There is straight up no possible way I would have ever been able to figure this out on my own. Single most epic tutorial I have ever watched on YT. Thank you SO much, fantastic work!
Thank you for taking the time to explain each step and option! After watching this video, I've gone from feeling hopelessly overwhelmed to being absolutely confident that I can design professional looking control panels for my projects! (I found your video while researching the cost of custom laser-cut panels or vinyl stickers etc, and I'm floored at how affordable PCBs are)
Thanks for taking your time and knowledge to put this together. I will have to generate a punch list for this process and watch it again, I don't want to miss a bounce from one software to another, to find out on delivery, Opps. Thanks Again!!!
Great vide Dave. Really appreciate you highlighting all the gotchas in the software -- looks like you probably went through quite a steep learning experience, so thanks for sharing your tips with us.
This is the best tutorial I have seen showing the full steps clearly and in depth. This has took the project from a Mess DIY Project to something you can be proud to say you have made. Now I can say this is something I want to do and be proud off. I have Subscribed and Liked this video Thank you so much.
I always appreciate the details on the process and software that you do in your videos. I can't wait to give it a whirl. Seems like with this method you could add large pads without solder mask and build a capacitive touch type keyboard right onto the faceplate perhaps. Maybe I'll have to give that a try as well. Thanks for the tutorial!
This has been so awesome video. I've been referring to it countless of times learning to use there three programs. Probably half of the views are from me :D I could give some feedback how ever: Since the video is rather long and has lot of content, it would be great if there was time stamp links in the description. I also noticed that we're probably running different revisions of the programs. On my KiCad 5.1.5 -3 the graphics should not be inverted for instance and many buttons/functions had changed name, place or different in some other way, but still recognizable enough. Thanks again for one on my favorite tutorial videos!
For the TS-1 the reverse of the panel could be used for the connections to the pots, switches and mux chip, etc. so that a separate PCB is not required. The Teensy could be double-sided taped with just a few wires to the board
If you have a lot of components, you could populate the back of the front panel with SMD components where practical, and use the PCB behind it for all the through-hole stuff. Downward-facing surface-mounted LEDs could make the use of light pipes unnecessary. Less flex in a sandwiched construction like this, so less stress on the solder joints as well.
amazing , i was looking for weeks to figure out how to make front panel for good price and here it is ! best video of the year for me ! thanks a million.
Absolutely mint face plates and a supremely comprehensive tutorial but I have to wonder why the process is so convoluted as face plates have been around as long as the stuff behind the face plate.
Brilliant video and a great idea. Just one thought to take it further... if you wanted the corner hole screws to be completely concealed you could put an exposed copper circle on the bottom layer and solder a M3 nut on and insert M3 bolt from the bottom. This would mean drilling the hole in the case big enough to recess the nut and probably a spacer and/or washer for the bolt. I guess it depends on the case thickness and access from the back. Just an idea... might give that a go myself.
Thanks Dave. I currently have three finished designs I made from scratch and didn’t want to spend the overhead of aluminum faceplates. This should be a worthwhile option. Especially if the fan does 2oz copper.
I did it. I really did it. I designed a switch plate for a cessna plane which contains 4 rectangular rocker switches and 7 toggle switches. My big problem was to add a rectangular cutout in the panel for the rockers. However, ingenuity prevailed. The cutout had to be 29.3 x 12.3 mm but, in the footprint editor, there was no such thing so, I designed my own footprint. The problem is that JLCPCB doesn't (as far as I know) have square cutouts so, my footprint included 12 plated slots 22mm by 1mm wide stacked next to each other and JLCPCB was able to route each slot and the switches fit like a charm. Again, thanks for showing me the way to use KiCad and building face plates and , they turned out better than my 3D printer version.
Good idea and I'd reckon a lot cheaper than getting some Western firm to custom print it directly onto a box. I have a project I'm designing in one of those extruded aluminium cases with plates screwed to each end. You could fix it to the case like that and it would be perfect.
When Dave shows the completed board at around 1:21:00, you can see that the mounting holes have a very small copper pad around them. Is this using the settings he outlined earlier in the video (1:05:36), or did he use a very small pad setting in the final design? I'd like to have copper-lined holes without pads at all.
I experimented with this myself. You can set a mounting hole with no pad, resulting in just a copper-coated hole. There are some changes in the step-by-step to get this to work, thanks to upgrades to Fusion, Inkscape and KiCad. Otherwise, Dave's instructions helped me create some very professional-looking faceplates for my headphone amplifier.
How did I miss this video? Thanks! Wanted to fix a PCB to my Brunswick synth for a while now. But I never had the time to sit down and read thru everything
I want to do the same for my Brunswick. However, i just ran the numbers for JCLPCB and the large size fee and shipping would be almost $120 for 5 boards. I may do this and sell the leftovers.
Hi Periquita. If you have no KiCad libraries you may need to install them manually. If you are just missing the Mounting Hole library, you can install that separately. Check out this link: www.kicad.org/libraries/download/
I know this video is old so maybe I won't get a reply from anyone, but I have a question. Can't Fusion 360 do what Kicad does or is it just for fabrication? Kicad can't do the fabrication or just not very well? Thanks!
Very nice video 👍 🖖 But it ther a method to do this easyer? 🤔 And is it possible to gold plate the copper holes from the factory, and make the silk screen text slso in gold plating? Thank you very much for the helpful video. ☺️
Hi pi-duino. I have a few for sale. Contact me via email on my website or better yet - on my discord server if you're interested. Links in the video info.
I just made a panel like this and I didn't want any mounting holes either, because the nuts on all the controls themselves will hold the panel down. I didn't put in any schematic, mounting holes, or "fake" devices to make KiCAD happy. You can still do the "Add Fill Zones" trick he does by dragging a box around your whole PCB layout and when you need to assign it to a net, just choose the one and only "" which says it will make "an unconnected island of copper". That ends up making just one big fill zone of copper that covers the whole side of the board, which is exactly what you want.
Turning off the F.Fab layer de-clutters you work space massively! Just a tip :) Ow and another quickie, the ground copper pours can be waaaaay far away from your board outline. The manufacturer does not care how far away from the board edge it is. I find it easier to have them a bit further away, and also away from the back pour so it is easier to select them. But anyway, nice tutorial!
Just applied the process and submitted an order. Happy accident, my test project is very similar to the tutorial. More labor intensive (for me) than Front Panel Express, but cost effective and perfect for many projects. Thank you. (Perhaps 6 -8 hours total time to do the first project)
Got my boards (about 5 days after placing order) and they are great! Thank you. for the tutorial. You might have recommended this in the video: I found the solder mask scratched easily. With plenty of boards I found that a coat of clear Rustolium looks great and makes them more durable.
I'm starting finally get into KiCAD... can't wait to finally have some PCBs made, including face plates. I've always used pad-per-hole protoboard, etc for all of my old projects, and laminated paper-over-aluminum for face plates. Your tips are very helpful in both arenas, thanks as always. I have a full version of AutoCAD and 3dsMax, I wonder if those will work?
Oh, I just looked - can export PNG straight from AutoCAD! Piece of cake... steps 1 & 2 can be accomplished in one piece of software :) Thank's for the inspiration!!!
Excellent! And VERY helpful. I would NEVER have figured out about the transparent background problem with .png files. How did you realize that??? I have seen examples of just drawing directly in KiCAD's PCB tool to make control panels, but one is limited to only one font and the basic circle, arc, and line tools. Being able to draw in a vector program and export via a .png into the footprint library opens up the whole world! In fact, I even found that as long as you use a high resolution (like 2000 dpi), you can just directly use a drawing program (like GimP), write out the .png, import it into KiCAD, and it works well.
Note a caveat on my previous post about FUSION 360 Free version no longer supporting DXF outputs. It turns out their is an asterisk.DXF-(from sketch) so it may still work, which is great news. I need to do this, so fingers crossed!
It seems that the price increases very quickly if you change certain standard parameters, like board area. The example you showed was much smaller than the finished boards you showed. Is it possible to know how much your larger finished boards ended up costing you?
Thank you so much for all these details and taking the time to walk us through the whole process. Just one question: it seems possible to export dxf files with inkscape, so maybe is it possible to also do the edgecut layer with inkscape directly ? Thanks again !
There is one big issue with this, which is the position of silkscreen. Your board is square and you have this reference hole in the middle. I have rectangular one and have an issue that silkscreen positioning is not working like in your video becouse orgin for bitmap import is set automaticly and for non symetrical shape is somwhere so they not allign. Second issue I had is that actually in my version of Kicad "Negative" option created opposite result, also move exactly is not working like in your video, this option is under this "Position RelativeTo", but other than that great tutorial THX.
For even more precise actions, after import dfx, then use "RULER GUIDES" that leave cross hairs in middle of circle or alignment lines for matching left right / top bot. or not :)
Nice technique - thanks! I don't know if you mentioned somewhere in the video, or if AutoCad changed pricing structure since you posted this, but unfortunately as of the date of my comment at least, the free version of Fusion 360 doesn't support save-as or exporting .dxf files. :( FreeCad doesn't either, although supposedly some kind of conversion program exists. The problem is that AutoCad owns the .dxf format and doesn't license it easily - certainly not to the free software world Inkscape, FreeCad and KiCad (for schematics and boards) live in. If anyone knows a way around this, it'd be good to hear here. If I figure out one, I'll certainly post a follow up. -HP
If you get a scratch in one of these just get some black UV solder mask off ebay (which is exactly the same thing that is used to "paint" the PCB) and a UV flashlight. Apply to the scratch then wipe the excess off with a flat object such as a credit card, or for small areas a very small modeling trowel. This will take off the excess while leaving the scratch filled. Then shine the UV light on it for a few minutes till it's cured (recommend you don't look at it during tis process it's damaging to your eyes)
Hi Winston. I have a few for sale. Contact me via email on my website or better yet - on my discord server if you're interested. Links in the video info.
if i sent you my faceplate from my heath l.c. bridge 2240'''' could or would you remake it for me'''''''its starting to fade out'''thanks james''''oklahoma.... im very ''disabled'''but im a ''ham''
This is great but i feel like all the steps you take are unneccesary.. i probably would just use photoshop and pick mm as unit of measure and design the entire thing in one step.. then import to kicad.. all those hole and alignment things are easily accomplished and redundant.. just a perspective from a graphic designer engineer.. but great video and great idea
Nice video. You could do this with something like an arduboy clone. BTW the intro music irks me - the last chord of the song throws the whole sound out. Doesn't sound right. It also reminds me of the "my life in gaming" channel theme.
Terrifying. So much movement for this. Defenitely, you should learn as much as possible about other materials, other techniques to do same and even better things without turning on whole PCB factory
FUSION 360 is NO LONGER FREE. At least if you want to have the capability to get dxf formats like this tutorial calls for. Be prepared to spend 500 bucks a year. It is a great program though.
@@clintchron3001 Yes but it doesn't appear to support dxf format output. That's a real crippling limitation. If you want to just print to a 3d printer, that's not a problem.
There is straight up no possible way I would have ever been able to figure this out on my own. Single most epic tutorial I have ever watched on YT. Thank you SO much, fantastic work!
Thanks Justin!
You probably have no Idea of how helpful this is! thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for taking the time to explain each step and option! After watching this video, I've gone from feeling hopelessly overwhelmed to being absolutely confident that I can design professional looking control panels for my projects! (I found your video while researching the cost of custom laser-cut panels or vinyl stickers etc, and I'm floored at how affordable PCBs are)
That's great!
You explain things like I do. Thank you for that! I learned more in 15 minutes than hours watching other folks.
Very clever software.
Awesome, thank you!
Thanks for taking your time and knowledge to put this together. I will have to generate a punch list for this process and watch it again, I don't want to miss a bounce from one software to another, to find out on delivery, Opps. Thanks Again!!!
Very welcome!
Great vide Dave. Really appreciate you highlighting all the gotchas in the software -- looks like you probably went through quite a steep learning experience, so thanks for sharing your tips with us.
Thanks rogrevs! I banged my head against the desk for hours so hopefully you don't have to ;)
This is the best tutorial I have seen showing the full steps clearly and in depth. This has took the project from a Mess DIY Project to something you can be proud to say you have made. Now I can say this is something I want to do and be proud off. I have Subscribed and Liked this video Thank you so much.
Thanks so much 😊
Excellent tutorial, answering so many questions and solving annoying problems before we even know about them. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
This was such a creative idea. Never would have thought of doing this. Thanks for sharing this.
Thanks Arthur!
You are a very good teacher. You really went into every detail here. Thanks!
You're very welcome!
Such a great tutorial man, lots of details, I learned so much. Thank you very much.
You're very welcome!
Man, not only is This a great idea, the explanations were fabulous as well. I learned so many things from one video! Doesn’t happen often enough.
Thanks Tom!
I always appreciate the details on the process and software that you do in your videos. I can't wait to give it a whirl. Seems like with this method you could add large pads without solder mask and build a capacitive touch type keyboard right onto the faceplate perhaps. Maybe I'll have to give that a try as well. Thanks for the tutorial!
Thanks Analog! I've been looking into the touch pad thing as well. It should work.
MakeNoise do this exact thing with their Pressure Points eurorack module
This has been so awesome video. I've been referring to it countless of times learning to use there three programs. Probably half of the views are from me :D
I could give some feedback how ever: Since the video is rather long and has lot of content, it would be great if there was time stamp links in the description.
I also noticed that we're probably running different revisions of the programs. On my KiCad 5.1.5 -3 the graphics should not be inverted for instance and many buttons/functions had changed name, place or different in some other way, but still recognizable enough.
Thanks again for one on my favorite tutorial videos!
Thanks ReCyclop! I'll keep that in mind.
Damn, here I was on Muffwiggler going through loads of thread pages, and boom, all information I need in one video. So major thanks 👍
Glad you liked it :)
Great tut! You can press B to refill all the zones!
Good tip!
You can also change the color of the solder mask in the 3D viewer so it matches the board color you use in JLCPCB.
Thanks Karl. That's a good tip!
Thank You! This video is valuable to me because I design eurorack modules.
For the TS-1 the reverse of the panel could be used for the connections to the pots, switches and mux chip, etc. so that a separate PCB is not required. The Teensy could be double-sided taped with just a few wires to the board
If you have a lot of components, you could populate the back of the front panel with SMD components where practical, and use the PCB behind it for all the through-hole stuff. Downward-facing surface-mounted LEDs could make the use of light pipes unnecessary. Less flex in a sandwiched construction like this, so less stress on the solder joints as well.
amazing , i was looking for weeks to figure out how to make front panel for good price and here it is ! best video of the year for me ! thanks a million.
Dude love this board design. Any chance of a download your dials look brilliant on there. Doing my audio pre amp would be very useful. big thanks Dans
can't wait to build one, thanks for inspiration, regards from Poland
Thanks Bart!
Absolutely mint face plates and a supremely comprehensive tutorial but I have to wonder why the process is so convoluted as face plates have been around as long as the stuff behind the face plate.
Brilliant video and a great idea. Just one thought to take it further... if you wanted the corner hole screws to be completely concealed you could put an exposed copper circle on the bottom layer and solder a M3 nut on and insert M3 bolt from the bottom. This would mean drilling the hole in the case big enough to recess the nut and probably a spacer and/or washer for the bolt. I guess it depends on the case thickness and access from the back. Just an idea... might give that a go myself.
Thanks Dave. I currently have three finished designs I made from scratch and didn’t want to spend the overhead of aluminum faceplates. This should be a worthwhile option. Especially if the fan does 2oz copper.
That's awesome! Good luck with your project :)
Fantastic video . Just the inspiration I need to get my project to the next level. 🙂🙂🙂🙂
Thanks Adamski! That's awesome :)
Great video. You covered everything I needed! Thanks!!
You're welcome!
I did it. I really did it. I designed a switch plate for a cessna plane which contains 4 rectangular rocker switches and 7 toggle switches. My big problem was to add a rectangular cutout in the panel for the rockers. However, ingenuity prevailed. The cutout had to be 29.3 x 12.3 mm but, in the footprint editor, there was no such thing so, I designed my own footprint. The problem is that JLCPCB doesn't (as far as I know) have square cutouts so, my footprint included 12 plated slots 22mm by 1mm wide stacked next to each other and JLCPCB was able to route each slot and the switches fit like a charm.
Again, thanks for showing me the way to use KiCad and building face plates and , they turned out better than my 3D printer version.
That's great Phil! Nice work
Good idea and I'd reckon a lot cheaper than getting some Western firm to custom print it directly onto a box. I have a project I'm designing in one of those extruded aluminium cases with plates screwed to each end. You could fix it to the case like that and it would be perfect.
When Dave shows the completed board at around 1:21:00, you can see that the mounting holes have a very small copper pad around them. Is this using the settings he outlined earlier in the video (1:05:36), or did he use a very small pad setting in the final design? I'd like to have copper-lined holes without pads at all.
I experimented with this myself. You can set a mounting hole with no pad, resulting in just a copper-coated hole. There are some changes in the step-by-step to get this to work, thanks to upgrades to Fusion, Inkscape and KiCad. Otherwise, Dave's instructions helped me create some very professional-looking faceplates for my headphone amplifier.
How did I miss this video? Thanks! Wanted to fix a PCB to my Brunswick synth for a while now. But I never had the time to sit down and read thru everything
I want to do the same for my Brunswick. However, i just ran the numbers for JCLPCB and the large size fee and shipping would be almost $120 for 5 boards. I may do this and sell the leftovers.
your tutorials are perfect
Please I need help : I'm stuck at 39:06 can't find the footprint library, space at left is empty.
My KICAD is 6.
Hi Periquita. If you have no KiCad libraries you may need to install them manually. If you are just missing the Mounting Hole library, you can install that separately. Check out this link:
www.kicad.org/libraries/download/
Excellent ideas and you told us every possible obstacle, great tutorial, thx!
Amazing tuto, I can design some nice synth panels now !!
Go for it!
perfectly timed! was just mulling over getting a panel in pcb format done for my projects!
That's great Gunahlan!
Awesome tutorial! Thanks
Great idea!
However you don't even need Fusion360 for this. Inkscape can also save as DXF which works well for the outline of the board.
Thanks for the info!
I know this video is old so maybe I won't get a reply from anyone, but I have a question. Can't Fusion 360 do what Kicad does or is it just for fabrication? Kicad can't do the fabrication or just not very well? Thanks!
Very nice video 👍 🖖
But it ther a method to do this easyer? 🤔 And is it possible to gold plate the copper holes from the factory, and make the silk screen text slso in gold plating?
Thank you very much for the helpful video. ☺️
So I don't have to re-invent the wheel, how about the *Gerber* files for the *TS-1* of both boards.
Hi pi-duino. I have a few for sale. Contact me via email on my website or better yet - on my discord server if you're interested. Links in the video info.
Please, link to the Fusion 360 Free?
Excellent tutorial really useful.
Glad it was helpful!
What if I'm doing a faceplate for a guitar amp but don't want any drill mounting holes?
I just made a panel like this and I didn't want any mounting holes either, because the nuts on all the controls themselves will hold the panel down. I didn't put in any schematic, mounting holes, or "fake" devices to make KiCAD happy. You can still do the "Add Fill Zones" trick he does by dragging a box around your whole PCB layout and when you need to assign it to a net, just choose the one and only "" which says it will make "an unconnected island of copper". That ends up making just one big fill zone of copper that covers the whole side of the board, which is exactly what you want.
Turning off the F.Fab layer de-clutters you work space massively! Just a tip :) Ow and another quickie, the ground copper pours can be waaaaay far away from your board outline. The manufacturer does not care how far away from the board edge it is. I find it easier to have them a bit further away, and also away from the back pour so it is easier to select them. But anyway, nice tutorial!
Just applied the process and submitted an order. Happy accident, my test project is very similar to the tutorial. More labor intensive (for me) than Front Panel Express, but cost effective and perfect for many projects. Thank you. (Perhaps 6 -8 hours total time to do the first project)
Got my boards (about 5 days after placing order) and they are great! Thank you. for the tutorial. You might have recommended this in the video: I found the solder mask scratched easily. With plenty of boards I found that a coat of clear Rustolium looks great and makes them more durable.
I'm starting finally get into KiCAD... can't wait to finally have some PCBs made, including face plates.
I've always used pad-per-hole protoboard, etc for all of my old projects, and laminated paper-over-aluminum for face plates. Your tips are very helpful in both arenas, thanks as always.
I have a full version of AutoCAD and 3dsMax, I wonder if those will work?
Oh, I just looked - can export PNG straight from AutoCAD! Piece of cake... steps 1 & 2 can be accomplished in one piece of software :) Thank's for the inspiration!!!
Excellent! And VERY helpful. I would NEVER have figured out about the transparent background problem with .png files. How did you realize that??? I have seen examples of just drawing directly in KiCAD's PCB tool to make control panels, but one is limited to only one font and the basic circle, arc, and line tools.
Being able to draw in a vector program and export via a .png into the footprint library opens up the whole world! In fact, I even found that as long as you use a high resolution (like 2000 dpi), you can just directly use a drawing program (like GimP), write out the .png, import it into KiCAD, and it works well.
Thanks cowsongs! I tend to solve things by banging my head against the wall until it works. LoL
Wonderful video. Thank you very much for it.
Informative and some good tips along with a few gotchas to look out for.
Note a caveat on my previous post about FUSION 360 Free version no longer supporting DXF outputs. It turns out their is an asterisk.DXF-(from sketch)
so it may still work, which is great news. I need to do this, so fingers crossed!
It seems that the price increases very quickly if you change certain standard parameters, like board area. The example you showed was much smaller than the finished boards you showed. Is it possible to know how much your larger finished boards ended up costing you?
Thank you so much for all these details and taking the time to walk us through the whole process. Just one question: it seems possible to export dxf files with inkscape, so maybe is it possible to also do the edgecut layer with inkscape directly ? Thanks again !
How strong is this board compared to a similar thickness of aluminum?
(so with all the copper filled)
That means you get extra Faraday cage layer!
your graphics were perfect
Thanks :)
There is one big issue with this, which is the position of silkscreen. Your board is square and you have this reference hole in the middle. I have rectangular one and have an issue that silkscreen positioning is not working like in your video becouse orgin for bitmap import is set automaticly and for non symetrical shape is somwhere so they not allign. Second issue I had is that actually in my version of Kicad "Negative" option created opposite result, also move exactly is not working like in your video, this option is under this "Position RelativeTo", but other than that great tutorial THX.
For even more precise actions, after import dfx, then use "RULER GUIDES" that leave cross hairs in middle of circle or alignment lines for matching left right / top bot. or not :)
What is the name of the program, thank you
I use KiCad, Inkscape, and Fusion360
Nice technique - thanks! I don't know if you mentioned somewhere in the video, or if AutoCad changed pricing structure since you posted this, but unfortunately as of the date of my comment at least, the free version of Fusion 360 doesn't support save-as or exporting .dxf files. :( FreeCad doesn't either, although supposedly some kind of conversion program exists. The problem is that AutoCad owns the .dxf format and doesn't license it easily - certainly not to the free software world Inkscape, FreeCad and KiCad (for schematics and boards) live in. If anyone knows a way around this, it'd be good to hear here. If I figure out one, I'll certainly post a follow up. -HP
Check out the method I use at 19:54 to get the dxf file. Let me know if it still works.
@@NotesAndVolts Sorry, no it doesn't work an longer.
Sir. You are a genius :)
Thank you Patrick!
Thanks for this video!
Glad you liked it!
i thought software development was complicated and full of traps. thanks for pointing out all of the relevant quirks in the process :)
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you, great tutorial
Thanks Donnie!
Great tutorial, but you forget to mention another reason to left the copper on the pcb, shielding !!
Great point!
Love it, but struggling with the sound clarity tonight. Seems muffled, lacking treble. Maybe just me...
Sorry James. I had a noise problem with the audio so had to filter it out.
great! you did the tutorial! thanks a lot!
Thanks Autodafe! And thanks again for your support :)
@@NotesAndVolts wonderful tutorial with lots of valuable hints ;-)
Could have just used fusion 360 built in Eagle PCB software
If you get a scratch in one of these just get some black UV solder mask off ebay (which is exactly the same thing that is used to "paint" the PCB) and a UV flashlight. Apply to the scratch then wipe the excess off with a flat object such as a credit card, or for small areas a very small modeling trowel. This will take off the excess while leaving the scratch filled. Then shine the UV light on it for a few minutes till it's cured (recommend you don't look at it during tis process it's damaging to your eyes)
That's genius!
Thank you :)
Where can I buy the TS-1 PCB?
Hi Winston. I have a few for sale. Contact me via email on my website or better yet - on my discord server if you're interested. Links in the video info.
brilliant
great tutorial!
Thanks Brian!
Hey bro please make a drum machine for us with Arduino not a teensy
you should use freecad instead of fusion 360...
I like Freecad but have been using Fusion more these days.
if i sent you my faceplate from my heath l.c. bridge 2240'''' could or would you remake it for me'''''''its starting to fade out'''thanks james''''oklahoma.... im very ''disabled'''but im a ''ham''
This is great but i feel like all the steps you take are unneccesary.. i probably would just use photoshop and pick mm as unit of measure and design the entire thing in one step.. then import to kicad.. all those hole and alignment things are easily accomplished and redundant.. just a perspective from a graphic designer engineer.. but great video and great idea
Nice video. You could do this with something like an arduboy clone. BTW the intro music irks me - the last chord of the song throws the whole sound out. Doesn't sound right. It also reminds me of the "my life in gaming" channel theme.
Cool
The audio is bad bad today
Amazing video, but dude be a bit more environment friendly and pick lead free! It's just 1.10$ now, let's be conscious for the future!
I just import the pdf file into easyeda
Don't do this!!!! There's a inkscape plugin called svg to shenzhen. It outputs directly to Kicad's footprint format.
Terrifying. So much movement for this. Defenitely, you should learn as much as possible about other materials, other techniques to do same and even better things without turning on whole PCB factory
chatterbox!
FUSION 360 is NO LONGER FREE. At least if you want to have the capability to get dxf formats like this tutorial calls for. Be prepared to spend 500 bucks a year. It is a great program though.
Fusion 360 is still free for non-commericial uses. I just downloaded the installer and installed the app (5-7-2022).
@@clintchron3001 Yes but it doesn't appear to support dxf format output. That's a real crippling limitation. If you want to just print to a 3d printer, that's not a problem.
@@thedarksage328 You can export dxf files by right clicking on the sketch in the browser tree in Fusion 360. It does *not* require a paid account.