes by the name RODEN. The only reason I did not just crash it to death and bury it 6 feet under, ensuring that it will never come back even as a zombie sprue, is to have a proof that I have beaten Roden. What Bauer went through in 24 is as we say in Cyprus picnic time. Effort A, my model D, and the box F. There is not one part that fits, not one pin that matches with the hole (except the tires), not a single distance between 2 holes that matches the distance of the two pins, not a piece that does not need filing. Bottom Line: If you have done something really bad in your life and you want to atone for your sin, then buy this box. No need to buy a whip and no need to start hitting your back with it. Just try to build it. It will feel the same and if it is contrition you felt for your sin, rest assured all will be forgiven. THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR TO AVOID VOLUNTARILY LOCKING YOURSELF TO AN INSTITUTION It is clear from the above paragraphs that the difficulty is not related to the number of pieces used. After all, you will only use about half of what you see. STEPS 10, 11, 12: If you are planning to be historically accurate, to recreate Gotha IV, you need to remove a piece of the fuselage and replace it with another that includes the window. I went ahead and did it. Note that you will have a hard time putting the new piece together with the rest. Be warned. In addition, more importantly is that the replacement piece is thicker than the one you removed. This means of course that the bulkheads will need serious filing. Not that they did not need filing anyways!!! I personally regretted my decision to cut it. If you don’t remove it then you are not making IV but instead I or II or III but believe me by the end all you will care is just to finish it. I did not even bother scratching off parts of the plane. Just did not care. STEP 13: Ok where to start… • WRONG!!!!!! WRONG PLACEMENT OF BULKHEADS. THANK YOU RODEN. Look where it tells you to place parts 30G and 31G, which means the gunner, is sitting boxed in, instead of at the opening. Look at STEP 14 and notice where 30G is placed. Better yet, look at my picture. Verified with other modelers. Roden your plan failed but at the end this was just a teaser! • Piece 17G: Do not glue piece 17G if you have not drilled the hole for piece 11G if you used part 24G. Step 10 tells you to do this. Even if you did drill the hole don’t glue it yet. Read STEP 14. • Bulkheads will most probably not fit and need filing. A lot of it. So test and test before gluing together the fuselage. At the end mine you will see from the picture did not sit in place and had to fix it. It needed more filing. • Rigging: Before gluing the fuselage there is rigging to do. Does Roden mention this? NO! I found out from other sides. The easiest part of the rigging was left out!!! I tell you everything was done on purpose from Roden. If you are planning of doing the rigging, the time is now. I found out when it was too late. STEP 14: Ok where to continue… • Piece 11G: This is for the steering wheel. It is supposed to go in the two holes left and right. It is also supposed to have long pins that will come out of the fuselage and hold in place pieces 29F. Now since I cut the fuselage and the new piece was thicker than the original meant that piece 11G needed…yes filing. Also, note that if you used the replacement piece you need to draw a hole at the exact point mentioned for the pin (Step 10). Guess what, piece 17G was longer than expected so it covered the hole. Or maybe the bulkhead was to thick, or maybe I did not place it exactly. On the other hand the amount I filed says that it was just too long. Still do not glue part 11G. Are the two holes properly across each other or will you need to drill another hole? Check first. • Piece 11G Again: When you finally decide to glue 11G make sure the steering is not higher than the fuselage stopping you from gluing on piece 3B (assembled at step 4) • Pieces 29F: To place them properly you are supposed to use the pins of 11G. Since 11G will never be long enough to come out just know you will simply glue them over the holes. • Remember to file the parts pointed out. I did not. Do it. It will make things easier with the decals Good luck gluing together the fuselage parts. Remember check if the bulkheads have been filed enough. STEPS 14A and 14B: Remember since you are doing IV that you need to remove a piece from the tail. You will also need to cut away parts (left and right) of piece 10D (step 14B) STEP 15: Based on which IV you are doing you will need to file parts of the nacelles too. (Steps 15b or 15c) STEP 16: Only if you are doing Gotha VI so ignore. STEP 17: Oh yeah baby, now the real fun starts. You have to construct the engines. Fine no prob. Then you have to close them in the nacelles. Not wanting to keep you in suspense… no they do not fit. At all. No matter what. At the end, and this I verified with other sites so as to make sure that I am not……, you need to scrape off the teeth inside pieces 19E and 20E. Not just a bit. Everything!! Construct the engine and place it in its position. Piece 3F will keep it in place when gluing the two halves of the nacelles. Just try to make sure that you see the hole for the propellers from the nacelles openings. STEP 18: Glue the nacelles and the wings to the main body. What did you just ask? The answer is No!! No the pins do not match nor the distance between them. Somehow, make it work and make sure the nacelles are sitting straight. STEP 19: The real fun started but we are still at the introductory part. It is the time to connect the wings (6D and 7D) to the main part (12D). Are there any holes to guide you to place them at a 3 degree angle? No! In any case, who needs the pins!!! They wouldn’t match. Simply you glue them together and if you do it (naturally), they will kind of come up. STEP 20: YEAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH THE FUN PART. THE ONE YOU ALWAYS DREAMED ABOUT! • After reading around the web what the other 2-3 -4 modelers did around the globe, I superglued the 6 mains sprues on each wing. Do they fit? Kind of. Some. This is not the hard part. The hard part is the next step. Trying to put in place the upper wing. Because the sprues are barely in place, some are long and some are short, some shake and others brake this is the make or break part. Tell your family to go for a long drive cause you either going to step on it and throw it in the bin or the family will go down as collateral damage when you will start throwing paints, brushes, vases, or whatever else you find next to you. This is insane!!! How are you supposed to place such a long upper part when the pieces supposed to hold it are barely in place? Trying to place a sprue in place, then superglue the second while everything shakes….. • After you manage to glue those parts together I moved on to place the sprues over the nacelles and the main body. Do they fit in place? Why do you keep asking? First, there is no place to actually grab on to. Then some are short and some are long. Others added sprue to the short ones and filed the long ones. I just could not do that. I was over and beyond my limits. So simply I glued them where they touched the upper wing (remember that you supposedly have to glue the lower wings in an angle so everything should match). Therefore, instead of creating triangles over the nacelles and fuselage with the sprues, I created trapezoids in the back and over the fuselage. The front sprues over the nacelles form a triangle. The modelers who melted and shaped sprue or cut sprue to add to the short pieces are better people than I am. Lucifer I mean Roden had taken my soul. • Step 20 tells you to turn it over so as to complete the underside. I did not. If you are planning to do the rigging note that you cannot keep turning it, shaking it, picking it up and putting it down. I simply went ahead and started the rigging and when I had to work under the top wing I got on my knees to look upwards. I did not turn the plane I got on my knees instead. • When I finally finished it and tried to turn it over 2 sprues popped out. This meant the rigging got all messed up. I could not place the sprues back since the ez line “pulled” the sprue. So I cut part of the rigging and re-rigged. After finally turning it over the weight meant some sprues got loos from the top wing but like I said before..I was well beyond the level of caring. • Wheels are probably the easiest part. Some rigging here too. DECAL TIME: Why should this be any easier? Roden decals are rotten. They do not move easily from the paper and at the same time break. Morota on one side broke in 3 pieces. Mo-Ro-Ta so easily patched together. The other one though 4 pieces..The word gotha… on one side in 7 pieces including one that was just the ‘. Turned it over slooooooowly, took pictures….. and put away as a reminder that I saw the devil straight in the eyes and still standing tall.
I can serve as eye witness for this building problems. I built the Gotha G.4 too. At first, I was happy to get this special Roden kit, so much details for an WW1-bomber. 2nd eye sight I never have studied a building manual with such attention, in particular the rigging sheme required a detailed anaylsis. 3rd, the surgical steps on the fuselage and the central lower wings required a quiet hand of the clockwork maker but you're right the nightmare started with teh engine nacelles. Well, complete engines of a bomber in 1/72? whow! But they didn't fit into the nacelles, either I had to remove the crankshaft and exhaust pipes, or to let the top of the nacelles open. I decided for the last option, sinsce many Gotha-4 flew with open nacelles, due to cooling problems. The worst nightmare indeed, were the wings. None of the struts between uper and lower wing fitted. No pin marks and holes between the 3 wing parts of both upper and lower wing. The worst part were the struts between upper wing and engine nacelles. Many of the short struts broke in 2 pieces during assembly. Finally, I in spite managed to fix the wings on the fuselage, but the fell back in an angle of 20° towards the line of the fuselage. And I had to enlarge the cut-away of the upper wing, so that the propellers can move. Finally Rodens kits (I have built the FWD lorry too) are highly detailed and originals but their fitttings are a nightmare. And without appropriate fitting each model kit will be crap.
Everytime i look at it, i just want to crush it with my hand and throw it away, but then i remember what i went thru and stop. When it breaks apart i will just do that and send it to the bin.
A magnificent build of a tricky model. I’ve built a half dozen WWI Roden kits and all were an “adventure “. Your detailing is just gorgeous. I subscribed. 👍
I have the Roden GVb with the blue Lozenge decals. Your video motivated me to start. I like your version very much. 👍👏
Good morning Patrick from sunny Cyprus. It seems we are not going to have an actual winter this year. I wish you good luck and all the patience in the world. As i said not one of my better jobs. I look at it and I am not pleased. Hope you have a better time with it. Avoid doing it around Christmas time so as not to ruin the holidays. :) Let me know when you finish it. Wishing you a lovely Christmas time and a 2023 full of love and above all good health.
Amazing
thank you but in all honesty not one of my better models...I just added the comments (which are a lot as a warning)
@@theodorostzitzimbourounis I love the colors but I thought that ship was green.
5 different color schemes offered
Paint job leaves a lot to be desired. Very common
As i said in the comments not a good job. Just the fact that i finished it is a win in itself. Point of my videos is to help others and not to take home first price. I sincerely wish you better luck with the same model. Agree about the paint job. Thanks
I know that the austro hungarian luftfahrtruppen used a version of this gotha bomber ,can I ask is the paint design Austrian? as I know from looking at some ww1
Austro hungarian aircraft they have red white red wings.
Which is the color of the austrian flag. Also can you tell me where I can get this model kit thanks Richard
Good morning. The box offers 5 paint options. This one uses wwi purple. The way i psinted it though is mot what is suggested. It is more irregular purple , grey sections. Go to super-hobby and they have the instructions for the model so you can see the paint numbers they use. Roden suggests humbrol paints. I checked and instrictions sre available
Forgot to say that i buy kits from different places. Amazon has roden boxes, super-hobby and modellbau-koenig.de from where i bought this one.
Hello thank you for the info,also can you tell me how many inches long the plane is and how many inches the wings are?thanks Richard
You are welcome. Hope all goes well and that you do a better job than i did. It is more or less 33cm wide and about 17 long with the gun in front.
Nice built, but the painting of Morota is not correct. Originally night-blue and dark purple.
Thank you and yes you are correct. Lockdown though meant had to use whatever i had. Just the fact that i finished it is a miracle in itself. :) used vallejo color.
Dear Lord, I ask for your forgiveness and for your mercy. If I swore too much the past 1-2 months, if I cursed loudly, if I anathematized any friends or members of my family who happened to be at a close proximity, it is not my fault. If I committed any crimes or unlawful acts, I repent. It is not my fault dear God. It is the work of the devil, of Lucifer, of Beelzebub, who now goes by the name RODEN.
The only reason I did not just crash it to death and bury it 6 feet under, ensuring that it will never come back even as a zombie sprue, is to have a proof that I have beaten Roden. What Bauer went through in 24 is as we say in Cyprus picnic time.
Effort A, my model D, and the box F.
There is not one part that fits, not one pin that matches with the hole (except the tires), not a single distance between 2 holes that matches the distance of the two pins, not a piece that does not need filing.
Bottom Line: If you have done something really bad in your life and you want to atone for your sin, then buy this box. No need to buy a whip and no need to start hitting your back with it. Just try to build it. It will feel the same and if it is contrition you felt for your sin, rest assured all will be forgiven.
THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR TO AVOID VOLUNTARILY LOCKING YOURSELF TO AN INSTITUTION
It is clear from the above paragraphs that the difficulty is not related to the number of pieces used.
After all, you will only use about half of what you see.
STEPS 10, 11, 12: If you are planning to be historically accurate, to recreate Gotha IV, you need to remove a piece of the fuselage and replace it with another that includes the window. I went ahead and did it. Note that you will have a hard time putting the new piece together with the rest. Be warned. In addition, more importantly is that the replacement piece is thicker than the one you removed. This means of course that the bulkheads will need serious filing. Not that they did not need filing anyways!!! I personally regretted my decision to cut it. If you don’t remove it then you are not making IV but instead I or II or III but believe me by the end all you will care is just to finish it. I did not even bother scratching off parts of the plane. Just did not care.
STEP 13: Ok where to start…
• WRONG!!!!!! WRONG PLACEMENT OF BULKHEADS. THANK YOU RODEN. Look where it tells you to place parts 30G and 31G, which means the gunner, is sitting boxed in, instead of at the opening. Look at STEP 14 and notice where 30G is placed. Better yet, look at my picture. Verified with other modelers. Roden your plan failed but at the end this was just a teaser!
• Piece 17G: Do not glue piece 17G if you have not drilled the hole for piece 11G if you used part 24G. Step 10 tells you to do this. Even if you did drill the hole don’t glue it yet. Read STEP 14.
• Bulkheads will most probably not fit and need filing. A lot of it. So test and test before gluing together the fuselage. At the end mine you will see from the picture did not sit in place and had to fix it. It needed more filing.
• Rigging: Before gluing the fuselage there is rigging to do. Does Roden mention this? NO! I found out from other sides. The easiest part of the rigging was left out!!! I tell you everything was done on purpose from Roden. If you are planning of doing the rigging, the time is now. I found out when it was too late.
STEP 14: Ok where to continue…
• Piece 11G: This is for the steering wheel. It is supposed to go in the two holes left and right. It is also supposed to have long pins that will come out of the fuselage and hold in place pieces 29F. Now since I cut the fuselage and the new piece was thicker than the original meant that piece 11G needed…yes filing. Also, note that if you used the replacement piece you need to draw a hole at the exact point mentioned for the pin (Step 10). Guess what, piece 17G was longer than expected so it covered the hole. Or maybe the bulkhead was to thick, or maybe I did not place it exactly. On the other hand the amount I filed says that it was just too long. Still do not glue part 11G. Are the two holes properly across each other or will you need to drill another hole? Check first.
• Piece 11G Again: When you finally decide to glue 11G make sure the steering is not higher than the fuselage stopping you from gluing on piece 3B (assembled at step 4)
• Pieces 29F: To place them properly you are supposed to use the pins of 11G. Since 11G will never be long enough to come out just know you will simply glue them over the holes.
• Remember to file the parts pointed out. I did not. Do it. It will make things easier with the decals
Good luck gluing together the fuselage parts. Remember check if the bulkheads have been filed enough.
STEPS 14A and 14B: Remember since you are doing IV that you need to remove a piece from the tail. You will also need to cut away parts (left and right) of piece 10D (step 14B)
STEP 15: Based on which IV you are doing you will need to file parts of the nacelles too. (Steps 15b or 15c)
STEP 16: Only if you are doing Gotha VI so ignore.
STEP 17: Oh yeah baby, now the real fun starts. You have to construct the engines. Fine no prob. Then you have to close them in the nacelles. Not wanting to keep you in suspense… no they do not fit. At all. No matter what. At the end, and this I verified with other sites so as to make sure that I am not……, you need to scrape off the teeth inside pieces 19E and 20E. Not just a bit. Everything!! Construct the engine and place it in its position. Piece 3F will keep it in place when gluing the two halves of the nacelles. Just try to make sure that you see the hole for the propellers from the nacelles openings.
STEP 18: Glue the nacelles and the wings to the main body. What did you just ask? The answer is No!! No the pins do not match nor the distance between them. Somehow, make it work and make sure the nacelles are sitting straight.
STEP 19: The real fun started but we are still at the introductory part. It is the time to connect the wings (6D and 7D) to the main part (12D). Are there any holes to guide you to place them at a 3 degree angle? No! In any case, who needs the pins!!! They wouldn’t match. Simply you glue them together and if you do it (naturally), they will kind of come up.
STEP 20: YEAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH THE FUN PART. THE ONE YOU ALWAYS DREAMED ABOUT!
• After reading around the web what the other 2-3 -4 modelers did around the globe, I superglued the 6 mains sprues on each wing. Do they fit? Kind of. Some. This is not the hard part. The hard part is the next step. Trying to put in place the upper wing. Because the sprues are barely in place, some are long and some are short, some shake and others brake this is the make or break part. Tell your family to go for a long drive cause you either going to step on it and throw it in the bin or the family will go down as collateral damage when you will start throwing paints, brushes, vases, or whatever else you find next to you. This is insane!!! How are you supposed to place such a long upper part when the pieces supposed to hold it are barely in place? Trying to place a sprue in place, then superglue the second while everything shakes…..
• After you manage to glue those parts together I moved on to place the sprues over the nacelles and the main body. Do they fit in place? Why do you keep asking? First, there is no place to actually grab on to. Then some are short and some are long. Others added sprue to the short ones and filed the long ones. I just could not do that. I was over and beyond my limits. So simply I glued them where they touched the upper wing (remember that you supposedly have to glue the lower wings in an angle so everything should match). Therefore, instead of creating triangles over the nacelles and fuselage with the sprues, I created trapezoids in the back and over the fuselage. The front sprues over the nacelles form a triangle. The modelers who melted and shaped sprue or cut sprue to add to the short pieces are better people than I am. Lucifer I mean Roden had taken my soul.
• Step 20 tells you to turn it over so as to complete the underside. I did not. If you are planning to do the rigging note that you cannot keep turning it, shaking it, picking it up and putting it down. I simply went ahead and started the rigging and when I had to work under the top wing I got on my knees to look upwards. I did not turn the plane I got on my knees instead.
• When I finally finished it and tried to turn it over 2 sprues popped out. This meant the rigging got all messed up. I could not place the sprues back since the ez line “pulled” the sprue. So I cut part of the rigging and re-rigged. After finally turning it over the weight meant some sprues got loos from the top wing but like I said before..I was well beyond the level of caring.
• Wheels are probably the easiest part. Some rigging here too.
DECAL TIME: Why should this be any easier? Roden decals are rotten. They do not move easily from the paper and at the same time break. Morota on one side broke in 3 pieces. Mo-Ro-Ta so easily patched together. The other one though 4 pieces..The word gotha… on one side in 7 pieces including one that was just the ‘.
Turned it over slooooooowly, took pictures….. and put away as a reminder that I saw the devil straight in the eyes and still standing tall.
I can serve as eye witness for this building problems. I built the Gotha G.4 too. At first, I was happy to get this special Roden kit, so much details for an WW1-bomber. 2nd eye sight I never have studied a building manual with such attention, in particular the rigging sheme required a detailed anaylsis. 3rd, the surgical steps on the fuselage and the central lower wings required a quiet hand of the clockwork maker but you're right the nightmare started with teh engine nacelles. Well, complete engines of a bomber in 1/72? whow! But they didn't fit into the nacelles, either I had to remove the crankshaft and exhaust pipes, or to let the top of the nacelles open. I decided for the last option, sinsce many Gotha-4 flew with open nacelles, due to cooling problems. The worst nightmare indeed, were the wings. None of the struts between uper and lower wing fitted. No pin marks and holes between the 3 wing parts of both upper and lower wing. The worst part were the struts between upper wing and engine nacelles. Many of the short struts broke in 2 pieces during assembly. Finally, I in spite managed to fix the wings on the fuselage, but the fell back in an angle of 20° towards the line of the fuselage. And I had to enlarge the cut-away of the upper wing, so that the propellers can move. Finally Rodens kits (I have built the FWD lorry too) are highly detailed and originals but their fitttings are a nightmare. And without appropriate fitting each model kit will be crap.
Everytime i look at it, i just want to crush it with my hand and throw it away, but then i remember what i went thru and stop. When it breaks apart i will just do that and send it to the bin.