How to Change Porsche Brakes - Brake pad and rotor tutorial on my 911
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ต.ค. 2018
- Save money changing your brakes yourself! I'll show you how to change the brake pads and brake rotors on my 2010 Porsche 911 Carrera S (997 / 997.2). This should work for nearly any Porsche or car for that matter. For detailed DIY instructions for this job or other Porsche 997 DIY content, visit www.ecarguides.com/997-mainte... . See below for more videos and links to parts/tools used:
2009 - 2012 997.2 Parts (for CARRERA S MODEL ONLY):
Brake pads:
TRW Ceramic Pads - FRONT ($63 shipped): amzn.to/2yLD13V
TRW Ceramic Pads - REAR ($86 shipped): amzn.to/2JsnNFj
Front Brake Pad Sensor ($10 shipped, 2 req'd): amzn.to/2OhXmTm
Rear Brake Pad Sensor ($9 shipped, 2 req'd): amzn.to/2Rpef0k
Rotors:
Front left brake rotor (Brembo 330mm, $167 shipped): amzn.to/2QbVqNV
Front right brake rotor (Brembo 330mm, $138 shipped): amzn.to/2CU3wXN
Rear left brake rotor (Bosch 330mm, $87 shipped): amzn.to/2JrWwTf
Rear right brake rotor (Bosch 330mm, $82 shipped): amzn.to/2JtHVXA
Tools & Accessories:
Flat Top Jack Stands: www.thecreatorstash.com/colle...
Low Profile Jack: amzn.to/2ldRUbp
Brake pad spreader ($14 shipped): amzn.to/2yIQIAw
Tekton 1/2" Drive Torque Wrench ($28 shipped): amzn.to/2JutuCl
Loctite Anti-Seize ($8 shipped): amzn.to/2JsnnP0
Permatex Brake Lube ($5 shipped): amzn.to/2QbDqDE
More videos below:
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- Porsche 911 Ownership Videos - • Porsche 911 Ownership
- Car Discussions & Advice Videos: • Car Discussions & Advice
- Product Reviews & Tutorials: • Product Reviews
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- Car Detailing & Paint Care Videos: • Car Detailing & Paint ...
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Video Equipment Used:
-Canon T5i DSLR: amzn.to/2CnlNud
-Rode VideoMicro Microphone: amzn.to/2D3QN33
-DSLR Tabletop Tripod: amzn.to/2zOWmPy
-iMovie for video editing - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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You're the only one that describe reusing the brake shims in detail. Many would have thrown them away with the worn pads and buy new ones. The shims cost just as much if not more than the brake pads themselves. You've covered all the important points for front and rear in under 10 minutes. Great job. Thank you.
Dude that is fantastic! You are awesome. These videos really build my confidence in owning a 911.
another great video, keep up the good work.
Great job. You just help me build self confidence.
Hugely informative video Bro'!! Thanks much!!
Great video
Great video, Thanks.
Thanks, excellent tutorial.
Thanks for watching. Hope you're subscribed!
Great explanation, can you also make a video how to adjust the handbrake / pads on the 997 ?
Thanks so much for the great videos. Porsche recommends new caliper bolts anytime theyre removed. The wheel uprights are aluminum and can mar when debris causes cross threading and the. Youre hosed. An alternative to those who track and swap pads and rotors frequently is to convert to studs.
That's a good tip. I guess people can take precautions when re-using the bolts by inspecting and cleaning them off before reinstalling. Thanks for watching!
Nicely done, thank you for sharing. Quick question, I noticed your calipers are nice and clean...what method have you found best to clean them?
Thanks
good 👌
if u are the owner of Pontiac Aztek or LADA Kalina, just imagine that you are working on 911! and it will be exciting...
So why did you add anti seize to the back of the rear pads but not the front pads? Aren’t the rear dampers supposed to stick to the pads too like the fronts do?
Does this procedure carry over to the 911 997.1? Great helpful video by the way.
Yup. It should be very similar if not identical
Nice work, but the tip of the Porsche wheel emblem should be pointing towards the valve stem. It’s a tradition.
One that I don't care about ha, but to each their own. Thanks for watching.
@@CarFanatic What a dipsheet response...
@@jameybreakstone lol, I think it's funny such words can hurt your feelings
I would flush out the old brake fluid regardless of how clean the it looks. It's so cheap that in my mind, it's a must do.
Have you noticed a significant reduction in brake dust? I have been looking at the Carbotech 1521's because they claim 80% less brake dust and that is what I am trying to get rid of on both my 997 and Cayenne Diesel.
Brake dust is indeed better! Also the ceramic dust isn't corrosive like metal brake dust.
@@CarFanatic Thanks, I see you removed the TRW's from your Cayenne and went back to traditionals due to noise. Are you not having the same issue on the 911? Thanks, Curt
@@Fulloctanegarage nope. The brake pads on the Cayenne were either defective or the wrong size.
Great video, do you have any video related to changing out the rear brake shoe? Thanks.
On the 997? I don't but given they shouldn't need to be changed often.
@@CarFanatic Thanks for the reply. It's for 997.2. Kinda need some afford to have the hand brake to hold. Any suggestion?
Could you tell what is the long rod that you screwed in one of the bolt hole to hold the wheel while you take it off an on? Thank you from Québec, Canada
That is the wheel guide bolt. There should be a link in the description to it I think.
Is this the same on the 997.2 turbo without center lock or pccb?
I wonder if I can have your advice on upgrading the stock brakes on my Carrera 991.2 , to 991.2 Carrera S ones, or not? I of course mean, the rotors, calipers, pads, ...etc.
I’m also looking for OEM glossy carbon fiber Sport Exhaust pipe tips, front spoiler lip, side mirrors caps, and all the factory fitted plastic bits and pieces. If you happen to know a trustworthy supplier selling these approved items, I would appreciate it very much!
Don't think you need the upgraded brakes. Stock brakes should be more than adequate for light track work. As for the other stuff, you could look into fabspeed for the exhaust tips. Not sure on the front splitter.
Hi where are you located I need my pads changed on my Macan?
Hello Car Fanatic,
I'm replacing my front Textar brake pads with TRW ceramic pads on my 997 S. Can you share your experience with the TRW ceramic pads after the install in reference to pad performance? Do you feel it has better stopping power compared to OEM pads? How is the preference with spirited driving?
I have not autocrosses with the new brake pads yet but they feel just as good as the oe pads but just dust a whole lot less. I highly recommend them for street use. If you want a performance pad, you'll have to go with a semi metallic pad, which will dust more. Hope this helps. There's also a link in my description to the parts in case you need the part numbers. Be careful if relying on Amazon's vehicle filter. It will say a part fits but you have to read the details to understand if it fits your particular trim. Cheers!
@@CarFanatic Thank you for your reply. Currently, I'm only using the car for street use and not autocross or track so I think I will be fine. I will keep you posted on my experience with them for street use compared to the original ATE pads as well as the Textra pads that replaced the ATE's. Just FYI, the link for the TRW pads in your video fits perfectly on my 997.1 S.
You did slide the brake pads inside the caliper without first applying glue on the brake pad damper. Why does the factory connect the brake pad and pad damper together with glue?
What size wheel spacers are you using form ECS Tuning in the front and rear?
8mm front, 10mm rear
@@CarFanatic thank you. I'm thinking of going 10m front and 15m for rear
Curious to know why you didn't use transfer tape to re-adhere the damper to the pad??
I have used it in the past. Not sure why I didn't but there aren't any issues.
Shouldn't the drilled holes orientation be facing (the other way) downward toward the front so that the rotor will act as fan pulling air in via the center channel and disperse side ways through the holes to cool off the rotor?
The rotors are sold by front/rear and left/right. I installed them based on the side each rotor was made for. So, I think I installed them correctly. Good question though. Thanks for watching and hope you are subscribed!
@@CarFanatic Yep. Left/right could be easily swapped to get whichever orientation. It'll work either way but being an engineer, I think they should be installed in the same orientation as they are intended from the factory so that the airflow will cool off the rotor efficiently per design. This could be easily checked at Porsche dealership. Many thanks for making/posting the video - it's very helpful!
Your rotors were on correctly. most are marked L/R.
Exactly what do these shims do they have adhesive on them,,
It keeps the brakes from squealing. The adhesive helps absorb vibration, which can cause squealing.
How are the shims going to stick to the pads if you put the lube on them?
The lube only goes around the edges of the pads, not the backings. So the shims will just stick to the back of the brake pads.
Whay are Porsche 911 rotors so much smaller than their competitors' (like BMW M series, any model)? Seems like on the 911 models, only the GT and the Turbo models have large rotors, while all the other models have much smaller diameter rotors which get dwarfed by the large diameter wheels.
The rotors are pretty big, but the car doesn't weigh that much so you don't need gigantic rotors like you would on a heavier car. Trust me, the standard brakes are more than good enough. Porsche knows what they are doing.
What did you do when you broke the 10 mm bolt?
Why do you use drilled rotors?
That's what comes standard on the car. It's to improve cooling.
@@CarFanatic Vanes are for cooling, Slots and drilled holes are for gas expansion escape, so you don'l float your pads under hard braking.
Am I the only one that lightly sands the rotors and chamfers the pads?