Bob, just watched several of your videos and love your work. This one is no exception, I've picked up a few tips along the way and thank you for them. One question about the plugs, I see most people along the wood grain when using them, in the one I saw you glue in that was not the case. Is there any reason except for looks this might be important?
Pat M, thanks for the good words. The plug alignment is pretty much ‘random’ on the chair build. I found the dark wood grain and size didn’t make a big difference. I do try to alien grain on lighter woods because it is more noticeable. Not sure if you have seen any of my videos where I used plugs for pocket screw holes or not. If the plug is hidden (most cases) I cut the plug in the easiest way. Once you have tried a Kreg hole plug you’ll see if is easier to cut plug with grain running 90 degrees from hole.
Is it possible to make an Adirondack chair out of marine grade laminated wood? Where I live it is almost impossible to find suitable natural wood but I do have access to laminate, and it would also be MUCH cheaper. Can I use 3/4" sheets cut to size and thoroughly painted?
Not sure you can form (bend) the plywood the the shapes needed, maybe the back and seat slats, but the front legs/arm rests might be issue. Not sure exactly what you have in mind, but just might work if you use thin plywood (1/8” ???) and glue the laminates together in forms to get to 3/4”-1” final thickness…. Might be worth a try. Sounds interesting tho.
@@BobMcKenziewoodworking Thanks for the reply. I should have been more clear. The amazing chairs in this video are way beyond my skill level, I'm afraid. I was referring to a traditional Adirondack chair with straight pieces. Would laminated marine grade (or higher) plywood be strong and durable enough?
@@crimdell got it … sure you can build “traditional” Adirondack chairs from plywood … might have a great look. But you’re correct to use marine great otherwise it wood delaminate. Hope this link from instagram posting comes thru … I did a series of postings on this build - these are probably number 10 and 11 of these I’ve built over time. Plans I use are circa 1950’s. instagram.com/p/CVLXezFoBIk/
@@BobMcKenziewoodworking Thanks Bob. I thought marine grade plywood would be okay but I could find nothing about using it online. I appreciate the feedback. The chairs on IG are incredible. I love the back design. I found free plans online that I intend to use and I think I will revise it to include your shaped back. Subscribed!
@@crimdell thanks … the shaped back adds a lot. The wood in those chairs is African Mahogany in hopes it will last. Past builds were bigbox pine painted. Those last only about 10 years before the weather gets to them.
Looks great! Awesome job Bob!
Thanks SayWhaat
That looks awesome Bob and congratulations on your winning 1st and 2nd.shared on my f.book and google+ keep the vids coming!👍🍻
Joe basement woodworking thanks
What a great fucking job Bobby, keep it real my brotha, great craftsmanship
Great project and great execution Bob!
GuysWoodshop thanks
Bob, just watched several of your videos and love your work. This one is no exception, I've picked up a few tips along the way and thank you for them. One question about the plugs, I see most people along the wood grain when using them, in the one I saw you glue in that was not the case. Is there any reason except for looks this might be important?
Pat M, thanks for the good words. The plug alignment is pretty much ‘random’ on the chair build. I found the dark wood grain and size didn’t make a big difference. I do try to alien grain on lighter woods because it is more noticeable. Not sure if you have seen any of my videos where I used plugs for pocket screw holes or not. If the plug is hidden (most cases) I cut the plug in the easiest way. Once you have tried a Kreg hole plug you’ll see if is easier to cut plug with grain running 90 degrees from hole.
Amigo me hace el favor de regala las medidas
Is it possible to make an Adirondack chair out of marine grade laminated wood? Where I live it is almost impossible to find suitable natural wood but I do have access to laminate, and it would also be MUCH cheaper. Can I use 3/4" sheets cut to size and thoroughly painted?
Not sure you can form (bend) the plywood the the shapes needed, maybe the back and seat slats, but the front legs/arm rests might be issue. Not sure exactly what you have in mind, but just might work if you use thin plywood (1/8” ???) and glue the laminates together in forms to get to 3/4”-1” final thickness…. Might be worth a try. Sounds interesting tho.
@@BobMcKenziewoodworking Thanks for the reply. I should have been more clear. The amazing chairs in this video are way beyond my skill level, I'm afraid. I was referring to a traditional Adirondack chair with straight pieces. Would laminated marine grade (or higher) plywood be strong and durable enough?
@@crimdell got it … sure you can build “traditional” Adirondack chairs from plywood … might have a great look. But you’re correct to use marine great otherwise it wood delaminate. Hope this link from instagram posting comes thru … I did a series of postings on this build - these are probably number 10 and 11 of these I’ve built over time. Plans I use are circa 1950’s.
instagram.com/p/CVLXezFoBIk/
@@BobMcKenziewoodworking Thanks Bob. I thought marine grade plywood would be okay but I could find nothing about using it online. I appreciate the feedback. The chairs on IG are incredible. I love the back design. I found free plans online that I intend to use and I think I will revise it to include your shaped back. Subscribed!
@@crimdell thanks … the shaped back adds a lot. The wood in those chairs is African Mahogany in hopes it will last. Past builds were bigbox pine painted. Those last only about 10 years before the weather gets to them.
Music annoying and not necessary
Rodney Robbins yea, learned my lesson... thanks
Good God, turn that stupid music off.
Clay Richardson got it